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CORNELL 

UNIVERSITY 

LIBRARY 


Cornell  University  Library 
DT  361.P48  1891 


New  light  on  dark  Africa: 


3   1924  028  752  750    .......i 


Cornell  University 
Library 


The  original  of  this  bool<  is  in 
the  Cornell  University  Library. 

There  are  no  known  copyright  restrictions  in 
the  United  States  on  the  use  of  the  text. 


http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924028752750 


NEW   LIGHT    ON    DAEK  AFRICA. 


DR.    CARL    PETERS. 


Di"  E  Altept  i  C9  lictogp 


New  Light  on  Dark  Africa: 


BEING  THE  NARRATIVE   OF 


TLbc  (Berman  jemin  jpasba  lEypeMtion, 


ITS  JOURNEYINGS  AND  ADVENTURES  AMONG   THE  NATIVE   TRIBES 

OF  EASTERN  EQUATORIAL  AFRICA,    THE   GALLAS,  MASSAIS, 

WASUKUMA,  ETC.,  ETC.^  ON  THE  LAKE  BARINGO 

AND   THE   VICTORIA  NYANZA. 


RELATED   BY 

DR.    CARL    PETERS, 

THE  COMMANDER  OF  THE  EXPEDITION. 


TRANSLATED    FROM    THE     GERMAN    BY 

H.  W.   DULCKEN,    Ph.D. 


WITH    THIRTY-TWO     PAGE     ENGRAVINGS    AND     SIXTY-FIVE    OTHER     ILLUSTRATIONS     FROM     DESIGNS     BY 

RUDOLF    HELLGREWE,    AND    A     LARGE     EXPLANATORY    COLOURED     MAP,    REPRESENTING 

THE     PROGRESS    OF    THE     EXPEDITION     FROM     DAY    TO     DAY. 


WARD,     LOCK,    AND     Co., 

LONDON,     NEW    YORK,     AND     MELBOURNE. 
1891. 

{All  Rights  Reserved.] 
5 


Printed  by  Hazell,  Watson,  &'  Finey,  Ld.,  London  and  Aylesbury. 


AUTHOR'S    PHEFACE. 


"TN  the  following  representation  of  the  German  Emin 
-L  Pasha  Expedition  I  have  to  give  as  clear  a  picture 
as  possible  of  the  outward  course  and  of  the  inward  con- 
nection of  the  German  enterprise  undertaken  for  the  purpose 
of  aiding  Emin  Pasha  to  maintain  his  position  on  the  Upper 
Nile.  The  narrative,  written  down  immediately  after  the 
conclusion  of  the  expedition,  is  based  upon  our  memoranda 
and  upon  reports  received  on  the  spot,  and  may  accordingly 
also  in  its  subjective  sense  claim  to  possess  the  value  of 
truthful  instantaneous  photographic  representations.  Upon 
the  correctness  of  the  views  expressed  on  separate  points 
there  will  be  disputes ;  but  I  shall  consider  my  task  in  the 
following  book  as  fulfilled  if,  allowing  for  this  diversity  of 
opinion,  I  have  succeeded  in  enabling  the  reader  to  form  an 
accurate  and  a  clear  conception  of  the  external  and  the  in- 
ward course  of  the  German  Emin  Pasha  Expedition. 

Such  being  my  endeavour,  I  am  scarcely  called  upon  to 
offer  an  apology  for  beginning  the  narrative  of  the  undertaking 
with  the  enterprise  itself,  instead  of  giving  a  detailed  prelimi- 
nary history,  reaching  back,  if  possible,  to  the  times  of  the 
Pharaohs.  I  take  it  for  granted  that  the  reader  of  this  book, 
when  he  takes  it  into  his  hand,  just  wants  to  know  what 
was  the  course  of  our  expedition,  and  will  be  glad  to  dispense 
with  details  which  he  will  find  in  a  better  and  more  connected 


vi  AUTHOR'S  PREFACE. 

form  in  other  books,  and  which  are  not  at  all  necessary  for 
the  comprehension  of  the  following  narrative. 

Now  that  I  am  giving  to  the  public  this  history  of  the 
German  Emin  Pasha  Expedition,  I  am  obeying  an  impulse 
of  my  heart  in  once  more  expressing  my  thanks  to  those 
to  whose  co-operation  it  must  be  attributed  that  the  under- 
taking ended  in  the  manner  described  in  the  following 
pages,  and  that  it  did  not  collapse  at  the  very  beginning, 
or  come  to  a  tragic  conclusion  on  the  continent  of  Africa, 
as  it  often  appeared  about  to  do.  In  this  place  I  publicly 
offer  my  thanks  to  the  men  who,  in  the  German  Emin 
Pasha  Committee,  backed  and  supported  the  undertaking 
at  home,  and  to  the  high-hearted  subscribers  who,  by  their 
liberal  and  ready  assistance,  enabled  our  expedition  to  be 
realised.  I  also  thank  my  comrades  in  the  expedition 
yonder,  among  whom  Herr  von  Tiedemann  was  my  constant 
and  faithful  companion,  while  Herr  Oskar  Borchert  proved,  by 
his  journey  up  the  Tana,  that  he  was  imbued  with  the  spirit 
which  alone  can  achieve  the  right  result  in  such  affairs. 

But  after  all,  even  with  such  support,  I  should  not 
have  been  in  a  position  to  write  a  description  of  the 
German  Emin  Pasha  Expedition  had  not  a  higher  Hand 
manifestly  led  us,  through  all  hindrances  and  dangers, 
back  to  our  native  land.  In  all  humility  we  have  to  offer 
thanks  to  Providence  that  it  has  been  vouchsafed  to  us 
to  return  home  in  safety  from  the  elevated  plateaus  of 
Leikipia  and  from  the  incalculable  entanglements  in  the 
countries  on  Lake  Victoria. 


CARL  PETERS. 


Essen,  "Auf  dem  Hugel," 
February  1st,  1891. 


PEEFACE  TO  THE  ENGLISH  EDITION. 


THE  book  here  offered  to  the  English  public,  in  a  form  which 
every  effort  has  been  made  to  render  an  attractive  one, 
has  already,  in  its  original  German  garb,  been  received  with 
emphatic  appreciation  and  general  approval  by  a  large  number 
of  readers.  Accordingly,  the  publishers  consider  themselves 
justified  in  looking  confidently  forward  to  an  equal  measure  of 
success  for  this,  the  English  edition  of  Dr.  Peters's  valuable 
and  interesting  work. 

The  question  of  the  opening  up  of  Dark  Africa,  with  its 
vast  prospects  for  trade,  commerce,  and  agriculture,  and  still 
more  important  capabilities  for  the  diffusion  of  Christianity  and 
the  spread  of  civilisation,  is  coming  more  and  more  to  the  front, 
and  occupies  a  continually  increasing  amount  of  public  atten- 
tion. The  natural  desire  for  information  on  this  great  and 
important  subject  has  been  increased  and  stimulated  by  the 
works  on  the  African  continent,  that  have  lately  appeared  from 
the  pens  of  eminent  travellers  and  explorers  ;  the  more  so,  per- 
haps, from  the  wide  divergences  in  the  views  and  the  methods 
of  action  advocated  by  the  various  authors. 

It  has  always  been  the  custom  in  England,  "  according  to 
the  fair  play  of  the  world,"  to  give  an  impartial  hearing  to  the 
different  statements  put  forward  by  those  whose  experience 
and  labours  entitle  them  to  speak  on  an  important  subject. 
Englishmen  like  to  know  what  each  man  has  to  say,  rather 
than  giA'e  their  unhesitating  adhesion  to  the  perhaps  dogmatic 
views  of  any  one  writer.  "  In  a  multitude  of  counsellors  there  is 
wisdom  ; " — -and  nowhere  more  than  on  the  question  of  carrying 


viii  PREFACE   TO   THE  ENGLISH  EDITION. 

forward  the  banner  of  culture  and  Christianity  into  regions  now 
desert,  but  where,  in  future  ages,  civilisation's  lofty  scenes  shall — 

"  Be  acted  over, 
In  states  unborn,  and  accents  yet  unknown." 

Among  those  writers  who  have  earned  an  incontrovertible 
right  to  be  listened  to  with  respect,  Dr.  Carl  Peters  undoubtedly 
stands  in  the  first  rank.  That  he  has,  in  the  fullest  sense  of  the 
term,  thrown  "  New  Light  "  upon  Dark  Africa,  no  unprejudiced 
and  impartial  reader  of  his  work  will  for  a  moment  be  disposed 
to  doubt.  Fearlessly,  and  with  a  transparent  honesty  of  inten- 
tion which  will  especially  commend  itself  to  English  sympathies, 
he  claims  for  his  country  a  share  in  the  great  work  of  the 
civilisation  of  Africa  ;  criticises  his  competitors  with  outspoken 
frankness,  without  withholding  from  them  his  meed  of  admira- 
tion ;  protests  boldly  where  he  considers  himself  hardly  dealt 
with ;  points  out  what  he  considers  to  have  been  errors  in  judg- 
ment and  action,  and  gives  his  reasons  in  every  case.  He  has 
the  courage  of  his  opinions,  and  his  trumpet  gives  no  uncertain 
sound ;  but  while  he  frankly  dispenses  praise  and  blame,  he  tells 
his  own  story  with  an  equally  plain  straightforwardness,  and  an 
absence  alike  of  self-laudation  and  self-depreciation  singularly 
graceful  in  a  man  who  has  passed  through  great  perils,  and 
achieved  very  remarkable  results,  with  very  moderate  means. 

Mr.  Stanley,  in  a  passage  in  his  "Darkest  Africa''  (Vol.  II., 
p.  406),  says:  "It  is  to  be  the  destiny  of  the  Germans  to  carry 
out  this  work  "  (the  civilisation  of  Ugogo),  "  and,"  he  adds,  "  I 
envy  them."  The  leader  of  the  enterprise  here  recorded  under- 
took it  in  this  spirit.  No  man  more  completely  dedicated  himself 
to  a  great  task,  or  carried  it  out  with  more  persistent  devotion 
and  daring  ;  and  in  every  page  the  reader  will  see  vindicated 
the  soundness  of  the  judgment  that  placed  Dr.  Carl  Peters  in 
authority  as  the  head  of  a  most  important  national  undertaking. 

Various  fallacies  dissipated,  a  fund  of  useful  information 
gained,  and  the  ground  prepared  for  future  work  and  progress  in 
Africa,  may  justly  be  chronicled  as  constituting  the  triumphant 
results  of  the  German  Emin  Pasha  Expedition. 

H.  W.  D. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  I. 

IN  GERMANY. 

PAGE 

First  Ideas  of  an  Expedition. — Stanley's  Departure  for  Africa. — Steps 
towards  a  German  Expedition. — Managing  Committee  Appointed. 
— Amountof  Money  Required. — Dr.  Peters  Appointed  Commander. 
— Arrangements  with  Lieutenant  Wissmann. — State  of  Eastern 
Africa. — Encouragement  from  Prince  Bismarck. — Proposed  Tana 
Route. — Rumours  concerning  Emin  Pasha. — Communication  from 
Count  Herbert  von  Bismarck. — The  Expedition  to  Start  under 
Dr.  Peters. —  Choosing  Officers. —  Doubts  and  Difficulties  in 
Prospect      ...........  1 — 18 

CHAPTER    II. 
IN  ZANZIBAR  AND  THE  BLOCKABED  TERRITORY. 

Insurrectionary  Districts  to  be  Avoided. — Supply  of  Soldiers  and 
Porters. — Shipping  Arms. — In  Aden. — Commencement  of  Diffi- 
culties.— Prohibitions  and  Restrictions. — Landing  at  Merka 
Abandoned. — Vexatious  Proceedings  and  Useless  EffiDrts  in  Zan- 
zibar.— Threats  of  the  Sultan. — The  Neoera  Chartered. — Confisca- 
tion of  Weapons. — Report  to  the  Committee. — By  Steamer  to 
Bagamoyo. — Departure  of  Herr  Bley. — Conference  with  Admiral 
Fremantle. — Authority  from  the  Committee. — Departure  for 
Dar-es-Salam. — The  Voyage. — Alarm  of  Eire. — Scarcity  of  Water. 
— Danger  of  Shipwreck. — Arrival  at  Kwaihu  Bay. — At  Pasa. — 
Embarkation  of  Recruits. — Proceedings  of  Admiral  Eremantle. — 
Ifavigation  in  Dhows. — Siyu  Canal. — Passage  to  Shimbye. — 
Arrival  in  Witu 19—45 

CHAPTER  III. 

IN  THE  SULTANATE  OF  WITU. 

Success  of  the  Commander's  Plan. — Delay  and  Doings  at  Shimbye.— 
Report  to  Germany. — Visit  to  Wanga. — Exaggerated  Reports. — 
A  Hurried  Departure. — H.B.M.S.  Boadicea  and  the  Blockade. — 


X  COXTKXTS. 

PAGE 

Landing  of  the  Expedition  at  Mgine. — Eendezvous  at  Hindi. — 
The  ^^eoera  Brought  to  Book.—"  Where  is  Dr.  Peters  ?  "—Diplo- 
matic Correspondence  with  Admiral  Fremantle. — Letter  Received 
from  Herr  Borchert. — The  Neoera  Seized  and  Taken  to  Zanzibar. 
— The  Consequent  "  Nemra  Lawsuit." — Difficulty  of  Procuring 
Porters. — Division  of  the  Expedition. — Porterage. — Disciplining 
the  Company.  —  Manners  of  the  Natives.  —  Character  of  the 
Somalis. — Troubles  of  the  Rainy  Season. — The  Start  from  Hindi. 
— Unruliness  of  the  Porters. — Missing  Loads  and  Deserting 
Bearers. — New  E,ecruits. — System  of  Rewards  and  Punishments, 
Rules,  etc. — Camp  at  Mansamarabu.— Our  March  to  Witu. — The 
Scenery,  etc. — Swamp  and  Forest. — The  Plain. — Sultan  Fumo 
Bukari. — Statistics  of  Witu. — Grand  Reception. — Report  to  the 
Committee. —  Negotiations.- —  The  Somalis. —  Sheriff  Hussein. — 
Preparations  for  Departure. — Prosperous  Condition  of  the  Column. 
— Departure  for  Engatana        .         .         .         .         .         .  46 — 76 

CHAPTER  IV. 

VP  THE   TAXA    TO    THE    GALLAS. 

The  First  Day's  March. — Encampment  in  the  Valley. — Buana  Shamo 
Promises  a  Guide. — Poetry  of  Camp  Life. — Start  for  Ngao. — 
Aspect  of  the  Country. — Search  for  Water. — Camping  in  the 
Wapokomo  Quarters. — AiTival  at  the  Tana. — German  Missionary 
Station  at  Ngao. — Scarcity  of  Food. — Discontent  in  the  Column. 
— Ants  and  Mosquitoes. — "  Shauri  "  with  the  Porters. — Deser- 
tions. —  The  Missionary  Wiirz. — Departure  from  Ngao. — The 
Boats  at  Marfano. — Disappointment  and  Discouragement. — The 
Monsoon. — Dr.  Peters's  Illness. — His  Letter  to  his  Friend  Hof- 
mann. — ^On  the  Banks  of  the  Tana.- — Supplies  from  Witu. — 
Untrustworthy  Somali  Messengers. — Rumours  of  the  English 
Expedition. —  Hussein's  Diplomatic  Proposal. —  Smith's  English 
Expedition. — Camp  at  Engatana. — Hamiri's  Failure. — Missionary 
Heddenstrom. — Dangers  at  Mitole. — Parting  from  the  Wapokomo. 
—Scenery  of  the  Tana. — The  Steppe.— Animal  Life.— Climate. 
— A  Cheerful  March.  —  Complaints  of  the  Elders.  —  Hamiri's 
Eloquence. —  Hiring  Boatmen.— Foreign  Hostility.  —  Departure 
by  Boats  from  Muina.— Good  News.— Supplies. — Passage  of  the 
Tana.— Arab  Treachery. — Nderani. — Miaus. — Characteristics  of 
the  Wapokomo. — Interview  with  the  Sultan  Suakini.— German 
Flag  at  Malalulu.—Massa.— Wapokomo  Festival. — The  Galla 
Regions. — Kidori. — Nature  of  the  Mboni. — Hamiri  and  Pembo 
moto.— Traces  of  the  EngHsh  Expedition.— Sources  of  the  Tana. 
^Scarcity.— Triumphal  March  to  Oda-Boru-Ruva      .  77-123 


CONTENTS.  xi 

CHAPTER  V. 
WITH  THE   GALLAS  IN  ODA-BORU-EUVA. 

Scouts  Sent  Across  the  Eiver. — On  the  Tana. — Sultan  of  Gallas.— The 
Gallas.— The  Wapokomo. — The  Suaheli  of  the  Tana.— Character- 
istics of  the  Gallas. — Negotiations  with  the  Sultan. — Waiting  for 
the  Second  Column. — Sultan  Hugo's  Concessions. — Mr.  Pigott's 
Expedition.— Mr.  Smith's  Expedition.— Consultation  with  Sultan 
Hugo.  —  Explanation  on  Both  Sides.  —  Treaty  Between  the 
Sultan  and  Dr.  Peters. — Illness  of  Herr  von  Tiedemann. — Sojourn 
Among  the  Gallas.— Von  der  Heydt  House.— Bad  Conduct  of  the 
Gallas. — Alarming  Reports. — Defeat  of  the  Gallas. — Hostages. — 
Grain  Stores  Seized. — Hostile  Somali.— Gall-Galla's  Cunning. — 
Sultan  Gallo.  —  His  Deposition.  —  Sadeh  made  Sultan. —The 
Treaty. — Waiting  for  Bust's  Column. — Difficulties. — Instructions 
to  Lieutenant- Captain  Rust. — Proposed  Route  of  Dr.  Peters. — 
Discretion  Allowed. — Decision  to  Cross  the  Steppe     .         .         .124-151 

CHAPTER  VI. 
OR  THE    UPPER  TANA   TO  KIKUYU. 

Exceptional  Character  of  the  Expedition. — Delays  of  the  Gallas. — 
Grain  Wanted. — Stragglers. — Galamba. — The  Women  and  Chil- 
dren to  be  sent  Back. — The  Fugitives  on  the  River. — Yembamba's 
Doleful  Narrative. — Course  of  the  Tana. — Its  Islands. — Tana 
Settlements. — Glorious  Hameje. — The  Lion's  Visit. — Cataracts  of 
the  Tana. — Hofmann  Falls. — Branches. — Tiedemann's  Hill. — 
Emperor  William  II.  Mountains. — Boat  Voyage. — Kiapf's  Con- 
jectures Concerning  the  Tana. — Great  Volcanic  Elevated  Plateau. 
— Jibije  and  Mountain  Range. — The  Wandorobbo  Tribe. — Pro- 
jected Route. — Embassy  to  the  Wandorobbo. — Tokens  of  Ap- 
proaching Strife. — Insolent  Demands.  —  Negotiations. — A  Bad 
Bargain. — Order  of  March. — Nogola's  Misbehaviour  and  Punish- 
ment. —  Attack  with  Poisoned  Arrows.  —  Explorations  on  the 
Tana. — A  Dangerous  Position  and  Timely  Rescue. — Somalis  and 
"  Strayed  "  Cattle. — The  Tana  :  Question  of  Fords. — Barakka's 
Accident. — The  Forest  and  its  Animals. — The  Kiloluma  Fall. — 
Wakamba. — The  Wadsagga  and  their  Country. — Krupp's  Moun- 
tain.— Marongo  and  his  Demands. — War  with  the  Wadsagga. — 
Their  Punishment. — Tree  Warriors. — Difficulties  of  the  Mountain 
March. — Excited  Somalis. — A  Resolute  Policy  maintained. — Herr 
von  Tiedemann's  Position. — How  to  Cross  the  Tana. — The  Raft 
and  the  Rope. — Building  the  Bridge. — Difficulties  and  Failure. — 


XI 1  CONTEXTS. 

PAGE 

The  Augusta  Victoria  Fall. — Hunting  Incidents,  etc. — The  Carl 
Alexander  Cataract. — Schweinfvirth  Fall  and  Krapf  Hill. — 
Steppe  of  Ukumba  Kitui. — Passage  of  the  Dika. — The  Tana  Con- 
quered.— The  Kenia  Mountain.  —  The  Friendly  Wakikuyu.  — 
Passage  of  the  Marawa. — Solemn  Entry  into  Konse  .         .  152 — 212 

CHAPTER  VII, 

THROUGH  THE  MASSAIS,   OVER  THE  LEIEIPIA  PLATEAU  TO 
THE  BARINGO  LAKE. 

Stay  at  Kikuyu. — The  Thievish  Wakikuyu. — March  through  the 
Kikuyu  Country. — Treacherous  Customs  of  the  Country. — Region 
of  the  Guaso  Nyiro. — Mountain  Region.^ — The  Leikipia  Plateau. 
— The  Kenia  Peak. — Guaso  Nyiro  River. — Question  of  Water 
Supply. — The  Gretchen-Thal. — Plan  of  the  Expedition. — The 
Massais  and  their  Characteristics. — Nomadic  Herdsmen. — Their 
Warlike  Propensities. — The  Elmord,n,  or  Warrior  Massais. — Their 
Equipment,  Customs,  etc. — The  Gnare  Gobit. — Meeting  with 
Massai  Warriors. — The  Chief  Kradl  of  Elbejet. — Rukua,  our  In- 
terpreter.— Insolence  of  the  Natives. — Hostile  Demonstrations. — 
Attack  on  Elbejet. — Attack  by  the  Elmoran. — Battle  with  the 
Massais. — Burning  of  Elbejet. — Orders  for  an  Advance. — Rout 
of  the  Massais.  —  Precautions  against  Surprise.  —  Opportune 
Eclipse. — A  Disturbed  Christmas  Eve. — The  March  Resumed. — 
Peace  Proposals  and  Treaty. — The  Dongo  Gelesha  Range. — Teleki 
Rock. — Hostile  Massais. — Joyful  Meeting  with  Herr  von  Tiede- 
mann. — Difficult  March. — The  Guaso  Narok. — ^Thomson's  Route. 
— Desertion  of  Porters. — -Water  Found. — ^A  New  Year. — Talk 
with  the  Wandorobbo. — The  Guaso  Tien  River. — Lake  Baringo 
and  its  Surroundings. — Crossing  the  Guaso  na  Nyuki. — Arrival 
at  Njemps 213—269 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

FROM  THE  BARINGO  TO  THE   VICTORIA  NY  AN Z A  TERRITORY. 

Ways  and  Means. — Herr  von  Tiedemann's  Illness. — Massai  Agri- 
culture.— The  Wakuafi,  or  Dealers. — ^Report  to  the  Committee. — 
Communication  with  Oda-Boru-Ruva. — Treaty  with  the  Wa- 
kuafi.— Mr.  de  Winton's  and  Other  Expeditions. — Arrangements 
for  our  Advance  towards  the  West.— The  Kamasia  Plateau. — 
Pemba  Motu  and  the  Wakamasia. — Land  of  Elgejo. — Demonstra- 
tions of  the  Natives. — Conversation  with  Arabs. — Report  on 
Kawirondo.— Candle  Manufacture.— Death  of  the  Somali  Achmed. 


CONTENTS.  xiii 

—People  of  Elgejc— Xirobani,  the  Guide.— A  Carnivorous  Camel. 
— Elgejo  Guides. — Fight  with  the  Waelgeio.— Easy  Victory.— 
March  to  the  Angata  na  Nyuki. — Grand  Solitude  of  Nature.— 
Violent  Tropical  Thunderstorms. — ^A  Dream  and  an  Imaginary 
Conversation.— Wild  Cattle.— Route  to  Kabaras.— News  of  White 
Men. — A  Letter  to  a  Possible  European. — The  Kawirondo  People. 
—Mr.  Thomson's  Opinions.— A  Land  of   Plenty.— Conversation 

with  the  Sultan's  Messengers. — The  Sakwa's  Possessions. Town 

of   Sakwa. — Porters  from  English  Expedition. — Arrival  of  All 

Somal. — Accounts   of    Emin   Pasha. — Bewildering    News. The 

Sultan's  Proposal. — Report  on  the  Wasoga  and  Waganda. — 
Sakwa's  Politeness. — Triumph  over  the  Mangati. — Treaty  with 
Sultan  Sakwa. — Explanatory  Letter. — Advance  to  Kwa  Sundu. 

270—311 

CHAPTER  IX. 

ADVANCE    UPON    UNJORO   AND   DEVIATION  TO    UGANDA,  TO 
ASSIST  THE   CHRISTIAN  PARTY. 

Visit  from  the  Sultan  and  Chiefs. — Mr.  Mackay's  Despatch. — Muanga, 
Son  of  Mtesa. — His  Rebellion  against  Karema,  King  of  Uganda. 
— Mr.  Stokes's  Enterprise. — Expected  British  East  African  Ex- 
pedition.— Proposal  to  Emin  Pasha. — Political  Missionary  Inter- 
ference.— Mr.  Jackson's  Proceedings. — Letter  of  Pere  Lourdel. — 
Conversation  with  the  Wasoga  Men. — Kiswahili  and  Kisogo 
Languages. — The  Sultan's  Information  respecting  Unjoro. — 
Guides  Required  for  Journey  to  Kwa  Telessa. — ^Ali  Somal's  Dis- 
suasions.— Hussein's  Report. — Dr.  Peters's  Speech  to  the  Somalis. 
— Result  of  the  Conference,  or  Shauri. — Crossing  the  River 
Nsoia. — The  Country  of  Kwa  Tindi. — Messenger  from  Sultan 
Tindi. — Attack  on  the  Kraal  by  Robbers. — Particulars  Concern- 
ing the  Country. — March  through  the  "  Junker  Range." — To 
Kwa  Tunga  and  Kwa  Telessa. — ^White  Men  in  Wanjoro. — Con- 
jectures Concerning  Emin. — Dr.  Peters's  Letter. — The  Wissmann 
HUls. — A  Mysterious  Visitor. — Marco  and  Talabanga. — Proposal 
to  Visit  Unjoro. — Stanley's  Camp. — Stanley's  Refusal  to  go  to 
Uganda. — Letter  to  Monseigneur  Livinhac. — Offer  to  Muanga.— 
Life  in  Usoga. — Particulars. — The  Napoleon  Gulf. — The  Banana. 
— The  Wasoga. — The  Sultans  and  their  Power. — The  Wachore  and 
their  Jovial  Sultan. — His  Visit. — Kamanyiro  Kanta's  Career. — 
Return  Visit  to  Wachore. — Report  from  H.  M.  Stanley. — Up,  to 
Uganda  ! — Pleasant  Journey  towards  Usoga. — Kamanyiro's  One- 
eyed  Men. — Murder  of  Bishop  Hannington. — Welcome  from 
Christian  Waganda. — Passage  Across  the  NUe. — Ripon  Palls. — 
First  Encampment  iu  Uganda. — A  Dangerous  Enterprise       .  312 — 367 


XIV  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  X. 
IN  UGANDA. 

PAGE 

Fatal  Accident  to  Eukua. — -Letter  from  King  Muanga. — Declaration 
of  Kamanyiro  Kanta. — March  in  Military  State. — Dismissal  of 
Kamanyiro. — Letter  to  Mr.  Gordon  the  Missionary. — A  Gloomy 
March  Through  a  Desolate  Region. — Message  from  King  Muanga. 
Entry  into  Mengo,  the  Capital. — Audience  of  the  King, — Muanga's 
Friendliness. — Pfere  Lourdel's  Ideas. — Dr.  Peters's  Advice. — Visit 
of  the  Katikiro. — At  the  French  Mission. — Thoroughness  of  the 
Catholic    Mission     Stations.  —  Mechanical    Ingenuity.  —  King 
Muanga's   Palace. — Private  Interview  with  the    King. — Impor- 
tant Treaty  Proposed  and  Signed. — Trade  of  Uganda. — Extensive 
Traffic   with   Usukuma. — Objections   of  Gordon  and   Walker. — 
Freedom  of  Residence  for  White  Men. — Muanga's  Plain  Declara- 
tion.— Explanatory  Letter  to  Mons.   Lourdel. — Letter  to   Herr 
Arendt. — Letter  to  the  Englishmen  in  Kawirondo. — Monseigneur 
Livinhac. — The   Slave  Trade. — Prospects  of  the   Supremacy  of 
Christianity. — Monseigneur  Livinhac's  Opinion.^The  Waganda, 
their  Great  Abilities. — Their  Customs. — Music,  Architecture,  etc. 
— Their  Cruelty. — ^Advantages  of  Climate  and  Soil. — Origin  of  the 
Waganda. — The  Beyma   People.— Comparison   of   Languages. — 
Ancient  Records. — The  Mountains  of  the  Moon. — Ancient  Maps. 
Royal   Tombs   at  Mengo. — Arab  Account  of  Ancient  Egypt. — 
Gumr  and  El  Gumi. — Cave  Dwellings. — Thomson's  Account  of 
them. — Historic  Traditions  and  Unproved  Theories. — The  Kati- 
kiro, and  Difficulties  in  Uganda. — Mr.  Jackson's  Letter. — Dispute 
between   Muanga   and    the    Katikiro. — Muanga's    Message   to 
Europe. — Collecting    the    Forces. — Defiance    to    Karema. — Mr. 
Walker's  Yisit. — Gabriel's  Letter. — The  Land  of  Bulingogwe. — 
Brilliant  Expectations  ....  ...  368 438 

CHAPTER    XL 
ROUND    VICTORIA   NY  AN Z A    TO    USUKUMA. 

Mons.  Lourdel  in  Bulingogwe.— Particulars  of  Mr.  Stanley  and  Emin 

Pasha. — Sir  William  Mackinnon's  Plan. — Arrival  of  Nugula. 

Dilatory  Boatmen.— Mons.  Lourdel's  Energetic  Measure.— Its 
Fatal  Consequences.— View  on  Lake  Victoria.— The  Sesse  Islands. 
—Arrival  at  Mfoh.— Great  Thunderstorm.— Letter  from  the 
Katikiro,  and  Reply.— Sesse  Songs.— Starting  Afresh  for  Sesse. 
—The  French  Mission.— Meeting  with  Herr  von  Tiedemann.— The 


COXTENTS.  XV 

French  Station  Civilised  Life. — Mr.  Mackay  and  Monseigneur 
Livinhac. — Sunday  at  the  French  Station — ^Arrival  of  the  Boats. 
— Eesumption  of  the  Journey. — French  Missionary  Boats. — 
Interchange  of  News. — Flat  Shores  of  Lake  Victoria. — Village  of  ■ 
Boats. — Dumo. — Sango. — The  Eiver  Kagera. — Conference  with  -• 
the  Chiefs  in  Tabaliro. — Warning  to  the  Wasiba. — Their  Reply. 
— Letter  from  P6re  Lourdel. — Collection  of  Tribute. — Letter 
from  Monseigneur  Livinhac — Departure  from  Tabaliro. — Voyage 
Along  the  Coast  to  Busiba.— Island  of  Bukerebe. — The  Sultan's 
Submission. — Easter  Sunday. — Island  of  Bumbide. — Friendly 
Natives. — Towards  Soswa — Volcanic  Region  of  Lake  Victoria. 
— Soswa  Islands. — Arrival  of  Boats. — Encampment  in  Bande- 
lundo  and  Kuru. — Catholic  Mission  of  Nyagesi. — A  Banquet. — 
News  from  Europe. — Condition  of  Massailand. — Prospects  of 
Opening  up  Africa. — Means  to  be  Adopted. — Principles  of  Chris- 
tianity and  Freedom. — Idea  of  a  New  Expedition. — Results 
Already  Achieved. — A  Prosperous  Region. — Removal  to  Xlkumbi. 
—  Round  through  Usukuma.  —  Welcome  by  Monseigneur 
Hirth.   .         .  439—482 


CHAPTER    XII. 
FBOM  LAKE   VICTORIA   TOWARDS  HOME. 

The  Mission  Station  of  Nyagesi. — Its  Occupants. — Dry  Season  in 
Usukuma. — Good  Qualities  of  the  Wasukuma. — Flight  of  the 
Arabs. — Life  of  the  Expedition  in  Ukumbi. — Luxuries  of  Civili- 
c-ation. — Religious  Services. — Musa  Devoured  by  a  Crocodile. — 
Lion  Hunt. — "  Walpurgis  Night  "  Watch. — lUness  of  Dr.  Peters 
and  Herr  von  Tiedemann. — Departure  from  Ukumbi. — Probable 
Future  Importance  of  the  Wasukuma. — Encampment  at  Kabila. 
— The  Difficult  River. — Fording  the  Stream.- — The  Nera  Country. 
— ^Tactics  of  the  Wasekke. — The  African  Character. — Crossing 
the  Wami. — Mr.  Stokes's  Business  Activity. — Trade  in  Africa. — 
Caravan  Routes. — Opening  up  a  New  Road. — Settlement  of 
Busiba. — Keletesa's  Cordiality. — March  through  Thicket  and 
Scrub. — The  River  Sanguke. — Crossing  the  Wembaere. — Through 
the  Wilderness. — People  of  Iramba. — Sultan  Kilioma. — The 
Peaceable  Iramba  People. — ^Iramba  Plateau. — An  Unladylike 
Sultana. — Importance  of  Usure. — Illness,  Rest,  and  Travelling. — 
District  of  Uweri-weri. — In  Kabaragas. — District  of  Ugogo. — The 
Arab  Mohammed  Bin  Omari. — Achievements  of  the  Badutschi. — 
The  Kilima  Tindi  Ridge. — ^The  Wagogo  People. — Makenge  and 
Mr.  Stanley. — Lesson  to  the  Wagogo. — Demand  for  Tribute. — 
War  with  the  Wagogo. — Burning  of  Wagogo  Villages. — Arrival 


cox  TEXTS. 


PAGE 


of  the  Wanjamwesi. — Wagogo  Cattle  Seized. — ilakenge's  Sub- 
mission. —  Wanjamwesi  Caravan.  —  Mohammed  Bin  Omari's 
Caravan. — Circuit  Round  the  Lindi  Mountains. — A  Caravan 
under  the  German  FJag. — Tidings  of  Emin  Pasha. — Kwam 
Yagallo. — The  Marenga  Mkali  Country. — To  Mpuapua. — Meeting 
with  Emin  Pasha. — Consultations  with  Emin. — Criticism  of 
Stanley's  Proceedings. — Emin's  Position  on  the  Upper  Nile. — 
Discrepancy  between  Accounts. — Emin's  Estimate  of  Stanley. — 
Character  of  Emin  Pasha. — Parting  from  Emin. — Arrival  at 
Usagara. — The  Arabs  of  Mkondogna. — Stay  at  Loanga. — March 
to  Bagamoyo. — News  from  Europe. — Crossing  to  Zanzibar. — To 
Italy  and  Germany. — A  Few  Words  with  Admiral  Fremantle   483 — 560 


APPENDIX. 

Supplement      I. — The  German  Emin  Pasha  Committee       .         .  561 

Supplement    II. — Relations  with  Admiral  Fremantle  and  the  British 

Blockade .566 

Supplement  III. — The  jVeoera  Lawsuit  ......  574 

Supplement   IV. — The  Fate  of  the  Second  Column      ....   578 

Supplement     V. — The  Uganda  Treaty  ......  585 


LIST    OF    FULL-PAGE    ILLUSTRATIONS. 


Portrait  of  Dr.  Carl  Peters 

Attempt  to  Land  at  Merka 

Transfer  of  the  Necera's  Freight  to  the  Dhows 

Camp  in  Mansamarabu    . 

Reception  of  the  Somali-Kawallala 

View  on  the  Tana 

On  the  March       .... 

Flotilla  of  the  Expedition  on  the  Tana 

Fight  with  the  Gallas      . 

The  Hofmann  Falls 

View  on  the  Emperor  William  II.  Mountains 

Negotiation  with  the  Wandorobbo 

In  the  Mumoni  Mountains 

The  Augusta  Victoria  Falls 

The  Karl  Alexander  Falls 

The  Kenia 

Elmordn  Warriors  advancing  to  the  Attack 

Attack  on  Elbe  jet 

Attack  on  the  Masaais  at  Gnare  Gobit 

Christmas  Eve  at  Guaso  Nyiro 

The  Teleki  Rocks 

By  Lake  Baringo 

Encounter  with  the  Waelgejo 

In  Camp  before  Kabaras 

Passage  of  the  Nile 

Triumphal  Entry  into  Uganda 

Reception  by  Muanga 

On  Lake  Victoria 

"  How,  Dr.  Peters  ? — You  are  not  dead  ?  " 

Camp  in  Usukuma 

In  Usukuma 

The  Wagogo  Attacked  and  Defeated 

The  Meeting  with  Emin  Pasha. 


.  Frontispiece 
To  face  page  25 

»  „  40 

!i  II  63 

I,  ,,  71 

,,  „  101 

„  ,1  121 

„  „  133 

„  „  141 

,,  J,  loy 

„  II  161 

II  II  168 

„  ,1  191 

„  „  201 

II  „  205 

„  ,1  219 

II  II  227 

,1  ,1  236 

II  II  238 

,1  II  246 

II  ,1  252 

,,  II  267 

II  I,  289 

II  I,  296 

II  11  366 

11  II  372 

,,  ,,  o7y 

II  II  445 

II  456 

,1  II  477 

11  „  485 

II  II  ^^o 

„  „  536 


LIST    OF    ILLUSTRATIONS    IN    THE    TEXT. 


The  German  Emin  Pasha  Committee    . 

Portraits  of  Rudolf  von  Bennigsen  and  Dr.  George  Irmer 

Portrait  of  Lieutenant-Captain  Rust     . 

Portrait  of  Herr  von  Tiedemann 

Portrait  of  Oskar  Borchert 


PAGE 

9 
11 
20 

21 
22 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


Portrait  of  Fritz  Bley     . 
The  Neosra  running  out  from  Dar-es-Salam 
"  Is  Kwaihu  Peak  in  Sight  ?  "   . 
Landing  in  Shimbye 
Loading  the  Camels 
Instructing  the  Somalis 
Rukua,  First  Servant  to  Dr.  Peters 
Hamiri's  Illustration 
Crossing  the  Tana  at  Mbuji 
On  the  Tana 

Tana  Landscape,  near  Oda-Boru-Euva 
Von  der  Heydt  House     . 
The  Von  der  Heydt  Islands 
The  "  Devil's  Field  "        . 
Wadsagga 

Building  the  Bridge  across  the  Tana 
Hunting  the  Rhinoceros  . 
Fording  the  Dika 
Hut  of  the  Wakikuyu     . 
Annoyed  by  Bulls 
Peace  Proposals  from  the  Massais 
The  Wakamasia  demand  Tribute 
Wakawirondo 

Hussein,  Leader  of  the  Somalis 
Shauri  with  the  Somali  Soldiers 
Mount  Sohrceder  and  Arendt  Bay 
Dr.  Peters  Reads  Stanley's  Letter 
A  Missionary  at  the  Plough 
Monseigneur  Livinhac      .... 
Musical  Instruments  of  the  Waganda   . 
Household  Utensils  of  the  Waganda    . 
Monseigneur  Livinhac  blessing  his  Pupils 
Wasiba  of  the  Island  of  Tabaliro 
Voyage  Along  the  Coast  of  Busiba 
•  Usukuma  Woman  Preparing  Corn 
Wasukuma  .  .  .  . 

Mission  House  in  Ukumbi 

The  Chief  Porter,  Musa,  Killed  by  a  Crocodile 
Animal  Life  in  the  Desert 
An  Usukuma  Dandy 
View  of  the  Plain  of  Ugogo  near  Mtive 
Destruction  of  the  Wagogo  Villages 
Usagara  Landscape  .... 


34 
37 
43 
60 
76 
80 
103 
108 
118 
128 
138 
157 
164 
183,  184 
199 
204 
208 
215 
232 
249 
281 
298,  299 


CHAPTER 


IN  GEiuiAyr. 

"  ThiDkcst  thnu,  jicTcliance. 
That  I  mj'  life  should  hate, 
And  to  the  desert  flee. 
For  that  not  erery 
Blossom-dream  hath  ripened;.'  ' 

n^HE  idea  ol'  carrying  help  to 
-L  Emin  Pasha,  on  his  post  at 
Waclelai,  M-as  alreacl_v  mooted  in 
the  spring  oi'  1886,  by  Professor 
SchAveinfurth,  who  was  at  that 
time  still  residing  at  Cairo. 
Schweinfiirth  in  those  days  wrote 


^^i^mt^^i^Mi^S'-ij 


■:-  Kaii.., 


2  yEW  LIGHT  OX  DARK  AFRICA. 

me   a   series  of  letters,   iu  which  he   made    communications 

concerning  Emin's  situation,  and  drew  attention  to  the  great 

importance  of  his  position  on  the  Upper  Nile.     These  letters, 

which  I  gave  to  the  public,  did  not  fail  to  produce 

First  ideas  .  °  .  .  „ 

of  an  an  impression  m  the  colonial  circles  of  Germany;  and 
already  at  that  time  a  few  efforts,  though  feeble  ones, 
were  initiated  with  the  view  of  succouring  our  fellow-country- 
man. I,  for  my  part,  was  so  completely  engrossed,  in  the 
year  1886,  in  business  connected  with  the  East  African  colonial 
acquisitions,  and  in  founding  the  German  East  Africa  Company, 
that,  with  the  best  will  in  the  world,  I  was  not  in  a  position 
to  give  my  attention  to  any  less  immediate  tasks  of  the  kind. 
It  was  the  year  in  which  Jlihlke  accomplished  his  Somali 
Expedition ;  the  year  in  which  the  Universal  German  Congress 
held  its  sittings  in  Berlin,  in  which  the  financing  of  the  East 
African  undertaking  was  begun,  and  the  so-called  London 
agreement  created  the  sphere  of  English  interests  in  Eastern 
Africa. 

Soon  afterwards,  Stanley  took  up  the  idea  of  carrying  help 
to  Emin  Pasha;  and  he  qiiickly  succeeded  in  financing  the 
Stanley's  undertaking  in  England.  Already  at  the  beginning 
departure  of  1887,  he  Started  from  Europe  for  Eastern  Africa, 

lOTC  A.£nc9. 

'  and  in  the  spring  of  the  same  year  he  arrived  at  the 
Congo,  with  the  band  he  had  recruited  in  Zanzibar. 

I  was  in  Zanzibar  in  that  year,  occupied  in  regulating  the 
affairs  of  the  coast,  and  in  introducing  a  few  fundamental 
measures  of  administration  in  our  colony.  I  was  successful, 
Public  ^"  J"^y  1^^^'  ^^  inducing  the  Sultan  of  Zanzibar  to 
'ezclted'  ^o'^clude  a  preliminary  treaty,  which  in  principle 
established  the  transfer  of  the  administration  of  the 
customs  and  the  coast  to  the  German  East  Africa  Company. 
Nevertheless,  the  Stanley  expedition  to  the  territories  of  the 
Upper  Nile  naturally  could  not  fail  to  draw  the  attention  of 
the  public  circles  more  and  more  to  itself,  and  especially  the 
attention  of  all  who  were  practically  interested  in  the  develop- 
ment of  the  regions  around  the  lakes  of  Central  Africa.  In 
the  first  rank  of  these  stood  the  German  East  Africa  Company. 


HOW   THE   GERMAN  EXPEDITION  AROSE.  3 

When  I  reached  Europe  again,  in  February  1888,  after  my 
recall  from  Zanzibar,  the  chairman  of  the  German  East  Africa 
Company,  Herr  Carl  von  cler  Heydt,  at  Nervi,  handed  German 
me  a  memorial,  which  set  forth  circumstantially  the  Ixpedfuon^ 
idea  of  a  German  Emin  Pasha  Expedition,  and  gave  a  projected, 
prospect  of  a  subscription  of  300,000  marks  (£15,000),  provided 
I  felt  inclined  to  undertake  the  leadership.  I  acquiesced  in  the 
proposal  in  principle,  but  declared  that  my  final  decision  must 
depend  upon  the  manner  in  which  the  idea  was  received  in 
Germany. 

Meanwhile  the  fate  of  our  countryman  in  Wadelai  had 
gradually  awakened  the  purely  human  interest  in  large  circles 
of  the  German  people.  This  more  general  interest  manifested 
itself  in  a  motion  by  the  Nuremberg  division,  of  which  my 
brother  was  at  that  time  secretary.  This  was  put  before  the 
directing  body  of  the  German  Colonial  Company  in  April 
1888,  and  represented  the  succouring  of  our  countryman  in 
Wadelai  as  a  duty  that  touched  the  honour  of  the  German 
people.  The  directorate  of  the  Colonial  Company  gave  a 
favourable  reception  to  this  motion,  and  declared  itself  ready  to 
support  an  undertaking  conceived  in  the  spirit  of  the  proposal. 

It  was  to  get  this  carried  into  effect  that  I  invited  a  number 
of  friends  of  the  colonial  cause  to  meet,  on  June  27th  in 
that  year,  for  a  private  discussion  in  a  hall  of  the  House 
of  Deputies.  On  that  evening,  gentlemen  to  the  rirst  steps 
number  of  fourteen  put  in  an  appearance,  and  these  rerusfng 
determined,  after  an  introductory  deliberation,  to  *^^  ^^**- 
constitute  themselves  a  provisional  committee  for  the  relief 
of  Emin  Pasha.  The  provisional  chairmanship  of  this  com- 
mittee was  entrusted  to  me ;  it  was  further  determined  definitely 
to  settle  upon  a  form  of  appeal  to  be  issued,  and  to  work 
privately  for  an  increase  of  the  provisional  committee,  in 
order  to  carry  it  out.  I  here  insert  this  appeal  in  the  form 
in  which  it  was  drawn  up  on  September  17th,  1888,  as  it 
accurately  portrays  the  views  in  which  the  German  Emin  Pasha 
movement  originated,  and  accordingly  sets  forth  the  ultimate 
basis  of  our  undertaking  : — 


4  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

"  Appeal  ! 

"  The  insurrection  of  the  Mahdi  in  the  Soudan  has  destroyed 
the  first  holdings  of  European  civilisation  on  the  Upper  Nile  ; 
the  cultured  world  sees  with  terror  how  the  horrors  of  an  un- 
bridled system  of  slave-dealing  are  spreading  more  and  more. 
The  report  that  our  German  fellow-countryman,  Dr. 

Services  ^  . 

of  Emin  Eduard  Sehnitzer,  Emin  Pasha,  was  able  to  mamtain 
the  Equatorial  Provinces  in  the  south  of  the  Soudan, 
entrusted  to  him  by  the  Egyptian  Government,  against  the 
assault  of  the  Mahdi,  and  is  there  defending  with  his  troops 
a  last  bulwark  of  European  culture,  has  awakened  in  Europe 
the  hope  that  Emin  Pasha's  provinces  will  be  able  to  furnish 
the  point  of  departure  for  the  civilising  of  Central  Africa. 
With  ample  means  Stanley  went  forth,  commissioned  by  the 
English,  to  re-establish  communications  with  Emin  Pasha ; 
unfortunately  his  expedition  must  be  considered  as  a  failure. 
"  Emin  Pasha,  however,  is  in  urgent  need  of  help  ;  his 
letters  announce  that  his  ammunition  and  stores  are  becom- 
ing exhausted.  Shall  our  heroic  countryman,  left  without 
succour,  be  abandoned  to  destruction,  and  his  province,  won  to 
civilisation  by  German  energy,  become  the  prey  of  barbarism  ? 
The  attempts  to  reach  Emin  from  the  Congo  have  failed  ;  but 
from  Eastern  Africa  the  best  and  safest  way  leads  to  the  Upper 
Nile,  and  there  is  German  territory  that  gives  the  safest  points 
of  departure  and  support  for  an  Emin  Pasha  Expedition.  The 
Duty  of  the  German  nation  is  called  upon  to  bring  help  to  the 
tlwarT  German  Dr.  Sehnitzer.  But  this  help,  if  it  is  not  to 
i^-  be  too  late,  must  be  given  without  delay.      Accord- 

ingly, the  German  Emin  Pasha  Committee  turns  to  the  nation 
for  practical  support.  May  each  man  contribute  his  share 
to  the  accomplishment  of  an  undertaking,  which  not  only  aims 
to  advance  our  transmarine  position,  and  open  new  paths  to 
German  commerce,  but  is  pre-eminently  calculated  to  fulfil  a 
duty  of  honour,  incumbent  upon  the  bold  German  pioneer. 
Considerable  sums  have  already  flowed  in  upon  the  under- 
signed Committee ;  but  to  proceed  at  once  to  the  carrying  out 


THE   COMMITTEE  AND   THE  LEADERSHIP.  5 

of  the  expedition,  the  promptest  general  and  readiest  liberal 
participation  of  extended  circles  is  necessary.  We  beg  that 
contributions  may  be  made  payable  to  our  Treasurer,  Carl 
von  der  Heydt,  in  Elberfeld,  at  the  places  appointed  by  him : 
The  German  East  Africa  Company,  in  Berlin,  W.,  Krausen- 
strasse,  76  ;  or  the  German  East  African  Plantation  Company, 
in  Berlin,  W.,  Kaiserin-Augusta-Strasse,  71  ;  or  to  Herren  von 
der  Heydt-Kersten  und  Sohne,  in  Elberfeld." 

(Here  follow  the  signatures.) 

In  conclusion,  it  was  determined,  already  at  this  first  meet- 
ing, on  the  motion  of  Dr.  Otto  Arendt,  to  put  forward  my  name 
as  the  leader  of  the  expedition,  with  extensive  powers.  The 
following  gentlemen,  according  to  the  report,  took  part  in  the 
sitting:  Herren  v.  Steun,  J.  Wagner  (classical-school  teacher), 
Baron  v.  Langermann,  Councillor  v.  Vedden,  Governmental 
President  v.  Pilgrim,  Schultz-Lupitz,  Livonius,  Lucas,  Major- 
General  v.  Teichmann  and  Logischen,  Dr.  Schroeder,  Dr. 
Timotheus  Fabri,  Dr.  Arendt,  and  Ministerial  Director  „ 

'  '  Managing 

Sachse.      For  the  further  prosecution  of  the  affair,  a  committee 
managing  committee  of  five  members  was  chosen  from 
among    these    gentlemen.      It    consisted   of  Herren   Arendt, 
Livonius,  Peters,  Sachse,  and  Schroeder. 

This  committee,  which  met  on  July  7th,  determined, 
before  any  other  steps,  to  send  memorials  to  His  Majesty  the 
Emperor,  and  to  the  Imperial  Chancellor  Prince  von  Bismarck, 
soliciting  their  approval  of  the  projected  undertaking.  In  a 
sitting  of  July  18th  we  elected  the  following  gentlemen  as 
additional  members  of  this  committee:  The  Minister  of  ^.^j  _ 
State  V.  Hofmann,  Professor  Dr.  Schweinfurth,  Retired  mentoftiie 

„  committee. 

First  Lieutenant  Wissmann,  and  Assessor  Lucas,  irom 
this  day  the  attempts  began  to  arrange  a  co-operation  between 
Wissmann  and  myself  in  the  leadership  of  the  expedition. 
In  Madeira,  where  he  had  been  staying  for  three-quarters  of 
a  year,  for  the  healing  of  a  diseased  lung,  Wissmann  had  also 
conceived  the  idea  of  a  German  Emin  Pasha  Expedition,  and 
we  at  once  agreed,  at  any  rate,  to  try  whether  it  would  not  be 
possible  to  undertake  the  matter  in  common. 


6 


NEW  LIGHT   ON  DARK  AFRICA. 


This  attempt  certaiiil)^  did  not  offer  any  great  prospect  of 
a  good  result,  because  it  placed  in  jeopardy  the  first  condition 
of  success  in  such  an  aflFair,  namely,  the  unity  of  command. 
Co-opera-  This  was  as  iuUy  recognised  by  Wissmann  as  by  myself; 
wissmann  accordingly,  we  very  soon  agreed  upon  the  point  that 
proposed,  it  would  be  necessary  to  bring  about  a  division  of  the 
expedition  itself,  or,  to  put  it  more  clearly,  to  set  two  expedi- 
tions on  foot.  Here,  again,  the  difficulty  arose,  how  to  bring 
about  unity  of  action  in  the  locality  itself,  the  Equatorial 
Province.  To  render  this  practicable,  Wissmann  made  a 
written  declaration,  at  Wiesbaden,  that  in  carrying  out  the 
German  Emin  Pasha  Expedition  he  would  subordinate  himself 
to  me,  in  such  measure  as  I  should  consider  necessary. 

In  Wiesbaden  the  preparations  could  be  made  for  the 
definitive  constituting  of  the  German  Emin  Pasha  Committee  and 
resolutions  passed  ;  and  here,  on  the  occasion  of  a  public  meet- 
ing of  the  committee  of  the  German  Colonial  Company, 
of  the  this  constitution  was  accordingly  effected.  The  sub- 
aM'prince  scriptions  had  at  that  time  already  reached  the  amount 
Bismarck,  gf  324^413  jjjarks  (£1J,220  13s.)  ;  and  answers  to  the 
memorials  sent  by  the  provisional  committee  had  been  received 
from  His  Majesty  the  Emperor  and  Prince  Bismarck,  sympa- 
thetically welcoming  the  carrying  out  of  a  German  Emin  Pasha 
Expedition.  The  committee  had,  moreover,  spread  itself  over 
the  whole  of  Germany,  and  now  counted  more  than  a  hundred 
members. 

In  the  decisive  sitting  at  Wiesbaden,  on  September  12th, 
1888,  the  following  gentlemen  were  present : — 


Vice-Admiral  Livonius,  Berlin. 
Chamberlain   Count     Behr-Bandelin, 

Giitzkow. 
Dr.  Irmer,  Hanover. 
Professor  Dr.  Fabri,  Godesberg. 
Prince  Hohenlohe-Langenburg. 
Privy  Councillor  Simon,  Berlin,deputy 

of  the  Landtag. 
J.  Ulrich,  Pfungstadt,  member  of  the 

Reichstag. 


PtumpfF  Schloss  Aprath,  deputy  of  the 

Reichstag. 
V.  Pal^zieux,  Weimar. 
Dr.  Schroeder,  Poggelow. 
K.  V.  d.  Heydt,  Elberfeld. 
Dr.   Otto  Arendt,  Berlin,  deputy  of 

the  Landtag. 
Privy- Commission  Councillor  Lucius, 

Erfurt,  member  of  the  Landtag. 
Heszler,  Erfurt. 


INITIATORY  MEASURES   TO  BE   TAKEN. 


Dr.  Ritter,  General  Director,  Wal- 
denburg,  in  Silesia. 

Dr.  Fritz  Becker,  Worms. 

Dr.  Eud.  Grosse,Strassburg,  in  Elsass. 

Lieut.  Maercker,  Strassburg,in  Elsass. 

Wissmann,  retired  First  Lieutenant. 

Dr.  M.  Busse,  Mining  Councillor, 
Dortmund. 

Dr.  M.  Lindeman,  Bremen. 

L.  Friederichsen,  Hamburg. 

Max.  Schubert,  manufacturer,  Chem- 
nitz. 

G.  Wittenbrinck,  teacher  at  the  High 
School,  Burgsteinfurt. 

Dr.  Wibel,  M.D.,  Wiesbaden. 

D.  Kreszmann,  retired  Major,  Karls- 
ruhe, in  Baden. 

Grosz,  advocate,  Pforzheim. 


Dr.  Grimm,  Ministerial  President, 
retired,  Karlsruhe,  in  Baden. 

Gerhard  Eohlfs,  Weimar,  Consul- 
General. 

Chr.  Frhr.  v.  Tucher,  Government 
Councillor,  Niirnberg. 

Sachse,  Director  in  the  Imperial  Post 
Office,  Berlin. 

Dr.  E.  Sernau,  Berlin. 

V.  Hofmann,  Minister  of  State,  Berlin. 

Dr.  Carl  Peters. 

Heszler,  Government  Architect. 

G.  Truppel,  Rudolstadt. 

Heinrich  Schaerer,  Niirnberg. 

Wilhelm,  Prince  of  Wied,  Neuwied. 

V.  Cuny,  Privy  Councillor  of  Jus- 
tice, BerHn,  deputy  of  the  Eeichs- 
tag  and  the  Landtag. 


The  feeling  in  this  meeting  was  entirely  in  accordance  with 
the  great  thought  for  the  realisation  of  which  it  had  assembled. 
Almost  unanimously,  the  conviction  was  held  that  the  question 
of  supporting  our  countryman  in  Wadelai  involved  a  duty  of 
honour  for  the  German  people,  and  that  the  circles  who  had 
inscribed  the  colonial-political  idea  on  their  banner  were  called 
upon,  more  than  all  the  rest,  to  discharge  this  honourable  duty. 
The  colonial-political  points  of  view  have,  in  the  whole  move- 
ment, been  regarded  as  of  secondary  importance.  In  accordance 
with  this  unity  of  view,  the  resolutions  of  the  day  were  all 
carried  unanimously.  Among  these  the  most  important  were 
the  resolution  to  convert  the  provisional  committee  Definite 
into  an  authoritative  one,  and  the  resolution,  on  the  o"the  com- 
motion of  Prince  Hohenlohe,  to  instal  myself,  the  ™i"ee. 
Minister  of  State  v.  Hofmann,  and  Dr.  Schroeder  as  presidents. 
Herr  Carl  v.  d.  Heydt  was  chosen  as  treasurer,  and  Dr.  Arendt 
as  secretary.  The  general  committee  requested  the  committee 
of  management  to  carry  on  an  extensive  agitation  in  speech  and 
writing,  and  on  all  sides  the  necessity  of  speedily  putting  our 
intentions  into  practice  was  emphatically  insisted  upon.  The 
sum  which  we  then  considered  necessary  for  carrying  out  the 


8  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

Emin  Pasha  Expedition  we  estimated  at  400,000  marks 
(£20,000).  The  question  was,  accordingly,  the  collecting  of 
176,000  marks  in  Germany  for  the  undertaking.  But  the 
assembly  was  under  the  impression  that  this  would  hardly 
occasion  any  serious  difficulty,  as  in  a  very  short  time,  in  a 
,  ,  narrower  circle,   the   amount  of  full  225,000   marks 

Amount  of 

money        (£'11,250)  had  been  reached.     To  give  an  impulse  to 
such  further  subscriptions,  the  appeal,  which  had  till 
then  been  pursued  in  a  private  manner,  was  now  to  be  signed 
by  the  full  committee  and  brought  before  the  public. 

The  sitting  was  closed  in  an  enthusiastic  spirit,  with  cheers 
for  His  Majesty  the  Emperor.  But  it  was  a  very  remarkable 
coincidence,  that  just  at  that  moment  I  received  the  first  de- 
tailed despatch  on  the  spreading  of  the  insurrectionary  move- 
Troubies  in  ™®^*  On  the  East  Coast  of  Africa.  The  thought 
the  east  of  obtruded  itself  whether  these  occurrences  in  Pangani, 
Bagamoyo,  and  Dar-es-Salam  might  not  perhaps  neces- 
sitate, if  not  the  entire  cancelling  of  the  plan  for  which  we  had 
assembled  in  Wiesbaden,  at  any  rate  considerable  modifications 
in  carrying  it  out.  Meanwhile,  however,  already  in  the  after- 
Dr.  Peters  ^°°^  °^  September  12th  the  committee  of  manage- 
appointed   meut  assembled   for   a   private    sitting,  at  which,   in 

commander.  '  °'  ' 

consequence  of  the  answer  given  by  Wissmann,  the 
command  of  the  entire  undertaking  was  entrusted  to  me,  with 
a  co-operation  that  was  to  be  as  independent  as  possible  on 
Wissmann's  part. 

Concerning  this  determination  there  have  been  discussion 
and  disputation  in  the  press.  We  did  not  at  that  time  make  it 
public  in  its  entirety,  and,  as  is  often  the  case,  throughout  the 
whole  winter  of  1888-89,  public  opinion,  in  its  conjectures, 
moved  along  a  false  track.  The  question  of  the  division  of 
the  command  between  Wissmann  and  myself  occupied  the 
Arrange-  committee  of  management  once  more  on  September 
ment^be-  19th,  1888.  On  that  day  Herren  Livonius,  Sachse, 
ImIZ.  ^^^  Schweinfurth  were  commissioned  to  conclude 
'  agreements  with  Wissmann  and  me,  concerning  the 
carrying  out  of  the  Emin  Pasha  Expedition,  on  the  basis  of 


10  XEW  LIGHT   ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

the  Wiesbaden  resolutions.  As  a  basis  of  our  joint  advance,  it 
was  determined — and  in  the  main  it  was  adhered  to,  so  long  as 
Wissmann  remained  in  the  combination — that  he  should  start 
at  once  with  a  small  column  to  march  as  far  as  the  Albert 
Nyanza  Lake.  Meanwhile  I  was  to  organise  the  main  column. 
At  the  Albert  Nyanza  we  were  to  meet,  and  Wissmann,  with 
his  column,  of  which  he  was  to  retain  the  independent  com- 
mand, was  then  to  take  part  in  a  plan  of  operations,  to  be 
instruc-  delivered  to  him  by  me,  and  determined  on  by  the 
to'wifr^"^  committee.  On  September  23rd  it  was  added  that 
mann.  Wissmann  was  to  start  for  Zanzibar  on  October  5th  or 
12th,  and  that  the  question  of  the  route  should  be  left  to  us  two 
leaders,  aided  by  the  advice  of  competent  persons.  In  the  same 
manner,  the  selection  of  the  guns  was  to  be  left  to  us  two. 

During  this  period  the  movement  was  going  forward  in 
Germany.  On  the  foundation  of  the  Wiesbaden  resolutions  the 
Livei  in  Gierman  Colonial  Company  joined  it.  In  Hanover  the 
terest  in  North-West  German  Union  for  the  assistance  of  Emin 
Pasha  was  founded,  under  the  presidency  of  Rudolf 
von  Bennigsen.  An  address  which  Herr  Ministerial  Director 
Sachse  had  delivered  at  Wiesbaden  was  circulated  throughout 
the  whole  of  Germany,  and  collections  began  to  be  made  every- 
where, in  smaller  circles,  so  that  there  was  no  longer  any  doubt 
that  the  required  400,000  marks  would  be  raised. 

But  at  the  same  time  the  insurrectionary  movement  on  the 
East  African  coast  went  on  side  by  side  with  it.  The  East 
Progress  Africa  Company  was  compelled  to  evacuate,  in  quick 
African*''  succession,  the  coast  places  given  over  to  it  on 
disturb-  August  15th,  with  the  exception  of  Bagamoyo  and 
Dar-es-Salam.  In  Kiloa  Kirindshe  the  officials  of 
the  Company  were  murdered  ;  and,  looked  at  from  Europe,  it 
appeared  as  if  the  whole  of  Eastern  Africa  were  bursting  into 
flame.  This  certainly  proved  afterwards  to  be  altogether  an 
error  ;  and  the  Emin  Pasha  Expedition  especially  was  able, 
by  its  proceedings,  to  show  that  it  was  so.  The  agitation  did 
not,  in  fact,  extend  to  the  real  negro  world  of  Eastern  Africa, 
with  the  exception  of  the  tribe  of  the  Mafiti,  who  were  personally 


THE  Rifiixa   IN   EASTEB.y  AFTUCA. 


11 


stirred  up  by  Bushiri.  Even  the  Wapokomo,  on  the  Tana,  had 
no  intelligence  of  this  insurrectionaiy  movement,  ranch  less 
the  Gallas  and  the  Massais. 

Nevertheless,  it  is  manifest  that  the  leaders  of  the  Emin 
Pasha  movement  fonnd  themselves  compelled,  at  the  end  of 
September  188S,  to  consider  the  question  whether  the  expe- 
dition could  be  carried  out  at  that  moment,  when  the  state 
of  things  that  had  existed  in  the  "Wiesbaden  days  had  been 
so  entirely  altered.  This  was  the  cjuestion  that  occupied  the 
committee  on  the  morning  of  September  30th.     In  this  sitting, 


Rudolf  v.  Eexnigsen.  De.  George  Iioiek, 

FrL'xhhfHt,  Vice-Pirs'idvut. 

Of  the.  XiirthAVest   Gi-nnan    Unhm  for  the  Succonr  of  Emin  Fashu. 

besides  members  of  the  committee.  Dr.  Junker  of  Vienna  also 
took  part.  I  had  to  announce  at  the  meeting  the  opinion 
adopted  by  the  German  East  Africa  Company,  that  the  rising 
in  Eastern  Africa  had  become  organised  under  a  unity  of 
leadership,  and  held  possession  of  the  caravan  roads.  At 
the  conclusion  of  my  rejiort,  I  suggested  the  question  whether 
an  advance  in  union  with  England  and  the  Congo  State  did 
not  recommend  itself,  in  view  of  this  new  condition  Question  of 
of  affairs.  Wissmann  declared  on  the  same  occasion,  titn  with 
following  up  my  announcement,  that  in  his  ophiion  England, 
tlie  Emin  Pasha  Expedition,  according  to  the  original  design, 
had  now  become  impossible.     Dr.  Junker,  too,  sided  with  us. 


12  NEW  LIGHT   ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

and  recommended  united  action  with  England  and  Portugal  for 
the  subjection  of  the  Arabs.  My  advice  was  that  we  should, 
in  the  first  place,  put  ourselves  in  communication  with  the 
English  Emin  Pasha  committee.  In  view  of  these  proceed- 
ings, Herr  Ministerial  Director  Sachse  insisted  on  the  necessity 
of  going  on  with  the  collections  under  all  circumstances,  so 
that  the  favourable  moment  might  be  seized,  when  it  should 
present  itself,  for  putting  the  enterprise  in  execution.  His 
Excellency  von  Hofmann  and  I  supported  this  method  of 
procedure,  and  drew  up  the  following  motion,  which  was 
unanimously  adopted : — 

"  Considering  that  according  to  the  declared  opinion  of 
competent  persons  whose  counsel  has  been  sought  on  the 
Besoiution  ^^^j^ct,*  the  accomplishing  of  the  Emin  Pasha  Ex- 
forpost-  pedition,  according  to  the  plan  hitherto  proposed,  has 
become  impossible  at  the  present  moment,  in  conse- 
quence of  the  disturbances  that  have  broken  out  in  Eastern 
Africa,  the  committee  resolves  to  postpone  the  expedition  until 
such  time  as  it  shall  appear  possible  in  the  view  of  the  Imperial 
Government,  but  meanwhile  to  proceed  with  the  collections  for 
the  undertaking  in  the  way  already  adopted." 

The  contents  of  this  resolution  were  published  by  us  at  the 
time,  and  the  news  was  welcomed  with  great  jubilation  by  our 
opponents  in  the  press.  It  was  considered  the  undertaking  had 
failed. 

In  consequence  of  this  sitting,  a  report  was  made  to  the 
Imperial  Chancellor,  Prince  Bismarck,  who  in  his  reply,  dated 
Friedrichsruh,  October  16th,  expressed  a  wish  that  the  manag- 
ing section  of  the  German  Emin  Pasha  committee  should  enter 
Encourage-  iuto  relations  with  the  German  East  Africa  Company, 
Price"™  ^'^^  endeavour  to  agree  upon  a  plan  for  a  common 
Bismarck,  advance  and  mutual  support.  Thereupon  the  managing 
committee  resolved,  on  October  21st,  1888,  to  inform  the  Im- 
perial Chancellor  that  it  would  obey  the  suggestion  offered  in 
his  letter,  and  place  itself  in  communication  with  the  German 

*  Schweinfurth  also  took  part  in  this  sitting. 


QUESTION  OF  THE  TANA   ROUTE.  13 

East  Africa  Company.  Negotiations  were  accordingly  opened 
with  the  aforesaid  Company,  and  led  to  an  agreement  which  was 
reported  to  the  Foreign  Department ;  but  a  new  position  taken 
up  by  the  Government,  with  respect  to  East  African  affairs 
in  general,  caused  the  business  to  deviate  into  an  entirely 
different  direction. 

Meanwhile,  in  view  of  the  state  of  things  prevailing  in  the 
German  East  African  protected  territory,  the  question  arose  in 
the  managing  committee,  whether  it  might  not  be  possible, for  the 
carrying  out  of  the  expedition,  entirely  to  avoid  this  insurrec- 
tionary region.  Wissmann  especially,  and  various  others,  drew 
attention  to  the  Tana  route  as  a  possible  way  of  reaching  the 
Equatorial  Province.  This  route,  if  it  were  practicable,  cer- 
tainly offered  the  advantage  that  the  undertaking  proposed 
would  be  commenced  forthwith.  There  could  not,  the  Tan^a 
indeed,  be  a  question  of  a  definite  Tana  route,  for  ^  Material 
the  caravan  traffic  of  Eastern  Africa  had  never  yet  Province, 
taken  that  direction  ;  and  in  such  cases  the  existence  of  certain 
physical  obstacles  may  always  be  counted  on,  that  hinder 
traffic  along  so  great  a  river  as  the  Tana.  It  was  hardly  to 
be  supposed  that  commercial  intercourse  would  not  have  taken 
its  way  along  the  Tana  if  that  route  had  really  been  suited  to 
the  peculiar  conditions  of  East  African  commercial  life.  There 
was  moreover  the  fact  that  the  greater  part  of  the  subscrip- 
tions had  emanated  from  the  circles  of  the  German  East 
Africa  Company,  which  supported  the  Emin  Pasha  Expedition, 
in  the  hope  that  this  undertaking  would  develop  itself  chiefly 
in  the  German  East  African  protected  territory.  These  ques- 
tions became  the  subject  of  discussion  in  the  German  „  .  . 

J  _  Opinions  or 

Colonial  Company  on  November  22nd.  Wissmann  on  wissmann 
that  occasion  recommended  the  Tana  route,  about  which 
I  expressed  doubt.  These  debates  on  pure  matters  of  detail, 
which  moreover  were  concluded  by  a  complete  understanding, 
already  on  November  25th,  furnished  the  hostile  press  with 
matter  for  outbursts  of  joy,  on  the  dissension  in  the  German 
Emin  Pasha  committee — "  Wissmann  contra  Peters  !  " 

On  November   25th,  the  German  Emin  Pasha  committee 


14  XEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

resolved  unanimously  to  take  in  hand,  without  delay,  the 
starting  of  the  Emin  Pasha  Expedition  ;  and  Wissmann,  to 
whom,  according  to  the  decision  of  September,  the  free  choice 
Resolution  of  his  route  was  left,  was  to  betake  himself,  as  quickly 
withThe*  as  possible,  to  Africa,  where  he  could  study  the  cir- 
expedition.  cumstauces  On  the  spot,  and  select  his  route  according 
to  the  information  obtained.  It  was  noted  as  desirable  that, 
if  it  could  be  done  Avithout  undue  loss  of  time,  the  route  should 
be  through  the  German  East  African  territory.  It  was  further 
arranged  that  I  also  should  prepare  the  part  of  the  expedition 
entrusted  to  me  as  quickly  as  possible,  and  begin  carrying  it 
out.  On  the  strength  of  this  resolution,  we  both  at  once  set 
about  purchasing  the  equipments  necessary  for  the  expedition. 

Affairs  were  in  this  state,  when  Prince  Bismarck  resolved 
to  take  Government  action  in  East  Africa,  placing  First 
Lieutenant  Wissmann  in  command.  Wissmann  accordingly 
retired  from  the  German  Emin  Pasha  Expedition ;  and  now  the 
Prince  plan  of  a  dual  expedition  was  naturally  abandoned. 
^hangr^f°  Although  a  valuable  power  was  thus  withdrawn  from 
*^°"*-  the  enterprise,  on  the  other  side  all  the  means  were 
now  placed  in  one  hand,  and,  above  all,  the  unity  of  command 
was  assured ;  and  whatever  aspect  affairs  in  German  East 
Africa  might  assume,  the  first  condition  for  the  success  of  the 
undertaking  was  thus  fulfilled. 

It  is  well  known  that  during  all  this  time  various  rumours 
concerning  Emin  Pasha  were  spread  abroad  from  England 
throughout  all  Europe.  At  one  time  Emin  Pasha  and  Stanley 
were  both  said  to  have  been  killed  by  the  Mahdi ;  at  another 
Conflicting  *^^  former  was  reported  to  be  alone  in  captivity  at 
corerning  ^^^^^^""^ '  ^S^^^'  ^^^^  ^^^^  Said  to  be  retreating 
p^ha  ^^^^  *^^  province  of  Wadelai.  These  rumours, 
which  were  at  first  believed  here  in  Germany,  were, 
however,  so  contradictory,  that  we  at  last  came  to  the  con- 
clusion, which  was  not  confuted  by  the  subsequent  actual 
departure  of  Emin  Pasha  with  Stanley,  that  they  were  inventions 
put  about  with  a  purpose,  and  calculated  to  prevent  the  carry- 
mg  out  of  the  German  Emin  Pasha  Expedition.     For  of  the 


DOUBTS  AND  DIFFICULTIES.  15 

departure  of  Emin  and  Stanley  nothing  at  all  was  known  in 
England  at  that  time,  and  there  was  consequently  no  objective 
foundation  for  the  appearance  of  these  reports.  Accordingly 
we  were  resolved  not  to  be  deceived  by  them. 

Our  position  was  different  with  regard  to  the  plans  of  the 
German  Imperial  Government  in  Eastern  Africa.  It  was,  of 
course,  altogether  alien  from  our  intention  to  undertake  any- 
thing whose  accomplishment  might  be  obstructive  or  Embarrass- 
even  inconvenient  to  the  Imperial  procedure.  WeJi^^'^-Ji 
had,  indeed,  planned  the  German  Emin  Pasha  Expedi- 1?^^^  *" 
tion  solely  with  the  object  of  thereby  doing  service  to  ment. 
our  German  East  African  colonial  undertakings.  How  could  it 
have  entered  into  the  thoughts  of  the  German  Emin  Pasha 
committee,  consisting  as  it  did  entirely  of  national  men,  to 
advance  otherwise  than  in  full  agreement  with  a  Government 
which  at  that  very  time,  was  about  to  act  in  accordance  with 
the  wishes  of  the  colonial-political  elements  of  Germany  in 
Eastern  Africa  ?  If  even  one  or  another  had  cherished  the 
wish  to  carry  out,  under  all  circumstances,  that  German  Emin 
Pasha  enterprise,  on  which  so  much  strength  and  time  had  been 
expended,  a  resolution  in  this  sense  was  entirely  precluded,  in 
a  large  majority  of  the  committee,  in  the  event  of  an  in- 
timation from  the  Imperial  Government,  to  the  effect  that  in 
the  present  state  of  affairs  in  Eastern  Africa  it  no  longer 
thought  this  expedition  desirable. 

Thus  in  January  1889  we  were  especially  desirous  to 
ascertain  definitely  the  actual  attitude  of  the  Foreign  Office. 
On  January  3rd,  the  managing  committee  determined,  on 
the    motion     of    Herr    Ministerial-Director    Sachse,  _    ,  .. 

Kesolution 

"to  abandon  the  hitherto  contemplated  division  offor  unity  of 
the  command  of  the  expedition ;  to  entrust  to  Herr 
Dr.  Peters  the  leadership  of  the  entire  expedition,  according 
to  the  stipulations  agreed  upon  with  Captain  Wissmann  in  the 
compact  of  December  20th,  1888,  those  regulations  being 
omitted,  which  were  made  in  contemplation  of  a  second 
expedition."  This  resolution  was  at  once  made  known  to 
the  Foreign  Office,  and  was  not  followed  by  any  withdrawal 


16 


NEW  LIGHT   ON  BARK  AFRICA. 


of  the  former  expressions  of  sympathy  with  the  carrying  out 
of  the  expedition.  I  was  privately  informed,  through  Wissmann, 
that  a  written  answer  would  not  be  given  to  our  last  com- 
Co  uni  niunication ;  but  that  the  Secretary  of  State  Count 
cation  from  Herbert  von  Bismarck  gave  me  to  understand  that  the 
Her  Imperial  Government  was  now,  as  formerly,  favourably 

Bismarck.  (j^gpQgg^^  towards  the  project,  and  only  requested 
that  I  should  maintain  an  understanding  with  it  concerning 
the  steps  I  intended  to  take.  In  this  case  the  German 
Government  would  be  glad  to  support  the  expedition,  so  far  as 
was  compatible  with  its  action  on  the  Eastern  coast  of  Africa. 
This  declaration,  which  Herr  Dr.  Arendt  and  I  were  able 
officially  to  announce  at  the  sitting  of  the  general  committee 
on  January  31st,  1889,  appeared  to  the  committee  sufficient 
ground  for  resolving  on  the  immediate  carrying  out  of  the 
German  Emin  Pasha  Expedition. 

At  this  sitting  the  following  gentlemen  were  present : — 


Parliamentary  deputy  Liickhoff. 

Dr.  Wagner,    teacher   at   the    Latin 

School. 
Major  von  Steun. 
Assessor     Lucas,     Director     of     the 

German  East  Africa  Company. 
Parliamentary    deputy    Government 

President  von  Pilgrim. 
Ministerial  Director  Sachse. 
"Vice- Admiral  Livonius. 
Imperial  deputy  Count  von  Mirbach- 

Sorquitten. 
Parliamentary  deputy  Count  Hue  de 

Grais. 
Count  von  Hake. 

His  Excellency  von  Drigalski  Pasha. 
Imperial     deputy       Count      Arnim- 

Muskau. 
Parliamentary  deputy  Professor  Dr. 

Friedberg. 


Parliamentary  deputy  Pobbe. 

Parliamentary  deputy  Syndic  Tramm. 

Parliamentary  deputy  Muhl. 

Parliamentary  deputy  Privy  Coun- 
cillor Simon. 

Imperial  deputy  Woermann,  of  Ham- 
burg. 

Imperial  deputy  RudoH  von  Bennig- 
sen. 

Imperial  deputy  J.  Ulrich. 

Parliamentary  deputy  Gerlich. 

Minister  of  State  von  Hofmann. 

Parliamentary  deputy  Dr.  Otto 
Arendt. 

Parliamentary  deputy  Government 
President  von  Tiedemann. ' 

Imperial  and  Parliamentary  deputy 
von  Kardorif. 

Dr.  Irmer,  of  Hanover. 

Dr.  Carl  Peters. 


These   gentlemen  unanimously  resolved  to  commence  the 


CONFLICT  OF  HOPES  AND  FEARS.  17 

expedition  immediately,  and  to  commission  me  to  proceed  to 
Africa  at  the  first  opportunity,  to  undertake  the  com-  ^j^^  ^^p^^j. 
mand  there   in  person.     In  my   proceedings   in  Eastt^'"'*"' 

A  f-  •  T  ^1  n  r.     .  ?        .  ,  Start  Under 

Atrica   1   was    to    keep   myself   m   accord    with   the  Dr.  Peters, 
impending  Government  action. 

By  this  resolution  the  German  Emin  Pasha  movement  had 
provided  the  basis  on  which  we  were  to  work  in  Eastern  Africa. 
It  was  a  very  serious  moment  for  me,  when  I  expressed  my 
thanks  to  the  committee  for  the  confidence  displayed  towards 
me,  by  placing  me  at  the  head  of  such  an  enterprise  in  such  a 
difficult  time.  I  resigned  the  chairmanship  of  the  committee, 
which  the  Minister  of  State  von  Hofmann  undertook  ;  for  now, 
as  its  commissioner,  I  was  to  labour  for  the  object  in  view. 
The  preparations  in  Germany  were  fully  completed  in  Prepara- 
the  course  of  the  month  of  January ;  the  officers  f^l^^ 
for  the  expedition  were  engaged,  and  Herr  Fritz  chosen. 
Bley  in  Zanzibar  was  already  authorised  to  proceed  with  the 
hiring  of  porters.  The  very  next  day,  February  1st,  on  the 
strength  of  the  resolutions  of  the  preceding  evening,  I 
directed  Lieutenant-Captain  Rust  and  Herr  Fricke  to  start  on 
the  evening  of  that  day  for  Aden,  there  to  recruit  one  hundred 
Somali  soldiers  for  the  expedition.  Those  indeed,  who  opposed 
German  colonial  enterprise  on  principle,  now  as  ever,  took 
up  a  position  of  protest  against  the  expedition ;  and  espe- 
cially in  various  circles  of  the  nation,  the  confidence  in  my 
ability  to  carry  such  a  task  into  execution,  was  very  far  from 
strong.  But  after  the  resolutions  of  January  31st,  Doubts  and 
opinions  and  dispositions  of  mind  at  home  were  of*'"^*^"*'"^'- 
little  importance,  as  the  basis  for  the  work  was  here  fully 
assured ;  the  position  of  affairs  at  Zanzibar  and  on  the  coast 
would  now  determine  the  future  fortunes  of  the  expedition, 
and  the  manner  in  which  we  should  set  about  our  task  on 
our  arrival.  Opinions  and  humours  at  home  had  no  more 
importance  in  that  moment  than  the  blowing  of  the  autumn 
wind  round  the  battlements  of  a  strong  castle.  But  already 
more  real  obstacles  were  looming  on  the  horizon,  obstacles 
which  we  could  only  make  head  against  in  Africa  itself ;  and  it 

2 


18 


NE] 


L/(,'//T   ()X   DMIK   AFIlfCA. 


was  these  obstacles  that  diverted  tlie  course  oi'  the  German 
Emin  Pasha  Exjiedition  uito  far  different  ways  thai!  we  could 
„-^    ,.•     have  auticii)ated  ibr  it  ou  January  31st,  188!*.     When 

Difficulties  i  _  •  ^ 

to  be  en-     on   February   :35th  of  that  j'ear  I  set  out  from  Berlin 

countered.     ,.        i,  "    »  !•  •  x  r       ^  i  11  1  ■     t 

lor  Eastern  Airica,  1  perlectiy  understood  what  kind 
of  difficulties  and  dangers  I  was  going  to  encounter;  and  my 
]iarting  with  my  iViends  at  the  Anhalt  railway  station  Avas 
characterised  rather  by  seriousness  and  emotion  than  by 
joyful  hope. 


i 


—'^'^ 


;,^*wiS3 


"'*'*^■^l,.t^. 


ij^Bt '^■j^ljt^S^^^lrti*^^ 


/^^- 


CHAPTER    II. 

IN  ZANZIBAB   AND 
THE   BLOCKADED   TEBBITOBY. 

Aequam  memento  rebus  in  arduis 
SeiTare  mentem  ! 

(Horace.) 

Februar)'  20th  I  had  despatched 
Lieutenant  von  Tiedemann  to 
Aden,  to  assist  Lieutenant-Captain  Rust  in 
transporting  to  Lamu  the  hundred  Somali 
sohliers  enlisted  by  the  latter.  After  mature 
«="""  deliberation  I  had  determined  to  organise  my 
expedition  far  away  from  the  turmoil  of  the  East  African 
disorders,  in  Witu.  In  Germany  I  had  not  altogether  The  insur- 
made  up  my  mind  to  take  the  Tana  route,  being  fully  distriTtrto 
aware  of  the  technical  difficulties  it  presented  ;  but  I  ^e  avoided, 
foreboded  that  I  might  be  compelled  to  it.  At  all  events,  the 
tranquil  condition  of  the  sultanate  of  Witu  offered  a  far  more 
convenient  basis  for  the  building  up  and  combination  of  an 
expedition  than  the  unquiet  state  of  affairs  in  Zanzibar  and  on 
the  East  African   coast,  Avhere   the  Imperial  action    might   at 


K'^iV'-' 


20 


.\7-:ir  Lu:u'r  ax  umik  afhica. 


au}'  moment  be  cum])elle(l  to  thrust  aside  the  interests  ol'  the 
German  Emin  Paslia  Expedition.  If,  on  m_y  arrival,  I  should 
find  it  practicable  to  carr_v  out  my  great  \yish  of  leading  the 
expedition  through  the  disturbed  territory,  I  could,  even  then, 
have  my  whole  troo])  carried  across  from  Witu  to  Dar-es- 
Salam  or  Bagamoyo. 

Accordingly,  I  connnunicated  by  telegrai^h  with  Lieuti'nant- 
Captain  l>ust  in  Aden,  and  sent  him  corresponding  instructions 


Lieutbnaxt-Captain  Kust. 


through  Herr  von  Tiedemann,  in  the  first  place  to  lead  the 
hundred  Somalis  across  to  Witu,  and  to  proceed  to  drill  then) 
Supply  of  ''^'^  ^'^^  nucleus  of  the  troop  I  should  organise.  I 
soldiers      had  received  Jrom  Herr  Fritz  Bley  from  Zanzibar  the 

and  porters,  i*      ■  •         n* 

preliminary  intelligence  that  he  expected  to  be  able 
to  supply  nearly  two  hundred  porters.  I  now  commissioned 
Herr  von  Tiedemann  to  push  forward  the  engaging  of  porters 
as  energetically  as  possible  iuWitu  and  the  surrounding  region, 
in   conjunction  with    Lieutenant-Captain   Rust.      By  the   kind 


nECRUITfXG   PORTERS  ;~DIFFICrL  TIER. 


21 


interventiou  of  the  Witu  Company,  I  procured  au  introduction 
for  these  t^yo  gentlemen  to  its  representative,  Herr  Toeppen,  in 
Lamu  ;  and  thus  I  might  hope,  if  I  could  not  do  it  in  the 
protected  territory,  to  raise  a  troop  here,  which  would  render 
practicable  an  energetic  advance  into  the  interior  of  Atrica. 


Here  vox  Tiedejiaxn. 


For  the  transport  of  my  weapons  to  Eastern  Africa,  the 
Imperial  Commissary  Wissmann  granted  me  ]3ermission  to 
shij)  them  on  board  of  one  <jf  his  steamers,  the  Martha.  I 
could  therefore  expect  to  avoid  the  disagreeables  and  Arms 
diflficulties  that  might  otherwise  arise  from  the  block- '^^pp^'^'"' 
ade  of  the  coast  that  had  been  recently  ordered.  I 'Martha." 
took  it  for  granted  that,  also  in  English  quarters,  there  would 


■')0- 


.v/nr  LiaiiT  ox  dauk  afiiica. 


bf  consideration  ibr  an  expedition  organised  by  a  nation  with 
whirh  tlie  English  were  then,  as  it  seemed,  working  together 
in  a,  iriendly  manner  in  Alrica  ;  the  more  so,  as  we  were 
determined  to  advance  there  in  strict  accordance  with  the 
action  tlie  German  Empire  had  taken. 

After  taking  these  measnres,  I  ]:)roceeded  with  Herr  Oskar 
Borchert  to  Egypt,  in  the  hope  of  there  gaming  some  definite 


JS"- 


OSKAE  BOKCHERT. 


Proceed 
ings  at 
Aden. 


information  as  to  tlie  position  of  Emin  Pasha.  Not  sncceeding 
in  this,  I  went  on  to  Aden,  to  work  personally  at  the  recrnitiug 
of  an  effective  t^omali  or  two,  bnt  especially  to  procure 
camels  for  the  nse  of  the  expedition.  I  reached 
Aden  in  the  third  week  in  March  ;  and  here,  to  my 
great  satisfaction,  I  found  Count  Teleki  and  Herr  von  Hiihnel, 
who  had  just  returned  from  their  expedition  in  Massailand, 
and  gave  me  very  valuable  information  on  the  position  of 
affairs  l)y   Lake  Baringo,  thr(jugh  which   territory  my  course 


LANDING  AT  LAMU  FORBIDDEN.  23 

would  surely  lead  me,  and  concerning  the  regions  northward  of 
the  lake,  especially  Engabot  and  Turkanj.  I  also  had  the 
pleasure,  at  Aden,  of  seeing  and  speaking  to  our  friend  Pro- 
fessor Dr.  Schweinfurth,  who  was  just  returning  from  his 
Arabian  joarney.  On  the  evening  of  March  24th,  Wissmann 
likewise  arrived  at  Aden  from  Cairo  ;  and  after  I  had  arranged 
my  affairs,  we  started,  on  March  25th,  1889,  with  Wissmann 
and  a  few  of  his  gentlemen.  Dr.  BumlUler  and  Herr  Janke,  for 
Zanzibar,  where  we  arrived  on  March  31st,  towards  two 
o'clock  in  the  afternoon. 

Already  during  this  passage  Wissmann  had  shown  me  a 
telegram  from  his  representative  in  Zanzibar,  announcing  that 
Rust  had  landed  my  Somalis  in  Bagamoyo.  I  could  not  make 
up  my  mind  to  accept  the  contents  of  this  telegram  as  correct, 
as  this  proceeding  was  directly  contrary  to  the  instruc-  commence- 


tions   I   had   given   to  Rust.      But,    on   March  31st,  "'^'^tof 

Til  ,,..„.  difficulties 

immediately   on    my  landing   m   Zanzibar  from   the  and 
Mendoza,  I  received  the  necessary  explanation  through  *'^°"^^^^- 


Herr  Fritz  Bley,  and  this  explanation,  at  the  same  time,  threw  a 

hard  light  upon  the  prospect  of  the  things  that  awaited  me  in 

Zanzibar.     I  found  that,  although  Lieutenant-Captain  Rust  had 

at  Aden  asked  for  tickets  to  Lamu  for  himself  and  the  Somalis, 

and  had  duly  obtained  them  from  the  British  India  Steam 

Navigation  Company  at  that  place,  the  agents  of  the  company 

had  nevertheless  forbidden  the  disembarkation  of  the  people  at 

Lamu.     The  steamer  of  the  British  India  line  had  been  obliged 

to  turn  round  in  front  of  the  harbour  of  Lamu,  and  had  gone 

with  my  people  to  Zanzibar.     There,  probably  at  the 

instigation  of  the  English  representatives,  the  Sultan  prohibition 

of  Zanzibar  had  likewise  opposed  the  disembarkation  °  ^''°^*^®' 

of  the  Somalis,  and  thus  it  had  become  necessary  to  carry  them 

across  to  Bagamoyo.     I  also  heard,  at  the  same  time,  that  the 

Sultan  of  Zanzibar  was  determined  to  forbid  me  the  passage 

through  Lamu,  and  to  prevent  my  taking  it ;   and  by  this,  as 

it  seemed,  the  Tana  route  was  lost  to  me.     As,  moreover,  the 

whole  blockaded  territory,  German  as  well    as  English,  was 

closed  against  me,  there  seemed  to  be  no  access  to  the  interior 


24  XEW  LIGHT   OX  DARK  AFRICA. 

for  the  German  Emin  Pasha  Expedition  from  Delagoa  Bay  to 
the  Juba  Islands,  and  I  could  not  help  seeing  that  the  position 
for  me  in  Zanzibar  was  much  more  difficult  than  m)'  worst 
forebodings  in  Germany  had  allowed  me  to  expect. 

On  the  following  day  I  resolved  personally  to  inspect  the 

position  at  Lamu,  and  perhaps  also  beyond  it,  on  the  Somali 

coast,    which   in   case    of   need    might   be    brought    into   the 

question ;  and  on  April  2nd,  on  board  a  Sultan  steamer  which 

.„   , .    happened  to  be  navigating  in  those  waters,  and  had 

Difficulties        ^^  °  "  1        -r>   •   •   1     T-i  A   '  • 

with  the  meanwhile  been  chartered  by  the  British  East  Airican 
Company,  I  went  away  in  company  with  Lieutenant- 
Captain  Rust  and  Herr  Friedrich  Schroeder  towards  the 
north.  I  had  previously  instructed  Herr  Fritz  Bley  to  take 
action  in  my  name  against  the  British  East  India  Steam  Navi- 
gation Company  for  breach  of  their  contract  to  land  my 
Somalis  at  Lamu,  laying  the  damages  at  ^15,000,  or  300,000 
marks. 

When  I  arrived  in  my  Sultan  steamer,  the  Kiloa,  at 
Mombas,  I  was  informed  by  Mr.  Buchanan,  the  representative 
of  the  British  East  Africa  Company,  that  although  I  had  taken 
passage  for  Lamu,  the  steamer  must  not  touch  at  the  harbour 
there,  unless  I  gave  my  word  of  honour  that,  in  the  event 
Vexatious  of  the  ship's  running  in  there,  which  would  only  be 
restrictions.  fQj.  ^  fg^  hours,  I  would  uot  go  ou  shore  at  Lamu. 
Willingly  or  not,  I  found  myself  obliged  to  give  this  pledge, 
because  I  still  had  the  hope  of  having  a  short  talk  on  board 
with  my  representative  at  Lamu,  Herr  von  Tiedemann,  who  had 
gone  to  that  place  a  few  days  before  in  the  Barawa,  and  of  thus 
giving  him  new  instructions.  It  happened  as  I  expected  ;  and 
besides  Herr  von  Tiedemann,  I  saw  at  Lamu,  though  only 
hurriedly,  Herr  Kurt  Toeppen  and  Herr  Gustav  Denhardt. 
AYith  Herr  Toeppen  I  arranged  that  he  should  endeavour,  for  an 
adequate  indemnification,  privately  to  procure  for  me,  through 
Engage-  ^"^  ^"^^^^  portcrs  for  the  German  Emin  Pasha  Expedi- 
"orter°s^  *^°°-  ^  ^i^hed  to  have  these  porters  sent  to  Lamu.  I 
requested  Herr  von  Tiedemann  to  give  me  information 
concerning  the  bays  and  landing-places  northward  of  Lamu. 


ATTEMPTED    LAXDIXG    AT   .UERKA.  2r) 

After  this  had  been  done,  our  vessel  steamed  out  aoahi,  and 
we  ran  to  the  Somali  coast  to  Barawa,  Merka,  and  Mogdishu. 
Before  each  of  these  places  we  la}'  at  anchor  for  some  days  ; 
but  the  Arab  administration  there  was  so  weak  and  cowardl)', 
and  perhaps,  also,  so  malicious  towards  the  Europeans  resident 
in  Zanzibar,  that  until  then  it  had  been  quite  an  unusual  thing 
for  the   captains   of  the   shi])s  that  ran   iu,  or  for  tlieir  super- 


Feitz  Blet. 


cargoes,  to  go  on  shore.  The  dealers  used  to  come  on  board 
the  ships  and  do  their  business.  After  submitting  to  this 
treatment  at  Lamu,  I  determined  on  my  own  responsi-  Attmpt  to 
bility  to  make  an  attempt  at  landing  at  Merka.  With  ^erka 
Lieutenant-Captain  Rust  I  passed  in  a,  canoe  through -b^"*"-*- 
the  somewhat  formidable  breakers.  But  when  we  came  to  land, 
there  arose  such  a  tumult  on  the  beach,-to  which  was  added  an 
official  order  from  the  Arab  governor  commanding  us  to  turn 
Ijack,— that   we,  who   were    only   armed   with  revolvers,  were 


26  yEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

obliged,  whether  we  liked  it  or  no,  to  abandon  our  design  of 
getting  a  nearer  view  of  the  circumstances  of  the  place,  so  far 
as  they  concerned  our  expedition. 

Thereupon  I  betook  myself  back  to  Zanzibar  ;  and  here  fresh 
events  had  occurred,  that  rendered  the  successful  accomplish- 
ment of  our  undertaking  more  and  more  improbable.  Contrary 
to  the  express  instructions  I  had  given  in  Europe,  my  hunting 
Vexations  weapons  had  been  shipped  from  Antwerp  by  the  North 
at  zanzibar.Qgj-j^g^Q  Lloyd  to  Aden,  and  transhipped  from  thence 
to  the  British  India  line.  By  this  line  they  had  arrived  in 
Zanzibar  while  I  was  on  the  Somali  coast,  and,  in  pursuance  of 
a  literal  interpretation  of  the  blockade  regulations,  had  been  at 
once  seized  by  the  English  Admiral  Fremantle.  As  the  weapons 
had  been  marked  by  the  firm  which  consigned  them  to  me,  not 
as  "  ammunition,"  but  as  "  merchandise,"  the  British  India 
Company  also  assumed  an  attitude  as  if  it  were  pursuing  an 
action  against  me  for  £15,000,  or  300,000  marks,  damages. 

Now  I  knew  that  my  real  weapons  of  war  and  the  Reming- 
tons which  I  was  to  take  to  Emin  Pasha  were  likewise  lying  at 
Telegraphic  Aden.  There  was  a  pressing  danger  that  these  also 
tions^witii  ■would  be  carried  on  board  the  British  India  line  and 
Aden.  seized  at  Zanzibar.  I  immediately  put  myself  in  active 
telegraphic  communication  with  the  German  Consulate  at  Aden, 
to  procure  the  transhipment  of  these  weapons  of  war  to  one  of 
Wissmann's  steamers,  preferably  to  the  Martha,  which  was 
expected  from  Hamburg.  The  captain  of  the  Martha,  Freiherr 
von  Gravenreuth,  declared,  however,  to  the  Consulate  at 
Aden,  that  the  ship  was  full,  and  could  not  take  my  chests  of 
arms.  Then  by  means  of  the  telegraph,  in  which  Wissmann 
supported  me,  I  endeavoured  to  get  my  weapons  on  board 
the  Harmonie,  which  was  expected  later.  But,  to  my  painful 
surprise,  I  received,  in  answer  to  my  last  telegram,  an  intima- 
tion from  the  German  Consul  at  Aden  that  the  arms  had  been 
Useless  shipped  on  board  the  British  India  line.  I  now  tried 
help  at  °^  at  the  German  General  Consulate  in  Zanzibar  to  pre- 
zanzibar.  ^gjj^  ^j^g  seizure  of  this  part  also  of  my  equipment,  by 
showing  my  telegraphic  correspondence  with  Aden,  and  thus 


OPPOSITION  FROM  THE  SULTAN.  27 

proving  how  it  was  against  my  express  instructions  that  the 
consignment  of  arms  had  been  put  on  board  the  English 
Zanzibar  line.  But  I  found  it  impossible  to  get  any  kind  of 
support  here ;  and  thus  this  part  likewise  of  my  store  of 
weapons  fell  into  English  hands  so  soon  as  it  got  to  Zanzibar, 
and  was  first  deposited  on  board  an  English  ship  of  war,  and 
afterwards  sent  back  to  Aden  by  order  of  the  British  Admiral. 

On  my  return  to  Zanzibar,  a  second  great  disappointment 
awaited  me.  Zanzibar  had  always  been  the  traditional  furnish- 
ing-place,  with  regard  to  porters,  for  all  expeditions  proceeding 
from  Middle  Eastern  Africa  into  the  interior.  Here  Application 
the  Pagasis  are  engaged,  and  until  lately  there  was  Mreponers 
not  an  expedition  that  could  do  without  calling  at  ^^"^^^'^*^*- 
Zanzibar.  Accordingly  I  lost  no  time  in  making  the  usual 
application  to  the  German  Consulate,  with  the  request  that  the 
permission  might  be  obtained  for  me  to  hire  porters  there  from 
the  Sultan  of  Zanzibar — a  mere  formality,  the  permission  being 
granted  to  every  expedition  as  a  matter  of  course.  Consider- 
ing my  old  relations  with  the  Arabs,  it  could  not  be  diflRcult  for 
me  to  procure  porters  in  Zanzibar,  and  in  fact  several  hundreds 
of  persons  had  already  offered  themselves  to  me  in  that 
capacity.  When  I  returned  to  Zanzibar  on  April  17th,  1  heard, 
to  my  astonishment,  that  no  answer  had  been  received  to  my 
application  to  the  Consulate  ;  and  at  the  same  time  I  was 
informed  that  the  Sultan  had  caused  it  to  be  made  The  suitan's 
known  that  every  black  man  who  took  part  in  the  *^'^^**' 
expedition  should  have  his  head  struck  off  at  whatever  time 
he  might  return  to  Zanzibar,  and  that  I  must  not  reckon  on 
engaging  porters. 

To  meet  these  difficulties,  Herr  Fritz  Bley,  who  was  at  that 
time  my  representative  at  Zanzibar,  had,  very  judiciously,  on 
his  own  responsibility,  cast  about  for  a  steamer  for  us ;  and  he 
had  succeeded,  by  tihe  intervention  of  the  Indian  Sewa  Hadji, 
in  securing  one  for  me,  namely  the  Neoera,  from  the  Bombay 
Steam  Navigation  Company.  I  had  originally  wished  to 
work  with  sailing  boats,  but,  in  view  of  these  quite  unex- 
pected and   entirely  unusual   hindrances,  it   was    exceedingly 


28  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

likely  that  the  possession  of  a  steamer  would  be  necessary,  if  I 
was  to  take  up  the  contest  at  all.  ^o  with  a  heavy  heart  I 
The  resolved  to  disburse  the  large  sum  required  for  the 

ch^rtertd  at  chartering  of  the  Neoera;  and  this  resolution  naturally 
heavy  cost,  involved  a  very  important  change  in  my  plan  of  or- 
ganising the  expedition.  As  I  was  compelled  to  spend  nearly 
75,000  marks  (£3,750)  only  to  secure  the  landing  on  the  coast, 
— a  thing  for  which,  as  a  rule,  every  other  expedition  received 
facilities  on  all  sides, — I  could  no  longer  hope  to  carry  out 
an  expedition  estimated  to  consist  of  a  hundred  soldiers  and 
six  hundred  porters. 

Accordingly,  already  in  April  I  made  up  my  mind  to  dismiss 
at  least  two-thirds  of  the  Somali  force  ;  and  I  now  began  to 
contemplate  an  expedition  of  a  hundred  and  fifty  to  two  hundred 
porters. 

But  fate  seemed  bent  on  forbidding  the  execution  even  of 
this  design.  The  following  weeks  were  characterised  by  efforts 
on  my  part,  if  not  to  recover  all  my  arms,  at  least  to  release 
my  hunting  weapons  from  the  English  blockade  ;  and  on  the 
other  hand,  by  diplomatic  intervention  of  the  Empire,  to  pro- 
cure access  to  Lamu.  With  this  object  in  view  1  telegraphed 
Endeavour  ou  April  29th  to  the  Emin  Pasha  committee  in  Berlin, 
the'poreign  requesting  that  an  application  might  be  made  to  the 
Office.  Foreign  Office,  to  procure  for  me,  from  the  English, 
permission  to  proceed  to  Witu.  After  waiting  for  some  days 
without  receiving  news,  I  renewed  the  application  on  May 
6th;  and  on  the  10th  I  begged  for  mediation  that  my  confis- 
cated arms  might  be  given  up.  On  May  13th  I  received  the 
reply,  "  Foreign  Office  refuses  all  mediation  and  support." 
Thus  I  was  cut  off  from  all  further  hope  in  this  direction.  I 
was  now  thrown  back  entirely  on  my  own  resources,  and  had 
DiffioiiitieB-*°  P"*  *^^  question  seriously  to  myself,  whether  I  really 
confiscation  believed  I  could  carry  out  the  expedition  under  these 

of  weapons.     .  -^r 

Circumstances,  or  not.  My  weapons  were  confiscated, 
with  the  exception  of  the  muzzle-loaders  and  breech-loaders, 
which  Wissmann  had  formerly  bought  for  his  section  of  the 
expedition,  and  had  handed  over  to  me  in  Berlin.     These  were 


REPORT  TO   THE   C02rMlTTEE  AT  HOME.  29 

lying  at  the  depots  of  the  Imperial  Commissariat  at  Bagamoyo 
and  Dar-es-Salam.  But  it  was  still  a  question  whether  the 
delivery  of  these  weapons  would  not  also  be  refused  from 
Berlin.  Such  was  the  condition  of  the  affair  in  the  middle  of 
May.  I  expressed  my  opinion  of  the  general  position,  in  a 
report  from  Zanzibar  to  the  German  Emin  Pasha  committee, 
■dated  May  17th,  from  which  I  give  the  following  extract: — 

"  If  the  Imperial  Government  did  not  wish  that  the  German 
Emin  Pasha  Expedition  should  be  undertaken,  it  should  have 
forbidden  the  project,  which  it  was  the  more  bound  to  do,  as 
it  had  from  the  commencement  approved  of  the  Extract  of 
movement,  and  indeed  had  set  it  going.  Moreover,  Emin'pasha 
we  have  at  once  informed  the  Imperial  Chancellor  of ''°"™""®^- 
each  of  our  resolutions.  But  to  have  allowed  the  development 
of  the  project  to  the  present  point,  and  now  to  permit  its  being 
hindered  under  every  imaginable  pretext,  amid  the  derision  of 
all  the  nations  represented  here,  and  even  with  the  co-operation 
of  the  German  authorities,  is  certainly  a  very  peculiar  method 
of  advancing  German  interests  and  German  honour  on  the 
shores  of  the  Indian  Ocean,  and  a  curious  application  of  the 
*  Civis  Romanus  sum '  of  which  Prince  Bismarck  formerly 
spoke  in  the  Imperial  Diet."  In  conclusion,  I  explained  my 
position,  in  view  of  our  difficulties,  in  the  same  report,  in  the 
following  manner : — 

"  But  in  face  of  the  difficulties  in  every  direction,  in  face 
of  the  intrigues  with  which  we  have  to  fight  daily,  all  of  us 
here,  I  am  proud  to  say,  are  only  the  more  firmly  resolved  to 
carry  on  the  undertaking  to  the  utmost  verge  of  possibility. 
The  blockade  extends  from  2°  10'  to  10°  28'  south  latitude, 
and  there  are  still  points  of  access  enough,  which  the  jj^tg^^jj^^. 
European  powers,  Germany  and  England,  have  no  Uon  to 
legitimate  pretext  for  closing  against  the  German 
Emin  Pasha  Expedition.  If  our  weapons  are  permanently 
confiscated,  we  shall  procure  compensation.  We  shall  certainly 
be  powerless  against  violence  by  sea.  But  once  in  the  interior 
we  shall,  for  the  time,  be  masters  of  the  situation." 

The  report  concludes  with  the  expressed  conviction :  "  If 


30  .V^ir  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

the  political  circles  in  Germany  and  we  here  work  on  together, 
resolutely  and  unbewildered,  in  this  persuasion,  we  shall  accom- 
plish our  purpose,  as  there  is  a  providential  Power  that  rules 
over  human  affairs.  In  this  firm  conviction  I  remain,  with 
perfect  esteem,  etc." 

Thus  the  resolution  was  firmly  upheld,  under  no  circum- 
stances to  abandon  the  expedition  until  mechanical  obstacles 
rendered  a  further  advance  entirely  impossible. 

Meanwhile,  in  the  beginning  of  May,  the  Necera  had  arrived 
Thesteamerat  Zanzibar.  The  steamer  proved  to  be  a  very  sturdy 
"Neoera."  ^^^^le  craft,  that  could  make  her  eleven  miles  an  hour, 
and  I  considered  her  of  the  first  importance  for  the  prosecution 
of  our  enterprise.  By  means  of  the  Necera,  if  it  came  to  the 
worst,  I  had  the  power  of  bringing  weapons  from  some  other 
part  of  the  Indian  Ocean,  and,  before  all  other  things,  it  became 
possible  for  me  to  collect  porters  on  the  coast,  and  event- 
ually to  evade  the  blockade.  In  the  first  instance,  I  put  the 
little  craft  in  the  service  of  the  Imperial  commissariat,  as  the 
Wissmann  steamers  had  not  yet  arrived,  and  it  was  especially 
important,  before  all  things,  to  get  my  muzzle-loaders  and  my 
ammunition  away  from  Bagamoyo  and  Dar-es-Salam.  I  also 
depended  especially,  for  the  enlisting  of  porters,  on  Bagamoyo, 
where  Lieutenant-Captain  Rust,  who  commanded  our  Somalis 
there,  had  already  established  relations  for  this  purpose  with 
the  French  mission. 

On  May  17th  I  crossed  over  for  the  first  time  to  Bagamoyo, 
in  the  Necera ;  and  during  this  passage,  as  happened  to  me 
repeatedly  during  the  expedition,  I  suddenly  felt  pene- 
Bagamoyo,  trated  With  a  profound  certamty  that  the  undertaking 
was  destined  to  be  put  into  practice  in  spite  of  all 
difficulties,  and,  so  far  as  we  were  concerned,  to  be  accom- 
plished. During  the  following  days  I  took  some  hundreds  of 
Wissmann's  troops,  with  Wissmann  himself,  across  to  Dar-es- 
Salam,  and  obtained  from  him  permission  to  take  away  a 
hundred  muzzle-loaders  and  fifty  breech-loaders  from  his 
dep6ts,  where  they  lay. 

When  I  returned  to  Bagamoyo,  a  few  days  afterwards,  I 


DETERMINATION   TO  PROCEED.  31 

received  the  very  agreeable  information  that  Brother  Oskar,  of 
the  French  mission,  had  about  sixty  Central-African  porters 
ready  for  me.  Besides  the  breech-loaders  and  the  hundred 
muzzle-loaders,  the  manager  of  the  depot  in  Dar-es- 
Salam  had  delivered  to  Herr  Oskar  Borchert  seventeen  of  the 
repeating  weapons,  for  which  Wissmann  at  Bagamoyo  ^^p^*^''""^- 
very  kindly  gave  me  three  thousand  ball  cartridges.  I  de- 
posited all  these  stores  of  weapons  in  the  houses  inhabited  by 
the  Somalis  at  Bagamoyo,  and  on  Sunday,  May  26th,  betook 
myself  back  to  Zanzibar  to  transport  my  tents  and  other 
equipments  from  thence  to  Bagamoyo.  I  took  seventy-three 
Somalis  across  with  me  to  Zanzibar,  and  dismissed  them  there. 

Here,  in  the  meanwhile,  Herr  Fritz  Bley  and  Herr  Borchert 
had  practically  concluded  the  re-packing  of  the  loads, 
dimmishmg  their  numbers.     From  Herr  Bley,  how-  of  Herr 
ever,  I  was  obliged  on  the  following  morning  to  part,     ^^' 
as  the  state  of  his  health  urgently  necessitated  his  return  to 
Europe,  and   it   was   obvious  that   for   undertakings  such  as 
we  had  in  view  only  sound  and  vigorous  constitutions  were 
available. 

I  remained  in  Zanzibar  until  Saturday,  June  1st ;  and  this 
week  was  important  in  two  directions  for  the  carrying  out  of 
the  Emin  Pasha  Expedition.  On  the  one  hand,  we  commenced 
negotiations  during  this  week  with  Herr  Gasch,  who  stood  in 
communication  with  the  southern  places,  and  received  ^^^^^^ 
advice  from  him,  concerning  the  further  procuring  of  ceedmg  de- 

.        rr,  ■     -r->  Ti /r  1  •  ternuiiedon 

porters,  perhaps  m  Tungi  Bay,  or  Mozambique,  or 
Delagoa  Bay.  Through  these  conferences  there  arose  in 
Zanzibar  the  settled  conviction  that  I  should,  in  the  first  place, 
go  with  the  Necera  to  Mozambique,  to  get  porters  from  thence  ; 
and  this  conviction  was  remarkably  useful  to  us  during  the 
next  week  in  the  accomplishment  of  my  real  plan.  For,  though 
I  had  not  myself  made  any  communications  in  reference  to 
it,  this  opinion  was  held,  in  a  certain  degree,  by  the  com- 
manding admirals  in  Zanzibar.  On  the  other  hand,  during  the 
concluding  week  in  May,  I  entered  into  personal  communica- 
tion with  Admiral  Fremantle,  with  the  view  of  effecting,  at 


32  NEW  LIGHT  OX  DARK  AFRICA. 

least,  the  delivering  up  of  my  hunting  weapons ;  and  in  this  I 
succeeded. 

I  myself  went  on  board  the  British  flagship,  and  had  a 
lengthy  conference  with  Admiral  Fremantle,  which  threw  a 
clear  light  on  the  situation  of  affairs.  A  few  days  previously, 
the  Deputy  Commander  in  Zanzibar  had  announced  to  me,  in 
Conference  the  abseuce  of  Fremantle,  that  I  had  no  right  to  put 
Admiral  ^^ith  the  Necera,  although  she  did  not  in  general  fall 
Fremantle.  ^ndgr  the  blockade  regulations,  into  any  place  that  was 
under  blockade,  especially  Mompas,  whither  I  had  wished  to  go 
to  have  a  conference  with  Fremantle.  I  asked  Fremantle  what 
were  the  reasons  and  motives  of  this  peculiar  order,  and  he 
declared  to  me,  in  the  plainest  possible  manner,  that  I  was 
inconvenient  to  the  English  in  Eastern  Africa,  and  might  there- 
fore not  reckon  upon  enjoying,  with  their  sanction,  the  same 
right  that  any  one  else  would  have.  Twice  he  openly  gave  me 
to  understand  that,  with  respect  to  me,  it  was  a  state  of  war — 
"  C'est  la  guerre  !  "  If  ihis  did  not  suit  me,  I  should  send  a 
despatch  to  my  Government  in  Berlin  ;  a  despatch  from  Berlin 
to  London,  and  from  London  to  him,  would  completely  alter 
the  state  of  things.  This  he  explained  to  me  repeatedly.  He 
deplored  all  this  condition  of  things,  but  must  obey  his  instruc- 
The  Ad  ^ions.  Nevertheless,  at  the  conclusion  he  promised  me 
mirai's       not  to  come  in  my  way  outside  the  line  of  blockade, 

declaration.        ,  i-rv^       i   ■         •        i  /.     n        -»-r 

and  to  put  no  dimculties  m  the  way  or  the  Necera,  in 
case  I  wished  to  send  her  to  Lamu,  provided  that  neither  I  nor 
contraband  of  war  was  on  board. 

"  C'est  la  guerre  !  "  With  these  words  Fremantle  had  also 
indicated  to  me  my  position  in  the  affair.  If  I  found  no  legal 
protection  it  behoved  me,  in  carrying  out  the  commission 
entrusted  to  me,  to  try  how  much  I  could  accomplish  without 
it.  I  considered  it  more  consonant  with  our  national  honour 
and  our  national  interests  to  perish,  on  the  sea  or  on  the  land, 
Reference  with  my  whole  expedition,  than  to  retreat  before  this 
mittee IT"  paltry  mass  of  obstacles  and  intrigues.  To  do  this 
iiome.  ^j^^j^  ^  gQQ^j  conscience,  it  was  certainly  necessary  that 
I  should  have  another  expression  of  authority  from  the  body 


DEFINITE  START  FOR  DAR-ES-8ALAM.  33 

whose  commission  I  held,  the  German  Emin  Pasha  committee. 
It  happened  fortunately  that,  on  my  arrival  at  Zanzibar,  I  had 
found  a  telegram  waiting  for  me,  asking  for  information  con- 
cerning the  state  of  the  expedition  and  our  condition  as  i-egarded 
weapons.  I  telegraphed  back  that  the  arms  had  been  replaced, 
and  that  I  hoped  to  be  able  to  start  in  four  weeks.  Then,  on 
May  30th,  I  received  the  welcome  reply  :  "  All  right !  Authority 
forward  !  Hofmann."  I  had  now  what  I  wanted,  and  *"  a*va"oe- 
was  resolved  to  delay  no  longer,  but  to  extricate  myself  at  once 
from  this  state  of  thraldom  in  the  blockaded  territory  with  the 
means  that  were  still  at  my  disposal,  however  limited  they 
might  be,  and  to  seek  in  a  freer  field  the  scene  of  further 
development  of  events.  I  was  now  determined  to  lead  my 
expedition  northward  round  the  line  of  the  blockade,  and  to 
seek  more  suitable  points  of  support  for  the  advance,  in  Witu 
and  on  the  Tana. 

On  June  1st,  in  company  with  Herr  Oskar  Borchert,  and 
with  Herr  Friedenthal,  who  had  been  engaged  expressly  for 
packing  the  cases,  I  crossed  over  to  Bagamoyo,  having  Departure 
my  hunting  weapons  and  the  other  paraphernalia  of  ^°™  ^^f *' 
the  expedition  on  board.  The  whole  of  the  following  Dar-es- 
day,  and  on  June  3rd,  I  was  shipping  my  arms  and 
ammunition  in  Bagamoyo,  and  on  the  4th  I  caused  Lieutenant- 
Captain  Rust  to  take  into  actual  service  the  porters  enlisted 
through  Brother  Oskar.  On  June  5th  I  embarked  all  my 
forces,  and  on  the  morning  of  the  7th  we  steamed  out  of  the 
harbour  of  Bagamoyo,  bending  our  course  towards  Dar-es- 
Salam.  In  Bagamoyo  it  was  thought  that  I  should  lie  for  a 
week  at  Dar-es-Salam,  to  procure  additional  porters,  and  then 
betake  myself  to  the  south.  I  should  indeed  have  been  very 
glad  to  get  more  porters  at  Dar-es-Salam,  as  I  had  procured 
only  fifty-three  men  in  all  at  Bagamoyo.  I  feared,  however, 
that  by  longer  tarrying  in  Dar-es-Salam  I  should  risk  every- 
thing without  a  proper  equivalent,  and  consequently  contented 
myself  with  hiring  some  fifteen  more  men  there  on  June  8th ; 
and  already,  on  the  morning  of  the  9th,  a  Sunday,  I  proceeded 

onward  from  Dar-es-Salam. 

3 


34 


.V/-:il'   IJilllT   ox  UAUK    AFIHrA. 


Hen-en  Teramiii,  Maercker,  Kilsel,  ami  liabe  had  helped  lUf 
with  all  their  mii;hl,  in  the  kindest  manner.  I  took  leave  ot 
them  at  eight  (/cluck  in  the  murning,  on  the  (jna)'  at  Dar-es- 
Salam,  and  shaped  my  conrse  at  hrst  towards  the  sonth,  to  get 
sai'ely  clear  of  the  entire  blockade  territory.  The  gnns  of  the 
station  sainted  the  departing  ^^(^lVl■a,  and  we  took  leave  of  onr 
countrymen  on  the  coast  with  a  return  salvo  IVom  our  rej)eating 

rifles. 

It  was  a  nhirions  moment  when  the  outlines  of  the  islands 


'"1 


,•  .,._^;sX 


The  "Neosra"  running  out  prom  Dae-es-Salam. 


of  Dar-es-Salam  faded  away  behind  us.  A  stift'  breeze  came  up 
Hopes  for  from  the  north-west,  and  the  sea  was  strongly  agitated, 
the  future,  jj^g  future,  indeed,  lay  before  us  shrouded  in  uncer- 
tainty, even  in  darkness ;  but  the  sentiment  that  moved  us 
three — Lieutenant-Captain  Rust,  Oskar  Borchert,  and  myself— 
at  that  instant,  Avas  certainly  one  of  relief,  of  release  from  a 
heavy  pressure,  the  feeling  of  liberty,  of  movement.  If  we 
made  our  way  hito  tlie  free  ocean,  we  could  shape  our  plans  as 
we  chose,  and  had  not  to  apprehend  being  crushed  unceremoni- 
ously by  measures  of  brute  force.     It  was  only  on  the  preceding 


THE  PASSAGE  TO  KWAIHU  BAY.  35 

evening  that  I  had  disclosed  my  definite  plans  to  the  captain 
of  the  Necera  and  to  Lieutenant-Captain  Rust.  I  was  going 
to  hold  a  northward  course  outside  of  the  islands  of  Zan- 
zibar and  Pemba,  and  endeavour  to  gain  Kwaihu  Bay,  pianofpro- 
that  lies  north  of  the  blockade  territory.  Technically,  needing, 
this  undertakmg  was  no  easy  one,  for  Kwaihu  Bay  is  blocked 
from  the  outside  by  reefs,  and  generally  cannot  be  entered 
without  a  pilot's  help.  We  had  naturally  not  been  able  to 
procure  a  pilot  in  Zanzibar,  for  this  would  have  frustrated 
the  whole  plan. 

But  it  was  necessary  that  I  should  run  this  risk,  if  I  did 
not  wish  to  give  up  the  expedition  as  such.  So  we  took  the 
responsibility  on  ourselves.  After  we  had  run  for  ten  ^  devious 
miles  to  the  south-east,  the  course  was  altered  towards  "''""*• 
the  east,  in  which  direction,  by  six  o'clock  in  the  evening,  we 
had  steamed  about  fifty  miles.  Then  we  shifted  our  course  to 
north-north-east,  and  in  the  night  ran  past  Zanzibar  and  Pemba, 
steering  directly  for  Lamu.  Till  four  in  the  afternoon  we 
steamed  on  through  a  very  rough  sea,  till  about  the  latitude 
of  Lamu,  and  from  thence  we  held  on  to  the  north-west,  shap- 
ing our  course  for  Kwaihu.  Zanzibar  and  the  whole  blockade 
were  far  out  of  sight  astern. 

On  the  evening  of  the  10th  our  expedition  was  near  coming 
to  a  sudden  end.  I  was  sitting  after  supper  on  the  quarter- 
deck, over  a  cigar,  with  Lieutenant-Captain  Rust  and  Alarm  of 
Oskar  Borchert,  when  suddenly  a  bright  glare  of  fire  ^''^■ 
shone  from  the  saloon,  where  all  our  powder  and  ammunition 
were  stored.  The  heavy  rolling  and  pitching  of  the  vessel  had 
overthrown  the  petroleum  lamp,  which  exploded  about  three 
feet  from  the  first  powder  barrel.  We  rushed  down  at  once 
with  the  captain  and  engineer,  caught  up  a  number  of  woollen 
blankets,  which  we  threw  upon  the  fire,  making  a  kind  of 
package  of  the  whole,  and  threw  the  flaming  mass  overboard. 
Except  a  few  burns  on  Rust's  hand,  there  were  no  casualties 
to  record.  I  took  this  as  a  fortunate  omen,  and  a  complete 
confidence  in  the  further  fortunes  of  the  expedition  filled  my 
heart. 


36  ^!EW  LIGHT   ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

On  the  morning  of  the  11th  we  awoke  with  the  impression 
that  we  were  in  the  latitude  of  Kwaihu  Bay.  We  skirted  an 
A  stormy  island  which,  according  to  the  marine  charts,  corre- 
passage.  gponded  to  Kwaihu  Bay.  There  was  a  heavy  sea,  the 
wind  whistled  from  the  south-west,  heavy  rollers  broke  con- 
tinually over  our  little  boat,  which  threatened  every  moment 
to  capsize.  The  chests  were  thrown  violently  to  and  fro,  and 
my  people  groaned  with  sea-sickness  and  alarm.  Till  nearly 
eleven  o'clock  we  were  sounding  and  tacking.  Then  I  had  the 
gig  lowered,  to  attempt  a  landing  through  the  roaring  breakers. 
But  the  boat  was  nearly  overturned,  and  we  had  to  get  it  back 
on  board  quickly,  or  we  should  have  lost  it.  An  imperfect 
observation  of  the  sun's  altitude  at  noon  indicated  that  we  were 
about  1°  south  latitude,  conse'quently  thirteen  miles  north  of 
the  Hohenzollern  harbour,  or  about  sixty  miles  from  Kw.aihu 
Bay,  and  in  sight  of  one  of  the  Dundas  Islands.  So  strongly 
had  the  coast  current  carried  us  towards  the  north. 

We  steamed  at  full  speed  towards  the  south-west  until  seven 
in  the  evening,  making  only  seven  (German)  miles  against 
Harassing  the  monsoon  ;  and  we  had,  beyond  this,  to  reckon  for 
navigation. g^jljQ^^  three  miles  of  leeway  towards  the  north;  so 
that  our  actual  progress  on  our  course  comprised  only  four 
(German)  miles.  By  seven  in  the  evening  we  had  made  about 
forty  miles.  From  that  time  we  went  at  half-speed,  to  avoid 
getting  into  the  English  blockade,  until  four  in  the  morning, 
whenwe  put  on  full  speed  again.  After  long  soundings,  etc., 
and  observation  of  the  sun's  altitude  at  noon,  we  simply  found 
ourselves  in  about  the  same  position  as  yesterday.  So  greatly 
had  we  still  under-estimated  the  set  of  the  stream  towards  the 
north. 

Now  matters  became  really  serious,  for  a  want  of  water 
began  to  make  itself  felt.  At  Zanzibar  I  had  ordered  the 
Scarcity  of  ^^P^^-in  to  take  about  a  week's  supply  of  water  on 
water  on    board,  and  he  had  done  so  :  but  he  had  only  reckoned 

board.  j?       i  •  i  •    , 

tor  his  own  ship  s  company,  and  had  not  allowed  for  the 
people  I  was  to  bring.  In  Dar-es-Salam  I  had  endeavoured  to 
supply  this  want.    It  had,  however,  been  impossible  to  get  large 


DOUBTS   AND   DIFFICULTIES. 


37 


quantities  of  water  on  board ;  and  thus,  in  the  expectation  of 
being  in  Kwaihn  Baj-  in  three  daj's  at  the  latest,  I  had  steamed 
awa)"  with  an  insufficient  store  of  water — undoubtedl}"  a  great 
mistake  in  administration.  The  captain  began  to  lose  courage. 
Then   I   made   arrangements  for  catching  the  rain  water,  and 


■■Is  KwAiHU  Peak  in  Sight.'" 

away  we  went  again,  under  press  of  steam,  to  the  south-west, 
against  a  heavy  sea  and  roaring  wind,  like  yesterday.  Sleep 
was  not  to  be  thought  of,  as  we  were  all  berthed  on  the  after- 
deck  ;  it  was  the  more  impossible,  as  heavy  downpours  of  rain 
wetted  evervthing  through.  We  steamed  at  full  speed  till  lour  hi 
the  morning  ;  then  steered  west  by  north  towards  the  land  and 


38  yEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

sighted— one  of  the  Dundas  islands.  The  captain  was  much 
depressed,  and  demanded  to  go  back  to  Zanzibar.  Accordingly 
I  issued  a  written  instruction  to  him  to  cruise  before 
^tt  the*'  Kwaihu  Bay,  until  he  should  receive  a  different  order 
captain.  ^_^^^  ^^  j  threatened,  if  he  did  not  obey  my  direc- 
tions, to  hold  his  company  answerable  for  the  loss  of  £20,000. 
That  sufficed  for  the  day.  By  dint  of  more  extensive  measures 
I  further  succeeded,  on  this  Thursday  morning,  in  collecting 
and  storing  in  the  tanks  about  1,500  buckets  of  rain  water. 

At  half-past  twelve  we  had  a  gleam  of  sunshine,  and  the 
captain  took  the  sun's  altitude  for  2°  south  latitude,  so  that  we 
must  be  near  our  goal.  At  half-past  one  I  drew  Herr  Borchert's 
attention  to  the  fact  that  I  thought  I  descried  Kwaihu  Peak,  the 
landmark  of  Kwaihu  Island.  Immediately  afterwards  a  very 
heavy  squall  arose,  with  black  rain  clouds,  so  that  everything 
Banger  of  vanished,  and  we  had  hurriedly  to  steer  away  from  the 
shipwreck,  j^nd,  lest  we  should  be  thrown  upon  the  reefs.  At 
four  o'clock  the  captain  came  on  the  after-deck,  and  asked 
me  to  step  on  the  bridge  and  see  if  the  island  opposite  was 
not  Lamu.  I  ithought  it  was,  and  Lieutenant-Captain  Rust 
was  even  more  decidedly  of  the  same  opinion.  We  slowed 
down ;  then,  as  we  imagined,  passed  Manda  Island  northward, 
till  we  thought  we  saw  the  entrance  to  Manda  Bay.  Now  we 
seemed  to  know  where  we  were.  We  were  obliged  to  hold  off 
from  the  shore  because  the  sun  sank.  Through  the  night  we 
cruised  in  sight  of  the  island.  The  next  morning  we  were  to 
go  along  Patta  and  to  Kwaihu  Bay.  In  such  a  mood  as  used  to 
be  mine  in  my  boyish  days  in  anticipation  of  Christmas  Eve, 
I  lay  through  the  night  sleepless  on  my  swaying  chair.  Next 
morning  at  dawn  we  went  on.  Yonder  was  Manda,  yonder 
Patta — now  Sewy  Point  and  Sewy  Spit  and  Kwaihu  Bay  with 
Botteler's  Ledge  must  come.     Sure  enough  there  it 

Doubts  as  ^  .  „         p 

to  our  posi-  was.  But  the  bay  was  obstructed  by  a  barrier  of  reels 
and  by  violent  breakers.  And  what  was  yonder  island 
in  the  middle,  that  was  not  marked  on  the  marine  chart ;  and 
why  did  the  soundings  not  correspond  P  At  twelve  o'clock  the 
solar  observations  showed  us  that  we  were  in  1°  34'  S.  latitude, 


THE  PASSAGE  ACC02IPLISHED.  39 

consequently  twenty-nine  to  thirty  German  miles  northward  of 
Kwaihu  Bay.  The  coast  formations  along  the  Benadirland  are 
so  uniform,  that  such  mistakes  as  happened  to  us  must  not  be 
too  much  wondered  at.  I  believe  we  may  have  had  Fairhead 
before  us  on  this  mournfully  fine  Friday. 

Off  we  went  again,  under  full  steam,  towards  the  south  !  In 
the  evening  we  were  opposite  the  fancied  Lamu,  where  we 
had  cruised  the  night  before.  Next  morning  onward  to  the 
south-west !  And  there  it  rose  before  us.  The  peculiar,  unmis- 
takable Kwaihu  Peak  was  there  at  length,  and  finally  Kwaihu 
Bay  itself !     It  is  impossible  to  picture  the  feeling  of 

•'  fro  Arrival  at 

deep  satisfaction  I  experienced.  It  must  be  remem-  Kwaihu 
bered  how  much  was  at  stake  on  this  occasion.  With  ^^' 
what  derision  we  should  have  been  received,  and  how  kindly  the 
English  blockade  would  have  welcomed  us  if,  as  might  easily 
have  happened,  we  had  stumbled  into  it !  A  slight  accident  to 
our  engines  or  our  screw  might  have  overthrown  everything. 
However,  these  were  cures  passatcB,  and  between  ten  and  eleven 
o'clock  on  Sunday,  June  15th,  we  passed  through  the  breakers 
of  Kwaihu  Bay.  At  eleven  the  Necera  anchored.  Behind 
us  lay  the  breakers  of  Siyu  Spit,  and  before  us,  though  cer- 
tainly at  a  distance  of  five  miles,  the  continent  of  Africa. 
What  very  seldom  happens  to  me  now,  after  these  four  days 
of  exhaustion  and  sleeplessness  I  felt  someAvhat  excited. 

But  there  was  no  time  for  recreation.  We  had  no  boats,  and 
a  fresh  breeze  was  blowing  into  the  bay,  and  more  than  a 
hundred  persons  and  about  twenty  thousand  pounds  of  cargo 
had  to  be  landed.  Consequently,  at  half-past  eleven  I  stepped 
into  the  gig  with  Lieutenant-Captain  Rust,  to  proceed  losiyufor 
to  Siyu  and  secure  people  for  unloading  and  carrying,  """^^t^- 
As  a  precaution  I  took  with  me  the  jolly-boat  with  six  of  my 
soldiers ;  and  it  was  only  towards  three  o'clock  that  we  reached 
the  village  of  Siyu,  on  the  north  side  of  Patta.  We  quickly 
succeeded  in  establishing  friendly  relations.  But  I  learned  that 
dhows  were  only  to  be  had  in  Pasa  from  Buana  Mse,  with  the 
concurrence  of  the  Arab  governor.  Quickly  resolved,  I  sailed 
on   westward,  with   Rust,   in   the    jolly-boat   to   Pasa.     Herr 


40  XEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

Friedenthal,  who  had  meanwhile  arrived  with  the  other  jolly- 
boat,  was  dkected  by  me  to  follow  me  slowly  in  this  second 
boat,  with  ten  soldiers,  and  to  lay  to  in  front  of  Pasa. 

Pasa  is  a  town  of  between  four  and  five  thousand  inhabit- 
ants, with  a  fort  and  an  Arab  garrison.      Hundreds  of  people 
surrounded  us  when  we  were  ceremoniously  ushered  into  the 
Governor's  presence.     At  Pasa  the  sympathies  were  decidedly 
English,  as   Mr.  Mackenzie  had   shortly  before  been 

Our  for-  *  '  •' 

tunes  at  strewiug  gold  around.  The  inhabitants  took  us  for 
Englishmen,  as  the  Necera  sailed  under  the  English 
flag.  I  saw  no  reason  to  undeceive  them  in  this  matter  ;  and 
hajf-an-hour  later  I  sailed  back  with  two  great  dhows  to  the 
Necera,  which  we  reached  towards  seven  o'clock.  Buana  Mse 
had  also  secured  for  me  a  hundred  and  fifty  porters,  whom, 
however,  he  did  not  afterwards  produce. 

That  same  night,  with  the  sea  running  high,  we  succeeded 
in  getting  all  the  contraband  of  war,  powder,  ammunition,  etc., 
into  one  of  the  dhows,  with  twelve  soldiers  to  guard  it.  The 
second  dhow  we  loaded  next  morning  at  daybreak ;  and  as  at 
this  moment  a  third  dhow  ran  up  to  the  steamer,  I  was  now 
Embarka-  ^^'®  **^  embark  all  my  people  at  once.  On  Sunday 
tionofthe  moming  towards  eight  o'clock  we  made  all  clear  for 
leaving  the  Necera.  Indeed,  as  is  usually  the  case,  it 
appeared  at  the  last  moment  that  all  the  things  had  not  been 
got  out  of  the  boat ;  but  as  the  ebb  was  setting  in  fast,  and  1 
would  no  longer  run  the  risk  of  exposing  the  whole  business  to 
the  chance  of  a  coz<jj  de  main  of  the  English,  I  made  up  my 
mind  to  leave  Herr  Friedenthal  behind,  and  to  let  the  re- 
mainder of  the  things  follow  us  on  that  day  or  the  succeeding 
one.  I  should  probably  have  done  this  far  more  zealously  if 
I  had  been  aware  of  what  was  taking  place  meanwhile,  just 
south  of  Kwaihu  Bay. 

Fremantle,  whose  attention  must  have  been  attracted  by 
my  departure  and  my  sudden  disappearance  from  the  Zanzibar 
waters,  had  meanwhile  put  himself  in  motion,  with  his  flagship 
and  three  other  men-of-war,  in  the  certain  hope,  as  it  appears 
to  me,  that  I  should  endeavour  to  run  into  Manda  Bay,  and 


PROCEEDINGS    WITH  THE  DHOWS.  41 

that  he  should  succeed  in  laying  hold  of  me  there.     His  flag- 
ship lay  ahout  two  German  miles  from  me.     He  had  neglected 
to  occupy  Kwaihu  Bay,  because  he  looked  upon  the  entrance 
to  it  as  closed  up ;  which  I  consider  an  unpardonable  prooeed- 
error  on  his  part.     That  he  did  not,  as  was  afterwards  ^f^ai 
affirmed   in   English   quarters,   consider  Kwaihu  Bay  I'remantie. 
as  lying  outside  the  region  of  his  blockade  and  that  I  had  a 
right  to  land  there,  is  shown  by  the  fact  that  a  few  days  later 
he  forbade  the  Necera  to  land  her  effects  in  Lamu  or  in  the 
adjoining  bays  and  harbours, — a  prohibition  that  undoubtedly 
included  Kwaihu  Bay.     Thus  Fremantle  was  quietly  lying  in 
Manda  Bay,  when  at  about  ten  o'clock  I  with  my  three  sturdy 
dhows  parted  company  with  the  Necera.     In  the  first  jj^  ^^^^^^ 
of  these  I  had  embarked  with  Lieutenant-Captain  Rust,  i»i  the 
in  the  second  was  Herr  Borchert,  the  third  I  had  care- 
lessly left  without  any  white  man  on  board,  as  it  was  to  be 
commanded  by  Herr  Friedenthal,  whom  at  the  last  moment  I 
had  ordered  back  to  the  Necera.      It  was  with  a  feeling  of 
exaltation  that  I  saw  the  white  line  of  breakers  gradually  dis- 
appear behind  us.     Such  may  have  been  the  emotions  of  the 
much-enduring  Ulysses,  when  Circe's  island  disappeared  beneath 
the  ocean.  'v 

At  eleven  o'clock  a  heavy  shower  of  rain  drew  up,  veiling 
before  as  in  twilight  the  islands  of  Kwaihu  and  Fazy,-  and 
also  the  continent.  Thus  we  could  not  accurately  control  our 
course,  and  were  anything  but  pleasantly  surprised  when, 
towards  twelve  o'clock,  the  dhow  suddenly  struck  ^^^^^^^^^  ^^ 
heavily,  and  at  the  same  time  the  sail  came  down,  dhow  navi- 
without  any  command  from  us.  The  ''  captam  ot 
the  dhow  informed  us  that  the  Arab  governor  had  given  orders 
we  were  to  come  once  more  to  Pasa  before  we  betook  ourselves 
to  the  continent.  As  I  afterwards  ascertained,  the  gentlemen 
had  held  councils  during  the  night,  and  after  learning  who  we 
were  had  resolved  to  keep  us  at  Pasa  until  the  British  Admiral 
Fremantle  sent  to  decide  what  should  be  done  with  us.  To 
acquiesce  in  this  was  certainly  not  now  my  intention.  I  could 
not  think  of  making  the  success  of  the  whole  undertaking 


42  XEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

dependent  on  the  humours  of  Arabs  who  were  in  the  pay  of 
the  English.  I  gave  orders  to  hoist  the  sail  again.  After  a 
short  resistance  my  people  succeeded  in  carrying  out  the  order, 
at  which  the  Patta  people  half  voluntarily  and  perhaps  half 
under  compulsion  sprang  overboard,  and  we  were  now  com- 
pletely masters  of  the  boats.  I  requested  Lieutenant-Captain 
Energetic  Rust  to  take  the  helm  in  my  boat;  the  two  other 
measures,  pursuing  dhows  that  now  arrived,  and  manoeuvred  like 
the  first,  had  also  to  turn  round,  when  Herr  Borchert  at  my 
call  interposed  energetically;  and  after  I  had  succeeded  in 
putting  some  determined  Somali  soldiers  into  the  third,  by 
means  of  swimming,  we  drew  off  hastily  from  the  land,  when 
we  saw  masses  of  people  coming  along  with  loud  cries,  and 
now  with  full  sails  we  steered  for  the  continent  of  Africa. 

The  rain,  which  had  ceased  for  a  time,  now  began  to  fall 
again  more  heavily,  and  a  grey  mist  hid  the  Siyu  Canal,  into 
which  we  now  ran.  At  half-past  one  o'clock  we  anchored  before 
a  place  that  was  designated  to  me  as  Kiwani.  I  wondered  at 
seeing  no  houses,  but  caused  myself  to  be  carried  by 
does  not  three  men  a  long  distance  through  the  sea,  to  look 
about  me.  There  was  the  usual  mangrove  thicket. 
A  grey  swell  struck  incessantly  into  the  knotted  tree  roots 
on  which  we  stood.  Lieutenant-Captain  Rust,  who  had  landed 
with''six  Somali  soldiers,  agreed  with  me  either  that  this  was 
not  Kiwani  or  that  Kiwani  was  not  the  place  for  us.  There- 
fore back  into  the  boats !  I  now  took  my  place  in  the  third 
boat,  ordering  Lieutenant-Captain  Rust  into  the  first  one,  so 
that  each  boat  was  furnished  with  a  commander. 

Before  us  lay  the  Siyu  Canal,  which  runs  into  Manda  Bay. 
On  the  left,  in  graceful  lines,  extends  the  island  of  Patta,  which 
The  Si  u  ^  kuew  Very  well  from  having  visited  it  a  year  and 
Canal;  a  a  half  before.  In  the  north  the  continent  of  Africa 
new  p  an.  ^^^^^  boldly  aloug,  curviug  into  a  series  of  bays.  A 
soft  rain  was  rippling  down,  and  wrapped  all  things  in  a  mys- 
terious grey  tint.  This  invited  us  to  the  execution  of  a  plan 
which  had  appeared  tempting  to  me  already  at  Zanzibar,  but 
which  I  had  not  ventured  seriously  to  contemplate. 


QUESTION  OF  LANDING    THE   COODH.  43 

Whoever   looks  at   the  map  will  see  that  the  Siyu  Canal 
nearly  opposite  the  town  of  Patta,  makes  a  wide  cnrVe  to  the 
north.     We  should  have  had  to  avoid  the  northern  bend  of  this 


3f[,i'<"" 


Landi^'g  i>;  Shimbye. 


canal  if  we  had  landed  opposite  Kwaihu.  With  a  lull  comple- 
ment of  porters  this  would  have  taken  us  three  days  to  do,  hut 
with  our  limited  supply  would  require  at  least  six  or  seven. 
But  this  northern  bay  is  already  bounded  on  the  west  by  the 


44  NEW  LIGHT  OX  DARK  AFRICA. 

sultanate  of  Witu.  If  we  could  enter  it,  unperceived,  from 
the  Manda  Baj-,  the  problem  of  evading  the  blockade 
ade  to  be  would  be  successfuUy  solved  this  very  day.  I  made 
evaded.  ^^  ^^^  mind  to  make  use  of  the  opportunity  afforded 
me,  by  the  secure  possession  of  three  dhows,  to  carry  this  plan 
into  execution.  Forward,  therefore,  with  a  good  wind,  to  the 
west !  The  two  front  dhows  lowered  their  sails  to  obey  this 
new  order  of  proceeding ;  and  then  we  rushed  along,  at  about 
the  same  latitude.  Opposite  Siyu  we  inclined  to  the  north, 
and  at  four  in  the  afternoon,  drenched  to  the  skin,  we  cast 
anchor  at  Mbaja.  I  had  the  little  dhow  unloaded  at  once,  as 
I  wished  to  send  it  back  immediately  to  the  ship  with  Herr 
Borchert ;  meanwhile  we  established  ourselves  comfortably  at 
Mbaja. 

I  had  intended  to  cross  that  very  night  to  Shimbye  in  the 

sultanate    of  Witu ;    but  the  complete  state  of  exhaustion  of 

captains  and  crews  alike  compelled  me  somewhat  to 

*"'°"  delay  these  proceedings.  We  supped  on  a  little  cold 
meat,  put  a  sufficient  iiumber  of  soldiers  into  the  dhows,  and 
at  half-past  seven  o'clock  all  went  to  sleep  ;  but  our  rest  was 
uncomfortably  disturbed  by  the  continual  leaking  of  the  rain 
through  the  roof  of  the  negro  hut. 

At  four  o'clock  in  the  morning  Herr  Borchert,  with  four 
soldiers  to  guard  the  possession  of  the  dhow,  returned  to 
Kwaihu  Bay.  At  half-past  five  Lieutenant-Captain  Rust  and 
I  had  all  the  things  stowed  in  the  third  dhow,  and  all  the 
Passage  to  people  placed  in  the  two  others,  which  floated  deep  in 
Shimbye.  ^jjg  ^^ter  and  were  crowded  ;  and  at  sunrise  we  again 
put  to  sea.  iEolus  was  gracious  to  us ;  the  sun  shone 
pleasantly,  and  already  at  half-past  seven  we  were  able  to  cast 
anchor  at  Shimbye.  The  place  itself  lies  some  twelve  minutes 
from  the  anchoring-ground.  I  went  at  once  into  the  village  ; 
found  that  it  was  admirably  suited  to  our  purpose  ;  secured 
the  hire  of  a  few  houses  from  the  elder ;  and  went  back  to  the 
strand  to  superintend  the  landing  of  our  effects.  This  business 
was  continued  till  about  twelve  o'clock,  and  furnished  a  very 
lively  and,  for  us,  an  exceedingly  satisfactory  spectacle.    When 


A  PROSPEROUS   CONCLUSION. 


45 


everything  had  been  landed,  1  went  back  into  the  village  to 
take  in  hand  the  stowing  of  the  baggage,  while   Lieutenant- 
Captain  Rust  remained  on  the  shore.      The   porters  safe  arri- 
ran  to  and  fro  ;   and  by  two  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  g^itanate 
of  June   17th  everything  was  snugly  housed  at  Shim-  of'Witu. 
bye,  in  the  sultanate  of  Witu,  under  the  flag  of  Fumo  Bakari 
that  waved  above  us. 


•■#■ 


CHAPTER   III. 

THE   SULTANATE    OF    WITU. 

"  But  wildly  did  tliey  fare, — 
I  fear  'twill  rend ; — 
God  makes  not  the  account 


At  each  week's  end.' 


Goethe. 


THE  impediment  of  brute  force  offered 
by    the    blockade  had    thus    been 
o\  ercome  ;    and  the   task   of  conquering 
this  difficult}'  had  not  been  a  very  difficult 
if^*/''y  out-       A   little    cool   calculation    and,   above 

* ' ,     ^     -  "       all,  complete  discretion  had  been  sufficient  to 
A  ^    '  stultil}    the   prophecies  of  friends   and  foes  in 

■    \  Success  of   Zanzibar.     There  the  C4erman  Emin  Pasha 

•■'•'  mand°ert    Ex])edition  had  already  been  looked  upon 

plan.  as  a  lamentable  failure,  and  there  had  been 
rejoicing  over  the  i'act.  But  the  English  had  been  too  con- 
fident of  success,  Miiich  in  general  appears  to  me  to  be  a 
national  fault  ^Yith   them,  and  one   that  may  some   day   cost 


THE  EXPEDITION  AT  SHIM  BYE.  47 

them  dear ;  and  so  the  Ne(£ra,  in  spite  of  four  English 
ships  of  war,  had  happily  run  into  the  northernmost  ba.y 
of  the  system  of  the  Lamu  harbours.  The  consciousness 
of  having  prevented  this  ignominious  stifling  of  the  conflicting 
expedition  at  Zanzibar  was  naturally  calculated  to  call  feelings, 
forth  in  us  a  certain  feeling  of  triumph.  But,  on  the  other 
hand,  the  position  in  which  we  were  now  placed  was  scarcely  of 
a  kind  to  keep  alive  in  me  feelings  of  satisfaction. 

I  had  landed,  all  in  all,  at  Shimbye,  some  sixty  porters  and 
twenty- seven  soldiers.  With  these,  on  June  17th,  I  had  in 
the  first  place  to  confront  the  task  of  getting  more  than  two 
hundred  and  fifty  loads  of  ammunition  and  other  stores  to  Witu, 
in  the  face  of  the  British  fleet.  That  in  the  event  of  further 
violence  on  the  part  of  the  English  I  was  entirely  desti- 
tute  of  rights,  I  understood  perfectly  well.  Moreover,  hostile  in- 
so  long  as  I  remained  on  the  coast  I  was  not  safe  for  a 
moment  in  my  own  camp  from  the  danger  of  a  visit  of  English 
marines.  Though  I  had  been  obliged  to  make  use  of  stratagem 
against  the  English  ships  of  war,  I  was  certainly  resolved  to 
employ  the  means  far  more  sympathetic  to  me,  the  ris  vim 
vi  expellit,  in  opposing  any  such  violence  by  land.  But  the 
position  of  the  German  Emin  Pasha  Expedition  was  hardly 
improved  by  this  resolution. 

At  Shimbye  I  was  obliged  to  wait  for  a  few  days  to  give 
the  whole  column  a  little  rest.  The  people  were  greatly  ex- 
hausted by  the  hardships  of  the  sea  passage.  It  was  also 
requisite  thoroughly  to  clean  the  arms,  which  had  suffered 
greatly  from  the  sea  water,  to  mount  the  gun,  and  Doings  at 
to  take  the  tent-loads  to  pieces.  In  addition  I  had  to  shimbye. 
wait  for  news  from  Herr  Borchert,  and  the  dhow,  with  the 
remainder  of  our  things  from  the  Necera.  With  regard  to 
these  things  I  had  directed  that  everything  which  falls  under 
the  designation  of  "  merchandise  "  should,  according  to  the 
permission  given  me  by  Fremantle,  go  to  Lamu,  from  whence 
I  could  have  it  delivered  to  me  on  the  continent  by  means 
of  nine  camels  I  had  formerly  bought  at  Aden,  and  that  were 
now  stationed  at  Lamu;    that,   on   the   contrary,  everything 


48  NEW  LIGHT  OX  DARK  AFRICA. 

which  fell  under  the  designation  of  "  contraband  of  war  "  and, 
consequeutl}^  under  the  regulations  of  the  blockade,  should 
be  brought  to  me  by  dhow  to   Shimbye,   which  lies  to  the 
Measures    north   of  the  blockade   line.      On   June    18th,  Herr 
ing'thr'   Friedenthal  arrived  at  Shimbye  with  this  portion  of 
stores,  etc.  ^jjg  things.     Herr  Borchert  sent  me  word  that  he  had 
considered  it  better  for  his  part  to  go  to  Lamu  with  the  goods 
intended  for  barter  than  personally  to  superintend  the  loading 
of  the  camels.     Already  before  the  arrival  of  Herr  Friedenthal 
from  Shimbye,  on  June  18th,  I  had  put  myself  in  communica- 
tion with  Herr  von  Tiedemann  and  Herren  Toeppen  and  Gustav 
Eeport  to   Deuhardt  in  Lamu.     On  that  day  I  wrote  a  report  to 
Germany.    Germany,  which,  with  regard  to  Jackson's  expedition, 
concluded  with  these  words  :  "  We  will  just  see  if  the  English, 
with  all  the  start  they  made,  have  overtaken  us."     My  whole 
attention  during  the  next  few  days  was  directed  to  procuring 
additional  porterage  power.     For  this  purpose  I  betook  myself 
on  June  19th  to  Wanga,  with  a  few  people.    Close  by  the  shore 
there  I  found  a  house  which  had  quite  a  European  character. 
I  entered,  and  found  in  it  Herr  Schonert,  an  official  of  Herr 
Visit  to      Denhardt.    He  received  me  kindly,  and  at  once  pointed 
"Wanga.      q^^  ^q  me,  in  the  bay  before  his  windows,  a  ship  well 
known  to    me,    the   Boadicea  of   Admiral  Fremantle,  which 
had  arrived  shortly  before.     At  one  o'clock  in  the  day  Herr 
Schonert  accompanied  me  back  to  Shimbye,  and  here  I  had  the 
agreeable  surprise   of  seeing  Herr  von  Tiedemann,  who,  on 
receiving  the  news  of  our  landing,  had  at  once  betaken  him- 
self with  Toeppen,  Denhardt,  and  Gerstaecker  on  board  a  dhow, 
to  seek  us  in  the  environs  of  Kwaihu  Bay.     It  was  somewhat 
late  before  they  discovered  us  at  Shimbye.     Already  before  ray 
Exaggerat- letters  arrived  at  Lamu   rumour  had  carried  thither 
ed  reports.  ^]^g   announcement   of  our   landing.      But  with  what 
exaggeration  !      A   thousand  Germans   were  reported  to"  have 
landed  in  Kwaihu  Bay,  and  there  was  great  excitement  among 
the  white  and  black  population.     To  my  sorrow  I  soon  con- 
vinced myself  that  my  hope  of  procuring  porters  through  Herr 
Toeppen  had  little  chance  of  being  realised.     But  I  arranged 


A    VERY  DIFFICULT  POSITION.  49 

with  him  that  he  should  undertake  the  fitting  out  of  my  ex- 
pedition, with  suitable  articles  of  barter,  for  the  Tana  route. 
I  had  caused  ninety-six  loads  of  articles  of  barter  to  be  brought 
together  from  Zanzibar  in  view  of  a  Tanga-Massai  Articles  of 
route.  I  was  at  that  time  still  possessed  with  the  ''*'^*"'  ®**- 
traditional  views  of  African  travel,  that  it  was  necessary  to 
provide,  with  the  most  anxious  care,  a  selection  of  articles  of 
barter  for  each  separate  route,  suited  to  the  tastes  of  the 
inhabitants  of  the  districts  through  which  a  man  would  pass, 
if  he  wanted  to  travel  at  all  in  Africa. 

Accordingly  I  arranged  with  Herr  Toeppen  that  he  should 
take  over  the  articles  of  barter  I  had  brought  with  me,  and 
conveyed  to  Lamu.  The  part  that  could  be  used  he  was  to 
include  in  the  collection  to  be  made  by  him ;  the  rest  uew  ar- 
he  was  to  sell  on  the  best  terms  he  could  get ;  and  rangements. 
then,  from  his  own  camp,  and  from  other  wares  that  were  to 
be  procured  at  Zanzibar,  he  should  put  together  the  articles  I 
should  require  on  my  route. 

On  this  afternoon  I  also  learned  for  the  first  time  that 
four  English  men-of-war  were  cruising  in  these  waters  without 
any  ostensible  reason.  But  to  me  the  reason  was  ostensible 
enough ;  and  in  consequence  of  this  news  I  determined  ^  hurried 
to  start  with  my  expedition  at  once  towards  the  departure, 
south-west,  to  get  away  in  the  first  instance  from  the  vicinity 
of  the  sea.  Therefore  on  the  same  evening,  at  half-past  five,  I 
sent  my  ammunition  by  the  land  road  to  Wanga,  and  in  the 
night,  between  eleven  and  twelve,  I  despatched  a  dhow  laden 
with  provisions  under  Herr  Friedenthal  to  Mgine.  June  20th 
and  21st  afforded  us  the  diverting  sight  of  our  dhows,  with 
the  stores  for  the  expedition,  moving,  in  view  of  Admiral 
Fremantle  and  the  Boadicea,  from  Shimbye  towards  xte "  Boa- 
Mgine,  at  which  place  they  all  arrived  in  good  con-  "*"**•" 
dition.  The  gentlemen  perhaps  took  us  for  quite  ordinary 
slave  dhows,  which  were  not  worth  chasing, — especially  as  by 
so  doing  the  interests  of  their  new  friends  of  Patta  or  Manda 
might  be  compromised.  Certainly,  the  Boadicea  was  lying  here 
pursuant  to  the  orders  of  the  blockade,  quite  irrespective  of 


50  XEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

US,  to  watch  the  dhow  traffic  with  respect  to  contrahand  of  war, 
ammunition,  and  slaves  ;  and  the  excuse  that  they  could  not  be 
aware  that  dhows  were  transported  by  sea  to  Mgine  would 
accordingly  not  have  been  valid.  It  was  indeed  a  system  of 
surveillance  calculated  to  inspire  respect ! 

On  the  morning  of  June  20th  I  myself  went,  in  company 
with  Herren  Toeppen,  Denhardt,  and  von  Tiedemann,  with  a 
number  of  loads  to  "Wanga.  On  this  day  the  Boadicea  fired 
many  salutes,  and  had  run  up  the  Wali  flag;  a  proof  that  Walls 
were  on  board,  my  friend  Buana  Mse  being  probably  among 
them.     In  every  case  the  fact  of  our  landing  must  now 

13'6CGSSltT 

for  quick  be  Undoubtedly  known  to  the  English.  In  spite  of  this, 
judging  from  the  proofs  I  had  already  had  of  their 
vigilance,  I  resolved,  as  I  wished  to  get  matters  concluded 
quickly  at  Shimbye,  to  work  that  day  with  dhows  also  on  the 
sea.  We  got  together  three  such  dhows,  two  of  which  I  sent 
to  Shimbye  with  new  instructions  for  Lieutenant-Captain  Rust, 
keeping  one  for  myself. 

Besides  this,  behind  the  bushes  which  hid  them  from  the 
view  of  the  English  man-of-war,  my  people  were  all  day  long 
carrying  loads  of  ammunition  for  me  from  Shimbye  to  Wanga. 
Rust  put  the  remainder  of  the  things  in  the  two  dhows  sent  to 
him  ;  and  on  June  21st,  by  ten  o'clock  at  night,  the  whole 
The  landing  expedition  had  been  transported  to  Mgine,  from 
atMgine.  -^vhence  the  much  frequented  land  road  leads  to  Witu. 
Already  on  this  day,  at  nine  in  the  morning,  Herr  Friedenthal 
arrived  with  his  dhow,  then  Herr  Gerstaecker  on  one  of  the 
two  Shimbye  dhows.  The  ammunition  I  did  not  send  from 
Wanga  quite  to  Mgine,  but  landed  it  opposite  Wanga  on  the 
further  side  of  a  creek,  under  the  supervision  of  Herren 
Toeppen  and  Tiedemann,  to  have  it  carried  from  thence  by  the 
land  road  to  Mgine.  This  overland  transport  I  superintended 
myself,  M'ith  Herr  Denhardt.  I  arrived  M'ith  about  fifty  loads 
at  Mgine,  at  half-past  six  o'clock,  and  at  once  sent  the  people 
back  to  bring  up  the  remainder,  which  Herr  Tiedemann  was 
guarding,  the  same  night.  At  ten  o'clock,  as  we  all  sat  in  very 
cheerful  mood  at  supper  in  Mgine,   to  my  great  satisfaction 


ASSEMBLING  OF  THE  EXPEDITION.  51 

the  last  dhow  arrived,  under  Lieutenant-Captain  Rust ;  and  at 
daybreak  next  morning  I  had  everything  deposited  in  safety 
on  shore,  and  immediately  sent  sixty  loads  of  ammunition 
further  inland  to  Hindi,  which  was  about  nine  miles  distant. 

I  had    selected   Hindi  as   the  spot  where  I  would  gather 
together  all  the  means  and  powers  I  possessed,  and  organise  my 
expedition.     The  place  was  situated  some  miles  from 
the  sea,  immediately  behind  Lamu,  in  the  midst  of  a  vous  at 
richly   cultivated   region,    and   appeared  therefore  to  ^'''^" 
fulfil  all  the  conditions  for  my  work  of  organisation.     I  betook 
myself  thither  on  the  23rd  in  company  with  Herren  Denhardt 
and  von  Tiedemann,  while  Lieutenant-Captain  Rust  once  more 
remained  behind  to  superintend   the  reserves.     Through  the 
whole  of  the  23rd,  24th,  and  25th  we  worked  to  get  all  the  loads 
housed  at  Lamu  ;  in  which  business  my  camels,  drawn  from 
Lamu  on  the  morning  of  June  24th,  proved  themselves  very 
useful. 

On  June  25th,  1889,  the  whole  expedition  was  assembled 
at  Hindi.  I  had  the  tents  set  up  in  the  middle  of  the  place, 
my  guns  loaded,  and  the  houses  around  occupied.  On  the 
road  towards  Lamu,  from  which  direction  further  forcible 
proceedings  on  the  part  of  the  English  were  perhaps  to  be 
expected,  I  had  a  guard  maintained,  day  and  night,  to  get 
timely  notice  of  any  such  movement.  The  gentlemen,  however, 
did  not  favour  us  with  a  visit.  These  last  measures  of  mine 
might  appear  exaggerated,  if  it  were  not  taken  into  con- 
sideration what  feelings  must  have  been  awakened  in  us  by 
the  events  that  had  taken  place,  in  the  interval,  at  Lamu. 

At  that  place  Herr  Borchert  had  arrived  on  June  20th 
with  the  Necera,  which  had  meanwhile  suffered  damage  by  sea. 
On  the  way  it  had  almost  appeared  as  if  the  Necera  must  go 
to  pieces.  They  had  been  obliged  to  cast  out  the  The 
sheet  anchor ;  and  the  captain  advised  Borchert  to  be  brought  to 
prepared  for  the  worst.  Nevertheless  on  June  20th,  on  '"">''• 
the  day  when  from  Herr  Borchert's  window  I  was,  with  peculiar 
interest,  watching  through  a  telescope  the  proceedings  on  board 
the  English  flagship  Boadicea,  the  Necera  reached  the  harbour 


.32  .V^ir  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

of  Lamu.  As  she  ran  in  she  was  met  by  a  pinnace  from  the 
English  ship  of  war  Mariner-,  whose  officer  called  up  from  the 
boat,  "  Where  is  Dr.  Peters  ?  "  The  question  was  asked  in  a 
tone  as  if  the  officer  were  enquiring,  not  whether  I  was  at 
Zanzibar  or  in  the  interior,  but  in  the  cabin  or  on  the  quarter- 
deck. The  more  startling,  accordingly,  was  Herr  Borchert's 
answer,  "Dr.  Peters .P  Dr.  Peters  is  gone  into  the  interior,  to 
Emin  Pasha."  Next  morning  Fremantle  himself  appeared,  and 
summoned  the  captain  of  the  Necera.  To  our  general  regret  we 
heard  at  Hindi  that  Admiral  Fremantle  had  been  very  angry 
indeed  in  the  presence  of  the  captain.  We  were  told  he  gave 
manifest  signs  of  considerable  disturbance  of  spirit.  For  five 
days,  he  exclaimed,  he  had  been  cruising  in  these  miserable 
waters  with  three  men-of-war,  the  Boadicea,  the  Mariner,  and 
the  Cossack,  for  the  sole  purpose  of  intercepting  us — for  five 
days, five  days!  And  now,  after  all ! — Poor  Admiral  Fremantle! 
We  all  pitied  him  sincerely.  But  from  his  anger — which 
appeared  to  me  personally  somewhat  inexplicable,  inasmuch 
as  he  had  given  permission  for  the  Necera  to  land  at  Lamu 
provided  neither  I  nor  ammunition  were  on  board — there 
were  evolved  in  him  manly  resolutions,  which  promised  him 
satisfaction. 

The  two  following  letters  should  be  read  by  those  who 
would  form  an  opinion  of  what  occurred  at  Lamu  subsequently 
to  June  20th.  They  were  written  in  English,  and  I  herewith 
give  them  : — 

"  Bagamoyo,  June  dth,  1889. 

"  Your  ExcELLENcr,— I  have  the  honour  kindly  to  inform 
Your  Excellency  that  I  shall  most  likely  have  to  send  the 
Necera  to  Lamu. 

"  According  to  the  promise  kindly  given  by  Your  Excel- 
lency to  me,  that  you  will  raise  no  objections  to  my  doing  so  in 
case  there  are  neither  arms  and  war  ammunitions  nor  my  own 
person  on  board,  I  kindly  beg  from  Your  Excellency  to  instruct 
the  commander  of  H.M.S.  at  Lamu  of  my  intention. 

"  I  probably  shall  send  to  Lamu  either  Herr  Borchert  or 


CORRESPONDENCE   WITH  ADMIRAL  FREMANTLE.  53 

Herr  Friedenthal  or  both,  and  this  will  be  about  from  June 
25th  to  30th.     With  the  expression  of  my  sincere  respect, 
"  I  remain  Your  Excellency's  most  obedient  Servant, 

"  (Signed)     Carl  Peters." 

"  BoADiCEA  "  AT  Zanzibab,  June  11th,  1889. 

"  Sir, — I  have  the  honour  to  acknowledge  the  receipt  of  your 
letter  of  the  9th  instant,  informing  me  of  your  intention  to  send 
the  Necera  to  Lamu,  but  that  in  accordance  with  what  I  men- 
tioned in  our  recent  interview  you  would  not  go  yourself,  and 
no  arms  or  ammunition  would  be  on  board  the  ship. 

"  Under  the  above  circumstances  I  shall  not  object  to  the 
Neoera  going  to  Lamu,  and  I  will  give  instructions  to  our 
blockading  ship  accordingly  ;  but  her  proceedings  there  will  be 
watched,  and  I  shall  direct  that  she  is  ordered  to  quit  the  port 
if  anything  whatever  is  being  done  or  suspected  which  would  at 
all  be  liable  to  create  disturbance  or  injure  the  British  Imperial 
East  Africa  Company. 

"  It  would  tend  to  remove  suspicion  if  you  were  to  make  a 
candid  statement  of  the  object  for  which  the  Necera  is  required 
to  go  to  Lamu. 

"  I  have  the  honour  to  be,  Sir,  your  obedient  Servant, 

"  Feemantle,  Vice-Admiral. 

"  To  De.  Gael  Petees,  Bagamoyo." 

This  letter  of  Admiral  Fremantle  I  did  not  receive  until 
afterwards  at  Witu,  and  was  consequently  unable  to  send  an 
earlier  reply.  To  further  elucidate  the  position  I  also  append 
the  following  letter  : — 

"  Lamu,  June  ilst,  1889. 

"To  OSKAR  BOECHEET,  EsQ., 

"  Member  of  the  German  Emin  Pasha  Expedition,  Lamu. 

"  Sir,— I  have  the  honour  to  inform  you  that  I  have  received 
order  from  Arbuthnot,  Commander  of  H.M.S.  Mariner,  to  pre- 
vent the  ss.  Necera  from  landing  the  cargo  consigned  to  the 
German  Emin  Pasha  Expedition  in  Lamu. 

"I  further   have   to   state   that   I   have   examined    every 


o4  XEW  LIGHT   ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

package,  and  hereby  certify  that  I  have  found  neither  arms 
nor  ammunition  nor  powder  amongst  them. 
"  I  have  the  honour  to  be,  Sir, 

"  (Signed)     D.  E.  Egberts,  Seaman  H.M.S.  '  Mariner .'" 

When,  on  June  23rd,  I  arrived  at  Hindi,  Herr  Oskar 
Borchert  had  come  over  in  person  from  Lamu,  to  report  to  me 
on  the  contents  of  this  letter.  The  matter  no  longer  formally 
concerned  me,  as  already  in  Kwaihu  Bay  I  had  transferred  to 
Herr  Borchert  the  right  of  directing  the  movements  of  the 
Neoera,  and  had  left  the  articles  of  barter  which  were  on  board 
the  steamer,  as  already  stated,  at  the  disposal  of  Herr  Oust 
Toeppen,  at  Shimbye.  Nevertheless  I  was  naturally  materially 
a£fected  by  these  occurrences,  inasmuch  as  I  was  anxious,  from 
financial  considerations,  to  get  a  fresh  charter  for  the  Neoera  as 
soon  as  possible,  and,  on  the  other  hand,  Herr  Toeppen  was 
going  to  furnish  my  new  equipment  for  the  expedition  partly 
from  the  articles  of  barter  I  had  surrendered  to  him.  Conse- 
quently I  gave  Herr  Borchert  new  instructions  for  his  conduct 
in  the  affair,  and  hoped,  looking  at  the  concluding  sentence  of 
Roberts's  letter,  that  it  would  be  quickly  settled.  Accordingly, 
who  shall  describe  my  astonishment  when  on  June  24th  Herr 
Borchert  sent  me  a  copy  of  the  following  letter  :— 

"  H.M.S.  '  Mariner,'  at  Lamu, 

June  22nd,  1889. 
"To  OsKAE  Borchert,  Esq., 
"  Member  of  the  German  Emin  Pasha  Expedition. 

"Sir, — Acting  under  orders  from  the  naval  Commander- 
in-Chief  in  these  waters,  and  in  consideration  of  the  existing 
blockade  of  this  part  of  the  coast  of  Africa,  I  have  to  inform 
you  that  the  stores  at  present  on  board  your  ship  for  Dr.  Carl 
Peters  cannot  be  landed  at  this  place,  or  at  any  other  part 
within  or  adjacent  to  that  part  of  the  coast  which  is  at  present 
under  blockade.  Those  stores  now  in  a  lighter  alongside  your 
ship  must  be  taken  on  board  again,  and  you  are  to  quit  the  port 
as  soon  as  this  is  accomplished.  I  shall  send  an  officer  and  an 
armed  party  on  board  to  support  you  in  carrying  out  this  order. 


THE  ARTICLES   OF  BARTER.  55 

The  officer  will  accompany  you  to  Zanzibar,  in  order  to!seethat 
the  stores  are  not  landed  at  any  other  port  on  this  part  of  the 
coast.     His  passage  to  that  place  will  be  taken  and  paid  for. 
"  (Signed)     Charles  E.  Arbuthnot, 

"  Commander." 

This  order  was  apparently  the  means  adopted  by  Admiral 
Fremantle  of  airing  his  displeasure  at  the  landing  in  Kwaihu 
Bay.  I  may  emphasise  only  one  point — that  in  the  matter  of 
the  confiscated  goods  there  was  no  question  of  the  equipment 
for  my  expedition,  but  simply  of  merchandise,  from  which  Herr 
Toeppen  was  going  to  select  articles  of  barter  for  its  use,  and 
which  I  might  in  any  case  hope,  at  least  in  part,  to  find  procur- 
able in  the  stores  at  Lamu  itself.    Thus  the  proceeding  „    .    ^ 

r  o  Borchert 

of  Admiral  Fremantle  was  evidently  not  so  much  in-  and  the 
tended  for  a  blow  at  the  German  Emin  Pasha  Expedition 
as  for  a  means  of  expressing  his  anger  at  what  he  had  not  been 
able  to  prevent.  Enough  to  say,  twenty-five  English  marines 
were  sent  on  board  the  Neoera,  the  steamer's  engine  was  de- 
molished, and  the  vessel  itself  towed  to  Zanzibar.  As  afterwards 
became  manifest,  the  course  of  the  expedition  was  considerably 
altered  in  consequence  of  this  measure.  After  a  few  weeks  it 
was  found  that  the  articles  of  barter  required  for  the  Massai 
country  were  not  to  be  had  at  Lamu,  and  in  the  course  of  the 
following  months  it  became  manifest  that  I  should  never  be 
put  in  possession  of  the  new  articles  procured  from  Zanzibar, 
which  Lieutenant-Captain  Rust  was  to  bring  after  me.  The 
English  succeeded  in  bringing  it  about  that  the  German  Emin 
Pasha  Expedition  acquired  a  character  that  differed  in  every 
way  from  that  of  usual  African  travels.  But  they  were  not 
able  to  thwart  the  undertaking,  or  even  essentially  to  weaken  its 
action ;  and  in  looking  back  upon  these  events  during  the  course 
of  the  expedition,  the  biblical  text  frequently  came  into  my  mind: 
"  Ye  thought  evil  against  me,  but  God  meant  it  unto  good." 

Practically  these  proceedings  of  Fremantle's  had  the  effect 
of  entirely  removing  from  the  sphere  of  my  action,  for  the  whole 
further  course  of  the  expedition,  Herr  Oskar  Borchert,  whom 
I  had  intended  to  take  part  in  it  in  closest  contiguity  to  myself. 


56  A'filF  LIGHT  ON  J)ARK  AFRICA. 

He  was  obliged  to  go  to  Zanzibar,  because  I  was  determined  to 
defend  myself  with  the  utmost  seriousness  against  this  clums)' 

jj^^         infringement   of  rights  on  the  part   of  the   English. 

"Necera"  There  he  prosecuted  with  effect  the  so-called  Neoera 
lawsuit,  which,  so  far  as  I  have  ascertained,  awakened 
general  interest  throughout  the  whole  of  Europe,  and  of  which 
I  give  a  few  particulars  in  the  Appendix.  Not  until  the  con- 
clusion of  the  suit  was  Herr  Borchert  able  to  lead  the  second 
column  of  the  expedition  up  the  Tana. 

To  this  first  blow  which  fell  upon  me  at  Hindi  was  soon 
added  a  second,  in  the  painful  consciousness  that  it  would  not 
be  possible  for  me  to  increase  my  force  of  porters  in  the  Witu 
Difficulty  of  territory,  in  such  a  manner  as  to  let  me  hope  that  I 
procaring    should  be  able  to  carry  up  the  Tana,  in  one  column, 

porters.  ./      j.  ^  j 

even  the  loads  that  I  had  remaining.  The  Suaheli  of 
Witu  and  Lamu  has  not  the  enterprising  spirit  possessed  by  the 
Wangwana  on  the  German  East  African  coast.  There  is  no 
idea  of  any  intercourse,  by  means  of  caravans,  with  the  interior, 
and  thus  it  was  only  one  by  one  that  candidates  appeared  to 
take  part  in  my  expedition  ;  and  those  who  came  were  not  just 
the  best  of  their  tribes.  All  kinds  of  disreputable  rabble  ap- 
peared, with  the  intention  of  getting -porter's  pay  for  one  or  two 
months  in  advance,  and  then  running  away.  I  could,  more- 
over, scarcely  meet  such  fraudulent  proceedings  effectually  in 
those  regions,  because  the  only  possible  measure  against  them, 
namely,  that  of  putting  suspected  characters  in  chains,  and 
punishing  such  deserters  as  were  captured  with  the  most  rigor- 
ous severity,  could  not,  from  political  considerations,  be  here 
put  into  practice.  The  highest  number  of  porters  I  ever 
nominally  had  under  my  authority  amounted  to  about  ninety; 
but  in  reality  we  probably  never  possessed  more  than  seventy 
porters.  I  was,  therefore,  the  more  anxious  to  strengthen  my 
camel  column,  and  to  supplement  the  deficient  carrying  power 
by  the  purchase  of  asses.  I  succeeded  in  bringing  my  column 
of  camels  up  to  seventeen  head,  and  in  purchasing  nine  donkeys. 
Thus  it  was  clear  that  I  might  not  hope  to  convey  all  my  loads 
at  one  time  up  the  Tana.     I  was  obliged  to  divide  the  expedition 


ARRANGEMENTS  FOR   THE  MARCH.  57 

into  two  columns,  the  second  of  which  I  placed  under  the 
command  of  Lieutenant-Captain  D.  Rust.  He  was  to  organise 
a  boat  expedition  on.  the  Tana,  and  to  join  me  again  .  .  . 
in  Oda-Boru-Ruva,  with  the  loads  left  behind,  and  the  expedi- 
especially  the  articles  of  barter  expected  from  Zanzibar.  *^'"*' 
As  it  was  not  possible  to  strengthen  myself  with  new  porters 
among  the  Suahelis,  I  now  put  my  hope  in  the  Wapakomo  or 
Gallas  on  the  Upper  Tana,  where  this  attempt  might  perhaps 
succeed,  and  where,  in  any  case,  I  should  be  in  a  position,  in 
case  the  articles  of  barter  from  Zanzibar  reached  me,  to  equip  a 
caravan  of  asses,  and  with  these  to  get  to  the  Equatorial  Province. 
These  were  the  hopes  that  animated  me  in  Hindi  and  Witu,  and 
in  accordance  with  which  I  made  my  resolutions.  How  small  a 
portion  of  them  was  destined  to  be  fulfilled  in  the  end ! 

On  the  other  hand,  a  thing  completely  accomplished  in  Hindi 
was  the  ordering  of  the  burdens.  The  portion  of  the  water 
that  had  been  spoilt  was  reiected ;  the  rest  was  accu- 

.    .  Porterage 

rately  booked,  and  divided  betweeu  the  two  columns,  arrange- 
From  LamuHerr  Toeppen  sent  in  all  about  thirty  loads  ™*"  °' 
of  powder,  biscuit,  lucifer  matches,  and  woven  stuffs,  all  very 
useful  things,  only  that  none  of  them  were  of  any  value  for  the 
route  I  had  selected  through  the  Massai  lands,  as  here  nothing 
will  pass  current  but  iron,  and  copper  wire,  and  beads.  On  the 
whole  I  estimated  the  loads  my  column  was  to  carry  up  at  about 
a  hundred  and  fifty,  and  left  behind  with  Lieutenant-Captain 
Rust  the  same  number,  to  be  brought  up  after  me.  Herr  von 
Tiedemann  was  to  go  up  in  my  company. 

Besides  these  obvious  labours,  I  especially  occupied  myself 
at  Hindi  in  disciplining  and  organising  my  originally  very 
disorderly  column.     As  I  was  compelled  to  begin  the  ^.^^.  ^_ 
march  into  the  interior  without  any  real  articles  of  ing  the 
barter,  I  could  not  pay  my  way,  as  Thomson  and  other  "'""P^'^y- 
people  were  accustomed  to  do,  by  giving  tribute  to  the  native 
chiefs  ;  therefore  the  discipline  of  my  people,  and  the  control  I 
could  exercise  over  them,  became  of  the  very  greatest  conse- 
quence for  the   success  of  the   undertaking.      If  I  could  not 
carry  out  the  German  Emin  Pasha  Expedition  in  the  usual 


58  XEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

peaceable  fashion,  as  I  had  originally  hoped  to  do,  I  must  face 
the  fact  that  I  might  ultimately  be  compelled  to  organise  our 
column  as  a  warlike  band.  Now  it  is  a  well-known  physical 
law,  that  the  effect  of  a  power  may  be  increased  quite  equally 
in  one  of  two  ways — either  by  the  augmentation  of  the  mass, 
or  by  the  increase  of  velocity.  To  increase  the  mass  of  my 
troops,  looked  upon  as  a  warlike  force,  was  not  in  my  hand ; 
the  possibility  of  increasing  their  quickness  or  availableness 
depended  solely  upon  the  carrying  out  of  an  unwavering  dis- 
cipline. To  attain  this,  I  had  to  turn  my  attention  principally 
to  the  Somalis  of  the  column,  by  means  of  whom,  if  I  got  them 
well  in  hand,  I  could  carry  out  a  thorough  physical  authority 
over  the  porterage  element,  which  was  made  up  chiefly  of 
Thena-  Central  Africans.  Such  African  masses  of  men  can 
thlirm^n-  ^^^J  ^^  ^^P^  i^  control  by  a  determination  uncom- 
ners.  promisingly  to  carry  out  one's  own  will  in  the  teeth  of 
all  opposition.  I,  too,  have  found  this  the  only  thing  that  makes 
an  impression  upon  one's  own  people.  The  so-called  Bwana 
Wasari  (good  masters)  will  not,  under  critical  circumstances, 
possess  the  authority  which  is  necessary  to  carry  an  expedition 
safely  through  the  vicissitudes  and  dangers  of  the  elements  and 
ol  warfare.  The  impression  I  should  recommend  leaders  of 
expeditions  to  aim  at  producing  must  be  the  verdict  of  the 
people  :  "Kali  sana  laikini  hodari  sana  "  (Very  strict  but  very 
thorough).  By  this  feeling  in  separate  things  there  is  woven 
in  time  around  the  leader  and  his  followers  an  almost  demo- 
niacal bond,  which  is  sufficiently  strong  to  withstand  the  crises 
and  catastrophes  in  a  life  of  African  travel.  The  Somalis  possess 
Character  gi'eat  Sensibility,  and  if  they  are  properly  managed,  and 
mails*  ^''"  *^^^^  prejudices  are  respected,  they  are  easy  to  lead. 
Of  course,  with  them  also,  one  must  not  think  to  manage 
matters  entirely  on  the  lines  of  the  "  point  of  honour."  In  the 
course  of  the  expedition  I  had  even  for  my  Somalis  to  introduce 
corporal  punishment,  and  to  inflict  it  rigorously. 

The  development  of  all  this,  which  naturally  could  only  evolve 
itself  during  the  Course  of  the  expedition,  was  already  begun 
during  the  week  we  spent  at  Hindi.     It  was  a  wonderful  time 


EXPERIENCE   THE  BEST   TEACHER.  59 

of  cares,  labours,  plans,  and  hopes.  The  tardy  rainy  season 
poured  whole  waterspouts  down  upon  us  every  day ;  and  it  was 
seldom  that  the  sun  shone  upon  us,  as  we  laboured  The  rainy 
at  the  burdens.  In  these  days  I  had  caused  a  saddle-  '^='''"'- 
horse  to  be  bought  for  me  in  Lamu,  and  repeatedly  rode  out  on 
excursions  in  the  environs  of  Hindi.  I  rode  for  hours  along 
the  way  to  Lamu,  until  I  saw  before  me  the  peculiar  dune  of 
that  place.  I  knew  that  if  I  went  into  Lamu  I  should  run  the 
risk  of  personal  arrest.  I  had  the  feeling  that  banished  men 
may  experience,  of  being  cut  off  from  Europe  and  my  home. 
For  me  there  was  only  one  thing : 

"  To  westward,  oh,  to  westward  yet, 
My  gallant  bark,  speed  on ; — 
Dying,  my  heart's  last  wish  shall  greet 
The  land  I  would  have  won."  * 

There  was  no  thought  of  turning  back.  Whether  the  goal 
of  our  desires  could  be  reached  appeared  at  Hindi  more  than 
improbable.  But  then  there  was  only  one  fate  for  us  all — 
destruction !  Thus  a  peculiarly  mournful  and  emotional  tone 
characterised  these  our  first  days  on  the  continent  of  Africa. 
There  was  only  one  consolation,  that  of  bowing  the  soul  entirely 
under  the  mysterious  dispensations  of  Providence. 

On  Wednesday,  July  3rd,  I  at  length  set  out  from  Hindi, 
having  the  day  before  received  my  articles  of  barter  from 
Lamu.     I  wished  first  to  lead  my  column  as  far  as  „, 

•'  The  start 

Witu,  and  there  to  wait  for  the  second  column  under  from 
Rust,  and  the  first  march  was  to  be  only  seven  miles, 
as  far  as  the  place  called  Kibokoni.  First,  I  had  the  camels 
loaded ;  then  the  asses  received  their  burdens.  How  clumsily 
the  whole  work  was  still  managed  is  shown  by  the  fact  that  it  was 
ten  o'clock  before  we  had  completed  this  business.  At  a  later 
period  of  the  expedition,  the  loading  of  the  camels  and  asses 
was  always  finished  by  six  o'clock  in  the  morning.  Everything 
has  to  be  learnt,  especially  the  leading  of  an  African  expedi- 
tion.    That  I  had  still  something  to  learn  in  this  respect  was 

*   From  "  Columbus,"  a  poem  by  Luisa  Brachmann.- — Tr. 


60 


NEW  LltiflT   OX   DARK   AFRICA. 


mauii'estcd  b_y  mj'self,  in  the  fact  that  after  the  beasts  of  burden 
had  been  loaded,  I  marched  oft'  with  them  instead  of  waiting, 
as  I  ought  to  have  done,  to  be  the  very  last  to  quit  the  camp, 
especially  on  that  day;  and  that  I  left  to  Lieutenant-Captain 
Rust  and  Herren  von  Tiedemann  and  Friedenthal  the  task  of 
loading  and  superintending  the  porters.  But  I  altered  this  as 
early  as  the  following  day. 

As  my  horse  had  been  somewhat  chafed  by  the  saddle,  I 


JjOADINU    THE    (JAMELS. 


marched  on  foot  out  of  camp,  at  a  (quarter  past  ten,  on  July  Srd, 
High  and  I  may  declare  that  I  sallied  forth  in  the  best  of 
hopes.  spirits.  The  landscape  before  me  was  richly  planted 
with  wheat  and  mtama.  The  sun  lit  up  held  and  woodland,  and 
now  ]  was  at  last,  as  it  appeared,  beginning  in  earnest  the  great 
journey  towards  the  west.  It  appeared  that  I  was  about  to 
frustrate  definitely  the  calculations  that  had  sought  to  nullity 
my  expedition  at  Zanzibar  ;  and  this  tilled  me,  during  the  whole 
march,  with  a  sort  of  joyous  satisfaction. 

This  feeling-,  however,  was  much  diminished  when  1  came 


DIFFICULTIES    WITH   THE  PORTERS.  61 

to  think  over  the  result  of  this  first  day's  march.  Some  of  the 
asses  broke  down  under  badly-packed  loads  ;  but  the  greatest 
failure  was  in  the  discipline  of  the  porters.  I  had  arrived  at 
Kibokoni  at  half-past  twelve  o'clock  with  the  camels  and  a 
small  proportion  of  the  porters,  had  immediately  caused  my 
tent  to  be  set  up,  ordered  fires  for  cooking,  and  then  waited  for 
Herr  von  Tiedemann  and  the  rest  of  the  caravan.  Not  a  man 
appeared.  As  corn  for  cattle  and  men  was  not  to  be  had  at 
Kibokoni,  I  had  sent  at  once  to  Hidio,  distant  about  two  miles, 
to  purchase  grain.  Towards  half-past  two  Herr  Friedrich,  the 
owner  of  the  plantation  there,  appeared  at  my  tent, 
with  the  intelligence  that  he  could  supply  us  with  ^me'''^'' 
corn.  I  at  once  sent  two  camels  to  fetch  it.  Six  ^*"''^'''' 
o'clock  came,  and  then  at  length  Herr  von  Tiedemann  arrived, 
and  reported  that  a  portion  of  the  carriers  had  disappeared, 
or,  in  fact,  had  run  away,  manifestly  because  they  objected 
to  carrying  loads.  Thus  twenty  loads  had  remained  behind 
at  Hindi ;  the  other  portion  was  on  the  way  under  Friedenthal. 
I  at  once  ordered  two  camels  back  to  Hindi,  and  determined  to 
investigate  the  affair  thoroughly  next  day.  'Herr  von  Tiedemann 
had  to  return  to  Hindi  next  morning,  and  at  noon  brought  the 
last  loads,  with  the  news  that  there  were  no  more  porters  at 
Hindi.     They  must,  therefore,  have  arrived  at  Kibokoni. 

I  now  counted  our  loads  over,  with  the  list  in  my  hand, 
and  ascertained  afterwards  that  the  porters  were  all  actually 
present.  I  then  arranged  the  loads  in  three  heaps,  for  camels, 
donkeys,  and  porters  respectively,  and  thought  myself  sure  of 
my  affair  when,  at  two  o'clock,  I  gave  the  signal  for  Missing 
marching  onward  to  Mansamarabu.  But  again  thirty  ^°''^^- 
porters'  loads  were  left  behind.  The  experiences  of  the  previous 
day  had  determined  me  for  the  present  to  take  my  position  at 
the  rear  of  the  column,  and  I  accordingly  sent  Friedenthal 
forward  with  the  first  loads  and  a  few  soldiers.  The  way  from 
Kibokoni  to  Mansamarabu  leads  through  a  creek  which  is  not 
passable  for  beasts  of  burden.  The  way  for  these  leads  round 
the  creek,  and  takes  two  hours,  while  on  the  direct  road  only 
an  hour  to  an  hour  and  a  half  is  required.     After  starting  the 


62  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

porters  I  intended  to  march  with  the  beasts  of  burden  round 
the  creek.     At  three  o'clock  I  had  the  camels  put  in  motion, 
and  the  neighbourhood  was  scoured  for  my  porters.     As  a  few 
Deserting   Continued  to  come  in,  I  suspected  the  missing  ones  to 
porters.      ]jjg  gj.j|2  g^^  Kibokoui,  and  accordingly  left  Tiedemann 
behind  with  orders  to  bring  the  rest  of  the  column  by  the 
direct  road  to  Mansamarabu,  while  I  myself  started  with  the 
asses  at  four  o'clock.     Two  miles  short  of  the  place  some  laden 
asses  broke  down,  and  I  had  to  return  to  Kibokoni.     All  this 
was  very  discouraging.    At  five  o'clock  I  was  back  in  the  aban- 
doned camp.     I  immediately  sent  letters  to  the  Rust  column 
at  Hindi,  and  to  Friedenthal  at  Mansamarabu,  with  orders  to 
verify  the  number  of  porters,  and  to  send  all  that  were  present 
to  me.     I  then  had  my  tent  set  up  again,  and  passed  a  few 
very  uncomfortable  hours,  waiting  with  Herr  von  Tiedemann 
for    news.      At    eleven    o'clock    eighteen   porters    came   from 
Mansamarabu,  whom  I  sent  back  loaded  the  same  night,  under 
Herr  von  Tiedemann. 

Friday,  July  5th,  broke  dark  and  heavy  with  rain.  Early 
in  the  morning  came  thirty  to  forty  porters,  who  carried  the 
rest  of  the  things  quickly  away.  Thus  I  was  able  to  send  off 
the  donkeys  that  morning  with  quarter-loads,  and  at  half-past 
New  seven  I  mounted   my  horse    and    rode   rapidly  along 

recruits,  ^j^g  longer  road  round  the  creek  to  Mansamarabu. 
There  I  arrived  at  ten  o'clock,  completely  wet  through ;  found 
the  gentlemen  and  all  the  loads  waiting  ;  and  immediately  held 
a  general  muster  of  the  people. 

The  result  showed  that  all  the  porters  were  present.  It  was 
therefore  manifest  that  on  the  previous  day,  also,  a  number  of 
men  must  have  slunk  away  without  loads.  I  made  the  porters 
a  speech,  in  which  I  told  them  that  I  knew  the  good  people,  and 
also  the  bad  ones  ;  that  I  was  a  good  master  to  the  good  ones, 
Bewards  ^^*  ^^^^"^  *°  ^^^  ^^^  ones.  I  gave  double  pocho  to 
and  punish-the  men  who  had  carried  loads  the  previous  night,  and 

ments.  n     i  •      •  n        •  n  •  o      ' 

succeeded  m  identitymg  a  porter  who,  on  July  3rd,  had 
thrown  down  his  load  in  a  maize  field  and  run  back  to  Hindi. 
I  had  him  laid  in  chains  and  flogged  before  all  the  people.     In 


-,,'yH  ,       ^ 


ARRANGEMENTS  FOR   CAMPING.  63 

the  same  waj'  a  few  other  persons  were  punished,  concerning 
whom  I  could  prove  that  they  had  carried  no  loads  on  the 
previous  day.  I  now  announced  to  the  porters  a  scale  of 
punishments,  to  be  inflicted  for  running  away,  and  for  the 
throwing  down  of  loads.  This  communication,  which  was 
made  intelligible  on  the  spot  by  a  few  examples,  produced  a 
decided  impression.  I  concluded  this  memorable  display  by 
the  distribution  of  a  slaughtered  ox  and  the  meting  out  of  a 
measure  of  maize  to  each  man. 

At  five  o'clock  in  the  evening  I  assembled  the  people  again. 
Not  a  man  was  missing.  I  made  another  short  speech,  in  which 
I  communicated  the  following  command  :  "  Each  morning  at 
half-past  five  o'clock,  at  the  sound  of  the  trumpet, 
every  man  has  to  appear,  ihen  to  each  will  be  given  muBtering, 
his  load,  once  for  all.  At  a  quarter  before  six  the  * "" 
caravan  is  to  take  the  road  in  due  order  of  march.  On  arriving 
in  camp  every  load  is  to  be  given  up,  when  it  is  to  be  verified 
by  the  list  if  a  man  or  a  load  is  missing.  Each  load  is  num- 
bered, and  each  porter  has  his  load,  which  is  noted  in  the  list 
for  the  day." 

I  have  chronicled  these  arrangements  in  detail  because,  after 
their  introduction  on  July  5th,  essential  order  reigned  in  the 
caravan.  The  success  of  the  expedition  depended  in  a  great 
measure  upon  the  maintenance  of  this  order.  Some  amount  of 
time  was  still  requisite  before  my  expedition  had  so  accustomed 
itself  to  this  order  as  to  march,  to  a  certain  extent,  by  itself. 

Our    camp    at    Mansamarabu   presented    an    exceedingly 
picturesque  appearance.     Our  three  tents  had  been  set  up  in  a 
glorious  park,  under  splendid  mango  trees  and  baobabs.    Before 
my  tent,  which  stood  in  the  centre,  the  German  flag  ^^^  ^^ 
waved  on  the  right,  and,  so  long  as  we  were  in  the  Mansa- 
sultanate  of  Witu,  the  flag  of  Sultan  Tumo  Bakari  on 
the  left — white  and  red,  with  a  white  pentagram  in  a  red  field. 
Under  the  German  flag  the  artillery  was  placed,  guarded  night 
and  day  by  a  sentinel.     Behind  the  tents,  on  the  greens^yard, 
camels,  donkeys,  and  my  Arabian  horse  grazed.     Before  them 
the  loads  were  piled  up,   likewise   guarded  by  regular  posts 


64  XEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

of  Somali  soldiers.  Behind  these  are  the  houses  in  which  the 
porters  are  lodged,  in  many  cases  with  their  trim  young  wives, 
— strong,  robust  figures,  contrasting  advantageously  with  the 
Suahelis  of  Witu.  The  rain  of  the  morning  had  passed  over, 
and  we  were  sincerely  sorry  that  there  was  no  painter  present 
to  perpetuate  the  sunny  scene  by  a  sketch. 

During  that  day  Herr  Friedrich  from  Hidio  was  with  us 
again,  and  very  obligingly  related  for  our  benefit  his  experiences 
of  the  country  and  people.  On  the  following  morning  I  was 
Order  of  obliged  to  leave  Herr  von  Tiedemann  behind,  as  it 
maroii.  appeared  that  we  had  taken  eight  loads  too  many  of 
guns  with  ammunition  from  Rust's  camp  at  Hindi,  and  had  no 
porters  to  carry  them.  But  I  had  the  great  satisfaction  of 
seeing  that  the  last  porter  marched  with  his  load  at  six  o'clock ; 
that  at  seven  the  artillery  followed,  dragged  by  two  Gallas;  and 
that  in  the  course  of  certainly  two  hours  more  donkeys  and 
camels  went  away  loaded.  I  brought  up  the  rear  on  horseback, 
with  my  two  dogs.  Our  way  led  through  a  flat  country,  to 
which  its  flora  imparted  a  very  peculiar  character.  I  soon  rode 
past  the  beasts  of  burden,  which  I  knew  to  be  under  the  direc- 
tion of  trustworthy  Somalis,  and  was  alone  in  the  wilderness. 
Recollections  and  pictures  of  my  childhood's  days  arose  before 
me  involuntarily  in  this  charming,  blooming  landscape,  which 
is  overgrown  with  a  shrub  that  reminded  me  forcibly  of  our 
heath-plant,  and  on  which  bees  and  butterflies  were  hovering. 
Not  a  sound  breaks  the  solemn  silence.  Above  me  the  blue 
vault  of  heaven  is  spread  out,  under  which  an  eagle  soars  at 
intervals  in  sweeping  circles.  Thus  I  ride  onward  through  the 
Scenery  Saturday  afternoon.  My  dogs  soon  get  tired  of  hunt- 
and  sur-     ing  through  the  open  field  and  searching  for  game  in 

roundingB.        .  °  .      7      ^  i    i  •     n  i  ,      • 

vam,  so  they  trot  along  behmd  my  horse,  and  give 
the  soul  leisure  for  quiet  contemplation.  At  about  two 
o'clock  I  ride  past  Pemba,  where  the  ground  assumes  a  heavy 
character,  and  maize  and  wheat-fields  appear,  ranged  side  by 
side.  Here  I  dismount  for  a  moment,  let  my  horse  and  my 
dogs  have  some  water,  and  inquire  about  the  state  of  provisions 
at  Funga  Sombo  ("Tie  thy  bundle"),  the  goal  of  our  march 


A    MARCH   THROUGH  THE   WILDERNESS.  65 

for  to-day.  The  required  information  is  cheerfully  given,  and 
I  ride  further,  following  the  track  of  the  artillery.  At  a 
quarter  to  three  o'clock  the  road  leads  past  Massivatato  ("the 
three  lakes"),  and  a  quarter  of  an  hour  later  I  am  hailed  with 
joyous  shouts  by  my  porters,  who  have  already  found  quarters, 
and  of  their  own  accord  come  to  meet  me  with  fruits.  As 
they  had  done  their  duty  to-day,  I  caused  another  ox  to  be 
slaughtered,  and  the  meat  to  be  distributed  among  them. 

The  evening  was  passed  in  preparations  for  the  following 
day's  heavy  march  of  seven  or  eight  hours,  the  first  real 
achievement  for  the  heavily-laden  caravan.     I  secured 

■'    .  On  the 

a  lew  more  porters  to  assist,  and  commanded  the  march  to 
.march  for  Sunday,  July  7th,  to  begin  at  five  in  the 
morning.  At  that  hour  the  call  of  the  trumpet  resounded 
through  the  village,  and  immediately  after  the  porters  gathered 
together  beside  their  loads,  which  they  now  already  knew. 
At  a  quarter  to  six  the  last  porter  was  with  Herr  Friedenthal 
on  the  road  to  Witu  !  At  half-past  six  the  camels  and  donkej^s 
marched  away  with  the  last  packages.  I  was  just  going  to 
mount  my  horse,  when  it  was  announced  to  me  that  there 
were  people  from  Conumbi,  who  wanted  to  sell  me  a  camel. 
It  took  half-an-hour  to  conclude  the  bargain.  I  wrote  a  longer 
letter  to  Herr  von  Tiedemann,  to  whom  I  sent  the  purchased 
camel,  so  that  it  was  half-past  seven  o'clock  before  I  myself 
followed  my  caravan.  But  in  an  hour's  time  I  overtook  the 
donkeys,  and  soon  afterwards  the  camels,  which  I  could  for 
the  time  leave  behind  me,  as  they  were  under  secure  guard. 
I  rode  forward,  and  once  more  the  solemn  gloom  of  the  wilder- 
ness surrounded  me.  This  time  it  was  a  wilderness  indeed. 
The  Sultan  of  Witu  had  well  understood  how  to  secure  his  seat 
thoroughly  from  attack.  In  Funga  Sombo,  in  1855,  stood  the 
Arab  advanced  posts.  From  that  place  to  Witu  the  swamp 
way  leads  for  hours  through  swamp  and  forest.  The  *°*  '""'*• 
solitude  is  the  more  impressive,  as  it  is  not  broken  even  by  the 
cry  of  a  wild  animal.  I  had  been  told  at  Funga  Sombo  that 
the  region  abounded  with  lions  and  panthers,  and  that  only  a 
few  days  before  a  man  had  been  devoured  in  broad  daylight 

5 


(i6  XEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

by  a  lion  ;  so  that  I  had  already  made  up  my  mind  to  some 
interesting  occurrences.  But  not  a  solitary  animal  appeared. 
There  was,  however,  the  less  time  for  dreaming  to-day,  as  I 
had  soon  overtaken  my  porters,  and  had  to  give  a  few  direc- 
tions to  Herr  Friedenthal.  So  I  fell  back  again,  to  personally 
conduct  the  camels  and  donkeys  through  the  swamp.  To  make 
this  practicable,  I  had  to  get  a  way  made  through  the  forest, 
which  took  two  hours  to  do.  A  camel  fell  down  in  the  swamp, 
and  had  to  be  unloaded,  and  then  loaded  afresh.  Thus  it  was 
The  plain  three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  before  we  reached  the  real 
ofWitu.  plain  of  Witu.  Our  approach  to  that  place  was  made 
manifest  to  us,  in  the  first  instance,  by  thirty  soldiers  of  the 
Sultan,  who  came  to  bid  us  welcome  in  their  master's  name. 

About  a  mile  from  Witu  I  was  greeted  by  Sheriff  Abdallah,  a 
very  cultured  Suaheli,  accompanied  by  Herr  Doerfer,  an  official 
of  Herr  Denhardt,  who  also  bade  me  welcome.  I  sent  the 
caravan  forward  under  our  flag,  and  in  charge  of  Herr  Frieden- 
thal, and  determined  for  my  part  to  wait  for  the  camels,  which 
had  again  remained  behind.  But  as  soon  as  they  appeared  in 
sight  on  the  horizon  I  entered  the  smiling  valley  of  Witu,  in 
company  with  Herr  Doerfer.  Here  I  found  good  heavy  corn 
ground,  and  the  land  was  laid  out  in  maize  and  wheat  fields. 

Witu  itself  lies  on  a  slight  ridge  of  hills,  and  is  thoroughly 
surrounded  by  a  fastness  of  forest.  The  entrance  to  the  place 
Importance  is  by  two  gates  strongly  fortified,  with  sentries  keeping 
of  Witu.     gy^j.^  jj-g^^  ^^^  jj^y_    ^r.^^  j^g^g  perhaps  three  thousand 

inhabitants  ;  but,  by  the  number  of  civilised  Suahelis,  the  idea 
is  kept  alive  that  the  stranger  is  here  in  one  of  the  centres  of 
East  African  life.  The  court  does  not  afford  the  brilliant 
aspect  of  that  of  Zanzibar,  but  makes  a  more  satisfactory  im- 
pression through  the  general  and  patriarchal  unanimity  of  its 
constituents,  and  was  to  my  mind  more  interesting,  through 
the  elements  of  population  that  were  new  to  me.  Here  types 
of  Gallas  and  Somali  crowd  among  the  Suaheli,  and  beside 
these  appear  the  strange  head-dresses  of  the  Waboni,  and  the 
muscular  forms  of  the  Wapokomo. 

Amidst  an  enormous  thronging  of  the  crowd,  I  rode  into 


THE  FERTILE  COUNTRY  OF   WITU.  67 

Witu.  I  noticed  our  flag  hoisted  in  front  of  a  house,  and 
learnt  that  the  Sultan  had  put  at  the  disposal  of  our  people 
four  houses,  and  an  ox  for  their  entertainment.     I  re-  „  , 

Snltau 

quested  Herr  Doerfer  to  ohlige  me  by  going  at  once  to  rumo 
Fumo  Bukari,  to  report  my  arrival,  to  thank  him,  and 
announce  my  intention  of  paying  him  a  visit  on  the  morrow. 
Fumo  Bukari  conveyed  to  me  the  expression  of  his  satisfaction 
at  my  arrival,  and  his  desire  that  I  should  always  make  him 
acquainted  with  my  wishes,  for  that  I  was  a  welcome  guest, 
and  he  would  be   glad  to  receive  me  to-morrow  morning  at 
nine  o'clock.     When  I  had  seen  my  people  settled,  I  went  with 
Herr  Doerfer  to  his  country  house,  which  was  about  twelve 
minutes  distant,  to  seek  a  place  wherein  to  quarter  the  camels 
and  my  horse.     Meanwhile  I  had  the  tents  set  up  in  the  largest 
open  square.     After  Herr  Doerfer  and  I  had  taken  a  bath,  we 
returned  to  my  tent,  where  we  supped  together  in  exceedingly 
good  spirits. 

The  sultanate  of  Witu,  which  I  have  traversed  chiefly  in  a 
direction  from  north  to  south,  appears  in  its  whole  extent  as 
a  very  flat  country,   well  cultivated  here  and  there.  g^.g^tjgtijg 
In  its  northern  part  it  is  manifestly  less  fertile  than  of  thewuu 

.  Ill  J?  •     T.       svdtanate. 

in  the  southern  portion,  and  probably  no  part  or  it  has 
the  luxuriance  that  is  found  in  southern  districts,  as,  for 
instance,  in  Usambara.  The  population,  too,  is  generally  poor. 
Only  in  a  few  places  did  I  find  possessors  of  large  herds,  whose 
property  could  be  estimated  at  a  hundred  thousand  rupees. 
The  native  inhabitants  generally  present  a  feeble  aspect,  which 
may  be  chiefly  ascribed  to  insufficient  nourishment.  Especially 
noticeable  to  persons  coming  from  Zanzibar  is  the  reversal  of 
the  usual  credit  system,  which  is  carried  out  to  the  smallest 
detail.  When  I  want  to  buy  cocoa-nuts  or  any  other  trifling 
article,  I  must  first  lay  down  the  money  on  the  table,  and  then 
my  purchase  is  handed  over  to  me.  If  I  order  any  work  to  be 
done  for  me  by  an  artisan,  he  demands  payment  in  advance. 
On  the  other  hand,  he  himself  takes  each  and  every  article 
from  the  European,  on  credit.  All  this  makes  a  very  poor 
impression.    On  the  whole,  I  feel  convinced  that  the  productive 


68  XEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

power  of  the  country  might  be  verj-  much  increased  if  the 
conditions  of  labour  were  more  favourable.  There  can  be 
no  question  that  the  ground,  at  certain  points,  can  produce 
anything.  The  natural  flatness  of  the  country,  with  arms  of 
the  sea  intersecting  it  deeply  everywhere,  also  presents  favour- 
able conditions  for  transport.  If  greater  powers  of  capital  were 
brought  to  bear  here,  a  very  rapid  development  of  culture 
might  be  expected.  The  hopes,  however,  with  which  I  once 
regarded  the  back  regions  of  Witu  have  proved  to  be  entirely 
erroneous.  Witu  is  nothing  more  than  an  oasis  in  the  great 
East  African  steppe,  thrusting  a  line  of  cultivation,  along  the 
Tana,  into  the  steppe  itself. 

On  Monday,  July  8th,  I  for  the  first  time  met  the  ruler  of 
this  territory.  The  Sultan  Fumo  Bukari  had  fixed  the  hour 
A  grand  of  nine  in  the  morning  for  my  reception.  I  resolved 
rec^eption  ^^  ^jj-g  gccasion,  SO  far  as  I  possibly  could,  to  show 
council.  ]^jjj^  tjig  honour  due  to  a  prince  acknowledged  by  Ger- 
many. Consequently  I  caused  my  soldiers  to  march  out,  with 
the  German  banner  and  the  Sultan's  flag  at  their  head.  They 
were  made  to  present  arms  when  we  entered  the  Sultan's  house 
and  when  we  quitted  it.  The  highest  officials  of  the  court, 
Sheriff  Abdallah,  and  the  first  officer  of  the  Sultan's  troop, 
Omar  Hamadi,  came  to  fetch  me  ;  the  latter  wore  the  uniform  of 
a  Prussian  officer  of  artillery.  I  had  put  two  of  my  servants 
into  rich  red  Cavasse  uniforms  embroidered  with  silver ;  they 
had  to  follow  me,  bearing  the  presents  for  Fumo  Bukari — a 
handsomely  gilded  Arab  sword,  with  a  real  Jehalla  blade,  and 
two  unused  Dreysesch  repeating  guns  of  the  newest  construc- 
tion, with  three  hundred  cartridges.  I  was  accompanied  by 
Herr  Doerfer  and  Herr  Friedenthal.  The  Sultan,  on  his  part, 
had  about  forty  soldiers  on  guard  to  receive  us,  and  welcomed 
us  surrounded  by  his  whole  court.  His  stone  house,  indeed, 
made  a  very  plain  effect ;  but  the  assembly  did  not  materially 
differ  from  the  surroundings  of  the  Sultan  of  Zanzibar  on 
similar  occasions. 

Fumo  Bukari  came  as  far  as  the  door  to  meet  me,  and 
conducted  me  to  an  armchair  on  the  left  of  his  raised  seat ; 


PREPARING  FOR   THE  START.  69 

a  chair  similar  to  mine  on  his  right  being  occupied  by  the  heir 
to  the  throne,  a  brother  of  the  Sultan.     Fumo  Bukari  is  a  man 
of  about  forty,  with  a  gentle,  benevolent  expression  of  r„„io 
countenance.     His  conversation  was  in  the  Kiswahali  f"''^"'^. 

-  -,    .  .  declaration 

language,  and  its  subject  was  naturally  the  purpose  of  of  friend- 
my  expedition,  which  the  Sultan  promised  to  further,  ^^^' 
so  far  as  he  could.  At  my  request  he  at  once  granted  me  a 
written  order  to  his  elders  to  forward  Rust's  column  directly 
to  Witu.  He  also  declared  himself  willing  to  furnish  Tana 
boats  for  me  ;  and  in  general  he  repeated  his  message  of  the 
day  before,  that  I  was  to  let  him  know  each  of  my  wishes,  for 
that  he  was  too  good  a  German  not  to  be  ready  to  meet  them 
in  every  particular. 

The  audience  lasted  an  hour,  and  during  the  rest  of  the  day 
the  great  men  of  the  place  hastened,  one  after  another,  to  pay 
their  visits.  Some  of  them  were  truly  cultivated  and  dignified 
men.  The  same  evening  I  ordered  my  camels  back  to  Hindi, 
with  the  Sultan's  letter,  to  bring  up  Rust's  column  to  Witu. 

On  the  following  day  I  had  the  satisfaction  of  seeing  Herr 
Tiedemann  arrive  at  Witu  with  the  baggage  that  had  been  left 
behind ;  so  that  my  own  column  was  now  reunited.  I  now 
took  the  greatest  pains  to  strengthen  myself  as  much  as 
possible  ;  but  it  soon  became  apparent  that  porters  were  not 
to  be  had  at  Witu  in  anything  like  sufficient  numbers,  prepara- 
and  that  as  a  point  of  support  to  an  expedition,  the  ^^'"^^  ^^^ 

.  .  .  ■    II      precau- 

country  was  not  in  any  direction  sufficient.  I  especially  tionsfor 
noticed  how  small  was  the  knowledge  of  the  territory  *  ^^'"'  ' 
of  the  Tana,  and  of  the  whole  back  districts  of  Witu  generally. 
The  land  resembles  an  island  which  has  no  communication  at 
the  back.  The  intelligence,  also,  that  I  had  obtained  from  a 
few  Gallas  and  Wapokomo  in  Witu,  afterwards  proved  utterly 
inaccurate,  and  indeed  mendacious.  So  much  was  perfectly 
clear  at  Witu,  that  I  must  seek  other  points  of  support  for 
carrying  out  my  expedition,  perhaps  on  the  Upper  Tana  or 
further  in  the  interior,  if  I  would  hope  to  reach  my  goal,  the 
Equatorial  Province.  All  this  was  not  encouraging  ;  T  often 
had  the  feeling  as  if  everything  I  arranged  turned  out  against 


70  XE]V  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

me,  and  eveiy  day  the  doubt  pressed  heavily  upon  me,  whether 
it  would  not,  after  all,  be  better  to  give  the  affair  up.  Actuated 
by  these  feelings  I  wrote  on  July  20th  to  the  committee : — 

"I  have  the  honour  on  this  occasion  to  repeat  the  declara- 
tion I  made  from  Alexandria,  that  I  will  carry  on  the  under- 
Eeport  taking  to  the  very  utmost  bounds  of  possibility.  In 
German  ^^^  Summer  of  1888  I  maturely  considered  the  ques- 
committee.  tion  whether  I  should  undertake  the  task.  ^JVow  that 
heaven  and  earth  seem  to  rise  up  against  me,  the  committee 
may  be  assured  that  I  know  my  duty." 

In  the  same  report  I  added : — 

"  This  one  remark  I  still  wish  to  make :  If  our  expedi- 
tion succeeds,  I  certainly  believe  that  the  almost  overwhelming 
opposition  will,  in  fact,  contribute  to  make  it  useful  to  Germany. 
For  England  the  whole  course  of  events  till  now,  the  motives  of 
action  being  known,  is  plainly  a  humiliation.  I  do  not  believe 
that  this  will  be,  or  can  be  appreciated  in  Germany, — the  whole 
inimical  press-manufacture  from  above  and  below  will  take  care 
of  that;  but  in  spite  of  this  it  is  fortunate  for  us  that  the  German 
Emin  Pasha  undertaking  has,  after  all,  not  succumbed  to  the 
English  counteracting  efforts.  And  this  much  I  will  answer 
for,  that  we  shall  not  experience  the  fate  of  the  English  expe- 
ditions into  the  interior.  We  may  perish,  but  in  somewhat 
different  fashion  from  Messrs.  Jackson,  Last,  and  Martin." 

I  had  to  remain  waiting  at  Witu  throughout  almost  the 
whole  month  of  July  ;  partly  because  I  still  hoped  to  procure 
porters  from  Lamu,  and  furthermore  because  I  heard  that,  in 
stay  at  ^his  mouth,  there  was  no  possibility  of  supporting  even 
■^i*'^'  a  small  expedition  on  the  Tana.  It  was  requisite  to 
buy  corn  from  the  Arabs  on  the  coast,  and  to  transport  it  for 
me  to  Engatana,  to  convey  it  up  the  stream  in  boats,  alongside 
of  the  caravan,  if  I  wished  to  undertake  an  advance  in  that 
direction.     All  this  required  time. 

The  constituents  of  my  expedition,  as  I  at  last  made  it  up 
by  the  exertion  of  all  my  forces,  were  as  follows  : 

I.  Sixteen  camels.  2.  Eight  donkeys.  3.  One  riding  horse. 
4.  Two  dogs.     5.  Eighty-five  porters  (on.  paper  :  the  worshipful 


CHEERFUL  DAYS  AT  WITU.  71 

porters  from  Witu,  as  a  rule,  took  to  their  heels  very  soon  after 
receiving  their  payment  in  advance,  which  I  was  not  able 
fully  to  ascertain  until  the  day  before  my  departure). 
6.  Thirteen  women— porters'  wives,  who  only  carried  ofth?*'' 
the  private  baggage  of  their  lords.  7.  Twenty-five  *^p'*"^°°- 
Somalis  (twenty-one  soldiers  and  four  camel  drivers*);  of 
these  I  took  twelve  soldiers  and  four  camel  drivers  for  my 
column,    the    others   remained    for   Lieutenant-Captain   Rust. 

8.  Eight  private  servants  (including  cook's  boys,  cook,  etc.). 

9.  I  had  engaged  Hamiri,  a  Lamu  man,  as  a  guide. 

With  this  force  I  had  to  move  one  hundred  and  fifty  to 
one  hundred  and  sixty  loads.  At  Witu  this  did  not  appear 
a  very  difficult  task  ;  but  it  soon  became  manifest  how  un- 
certain transport  by  camels  was.  Already  in  Engatana  I  lost, 
on  the  whole,  six  camels ;  and  on  the  Lower  Tana  the  porters 
also  were  quickly  reduced  by  desertion  to  their  original 
number  of  sixty.  While  I  lay  encamped  at  Witu,  Herr  Clemens 
Denhardt  arrived  there,  with  Herr  von  Karnap,  Herr  Gustav 
Denhardt,  and  Herr  Gerstaecker,  whereby  our  social  life 
became  a  very  lively  and  stirring  one,  especially  as  Lieutenant- 
Captain  Rust  also  made  his  appearance  during  the  second 
week  of  my  stay.  These  gentlemen  were  with  us  pieasant 
almost  every  day,  and  in  the  evening  the  soldiers  of  intereoirse. 
the  Sultan,  and  also  my  Mangemas  and  Wangamwesi,  used  to 
entertain  us  with  war  dances.  I  look  back  upon  these  weeks 
at  Witu  with  a  kind  of  mournful  pleasure.  It  was,  in  a  certain 
way,  the  last  glimmer  of  European  life  that  played  around  us. 
Often  during  the  expedition  we  looked  longingly  back  on  the 
comfort  and  sociability  which  here  for  the  last  time  brightened 
our  days. 

*  One  of  my  camel-Somalis  had  committed  suicide  at  Witu.  One  evening 
he  had  stolen  a  sheep  from  me.  Accordingly,  the  next  morning  I  called  the 
Somalis  together,  and  explained  to  them  that  I  would  have  nothing  to  do 
with  thieves ;  I  should  load  the  thief  with  chains,  and  in  that  condition  send 
him  back  to  Aden  to  be  punished.  The  Somahs  declared  themselves  ready  to 
execute  the  order.  When  they  approached  the  criminal  he  shot  himself 
through  the  head  with  the  rifle,  which  he  fired  off  with  his  toe. 


72  XEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

A  veiy  interesting  and  useful  incident  for  me,  during  my 
residence  at  ^Yitu,  was  the  appearance  of  an  embassy  of  the 
Kawallala  Somalis,  which  came  to  negotiate  with  the  Sultan 
concerning  the  opening  of  a  free  road  of  commerce  towards 
Wanga.  These  Kawallala  Somalis  dwell  between  Djuba  and 
Tana,  and  have  of  late  also  spread  southward  across  the  Tana 
iTegotia-  in  their  warlike  expeditions.  They  press  more  and 
commercial  more  upon  the  Gallas,  who  are  compelled  to  retire 
""*^-  step  by  step  before  them.  It  is  like  a  powerful 
flood,  which  will  probably  only  be  arrested  by  the  strong  dam 
of  the  Massai  kingdom.  On  the  Lower  Tana  all  tremble 
before  these  tribes,  and  only  the  Witu  sultanate  itself  forms 
the  strong  rampart  before  which  they  stop.  In  view  of  the 
breech-loaders  of  the  Witu  soldiers,  these  worthies,  as  we  have 
said,  condescend  to  negotiation ;  whereas,  in  general,  they 
simply  take  whatever  they  have  a  mind  to.  On  July  10th 
twenty-three  warriors,  under  Sheriff  Hussein,  arrived  at  Witu. 
On  that  day  there  was  no  milk  to  be  had  in  Witu,  because  all 
the  Gallas,  notwithstanding  that  they  were  under  the  protection 
of  the  Sultan,  had  fled  in  panic  terror  into  the  woods,  with 
their  herds,  before  the  Somalis. 

With  us  the  Somalis  endeavoured  at  once  to  enter  into 
friendly  relations.  At  the  news  of  their  approach,  my  Man- 
Friendiy  gemas,  my  Central  African  porters,  had  rushed  to 
tions"onhe  their  weapons  without  orders,  and  my  soldiers  had 
somahs.  loaded  the  cannon  to  receive  these  wild  visitors.  Thus 
our  camp  made  a  very  warlike  appearance  when  the  Kawallala 
went  past ;  and  this  did  not  fail  to  produce  its  effect.  On 
July  11th  Sheriff  Hussein  also  appeared  with  all  his  people,  to 
pay  his  respects  and  conclude  a  treaty  of  amity  with  me.  He 
said  his  tribe  had  heard  of  my  landing  at  Kwaihu,  and  the 
Sultan,  Ali  Nurr,  had  especially  ordered  him  to  convey  to  me 
the  friendship  of  this  tribe.  I  assured  him  of  the  high 
value  I  had  always  set  on  the  friendship  of  the  Somalis,  and 
added  that  it  had  been  my  intention  to  march  through  their 
country,  but  that  the  way  was  shorter  to  my  goal  through 
Witu  ;  that  he  was  perhaps  aware  that  the  Somalis  were  not 


TREATY  WITH  SHERIFF  HUSSEIN.  73 

popular  in  Europe,  but  I  hoped  he  had  heard  that  I  had  always 
been  their  friend,  and  had  consequently  already  several  times 
sent  expeditions  to  them.  Sheriff  Hussein  replied,  that  this 
was  known  to  him  and  to  all  the  Somalis,  and  therefore  now 
also  they  would  help  me.  My  enemies,  he  said,  were  theirs, 
and  whoever  was  my  friend  should  be  reckoned  by  the  Somalis 
as  their  friend  likewise.  I  rejoined,  that  I  hoped  I  conversa- 
should  not  stand  in  need  of  help  ;  let  him  look  at  my  sm"^ 
arms  and  my  artillery.  It  was  strong  enough  to  over-  Hussein, 
come  every  attack  by  force ;  but  what  I  wanted  was  stores- 
oxen  and  camels.  I  knew  that  his  tribe  ruled  over  the 
countries  to  the  west,  between  Djuba  and  Tana.  I  was  about 
to  ti-avel  in  that  direction,  and  requested  him  to  provide  me 
with  cattle  and  camels  for  purchase,  and  with  good  guides  to 
the  Kenia.  Sheriff  Hussein  promise'd  he  would  take  counsel 
with  his  people  concerning  these  matters. 

In  the  days  next  following  we  had  various  consultations, 
and  the  result  was  that  the  Sheriff  declared  himself  ready  to 
sell  me  five  camels  immediately,  and  to  have  more  driven 
together  for  my  inspection.  He  declared  himself  especially 
anxious,  as  he  dwelt  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Oda- Hussein-s 
Boru-Ruva,  that  I  should  remain  neutral  in  a  cam-S^*'""' 
paign  against  the  English  that  he  was  planning.  The  ^"^"■"^y- 
English,  he  declared,  had  shot  one  of  his  people,  and  it  was 
consequently  a  matter  of  honour  that  he  should  make  war 
upon  them.  That,  therefore,  was  the  reason  why  the  Kawallala 
afterwards  scattered  Mr.  Smith's  expedition. 

I  have  never  had  to  fight  with  the  Somalis,  and  this  I 
attribute  to  the  treaty  of  peace  which  was  set  up  in  writing 
between  me  and  Sheriff  Hussein,  and  was  concluded  on  the 
last  day  of  my  stay  at  Witu ;  wherein  the  Somalis  expressly 
acknowledged  that  they  would  recognise  me  not  only  as  their 
friend,  but,  if  I  demanded  it,  as  their  leader  also.  Several 
times,  when  the  affairs  of  our  expedition  on  the  Lower  Tana 
were  in  a  desperate  state,  I  entertained  the  idea  of  betaking 
myself  to  these  Somali  tribes,  in  case  things  should  come  to 
the  worst,  and  to  try  if  it  were  not  possible  to  excite  them  to 


74  MEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

a  march  against  the  Massais,  and  lead  them  to  Wadelai.  The 
further  course  of  events  happily  obviated  the  necessity  of 
adopting  this  measure. 

Sheriff  Hussein  is  a  tall  and  dignified  figure  of  a  man,  with 
an  entirely  European  cast  of  countenance,  sparkling  eyes,  and 
Appearance  prominent  nose.  His  face  is  surrounded  with  a  full, 
aufhir^"^  close-cut  beard.  Like  him,  the  other  envoys  of  the 
followers.  Kawallala  tribe  were  of  slender  and  elastic  build,  re- 
cognisable from  afar  by  their  haughty  gait  and  cavalierlike 
bearing ;  born  warriors  and  commanders !  They  wore  their 
hair  long,  parted  in  the  middle,  and  falling  in  ringlets  upon  their 
shoulders,  so  that  they  had  almost  the  appearance  of  wearing 
full-bottomed  wigs.  They  created  an  impression  by  their  be- 
haviour, similar  to  that  made  by  the  proud  Elmoran  of  the 
Massais.  The  presence  of  a  certain  courteousness  in  their 
manner  makes  their  inborn  pride  appear  the  more  plainly. 
On  the  day  of  my  departure  from  Witu  they  performed  a  war- 
dance  to  my  honour,  in  which  was  expressed,  in  a  very  charac- 
teristic way,  the  ultimate  destruction  of  certain  presumptuous 
foes. 

After  various  postponements  I  had  at  last  fixed  upon  July 
26th  as  the  day  of  my  departure.  To  secure  a  firm  point  of 
support  in  Witu,  and  especially  with  a  view  to  Rust's  column,  I 
had  invested  Herr  Clemens  Denhardt  with  the  management  of 
our  expedition  there,  and  had  also  opened  a  credit  for  him  with 
Pre  ara  Hansings  at  Zanzibar.  I  hoped  that,  before  all  things, 
tions  for  Denhardt  would  get  the  loads  of  the  Rust  column  sent 
for  me  to  Ngao  on  the  Tana,  and  from  thence  by  boat 
up  to  Oda-Boru-Ruva,  where  I  purposed  to  wait  for  the  said 
column.  With  respect  to  my  own  column,  I  had  requested 
Herr  Clemens  Denhardt  to  send  me  a  hundred  loads  of  corn, 
and  the  necessary  transport  boats,  to  Engatana,  to  enable  me 
to  lead  my  men  along  the  course  of  the  Tana. 

On  July  25th  it  was  reported  to  me  that  the  loads  were 
lying  ready  for  me  at  Engatana  ;  and  now  there  was  no  longer 
any  reason  further  to  delay  my  departure  from  Witu.  On  that 
day  I  parted  from  Herr  Friedenthal,  who  wished  to  go  back  to 


READY  FOR   THE  MARCH.  75 

Zanzibar,  and  definitely  appointed  Herr  von  Tiedemann  to  my 
column.     With  him  alone  I  intended,  in  the  first  instance,  to 
march  up  to  the  Gallas  on  the  Upper  Tana,  a  territory  which, 
according  to  Ravenstein's  maps,  which  we  had  before  us,  would 
lie  close  to  the  eastern  declivities  of  the  Kenia.     This  after- 
wards proved  to  be  a  very  gross  blunder.     On  July  25th  my 
column  was  quite  ready  for  the  march  ;  all  loads  were  packed, 
and  according  to  the  estimated  amount  of  my  carrying  Prosperous 
powers,  I  had  even  reserve  porters  at  my  disposal,  l^^^^^'^^^ 
My  Somalis  were  under  good  discipline,  and  nine  of  column, 
them  were  armed  with  repeating  rifles,  for  which  I  carried  with 
me  two  thousand  rounds  of  ball  cartridge.     For  my  little  bush- 
piece   J  had  one  hundred  rounds  of  grapeshot  and  the  same 
number  of  bombshells.     I  myself  carried  a  capital  express  rifle 
by  H.  Lenne,  in  Berlin,  with  Mauser  cartridges,  besides  a  double 
shot  gun,  a  Lancaster  repeater,  and  a  six-barrelled  revolver. 
Herr  von  Tiedemann  was  armed  in  the  same  way.     The  rest 
of  my  Somalis  and  my  private   servants  and  a  few  reliable 
porters  I  armed   with   breech-loaders,  for  which  I  had   un- 
fortunately allowed  myself  to  be  persuaded  in  Europe  to  take 
•cartridges  with  paper  cases.     Besides  this,  every  porter  carried 
a  serviceable  muzzle-loader,  and  for  these  I  had  five  Efficient 
loads  of  cartridges,  and  in  case  of  need  five  hundred  *""=''°«"i*' 
pounds  of  powder,  which  I  had  certainly,  in  the  first  instance, 
brought  with  me  for  Emin  Pasha.     Thus,  small  as  our  number 
was,  we  were  well  enough  equipped ;  and  if  I  could  only  manage 
fully  and  properly  to  discipline  this  column,  and  if  the  neces- 
sary resolution  and  prudence  in  the  leading  of  it,  on  which 
everything  principally  depended,  were  not   wanting,  I    might 
venture  to  push  forward  into  the  land  of  the  Somalis  and  Gallas, 
and  whatever  might  lie  behind  them. 

To  do  this  I  was  now  resolved ;  and  on  the  afternoon  of 
July  25th  I  took  my  leave  of  Fumo  Bukara,  to  whom  I  declared  : 
"  Nitapeleka  bandera  ako  katika  barani  " — "  I  shall  carry  your 
flag  into  the  wilderness."  In  the  evening  all  the  Europeans  in 
Witu  were  assembled  at  my  quarters  to  celebrate  our  leave- 
taking  once  more.     The  Somalis  had  organised  a  great  dance 


76 


A7:ir   1.I(;I1T   (IX    DAIIK   AFlirCA. 


on  the  space  in  front  of  my  tent  in  honour  of  this  partini;-,  the 
melodies  ol'  which  have  also  accompanied  me  throughout  the 
exjieditiiin.  Early  on  tlie  morning  of  July  2f)th  the  trumpet 
sounded  through  the  streets  of  Witu,  summoning  my  people  to 
the  march,  and  shortly  after  six  o'clock  Herr  von  Tiedemanu 
led  forth  the  porters  into  the  steppe  which  divides  the  sultanate 
||f^Vitu  from  the  Tana,  marching  towards  Engatana. 

Departure  ~  _ 

forEnga-  I  had  still  Ijusiuess  in  the  house  of  Herr  Clemens 
Denhardt,  where  I  gave  my  final  directions  to  Lieuten- 
ant-Captain Rust,  settled  accounts  with  the  Somalis,  and  ordered 
ten  camels  to  be  packed.  At  eight  o'clock  T  gave  instructions 
for  the  camels  to  start,  and  rode  forward  myself  at  a  sharp 
trot,  after  Herr  von  Tiedemann,  towards  the  camping-ground 
that  had  been  agreed  upon.  The  die  was  now  cast.  When  once 
I  had  left  the  gates  of  Witu  behind,  there  was  no  way  back  for 
me  but  by  the  circuitous  route  across  the  Tana,  Baringo,  Nile, 
and.  Clod  willing,  through  the  Equatorial  Province. 


iNSTEUCTINfi   THE    SOMALIS. 


CHAPTER   IV 

UP  THE  TANA  TO  TEE  GALLAS. 

''"     ■      '= .      .  And,  lie  thou  counscU'd, 

Love  not  the  sun  too  dearly,  nor  the 
istars." — (Goethe.) 


~VTTHEN  I  broke  up  ni}'  camp 
V\        nu  July  26th  I  had  the 
iDtention  of  marching  from\Altu 
straight   upon  E'ligatana.      The 
Suaheli  there  had  given  me  ac- 
curate information  with  regard 
to  the  road,  and  had  declared  to 
me  that  I  could  quite  Avell  reach 
Engatana    in    Avhat   would   cer- 
tainly   be    a    somewhat    severe 
day's  march.     As,  however,  this 
had  been  represented  to  me  ^^^ 
in  other  quarters  as  doubt-  first  day's 

*  .,       ,  ,     march. 

Ill],  and  a  first  day  s  march 
always   brings    with  it   a  numlier   oi'  unex- 
pected hindrances  and  difficulties,  I  had  determined  once  more 
to    set   u]i    my    camp,    for  July    26th,    in    the    neighbourhood 
of  Witu,   at    a   distauce    of  from    five    to    seven  miles,    in    a 


78  \EW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

plantation  belonging  to  the  Sultan  Fumo  Bukari,  and  I  had 
issued  instructions  to  Herr  von  Tiedemann  accordingly. 

After  the  camels  had  been  loaded,  I  hastened  on,  alternately 

at  a  trot  and  a  gallop,  behind  the  porters,  to  make  the  necessary 

arrangements  myself  for  the  pitching  of  the  first  camp. 

menUn'     I  arrived  at  the  Sultan's  country  seat,  but  no  expedi- 

thevauey.  ^.^^  ^^^^^  ^^  ^^  ^^^^  there.     I  was  informed  that  the 

column  had  betaken  itself  into  the  forest,  in  a  north-westerly 
direction.  Towards  twelve  o'clock  I  came  up  with  it,  and 
Herr  von  Tiedemann  reported  to  me  that,  in  consequence  of 
the  peculiar  features  of  the  ground,  as  the  Suaheli  had  pre- 
dicted, a  further  advance  in  the  direction  we  had  taken  seemed 
to  him  impracticable  for  the  camels,  and  he  therefore  proposed 
to  me  that  we  should  halt  for  to-day  at  the  place  we  had 
reached,  there  being  water  in  the  neighbourhood.  It  was  a 
charming  valley  in  which  we  found  ourselves :  on  the  left  a 
declivity,  along  which  a  watercourse  took  its  way ;  on  the  right 
a  gradually  rising  ground,  covered  with  maize  and  mtana. 
Though  with  some  reluctance,  I  made  up  my  mind  to  act  upon 
Herr  von  Tiedemann's  proposal,  and  gave  orders  to  pile  the 
loads  and  set  up  the  tents. 

These  operations,  during  the  first  days  of  our  march,  were 
always  carried  out  with  a  certain  slowness,  as  the  people  had 
Doubts  and  ^'^t  been  sufiiciently  schooled  in  the  art  of  setting  up 
difficulties,  jjjg  teuts.  On  this  occasion  the  circumstance  was 
added,  that  some  very  high  grass  had  to  be  cleared  away 
before  a  place  could  be  gained  for  the  tent ;  and  so  we  sat 
on  our  boxes,  in  the  burning  sun,  in  a  somewhat  depressed 
frame  of  mind.  The  discouraging  thing  was  the  fact  that  if  the 
Suaheli  of  Witu  were  not  able  to  give  us  accurate  particulars 
even  concerning  the  way  to  Engatana,  it  could  hardly  be 
expected  that  what  I  had  heard  from  them  with  respect  to 
the  Tana  regions  would  have  any  practical  significance.;  and 
that  therefore  the  march  into  these  regions  to  a  certain  extent 
meant  a  leap  in  the  dark,  which  for  an  expedition  like  ours  is 
generally  extremely  dangerous.  For  in  such  expeditions,  in 
the  end,  everything  depends  on  the  disposition  of  the  porters, 


CAMP  LIFE  AND  ITS  PLEASURES.  79 

on  which  the  leader  has  altogether  to  rely.  But  the  porter, 
on  his  part,  is  exceedingly  sensitive  until  he  has  become  bound 
to  the  leader  personally,  and  unfavourable  impressions  during 
the  first  days  may  easily  once  and  for  all  decide  the  fate  of  an 
expedition.  I  was  always  conscious  of  the  fact  that  there  were 
in  no  direction  any  reserves  for  me,  and  that  I  must  therefore 
only  reckon  upon  the  materials  I  had  immediately  in  my  hand  ; 
and  that  was  little  enough  in  comparison  with  the  extent  of  the 
journey  before  us.  However,  immediate  exertion  was  effectual 
then,  as  always,  in  banishing  such  moods  of  discouragement. 

I  at  once  sent  back  to  Witu  to  procure  that  very  day  a 
guide  to  Ngao,  as  the  road  to  Engatana  was  impracticable. 
This  certainly  involved  a  circuit  that  would  cost  us  two  or 
three  days  ;  but,  in  proportion  to  the  periods  of  time  we  had 
now  to  take  into  consideration,  that  was  practically  of  no 
importance.  Meanwhile  the  encampment  had  been  completed, 
my  Central  African  porters  had  built  up  their  huts  of  wood 
and  leaves  in  a  remarkably  short  time,  and  when  I  had  had 
an  ox  slaughtered,  the  whole  assembly  was  soon  busy  cooking, 
and  in  remarkably  good  spirits.  I  myself  was  gratified,  in  the 
afternoon,  by  the  appearance  of  a  Witu  Suaheli  of  rank,  Buana 
the  Wall  of  this  district,  Buana  Shamo  by  name,  who  ^s^V^"' 
announced  to  me  that  the  guide  would  be  with  me  sii^e. 
that  very  evening.  He  himself  remained,  with  his  wife,  as 
my  guest  in  the  camp,  until  my  departure. 

Towards  evening  there  arrived  also  in  the  camp  from  Witu 
Herren  Denhardt,  Doerfer,  and  Friedenthal ;    and  it  was,  in 
truth,  for  all  of  us,  an  equally  picturesque  and  pleasing  ^^^  ^^ 
sight  to  view  the  men  of  the  column  encamped  in  the  of  camp 
wilderness  round  their  many  fires,  with    the  various 
groups  feasting,  singing,  and  narrating  adventures.     It  was,  for 
the  first  time,  a  real  inland  African  expedition,  now  that  we 
were  clear  of  the  civilised  districts  of  the  Witu  sultanate.     It 
was  the  poetry  of  camp  life  that  we  had  now  before  us.     Un- 
fortunately, the  pleasant  impression  of  this  fresh  picture  was  in 
some  measure  disturbed  by  the  announcement  of  the  Somalis, 
that  one  of  the  sixteen  camels  I  had  with  me  had  strayed  from 


80 


XEW   LIGHT   ON  JKIRK   AFRICA. 


the  pasture-ground  m  thi'  forest,  aud  was  not  to  be  found.  As 
I  did  not  lite  to  abandon  this  camel  to  its  fate,  I  determined 
A  prosaic  to  postpoue  the  march  from  this  place  lor  a  Aay,  and 
loss.  ijj,  (ii^,  ^lext  moruini";  to  try  every  means  to  find  the 

animal  in  the  forest,  which  did  not  appear  a  very  difficult 
matter.  It  was  only  necessary  to  tVdlow  up  its  traces  ;  and  if 
we  did  not  get  hold  of  it,  we  should  at  least  satisfy  ourselves  as 


EuKUA,  First  Servant  to  Dr.  Peters. 

to  its  fate, — if,  for  instance,  it  should  have  fallen  a  prey  to  some 
wild  beast  during  the  night.  And,  in  truth,  that  very  evening 
the  Wali  sent  intelligence  to  his  slaves,  who  appeared  in  the 
camp  next  morning,  as  early  as  ten  o'clock,  with  the  missing 
camel,  that  had  been  somewhat  severely  hurt  with  the  thorns, 
and  had  lost  its  saddle  into  the  bargain. 

This  July  27th,  a  Saturday,  was  proljably  in  every  respect 
a  joyful  day  lor  Herr  vou  Tiedemann,  as  it  was  for  me.     Herr 


PREPABING  FOR  A   LONG  MARCH.  81 

Friedenthal  came  back  once  more  to  pack  up  a  few  loads, 
whereby  the  number  was  brought  to  a  hundred  and  fifty-three! 
In  the  morning  we  fired  the  trial  shots  from  our  little  cannon, 
and  in  the  afternoon,  in  the  forest,  from  our  rifles  a  joyful 
and  other  guns.  It  was  the  powerful  poetry  of  the  ^^y- 
wilderness  that  was  irresistibly  borne  in  upon  us,  and  that 
still  imparts  a  hallowed  character  to  that  day  ia  the  memory 
of  us  all.  It  was  not  until  eleven  at  night  that  the  kiongosi, 
or  guide,  ordered  from  Witu,  arrived  in  camp ;  and  already, 
at  three  in  the  morning,  I  had  the  alarm  beaten  and  the 
trumpet  sounded.  I  had  been  told  that  the  distance  to  Ngao 
would  be  a  journey  of  twelve  hours. 

Accordingly,  I  was  desirous  of  starting  at  four  o'clock  in 
the  morning,  to  reach  our  destination  by  four  in  the  afternoon. 
But  the  night  was  so  dark,  that  the  porters  with  Tiedemann  did 
not  move  from  their  position  till  half-past  five  ;  and  the  camels 
and  donkeys,  with  which  I  was  to  follow,  were  not  loaded 
and  ready  until  past  seven.  So  sluggish  were  even  now  the 
movements  of  our  expedition. 

I  rode  off  with  my  camels  in  a  westerly  direction,  hoping 
that  I  should  not  meet  the  column  of  porters  till  my  arrival  at 
Ngao.  But,  to  my  disagreeable  surprise,  I  came  upon  An  ineffi- 
it  already  at  ten  o'clock.  The  guide  sent  me  by  the  "^''^s"^*®- 
Sultan  of  Witu  did  not  even  know  the  frequently  traversed 
road  to  Ngao.  Consequently,  my  column  had  gone  astray, 
and  was  now  encamped.  I  at  once  caused  them  to  make  a 
fresh  start,  while  I  myself  stayed  behind  to  wait  for  the 
camels.  But  once  more,  no  later  than  twelve  o'clock,  I  came 
again  upon  Tiedemann's  column,  encamped  beside  some  water ; 
and  its  elders,  the  Mangema  Nogola  and  the  Dar-es-Salam  man 
Musa,  begged  permission  to  rest  for  to-day.  This  I  refused, 
and  we  journeyed  onward,  further  and  further  towards  the 
west,  through  the  burning  heat  of  that  Sunday  afternoon. 

The  landscape,   in   its  flatness,   has   a   Dutch  appearance. 
The  eye  ranges  far  away  across  the  steppe,  which  is  Aspect  of 
only  here  and  there  scantily  clothed  with  bushes,  and''^^*"'"''*'^''- 
the  hot  air  lies  brooding  over  the  moorland  waste,  deceiving 


82  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

the  eye  with  atmospheric  mirages  and  fata  morgana.  ^Yater 
was  nowhere  to  be  seen ;  here  and  there  the  dry  bed  of  a  river, 
or  a  ditch.  The  affair  began  to  become  wearisome.  Towards 
three  o'clock  I  rode  forward,  past  the  caravan,  to  look  round 
in  advance  for  the  road,  always  keeping  the  imbecile  guide 
before  me.  Thirst  began  to  make  itself  felt,  and  I  lounged 
lazily  in  the  saddle,  while  my  fancies  began  to  present  to  me 
pleasant  pictures  from  home.  At  about  four  o'clock  we  came 
into  a  wooded  district,  where  the  few  people  whom  I  had  with 
me— Hamiri  was  among  them— at  last  discovered  a  swampy 
pool,  to  which  they  rushed  with  great  rejoicing.  Behind  it 
was  a  clear  space  of  three  thousand  yards  in  breadth,  beyond 
which  the  forest  began  again.  In  this  second  forest  I  dis- 
covered a  camping  place,  on  which  Wapokomo  had  probably 
rested. 

In  the  belief  that  I  was  close  to  Ngao,  I  again  declined  the 
proposal  of  Hamiri  to  stay  there  for  the  night,  cut  through  the 
wood,  and  came  anew  into  a  bushy  region,  characterised  by 
the  presence  of  great  hills  of  the  termite  ant,  which  from  a 
Seeking  for  distance  looked  almost  like  Wapokomo  houses  and 
Ngao.  villages.  As  my  horse  was  exhausted,  I  marched  on 
foot  with  Hamiri  and  my  servant  Rukua  till  towards  half-past 
five,  without  seeing  anything  of  Ngao.  Then  I  was  incautious 
enough  to  throw  myself  down  under  an  acacia  to  rest,  and  to 
remain  half  an  hour  stretched  on  the  ground,  waiting  for  my 
people.  Not  a  man  came.  Desolate,  oppressive  silence  over 
the  whole  plain  !     Where  was  my  caravan  ? 

The  sun  was  going  down.  I  went  back,  and  near  a  thicket 
I  found  nine  of  my  camels,  with  some  Somalis  ;  I  was  obliged 
to  have  a  way  cut  for  them  in  a  quarter  of  an  hour.  I  ordered 
the  Somalis  to  march  on,  and  not  to  halt  till  they  came  to  the 
Camping  in  river  ;  and  they  obeyed  my  command.  I  myself  went 
komo  ^^'''  further  back,  and  found  one  set  of  my  porters  at  the 
quarters.  Wapokomo  campiug-place  I  had  before  discovered,  and 
another  at  the  swampy  pool  we  had  found  that  afternoon  in  the 
wood.  Whether  I  liked  it  or  no,  I  had  to  make  up  my  mind 
to  set  up  the   camping-place   here  for  sixty  porters  and  five 


A   NATIONAL   PATRIOTIC  PROGBESS.  83 

camels.  Five  porters  and  one  camel  had  remained  behind  in 
the  steppe.  I  myself  encamped  in  the  Wapokomo  camp,  where 
I  had  the  tents  pitched,  with  my  private  servants  and  a  few 
porters.  Towards  nine  in  the  morning  a  heavy  thunderstorm 
came  on,  with  a  deluge  of  rain,  which  thoroughly  wetted  my 
column ;  and  in  the  night  we  had,  for  the  first  time,  the 
pleasure  of  hearing  lions  roaring  close  to  our  tents. 

On  Monday  morning  at  six  o'clock  I  first  sent  forward  all 
the  camels  that  had  remained  behind  (the  sixth  had  made  its 
appearance  at  an  early  hour),  and  then  I  despatched  Nogola,  one 
of  the  best  of  the  Mangema  men,  and  two  of  the  best  Somalis 
to  look  for  the  five  straggling  people.  At  half-past  seven 
o'clock  the  caravan  of  porters  was  in  complete  order,  „    , . 

■*■  ■*■  Marching 

and  marched  forth  with  beat  of  drum,  with  the  black,  wUhaiithe 
white,  and  red  flag  carried  in  the  front.  I  followed 
as  usual  on  horseback  ;  but  Ngao  was  still  not  to  be  descried. 
When  we  had  quitted  the  wooded  tract  we  came  once  more 
into  the  burnt-up  steppe  which  had  made  such  a  melancholy 
impression  on  us  the  evening  before.  No  water,  no  grass  ; 
only  a  darker  strip  in  the  distance.  Was  it,  perhaps,  the  course 
of  the  Tana  ? 

At  ten  o'clock  I  ordered  the  procession  to  incline  to  the 
south  ;  for  in  this  way  we  must  strike  the  river  somewhere. 
At  eleven,  there  it  lay  before  us  !  Very  invigorating  Arrival  at 
to  us  was  the  sight  of  this  water,  rolling  its  yellow  *^®  ^^"*- 
flood  towards  the  Indian  Ocean.  The  Tana  is  here  about  as 
broad  as  the  Weser  below  Miinden.  We  reached  it  about  six 
miles  above  Ngao.  I  now  rode  forward,  still  following  the 
river,  in  a  south-east  direction.  Amid  the  beating  of  drums 
and  the  joyous  shouts  of  the  porters,  who  reckoned  upon  a 
good  meal  after  the  fatiguing  march,  I  halted  at  twelve  German 
o'clock  before  the  house  of  the  German  missionaries  Son')*'^'' 
in  Ngao,  and  was  welcomed  by  Herren  Wurz,  Weber,  ^^*°- 
Heyer,  and  Booking.  At  two  o'clock  Herr  von  Tiedemann 
arrived  with  the  last  of  the  porters,  and  at  six  o'clock  Nogola 
appeared  with  two  of  the  Pagases  and  Somalis  we  had  lost 
the  day  before.     The  impression  made  by  the  steppe  between 


84  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

Witu  and  Ngao  had  been  too  much  for  the  nerves  of  the 
other  three.  They  had  let  the  Emin  Pasha  Expedition  be  the 
Emin  Pasha  Expedition,  and  shown  it  a  clean  pair  of  heels. 
Most  likely  they  had  gone  back  to  Witu. 

I  immediately  sent  off  two  men  with  a  donkey  to  bring  in 
their  loads,  and  at  the  same  time  despatched  a  letter  to  Witu, 
to  have  them  arrested  there  if  possible.  All  this  was  in  the 
highest  degree  annoying. 

But  altogether  alarming  was  the  news  I  at  once  received  at 
Ngao,  that  no  food  was  to  be  had  there  for  the  porters,  for  that 
Disagree-  the  Wapokomo  themselves  were  suffering  from  hunger, 
abietidings.  ^gj.g  gyg^  dying  of  hunger.  This  was  certainly  a  very 
agreeable  piece  of  intelligence  !  It  absolutely  seemed  as  if  our 
expedition  were  destined  to  end  in  a  truly  miserable  manner ; 
and  that,  too,  when  it  had  just  begun.  I  heard,  however,  that 
soldiers  of  the  Sultan  of  Witu  had  gone  in  boats  to  Engatana 
the  day  before,  to  carry  corn  for  me  there  from  Kau. 

Acting  on  this  intelligence,  I  at  once,  that  very  Monday 
afternoon,  sent  Hamiri  with  two  Somalis  by  boat  up  to  Enga- 
tana to  bring  down  immediately  to  Ngao  eight  loads  of  the  grain 
stored  up  there,  for  I  feared  that  otherwise  my  whole  column 
would  run  away  altogether  on  the  very  first  day.  Without 
these  eight  loads  I  could  not  even  hope  to  reach  Engatana,  as 
probably  no  food  would  be  obtainable  on  the  road  between 
Ngao  and  that  place.  At  the  same  time  I  wrote  back  to 
Witu  to  Herr  Denhardt,  commissioning  him  immediately  to 
purchase  there  ten  oxen  for  slaughtering,  and  to  send  them 
to  Engatana. 

I  hoped  by  these  measures  to  counteract  the  first  heavy 
disappointment.  I  called  my  people  together,  explained  the 
state  of  affairs  to  them,  told  them  that  there  was  corn  enough 
for  them  at  Engatana,  and  that  on  the  Upper  Tana  the  new  crop 
Ex  lana  ""'^'S  already  ripening.  But  the  negro  does  not  love  the 
tions  not    music  of  the  future  ;  he  is  a  realistic  politician  of  the 

S11CC6SSflll 

first  water.  And  the  next  morning  I  was  confronted 
by  the  very  reassuring  fact  that  seven  of  the  Dar-es-Salam  men 
had  considered  it  preferable  to  seek  their  fortune  elsewhere. 


A   NIGHT  AMONG   THE  MOSQUITOES.  85 

Perhaps  the  unpleasurable  experiences  of  the  night  had 
contributed  to  this  result.  We  had  suffered  comparatively 
little  from  mosquitoes  during  the  expedition;  but  Ants  and 
on  no  night  were  we  molested  by  such  swarms  of  °"'^*"'*''*=- 
these  little  pests  as  attacked  us  at  Ngao.  The  mission  had 
built  its  house  close  by  the  Tana,  amid  a  wild,  luxuriant 
grass  steppe.  Here  milliards  of  mosquitoes  swarmed;  and 
so  soon  as  the  sun  went  down  they  threw  themselves  raven- 
ously upon  the  welcome  guests,  who  seemed  to  offer  them 
a  fresher  nourishment  than  they  were  accustomed  to.  It  was 
of  no  use  that  we  surrounded  our  tents  and  ourselves  with 
a  smoke  that  brought  tears  into  our  eyes ;  it  was  of  no  use 
that  we  put  on  drawers  and  wrapped  up  our  hands  in  cloths. 
The  sharp  sting  of  the  mosquitoes,  who  threw  themselves 
upon  us  in  black  serried  ranks,  pierced  through  trousers  and 
drawers ;  nor  was  the  mosquito-net  any  protection  against  our 
unwelcome  visitors.  Thus  the  nights  passed  away,  bringing 
us  disturbed  sleep,  and,  unrefreshed,  we  rose  to  encounter 
the  labours  of  the  day  that  brought  one  disappointment  after 
another. 

I  endeavoured  at  Ngao  to  procure  at  any  rate  fish  for  my 
people,  but  was  told  that  no  fish  could  be  got  from  the  Tana 
at  this  season  of  the  year.     There  was  only  the  mambo  to  be 
had — a   kind    of  eel — and   these,  unfortunately,  but   in  very 
sparing  quantity.     I  immediately  sent  soldiers  in  pursuit  of  my 
runaway  porters,  and  especially  hunted  for  them  among  ,^^  g^ug^g 
a  tribe  of  Gallas  who  had  established  themselves  in  *=  p°1"«- 
the   neighbourhood,  whose  chief  came  to  bring  me  a  tribute 
of  five  sheep,  three  of  which  I  handed  over  at  once  to  my 
porters.     I  held  a  council  with  these  Gallas  in  the  midst  of  the 
whole  congregation  of  my  men.     In  order  to  terrify  these  from 
further  desertion,  I  charged  the  Gallas,  in  the  event  of  my 
runaway  porters  refusing  to  return,  simply  to  cut  them  down. 
I  also  held  a  shauri  (conference)  with  my  porters,  in  ugijauri" 
which  I  explained  to  them  that  I  would  not  have  people  with  the 

1  1  -IT  -IT  porters. 

m  the  column  who  were  not  willmg  to  go  with  me,  and 

called  upon  them  to  give  me  notice  at  once    if  they  wanted 


86  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRTCA. 

permission  to  go  home.  No  one  presented  himself;  but  as  I 
verj'  well  discerned,  the  temper  of  the  men  was  very  unsatis- 
factory and  doubtful.  If  a  leader  cannot  feed  his  men  well, 
especially  at  the  beginning  of  an  expedition,  they  go  away  ;  and 
for  this  they  can  hardly  be  blamed. 

Thus  Monday  went  by,  and  no  news  from  Engatana,  towards 
which  place  I  was  looking  hopefully  for  corn.  My  soldiers 
came  back  ;  not  a  trace  of  the  fugitives  had  they  discovered. 
I  was  obliged  to  confine  myself  to  sending  the  names  of  the 
Further  ruuaways  also  to  Lieutenant-Captain  Rust  at  Witu,  in 
of  the"'''  the  hope  he  would  succeed  in  bringing  at  least  one  or 
Witu  men,  two  to  puuishmeut  there.  The  men  engaged  at  Witu 
left  me  in  pairs  ;  during  these  days,  among  others  the  private 
servant  of  Herr  von  Tiedemann,  whom  we  used  to  call  Fremantle, 
betook  himself  home  to  his  Penates.  But  this  worthy  could  not 
make  up  his  mind  to  depart  without  a  remembrance  of  his 
master,  and  accordingly  took  with  him  some  good  shirts  and 
coats,  and,  unfortunately,  also  a  money  pouch  containing 
700  marks  (£35).  The  affair  was  the  more  deplorable  as 
there  was  nowhere  a  gleam  of  hope  of  better  things.  How 
could  I  expect  it  would  be  better  at  other  points  of  the  Tana 
than  in  Ngao,  which  was  comparatively  nearer  to  civilisation  ? 
Or  how  could  I  assume  that  the  main  body  of  my  porters  would 
be  intrinsically  more  faithful  than  those  who  had  already  de- 
serted me  ?  But  if  my  porters  went  off,  the  whole 
anceofthe  undertaking  would  prove  a  fiasco  of  the  most  ridiculous 
por  ers.  Yvix([  ;  and  the  landing  and  the  difficulties  we  had  already 
overcome  would  assume  an  altogether  comic  character.  To 
make  things  worse,  Herr  von  Tiedemann,  who  had  gone  across 
the  river  on  Monday,  in  the  heat  of  the  sun,  to. the  English 
mission,  to  see  after  our  runaway  porters,  had  got  an  affection 
of  the  head  from  the  sun,  and  was  suffering  from  the  most 
violent  cerebral  pains. 

During  those  days  I  had  much  intercourse  with  the  missionary 
Missionary  Wllrz  ;  but  our  Conversation  on  the  Gospel  according 
^"'■'^  to  St.  John  and  the  Lutheran  dogma  hardly  sufficed 
to  free   my  mind  from  the   gloomy  cares  that  oppressed  it, 


DIFFICULTIES   OF  THE  TANA   ROUTE.  87 

and  made   our  thoughts  revert   continually  to  the   miserable 
circumstances  of  the  moment. 

On  July  30th,  towards  evening,  the  eight  loads  ordered 
arrived  at  last  from  Engatana.  It  was  a  positive  heartfelt 
comfort  to  me  to  be  able  to  serve  out  rice  and  maize  in  abund- 
ance to  my  people.  This  was  certainly  more  calculated  than 
my  address  to  raise  the  sinking  courage  of  the  men.  On 
August  1st  I  marched  away  from  Ngao,  still  in  a  very  March 
depressed  frame  of  mind,  to  betake  myself  at  least  as^'*""^^*"' 
far  as  Engatana,  where  I  hoped  to  find  waiting  for  me  some 
ninety  loads  of  grain,  and  the  necessary  boats  for  transporting  it 
onward.  We  wanted  to  sleep  this  night  at  Marfano  ;  and  I  was 
accompanied  by  Herr  Weber,  from  the  mission  at  Ngao,  who 
wished  to  look  at  Engatana,  with  a  view  to  a  possible  missionary 
settlement  there. 

This  marching  day  very  considerably  strengthened  the  im- 
pressions of  discouragement  which  the  Tana  route  had  awakened 
in  me  when  I  first  entered  upon  it.    There  was  no  real  road,  for 
the  Wapokomo  carry  on  their  trade  by  boats.     So  we  had  to 
march  continually  through  bush  and  steppe,  always  in  danger 
of  losing  our  way,  which  indeed  happened  to  us  several  times. 
Then  at  last  we  got  into  a  broad  and  deep  morass,  in  which  the 
porters  disappeared  to  their  hips,  and  the  camels  got  embedded 
in  such  a  way  that  they  had  to  be  unloaded  and  hoisted  ^^^  ^^.^ 
up  with  levers,  a  work  in  which  the  whole  force  of  ma 
porters,  already  sufficiently  wearied  by  a  ten  or  twelve 
hours'  march,  were  obliged  to  help.    Moreover,  at  Marfano  there 
was  nothing  to  eat ;  and  in  the  night  another  porter  ran  away, 
and  I  could  never  learn  what  became  of  him.     That  was  the 
Tana  route,  to  which  we  now  stood  committed. 

On  this  day  I  determined  at  any  rate  to  make  use  of  the 
advantages   of  this   route,    by  partly    unloading    my   heavily 
burdened  column,  and  having  a  portion  of  the  things  trans- 
ported up  the  river  in  boats.    Already  at  the  beginning  j^i^j^^i 
of  July  seventy  or  eighty  Arabs  had  gone  up  the  river,  ^^^'^^^ 
whether  on  English  instigation  I  do  not  know,  but  at  all 
events  to  English  satisfaction,  to  stir  up  the  inhabitants  of  the 


88  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

Tana  banks  against  my  expedition,  and  especially  to  stop  its 

progress,  and  neither  to  sell  me  provisions  nor  give  me  the  use 

of  boats.     But  the  gentlemen  who  proceeded  in  this  manner 

against  me  had  not  reckoned  upon   one  thing,  namely,   that 

these  continual  hindrances  and  oppressions  would  necessarily 

compel  me,  on  my  side,  to  meet  extremities  with  extremities, 

and  where  I  found  people  refusing  to  let  me  purchase  what  they 

Necessity  of  possessed,  to  fall  back  upon  the  right  of  self-preser- 

seif-heip.     vation   and  the  right  of  arms,  which  is  everywhere 

acknowledged  in  Africa,  and  simply  to  take  what  I  required.     I 

had  a  formal  right  to  do  this,  inasmuch  as  I  appeared  here,  to  a 

certain  extent,  as  an  authorised  agent  of  the  Sultan  of  Witu, 

whose  flag  I  carried,  and  whose  influence  I  had  undertaken  to 

spread  towards  the  west.     The  Sultan's  Walls  have  everywhere 

the  right  to  requisition  boats  and  men  for  the  objects  of  their 

lord ;  and  I  appeared  in  these  lands,  in  some  measure,  invested 

with  this  power  by  a  document  from  Fumo  Bukari.     Therefore 

I  took  possession  of  two  boats  at  Marfano,  and  requested  the 

proprietors  to  forward  a  part  of  my  loads  to  Engatana  under 

The  boats     the  guard  of  some  Somalis ;  and  the  goods  arrived 

at  Marfano.  ^]^gj.g  g^^  ^^q  Specified  time.     Thus  relieved  to  some 

extent,  I  set  forth  from  Marfano  on  the  morning  of  August 

2nd,  and  arrived  at  about  eleven  in  the  morning  with  my  whole 

column  safe  and  sound  at  Engatana. 

Here  I  encountered  the  great  disappointment  with  regard  to 
my  measures  from  Witu,  and  this  disappointment  was  nearly 
overturning  everything.  At  Witu  I  had  made  a  contract  with 
the  Banyans  of  Kau  for  the  delivery  of  six  miaus  or  Tana 
canoes,  with  one  hundred  loads  of  grain,  at  Engatana ;  the  six 
miaus  were  to  be  at  my  disposal  for  use  up  the  river.  As  in 
the  meanwhile  Herr  Clemens  Denhardt  had  undertaken  to 
Failure  of  represent  me  at  Witu,  I  made  him  acquainted  with  this 
Indmfau  arrangement.  Herr  Denhardt  offered  to  manage  the 
contract,  affair  in  a  safer  way  for  me,  through  the  Wali  of  the 
Tanga  territory,  Buana  Shaibo  in  Kau.  Two  days  before  my 
departure  from  Witu,  I  sent  Tiedemann  to  Denhardt  with  the 
inquiry  whether  I  might  depend  upon  finding  the  grain  and  the 


WAITING  FOR   THE  JIEANS   OF  ADVAXCE.  89 

miaus  at  Eugatana.  "When  Herr  von  Tiedemann  brought  me 
an  answer  in  the  affirmative,  I  broke  off  my  own  negotiations 
with  the  Banyan,  and  marched  to  Engatana.  But  on  August  2nd 
I  found  at  Engatana,  instead  of  the  expected  hundred  loads,  only 
fifty -four,  and  not  a  single  miau.  Buana  Shaibu  had  believed 
he  had  herewith  sufficiently  fulfilled  his  engagement ! 

For  the  time,  this  decided  the  fate  of  my  column.  Without 
miaus  I  had  no  means  of  shipping  the  grain  up  the  stream,  and 
had  consequently  to  remain  in  Engatana.  Herewith  began  the 
darkest  weeks  of  the  German  Emin  Pasha  Expedition,  serious 
Our  position  appeared  to  me  almost  hopeless.  In  discourage- 
spite  of  the  greatest  economy,  I  was  obliged  to  expend  °'®'^*- 
from  two  to  three  loads  of  grain  each  day  to  satisfy  the  hunger 
of  my  people.  The  grain  decreased  more  and  more  from  day 
to  day,  and  the  time  could  be  accurately  calculated  when  it 
would  come  to  an  end.  Whatever  was  to  be  got  at  Engatana, 
in  the  way  of  unripe  bananas  and  other  articles  of  food,  was 
soon  completely  consumed. 

It  happened,  in  addition,  that  the  rainy  season  this  }'ear  was 
unusually  prolonged.  Night  after  night  cataracts  poured  down 
from  the  skies,  and  soon  sickness  began  to  rage  among  my 
camels,  which  in  a  short  time  were  reduced  to  the  number  often. 
My  people  also  fell  ill,  and  the  desertion  of  men,  one  by  ^ 
one,  continued,  until  I  made  up  my  mind,  once  for  all,  season  and 
to  chain  up  every  doubtful  character  among  them, 
under  the  guard  of  a  Somali,  day  and  night.  But  worse  than 
all  this  was  the  circumstance  that  I  myself  began  to  lose  my 
elasticity  of  mind. 

Opposite  Engatana  is  situated  a  wide  region  of  swamp,  the 
so-called  Shechababu  lake.  This  lake  afforded  for  our  support 
an  inexhaustible  shooting-ground  for  ducks,  fowl,  and  geese. 
At  this  time  we  lived  almost  entirely  on  birds. 

But  the  south-west  monsoon,  which  continually  blew  with 
unusual  violence  across  our  camping-ground,  incessantly  The  mon- 
drove  the  marsh  vapour  over  upon  us ;  and  as  we  were  ^"53  'Jj)l_ 
in  the  habit  of  carelessly  sitting,  often  for  hours,  after  ^^t^^s- 
supper,  in  the  open  air  in  the  front  of  my  tent,  I  was  seized  in 


90  XEW  LIGHT  OX  DARK  AFRICA. 

the  course  of  this  detention  at  Engatana  with  a  rheumatic  fever, 
which  shook  me  violently  for  two  days,  and  then  left  behind  it 
a  painful  lameness  in  my  left  knee,  and  also  in  my  right  arm. 
Against  this  rheumatic  suffering  I  used  strong  doses  of  Salicin, 
but  I  did  not  succeed  in  completely  overcoming  it ;  and,  on 
the  other  hand,  the  use  of  quinine  and  salicyl  had  the  disagree- 
able effect  of  greatly  depressing  my  spirits,  and  especially  my 
power  of  will.  How  could  I  thus  hope  to  command  an  Emin 
Pasha  Expedition  under  ordinary  conditions  ?  how  much  less 
to  face  the  quite  unusual  difficulties  of  my  exceptional  position  ? 
But  how  could  I  have  reconciled  myself  even  to  continue  to 
live,  if  the  Emin    Pasha  Expedition   broke   down  in 

WG6i£S  01  ,  _^ 

dreary  this  manner  P  Thus  I  sat  for  weeks  m  Engatana, 
wai  ing.  |3j.QQ(j^,^g  Qygj.  jj^y  fj^^g  g^jj(j  ^jjg  future,  while  the  south- 
west wind  whistled  round  my  tent,  and  the  sky,  from  its 
murky  clouds,  poured  down  torrents  of  rain  on  our  expedition.* 

*  I  cannot  more  forcibly  express  the  feelings  that  pervaded  me  at  the 
beginning  of  our  detention  at  Engatana,  than  by  reproducing  a  letter  which 
I  addressed  on  August  8rd  to  Government  Architect  Hofmann.  This  letter 
is  not  without  interest  for  me,  because  it  especially  indicates  the  hopes  to 
which  I  still  clung  at  that  time.     The  literal  text  is  as  follows : — 

"  I  must  confess  that  this  Emin  Pasha  Expedition  makes  unusual  demands 
upon  my  patience  and  strength  of  purpose.  The  famous  Tana  route  is,  just 
as  I  said  in  the  autumn,  in  reality  quite  unavailable  for  expeditions.  At 
that  time  the  whole  river  plain  is  in  a  state  of  famine.  This  it  was  that 
ultimately  caused  the  failure  of  the  English  (Pigott's)  expedition,  and  I  must 
exert  all  my  powers  to  escape  such  a  fate.  I  have  my  provisions  carried  with 
me  in  boats,  which  naturally  gives  occasion  for  delays.  So  I  only  get  forward 
slowly.  In  three  or  four  weeks  the  crops  will  be  ripe,  and  the  misery  past. 
We  are  looking  forward  to  an  abundant  harvest.  Now,  the  people  here  are 
living  literally  on  grass  and  the  bark  of  trees.  There  is  nothing  at  all  to  he 
had  except  water,  of  which  there  is  enough  in  the  river.  You  would  not 
believe  the  difficulties  that  arise  in  provisioning,  especially  in  furnishing 
supplies  for  my  camels,  donkeys,  and  my  riding  horse.  To  this  must  be  added 
the  quite  unusual  days'  marches  we  have  to  make.  Repeatedly  we  have  had 
to  march  from  quite  early  in  the  morning  until  from  four  to  six  in  the  after- 
noon, before  we  get  to  a  halting-place.  The  Tana  valley,  in  its  formation,  is 
quite  like  that  of  the  Nile  on  a  small  scale.  The  river  has  carried  a  fertile 
but  narrow  alluvial  surface  into  a  quite  desolate  steppe.  Along  this  region  I 
journey ;  that  is  to  say,  I  encamp  in  it.  I  do  not  follow  the  windings  of  the 
river,  but  travel  diagonally  across  the  steppe  towards  my  camping-ground. 


PBOSPECIV   AND  LABOURS.  91 

On  the  24th,  my  condition  of  mind  had  become  considerably 
more  passionate,  by  the  state  of  tension  throughout  these  weeks. 
On  that  day  I  wrote  a  letter  to  Dr.  Denicke,  from  which  I 
extract  a  few  passages : — 

"  Meanwhile,  every  attempt  to  cause  me  to  waver  in  my 
fixed  determination  to  carry  out  my  task,  whether  through 
hunger,  negro  mobs,  rain,  wind,  or  sickness,  appears  to  me 
downright  ridiculous.  I  do  not  for  a  moment  think  of  retreat- 
ing. .  .  .  I  am  cut  off  from  my  rear.  Germany  will,  as  usual, 
since  I  have  the  distinction  to  work  for  German  interests,  be 
'  indignant '   at   me.      I   have    '  contrived '    to    make   myself 

Here  I  must  again  wait  for  a  few  days]"  (such  was  my  expectation  even  on 
August  3rd)  "  for  grain  from  Kipiri  and  Kau,  and  for  my  boats. 

"  So  soon  as  I  am  at  Korkoro,  whicli  will  be  God  knows  when,  but  with- 
out question  will  be  effected,  I  shall  profit  by  the  immediate  neighbourhood  of 
the  Kawallalah  Somalis  "  (which  was  also  destined  to  be  a  sweet  delusion), 
"  and  shall  also  immediately  put  myself  in  communication  with  the  Massais. 
The  former  made  a  compact  with  me  the  last  day  I  was  in  Witu ;  they  came 
after  me.  I  was  to  remain  neutral  in  case  the  Wagalla  "  (and  Englishmen 
with  them)  "  attacked  them ;  in  return  they  will  bring  cattle  and  camels  to 
me  to  Korkoro,  and  also  to  Oda-Boru-Ruva  "  (which  they  never  thought  of 
doing) ;  "  and  I  am  always  to  be  their  Sultan  so  long  as  I  remain  in  Africa. 
So  runs  the  concluding  part  of  the  treaty  set  up  by  Sheriff  Hussein.  The 
Massais  must  furnish  me  with  donkeys.  Then  I  think  I  shall  be  able  to  get 
easily  to  the  great  caravan  road  of  Baringo,  where  further  means  of  help  are 
to  be  found.  I  must  operate  in  this  way  because  I  am  cut  off  from  Zanzibar, 
and  from  the  rear. 

"  I  have  already  several  times  experienced  in  my  life  how  apparently 
invincible  obstacles  yield  to  a  persistent  will ;  and  I  also  believe  that  Provi- 
dence actually  wills  this  undertaking,  however  all  appearances  seem  to  declare 
against  it.  For  it  is  only  now  that  I  see,  with  complete  clearness,  what  this 
undertaking  is  capable  of  becoming  for  this  part  of  Africa.  Steamers  must 
run  up  the  Tana ;  then  the  Baringo  trade  will  certainly  be  drawn  this  way  " 
(which  was  an  error).  "  The  Wapokomo  must  be  protected  against  the 
Somalis  and  Massais,  so  that  they  gain  courage  to  follow  cattle-breeding  and 
agriculture  on  a  large  scale.  Stations  must  make  the  north-west  trade  route 
safe,  far  into  the  south.  Perhaps  the  task  of  breaking  the  ground  here  is 
reserved  for  me.  In  that  case  I  should  understand  the  contrarieties  that 
beset  me,  and  that  have  compelled  me  to  have  recourse  again  to  camels,  and 
always  force  me  back  upon  the  river.  I  have  been  obliged  to  emancipate 
myself  from  all  the  received  traditions  of  Central  African  expeditions.  But 
thus  this  undertaking  may  in  reality  form  an  epoch  in  the  history  of  Central 


92  XEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

•  unpopular '  in  wide  circles  there.  It  is  a  worse  thing  that 
Zanzibar  and  the  coast  are  cut  oif  from  me,  with  regard  to 
porters  and  provisions.  This  certainly,  throws  me  back  on  my 
own  resources.  .  .  .  Once  more.  The  billows  that  roar  against 
me  may  perhaps  bewilder  my  temper  here  and  there,  but  never 
my  resolves.  Whatever  my  feelings  may  be,  facts  will  always 
find  me  meet  them  like  a  man.  ...  My  dear  Denicke,  I  hope 
— and  God  will  not  be  so  cruel  as  to  will  it  otherwise— that  I 
shall  do  you  no  dishonour  ;  and  if,  to  avoid  this,  I  should  perish 
here  with  all  I  am  and  possess,  it  will  be  in  the  strife,  and 
whatever  may  happen,  I  shall  fall  as  a  man  !  .  .  .  People  like 
myself  will,  probably,  not  usually  get  beyond  a  certain  limit, 

Africa.  Firm  as  a  rock  in  tliis  conviction,  I  work  from  morning  till  evening, 
and  in  this  confidence  I  am  determined  to  oppose  my  whole  being  to  all 
difficulties  and  troubles,  in  full  trust  that  if  I  aid  myself,  God  will  also  aid 
me  in  the  end. 

"  From  Ngao  I  have  taken  with  me  Herr  Weber,  one  of  the  Neukirchen 
missionaries,  that  he  may  take  a  survey  of  this  land  in  connection  with  his 
duties.  He  will  probably  go  a  few  days'  journey  further  up  with  me."  (This 
was  not  done,  in  consequence  of  our  lengthened  detention.) 

"  You  and  all  friends  in  Germany  only  require  to  have  patience  with  us. 
Though  we  drag  ourselves  forward  but  slowly,  you  may  be  sure  that  we  stiU 
get  on  as  quickly  as  ever  it  can  be  done ;  our  base  as  far  as  Witu  remains 
permanently  secured,  and  at  all  events  I  shall  avoid  a  catastrophe.  This  is 
my  first  duty.  The  German  Emin  Pasha  undertaking  must  in  every  case  be 
carried  out,  and  have  a  practical  result.  By  this  undeviating  resolve  I  will 
stand  or  fall,  if  my  force  of  will  be  not  broken  by  sickness.  But  this  I  do  not 
apprehend. 

"  I  have  especial  pleasure  in  putting  myself  in  communication  with  you 
to-day.  Close  in  front  of  my  tent  flows  the  Tana,  very  like  the  Weser  at 
Hameln.  The  opposite  shore  is  luxuriantly  covered  with  bananas  and  maize. 
Weber  and  Tiedemann  have  gone  out  hunting,  and  it  is  a  calm,  fine  morning, 
one  in  which  the  soul  can  thoroughly  go  into  and  strengthen  itself.  Behind 
me  lies  all  the  jarring  of  Europe,  like  the  blustering  sea,  of  which  not  a 
whisper,  much  less  an  angry  sound,  penetrates  to  us  here.  Let  wind  and 
waves  rage  behind  us ;  before  me  lies  the  future,  and  '  Forward ! '  is  my 
watchword. 

"  When  I  look  up  from  this  letter  my  glance  always  falls  upon  the  mirror 
of  the  Tana,  whose  waters  glide  by  me,  dumb  and  mysterious.  ,  Whence  does 
it  come  ?  Perhaps  it  may  be  vouchsafed  to  me  to  behold  its  source.  That  is 
in  the  hands  of  the  Eternal  Powers,  that  regulate  the  fate  of  individuals  and 
of  the  whole.     Farewell." 


DAYS  BY  THE  TANA.  93 

even  of  life.  And  th'ey  fail,  indeed,  in  this  manner :  on  the 
one  hand,  they  want  to  display  qualities  which,  in  fact,  must 
go  beyond  the  rule  and  measure  of  prescribed  bounds  if  they 
are  to  fulfil  their  task ;  on  the  other  hand,  their  qualities  are 
to  remain  within  the  limits  of  private  action.  The  reconcilia- 
tion of  a  contrast  and  contradiction  is  here  demanded." 

The  Tana  here  rolls  through  a  pleasant  scene,  onward 
towards  its  mouth.  Close  by  the  margin  of  the  shore  was  a 
Wapokomo  hut,  with  a  barasa  or  verandah.  Here  Herr  von 
Tiedemann  and  I  were  accustomed  to  take  our  early  breakfast, 
and  I  used  then  for  hours  to  gaze  down  the  river,  hoping  that 
round  one  of  its  windings  help  might  appear  from  the  coast. 
In  the  evenings  we  would  again  sit  before  our  tent,  „    , 

r.  On  the 

having  left  the  cares  of  the  day  behind  us.  Opposite  banks  of 
us,  on  the  further  shore,  stood  a  knotted  tree,  which 
from  the  varied  effects  of  light  assumed  fantastic  forms  and 
outlines.  Sometimes  it  looted  like  an  old  man  with  a  ragged 
beard,  stretching  out  his  hands  threateningly  towards  us ; 
sometimes  it  appeared  in  the  mist  like  the  Erl-king,  with  hand 
thrust  forth,  pointing  to  the  west.  To  my  somewhat  melan- 
choly fancy  it  always  had  a  threatening  appearance.  But  it 
was  not  on  ghosts  and  apparitions  that  my  fate  depended.  If 
there  was  any  help  for  us,  it  must  after  all  be  in  ourselves. 

I  shall  pass  briefly  over  the  many  efforts  I  made  in  this 
direction.     I  at  once  sent  Hamiri  down  river  to  Ngao  to  bring 
up  fresh  supplies  of  grain.     He  actually  succeeded  in  procuring 
thirty -four  loads,  and  getting  them  to  Engatana.    From  g^ppugg 
Witu,  through  the  exertions  of  Herr  Denhardt,  I  re-  fi'of 

>  o  Witu. 

ceived  nine  oxen,  and  if  anythmg  could  keep  my 
people  in  good  heart  it  was  the  appearance  of  the  nine  oxen  in 
question.  I  used  to  tell  Herr  von  Tiedemann  that  so  long  as 
a  single  one  of  these  oxen  walked  in  front  of  the  expedition 
the  people  would  follow  him,  as  iron  is  drawn  by  the  magnet. 
What  modest  views  we  still  had  at  that  time  with  regard  to 
cattle — and  how  entirely  different  had  our  ideas  become,  a  few 
months  later,  when  we  marched  along,  with  herds  of  hundreds 
and  even  thousands  of  oxen,  the  prize  of  war !— Our  expedi- 


94  XEW  LIGHT   0\  DARK  AFRICA. 

tion,  still  so  hungry  at  that  time,  was  destined  to  become  one 
of  the  best  fed  that  ever  marched  onward  in  Africa.  I  further 
succeeded  in  procuring  two  large  miaus  from  the  Arabs. 

On  August  8th  I  sent  a  few  people  up  the  river  to  look 
about,  as  far  as  Kosi  Nderani,  for  miaus,  and  to  bring  down 
any  they  could  get.  However,  as  it  usually  happens,  the 
Somalis  came  back  without  fulfilling  their  commission ;  they 
declared  there  were  no  miaus ;  they  had  not  been  able  to  get 
untrust-  any.  Thereupon  I  sent  Herr  von  Tiedemann  up  the 
Toml^f  river  ;  and  next  morning  already  he  sent  me  down  a 
messengers.iniau,  and  after  several  days,  to  my  great  satisfaction, 
came  back  himself  with  a  second  one.  This  last  miau  had 
certainly  cost  a  few  lives,  as  the  Wapokomo  of  Nderani,  who 
were  being  goaded  on  by  the  Arabs,  had  refused  to  let  us  have 
The  cap-  oue.  Not  Only  had  they  insulted  Herr  von  Tiedemann 
tured  miau.  g^^  a  couucil,  but,  when  he,  notwithstanding,  went  away 
with  the  miau,  they  had  even  shot  at  him,  so  that  he  was 
obliged  to  return  their  fire  in  self-defence,  on  which  occasion 
four  of  the  Wapokomo  fell. 

So,  after  all,  I  had  for  the  present  a  little  flotilla  of  four 
miaus  lying  at  Engatana,  guarded  day  and  night  by  Somali 
sentries.  On  account  of  the  total  want  of  provisions  with 
which  we  were  threatened,  I  reduced  the  posho  or  allowance  for 
the  porters  to  a  load  and  a  half  per  day.  The  people  resisted 
Short  this  in  their  peculiar  manner,  by  declaring  they  would 
allowance.  ^^^  accept  a  ioad  and  a  half.  But  when  I  told  them, 
in  reply,  that  this  would  suit  me  all  the  better,  for  that  then  I 
should  save  all  my  grain,  they  came  to  me  in  the  evening,  and 
begged  me  to  give  them  the  load  and  a  half,  and  they  would  be 
content ;  which  I,  on  my  part,  did  not  do,  for  I  put  them  off 
to  the  following  day.  Hereby  I  put  an  end,  once  and  for  all, 
to  this  kind  of  resistance,  in  my  own  column,  for  the  whole 
remaining  period  of  the  expedition.  Th'e  people  got  more 
strict  and  more  accustomed  to  leave  it  to  me  to  decide  for 
discipline,  ^j^g^  ^^j^g^^  ^gj,  ^Q  ^g  ^Q^g  lj^  ^j^g  expedition.     Such 

"  shauris  "  as,  according  to   the  books  of  travel,   were  usual 
in  other  expeditions,  especially  in  those  of  Stanley,  I  never 


AN  ENGLISH  EXPEDITION  REPORTED.  95 

tolerated  in  the  German  Emin  Pasha  Expedition.  Nevertheless, 
as  a  precaution,  when  I  adopted  the  before -mentioned  measure 
on  August  6th,  I  had  all  the  people  put  in  chains  who  had  been 
engaged  at  Lamu  and  Witu. 

The  longer  I  remained  at  Engatana  the  more  did  suspicious 
Arab  characters  show  themselves,  day  by  day,  around  my  camp. 
Already  at  the  beginning  of  August  reports  came  daily  of  the 
approach  of  an  English  expedition  to  Engatana.  Naturally  I 
listened  to  all  these  communications  with  the  greatest  interest. 
The  English  expedition  was  said  to  be  commandqd  by  Mr. 
Smith,  as  proved  to  be  the  case,  and  had  specially  put  Eumours 
itself  in  communication  with  the  Kau  Arabs.  As  it  English 
was  now  reported  to  me  that  the  Arabs  from  Kau  were  expedition- 
trying  to  stir  up  my  people  to  desert,  and  as  men  belonging  to 
the  approaching  English  expedition  had  already  been  seen  in 
my  quarters,  I  determined  to  put  a  stop  to  this,  by  one  day 
chaining  up  some  yellow  gentlemen  from  Kau,  and  keeping 
them  with  me,  to  a  certain  extent,  as  hostages.  The  envoys 
from  the  English  expedition,  who  had  manifestly  endeavoured 
to  persuade  my  people  to  desert,  I  caused  to  be  flogged,  and 
sent  them  back. 

By  this  means  I  established  something  like  peace  towards 
the  end  of  my  stay  ;  but  the  general  condition  of  the  expedition 
was  only  negatively  improved  thereby,  inasmuch  as  a  time  of 
there  was  one  danger  less,  to  threaten  us.  From  Witu,  ^^^p*''^®- 
to  which  place  I  continually  looked  for  help,  none  appeared;  on 
the  contrary,  the  expedition  was  looked  upon  there  as  having 
already  failed;  and  an  endeavour  was  made  to  persuade  me 
that  this  could  not  have, been  otherwise,  that  it  had  been  pre- 
dicted. Among  the  peculiar  plans  that  were  discussed  among 
us  day  by  day,  to  help  us  out  of  the  blind  alley  in  which  we 
were,  I  cannot  forbear  giving  an  account  of  a  proposition  made 
to  me,  in  all  seriousness,  one  morning  by  Hussein  Fara. 

I  was  accustomed  at  that  time  to  get  some  hours'  instruction 
every  morning  from  Hussein  in  the  language  of  his  people,  that 
I  might  give  my  commands  to  the  Somalis,  who  did  not  un- 
derstand the  Kiswahili  tongue.     Then  Hussein  one  morning 


96  XEW  LIGHT  Oy  DARK  AFRICA. 

came  out  deliberately  with  the  observation  that  my  porters  were 
very  powerful  and  well-built  people.     When  I  assented  to  this 

proposition,  he  went  on  to  remark  that  Sheriff  Hussein 
cai^  °  °^^'  in  Witu  had  already  said  the  same  thing.  I  observed 
studies.  ^^  Hussein  that  every  one  could  see  this  for  himself, 
and  that  I  did  not  wonder  at  it.  Yes,  he  said,  Sheriff  Hussein 
was  desirous  to  buy  himself  a  lot  of  slaves.  Now,  our  porters 
were  in  the  habit  of  running  away,  and  so  he  had  agreed  with 
Sheriff  Hussein,  that  when  we  came  into  the  district  where  the 
latter  was  with  his  herds,  I  should  give  over  my  porters  as 
slaves  to  him,  and  he  would  give  me  five  camels  in  exchange 
for  every  porter.  He  advised  me  to  conclude  this  business. 
In  the  first  place,  a  camel  carried  much  more  than  a  porter,  and 

then  I  could  afterwards  sell  the  camels  on  the  coast 
diplomatic  when  the  expedition  was  over,  and  I  should  make  a 
proposal.  gQQ(j  profit  by  the  transaction.  Husseiii  made  me  this 
proposition  on  August  22nd,  and  frequently  reverted  to  it  later 
on  in  the  expedition.  He  could  not  understand  why  I  should 
not  make  up  my  mind  to  so  manifestly  profitable  a  transaction, 
and  he  had  noticed  with  astonishment  that  the  whites  did  not 
enter  into  such  little  undertakings  on  the  coast.  During  the 
course  of  this  conversation  Hussein  also  expressed  his  opinion, 
that  when  I  had  once  seen  how  lucrative  such  an  affair  could 
become,  I  should  perhaps  make  up  my  mind  to  do  business 
more  frequently  in  this  manner  in  Africa,  But,  tempting  as 
the  matter  appeared  in  his  eyes,  I  could  not  bring  myself  to 
close  with  his  proposal. 

Meanwhile  the  English  expedition,  under  Mr.  Smith,  act- 
ually marched  past  Engatana,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Tana 
river.  But  if  Mr.  Smith  had  been  commissioned  to  close  the 
Smith's  P^*^  against  me  there,  I  must  confess  that,  from  his 
English  first  appearance  on  the  scene,  he  did  not  follow  his 
■  instructions  very  conscientiously.  For,  instead  of  keep- 
ing close  to  my  camp,  and  if  possible  drawing  over  my  porters 
to  his  side,  he  seemed  to  find  it  more  convenient  to  march 
round  it  in  a  wide  circuit,  so  that  altogether  I  did  not  get 
sight  of  him  and  his  column.     This  relation  between  us  was 


ENCAMPED  AT  EN  GAT  AN  A.  97 

practically  maintained  during  the  whole  time  we  were  both 
marching  along  the  Tana.  When,  later  on,  I  followed  his 
traces,  Mr.  Smith,  whom  I  repeatedly  expected  to  meet, 
had  always  started  again  a  few  days  earlier  ;  so  that  of  him 
personally  I  saw  nothing  at  all,  and  of  his  people  only  so  many 
as  fled  to  me  after  the  Smith  expedition,  one  hundred  and  sixty 
strong,  had  been  scattered  by  the  Somalis.  One  day,  moreover, 
two  boats  passed  our  camp,  carrying  grain  up  the  Tana  for  the 
Englishmen. 

During  the  whole  time  I  had  the  camp  closely  guarded  by 
day  and  night,  because  reports  were  continually  reaching  our 
ears  of  Arab  machinations  to  attack  and  plunder  us ;  and  it  was 
necessary  for  me,  at  all  hazards,  to  resist  any  raids  that  might 
be  attempted  on  my  cattle  or  my  boats.    I  need  hardly  Danger  of 
say  that  I  was  not  much  afraid  of  this  Arab  coast  ^"^^^ '^*^*^- 
rabble.     I  had  too  much  confidence  in  the  discipline  we  had 
introduced  in  my  troop  for  that,  and  in  my  artillery  and  our 
repeating  rifles.     Seen  from  the  river,  our  camp  at  Engatana 
had  a  sufficiently  picturesque  look.    In  the  foreground  ^^^^^^^ 
was  my  fine  large  tent,  with  the  German  and  the  Witu  atEnga- 
flags.     In  front  the  artillery  was  placed.     On  the  right 
was  the  smaller  tent,  of  Herr  Tiedemann,  and  behind  my  tent, 
and  to  the  left  of  it,  the  Somalis,  and  further  off  the  porters. 
The  whole  presented  a  handsome  and  warlike  appearance. 

On  August  23rd  I  had  ordered  Hamiri  to  a  rich  Suaheli  in 
the  sultanate  of  Witu,  to  try  and  procure  me  grain  from  that 
place.  I  had  given  him  eight  camels,  to  bring  home  the  grain 
into  camp.  But  already  on  the  morning  of  the  24th  Hamiri-s 
Hamiri  came  back.  The  camels  had  not  been  able  to  ^'*'^""- 
pass  through  the  primeval  forest,  and  so  he  had  been  compelled 
to  return.  Now  I  only  wished  to  wait  for  the  definite  decision 
from  Witu,  from  whence  I  still  reckoned  on  assistance,  before 
making  my  final  resolve.  The  grain  on  the  Upper  Tana  was 
already  ripening.  Like  the  first  swallow  in  spring,  an  Arab 
had  a  few  days  before  passed  Engatana  in  a  boat  with  twenty 
loads  of  rice,  which  he  said  he  had  "  bought "  on  the  Upper 
Tana.     The  maize  cobs,  too,  were  already  gleaming  golden,  and 

7 


98  .Vt'ir  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

could  furnish  good  food.  It  was  towards  the  close  of  August, 
when  the  chief  harvest  time  of  these  lands  is  approaching.  On 
No  hope  the  25th,  in  the  morning,  came  the  report  that  there 
fromwitu.  -^yj^g  x^othing  more  to  be  expected  for  us  from  Witu. 
FiA'e  minutes  afterwards  I  gave  the  order  to  make  the  four 
boats  clear,  and  to  load  them.  The  time  of  gloom}'  brooding 
was  now  to  be  over.  If  the  fate  of  the  expedition  was  to  be 
accomplished  it  seemed  to  me  more  desirable  to  follow  the 
old  Virgilian  motto,  "  Tu  ne  cede  malis,  sed  contra  audentior 
ito,'"  than  to  receive  our  kismet  with  the  resignation  of  the 
Mahometan. 

Sixty-seven  loads  were  deposited  in  the  boats.  Wapokomo 
of  Engatana  were  requested  to  embark  in  them  as  boatmen.  In 
Onward  by  every  boat  a  soldier  was  posted,  with  a  loaded  repeating 
boat.  g^jj^  g^j^(j  ^j^g  command  of  the  whole  fleet  was  entrusted 
to  the  brave  Hamiri.  Towards  three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  the 
boats  Avent  off,  each  displaying  a  little  black,  white,  and  red  flag, 
that  fluttered  gaily  in  the  breeze.  An  hour  later  the  camels 
followed  with  forty  loads.  Then  I  sat  down  with  Herr  von 
Tiedemann  to  breakfast,  when  suddenly  it  was  reported  to  me 
Missionar  ^'^'^^  ^he  Somali  post  that  a  white  man,  an  Englishman, 
Hedden-     wished  to  speak  to  me.      This    last  designation  was 

Strom.  .  ^  ° 

incorrect ;  for  the  white  man  who  now  stepped  into  the 
tent  was  the  Swedish  missionary,  Heddenstrom,  from  Kulesa, 
above  Engatana,  whom  we  had  already,  on  the  previous  evening, 
seen  passing  our  camp  in  a  boat,  and  who  came  to  make  us  a 
certainly  not  very  edifying  communication. 

The  next  station  between  Engatana  and  Nderani  was  a 
village  called  Mitole,  near  which  there  is  a  tolerably  large 
forest.  Missionary  Heddenstrom  now  informed  us,  he  had 
certain  intelligence  that  there  were  concealed  in  this  forest 
three  hundred  men  belonging  to  Futilla,  a  formidable  Somali 
in  the  sultanate  of  ^Yitu,  under  a  Kau  Arab  named  Bwana 
Omari,  and  that  their  object  was  to  attack  our  camp,  or  lie 
in  wait  for  us  in  case  we  marched  through  the  forest. 

At  this  news  I  was  not,  indeed,  anxious  about  our  expedi- 
tion as  such,  but  I  feared  that  the   Arabs  might  attempt  to 


PREPARATIONS  FOR  DEPARTURE.  99 

get  possession  of  my  boats  in  case  thej'  put  to  shore  at  Mitole ; 
— I  consequently  gave  immediate  orders  that  Herr  von  Tiede- 
mann  should  betake  himself  at  once  to  Mitole  with  six  Dangers  at 
Askaris,  the  camel  men,  and  the  artillery,  to  clear  the  """i*- 
wood  and  protect  the  boats.  Herr  von  Tiedemann  accordingly 
set  out  at  once,  but  saw  nothing  of  the  reported  three  hundred 
Arabs.  I  may  mention  at  once  that  two  days  later,  in  a  wood 
between  Muina  and  Mbuji,  I  came  upon  a  few  hundred  figures, 
who  might  have  furnished  the  foundation  for  Heddenstrom's 
report.  I  immediately  had  my  ordnance  brought  up,  and  went 
forward,  armed  only  with  my  revolver  and  accompanied  by  five 
men,  towards  the  hill  where  the  fellows  stood ;  and  we  had  not 
even  to  fire  a  shot,  so  quickly  did  the  whole  assembly  vanish, 
like  chaff  before  the  wind. 

After  Herr  von  Tiedemann  had  marched  away  with  the 
Somalis  on  Sunday  afternoon  from  Mitole,  I  called  my  porters 
together,  and  gave  orders  that  they  should  make  everything 
ready  for  setting  out  on  the  following  morning.  I  told  them  I 
had  intelligence  that  the  harvest  was  ripe  on  the  Upper  Encourag- 
Tana  ;  that  I  had  had  enough  of  the  hungry  time  for  d^fgs^tothe 
my  people,  and  would  now  lead  them  into  districts  people, 
where  there  would  be  plenty  to  eat,  if  they  were  prepared  to  do 
their  duty.  These  words  did  not  fail  to  produce  a  good  effect. 
"  Maneno  niasuri  kapissa"  ("Exceedingly  good  words!"), 
replied  Nogola  in  the  name  of  all  the  porters,  and  the  feeling 
with  regard  to  the  departure  from  Engatana  was  manifestly  one 
of  pleasurable  excitement. 

It  is  a  remarkable  peculiarity  of  human  nature  that  we 
perhaps  feel  a  greater  attachment  to  places  in  which  we  have 
had  to  suffer,  than  towards  those  where  we  have  passed  happy 
days.      That  was  my  experience  on  Sunday,  August  ^^^^^_ 
25th,  after  Herr  von  Tiedemann  had  marched  away,  brances  of 

.     .  suffering. 

My  feeling  with  regard  to  quittmg  Engataaa  was  one 
of  deep  sadness.     I  once  more  visited  all  the  spots  where  I 
had  brooded  over  the  hard  strokes  of  fortune  that  had  alighted 
on   our   expedition,   and   could  hardly  refrain  from  tears.     1 
learned  to  my  joy  on  the  same  evening  that  Heddenstrom's 


100  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

report  had  been  unfounded.     Next  morning,  in  a  pouring  rain, 
I  sent  away  the  caravan  of  porters  likewise  to  Mitole. 

The  Wapokomo  of  Engatana  hypocritically  assumed  the 
appearance  of  a  kind  of  sorrow  at  their  parting  with  me,  but 
put  on  a  very  joyous  air  when,  at  the  last  moment,  I  made  them 
a  present  of  a  few  empty  boxes  and  chests.  We  parted 
from  the  Ostensibly  as  good  friends ;  but  this  did  not  prevent 
apo  omo.  ^^g^j,  ggj^tiiijg  an  embassy  to  the  Sultan  of  Witu,  with 
the  declaration  that  my  expedition  had  ruined  them,  and  a 
petition  to  be  allowed  to  found  a  new  village.  Ingratitude  is 
the  world's  reward  also  in  Africa.  It  was  a  great  satisfaction 
to  me  that,  when  we  began  our  march,  not  one  of  the  porters 
was  missing.  The  experiences  I  had  had,  nevertheless,  caused 
me  to  secure  with  cords  all  I  still  had  of  the  people  from  the 
Lamu  district,  and  to  lead  them  up  to  Oda-Boru-Ruwa  under 
especial  guard. 

M^hen  all  were  on  the  road,  in  a  continuous  pouring  rain,  I 
left  Engatana  with  Hussein  Far  a,  my  servant  Rukua,  and  Tell, 
the  last  remaining  one  of  my  dogs.  The  ground  was  so  clayey 
and  slippery  that  we  only  advanced  slowly,  and  did  not  reach 
Mitole  until  towards  twelve  o'clock,  though  it  is  only  seven 
and  a  half  miles  distant  from  Engatana.  I  was  very  glad  to  be 
able  to  substantiate,  on  this  journey,  that  the  remains  of  my 
rheumatism  had  disappeared. 

The  way  by  the  Tana  is  always  outside  the  belt  of  river 
scrub  that  runs  uninterruptedly  along  by  the  stream  in  its 
Scenery  of  lower  and.  middle  course.  Especially  in  the  middle 
the  Tana.  cQu^se  this  uuderwood  is  comparatively  broad,  so  that 
in  the  morning  we  had  to  work  our  way  tolerably  far  from  the 
camp  out  of  the  thicket,  and  in  the  afternoon  were  obliged  to 
work  back  to  it.  This  wood  is  only  broken,  in  the  immediate 
vicinity  of  the  villages,  by  plantations.  Here  are  growing 
bananas,  mtama,  maize,  batatas,  and  various  kinds  of  bean 
fruits. 

Seen  from  the  river,  the  banks  of  the  Tana  throughout  pre- 
sent a  very  charming  landscape  appearance,  whether  they  are 
bordered  by  plantations  or  by  bush  forest.     Outside  this  belt 


THE  STEPPE  AND   ITS   CHARMS.  101 

one  comes  upon  the  dry  steppe,  a  region  exceedingly  conAe- 
nient  for  the  march,  covered  with  mimosas  of  various  kinds, 
whose  thorns,  however,  often  unmercifully  tear  the  Eegjon  ^j 
clothes  and  skin  of  the  horseman.  Frequently  the  *^®  ^*^pp«- 
march  is  for  hours  through  tracts  of  cactus,  whose  hard  prickles 
become  dangerous  to  the  feet  of  porters  and  beasts  of  burden. 
This  steppe,  through  which  the  Tana  rolls  its  flood  along,  forms 
a  part  of  the  great  North-East  African  border  plains,  the  abode 
of  Somalis  and  Gallas.  Unfruitful  as  it  is,  from  its  aridity,  for 
plantations  of  any  kind,  it  yet  offers  a  very  picturesque  and 
lovely  scene  to  the  eye  of  the  traveller,  especially  after  the 
rainy  season,  and  also  affords  a  lively  and  exciting  picture  from 
its  wealth  in  game  and  animals.     There  is  the  ante- 

.  °  Animal  life 

lope  m  large  flocks  ;  there  may  be  seen  each  morning  of  the 
the  heavy  traces  of  the  elephant  and  the  rhinoceros  ;  °  *^^^' 
there  great  companies  of  baboons  and  other  apes  pursue  their 
gambols,  and  bucks  of  all  kinds  afford  welcome  occupation  for 
the  rifle.  In  the  air,  pea-hens  and  other  fowl  fly  abroad,  the 
wild  duck  and  the  wild  goose  sweep  by,  and  here  are  seen  the 
great  pelican,  vulture,  and  eagle. 

Nothing  more  delightful  can  be  imagined  than  a  march 
through  this  Tana  steppe  at  an  early  morning  hour.  When  the 
column  was  on  the  road,  in  good  order,  and  I  left  the  camp  in 
the  rear  of  all,  either  riding  my  horse,  or  striding  with  Hussein 
and  my  servants  through  the  dewy  steppe,  the  eye  ExHiarat- 
roved  delighted  over  the  plain  covered  with  its  strange  i^is'iimate. 
formations  of  bush.  Seldom  in  Europe  can  such  a  delicious 
elastic  clearness  of  the  air  be  enjoyed  as  is  found  in  the  morn- 
ing hours  in  Africa,  almost  under  the  Equator.  On  the  left, 
after  we  had  crossed  to  the  right  bank  of  the  Tana,  the  river 
winds  along,  a  dark-green,  snaky  line ;  before  us,  on  the 
horizon,  is  seen  the  column  of  porters,  like  a  little  straight 
thread  ;  and  behind  it  the  camels,  with  their  strange  swinging 
movement.  In  all  the  leaves  and  blades  of  grass  millions  of 
dewdrops  are  gleaming  like  diamonds,  in  the  bright  but  a  cheerful 
not  oppressive  tropical  sun.  The  heart  beats  higher  '^^'"'^■ 
with  joyous  excitement,  and  all  the  privations  of  the  life,  com- 


102  XEW  LIGHT  OX  DARK  AFRICA. 

pared  with  that  of  Europe,  are  forgotten  in  this  pure  feeling,  in 
viewing  this  manifestation  of  the  greatness  of  God,  which  offers 
itself  to  our  contemplation  more  immediately  here  than  where 
man  has  mingled  his  creations  with  it.  These  were  wonderful 
hours,  which  were  further  brightened  by  the  consciousness  that 
we  were  moving  towards  the  appointed  goal ;  that  we  were  on 
our  way  to  Emin  Pasha  in  the  Equatorial  Province.  Over  this 
first  part  of  the  expedition  lies  in  our  remembrance  a  bright, 
sunny  glow  ;  perhaps  because  the  impressions  of  Zanzibar  and 
the  coast  were  yet  recent  in  us,  and  formed  a  dark  background. 

On  these  marches  it  was  my  custom  to  leave  the  camp  last 
of  all,  and  then,  when  we  approached  the  goal  of  our  day's 
Order  of  the  march,  to  Overtake  the  others;  so  that  I  generally 
procession,  arrived  first  at  the  new  camping-ground.  It  was  Herr 
von  Tiedemann's  duty  to  march  immediately  behind,  and  with 
the  porters.  This  arrangement  was  modified  several  times 
during  the  course  of  the  expedition.  When  we  had  passed 
beyond  the  districts  where  we  could  procure  guides,  and  it 
became  necessary  to  settle  our  own  route  with  maps  and  the 
compass,  I  made  it  a  rule  to  march  at  the  head  of  the  expe- 
dition. But  here  we  were  still  in  the  territory  of  the  Wapokomo 
tribe,  where  in  every  village  a  few  ells  of  stuff  would  purchase 
the  services  of  a  guide  to  the  next.  To-day  we  are  encamped 
at  Mitole,  a  little  cheerful  place,  surrounded  by  plantations  of 
maize  and  bananas. 

Already,  as  I  drew  near  the  village,  the  elders  of  the  place 
came  out  to  meet  me,  to  complain  that  my  porters  had  plun- 
compiaints  ^^^^^  ^^^^^  maize  fields.  Sorry  as  I  was  for  the 
of  Mitofe^"  Wapokomo,  this  was,  in  one  respect,  an  agreeable 
piece  of  news  for  me,  as  it  proved  that  the  maize 
harvest  was  really  ripe,  and  that  I  should  accordingly,  in  all 
likelihood,  find  subsistence  for  my  people,  during  the  continu- 
ance of  the  expedition  along  the  Tana.  I  have  already  men- 
tioned that  I  had  with  me  a  writing  from  the  Sultan  of  Witu, 
addressed  to  the  village  elders  of  the  Wapokomo. 

The  reading  aloud  of  this  despatch  was  always  the  proud 
achievement  of  fat  Hamiri,  who,  according  to  the  varying  wants 


L]rP/!ES,<<IVE  ADDRESS  BY  IlAMrni:.  103 

of  the  expedition,  read  all  kinds  of  things  out  of  it,  with  a 
fluency  that  perfectly  amazed  us.  If  it  was  grain  we  wanted, 
he  would  annouuce  to  the  elders  in  a  loud  voice,  how  it  was 
the  particular  desire  of  the  Sultan  of  Witu,  that  all 
the  ^^  apokomo  should  hasten  to  bring  corn  and  maize,  imaginative 
If  we  required  boats,  it  was  boats  that  formed  the  ''°°-''™'='^- 
subject  of  the  Sultan's  letter.  Astonished,  like  the  ibwls  at 
the  preaching  of  Reynard  the  fox,  the  Wapokomo  would  stand 


/■Ls^sB-S^r^'r 


'  That's  the  Height  oe  the  Englishman  !  ' 


in  a.  half  circle,  listening  ;  and  they  were  filled  with  the  most 
profound  respect  when,  at  the  end  of  this  oration,  Hamiri 
exhibited  to  each  in  turn  the  seal  of  Fumo  Bukari,  with  which 
the  letter  was  stamped.  Then,  in  conclusion,  he  would  proceed 
to  explain  to  the  people  the  difference  between  the  Englishmen 
and  me.  The  Englishmen,  of  whom  every  one  in  the  district 
knew  that  they  wanted  to  prevent  the  expedition,  he  declared 
to  be  "  kidogo  kapissa  "  (exceeding  small),  and  he  would  hold 
his  outspread  hand  about  six  inches  over  the  ground  ;  I,  on  the 


104  XEW  LIGHT  OX  DARK  AFRICA. 

contrary,  was  "mkubua  sana;  "  and  he  would  hold  his  hand 
high — as  high  as  he  could,  and,  as  his  own  height  did  not  seem 
to  him  sufficient  for  the  occasion,  he  would  jump  two  or  three 
feet  from  the  ground.  The  worthy  chiefs  of  the  Wapokomo  were 
then  accustomed  to  quit  the  conference  with  a  secret  shudder, 
and  at  its  conclusion  they  would  bring  together  as  much  as 
they  could  collect  of  the  articles  demanded  by  Hamiri ;  the 
only  deplorable  circumstance  was  that  the  said  Hamiri  was 
much  given  to  the  practice  of  demanding,  say,  one  half  of  the 
supplies  thus  afforded,  for  his  own  worthy  person.  Whatever 
could  be  obtained  disappeared  in  his  insatiable  maw ;  a  fact  that 
did  not  greatly  conduce  to  his  popularity  in  the  caravan. 

If  at  Mitole  we  succeeded  in  some  measure  in  supplying  the 
wants  of  the  caravan,  aifairs  unfortunately  wore  a  very  different 
aspect  on  the  next  day  at  Muina,  a  village  lying  about  ten  miles 
A  difficult  further  up  the  stream.  The  journey  thither  was  already 
hungry  ^^'■T  exhaustiug  and  toilsome.  The  place  lies  very 
march.  rnuch  hidden  in  the  river  forest,  and  I  was  obliged  to 
send  forward  Wapokomo  to  cut  a  way  for  porters  and  camels 
through  the  tangled  underwood.  Thus  we  did  not  arrive  at  the 
place  until  between  three  and  four  o'clock.  Here  the  Wapokomo, 
if  indeed  they  still  possessed  anything  in  the  way  of  supplies, 
had  carefully  carried  it  away,  and  I  saw  myself  compelled  to 
have  one  of  the  six  oxen  I  had  with  me  slaughtered,  that  my 
people  might  have  something  to  eat.  I  immediately  entered 
into  negotiations  with  the  chiefs  of  this  place  for  the  supply  of 
boatmen  as  far  as  Oda-Boru-Ruwa,  and  these  negotiations  were 
Hiring  terminated  in  a  peaceful  manner.  The  twelve  Muina 
boatmen.  ^^^  whom  I  had  with  me  took  the  boats  up  safely  to 
the  Gallas  territory.  I  put  them  all  under  Hamiri's  special 
superintendence,  and  thus  I  had  personally  very  little  to  do 
with  the  management  of  the  boats. 

But  in  Muina  my  expedition  had  to  experience  a  porter's 
tragedy,  which,  if  it  had  no  other  result,  at  any  rate  decreased 
my  confidence  very  considerably.  After  I  had  made  all  prepara- 
tions for  next  morning's  march,  I  went  to  bed  at  nine  o'clock  ; 
but  I  was  aroused  even  before  eleven  o'clock  by  my  servant 


DETAINED   AT  MUINA.  105 

Rukua,  who  came  to  tell  me  "Pagasi  wiote  wamekimbia"  ("All 
the  porters  have  run  away").  This  certainly  proved  to  be  an 
exaggeration,  for  Nogola  came  directly  afterwards,  and  E^eiting 
reported  that  eight  porters  had  just  absconded,  taking  '^^^^  '='"'- 
their  wives  with  them  ;  but  these  were  not  coast  people,  thrporters. 
but  Mangemas.  In  the  fact  that  the  Central  African  men  were 
beginning  to  desert  lay  the  alarming  element  of  the  affair,  quite 
apart  from  the  inconvenience  of  the  reducing  of  the  expeditiori 
by  the  loss  of  eight  bearers.  I  immediately  had  the  Somalis 
mustered,  and  at  once  despatched  six  of  them  in  a  boat 
down  the  Tana  to  Mitole,  with  orders  to  capture  the  porters, 
who  would  make  their  way  to  the  place  by  land,  or  to  shoot 
them  down.  The  Somalis,  under  the  command  of  Nurr,  posted 
themselves  in  ambush  in  the  forest  near  Mitole.  As  they  could 
not  get  the  porters,  who  were  seen  approaching  at  dawn  of  day, 
to  stand,  they  shot  two  of  them,  whose  corpses  were  thrown  into 
the  river. 

Meantime  I  lay  dozing,  with  very  unquiet  dreams,  in  my  tent. 
I  fancied  myself  back  at  Neuhaus,  on  the  Elbe,  my  native  place, 
but  still  occupied  in  getting  back  the  absconding  porters.  The 
dream  ended  each  time  with  the  sudden  discovery  that  all  my 
porters  had  run  away.  Next  morning,  however,  I  so  far  re- 
strained myself  as  to  compliment  Nogola,  to  whose 
tribe  the  runaways  belonged,  in  the  presence  of  all  the  the  best  of 
people,  on  his  vigilance.  I  thus  effaced  the  evil  im-  ^*' 
pression  which  the  absconding  of  eight  men  might  have  made, 
by  putting  the  others  in  good  humour.  I  was  now  obliged  to 
stay  at  Muina  until  my  Somalis  returned  from  Mitole  ;  but 
towards  noon,  having  succeeded  in  obtaining  some  maize  from 
the  neighbourhood,  I  sent  Herr  von  Tiedemann  with  the  porters 
up  the  river  to  Mbuji.     Meanwhile  I  remained  encamped  at 


Muina,  with  very  gloomy  prospects  for  the  future.      I  uespond- 
derived  a  certain  amount  of  comfort  from  the  perusal  ency  and 

n  T-*        1  •    philosophy 

of  a  chapter  in  Schopenhauer's  "  Parerga  "  and  "  Parali- 


pomena,"  on  the  apparent  design  in  the  fate  of  the  individual, 
wherein  Arthur  Schopenhauer  demonstrates  the  necessity  of 
everything  that  has  happened.     But  after  all,  in  situations  of 


106  XEW  LIGHT  ON  BARK  AFRICA. 

real  difficult}-,  the  thought  that  we  suffer  from  the  inevitable  is 
not  a  very  powerful  consolation.  Still,  as  the  mind  in  this  way 
arrives  at  the  recognition  of  a  fixed  plan  and  providence  in  the 
world,  there  is  a  certain  amount  of  comfort  to  be  extracted  from 
it.  It  was  also  on  this  day  that  I  had  leisure  to  reflect  on 
Goethe's  advice,  not  to  be  too  fond  of  the  sun  and  the  stars,  but 
to  follow  even  into  the  empire  of  darkness.  The  first  two  lines, 
Avhich  I  have  prefixed  to  this  chapter,  appeared  to  me  at  the 
time  especially  suitable  to  our  condition,  inasmuch  as  Herr  von 
Tiedemann  had  suffered,  in  bodily  health,  and  in  elasticity  of 
mind,  by  the  action  of  the  sun,  and  I  had  paid  dearly  for 
incautiously  exposing  myself  to  the  starry  sky. 

On  the  evening  of  August  28th  I  made  up  my  mind  to  cross 
the  Tana  on  the  following  day,  and  to  enter  English  territory. 
On  the  one  hand  this  would  certainly  create  an  additional 
barrier  between  my  expedition  and  Lamu,  but  on  the  other  I  had 
ascertained  that  the  right  bank  of  the  Tana  was  more  highly 
cultivated,  and  thus  would  aff'ord  better  points  of  support  for 
my  advance.  The  British  East  Africa  Company  had,  indeed. 
Foreign  previously  informed  me  that  it  could  not  allow  me  to 
hostility,  march  through  its  territory  ;  but  I  knew  then,  as  well 
as  I  do  to-day,  that  the  British  East  Africa  Company  had  no 
right  to  issue  such  a  prohibition,  as  all  these  regions  fall  under 
the  provisions  of  the  Congo  Treaty,  which  guarantees  an  equal 
right  of  colonisation  and  freedom  of  transit  to  all  the  contracting 
powers.  On  the  same  evening  I  made  Lieutenant -Captain  Rust, 
further  down  the  river,  acquainted  with  this  my  decision. 

Next  morning  I  was  considerably  delayed  at  Muina,  because 
the  boatmen  engaged  by  me  the  day  before  had  not  put  in  an 
Departure  appearance.  I  was  obliged  to  have  the  surrounding 
boatBfrom  region  rausacked,  and  pick  them  up  as  I  could,  where- 
Muina.  upon  J  gent  them  down  under  a  safe  escort  to  the  boats. 
Shortly  before  my  departure  I  received,  to  my  great  joy,  a 
Good  news  Communication  from  Lieutenant-Captain  Rust,  dated 
articles  of  fi'om  Ngao,  informing  me  that  he  had  effected  the 
barter.  journey  to  that  place,  and  that  the  articles  of  barter 
that  Herr  Toeppen  had  looked  after  at  Zanzibar  had  already 


GOOD   TIMES   OF  PLENTY.  107 

arrived  at  Kau.  This  was  an  extremely  welcome  piece  of 
news.  The  dangerously  uncertain  character  that  the  expedition 
threatened  to  assume  was  now  suddenly  altered,  and  the  affair 
brought  into  a  practicable  track.  If  I  had  articles  of  barter  I 
could  procure  means  of  porterage ;  and  if  Rust  was  on  the 
Lower  Tana,  this  was  another  door  closed  between  my  porters 
and  the  coast.  I  could  now  dispose  more  freely  of  the  few 
articles  I  had  with  me,  and  thus  possible  causes  of  quarrel 
between  the  natives  and  my  expedition  would  be  obviated. 
In  buoyant  spirits  I  accordingly  quitted  Muina,  between  seven 
and  eight  o'clock,  and  betook  myself  to  the  road  toM'ards 
Mbuji. 

It  was  on  this  march  I  had  the  encounter,  already  mentioned, 
with  a  few  hundred  armed  men,  who  ran  away  precipitately 
before  me  and  a  few  Somalis.     The  incident  had  no  further 
practical  result  than  that  of  increasing  my  contempt  for  the 
African  world  in  general,  and  thus  working  favourably  upon 
my  later  resolutions.      When  I  approached  Mbuji,   Herr  von 
Tiedemann  met  me,  and  I  thought,  "What  disagreeable  news 
may  he  have  brought  ?  "     Herr  von  Tiedemann  had  the 
same  feeling  with  regard  to  myself.     But  this  August  good  for- 
29th  was  to  be  a  day  of  good  fortune  for  us.     Herr  von 
Tiedemann  had  to  report  that  he  had  discovered  an  Arab  rice 
magazine  of  twenty  to  thirty  loads ;  while  I  could  give  him,  in 
return,  the  glad  tidings  of  the  approach  of  Lieutenant- Captain 
Rust.     As  the  rice  store  was  in  a  territory  into  which  Herr  von 
Tiedemann  had  forced  his  way  a  few  weeks  before   to  a  supply 
defend  himself  against  warlike  proceedings,  we  declared  o^""^' 
it  to  be  lawful  prize  according  to  the  rights  of  war  ;  and  now, 
after  their  sufferings  from  hunger,  my  people  for  the  first  time 
revelled  in  plenty.     Men  and  beasts  filled  their  empty  stomachs 
with  the  precious  grain,  and  the  feeling  in  the  camp  was  one  of 
pleasurable  excitement. 

I  determined  to  cross  the  river  that  same  afternoon. 
Towards  one  o'clock  my  boats  made  their  appearance  ;  and 
now  I  began,  in  the  first  instance,  to  send  across  a  few  soldiers 
with  Herr  von  Tiedemann,  and  then  boat-load  after  boat-load  of 


108 


.V/:il'    fJClIT   ox   HARK   AFRICA. 


packages  of  amiiuuiition  was  transported  to  the  opposite  side. 
The  \A'apokomo  of  Kosi  >,'derani,  who  had  assembled  od  the 
opposite  bank  at  our  arrival,  disappeared  like  chaff  before 
tlk'   wind,  so  soon  as  we   began   to  operate    with    our    boats. 

We  worked  the  whole  afternoon  ;  camels,  oxen,  and 
of  the  donke3's  were    fastened    behind    the    boats,    and    thus 

taken  over  to  the  o]iposite  side.  In  the  evening  at  six 
o'clock  the  ])assage  of  the  Tana,  had  been  accomplished.     I  had 


The  pas 

sage 

Tana. 


Crossing  the  Tana  at  Mbdji. 


the   camp  pitched,  and  the  porters  were  watched  all  the  night 
through  by  five  sentries  with  loaded  guns. 

When  the  Nderani  people  saw  that  we  had  succeeded  in 
establishing  ourselves  upon  their  bank,  and  heard  that  I  in- 
tended to  march  next  morning  upon  Kosi  itself,  the  Sultan 
Visit  of  the  appeared  in  the  evening  with  some  of  the  chief  men  of 
Sultan.  ^Y\^,  j)lace,  threw  himself  on  the  ground  before  me,  and 
begged  for  peace.  I  enjoined  him  to  furnish  a  guide  on  the 
morrow,  to  have  a  way  cut  through  the  forest,  and  to  supply 


PENINSULA    OF  KOSI  NDERANI.  109 

two  miaus.  When,  on  his  part,  though  in  a  frightened  tone, 
the  man  demanded  presents  as  restitution  for  the  men  shot 
by  Herr  von  Tiedemanri,  I  answered  him  roughly,  and  this 
item  disappeared  from  the  order  of  the  day.  Meanwhile  our 
relation  to  each  other  remained  but  a  "sour-sweet"  one. 

During  the  night  I  three  times  visited  my  sentries,  who  were 
guarding  the  porters.  While  my  attention  was  entirely  con- 
centrated on  this  point,  a  Kau  Arab,  named  Ahmed,  who  was  in 
my  service,  managed  to  play  me  a  shabby  trick.  He  unmoored  a 
miau  containing  nine  loads,  broke  up  the  loads  with  an 

1  1      1  T  ,  A  piece  of 

axe,  and  sank  them  down  the  stream,  afterwards  over-  Arab 
turning  the  miau.    On  the  following  morning  I  managed,  ^^^^  ^^^' 
indeed,  to  recover  the  miau  itself  and  two  loads  of  preserves, 
but  we  had  lost  two  chests  of  bombshells  and  grenades,  the 
whole  of  our  library,  two  loads  made  up  of  tea,  cocoa,  coffee, 
sugar,  and  salt,  a  chest  containing  tow,  revolvers,  parts  of  guns, 
etc.,  the  only  load  of  beads  I  possessed,  and  a  load  of  cognac. 
Nevertheless  I  caused  the  column  to  march  away  next  morning 
for  Nderani,  carrying  with  me  all  the  boat-loads,  which  j.oj,fjfig^ 
from  that  time  I  always  had   regularly  landed.      In  camp  at 
Nderani  I  established  myself  in  a  strong  camp,  which 
I  caused  to  be   completely  surrounded  by  sentries  ;    and  on 
August  31st  I  went  with  two  boats,  four  soldiers,   and  two 
porters  back  to  Mbuji,  where  I  succeeded  in  finding  out  the 
place  where  Ahmed  had  sunk  the  loads. 

The  first  thing  we  fished  up  was  Thomson's  "  Through 
Massailand,"  which  afterwards  did  me  good  service.  We 
worked  the  whole  day  long,  and  presently  got  up  a  number  of 
bombshells  and  grenades.  To  continue  this  work  I  myself 
remained  at  Kosi  Nderani  on  September  1st,  on  which  Description 
day  I  sent  away  Herr  von  Tiedemann  with  porters  and  ofNderam. 
camels  to  Makers.  Kosi  Nderani  is  a  charming  and  ex- 
ceedingly fruitful  peninsula,  running  out  into  the  Tana,  where 
the  French  missions  of  St.  Mary  and  the  Sacred  Heart  esta- 
blished a  station  only  half  a  year  later  ;  which,  however,  had 
to  be  abandoned,  as  the  place  was  too  much  subject  to  inunda- 
tions of  the  Tana.      The  Wapokomo  here  have  a  wealthy  and 


110  XEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

prosperous   appearance,  for   we   are   now  reaching  the    most 
productive  districts  of  the  Lower  Tana. 

On  September  1st  I  succeeded  in  recovering  about  half  the 
lost  goods  from  Mbuji,  and  in  procuring  two  more  miaus  at 
Kosi.  I  had  now  seven  miaus  in  all,  of  which  I  sent  one  down 
A  supply  of  to  Ngao  to  Lieutenant-Captain  Rust,  under  guard  of  a 
™^='^=-  Somali  soldier,  with  the  order  to  send  me  part  of  the 
articles  of  barter  as  soon  as  he  should  have  got  together  a 
small  array  of  boats.  On  the  morning  of  September  2nd,  ^yith 
a  few  of  my  people,  I  followed  Herr  von  Tiedemann  to  Makere, 
after  taking  a  friendly  leave  of  the  Sultan  and  his  followers.  I 
was  struck  by  the  enormous  number  of  game  animals  on  this 
tract.  Great  herds  of  antelopes  awoke  the  instinct  of  the 
Game  chase,  and  I  practised,  for  the  first  time,  the  art  of 
animals,  pm-guing  the  herds  of  antelopes  on  horseback,  and 
shooting  one  of  them  down  from  the  saddle, — certainly  with 
a  negative  result.  This  is  the  manner  in  which  the  Somalis 
are  accustomed  to  hunt ;  they  kill  the  lion  from  their  horses 
with  lances.  In  Makere  I  found  my  people  safe  and  sound,  and 
at  once  entered  into  friendly  relations  with  the  Wapokomo. 
But  when  I  enjoined  them  to  bring  in  provisions  and  to  provide 
guides  for  the  following  morning,  to  lead  me  to  Keredja, 
the  whole  population  vanished  at  once ;  and  to  prevent  my 
people  from  suffering  again  from  hunger  I  was  obliged  to  supply 
Tribute  Kiyself  on  my  own  account,  from  the  ripening  maize 
from  the  fields.  When  my  men  made  use  of  the  permission 
^'accorded  them,  the  Wapokomo  sought  to  drive  them 
away  by  force,  on  which  occasion,  to  my  regret,  two  of  them 
were  wounded  by  my  people.  The  foolish  suspicion  of  the  Wapo- 
komo was  continually,'during  the  further  course  of  the  expedition, 
giving  rise  to  similar  incidents.  They  could  not  imagine  that 
any  one  who  had  so  much  power  in  his  hands  as  we  possessed 
could  make  up  his  mind  loyally  to  fulfil  the  obligation  incurred, 
and,  like  the  real  "  Friend  Lampes  "*  that  they  are,  they  pre- 
ferred to  abandon  house  and  home,  and,  if  necessary,  wife  and 

*  Lampe  is  the  hare  in  the  burlesque  epic  of  "  Reynard  the  Fox.''     He 
i.s  depicted  as  exhibiting  the  proverbial  timidity  of  his  race. — Te. 


KIN  A   KOMBE  AND  ITS  SULTAN.  Ill 

child  also,  rather  than  maintain  relations  with  us.  To  get  them 
to  come  back  to  Makere  I  at  last  threatened  that  if  this  were 
not  done  I  would  burn  down  their  village;  but  even  charaoter- 
this  threat,  which,  by  the  way,  I  did  not  carry  into  t^g°^f  „ 
execution,  did  not  induce  them  to  return ;  and  thus  it  ^0™°- 
happened  that  on  the  following  morning  I  had,  for  the  first 
time,  to  start  without  a  guide  on  my  way  to  Keredja. 

This  day  again  it  rained  very  heavily,  and  my  column  had 
to  suffer  considerably,  especially  the  camels,  which  I  could  not 
put  under  shelter  at  night,  and  which  succumbed,  one  after 
another,  to  the  hardships  of  this  Central  African  climate. 
Here,  at  Keredja,  however,  I  had  at  least  friendly  intercourse 
with  the  natives,  who  brought  me  food,  and  sold  me  a  large 
miau,  which  would  carry  fifty  loads.  When  I  had  completed 
this  purchase,  I  sent  away  two  of  the  miaus  I  had  brought 
with  me  to  Lieutenant-Captain  Rust  at  Ngao.  On  September 
4th  I  arrived  at  Kina  Kombe,  the  chief  place  of  the  ,    .    , 

^  .     Arrival  at 

whole  territory  of  the    Lower    Tana.      The  place  is  Kina 
so  hidden  in  the  primeval  forest  that  in  the   after-    "^  ^' 
noon  we  had,  in  the  first  instance,  marched  past  it,  and  only 
arrived,  by  a  very  circuitous  route,  towards  five  o'clock.     Here 
is  a  comparatively  intelligent    Sultan,   the    only    ^\'apokomo 
on    all    the    Tana  who  makes  anything  like  a  dignified    im- 
pression upon  one.    Kina  Kombe  is  a  great  village,  surrounded 
by  a  strong    fortification  ;    besides  the  Wapokomo  who  live 
here,  it  is  inhabited  also  by  Gallas  and  Waboni.     The  j^^g^^g^ 
Sultan    led    me    into   a    house    belonging    to    Herr  with  the 
Schlumke,    who    from    here    had    carried    on    ivory- 
hunting.      In    this    house   I  stayed  the  night.      The   Sultan 
declared   his  willingness  to  sell  me  food,  and  asked  me  to 
forbid  my  Somalis  to  go  into  the   place,   as  the   Somalis  on 
the  one  side  and  the  Gallas  and  Wapokomo  on  the  other  were 
deadly  enemies.     Food  was  also  brought  in  abundance,  and  I 
determined  to  stay  here  through  September  5th  to  feed  my 
people  up  a  little. 

On  the  morning  of  September  6th  we  resumed  our  route,  to 
reach  a  camping-place,  not   far  from  the  English  station   of 


112  XEW  LIGHT  OX  DARK  AFRICA. 

Subakini,  by  five  in  the  afternoon,  after  a  very  heavy  march. 
According  to  the  accounts  I  had  received  at  Kina  Kombe,  I 
had  to  expect  that  I  should  at  length  meet  the  English 
ftatiof  expedition  of  Mr.  Smith,  whose  intention  it  was,  I  had 
at  subakim.  ^^^^  ^^^^^  ^^  ^^^^^  ^^  further  advance  up  the  Tana. 

Consequently,  I  did  not  march  that  evening  as  far  as  Subakini, 
for  I  wished  to  bring  a  fresh  and  a  quiet  mind  to  the  contem- 
plation of  this  English  problem  next  morning.  As  the  affair 
greatly  interested  me,  I  marched  the  next  day,  with  ten  soldiers 
and  my  loaded  ordnance  in  advance,  towards  the  English  station. 
I  presumed  that  I  should  find  Mr.  Smith  just  at  breakfast,  and 
already  rejoiced  when  I  thought  of  our  salutation.  Just  before 
the  place,  I  drew  my  column  of  camels  around  me,  made  a 
circuit  round  the  English  station,  and  appeared  suddenly  on  the 
western  side,  in  sight  of  it.  A  lively  rattle  of  musketry 
resounded  in  the  station  when  they  saw  me.  I  galloped  up, 
and  as  my  Wapokomo  ran  away  the  moment  they  heard  the 
firing,  in  order  to  give  them  courage  I  jumped  my  horse  over 
the  not  very  high  enclosure  of  the  station.  This  was  certainly 
not  a  very  prudent  proceeding,  supposing,  as  I  at  first  thought, 
the  firing  had  a  hostile  intention.  But  hardly  had  I 
the  Arab  jumped  dowu  from  my  horse,  revolver  in  hand,  in  the 
garrison,  j^^^jg^  ^^  ^j^g  Arab  garrisou,  than  they  all  bowed  before 
me,  and  kissed  my  hands.  They  said  the  firing  had  been 
intended  as  a  salute  ;  and  I  heard  immediately  that  Mr.  Smith 
had  already  marched  away  a  few  days  ago,  and  was  accordingly 
still  in  advance  of  me.  I  also  received  positive  intelligence 
here  that  the  Pigott  expedition  had  gone  to  wreck  on  the  Upper 
Tana.  The  very  intelligent  chief  of  the  station,  a  half-breed 
Arab  from  Zanzibar,  behaved  very  amiably  to  us,  pointed  out 
a  very  beautiful  camping-place  under  a  mighty  fig-tree  in  a 
field  of  maize,  brought  me  rice  for  my  private  use,  and  also 
poultry,  and  procured  me  miaus  from  the  inhabitants  of  the 
place,  so  that  I  was  able  to  dispatch  two  more  boats  the  next 
day  to  Lieutenant-Captain  Rust  at  Ngao.  Unfortunately  on 
this  day  my  own  six  miaus  did  not  arrive,  and  therefore  I 
resolved  to  wait  for  them,  with  some  few  of  my  people,  on 


SATISFACTORY  DEVELOPMENT  OF  AFFAIRS.  113 

September  8th  at  Subakini,  sending  Herr  von  Tiedemann 
forward  once  more  with  the  porters.  He  was  to  march  upon 
Sissini,  where  I  would  overtake  him  on  September  9th.  He 
was  to  accomplish  the  long  march  to  Sissini  in  two  days,  so 
that  no  loss  of  time  might  arise  from  my  waiting  at  Subakini. 
Here,  from  Subakini,  I  wrote  a  detailed  report  to  the  German 
Emin  Pasha  committee,  sent  the  two  miaus,  as  I  have  stated, 
to  Lieutenant-Captain  Rust,  and  at  about  two  o'clock  Arrival  of 
I  was  rejoiced  to  see  my  own  flotilla  of  miaus,  under  ^fth'tL 
Hamiri,  sailing  up  with  colours  flying.  I  sent  this  "i^*"^- 
flotilla  onward  towards  Sissini  the  same  day.  Thus  things 
developed  themselves  at  Subakini  in  a  very  satisfactory  way. 
How  the  report  could  have  originated,  that  was  afterwards 
despatched  in  telegrams  to  Germany,  that  I  had  established 
myself  here  for  a  lengthened  stay,  and  was  waiting  at 
Subakini  for  goods  from  the  coast,  has  never  been  clear  to 
me.  Perhaps  it  arose  from  the  fact  that  I  had  my  letter  from 
here  forwarded  through  the  agency  of  the  English  mission 
at  Goldbaute. 

Already  on  September  9th  I  marched  to  Sissini,  where  I 
rejoined  my  main  column.  Here  also  I  succeeded  in  procuring 
plentiful   supplies    of    food   for   my   people.      I   still 

•  1  ,  1     ■       n  ^\  L-  11   Sissini. 

contmued  to  have  their  hrearms  taken  away  irom  all 
the  porters  every  evening,  and  posted  two  sentries  to  prevent 
any  possible  further  desertions  ;  but  gradually  I  began  to  show 
more  confidence  with  respect  to  the  people,  as  the  relations 
between    us    had    desirably    altered   to    my   advantage.     On 
September    10th    I    arrived    at    Malalulu,    where    we    were 
altogether  out  of  the  territories  of  the  Sultan  of  Witu.  The  Ger- 
Here  I  resolved  to  hoist  the  German  flag  for  the  first  Sristedit 
time  on  the  north  side  of  the  Tana,  to  make  -it  clear  to  Maiai»i"- 
the  English  that  the  sphere  of  their  interests  extended  only 
to  the  southern  side  of  that  river.     On  a  lofty  mast  our  flag 
was  run  up,  and  waved  in  these  regions,  for  the  first  time,  in 
the  evening  breeze,  saluted  with  volleys  of  musketry  and  some 
cannon  shots.     I  had  brought  over  from  the  Sultan  of  Malalulu, 
on  the  opposite  bank,  a  sheep,  to  celebrate  the  day,  and  on  my 


114  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

part  bestowed  on  the  W apokomo,  as  a  return  gift,  a  camel  which 
had  fallen  that  day. 

From  here  we  went  forward  in  long  marches  towards 
Massa,  which  we  reached  on  September  12th.  The  grain  was 
Arrival  at  iiow  completelj^  ripe,  and  the  whole  Wapokomo  com- 
Massa.  munitj  in  a  very  jovial  humour  in  consequence.  In 
the  next  villages  to  which  we  came  it  was  rather  difficult 
to  meet  with  sober  people  with  whom  we  could  negotiate,  as 
the  yellow  grain  is  consumed  chiefly  in  the  form  of  brown 
pombes  or  beer.  The  consequence  to  us  was,  however,  that  we 
also  had  enough  to  live  upon,  and  the  expedition  accordingly 
consolidated  itself  more  and  more.  Massa  is  the  name  of  a 
whole  region,  whose  settlements  lie  on  both  sides  of  the  river. 
The  Massa  The  chief  place  is  on  the  northern  bank  of  the  Tana, 
region.  ^^^  ^^^  Sultau  of  it  asked  me  to  hoist  the  German  flag 
there,  and  concluded  a  treaty  of  protection  with  me.  To  make 
the  relations  between  us  more  intimate,  I  remained  in  this 
district  on  September  13th,  because  for  me  and  for  Rust's 
column  it  was  of  especial  importance  to  completely  assure 
ourselves  of  this  last  great  place,  before  entering  upon  the  Tana 
steppe  proper. 

Some  distance  above  Massa  the  lower  course  of  the  Tana, 
where  that  river  has  formed  a  fruitful  alluvial  tract  in  the  dry 
steppe,  comes  to  an  end,  and  we  get  to  the  middle  part  of  the 
Lowest  river's  course,  in  which  the  character  of  the  steppe  is 
Murse^of  completely  maintained.  The  middle  course  is  marked 
the  Tana.  -\^j  ^jjg  abseuce  of  alluvium  and  by  the  close  approach 
to  the  stream  of  high  steppe-shores.  We  hoisted  the  German 
flag  on  September  18th  at  Massa  in  the  middle  of  the  village 
square.  It  was,  as  before,  saluted  with  firing  of  cannon,  and 
in  the  evening  a  great  popular  festival  was  held  in  the  place, 
duly  to  celebrate  the  joyful  occasion.  Hamiri  was  the 
manager  of  this  popular  entertainment,  which  consisted  in  a 
Cheerful  general  dance  of  the  Wapokomo  ;  that  is  to  say,  of  the 
^nceofthe  male  part  of  the  population.     To  the  beat  of  drum 

Wapokomo.  -\^^^■^■, 

and  the  rhythmical  hand-clapping  of  all  the  ladies  in 
the  place  the  old  Sultan  and  the  different  Wapokomo  danced 


.1    2IERRY   VILLAGE   C02niUNITY.  115 

along,  in  all  kinds  of  more  or  less  graceful  or  ungraceful 
evolutions,  in  front  the  old  Sultan,  who,  during  the  afternoon, 
had  enjoyed  himself  over  the  cognac  in  my  tent,  and  in  his 
own  quarters  had  already  done  adequate  justice  to  the  pombe. 
After  supper  we  crossed  over  to  the  right  side  of  the  river,  to 
get  a  nearer  view  of  this  spectacle  ;  and  when  I  considered  the 
cowardice  of  these  robust  fellows,  which  had  exhibited  itself  all 
along  the  Tana  in  a  perfectly  comic  fashion,  I  was  obliged 
involuntarily  to  think  of  friend  Lampe,  with  his  family,  how  he 
enjoys  life  guilelessly  and  merrily,  but  yet  is  always  on  the 
alert  to  escape  by  flight  from  real  or  fancied  danger.  Noctnmai 
Till  late  into  the  night  the  sounds  of  the  "ngoma,"  or  ^^^t^^ai. 
drum,  sounded  across  into  our  camp,  till  at  last  I  made  them 
call  out  to  the  people  beyond  the  river,  that  now  there  had  been 
enough  of  it,  and  I  requested  they  would  go  to  sleep. 

From  Massa  we  marched  on  September  13th  to  Bura,  which 
also  lies  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Tana.  Here  we  arrived  as 
early  as  eleven  o'clock  in  the  morning.  I  sent  to  ask  the 
Sultan,  on  the  opposite  side,  to  come  across,  which  he  imme- 
diately did  ;  and,  early  as  the  hour  was,  the  old  gentleman 
was  considerably  heated  ;  in  fact,  he  and  his  whole  following 
were  completely  drunk  at  eleven  in  the  morning.  They  laughed 
incessantly,  and  made  the  most  absurd  remarks.  Con-  ^n  excited 
sequently,  I  sent  the  Sultan  back  again,  and  pointed  assembly, 
out  to  him  that  he  should  despatch  to  me  some  one  who  was 
not  drunk.  So,  after  an  hour,  his  brother  appeared,  and  made 
excuses  for  the  lofty  potentate,  who  had  been  enjoying  his 
early  pombe,  and  lamented  that  the  Sultan  was  in  general  too 
much  addicted  to  that  liquor.  Unfortunately,  I  had  to  point 
out  to  the  brother  that  he  was  in  no  better  condition  than  the 
Sultan  ;  but  as  he  replied  by  naively  declaring  that  he  was  the 
least  intoxicated  man  in  the  whole  village,  I  retained  him  in 
my  company,  with  an  intimation  that  he  would  have  to  ^^^  g^^^.^^ 
remain  in  mv  camp  until  the  Wapokomo  had  brought  as  a 

■^  ^  hostage. 

food  across  for  my  column.     There  were,  it  appears, 

some    difficulties    connected  with   this ;    accordingly,    in    the 

afternoon  I  despatched  some  soldiers  to  Bura,  which,  however. 


116  .VEir  LIGHT  OX  DARK  AFRICA. 

only  resulted  in  setting  the  whole  populous  element  scampering. 
Onlj'  the  servants  of  the  Sultan's  brother,  wishing  to  rescue 
their  master  out  of  my  hands,  towards  evening  sent  a  few 
boat-loads  of  maize,  for  which  I  paid.  As  my  repeated  re- 
quests were  ineflfectual  in  drawing  from  their  forest  retreats  the 
Wapokomo,  who  must  by  that  time  have  got  over  their  fit  of 
intoxication,  I  found  myself  compelled  to  borrow  a  fine  large 
miau  without  their  express  permission  ;  but,  as  a  pledge,  I  left 
behind  me  at  Bura  one  of  the  small  miaus  I  had  brought 
with  me. 

The  question  of  provisioning  began  to  be  a  serious  one  for 
me,  as  I  knew  that  I  was  close  to  the  entrance  to  the  steppe, 
stron  ^^^  ^^^^  ^  must  get  together  a  supply  for  a  few  days 
measures    for  my  people,  to  enable  me  to  get  to  Oda-Boru-Ruva. 

for  procur-  .  . 

ingpro-  On  the  toUowmg  day,  at  Ischarra,  I  accordingly  saw 
visions,  iiayself  necessitated,  inasmuch  as  I  was  sufficiently 
acquainted  with  the  cowardly  tactics  of  the  Wapokomo,  to  take 
into  custody  all  the  three  chiefs  of  the  place  immediately  on 
my  arrival,  to  detain  them  until  sufficient  corn  should  be 
brought  in  for  my  column.  Here  I  heard  for  the  first  time 
that  hordes  of  Somalis  were  roving  in  the  surrounding  country. 
The  Wapokomo  told  me  that  a  few  days  previously  some 
Somalis  had  visited  them,  and  plundered  them  completely  out. 
TheGaiia  At  Ischarra  we  first  came  into  the  regions  of  the 
regions.  Galla  language.  Until  we  arrived  there,  the  men  of 
higher  rank  among  the  W^apokomo  had  always  talked  a  little 
broken  Kiswahili ;  the  language  of  the  Gallas  now  took  its 
place.  From  olden  times  the  Gallas  ruled  here,  who  have  now 
been  thrust  back  upon  Oda-Boru-Ruva.  I  managed,  with  the 
utmost  exertion,  to  procure  sustenance  for  us  at  least  for  one 
day,  and  also  to  obtain  a  little  meat  for  the  morrow.  In  view 
of  the  danger  from  the  Somalis,  I  arranged  a  strict  sentry 
service  for  the  night,  with  great  fires  before  the  camp,  which 
were  kept  up  all  night  long ;  however,  no  Somali  made  his 
xidori,  on  appearance  among  us.  On  September  15th  we  reached 
the  Tana,  gifjoj-i,  the  last  Settlement  of  the  Wapokomo  on  the 
lower  course  of  the  Tana.      I  consider  this  place  as  forming 


ON   TO    THE   UNINHABITED  STEPPE.  117 

the  point  of  separation  between  the  lower  and  middle  course  of 
the  river.  The  inhabitants  complained  that  they  had  been  eaten 
out  of  house  and  home  by  the  English  expedition  of  Mr.  Smith, 
and  gave  me  more  accurate  details  on  the  wrecking  of  the 
English  expedition  by  Somalis,  which  had  occurred  at  a  point 
somewhat  above  this  place.  Already  at  Massa  I  had  received 
into  my  column  a  few  porters  who  had  fled  there  before  the 
catastrophe  happened,  and  had  learned  the  fact  that  Beported 
Mr.  Smith  had  been  surprised  and  beaten  by  a  horde  smith*  "^ 
of  Somalis.  Here  I  heard  that  in  broad  day,  at  three  expedition, 
in  the  afternoon,  thirty  Somalis  had  managed  actually  to  defeat 
the  English  expedition  of  one  hundred  and  sixty  men  armed 
with  guns,  and  to  hurl  it  back  upon  Kidori.  This  seemed  to 
me  not  so  much  to  evidence  the  efficiency  of  the  Somalis  as  the 
miserable  spirit  in  the  English  expedition.  For  me,  it  had  the 
effect  of  making  me  much  more  cautious  in  arranging  the 
details  of  management  of  my  expedition. 

At  Kidori  I  only  succeeded  in  provisioning  my  people  to 
a  very  small  extent ;  I  had  therefore  to  trust  to  my  fortune, 
and  strike  into  the  steppe  without  a  supply  of  corn,  scarcity  of 
Thereby  the  position  of  the  expedition  became  a  very  s"^""^- 
difficult  one.  In  this  steppe,  which  we  entered  on  September 
16th,  we  certainly  found  here  and  there  settlements  of  hunting 
Mboni ;  but  of  these  people  themselves  we  nowhere  caught 
sight.  There  was  something  quite  unearthly  about  the  fashion 
in  M'hich  they  were  acquainted  with  every  one  of  our  move- 
ments, to  the  smallest  detail,  without  our  even  once  getting  to 
see  them.  The  Mboni  is  swift-footed  as  the  antelope  Nature  of 
he  pursues,  and  keen-sighted  as  the  falcon  he  brings  ^^^  Mbom. 
down  from  the  air  with  his  bow  and  arrow.  I  had  taken  two 
guides  with  me  from  Kidori,  who  were  originally  to  have  led 
me  only  as  far  as  Oda.  So  soon  as  I  ascertained  that  I  could 
not  procure  other  guides  onward  from  this  place,  I  saw  myself 
compelled  to  put  them  in  chains,  and  carry  them  with  me 
through  the  steppe.  Though  they  were  not  acquainted  with 
the  route  by  land  across  the  steppe,  they  had  several  times 
gone  up  the  river,  and  knew  its  bendings.     By  hard  severity 


118 


xr:]]'  ijciir  <>x  i>mik  afiuca. 


I  effected  thus  nuicli   in  a  few  days,  tliat  they  at  least  only 
made  such  assertions  ;is  they  were  sure  of  bein<i  able  to  verify. 

As  regards  the  road  itself, 
[  was  entirely  unable  to 
make  enquiry  in  an_v  other 
direction. 

At  Oda  an  incident  hap- 
pened that  is  characteristic 
of  the  spirit  existinij;  in  my 
expedition,  and  may  there- 
fore l)e  related  by  me. 
Hamiri  had,  as  was  quite 
right,  the  command  of  the 
boats;  but  through  his  whim- 
sical egotism,  that  made  hiii] 
arrogate  everything  to  him- 
self, a  bitter  hatred  had  heeu 
gradually  aroused  in  the 
whole  column  against  hira. 
Hamiri  A  Mangema  bearer, 
and^pembo-  Pembomoto,    had 

quarrel.         gQ^e     tO     the     plaCB 

where  the  boats  lay,  to  wash 
himself.  Hamiri  w;iuted  to 
turn  him  away,  and  without 
further  preface  the  two  were 
engaged  in  a  violent  light, 
in  which  their  chief  weapons, 
heirribly  enough,  were  their 
teeth.  Pembomoto  bit 
Hamiri  in  the  breast,  and 
Hamiri  toue  Pembomoto's 
(■yebrows  from  his  forehead. 
Thereupon  the  Mangemas 
came  to  me,  and  demanded 
that  Hamiri  should  be  punished.  \>'hen  I  caused  Hamiri,  and 
Pembomoto  also,  to  be  put  in  chains,  they  suddenly  rose  up,  and 


On  the  Taxa. 


FIGHT  BETWEEN  PEMBOMOTO  AND  HAillRI.  119 

threatened  that  if  I  would  not  punish  Hamiri,  they  themselves 
would  attack  him  and  cut  him  down.     The  spokesman  of  the 
Mangemas  was  Nogola,  a  demagogic  champion  of  the  first  order, 
who  terrorised  his  people,  and  at  that  time  still  kept  the  whole 
column  in  fear  of  him.      At  that  moment  the  question  was 
whether  Nogola  or  I  was  to  be  master  of  the  expedition ;  and  I 
met  his  impudent  words  by  ordering  all  the  people  to  fall  in, 
stationing  the  Somalis  with  loaded  repeating  rifles  around  the 
porters,  having  the  latter  deprived  of  their  guns,  and  Nogola 
put  in  chains.     This  settled  the  affair.     From  that  day  Nogola's 
credit  declined  rapidly,  and  the  recurrence  of  a  riot  such  as 
that  of  September  16th  was  out  of  the  question.     Here  „ 
Hussein  once  more  rejoiced  me  by  a  very  neat  pro-  idea  of 
position,  and  one  that  is  characteristic  of  the  Somalis.  ''"^  "*' 
"Master,"  said  he,  "dost  thou  wish  Nogola  dead.P     Then,  do 
not  have  him  shot  before  the  porters,  or  they  will  all  run  away. 
Simply  tell  him  he  is  to  march  with  the  camels  to-morrow,  and 
then  we  will  shoot  him  down  from  behind."    As  a  distinguishing 
mark  of  this  proposal,  I  must  add  that  Hussein  and  Nogola 
were  very  good  friends,  and  continued  so  during  the  whole 
further  course  of  the  expedition.     Hussein  could  never  rightly 
understand   why,    on    my    part,   I   declined   this  exceedingly 
practical  offer  of  his. 

On  Tuesday,  September  17th,  the  real  difficulties  of  the 
march  through  the  steppe  began.  In  the  afternoon,  at  half-past 
one,  after  an  eight  hours'  march,  all  steaming  and  a  weary 
glowing  with  heat,  we  reached,  instead  of  the  camping-  "'^"^'='^- 
place  traced  out  for  us,  a  primitive  forest,  without  finding  water. 
I  now  perseveringly  looked  for  the  traces  of  the  English 
caravan,  which,  after  being  surprised  by  the  Somalis,  had 
advanced  again  on  this  side  of  the  river ;  and  I  knew  for  a  cer- 
tainty that  if  we  did  not  find  the  English  spoor  on  this  Tuesday, 
we  should  undoubtedly  be  compelled,  wanting  food  as  we  did,  to 
turn  back.  Therefore  I  left  to  Herr  von  Tiedemann  the  com- 
mand of  the  expedition,  which  presently  found  water,  and  I 
betook  myself,  with  Rukua  and  Nogola,  to  the  search  for 
the   English  road.      At  about   two   o'clock  we    succeeded   in 


120  XEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

finding  traces  of  footsteps.     So  soon  as  I  had  found  this,  I 
sent  Rukua  back  into  the  camp  to  inform  Herr  von 

Tr8.cfis  of  

the  English  Tiedemann  that  I  should  follow  the  English  traces 
expedition,  ^.^^  j  came  to  their  camping -place  by  the  water,  and 
I  desired  that  something  to  eat  and  a  blanket  might  be  sent 
to  me. 

It  is  quite  unnecessary  to  give  here  the  description  of  a 
march  through  the  steppe,  with  the  sun  in  the  zenith  and  the 
More  torments  of  thirst.  This  has  been  very  often  done,  and 
ttnraih^  the  reader  would  after  all  not  get  a  clear  conception 
the  steppe,  from  a  description.  After  close  and  repeated  observa- 
tion of  my  own  sensations,  I  have  come  to  the  conclusion  that 
the  tortures  of  thirst  bear  the  closest  resemblance  to  the  torments 
of  suffocation.  Perhaps  the  proportion  between  them  may  be 
thus  stated :  the  torment  of  suffocation  is  in  the  same  measure 
more  intense,  as  the  time  required  for  dying  by  thirst  is  longer 
than  that  for  death  by  suffocation.  It  is,  in  truth,  a  fearful 
torment.  On  September  17th  I  had  to  experience  it  in  all  its 
anguish.  We  continued  marching  till  sunset,  and  it  was  only 
just  before  the  coming  on  of  darkness  that  I  succeeded  in 
Fire  signal  breaking  through  the  thicket  towards  the  river,  and 
at  the  river.j-eaching  the  bank.  To  give  my  servants  who  might 
follow  me  an  indication  of  the  way,  I  ordered  Nogola  to  set 
trees  on  fire ;  and  soon  the  sea  of  flame,  visible  for  miles, 
towered  above  the  steppe,  mirrored  in  the  flood  of  the  Tana ; 
and  with  its  roaring  and  hissing  voice  singing  a  mighty  slumber 
song  to  me,  as,  weary  to  death,  with  my  boots  under  my  head 
for  a  pillow,  and  my  loaded  double-barrelled  rifle  resting  on  my 
arm,  I  stretched  myself  to  rest.  Towards  nine  o'clock  I  heard 
shots  fired  at  a  distance.  I  answered  them,  and  half  an  horn- 
later  I  was  surrounded  by  a  few  of  my  servants,  who  brought 
me  some  food.  Herr  von  Tiedemann  had  even  packed  up  one 
of  the  last  half  bottles  of  sekt.  With  what  comfort  I  set  about 
the  business  of  eating  and  drinking,  only  those  will  understand 
to  whom  such  situations  are  known.  The  feeling  of  comfort, 
through  contrast  of  the  present  circumstances  with  the  past 
endurance,  is  converted  into   sauciness  and  joviality.     Next 


'"^ 


¥ 


wi 


^ 


STRICT  REGULATIONS  FOR    THE  MARCH.  121 

morning  at  five  o'clock  I  sent  Nogola  back  to  the  expedition  to 
serve  as  guide.  I  myself  once  more  followed  the 
English  traces.  At  ten  o'clock  I  came  to  the  camping-  track  of  the 
place  of  that  expedition  by  the  river,  and  here  i^"^^"**- 
awaited  the  arrival  of  my  column  that  was  marching  from  the 
south-east.  This  day  we  continued  our  march  till  three  in  the 
afternoon. 

Such  a  journey  through  the  steppe  is  always  hot,  and  as  a 
rule  also  dusty,  but  it  has  great  attractions  for  the  leader  of 
an  expedition.     Beasts  of  burden  and  men  pass  along 

1^  o  Severity  of 

With  equal  pace  and  uninterruptedly,  inasmuch  as  the  steppe 
latter  also  do  not  see  much  temptation  in  the  shadow-  ^°^'"^^^^- 
less  plain  to  fall  out  of  the  ranks  and  rest.  When,  therefore, 
the  caravan  is  once  set  in  motion,  at  least  towards  the  after- 
noon, it  lies  entirely  in  the  will  and  pleasure  of  the  leader  in 
what  direction  it  shall  bend  its  course,  or  where  it  shall  halt. 
The  preparations  for  the  march  used  now  to  begin  regularly  at 
five  in  the  morning,  and  at  about  a  quarter  to  six  the  porters, 
under  Tiedemann,  would  start,  while  it  was  generally  six  before 
the  camels  and  donkeys  could  follow.  I  left  the  camping- 
ground  when  the  last  beast  and  the  last  man  had  gone.  „ 

~  _  ~  Theroutiue 

Then  I  would  remain  behind  till  the  word  was  passed  of  march- 

iuff. 

and  the  steppe  reached  ;  thereupon,  as  a  rule,  I  rode 
past  the  loaded  animals,  to  get  the  porters  in  sight.  Generally 
I  would  turn  back  once  more,  to  let  the  camels  defile  past  me. 
Towards  midday  I  was  accustomed  to  leave  these  behind  me, 
and  gradually  to  advance  to  the  head  of  the  column.  Such  had 
been  the  rule  of  march  under  ordinary  circumstances. 

Matters  assumed  another  form  now  on  our  march  through 
the  steppe,  where  I  had  to  make  out  the  way  and  take  the  head  of 
the  column.  This  steppe  would,  but  for  the  Tana,  be  alto- 
gether untraversable  for  an  expedition  with  porters ;  it  is  only 
the  Tana,  which  is  here  entirely  without  tributaries,  that  sources  of 
furnishes  the  life-giving  element  of  water.  That  it  was  ^^^  ^*''^- 
able  to  roll  such  ample  masses  of  water  through  the  sandy 
plain  to  the  Indian  Ocean,  made  me  already  at  that  time  form 
an  estimate  of  the  great  volume  of  the  sources  from  which  it 


122  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

gushes  forth.  The  Tana  receives  its  waters  from  the  same 
plateaus  from  which  the  Nile  issues  forth  to  flow  northwards. 
In  fact,  in  its  whole  conformation  it  may  he  called  a  Nile  on  a 
small  scale.  Like  the  larger  river,  it  has  carried  itsownarahle 
land  into  the  desert,  and,  as  with  the  Nile,  the  middle  course  of 
the  Tana  has  the  real  steppe  character  which  I  have  described. 
Through  this  steppe  we  travelled  in  a  march  of  five  days. 
It  was  a  march  for  life  or  death.  After  I  had  slaughtered  the 
last  ox,  on  September  18th,  we  were  for  three  days 

Tfirriblfi 

suffering  without  food  of  any  kind,  and  were  exposed,  besides, 
from  want.  ^^  ^^^  danger  of  perishing  of  thirst.  On  the  17th  we 
reached  the  region  of  Korro-korro,  which  we  passed  in  one 
day,  as  we  were  in  continual  danger  of  losing  the  English 
spoor,  finding  no  way  to  the  river,  and  succumbing  to  thirst.  I 
now  made  my  people  march  from  five  in  the  morning  until 

sunset. 

So  we  went  on  uninterruptedly  on  September  18th,  19th, 
and  20th.  The  worst  day  was  September  21st,  when  I  marched 
at  the  head  of  the  expedition  from  early  in  the  morning  until 
half-past  six  in  the  evening,  when  at  last,  in  the  darkness,  I 
made  my  way  to  the  Tana,  and  not  only  found  water,  but  also 
the  prospect  of  obtaining  provisions  next  day.  On  September 
21st,  a  Saturday,  I  found  the  first  settlement  of  the 

Arrival  at 

theGaiia     Gallas  in  Odagalla.     Herr  von  Tiedemann,  with  the 
emen  .  jj^g^j^j-j^y  ^f  ^jjg  porters,  did  not  reach  the  camp  at 

all  on  this  occasion.  He  was  compelled  to  pass  the  night  in 
the  steppe,  amid  frightful  torments  of  thirst,  although  on  that 
night,  between  Saturday  and  Sunday,  I  had  the  whole  forest  by 
the  river  set  on  fire,  so  that  the  flames  blazed  up  to  the  firma- 
ment, as  a  signal  from  us  to  the  Gallas  that  the  expedition  of 
the  Germans  had  arrived.  It  was  not  until  towards  noon  on 
the  Sunday  that  Herr  von  Tiedemann  arrived ;  all  the  rest  of 
the  day,  stragglers  were  coming  in.  In  the  morning  I  had 
already  succeeded  in  procuring  some  maize  from  the  island 
opposite  us,  and  here,  to  my  regret,  I  had  again  been  obliged 
to  put  in  practice  the  expedient  of  chaining  the  Sultan  when 
he  paid  his  visit,  because   otherwise  my  column  would  have 


ODA-BOlir-RrVA    TN  SIGHT. 


12?, 


rim  a  great  risk  of  actually  perishius;  tlirouoh  hunger.  In 
the  afternoon  I  ^vas  also  fortunate  enough  to  get  a  purchase 
of  hens  from  a  neighbouring  villasje,  so  that  Herr  von 

■^  '  '-  .  Beginning 

Tiedemann  and  I  were  able  once  more  to  refresh  our-  of  better 
selves  with  iiesh  meat.  I  remained  at  Odagalla  through-  "^^' 
out  iNIonda}'  the  23rd,  because  one  of  mj"  people  had  not  made 
his  wa}"  in  from  the  steppe, — a  certain  Amdurabi,  who  carried 
the  load  containing  my  private  blankets.  He  appeared  at  last 
on  September  26th,  emaciated  and  three  parts  dead,  at  my  camp 
at  Oda-Boru-Ruva.  On  Tuesday,  September  24.th,  while  it 
was  yet  early,  1  broke  up  my  camp  Triumphal 
at  Odagalla  ;  and  now,  with  waving  od^-soru- 
flag  and  beat  of  drum,  we  went  ^'^^^ 
forward  to  the  great  Galla  sultanate  of 
Oda-Boru-Ruva,  seven  English  miles 
distant.  Towards  eleven  o'clock  we 
found  the  path  through  the  primeval 
forest  to  the  river,  and  half  an  hour 
later  avb  saw  for  the  first  time  before 
■  us,  on  the  other  side  of  the  Tana,  the 
rich  plantations  and  the  villages  of 
the  Gallas  of  Oda-Boru-Ruva. 


1777/  THE  GALLAi<  IN  ODA-BOIW- 
RUVA. 

"  Within  tliy  bosom  are  thy  fateful  stars." 

SCHILLEE. 

TOWARDS  noon  I  encamped 
with  my  caravan  in  the  prime- 
val forest  of  the  Tana,  opposite  the 
settlements  of  the  Gallas,  Avhich 
were  seen  gleamina;  trom  the  o])po- 
site  side.  \Ye  had  the  pleasure — 
the  first  occasion  for  a  long  time 
—  of  once  more  seeing  maize 
plantations.  Bnt  the  thing  to  he 
done  was  to  establish  communica- 
tions with  the  opposite  shore  ot 
the  river,  which  was  a  matter  of 
-•  difficulty,    as    my    boats    had    not 

Scouts  sent  yet    arrived.      I    therefore  sent 

across  the    ^ 

■  .-   river.         some  Souialis  across   the   river, 

which   is  tolerably   broad  at  this    point,    and    they  succeeded 
in  getting  possession   of  a  boat,  which  they  brought  over  to 


THE  GALLAS   OF  ODA-BORU-RUVA.  125 

US.  They  reported  that  the  whole  district  was  deserted.  I 
sent  the  boat  back  once  more,  and  made  them  bring  two 
more  Galla  boats  across.  I  now  crossed  with  a  few  soldiers 
and  my  servants  to  the  left  bank  of  the  Tana,  leaving  the 
actual  column  behind  under  the  guard  of  Herr  von  Tiede- 
mann.  As  I  could  not  at  all  tell  how  the  Gallas  would 
behave  at  our  arrival,  I  at  once  ordered  one  of  the  boats  to  the 
maize-fields,  to  have  it  filled  with  grain,  and  then  q^  the 
taken  to  the  camping-place  we  had  yet  to  find  out.  "^^^^  "^«'^- 
Meanwhile  we  rowed  past  a  broad  fork  of  the  river,  followed 
the  southern  arm,  and  at  last  landed,  after  an  hour  and  a  half, 
at  a  little  village  on  the  right  hand,  where  I  saw  a  few  people. 
This  was  a  slave  settlement  of  the  Gallas,  and  consisted  chiefly 
of  Suahelis  of  the  sultanate  of  Witu,  who  had  been  kidnapped 
by  the  Gallas  and  dragged  to  this  place.  It  happened  by 
chance  that  Bin  Omar,  whom  I  had  with  me,  had  formerly 
been  a  very  good  friend  of  one  of  these  slaves,  named  An  old 
Mandutto,  and  at  once  resumed  his  old  relations  with  ance^^^'^* 
him.  Under  a  mighty  tree  a  bench  had  been  fixed,  '^e'^og'^iBed. 
and  here  I  sat  down,  at  once  sending  back  my  boats  to  bring 
more  men  across ;  and  I  sent,  moreover,  an  invitation  to  the 
Sultan  of  the  Gallas,  asking  him  to  give  himself  the  trouble 
to  come  to  me,  that  we  might  consult  about  our  quarters. 
They  brought  me  fruit  and  maize  cobs  to  eat,  and  apparently 
the  Suaheli  were  much  rejoiced  at  the  arrival  of  our  expedition. 

An  hour  had  passed  before  Sultan  Hugo  appeared  with  his 
suite.  He  was  a  little  man,  with  a  very  cunning  look,  dressed 
in  a  kind  of  brown  toga  gown,  and  decked  out  with  a  -^^  suitan 
copper  chain  round  his  neck,  and  thick  bracelets  of  the  "^  "^aiias. 
same  material.  In  his  hand  he  carried  a  lance,  according  to 
the  custom  of  the  Gallas. 

These  Gallas  are,  as  a  rule,  of  an  imposing  appearance. 
Tall  and  of  slender  build,  they  exhibit  the  same  type  I  had 
formerly  admu-ed  in  the  Somalis.  The  shape  of  the  face  is 
entirely  different  from  that  of  the  negro,  and  in  its  narrow, 
delicately-cut  features  reminds  one  entirely  of  the  Caucasian. 
Their  dark  eyes  have  a  melancholy  look  in  them,  but  begin  to 


126  NEW  LIGHT  OX  DARK  AFRICA. 

sparkle  when  their  hearts  are  sth-red  by  passion.     The  Gallas 
belong  to  the  handsomest  peoples  of  the  earth,  and  have  some- 
thing very  noble  in  their  carriage.     In  their  language 

Description  ^  •'  .  loi  i-  -ii 

of  the  the}'  have  a  close  aflanity  to  the  bomalis,  with  whom, 
Gauas.  nevertheless,  they  live  in  deadly  enmity.  Wherever  a 
Somali  and  a  Galla  may  meet,  they  stand  towards  each  other  in 
a  state  of  warfare.  The  Somalis  themselves  say  that  the  two 
had  formerly  been  one  nation,  but  parted,  because  the  Gallas 
remained  faithful  to  the  old  national  belief,  while  the  Somalis 
adopted  the  teaching  of  Mahomet.  The  Gallas  of  Oda-Boru- 
Ruva,  especially,  belong  manifestly  to  the  race  of  the  Borani 
Gallas  that  still  ruled  in  the  north,  but  were  in  the  course  of 
centuries  carried  down  by  the  Somali  flood  into  the  country  of 
the  Bararetta  Gallas,  from  whence,  according  to  their  own 
assertion,  they  were  again  chased  towards  the  north  by  the 
Wakamba.  They  had  now  been  settled  for  a  long  time  on  the 
great  island  of  the  Tana,  which  they  called  Oda-Boru-Ruva, — ■ 
Oda  signifying  fork  of  the  river  ;  Boru,  to-morrow  morning ; 
The  Wapo-  and  Ruva,  rain  ; — and  from  hence  they  held  under  their 
komo.  dominion  the  Wapokomo,  who  are  seated  along  the 
Tana  to  the  neighbourhood  of  Hameje.  These  Wapokomo  have, 
indeed,  still  their  own  Sultan,  who  has  his  place  in  the  councils 
of  the  Gallas,  but  are  obliged  to  do  menial  service  for  the 
ruling  Gallas  caste,  especially  in  the  matter  of  boat  navigation. 
Besides  this,  as  I  have  already  mentioned,  the  Gallas  keep 
slaves,  who  have  to  do  their  work  in  the  fields,  and  other  labour 
of  the  kind.  These  slaves  are  settled  in  special  villages,  and 
also  hold  possession  of  some  arable  land  for  themselves  and 
their  families;  but  they  are  never  in  a  position  to  accumulate 
property,  because  what  they  have  is  regularly  taken  from  them 
by  their  masters,  the  Gallas.  To  all  appearance  the  two  races 
lived  in  a  good  understanding  with  each  other,  the  intelligent 
Mandutto  being  the  representative  of  Suaheli  interests  with  the 
The  Sua-  Dallas  ;  but  a  bitter  hatred  had  arisen  in  secret  between 
heiiofthe   the  governing  race  and  the  governed,  and  this  was 

Tana  .  o  ? 

destined  to  have  a  very  remarkable  influence  on  the 
fortunes  of  our  expedition.     The  Suaheli  of  the  Lower  Tana 


THE  SULTAN  HUGO   AND  HIS  MEN.  127 

considered  themselves  as  really  the  superior  race,  and  gnashed 
their  teeth  at  the  haughtiness  with  which  the  proud  Gallas 
treated  them.  They  were  especially  enraged  at  the  fact  that 
the  young  Galla  warriors  seized  their  wives  and  daughters 
at  their  pleasure.  Among  the  sufferers  from  this  state  of 
things  was  Mandutto,  with  whom  I  soon  entered  into  closer 
relations,  and  who  afterwards  became  a  valuable  member  of 
my  expedition. 

Taking  all  things  together,  the  Gallas  of  Oda-Boru-Ruva 
are  in  a  very  constrained  position,  threatened  on  all  sides.  In 
the  north  they  have  to  defend  themselves  against  the  Somalis ; 
in  the  west  they  fight  against  the  Wandorobo,  and  from  the 
south-west  the  Wakamba  make  raids  upon  their  herds. 
According  to  my  estimate,  the  Sultan  Hugo  had,  in  the  position  of 
year  1889,  still  about  one  thousand  two  hundred  warriors  *''*  "^^n^^- 
at  his  disposal.  "  Look  at  my  warriors,"  he  once  said  to  me, 
when  I  made  it  a  reproach  that  the  once  powerful  race  had  re- 
treated to  this  island  of  the  Tana ;  "  only  look  at  my  warriors  ! 
Once  they  numbered  many  thousands  ;  they  have  now  shrunk  to 
hundreds.  In  every  direction  we  have  to  fight,  and  I  can  see 
the  day  coming  when  the  foot  of  a  Galla  shall  no  longer  speed 
through  the  steppes  on  the  Tana."  Thus  these  Gallas  resemble  the 
tribes  of  North  American  Indians — stubborn  in  resistance,  but 
destined  to  perish ;  and  there  is  a  mournful  strain  in  their  fate. 
From  the  outset  I  had  a  strong  S3"mpathetic  feeling  for  this  war- 
like and  heavily-oppressed  race — these  proud  men  with  the 
melancholy  eyes,  and  the  reserved,  pensive-looking  girls,  whose 
outward  appearance  forcibly  recalled  the  type  of  the  gipsy  women. 
This  interest  was  not  extinguished  in  me  when,  later  „^  . 

°  '  Their  per- 

on,  I  was  obliged,  through  the  development  of  events  sonai  ap- 
and   the   hard  necessity  of  self-preservation,  to   use  p^*'^*'"'*' 
forcible  measures  against  the  Gallas  ;  and  it  had  a  great  share 
in  deciding  the  position  I  took  up  with  regard  to  the  tribe, 
after  the   combat  I  had  to  wage  with   them  in  the  night  of 
October  6th. 

The  settlements  and  villages  of  the  Gallas  spread  them- 
selves out  in  a  pleasing  manner  over  Oda-Boru-Ruva.     The 


1-28 


xr.iv  Tjanr  ox  dark  Africa. 


foot   -wanders    there    as    through  a    garden,  maize    field    after 

maize  field  ajipears,  interspersed  with  banana  plantations  and 

hatatn,  fields.      The    houses    are    certainly   small    and 

Beauty  of  .  .  • 

their  round,    after   the   manner   of  haycocks,   but   they  are 

conn  ry.  ^^\^,.^^^  j^^(|  jj^^at.  Oda-Boru-Ruva  had  its  origin  in  the 
alluvium  of  the  Tana,  and  is  an  oasis  in  the  midst  of  the  steppe, 
which  se]iarates  it  towards  the  east  from  the  cultivated  strips  of 
land  of  the  Lower  Tana,  and  towards  the  south,  Avest,  and  nortli, 


Tana  Landscape,  near  Oda-Boru-Euva. 

from  Wapokonin,  Massais,  and  Somalis.  Here  every  kind  of  cul- 
tivation would  be  possible  ;  for  instance,  the  native  tobacco  is 
quite  suited  to  European  taste,  and  was  smoked  by  us  for  a  long 
time.  As  the  river  affords  the  means  of  a  cheap  communica- 
tion with  the  coast,  so  also  the  fmitfulness  oi"  the  soil  and 
the  enchanting  loveliness  of  the  landscape  directly  invite  the 
foundation  of  a  station,  the  more  so  as  the  Gallas  themselves 
declari'  that  from  this  part  a  trade  in  ivory  is  already  carried 
on  with  the  elephant  countries  in  the  west,  and  that  it  seems 
capable  of  ready  development. 


FIRST  NEGOTIATION  WITH  SULTAN  HUGO.  129 

In  bold  sweeping  curves  the  Tana  rolls  along  by  Oda- 
Boru-Ruva,  and  the  eye  roves  delighted  over  the  river,  whose 
shores  are  covered  either  with  plantations  or  with  course  of 
stately  woods,  and  which,  besides  Oda-Boru-Ruva,  *^«  '^^''^■ 
forms  a  number  of  larger  and  smaller  islands  at  this  part.  A 
breath  of  sweet  poetry  rests  upon  the  landscape,  and  invites 
the  spirit  to  dreamy  and  abstracted  contemplation. 

When,  on  September  24th,  I  entered  into  my  first  negotia- 
tions with  Sultan  Hugo,  I  could  not  suppose  that  this  sunny 
and  poetic  region  would  very  soon  be  the  scene  of  the  first 
serious  battle,  for  the  German  Emin  Pasha  Expedition.  Sultan 
Hugo  at  the  very  beginning  gave  permission  for  my  expedition 
to  take  up  its  quarters  opposite  the  island  of  Oda-Boru- 

If  6Grotis>- 

Ruva,  on  a  place  that  should  be  assigned  to  us.  He  tions  with 
also  said  that  he  would  take  counsel  with  the  elders  of  ^^^  ^^^^^ 
the  tribe,  to  open  a  regular  market  for  the  provisioning  of  my 
people.  Among  the  Gallas,  the  Sultan  cannot  by  himself 
decide  any  important  question  ;  he  is  rather  a  chosen  magis- 
trate than  a  hereditary  ruler.  Although  it  would  appear  that, 
in  general,  the  lineal  succession  is  maintained,  the  Gallas  are 
not  bound  to  observe  it,  and  the  Sultan  is  even  liable  to  be 
deposed  if  he  administers  his  ofiice  badly.  The  decision  is 
always  with  the  council  of  elders,  which  also  pronounces 
sentence  in  cases  of  heavy  crimes  committed  against  members 
of  the  community.  It  was  to  a  council  of  this  sort  that 
Sultan  Hugo  at  once  betook  himself,  in  the  interior  of  the 
island,  promising  to  send  me  boats,  to  bring  me  to  the  landing- 
place  that  should  be  assigned  to  me.  For  further  explanation 
he  left  with  me  Gall-Galla,  a  Galla  who  had  been  stolen  in  his 
childhood  from  the  Arabs,  and  had  long  lived  as  a  slave  in  the 
sultanate  of  Witu.  He  had  gone  through  an  adventurous 
career,  and  had  lived  for  years  among  the  Kavallala  Somalis  ; 
in  consequence,  besides  knowing  the  Galla  language,  he  Avas 
master  of  the  Arabic,  Kiswahili,  and  Kisomali,  which  was  of 
great  value  for  us.  At  my  wish,  he  at  once  sent  messengers  to 
my  column  in  the  forest,  to  bring  them  to  the  landing-place 
appointed  for  them. 


130  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

During  this  time  I  was  waiting  for  the  boats  the  Sultan  had 
promised  ;  and  with  the  two  boats  at  my  disposal,  I  caused 
about  twelve  men  to  be  carried  across  the  river  to  me.  The 
boats  promised  by  Hugo  not  arriving,  I  declared,  towards  three 
o'clock,  that  I  would  march  down  the  river  bank  towards  the 
island  till  I  came  to  the  point  opposite  the  landing-place,  and 
then  the  Gallas  should  set  me  across.  The  Gallas  refused  to 
do  this,  and  I  had  to  threaten  them  with  war,  to  avoid  damaging 
Difficulties  our  positiou  at  the  outset,  and  to  carry  ray  point.  For 
and  delays,  three-quarters  of  an  hour  we  marched  under  Gall- 
Galla's  guidance  up  the  island,  and  past  the  settlements  of  the 
Gallas.  We  were  not  conducted  into  any  of  these.  At  the 
entrances  there  were  always  standing  fierce  troops  of  Galla 
warriors,  who  gazed  with  hostile,  threatening  looks  upon  the 
strangers.  At  length,  after  passing  several  Wapokomo  villages, 
we  reached  a  clear  space  by  the  Tana  river,  from  which,  to  my 
great  joy,  I  could  already  see  my  people  and  camels  on  the 
opposite  shore.  Under  a  giant  tree,  with  which  I  was  destined 
to  become  much  better  acquainted  in  the  course  of  the  next  few 
weeks,  I  aM'aited  the  boat,  which  soon  carried  me  across  to  my 
column  on  the  opposite  side.  The  boat  laden  with  maize,  which 
I  had  ordered  in  the  morning,  had  already  arrived,  and  I  was 
accordingly  able  to  distribute  food  to  my  people  at  once.  But 
a  really  joyous  state  of  mind  was  not  to  be  attained. 

Our  camping-place  was  a  burnt-out  steppe,  from  which  the 
wind  continually  whirled  up  black  masses  of  ashes.  The  view 
upon  the  Tana  was  certainly  a  charming  one,  and  the  landscape 
in  the  background  presented  a  striking  and  yet  pleasant  wood- 
land scene ;  but  I  found  immediately  on  my  arrival  that  the 
locking  of  our  ordnance  would  not  act,  and  this  present  case 
at  once  suggested  serious  anticipations  as  to  what  might  be 
further  in  store  for  the  expedition.  Here  I  had  to  wait  for  the 
Waiting  second  column  under  Lieutenant-Captain  Rust.  Sup- 
second  pose  a  misfortune  happened  to  it,  and  it  did  not  join 
column,  n^gp  -^Tg^g  jjy^  perhaps  Oda-Boru-Ruva  the  ultimate 
point  of  our  German  Emin  Pasha  Expedition  altogether  ?  Yes, 
for  the  moment  itself  I  was  in  grave  embarrassment.    My  boats, 


THE  CAJIP  BY  THE  RIVER.  131 

with  the  few  articles  of  barter  which  I  possessed,  had  not 
arrived.  Would  they  be  sufficient  to  secure  for  us  so  much  as 
a  lengthened,  peaceful  stay  at  Oda-Boru-Ruva  ? — Such  were 
my  cogitations  as,  sitting  on  a  chest,  I  ordered  the  camp  to 
be  pitched. 

Towards  half-past  five  o'clock  Sultan  Hugo  suddenly  made 
his  appearance,  with  some  hundreds  of  his  warriors,  on  the 
opposite  bank,  and  summoned  me  to  come  to  a  conference  under 
the  above-mentioned  great  tree.  I  made  a  few  soldiers  step 
into  the  boat,  and  rowed  across  to  Hugo.  But  these  little  Tana 
canoes  are  so  rickety,  and  my  people  were  so  unskilled  in 
managing  them,  that  before  we  could  reach  the  opposite  shore 
our  boat  was  upset,  and  I  had  to  proceed,  swimming,  to  the 
conference'  with  the  Gallas ;  a  somewhat  comic  episode,  which 
was  frequently  repeated  during  the  next  weeks,  and  lost  us  a 
load  of  goods  and  several  guns.  When  I  emerged  from  the 
water  among  the  Gallas,  dripping  with  wet.  Sultan  Hugo  an- 
nounced to  me  that  the  Gallas  were  ready  to  open  a  market 
for  us  for  our  necessaries,  and  that  he  personally  intended  to 
give  me  some  fowls.  But  when  I  asked  him  to  send  g^^^^^ 
me  one  at  once,  as  I  had  not  yet  eaten  anything  that  Hugo's  coa- 

.,,.  11-..  li  cessions. 

day,  he  considered  it  would  be  time  enough  to-morrow 
morning  ;  and  I  could  not  induce  him  to  change  his  opinion. 
Thus  it  happened  that  on  this  evening  we  had  to  satisfy  our 
hunger  on  boiled  maize  and  butter,  and  that  the  newly-awakened 
feeling  arose  in  my  mind,  that  perhaps  the  peace  policy  I  had 
taken  up  was  not,  after  all,  the  right  one  in  the  face  of  this 
arrogant  tribe,  but  that  we  should  perhaps  for  the  first  time 
have  to  resort  to  an  appeal  to  arms,  to  demonstrate  whether  it 
was  necessary  to  starve,  when  the  land  produced  such  a  store  of 
food  for  man  and  beast.  I  determined,  under  all  the  circum- 
stances, to  assume  for  my  part  a  higher  tone  towards  these 
proud  sons  of  the  steppe  ;  and  next  morning,  when  the  Sultan 
appeared  again  for  a  conference  beneath  the  tree,  I  sent  Herr 
von  Tiedemann  to  represent  me. 

Herr  von  Tiedemann  was  to  offer  the  Sultan  a  few  presents, 
tokens  of  friendship  from  me  ;  but  only  on  condition  that  the 


132  NEW  LIGHT   ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

Sultan,  on  his  side,  offered  me  proportionate  gifts.  This  was 
done.  I  received  a  few  boat-loads  of  grain,  and  bananas,  and 
Change  of  Several  fowls,  so  that  on  this  day,  for  the  first  time,  we 
policy.  could  at  least  begin  again  to  take  our  regular  meals. 
To-day  also,  to  my  great  satisfaction,  my  boats  with  the  articles 
of  barter  came  in  ;  and,  for  the  time,  we  should  have  obtained 
a  regular  supply  of  provisions,  by  purchase  from  the  Gallas,  if 
they  had  at  once  fulfilled  their  promise  of  opening  a  market  for 
us.  To  induce  them  to  fulfil  the  obligation  they  had  undertaken, 
and,  above  all,  to  secure  ourselves  from  the  danger  that  con- 
tinually threatened  us,  of  perishing  from  hunger,  I  caused  another 
Its  success,  foray  for  grain  to  be  undertaken,  on  the  following  night, 
by  three  boats,  under  Herr  von  Tiedemann.  It  was  completely 
successful,  and  caused  the  Gallas  to  proceed  with  the  opening  of 
the  market  without  further  delay. 

Here  in  Oda-Boru-Ruva,  half  a  year  before,  the  Englishman, 
Mr.  Pigott,  had  stayed  with  his  expedition,  concerning  whose  for- 
tunes I  had  heard  particulars  already  on  the  day  of  my  arrival. 
According  to  the  account  given  by  the  Gallas,  Mr.  Pigott  had 
attempted  to  push  forward  in  the  north  of  the  Tana.  But  when 
he  had  seen  the  settlements  of  the  Galla  tribes  to  the  north  he 
had  become  apprehensive,  and  had  turned  back.  Ac- 
andhis  cordiug  to  Other  accounts,  which  seemed  to  me  more 
expe  1  ion.  gj.gjjj^|j2g^  ]yjj._  pigott  was  reported  to  have  come  upon 

desert  steppes  in  the  north,  and  had  turned  back  for  that  reason. 
Then  he  had  attempted  an  advance  southward  from  the  Tana, 
but  had  found  no  food  there,  and  consequently  had  been  com- 
pelled to  march  back  to  Mombassa.  Mr.  Pigott  was  said  to 
have  founded  two  stations  among  the  Gallas,  and  to  have  left  a 
garrison  behind  in  one  of  them ;  but  this  garrison  had  betaken 
itself  down  the  river  ten  days  ago.  Mr.  Smith  and  his  expedi- 
tion had  arrived  about  a  week  before,  after  the  English  garrison 
had  already  gone.  He  had  lived  there  for  a  few  days  ;  but  when 
Mr.  Smith's  the  uows  Came  to  Oda-Boru-Ruva  of  our  approach, 
expedition.  ^^  Smith  had  one  morning  quite  suddenly  gone,  and 
he,  also,  had  marched  back  through  Ukumba  to  Mombassa. 
The  Gallas  added  that  there  was  no  connection  for  an  expedition 


i       i 


COUNTERACTING  MEASURES.  133 

towards  the  west,  because  no  people  lived  there,  and  nothing 
but  the  broad  steppe  was  before  us.  If  one  marched  further 
towards  the  west,  one  would  get  into  the  mountains,  which  we 
could  already  see  when  the  sun  was  going  down,  rising  here  and 
there  on  the  horizon. 

According  to  the  London  agreement,  the  Tana  was  to  be 
the  boundary  of  the  territory  of  English  interests  ;  therefore  the 
English  had  no  kind  of  right  to  establish  stations  northward  of 
the  Tana.  Mr.  Pigott  had,  notwithstanding,  done  this,  wherein 
I  was  neither  able  nor  desirous  to  alter  anything.  But  in  order 
to  get  the  spirit  of  the  London  agreement  acted  upon  here,  I 
began  on  my  side  systematically  to  work  at  bringing  the  Theiondon 
Gallas  under  German  sovereignty,  and  to  induce  the  ^s'^eement. 
Sultan  and  the  elders  of  the  tribes,  as  an  outward  sign  of  this, 
to  solemnly  hoist  our  flag  in  the  north  of  the  Tana.  These 
matters  occupied  me  very  seriously  during  the  next  days,  and 
led  to  a  very  favourable  result  for  us. 

It  was  on  September  28th,  at  two  in  the  afternoon,  that  I 
met  the  Sultan  Hugo  and  the  great  men  of  the  Gallas,  under 
the  before -mentioned  tree  on  the  further  side  of  the  Tana,  at  a 
great  consultation,  to  bring  the  question  to  a  definite  Great  con- 
conclusion.     I  sent  several  boat-loads  of  soldiers  in  withsuitan 
advance,  then  I  myself  followed,  and  gradually  had  ^~so. 
my  whole  force,  with  the  exception  of  the  camp  sentries,  ferried 
to  the  island.     I  had  our  two  carriers'  chairs  taken  across  for 
Herr  von  Tiedemann  and  myself,  and  on  these  we  at  once  took 
our  places.     Besides  Sultan  Hugo,  three  sultans  of  the  Wapo- 
komo  had  made  their  appearance,  to  take  part  in  the  delibera- 
tions.    From  the  Sultan  Hugo,  with  whom  I  had  discussed  the 
affair  beforehand,  I  had  heard  that  there  was  among  the  Gallas 
a  strong  opposition  to  my  proposals,  and  I  therefore  made  up 
my  mind  for  an  interesting  assembly.     Beside  and  behind  Hugo 
reclined  the  warriors  of  the  Gallas,  with  whom  my  Somalis 
exchanged  looks  of  defiance.     The  hatred  between  the  ^hreaten- 
two  races  was  so  strong,  that  several  times  I  had  the  i^s^oi 
greatest  trouble  to  prevent  a  sudden  outbreak  and  blood- 
shed.    Every  moment  the  Gallas  were  starting  up,  brandishing 


134  XEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

their  spears,  to  rush  upon  the  Somalis,  or  my  Somalis  were 
bringing  their  musket  stocks  to  their  shoulders  to  shoot  down 
the  Gallas.  To  prevent  this,  Sultan  Hugo  recommended  me 
to  send  hack  mj^  soldiers  to  the  opposite  shore  ;  but  in  view 
of  the  many  hundreds  of  Galla  warriors  assembled  there,  I 
could  not  make  up  my  mind  to  this.  While  we  were  negotiat- 
ing, there  was  a  continual  streaming  to  and  fro  of  the  people, 
so  that  the  whole  produced  a  very  lively  effect. 

I  opened  the  proceedings  with  a  short  address,  in  which  I 
asked  the  Gallas  if  they  wished  to  have  peace  or  war  with  me. 
Thereupon  Sultan  Hugo  and  the  elders  of  the  Wapokomo 
expressed  their  opinion  at  great  length  something  to  the  follow- 
ing effect :  "  We  know  that  thou  art  a  great  man,  and  hast 
,    much  power,  and  that  thou  mayst  have   still  more. 

Fair  words  ^  '  •' 

andpeacefui  We  have  also  heard  that  more  Germans  are  following 
thee,  and  will  soon  arrive  here.  Thou  art  as  God, 
compared  with  us,  and  we  wish  for  peace  with  thee.  There 
have  been  Englishmen  here,  too.  But  we  know  that  the 
Englishmen  are  quite  little,  and  thou  art  very  great.  Thou  art 
as  God.  Give  us  peace,  great  Lord ;  we  will  do  everything 
that  thou  desirest."  To  this  I  replied  as  follows,  after  the 
general  sentiment  of  the  peace  party  among  the  Gallas  had 
been  thus  declared :  "  I  have  been  sent  hither  by  the  great 
nation  of  the  Germans  (' Wadutschi').  W^e  dwell  in  the 
middle  of  Europe,  and  are  the  strongest  of  all  the  nations  of 
the  earth.  You  know  the  English  and  you  know  us ;  you  can 
judge  for  yourselves  which  of  us  is  the  greater.  But  we  make 
war  upon  those  who  attack  us  first ;  we  overthrow  them  and 
kill  them  ;  while  we  give  peace  to  all  those  who  wish  to  live 
peaceably  together  with  the  Germans.  We  protect  the  weak ; 
we  cast  down  the  strong,  if  they  rise  up  against  us.  I  am 
Expiana-  "ow  Only  passiug  through  the  country  of  the  Gallas, 
in'ientionY  ^^*^  ^"^  g°i°S  ^0  march  far  to  the  west,  through  the 
andde-      Massais,  to  a  great  German  who  lives  alone  in  the 

maads.  ■in         n    a  />  • 

middle  of  Africa  ;  and  in  this,  if  you  wish  to  be  our 
friends,  you  must  help  me.  Westward  of  this  is  a  great  moun- 
tain, which  is  white  ;  to  that  I  wish  to  go  first,  and  what  I 


SUBmSSION  OF  THE  GALL  AS.  135 

want  of  you  is,  that  you  give  me  guides  thither.  That  is  the 
mountain  Kenia,  in  the  land  of  the  Massais ;  thither  I  want 
guides  from  you.  I  know  that  on  the  way  thither  there  is  no 
food  for  us,  therefore  I  want  food  from  you,  and  hoats  to  carry 
it  up  the  river.  If  you  will  help  me  in  these  two  things,  I  am 
ready  here  to  hoist  our  flag,  which  the  Somalia  know  very  well, 
and  which  will  prevent  them  from  attacking  you.  Here  is  a 
writing  of  the  Somalis,  that  I  will  leave  here  with  you.  It  is 
from  the  Sheriff  Hussein.  In  case  the  Somalis  should  come, 
show  it  to  them,  and  they  will  he  your  friends." 

Long  discussions  now  arose,  after  the  Gallas  had  declared 
themselves  willing  to  grant  my  requests  generally.  Twelve 
hoatmen  were  provided  for  me  at  once,  whose  names  I  entered, 
and  who  only  asked  permission  to  go  to  their  homes  and 
take  leave  of  their  families,  before  removing  into  my  camp. 
Three  guides  were  also  brought  before  me,  who  were  to  show 
me  the  way  over  Hamege,  and  from  thence  to  the  Kenia.  It 
was  five  o'clock  when  these  matters  were  settled,  and  I  laid 
before  them  the  treaty,  which,  in  pursuance  of  the  unanimous 
decision  of  the  popular  assembly.  Sultan  Hugo  signed  next  morn- 
ing in  the  name  of  the  Gallas.     The  treaty  is  worded  thus  : — 

"  The  following  treaty  is  this  day  concluded  between  Dr. 
Carl  Peters  and  the  Galla  Sultan  Hugo  : 

"  Dr.  Peters  acknowledges  as  Sultan's  territory  the  Treaty 
land  on  the  Tana,  from  Massa  to  the  Kenia.  suiu^n  an/ 

"  Sultan  Hugo  places  himself,  with  all  his  territory,  ^^-  ^^t®"^^- 
under  the  protection  of  Dr.  Peters.     Dr.  Carl  Peters  will  endea- 
vour to  obtain  for  the  Galla  sultanate  the  friendship  of  His 
Majesty  the  German  Emperor. 

"Nevertheless  this  treaty  is  not  dependent  upon  the 
granting  of  the  protection  of  the  German  Empire  or  upon  its 
ratification  by  any  European  power. 

"  Sultan  Hugo  cedes  to  Dr.  Carl  Peters  the  right  of  working 
the  country  above  and  below  the  ground  in  every  direction. 

"  This  right  especially  includes  the  exclusive  commercial 
monopoly,  the  right  of  establishing  plantations,  and  the  exclu- 
sive mining  monopoly. 


136  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

"If  gold  is  found,  Sultan  Hugo  is  to  have  a  quarter  of  the 
net  profit  from  the  production  of  it. 

"  Dr.  Carl  Peters  is  to  be  supreme  lord  in  the  country  of  the 
Gallas,  to  command  the  armed  forces,  and  judge  the  people. 

"  This  is  done  for  the  blessing  and  welfare  of  the  Galla  land. 

"After  several  long  conferences,  and  after  its  contents  have 
been  deliberated,  and  unanimously  resolved  upon,  in  a  great 
public  popular  meeting  by  the  Gallas  in  general,  this  treaty  is 
formally  concluded  this  day  by  Sultan  Hugo  and  Dr.  Peters. 

"Dr.  Peters. 

"  Hugo's  mark. 
"Von  Tiedemann. 
Mark  of  Hugo  Valogalgal,  brother 

and  Prime  Minister  of  the  Sultan. 
The  Interpreter's  mark." 


"  Witnesses 


This  treaty  was  accepted  amid  lively  acclamations,  and  was 
signed  by  us  the  next  morning.  Meanwhile  my  people  pro- 
vided a  tall  stem  of  a  tree,  and  dug  a  hole,  to  raise  the  German 
flag  with  all  due  ceremony.  I  considered  it  more  correct  to  have 
the  actual  business  of  hoisting  done  by  the  Gallas  themselves. 
,  So  the  Sultan  and  his  great  men  had  to  accommodate 

Kaismg  of 

the  German  themselves  to  fastening  up  the  flagstaff  and  running 
*^'  up  the  flag.     When  the  sun  disappeared  in  the  west 

behind  the  mysterious  chains  of  mountains,  which,  according  to 
the  opinion  we  held  at  that  time,  bounded  the  Massai  territories, 
the  black,  white,  and  red  flag  waved  for  the  first  time  in  the 
evening  breeze  over  the  Upper  Tana,  saluted  with  three  volleys 
by  the  whole  of  my  people,  while  the  slim  forms  of  the  Galla 
warriors  danced  around  it.  That  this  whole  procedure  made 
a  deep  impression  upon  the  people  is  proved,  among  other 
circumstances,  by  the  fact  that  at  the^end  of  December,  two 
months  after  my  departure,  Herr  Oskar  Borchert  found  the 
flag  still  there,  and  regarded  by  the  Gallas  with  a  kind 
of  superstitious  awe. 

During  the  following  days,  I  had  the  opportunity  of  making 
nearer  acquaintance  with  the  lovely  island  of  Oda-Boru-Ruva 


THE  EXPEDITION  A2I0NG   THE  GALL  AS.  137 

and  with  the  peculiar  manner  of  the  Gallas.  Unfortunately,  on 
September  29th,  Herr  von  Tiedemann  fell  so  sick,  whether  of  an 
affection  of  the  spleen  or  the  liver  we  did  not  know,  that  I  was 
most  seriously  alarmed  for  his  life,  and  made  him  the 
proposition  that  he  should  go  back  to  the  coast  Herr  von 
in  our  great  boat.  Thus  for  the  weeks  that  were  next  ''^'®^^"*°"- 
to  come  I  was  to  depend  entirely  on  myself;  and  the  powerful 
magic  of  solitude  is  thrown  over  the  recollections  of  these 
sunny  days  of  Oda-Boru-Ruva.  Sunny  days  they  certainly 
were.  Between  two  and  three  o'clock  the  thermometer,  in 
the  deepest  shade,  regularly  attained  a  height  of  45°  (centi- 
grade thermometer).  The  heat  was  now  and  again  simply 
almost  intolerable,  but  the  ground  was  dry,  and  there  were 
no  real  cases  of  fever  in  the  expedition.  Of  an  afternoon, 
when   the  sun  was   sinking,  I  was   in   the   habit   of  „  . 

°  Sojourn 

having   my   horse    saddled,    and    making    excursions  among  the 
into  the  wide  and  wonderful  steppe.     I  would  gallop 
for   two   or  three  miles   towards  the    west,   to   a   hill,   from 
which  the  eye  could  range  far  to  the  dark  mountains  behind 
which  our  destiny  would  have  to  be  fulfilled.     When  evening 
drew  on,  and  the  moon  shone  down  upon  the  dreamy  landscape, 
I  was  accustomed  to  sit  in  front  of  my  tent,  and  listen  to  the 
rushing  of  the  Tana,  bringing  down  mysterious  tidings  of  the 
countries  beyond  the  mountains.     A  deep   peace   and   sweet 
repose  lay  spread   over  this  region  in  such   tropical  nights. 
"When  Orion  flames  exactly  over  us,  or  the  Southern  jj^^g^.^^^. 
Cross  stands  in  the  heavens,  and  the  whole  firmament  picai 
glitters   with   the    sparkling   of  the    stars,    the   heart 
trembles  with  awe  at  the  Eternal,  and  the  Godhead  is  vividly 
brought  before  the  soul.     In  face  of  the  wonderful  vicissitudes 
of  this  expedition,  the  heart,  from  a  natural  necessity,  reverted 
more  and  more  to  this  last  source  of  comfort ;  and  herein  was 
the  sublimity  of  these  lonely  hours. 

That  we  might  not  altogether  waste  our  time  in  idleness, 
I  began  already  on  September  29th  the  task  of  founding  a 
German  settlement  on  the  island  of  Oda-Boru-Ruva.  In  the 
course  of  the  next  fortnight  a  neat  little  house  arose  on  the 


138 


XEW  LIGHT   ON  JiAUK  AFRICA. 


opposite  shore,  thatehed  with  straw  aiKl  Iniilt  oC  wood  ;   it  con- 
tained three  rt)oms.     A  strong  fence  ran  roiuid  tlie  little  building 
,„    (in  three  sides,  and  on  the  fourth,  the  river  front,  I  had 

New  settle-  '  . 

ment.  The;,,  laudiuu-place  made  for  the  boats,  i his  settlement, 
Heydt"'  to  which  I  liad  a  shed  for  goods  added,  1  called  "  Yon 
^°'''''  der  Heydt  House."  I  had  caused  it  to  be  erected 
especially  with  reiereiice  to  the  secoud  colunu),  whose  arrival 
I  expected,  and  in  the  hope  of  establishing  a  route  lor  traffic 
from  here  to  the  Baringo,  where  I  pur])osed  founding  a 
second  station.     Mv  idea  was  to  be  able,  irom  hence,  to  direct 


"]''■'" 


Von  dek  Hetdt  House. 


the  ivory  traffic  of  the  Massai  territories  to  Germany,  and  to 
establish  a  rivalry  with  the  English  Mombassa  route. 

The  English  station,  which  still  stood  on  the  opposite  side 
of  the  river,  was  in  those  days  burnt  by  the  Gallas,  and  I  was 
powerless  to  prevent  it.  If  the  hopes  I  entertained  while 
founding  the  Von  der  Heydt  House  have  not  been  realised, 
at    least    the    little    settlement    afforded    me,    during    those 

,  ^.     October  davs  of  1889,  the  full  and  pure  enioyment  of 

Completion  -  '  i  j    j 

of  the        labour  as  such.     When  the  house  was  completed  we 

Tl  Oil  RP 

made  a  little  tablet,  on  which  we  inscribed  in  Roman 
characters  the  name,  "  Von  der  Heydt  Haus,  1,  10,  1889,"  and 
we  fastened  the  tablet  to  a  pole  on  tlie  left  (if  the  house.     Herr 


DIFFICULTIES    WITH  THE   GALLAS.  139 

Borchert  found  both  house  and  tablet  in  perfect  preservation  in 
December. 

But  fate  refused  to  fix  the  pure  impressions  of  peaceful 
industry  upon  our  residence  at  Oda-Boru-Ruva.  My  relations 
with  the  Gallas,  which  were  at  first  hearty  enough,  unsatisfac- 
gradually  began  to  cloud  over.  The  burning  of  the  *?J^  "^^^j^ 
English  station  (an  act  committed  without  my  order)  theGaiias. 
annoyed  me,  and  I  was  put  still  more  out  of  humour  by  the 
fact  that  when,  on  October  5th,  I  sent  to  the  second  English 
station  for  the  articles  of  barter  there,  which  I  wanted  to 
have  deposited  in  security  at  my  own  place,  these  articles  had 
vanished,  and  were  already  in  the  hands  of  the  Gallas.  Accord- 
ingly, on  October  6th,  I  despatched  a  categorical  request  to 
Sultan  Hugo  for  the  restoration  of  these  English  articles  of 
barter.  He  came  to  me  personally,  in  a  very  friendly  manner, 
and  remained  all  the  afternoon  in  my  camp,  explaining  to  me 
that  he  had  not  had  the  custody  of  the  English  wares,  for  that 
the  Englishmen  had  confided  the  care  of  them  to  another 
Galla  ;  and  that  altogether  he  did  not  believe  there  „     , 

'  °  Hugo's 

had  been  English  goods  left  at  the  station  at  all.    I  doubtful  ex- 

.   .  ,  1        p     1  planation. 

was  not  m  a  position  to  test  the  truth  oi  these  asser- 
tions, but  declared  myself  satisfied  with  Hugo's  explanation. 
Meanwhile,  however,  another  affair  had  been  maturing,  which 
led  to  strife  and  combat.  The  Suaheli  slaves  Mandutto  and 
Yembamba  had  put  themselves  into  communication  with 
Hamiri,  in  the  first  instance,  and  through  him  with  me,  with 
the  enquiry  if,  in  case  of  their  coming  into  my  camp  with  their 
fellow-tribesmen,  I  should  be  willing  to  take  them  under  my 
protection  against  the  Gallas.  After  some  negotiation,  I  de- 
clared that  I  would  protect  all  those  Galla  slaves  who  could 
prove  that  they  had  neither  been  bought  by  the  Gallas,  nor  had 
become  prize  of  war,  but  had  simply  been  stolen.  Thereupon 
thirteen  men  had  had  themselves  inscribed  on  my  lists,  being 
able  to  furnish  the  required  proof.  I  informed  the  ^^^  g^j 
Sultan  Hugo  of  this  on  October  6th,  and  he  replied  tan's  re- 

~  ,  T    T  T    1  1      monstrance. 

that  I  was  lord  of  the  Gallas,  and  could  do  as  I  thought 

right,  but  that  his  tribe  would  look  upon  such  a  proceeding 


140  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

on  my  part  as  a  violent  measure.  Sultan  Hugo  had  a  very 
beautiful  wife,  of  gipsy-like  appearance,  but  no  children.  He 
hoped  that  I  could  give  him  a  charm  to  remove  this  trouble, 
and  this  formed  one  of  the  subjects  of  our  conversation.  I 
promised  to  give  him  a  final  answer  the  next  morning. 

A  fine  moonlight  night  was  ushered  in  by  the  evening  of 
October  6th.  1  had  been  still  sitting  in  front  of  my  tent  towards 
nine  o'clock,  and  then  I  went  to  bed.  Towards  ten  o'clock  I 
Mas  aroused  by  the  sentry  before  my  tent,  who  reported  that 
Yembamba  and  Mandutto  had  appeared  on  the  other  side  of 
Alarming  the  Tana,  with  the  news  that  the  Gallas  were  holding 
reports.  ^  great  stormy  council,  and  had  just  determined  to  put 
the  Suaheli  slaves  in  chains,  and  to  attack  my  camp  that 
same  night.  I  have  from  the  beginning,  throughout  the  whole 
expedition,  where  I  considered  a  conflict  as  unavoidable, 
adopted  the  tactics  of  being  the  attacking  party,  so  as  to 
secure  to  myself  the  advantages  of  the  initiative.  I  was  much 
too  weak  in  numbers  to  afford  to  practise  concession  in  dealing 
with  the  warlike  propensities  of  the  proud  tribes  of  Northern 
East  Africa  ;  and  I  am  convinced  that  we  should  have  all  been 
lost  men,  if  I  had  attempted  such  a  yielding  policy  as  would 
have  strengthened  the  lust  for  combat  in  our  opponents  and 
weakened  the  courage  of  my  own  men.  If  the  Gallas  really 
attacked  my  camp  on  October  6th,  in  the  night  time,  it  was 
Difficult  very  probable  that  they  would  be  beaten  back.  On 
position.  ^]^g  Q^j^gj.  j^g^jj^^  ^Yie  task  of  resisting  them  would  pro- 
bably cost  a  great  many  more  cartridges  than  an  attack  on  my 
part ;  and,  what  was  more  important  than  all,  the  morale  of 
my  troops  must  suffer  considerably,  if  they  found  that  my 
position  was  not  even  strong  enough  to  deter  black  men  from 
attacking  our  camp.  Therefore  I  made  up  my  mind  at  once 
to  bring  the  whole  thing  to  an  issue  that  very  night. 

I  got  up,  ordered  a  short  trumpet  signal  to  be  given,  took 
ten  soldiers  and  twenty-five  porters  with  me,  and  without 
acquainting  the  sick  Herr  von  Tiedemann,  whom  I  supposed  to 
be  asleep,  with  my  intention,  I  crossed  to  the  opposite  side  of 
the  Tana.     For  half  an  hour  we  marched  towards  the  south- 


COMBAT   WITH  THE  GALL  AS.  141 

south-east  upon  the  Sultan's  kraal,  in  which  the  council  was 
being  held.     When  I  look  back  upon  the  events  of  this  night, 
I  can  see  that  the  attitude  I  took  up  showed  a  great  Decisive 
want  of  experience  in  these  matters.     Later,  I  should  measures 
not  have  thought  of  doing  what  I  did  on  October  6th,  theGaUa 
which  was  to  advance  with  eight  men  of  my  main  column,  and 
with  these  first  eight,  among  whom  was  not  one  of  my  Somali 
soldiers,  to  step,  without  ceremony,  into  an  assembly  of  Gallas, 
who  were  excited  by  the  liberal  use  of  beer.     But  I  did  not  yet 
believe  in  an  impending  battle  ;  I  thought  that  I  should  succeed 
in  overawing,  the  people  by  my  appearance,  and  in  adjusting 
the   points  in  dispute  between  us  by  a   consultation.      So  I 
entered  the  Galla  kraal,  from  which  hoarse  cries  had  reached 
me  from  afar,  and  called  twice  aloud  to  the  assembly,  "  Amani, 
amani !  "("  Peace,  peace  !  ")     But  I  had  considerably  over-esti- 
mated the  effect  of  my  appearance.     The  answer  to  my 
coming  was,  that  a  Galla  warrior  hurled   his  lance  of  Gaiia 
at  my  head,  grazing  my  ear,  while  a  second  made  a  ^°'"^'"^°- 
thrust  at  my  chest,  which  attack  I  only  escaped  by  Hamiri's 
dragging  me  on  one  side,  whereby  I  fell  on  the  ground,  and 
struck  my  head  against  the  barrel  of  his  gun.     I  pulled  out 
my  revolver  to  shoot  the  Galla  down,  but  unhappily  my  re- 
volver cartridges  missed  fire,  and  I  had  to  seize  my  rifle  to 
defend  myself.     For  a  moment  the  position  was  critical ;  but 
after  we  had  fired  on  the  whole  about  six  volleys,  by  which  the 
Sultan  and  seven  of  his  chief  men  were  laid  low,  the  matter 
was  decided  within  three  minutes,  and  the  whole  tribe  sudden 
was  scattered  abroad.     The  Gallas  were  so  completely  fiiur°e™'f  the 
frightened,  that  some  of  them  fled  as  far  as  the  coast,  "Sana's' 
and  there  spread  the  report  that  I  had  fallen  ;  by  which  means 
Europe  for  several  months  stood  under  the  impression  that  our 
expedition  had  been  wrecked  by  the  Tana,  and  that  I  myself 
was  dead. 

When  the  fight  was  over  I  felt,  indeed,  the  proud  intoxica- 
tion of  the  victor,  but  also  a  great  disturbance  of  the  nerves  at 
the  thought  of  the  first  shedding  of  human  blood.  But  there 
was  no  time  for  such  reflections  ;  circumstances  urged  us  to 


142  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

action.  I  at  once  perceived  that  it  would  be  of  the  greatest 
importance  for  the  safety  of  my  expedition,  if  I  could  secure 
Necessity  myself  by  a  pledge  against  further  enterprises  of  the 
ofottain-    (][a,llas.     Accordingly  I  had  all  the  women  who  were 

ing  nos-  ^  •' 

tages.  hidden  in  the  kraal,  twenty-three  in  number,  brought 
out  of  their  houses,  to  carry  them  with  me  into  my  camp.  I 
also  found  some  men,  Avhom  I  likewise  carried  off  as  prisoners 
of  war.  I  could  not  help  perceiving,  also,  that  it  would  probably 
be  no  longer  possible  to  obtain  grain  from  the  Gallas  by  pur- 
chase, and  so,  the  same  night,  I  took  possession  of  all  the 
stores  I  could  find,  and  on  the  following  days  I  increased  these 
The  Gallas  by  further  boat-loads  that  I  caused  to  be  brought  across 
ftor^s  *°  ™®-  ^'^  *^®  whole  I  succeeded  in  heaping  up  about 
seized.  eighty  boat-loads  of  corn  in  my  camp.  Proud  as 
Thusnelda,*  the  wife  of  Sultan  Hugo  marched  back,  with 
her  companions  in  misfortune,  into  my  camp,  when  towards 
one  o'clock  we  left  the  island.  From  the  Sultan's  kraal  I 
had  marched  at  once  into  the  slaves'  village,  and  had  here 
set  free  about  thirty  slaves,  men,  women,  and  children,  and 
immediately  taken  them  into  my  camp  with  all  their  property. 
When  I  awoke  on  the  morning  of  October  7th  I  stood  face 
to  face  with  quite  a  new  condition  of  affairs.  Now  I  was  the 
true  lord  in  these  regions ;  "  there  was  nothing  that  did  not 
belong  to  me."  But  my  situation,  nevertheless,  looked  at  m 
its  true  light,  was  a  worse  one  than  that  of  the  day 
to^fte"  ^*  before  ;  for  how,  without  the  Gallas,  was  I  to  find 
Tana?        ^^^  ^^^^  ^p  ^j^^  Tana  river  ?     How  could  I  hope  to 

regain  communications  with  my  second  column  if  I  lived  in 
enmity  with  this  race,  who  could  always  interrupt  the  com- 
munications between  Massai  and  Oda-Boru-Ruva  ?  How,  in 
conclusion,  could  my  plans,  which  I  attached  to  the  founding^ 
of  the  Van  der  Heydt  House,  be  fulfilled,  if  the  Gallas  quitted 
the  neighbourhood  and  it  became  converted  into  a  desert,  like 
that  which  bordered  Oda-Boru-Ruva  to  the   east  and  west? 

*  ThiTsnelda,  in  the  history  of  the  ancient  Germans,  was  a  heroic  German 
woman,  the  wife  of  Hermann,  or  Arminius,  the  conqueror  of  the  Roman 
general  Varus,  at  the  battle  of  the  Teutoburg  Eorest,  a.d.  9.— Tk. 


NEGOTIATIONS  REOPENED    WITH  IHE  GALL  AS.  143 

Added  to  this,  I  had  just  received  the  news,  on  October  7th, 
that  the  Somalis  had  encamped  by  the  river,  between  me  and 
the  coast,  and,  in  a  body  five  thousand  strong,  were  The  hostile 
cutting  oif  the  communication  down  stream .  A  few  days  somaiis. 
before  I  had  sent  off  a  report  to  Germany  and  to  Lieutenant- 
Captain  Rust.  On  October  7th  my  messenger  Abocca  returned 
with  the  announcement  that  he  had  found  it  impossible  to 
make  his  way  through  the  Somalis. 

These  considerations  determined  me  to  make  the  attempt 
to  resume  peaceful   relations   with   the   Gallas  ;    accordingly, 
already  on   October  7th  I  dismissed  the  men  I  had  Fortifying 
captured,  with  a  message  that  the  Gallas  might  return,  *®  ''^'"P' 
for  I  was  willing  to  deliver  up  their  wives  to  them.     At  the 
same  time,  I  began  that  day  to  "fortify  my  camp,  by  having 
strong  palisades  and  an  almost  impenetrable  thorn  fence  raised 
around  it.     Three  gates  gave  access  to  the  camp — one  above 
and  one  below,  close  by  the  river,  and  the  third  at  the  back. 
A  double  post  of  sentries  was  established  at  these  gates  night 
and  day,  and  the  sentries  were  visited  every  night  by  me  or  by 
my  worthy  Hussein  Fara.     I  may  mention  that  it  was  my  prin- 
ciple, in  the  further  prosecution  of  the  expedition,  to  consider 
the  deep  responsibility  of  guarding  against  chance  surprises  by 
hostile  tribes.     I  knew  that  I  owed  it  to  my  people  to  take  care 
that  a  surprise,  either  by  night,  or  on  the  march,  or  under  any 
circumstances,  should  be  a  thing  that  could  not  happen  to  the 
German  Emin  Pasha  Expedition,  and  that,  whatever  our  fate 
might  be,  it  was  for  me  to  secure  to  the  expedition  the  Boldness 
possibility  of  fighting  against  destruction  to  the  last,  autr"*''"^ 
Therefore  I  determined  to  be  bold  in  my  general  deci-  necessary, 
sions,  but  in  details  to  cultivate  the  greatest  and  most  painful 
caution.    Thus  there  was  now  introduced  in  the  German  Emin 
Pasha  Expedition  a  guard  system  that  has  not,  I  think,  been 
surpassed,  up  to  the  present  time,   in  the  history  of  African 
explorations.      In  me  Massai  lands,  afterwards,  eight  ^^^^^^^^^ 
posts  were  established,  almost  regularly  every  night,  ^^^^''**<'^- 
and  the  sentries  were  visited  every  hour.     Before  the 
.  posts  I  caused  great  fires  to  be  lighted,  that  we  might  overlook 


144  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

the  ground  about  us,  while  the  camp  itself  was  kept  dark.  I 
afterwards  abandoned  altogether  the  s}'Stem  of  fencing  in  my 
camp,  because  it  took  from  my  people  the  proud  feeling  of 
superiority  and  security  which  was  the  only  basis  of  victory  for 
my  little  column.  Our  safety  depended  entirely  on  our  sentry 
service. 

The  negotiations  with  the  Gallas  went  on  for  some  days. 
On  the  evening  of  October  8th  Gall-Galla  made  his  appearance 
Gaii-Gaiia'sii  ^^7  camp.  His  tribe  had  been  restored,  he  said,  and 
cunning,  jjg  offered  himself  to  me  as  a  servant.  The  sly  fellow 
only  wanted  to  have  a  pretext  for  finding  out  how  I  was  in- 
clined towards  the  men  of  his  tribe.  I  learnt  from  Gall-Galla 
that  the  Gallas  had  chosen  a  new  sultan,  named  Gollo,  and 
that  they  were  willing  to  enter  into  negotiations  with  me  con- 
cerning the  arrangement  of  a  peace.  On  October  15th  the 
assembly  of  the  people  was  to  be  held,  in  which  I  would  treat 
Sultan  with  the  Gallas.  They  duly  made  their  appearance, 
GoHo.  ]3y(-  tjieii-  young  sultan  Gollo  had  considered  it  prefer- 
able to  solace  himself  with  beer,  and  thus  missed  the  sitting, 
which  took  place  on  October  16th.  On  that  day  I  crossed 
the  river,  and  found  Gollo  to  be  a  young  gentleman  of  very 
cavalier-like  appearance ;  he  had  almost  the  outward  style  of 
an  officer  in  the  Guards,  and  did  not  assume  any  great  humility 
of  behaviour  towards  me.  He  demanded  that  before  he  entered 
into  negotiations  with  me  for  peace,  I  should  pay  blood-money 
for  the  fallen  Gallas,  according  to  the  custom  of  their  tribe. 
To  deal  with  him,  I  affected  an  access  of  fury,  seizing  my 
three-legged  stool,  and  throwing  it  at  the  Sultan's  head.  I 
jumped  up,  and  declared  that  if  the  Gallas  came  with  such 
demands,  I,  for  my  part,  should  prefer  war ;  and  I  now  ordered 
them  to  choose  another  sultan, — that  I  did  not  wish  to  nego- 
Deposition  tiate  any  more  with  Gollo.  This  produced  its  effect. 
Sultan"'  That  very  same  day  Gollo  was  deposed,  and  a  man 
sadeh.  named  Sadeh,  who  was  friendly  to  the  Germans,  and  had 
been  on  a  good  footing  with  me  from  the  beginning,  was  chosen 
sultan.  Gollo  also  betook  himself  that  very  same  day  to  "  sum- 
mer freshness ; "  that  is  to  say,  he  went  elephant-hunting,  and 


A    TREATY  OF  PEACE.  145 

we  soon  heard  that  he  had  succeeded  in  killing  an  elephant.  I 
entrusted  to  Sadeh  the  sultanate  in  my  name,  and  placed  Gall- 
Galla  at  his  side  as  my  agent  and  as  chief  of  the  station  "  Von 
der  Heydt  House."  On  October  16th  the  negotiations  with 
Sadeh  were  brought  to  an  end  in  the  following  treaty  : — 

"Von  der  Heydt  House,  October  l&th. 

"  The  two  undersigned  herewith  conclude  peace  and 
friendship : 

"  Dr.  Carl  Peters,  Chief  of  the  German  Emin 

Pasha  Expedition ;  and 
"  Sadeh,  Sultan  of  the  Gallas. 
"  Dr.  Peters  respects  the  lives  and  property  of  the  ^^^. 
Gallas.  i®*^^? 

Dr.  Peters 

"  The  Gallas  unreservedly  acknowledge  Dr.  Carl  and  suitan 
Peters  as  their  lord. 

"  They  promise  to  respect  the  station  '  Von  der  Heydt 
House,'  and  to  co-operate  in  its  extension. 

"They  undertake  to  support,  with  all  their  strength,  the 
expedition  of  Dr.  Peters  and  his  gentlemen. 

"  The  whole  of  the  land  on  the  '  Von  der  Heydt  Islands ' 
belongs  to  Dr.  Peters,  and  the  Gallas  will  sell  ivory  only  to 
him  and  his  representatives. 

.„.       -,.    ("Dr.  Carl  Peters. 
{btgned)   |<<g^^^^^  Sadeh's  mark. 

f"  Von  Tiedemann. 
"Sec.    Lt.    k.l.s.    of  the   Dragoon   Regiment 

Von  Wedell  (Pomerania,  No.  11). 
"  Mark  of  the  Galla  Galgalla. 
"  „  Galla  Galgalla  Mse. 

"  ,,  Somali  Hussein  Faea. 

"  „  Porter  Headman  Musa. 

"  ,,  Bana  jMaku,  second  servant  of 

Dr.  Peters. 

"  „  MSUAHELI  SaDIKL 

"  Certijied  as  correct, 

"  Von  Tiedemakn." 
10 


Witnesses 


146  XEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

The  negotiations  were  this  day  conducted  in  the  Von  der 
Heydt  House,  and  were  accompanied  by  all  the  ceremonial  of 
The  treaty  the  Galla  State.  They  were  confirmed  by  the  present 
ratified.  qJ  ^  gheep  wMch  Sadeh  had  brought  with  him.  This 
sheep  afterwards  had  a  somewhat  curious  destination,  half  of  it 
being  made  into  invalid  soup  for  one  of  the  camels,  a  medicine 
which  had  been  hit  upon  by  those  wise  gentlemen,  my  Somalis. 
"  Give  him  some  soup,  sir,"  said  Hussein. 

During  those  days  I  wrote  down  a  series  of  observations 
and  notes  concerning  the  Gallas,  which  I  intended  to  send  to 
Germany.  I  left  this  budget  behind  me  at  Oda-Boru-Ruva ; 
but  unfortunately  it  has  not  been  delivered  up  to  Herr  Oskar 
Borchert.  Probably  the  Gallas  were  afraid,  and  that  with 
Missing  reason,  that  in  my  reports  I  had  given  information  of 
reports,  j^y  fight  with  them  ;  and  thus  they  preferred  to  sup- 
press the  whole  packet.  Thus  it  happened  that  in  Germany 
they  were  for  months  without  any  news  of  me,  as  later  reports, 
which  I  sent  off  for  Germany  from  Hargazo  and  Murdoi,  also 
did  not  get  further  than  Oda-Boru-Ruva. 

I  likewise  resumed  my  excursions  in  the  neighbourhood, 
during  which  I  saw  a  mountain  ridge  gleaming  to  the  north  of 
Oda-Boru-Ruva  ;  probably  it  represented  the  watershed  between 
Discover  J^^a  and  Tana.  I  have  called  these  mountains  Galla 
of  mountain  Mountains.  But  I  especially  devoted  much  pains  to 
procuring  information  concerning  the  upper  course  of 
the  Tana,  as  well  from  geographical  interest  as  with  reference 
to  the  further  march  of  my  expedition.  The  moment  when  we 
should  resume  our  march  was  necessarily  approaching.  Week 
after  week  went  by,  and  in  vain  did  I  look  longingly  down  the 
river,  waiting  for  my  second  column  under  Lieutenant-Captain 

Waiting     -^"^*'  °^'  ^*  ^^^^^  ^^^  ^  ^^S°  °^*  lif^  fro'^  that  direction, 
for  Bust's  The  full  moon  came  and  waned,  and  no  news  reached 

column  j^~. 

me.  The  Somalis  advanced  to  Oda  Galla,  about  six 
miles  off.  Where  was  Lieutenant-Captain  Rust,  and  what  had 
become  of  my  second  column?  Already  on  October  8th  I 
had  made  the  sacrifice  of  sending  Hamiri  with  Muhamed,  a 
Somali,   down   the  river  to   re-establish  the   communications 


THE  SECOND   COLUMN  IS  3IISSING.  147 

with  Rust.     Two  weeks  went  bjs  and  of  them,  too,  there  was 
no  intelligence  ! 

I  was  now  obliged  to  look  a  very  serious  decision  in  the 
face.  I  did  not  possess  any  articles  of  barter  for  the  Massai 
lands,  with  the  exception  of  a  load  of  iron  wire  and  half  a  load 
of  beads.      Should  I,  setting  at   nought  all  African 

PGrulBxitiGB 

traditions,  risk  the  march  among  the  dangerous  tribes  and 
of  the  west,  or  should  I,  under  all  the  circumstances,  ^*°^*"- 
wait  at  Oda-Boru-Ruva,  at  least  until  I  heard  news  as  to  the 
fate  of  my  second  column  .P  But  this  waiting  consumed  the 
collected  supplies  to  no  purpose,  and  depressed  the  spirits  of  my 
troop.  Beyond  this,  every  month  of  delay  might  jeopardise  the 
fate  of  the  undertaking  in  the  Equatorial  Province  itself.  I 
could  not  expect  an  answer  to  this  question  from  without.  The 
stars  to  which  I  gazed  up  enquiringly  remained  voiceless,  and 
no  token  was  vouchsafed  to  me  by  Providence  ;  unless,  indeed,  I 
chose  to  interpret  as  such  a  jesting  oracle  I  one  evening  setup 
on  my  own  account.  My  expedition  was  still  in  possession  of 
a  herophon,  into  which  I  placed  plates  for  playing  different 
pieces  of  music.  One  evening  I  determined  to  seek  for  an  omen 
in  reference  to  the  further  fortunes  of  the  expedition  ah  appeal 
by  means  of  this  instrument.  In  the  darkness  I  put  in  *°  *^*^' 
the  first  plate  that  came  to  hand,  with  the  idea  of  taking  the 
character  of  the  piece  that  turned  up,  as  a  sign  from  Heaven. 
I  could  not  help  smiling  when,  all  at  once,  the  well-known 
march  from  Carmen  rang  out.  I  shall,  however,  be  believed 
when  I  say  that  my  decision  was  not  actively  influenced  by  this 
circumstance.     But  I  certainly  was  now  to  march  away. 

The  considerations  that  led  me  to  this  step,  I  have  noted  in 
the  instructions  which  I  left  behind  me  at  Oda-Boru-Ruva  for 
Lieutenant-Captain  Rust.  This  memorandum  of  instructions  was 
as  follows  : — 

"  Oda-Boeu-Ruva.     From  the  Von  dee  Heydt  House, 
"  October  20th,  1889. 

"To  Lieutenant-Captain  Rust. 

"  For  four  weeks  I  have  waited  here  in  vain  for  you,  or 
for  any  sign  of  life  from  you.     This  long  delay  of  any  kind  of 


148  XEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

intelligence,  in  spite  of  my  repeated  attempts,  I  can  account 
for  to  myself  in  four  ways  : 

"  1.  My  letters  may  have  been  lost. 

"  2.  Some  deplorable  physical  accident  may  have  happened 
to  you  personally. 

"  3.  Your  column  may  have  been  temporarily  wrecked,  by 
instruc-      *^^  running  away  of  your  boatmen, 
tionsfor  "4.  You  may  have  been  prevented  from  carrying 

Lieutenant-  .      .  j         i     t      i  i  ii 

Captain       out    the    commission    entrusted    to    you    by    those 
"'*■  machinations     from    behind    from    which   we    have 

already  suffered  so  much. 

"  However  this  may  be,  in  the  absence  of  all  intelligence, 
although  as  lately  as  the  8th  instant  I  sent  off  Hamiri  to  you, 
my  honour  and  my  duty  now  compel  me,  with  the  small  forces 
I  have  at  my  disposal,  to  undertake  to  push  forward  at  once  to 
Emin  Pasha.  If  I  did  otherwise,  I  should  expose  the  expedition 
to  the  danger  of  total  wreck,  being  utterly  unable  to  ascertain 
what  has  taken  place  in  my  rear.  You  will  yourself  be  able  to 
judge  with  what  grave  consideration  I  expose  myself  to  this 
new  salto  mortale,  thus  marching  away,  without  any  articles  of 
barter,  for  Massailand  and  the  territories  situated  behind  it. 
Nevertheless  I  have  made  up  my  mind  to  grasp  at  the  last 
chance  of  success,  which  now  lies  entirely  in  prompt  action, 
in  view  of  the  tolerably  certain  prospect  of  failure  if  I  remain 
here  longer  ;  and  I  start  from  here  to-morrow,  with  about 
ninety  loads. 

"  My  plan  is,  supposing  I  find  a  guide  at  Ukamba,  to  march 
past  the  Kenia  direct  to  Kawirondo,  by  the  Victoria  Nyanza  to 
Proposed  Massala.  If  I  do  not  find  a  guide,  I  must  go  to  the 
route  of     Kitui  of  Couut  Telcki,  to  get  from  thence  to  the  Baringo, 

Dr.  Peters.  '        o  o   ' 

and  so  onward  to  Massala.  As  I  take  guides  from  here, 
you  will  learn  whither  I  have  marched  ;  which  you  can,  more- 
over, at  all  times  ascertain  on  any  march  you  may  undertake. 
From  Massala  I  will  travel  along  the  northern  shore  of  the 
Nyanza,  to  where  the  Nile  flows  out  of  the  lake,  and  there  set 
myself  right  as  to  whether  the  route  is  to  be  taken  through 
Uganda,  or  if  Uganda  is  to  be  skirted  to  the  east.     My  next 


RESOLVE  ON  A   NEW  ADVANCE.  149 

chief  point  would  be  Mruli,  in  Unjoro,  from  which  it  requires 
only  a  week  to  get  to  Emin  Pasha.  I  reckon  to  Massala,  not 
taking  interruptions  into  account,  five  weeks,  and  from  thence 
to  Mruli  two  to  three  weeks.  From  the  Kenia  I  shall  perhaps 
go  by  the  so-called  Thomson  route,  which,  according  to  his 
book,  leads  to  Massala  over  Njemps  in  four  to  five  weeks.  I 
hope,  however,  to  find  Teleki's  guides  at  Kitui. 

"  I  now  leave  behind  me  the  following  instructions  for  you : — 
"  Make  use  of  the  relations  I  have  established  here  with 
the  Gallas.  The  first  sultan  whom  I  met  here,  Hugo,  I  con- 
sidered, in  consequence  of  his  treachery,  which  threatened  our 
camp,  as  an  enemy,  or  at  any  rate  as  a  lukewarm  friend,  and  he 
fell,  with  seven  Gallas,  in  a  nocturnal  fight  against  us.  His 
first  successor,  Gollo,  who  behaved  with  considerable  pouoyto 
insolence  towards  us,  and  was  called  to  order  by  me  towards'** 
with  some  asperity  at  a  public  assembly  of  the  people,  ti^e  Gaiias. 
and  threatened  with  war,  was  deposed  by  his  subjects.  He 
must  be  kept  in  view  as  the  so-called  leader  of  a  possible 
war  party.  The  present  sultan,  Sadeh,  was  appointed  with 
my  sanction.  He  has  made  a  treaty  with  me,  in  which  he 
acknowledges  me  as  lord  of  the  Gallas,  cedes  territory  to  me, 
etc.  ;  in  return  for  which  I  secure  to  him  life  and  property,  so 
far  as  I  come  into  question.  He  promises  in  the  treaty  espe- 
cially to  support  our  expedition.  He  has  promised  me  by  word 
of  mouth,  in  the  presence  of  witnesses,  to  provide  porters  for 
you  to  the  Kenia.  If  he  does  not  fulfil  this,  it  is  said  that 
donkeys  are  to  be  had,  three  days'  journey  from  here.  The 
Wagalla  are  to  help  you  to  organise  an  expedition  with 
donkeys  to  the  Nyanza. 

"  This  I  commission  you  to  do,  if  you  are  ready  by  December 
15th,  and  can  follow  me.  But  if  I  should  march  over  Kitui  and 
the  Baringo,  I  further  commission  you  to  establish  jj^^^^j.^^ 
stations  in  each  of  these  places,  and  eventually  to  to  be  taken 
complete  those  I  have  founded.  As  guards,  depend- 
able people  belonging  to  the  place  itself  are  always  in  the 
first  place  to  be  kept  in  view.  At  Massala  you  would  hear 
further  from  me. 


150  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DA  UK  AFRICA. 

"  Jf  you  consider  the  organising  of  a  donkey  expedition  by 
December  15th  of  this  year  as  impracticable,  I  request  you  to 
disband  your  column  as  quickly  as  possible,  to  provide  the 
Discretion  Station  here  with  articles  of  barter,  and  to  leave 
the  ueut-  Hamiri  behind  with  a  few  Askaris.  The  rest  of  your 
Captain,  column  I  request  you  to  dispose  of  in  Lamu  or  Zan- 
zibar to  the  best  possible  advantage,  for  the  benefit  of  the 
German  Emin  Pasha  committee.  I  should  relieve  you  of  your 
responsibilities  with  regard  to  my  expedition,  without,  however, 
shutting  you  out  from  our  undertaking.  Until  the  result  is 
decided,  I  entrust  you  with  the  representation  of  our  interests 
first  at  Lamu,  then  in  Zanzibar,  until  you  hear  further  con- 
cerning the  fortunes  of  my  column.  Kindly  suggest  to  the 
committee,  if  necessary,  to  summon  you  to  Germany  to  make 
your  report.  In  such  case,  I  request  you  to  order  home  Herr 
Borchert  to  Germany,  regard  being  had  to  my  obligations  made 
under  contract,  and  the  commercial  accounts  being  settled  ;  for 
The  report  I  have  heard  that  his  health  has  suffered.  I  request 
to  Europe,  y^^  ^q  ^^^^  ^  ^^^^  ^f  ^^^^^  instructions,  as  soon  as 

possible,  by  the  quickest  way  to  Europe,  and  likewise  beg  you 
to  send  the  accompanying  packet  down  river  as  soon  as 
you  can. 

"With  the  best  wishes  foi-  your  prosperity,  and  for  the 
completion  of  your  commission, 

"  I  remain,  with  friendly  sentiments, 

"  Yours  faithfully,  and  with  esteem, 

"  Carl  Petees. 

"P.S. — Let  an  attempt  be  made,  moreover,  to  purchase 
ivory  ;  and  please  take  under  your  protection  the  station  garden 
and  the  plantations  that  are  to  be  laid  out.      Signed  (C.  P.)" 

The.  decisive  cast  had  now  been  made.  On  October  18th 
I  had  the  articles  of  barter  packed  and  marked  anew ;  and  on 
the  19th  my  whole  column  was  employed  in  pounding  maize, 
for  I  had  ordered  that  each  man  should  take  with  him  a  supply 
of  meal  for  twenty-five  days.  The  steppe  which  lay  before  us 
had,  until  now,  completely  resisted  every  attempt  to  penetrate 


FAREWELL    TO   ODA-BORU-nrVA. 


151 


through  it.     Two  English   expeditious   before   miue   had  been 
wrecked.     In  the  maize  flour  I  hoped  to  hud  the  magic  key 
that  should  open  to  me  the  portals  of  the  desert.     On  the  I8th 
there  appeared,  provided  for  me  by  the  Gallas,  eight  The  deci- 
guides,  whom,  for  the  sake  of  security,  I  immediately  cj-o^s'the 
caused  to  be  chained.     On  the  afternoon  of  October  ^^^vv^- 
20th  I   once   more  visited  the  beautiful  island  of    Oda-Boru- 
Ruva,  which  was  still  deserted  by  the  Gallas,  and  sat  for  the 
last  time,  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  in  my  Yon  der  Heydt  House, 
the  erection  of  which  had  afforded  me  so  much  pleasure,     ^ly 
frame  of  mind  was  grave,  yet  mingled  with  joyful  emotion. 
The  sinking   sun   that   day   again   showed  me   the   mysterious 
ridges  of  mountains  in  the  west,  which  hid  from  me  the  world 
of  the  Massais.    My  resolution  was  taken  ;  all  preparations  were 
made.     "We  will  try  if  we  can  succeed  where  the  two  „ 

....  .  Hopes  and 

English  expeditious  failed.     Let  us  penetrate  into  the  auticipa- 
girdle  of  wilderness  that  guards  the  lands  of  the  West, 
and  let  us  see  if  the  magic  key  we  hold  is  able  to  unlock  for  us 
the  gates  of  the  territory  of  the  Nile. 


DEPARTURE  FROM  ODA-BORU-RUVA.  153 

German  Emin  Pasha  Expedition  was  for  the  future  to  bear. 
It  was  plain  that  if  I  was  not  in  a  position  to  go  forward 
in  the  Massai  land,  paying  the  usual  tribute,  I  must  Exceptional 
expect  to  experience  warlike  opposition  in  that  ter- ^^^^^/^^"^ 
ritory.  I  did  not  go  away  from  Oda-Boru-Ruva  ^^peiiition- 
with  the  intention  of  leading  the  expedition  onward,  in  this 
sense.  As  a  last  resource,  I  thought  at  that  time  I  could 
have  still  made  use  of  the  powder  which  I  carried  with  me 
for  Emin  Pasha,  as  an  article  of  barter  in  these  lands.  I 
also  cherished  the  hope  of  meeting  with  Arab  dealers  at  the 
Baringo  or  the  Victoria  Nyanza,  from  whom  I  could  perhaps 
purchase  articles  of  barter,  paying  by  a  cheque  on  Zanzibar. 
Nevertheless,  when  on  the  morning  of  October  21st  I  quitted 
the  Oda-Boru-Ruva  that  had  become  so  dear  to  me,  it  was 
with  a  feeling  that  our  expedition  was  now  gliding 

"  ^  b  &  Xjig  future 

away  from  the  tracks  of  the  calculable  into  the  region  incaicui- 
of  the  adventurous.      The  one  thing  that  comforted  * 
me,   under  this  impression,  was  the  certain  conviction,   that 
the  only  way  to  carry  out  the  task  proposed  was  the  one  upon 
which  I  was  that  morning  entering. 

The  night  before,  I  had  sent  an  order  to  the  Gallas  to 
provide  four  great  boats  for  me,  to  convey  corn  up  the  river. 
As  these  boats  had  not  yet  appeared  at  six  o'clock  next  Delays  of 
morning,  I  was  compelled  to  send  my  column  forward  ^^^  Dallas, 
towards  Galamba,  and  to  wait  with  a  few  Somali  soldiers.  I 
bad  received  about  twenty  slave-women,  with  their  children, 
into  my  camp,  and  at  the  last  moment  I  resolved  to  send  these 
also  by  boat  up  the  Tana.  Towards  seven  o'clock  the  Gallas 
arrived  with  the  four  boats  I  had  ordered,  and  I  could  then 
follow  my  column  on  horseback  to  Galamba.  How  right  it  was 
to  have  sent  grain  up  in  boats,  was  not  fully  shown  till  jj^^g^jity 
a  week  afterwards,  when  I  found  that  my  people  had  ofprovid- 

1  in^  grain. 

already,  in  the  first  days,  either  eaten  up  or  thrown 
away  the  grain  served  out  to  them,  that  was  to  have  lasted 
them  for  twenty-five  days.     By  means  of  these  four  boat-loads 
of  maize  I  had  it  once  more  put  into  my  power,  at  Hargazo, 
to  provision  my  column  for  several  days.     And  this  was  partly 


lo4  XEW  LIGHT  O.V  DARK  AFRICA. 

the  reason  why  we  did  not  experience  the  fate  of  the  English 
expeditions,  in  the  steppes  into  which  we  had  now  advanced. 

The  impressions  of  the  first  day's  march  from  Oda-Boru- 
Ruva  up  the  Tana  were  for  me  very  depressing.  Though  I 
had  put  most  of  the  slave-women,  with  their  children,  into  the 
boats,  a  few  had  preferred  to  march  with  their  husbands.  As 
Inveterate  I  I'ode  onward,  in  the  rear  of  my  expedition,  I  found 
stragglers,  ^j^ggg  ^g^y  elements  lying,  some  here,  others  there,  by 
the  wayside,  and  was  repeatedly  compelled  to  adopt  measures 
of  punishment,  to  maintain  the  old  order  of  march.  At  this 
first  march,  I  at  once  recognised  the  fact  that  it  would  not 
be  possible  to  caiTy  on  the  German  Emin  Pasha  Expedition 
further,  with  the  wives  and  children  of  the  newly -enlisted 
Gallas,  and  consequently  I  made  my  decision  on  the  evening 
Gaiamb  °^  *^^*'  ^^^'  ^*  Galamba.  This  place  lies  opposite  the 
point  in  the  river  where  the  island  of  Oda-Boru-Ruva 
terminates.  Wapokomo  and  Gallas  live  here  together,  and  by 
the  latter  we  were  welcomed  in  a  friendly  manner,  immediately 
upon  my  arrival. 

From  Galamba  onward  I  began,  so  to  speak,  to  hunt  for  the 
"  Kiloluma,"  which  was  marked  on  the  maps  of  that  day  as  a 
tributary  of  the  Tana.  For  this  purpose  I  made  a  boat  excur- 
sion up  the  Tana  this  afternoon,  whereby  I  ascertained  that 
here  at  least  no  Kiloluma  existed  ;  and,  by  enquiries  I  made, 
I  conceived  a  suspicion  that  no  tributary  of  the  kind  flows  into 
Supply  of  *^®  Tana.  When  I  returned  to  my  camp  from  this 
fish  in  the  excursion,  in  the  evening,  I  found  all  my  people 
employed  pulling  fish  out  of  the  river.  Behind  Oda- 
Boru-Ruva  the  Tana  begins  to  be  very  full  of  fish  ;  a  circum- 
stance by  which  my  column  learned  to  profit  more  and  more. 

This  day  was  not  fated,  however,  to  close  amid  such  cheer- 
ful impressions.  At  seven  o'clock  I  caused  the  slaves  of  the 
Gallas  who  accompanied  me  to  assemble  for  a  consultation,  and 
represented  to  them  that  it  would  be  quite  impossible  to  carry 
their  wives  and  children  with  me  into  the  interior  of  Africa. 
They  had  all  seen  to-day,  I  said,  how  wearisome  such  a  march 
was,  and  yet  to-day  we  had  only  had  half  or  a  quarter  of  a  day's 


SLAVE   WOMEN  AND   CHILDREN  SENT  BACK.  155 

marching.  We  were  as  j'et  still  in  countries  where  we  could 
journey  onward  in  peace.  But  it  would  be  certain  destruction 
to  women  and  children,  when  once  we  should  have  sot  „  . . 

'  ~       Decision 

into  the  territory  of  the  Massais.  T  was  very  sorry  for  concerning 
it,  but  I  must  put  it  to  them,  whether  they  would  be-  and 
take  themselves,  with  their  families,  back  to  the  Gallas,  ''^^  ^*"' 
who  were  friendly  to  us  now  ;  or,  as  an  alternative,  I  should 
be  willing  to  send  the  latter  under  an  escort,  this  very  evening, 
in  some  of  my  boats  down  the  Tana  to  Ngao.  At  that  place 
there  was  a  station  of  Germans,  to  whom  I  would  write  that 
they  were  to  give  the  needy  people  a  kind  welcome  ;  and  this 
they  would  certainly  do,  as  they  had  come  to  help  the  black 
people.  The  slaves  declared  that  they  were  prepared  to  die,  all 
of  them,  with  wives  and  children,  sooner  than  let  their  families 
fall  once  more  into  the  hands  of  the  Gallas.  They  good  sense 
could  see  plainly  that  they  would  probably  lose  many  "ftiiemen. 
of  their  people  in  the  interior,  if  they  went  with  me  ;  therefore 
they  accepted,  with  great  joy,  my  proposal  to  send  the  women 
and  children  to  Ngao,  until  the  expedition  was  finished.  Yem- 
bamba  and  another  old  slave  should  accompany  them,  and  the 
others  would  go  forward  with  me,  to  return  to  their  wives  and 
children  within  a  year.  I  immediately  had  two  large  boats 
unloaded,  and  placed  at  the  disposal  of  the  Gallas. 

It  was  urgently  necessary  that  they  should  pass  by  Oda- 
Boru-Ruva  that  very  night,  because  it  was  to  be  feared  that  by 
daylight  the  Gallas  would  pursue  the  boats,  and  get  them  into 
their  possession.    Accordingly,  I  urged  an  immediate  departure. 
During  the  next  half-hour  a  very  touching  and  heart-rending 
scene  was  enacted.     Men  were  taking  farewell  of  their  parting 
little  ones,  who  cried  and  wept  aloud.     Women  packed  "='''''• 
their  things  into  the  boats,  and  my  Somalis  cursed  at  the  whole 
affair,  which  gave  them  so  much  work  in  the  hours  of  night. 
The  boats  rode  deep  in  the  water,  when,  towards  nine  ^^  j^^. 
o'clock,   all    was    ready  for    departure.     I    urged    the  tives,o^n^ 
necessity  of  rowing  quickly  down  the  river  ;  and  if  my 
exhortation  had  been  attended  to  by  Yembamba,  there  is  no 
doubt  that,  in  the  deep  darkness  that  reigned  around,  they  would 


156  yi-JW  LIGHT  OX  DARK  AFRICA. 

have  got  past  Oda-Boru-Ruva  unperceived.  I  felt  quite  easy 
in  mj-  mind  as  to  the  late  of  the  column,  when  towards  eleven 
o'clock  the  Galla  Sultan  Sadeh,  and  his  brother  Parisa,  appeared 
in  a  most  innocent  manner  in  my  camp,  to  pass  the  night  with 
us.  I  naturally  assumed  that  they  had  not  seen  the  fugitives 
making  their  way  down  the  river,  or  else  that  their  fear  of  us 
was  still  sufficiently  strong  to  protect  the  latter  in  their 
retreat. 

Concerning  the  fate  of  the  party  I  was  first  enlightened 
three  days  afterwards,  when  Yembamba  rejoined  us,  bleeding 
and  half-starved.  The  boats  had,  it  appeared,  run  on  a  sand- 
Yembamba's  bank  in  the  dark  night,  and  could  not  be  floated  off 
doleful  re-    until  towards  the  morning.     They  had  then  been  chased 

appearance 

andnarra-  by  the  Gallas,  and  after  Yembamba  had  killed  three  of 
the  pursuers,  all  the  fugitives  had  fallen  once  more 
into  the  hands  of  their  mortal  enemies.  Yembamba  had 
escaped  to  the  right  bank  by  swimming  ;  and  from  thence, 
pursued  by  the  Gallas,  he  had  made  his  way  back  to  my 
column. 

It  was  one  of  the  cruel  necessities  to  which  I  was  exposed 
during  this  expedition,  that  it  was  not  permitted  me  to  turn 
back  once  more,  to  release  those  women  and  children  from  the 
hands  of  the  Gallas.  With  a  heavy  heart  I  was  compelled  to 
pursue  my  march  towards  the  west,  where  greater  questions 
were  awaiting  settlement. 

From  Galamba  upwards,  the  Tana  presents  an  uninterrupted 
succession  of  island  formations.  About  forty-six  miles  above 
Oda-Boru-Ruva  its  upper  course  changes  to  its  middle  course. 
Flowing  onward  through  a  rocky  bed  thus  far,  it  enters  the 
sandy  steppe  at  Hargazo,  and  in  the  varying  height  of  the  water 
Course  of  new  channels  of  streams  continually  are  produced,  and 
the  Tana,  corresponding  formations  of  islands.  At  intervals  are 
expanses  in  the  form  of  lakes,  so  that  the  river  reminds  one 
vividly  of  the  Havel  between  Potsdam  and  Spandau.  All  these 
islands,  whose  uniform  character  was  first  noticed  by  us,  I 
afterwards  entered  in  the  map  under  the  common  appellation  of 
the  Von  der  Heydt  Islands.     The  shores  are  here  clothed  with  a 


THE   COriiSE   OF   THE   TAXA. 


157 


thick  fringe  of  forest,  which,  seen  from  the  river,  appears  in 
parts  like  a  hanging  wood.  The  ishuids  rise,  dark  green  in 
cohjur,  from  the  bright  snrface  of  the  water,  so  that  boat 
excursions  here  on  the  Tana,  of  whicli  I  undertook  xhe  islands 
several,  offer  unusual  charms  of  landscape.  On  thi' ^"^ '^^  "^"^■• 
left  bank  are  still  found  some  Wapokomo  settlements,  which 
extend  as  far  as  Hameje.  The  right  side  of  the  river,  along 
which  we  marched,  is  already  a  completel}'  desert  steppe,  un- 
peopled b)"  the  wars  of  centuries  between  Gallas  and  Wakandja, 


The  Vox  dek  Heydt  Islands. 

who  extend  their  predator}-  raids  as  far  as  this  region,  aud 
whose  camping-places  we  had  an  opportunity  of  observing, 
already  in  the  first  days  of  our  march,  behind  fralamba. 

The  river  dt'viates  here  more  and  more  from  its  nortli- 
western  course  to  a  western  direction,  but  from  Hargazo  begins 
to  turn  back  towards  the  south-west.  Tlie  names  settlements 
entered  upon  the  map,  sucli  as  Gakashannjrra,  Iposa,  ""^  ''^'"''■■ 
Galangogessa,  Hameje,  and  so  on,  do  imt  signify  towns,  but 
(inly  ])]aces  by  the  rivei'.  I  conjecture  that  they  were  once 
(Taila  settlements.  The  forest  on  the  margin  is  here  unusually 
broad,  and  the  openings  to  the  river  can  hardly  be  descried, 


158  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

SO  that  my  messengers  whom  I  had  sent  up  the  stream  a  few 
weeks  before  from  Oda-Boru-Ruva  had  almost  perished  from 
exhaustion.     We  had,  however,  three  efficient  Gallas  as  guides, 
imder  the  leadership'  of  Parisa,  the  brother  of  Sultan  Sadeh. 
Thus,  by  a  five  days'  march  through  the  steppe,  we  arrived  safely 
at  glorious  Hameje,  where,  with  its  luxuriant  islands 
Hamejeandand  lake-like  expansions,  surrounded  by  magnificent 
Its  islands,  i^g^jjgijjg  ^yoods,  alive  with  all  kinds  of  game  animals 
and  fowl,  the  stream  assumes  an  altogether  imposing  appear- 
ance.    Hameje  represents  a  ford  to  the  water,  and  forms  one 
of  the    broad   dry  arms   of  the  stream,  where  tracks  of  wild 
animals  lead  to  the  water.     As  had  been  often  the  case  before, 
in   the  night  we  heard   the   roaring  of  lions  immediately  in 
front  of  our  tents,  and  Herr  von  Tiedemann  was  even  obliged 
to  vacate  his  tent  in  rather  quick  time,  because  one  of  these 
amiable  guests,  moved  probably  by  a  kind  of  curiosity,  felt 
himself  impelled  to  bring  his  head  a  little  too  near  the  tent. 
Visit  from  Tiedemauu   struck   at    him    several   times   with   the 
lion.        revolver,  whereupon  both  parties  took  a  most  summary 
leave  of  each  other — one  betaking  himself  into  the  forest,  the 
other  to  the  camp-fires  of  the  Somalis.     The  next  morning 
when  we  started  I  enjoyed  the  still  more  original  spectacle  of  a 
lion  stretched  out,  in  broad  daylight,  close  by  our  line  of  march. 
I  was  unfortunately  on  horseback,  and  had  given  my  rifle  to  a 
servant  to  carry,  so  that  our  meeting  was  to  a  certain  extent 
only  a  platonic  one  ;  though  the  lion  did  not  seem  at  all  in  a 
hurry  to  get  up,  but  measured  me  for  a  tolerably  long  time 
with  his  eyes,  before  he  slowly  betook  himself  into  the  forest. 

On  the  afternoon  of  October  25th  I  made  a  boating  excur- 
Excursion  siou  of  Several  hours  up  the  Tana,  still  searching  for 
on  the  Tana. ^^g  Kiloluma  ;  the  noil-existence  of  which  river,  as  far 
as  Hameje,  I  had  already  proved  by  the  boats  I  sent  up.  This 
day  I  navigated  along  the  northern  bank  of  the  Tana,  till  close 
to  Hargazo,  without  seeing  any  stream  running  into  it  from  the 
north.  Next  morning  I  caused  my  boats  to  follow  me  to 
Hargazo,  and  the  boatmen  corroborated  the  fact  that  there  was 
no  river-mouth  on  the  north  as  far  as  that  place. 


a 


CATARACTS   OF   THE  TAXA.  159 

A  bright  halo  encircles  that  day  at  Hameje  in  the  memory 
of  us  all.  Here  for  the  first  time  the  mountain  chains  in  the 
west  came  clearly  into  view.  My  people  revelled  in  the 
enjoyment  of  the    supplies   that  were  brought  to  us  „    .  . 

1  .         -        ,  "  Eemmis- 

here  m  the  boats,  and  tumbled  about  merrily  in  the  oences  of 
broad  shallow  river,  after  the  six  days'  marching  ^*™*''*- 
through  the  scorched  steppe.  We  all  imagined  we  had  the 
Kenia  before  us,  and  fancied  ourselves  a  month  and  a  half 
nearer  to  the  goal  of  our  journey  than  we  were  in  reality. 
In  the  most  cheerful  of  spirits  we  marched  next  morning  upon 
Hargazo. 

The  surface  of  the  country  here  for  the  first  time  begins  to 
lose  the  character  of  a  steppe,  and  to  assume  a  more  undulat- 
ing  form.     The    character   of  the  bush  flora  becomes   more 
luxuriant.     In  cool  valleys  a  fresher  wealth  of  grass  Eiojj^ggg 
and  a  richer  store  of  flowers  appear.     Many-coloured  of  the 
butterflies  hover  above  the  glittering  array  of  blossoms,  ^' 

and  the  granitic  ground  gives  indication  that  we  are  very  neai' 
the  mountains.  At  Hargazo,  where  we  arrived  at  eleven  in 
the  morning,  the  Tana  again  spreads  out  in  a  lake-like  form ; 
and  here  it  seemed  to  be  at  last,  the  fork  of  the  river  that  we 
had  been  seeking  so  long.  The  Tana  here  falls  from  its  upper 
into  its  middle  course,  in  a  series  of  rapids  and  a  cataract  of 
about  20  to  22  feet  in  height.  To  this  fall  I  at  once  betook 
myself,  by  boat,  with  my  servant  Rukua  and  a  few 
Wapokomo.     "  Kiloluma  !  "  cried  the  Wapokomo  when  of  the 

Tana 

they  saw  it.     To  the  left  of  the  fall  a  broad  arm  bends 
away  in  a  south-west  direction.     Towards  the  north-west  the 
Kiloluma  falls  down.      There  it  was  at  last,  as  it  seemed  ! 
Full  of  joyful  emotion,  I  had  myself  rowed  close  under  the  fall, 
whose  refreshing  spray  I  enjoyed  to  the  utmost.     I  climbed  up 
the  rock  on  the   left,  from  which  it  poured  down,  and  thus 
ascertained  its  height  with  tolerable  accuracy.     In  honour  of 
the  President  of  the  German  Emin  Pasha  committee,  Hofinann 
Minister  of  State  von  Hofmann,  I  named  it  "  Hofmann  ^^^^^^ 
Falls,"  and  then  I  immediately  returned   down  river  to  the 
camp,  to  impart  my  discovery  to  Herr  von  Tiedemann,  and  to 


160  XEW  LIGHT  OX  DARK  AFRICA. 

note  it  down  at  once.  On  that  morning  I  did  not  yet  know 
that  "  Kiloluma  "  is  merely  the  Ukamba  word  for  a  rushing 
stream  or  waterfall,  and  that  the  whole  Upper  Tana  is  known 
by  this  name  among  the  Wakamba. 

That  the  fork  of  the  river  I  had  seen  in  the  morning  had 

nothing  to  do  with  a  second  river  coming  from  the  north,  but 

was  simply  a  dividing  of  the  Tana  itself  into  two  arms,  I  was 

able  to  verify  as  early  as  the  afternoon  of  October  26th. 

"Rta.ti  ftTl  PR 

of  the  On  that  afternoon  I  determined  to  follow  up  my  dis- 
^*'^°"  covery  of  the  morning,  and  therefore  directed  Herr  von 
Tiedemann  to  proceed  with  two  boats  up  the  left  arm  of  the 
river,  while  I  myself,  with  a  company  of  people,  followed  the 
course  of  the  stream  on  the  same  side  by  land.  Something 
more  than  a  mile  above  the  place  where  the  river  separates 
into  branches  below  the  fall,  I  came  upon  the  boats,  which  had 
stuck  fast  in  the  rapids  of  the  southern  arm.  To  my  astonish- 
ment I  could  perceive,  from  the  high  river  bank,  that  these 
The  rapids,  rapids  in  the  southern  arm  rush  down  somewhat  above 
a  branching  of  the  stream  towards  the  north,  so  that  we  had 
manifestly  an  island  formation  before  us.  Could  the  upper 
arm  of  the  river  perhaps  be  identical  with  the  current  that  I 
had  seen  from  below  in  the  morning,  and  which  throws  itself 
into  the  Hofmann  Falls  ?     This  trace  must  be  followed  up. 

Accordingly,  I  had  a  boat  brought  over  to  me, — which  was 
done  with  great  difficulty, — embarked  upon  it  with  Herr  von 
Tiedemann,  a  Somali,  and  two  Wapokomo,  and  then  had  it 
taken  into  the  northern  arm  of  the  river.  Along  this  we  drove 
down  for  some  distance,  and  then  went  on  shore  to  the  north, 
to  get  a  general  survey  of  the  surrounding  country.  On  the 
Tiede-  proposal  of  Herr  von  Tiedemann  we  ascended  a  hill  to 
mann's  Hiu.  the  north  of  the  Tana,  which  I  have  called,  after  him, 
Tiedemann  Hill.  From  this  point  we  had  the  view  we  wanted. 
There,  to  the  west,  in  front  of  the  setting  sun,  rose  an  impor- 
tant chain  of  mountains,  losing  itself  in  unlimited  distance 
towards  the  north.  Those  were  the  mountains  which  we  had 
already  seen,  under  peculiarly  favourable  conditions  of  light, 
from  Oda-Boru-Ruva, — the   chain  which  here  met  our  view, 


THE   VARIOUS  FOUNTAIN  CHAINS.  161 

and  which,  following  the  old  maps,  Ave  had  always  considered  as 
connected  at  least  with  the  Kenia  mountain  system.  Especially 
magnificent  rose,  to  the  north-west  of  where  we  stood,  a  moun- 
tain peak,  whose  summit  had  something  of  the  form  of  a  round 
half-overturned  garden  tahle.  Behind  the  first  chain,  peak 
after  peak  reared  its  head.     "We  stood,  strongly  inter- 

j.    1  •,  ■•  .  n  .  ,  .    ,    Mountain 

ested,  opposite   an  entire  region  of  mountains,  which  chains  of 
the   eye    of  no  white  man   had   yet  beheld.     In  the  *''*^'''''" 
glowing  evening  sky  the  outlines  of  the  mountains  stood  forth 
with  especially  picturesque  distinctness.     It  was  the  first  time 
the  German  Emin  Pasha  Expedition  stood  in  view  of  a  magni- 
ficent formation  of  land  ;  and  mindful  of  the  powerful  The  "Em- 
bond  which,  here  in  the  far-distant  land,  united  us  two  ^[juam  n 
Germans  the  more  closely  with  our  German  home.  Mountains." 
I  christened  these  mountains  the  "  Emperor  William  II.  Moun- 
tains," and  called  the  most  prominent  peak,  towering  before  us, 
the  "  Hohenzollern  Peak." 

The  sun  sank  in  the  west,  and,  willingly  or  unwillingly,  we 
were  obliged  to  tear  ourselves  from  the  sight  before  us,  for 
fear  of  losing  oar  way  to  the  boat  and  the  camp,  in  the  rapidly- 
approaching  darkness.     With  some  difficulty  we  succeeded  in 
getting  back  to  the  boat ;  and  now,  in  the  grey  twilight,  we 
drove  down  the  current  of  the  northern  Tana  into  the  rapids, 
that  rolled  more  and  more  ^Yildly.     The  little  boat  flew  hissing 
through  the   foam  of  the  rushing  river.     The  people  An  adven- 
had  to  be  continually  baling  out  the  water  that  poured  boat"^ 
in  over  the  gunwales  to  keep  the  boat  from  sinking.  ''°y^s^- 
At  times  there  was  a  danger  of  its  being  shattered  on  a  pointed 
rock  ;  sometimes  of  its  capsizing  in  a  hissing  whirlpool.    It  was 
a  nerve-bracing  passage,  lasting   about  half  an   hour,    when 
suddenly  we  heard  the  roaring  of  the  cataract  in  front  of  us. 
At  first  our  boatmen  had  launched  with  reluctance  and  fear 
into  the  foaming  rapids  ;  but  gradually  they  had  gained  cour- 
age, probably  imagining  that  we  possessed  a   charm  against 
capsizing,  and  now  they  were  for  boldly  rowing  down  Danger  to 
the  Hofmann  Fall  itself,  which  is  from  20  to  24  feet  *^"  '"'^*- 
high.     With  the  greatest  difficulty  we  managed  to  bring  the 

11 


162  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

boat  up,  at  the  last  moment,  on  the  right  bank,  where  it  was 
drawn  ashore,  and  carried  down  to  a  point  below  the  falls.  We 
were,  in  truth,  below  the  Hofmann  Fall  that  I  had  discovered 
that  morning ;  and  thus  the  fact  was  confirmed,  that  in  this 
"  Kiloluma "  there  was  no  question  of  a  tributary  from  the 
north,  but  simply  of  a  fork  of  the  river  ;  and  that  consequently 
the  land  in  the  south  is  merely  an  island,  which  I  have  named 
Hofmann  Island.  I  was  able  still  further  to  establish  this 
GeograpM-  when,  ou  our  passage  back  to  the  camp,  we  again  passed 
cai  results,  ^]^g  forked  poiut  to  the  south-west  that  I  had  seen  in 
the  morning.  Thus  on  Octbber  26th,  1889,  a  very  noticeable 
negative  result  was  gained  for  the  geography  of  the  Upper 
Tana  ;  and  in  consequence  we  returned  in  a  very  jubilant  frame 
of  mind  into  the  camp,  where  on  the  same  evening  I  wrote  a 
report  of  the  morning's  and  afternoon's  observations  for  trans- 
mission to  the  German  Emin  Pasha  committee  at  home. 

My  Galla  guides  were  desirous  of  returning  to  their  country 
that  very  evening,  according  to  the  terms  of  their  ,agreement, 
The  GaUa  ^lade  in  Oda-Boru-Ruva.  I  ordered  two  of  them,  how- 
guides.  ever,  to  accompany  me  further  up  the  river,  until  I 
should  succeed  in  procuring  fresh  guides.  I  sent  one  of  the 
Gallas,  with  a  few  Wapokomo,  during  the  night,  to  their  people, 
to  satisfy  the  latter  concerning  the  fate  of  their  fellow-countrymen 
who  were  with  us.  Thus  with  fresh  courage,  on  October  27th, 
we  resumed  our  wandering  towards  the  unknown  west. 

As  I  was  entirely  uninstructed  in  the  geography  of  these 
countries,  I  determined  to  make  an  attempt  to  get  my  boats 
xrapfs  con-  farther  up  the  Tana.  Krapf  had,  in  his  time, 
concerning  expressed  his  opinion,  from  Ukamba  Kitui,  that  the 
the  Tana.  Xaua  might  be  navigable  down  to  its  mouth.  I 
resolved,  in  summary  fashion,  to  established  the  correctness 
or  error  of  Krapf's  conjecture.  The  very  first  day  brought  the 
proof  that  his  hypothesis  was  utterly  untenable  ;  which  is  not 
at  all  surprising,  when  the  fact  is  taken  into  account  that  the 
level  of  the  land  at  Hargazo  is  about  1,000  feet  above  that  of 
the  sea,  and  that  after  the  first  day's  march  of  about  nine  miles 
■we  had  already  reached  a  level  of  1,500  feet.     In  consequence 


NATURE  OF  THE   UPPER   TANA    COUNTRY,  163 

of  this  scale  of  ascent  from  Hargazo,  which  is  uninterruptedly 
maintained  up  to  the  source  of  the  Tana,  the  stream  Nature  of 
from  this  point  presents  a  series  of  cataracts  and  "^  '^°'^^^- 
rapids,  which  in  several  instances  exhibit  themselves  on  a 
magnificent  scale.  The  descent  from  this  part  is  through  a 
series  of  terraces,  and  these  terraces  slope  generally  in  an 
abrupt  form  towards  the  east.  To  the  traveller  coming  from 
the  east,  a  terrace  ridge  of  this  kind  appears,  from  the  dis- 
tance, as  a  sharply-defined  mountain  ridge.  After  ascending  it, 
he  finds  himself  in  a  flat  steppe,  like  that  of  the  lower  and 
middle  Tana,  and  sees  towering  on  the  horizon  a  new  mountain 
range,  which  afterwards,  in  its  turn,  proves  to  be  the  ridge  of 
a  terrace. 

Thus  it  goes  on  uninterruptedly  as  far  as  Kikuyu  and  the 
Leikipeia  plateau,  where  we  have  before  us,  at  an  elevation  of 
7,000  feet,  the  culmination  of  this  grand  elevated  plateau  forma- 
tion, which  on  the  other  side  slightly  declines  again  towards  the 
Victoria  Nyanza.     This  general  swelling  upward  of  the  _, 

i.ii6  ^r6&>ii 

great  mass  of  land  surface  evidently  shows  a  peculiar  elevated 

plateau 

formation,  the  centre  of  which  is  the  volcanic  hearth 
of  the  Baringo  territory,  and  on  which  the  conical  peaks  of 
the  Kenia,  the  Subugula  Poron,  the  Tchibcharagnani,  and  the 
Elgon,  all  similar  in  character,  are  superimposed.     These  four, 
in  tolerably  regular  declivities,  surround  Lake  Baringo,  which 
is  manifestly  nothing  more  than  an  extinct  crater.     The  great 
mass  of  this  elevated  plateau  is  divided  in  the  midst  by  a 
tremendous  rift,  in  which,  among  others,  are  situated  y^j^^jjij. 
Lake  Nairwasha  and  Lake  Baringo,  besides  a  series  of  nature  of 
smaller  lakes.     I  shall  have  to  return  to  this  peculiar 
formation.     It  will  suffice  here  to  remark  that  the  ascent  con- 
tinues uninterruptedly  from  Hargazo,  and  that,  accordingly, 
from  this  place  the  Tana  takes  the  form  of  a  Kiloluma,  or  uoisy 
river,  and  therefore  there  can  be  no  question  about  its  being 
tinnavigable. 

Our  camping-ground  on  October  27th  was  at  a  place  called 
by  the  Gallas  Jibije.  Here  the  line  of  hills  of  the  Emperor 
William's   chain   crosses  the  Tana,  and   they  appear  as  very 


104 


iVSTF  LIGHT  ON  DABK  AFRICA. 


extraordinary  rocky  iViniiatioDs.     One  of  these  peaks,  2,000  feet 
hkh,  I  ascended  in  the  afternoon  with  Herr  von  'I'iede- 

Jibije  and         ^     '  xi        j-   ii       •  *I 

themoun-  mann  ;  and  we  had  once  more  the  lull  vievv  over  the 
*^''''^''^'- Emperor  William  II.  Mountains;  and  in  the  north-east 
we  ajjain  saw  tlie  line  ol'  the  Galla  nnjuntains  displayed. 

My  people  had  not  been  able  to  bring  the  boats  up  to 
Jibije  ;  and  if,  on  that  evening,  I  attributed  the  non-arrival  of 
those  vessels  to  want  of  energy  in  my  followers,  I  was  able  on 


The  "  Devil's  Field.' 


the  following  day  to  convince  myself,  by  the  witness  of  my 
own  eyes,  of  the  complete  impossibility  of  navigating 

1.  ll6    1.  a>llS> 


not  navi 
srable. 


the  Tana.  For  on  this  day  the  stream  poured  itself 
along  over  rough  grey  boulders,  which  reminded  me 
vividly  of  some  parts  below  the  Brocken,  and  which  I  was 
inclined  to  insert  hi  my  maj)  as  "  Devil's  Field."  The  river  here 
merges  into  a  series  of  raging  torrents.  All  is  lost  in  a  grey 
foam,  and  there  is  nothing  like  a  regular  stream.  But  directly 
we  have  ascended  the  terrace,  M'e  have  suddenly  before  us  once 


MURDOI  AND   THE   WANDOROBBO.  165 

more  the  quiet  Tana  river,  standing  out  darkly  in  the  shadow 
of  the  forest  trees.  From  this  point  the  Tana  receives  a 
number  of  small  tributar}^  streams  coming  from  the  north,  from 
the  mountains.  Along  the  stream,  growing  higher  with  each 
day's  journey,  rises  a  chain  of  mountains,  forming,  perhaps,  the 
southern  slope  of  the  Emperor  William  Mountains,  and  which 
I  have  named  Bennigsen  Chain. 

To  the  south  of  the  Tana  we  here  arrive  in  a  land  which 
till  then  was  not  marked  on  the  maps, — Murdoi.  About 
fourteen  miles  beyond  Hargazo  this  little  country  begins ;  I 
have  not  been  able  to  determine  its  extension  towards  the  south. 
Here  the  Massai  tribe  of  the  Wandorobbo  ranges  with 

Tile  Wan- 

its  herds  through  the  steppe,  which,  so  far  as  I  know,  dorotijo 
here  alone  rejoices  in  independence  of  the  real  Massais. 
Between  Wakamba  and  Gallas  they  roam  over  the  country  with 
their  great  herds  of  oxen,  sheep,  goats,  and  asses,  exhausting 
■one  pasturage  after  another.  Like  the  Somalis  below  Oda- 
Boru-Ruva,  they  likewise  were  compelled  in  the  year  1889, 
through  the  drought  in  the  back  districts,  to  keep,  with  their 
herds,  near  the  Tana  ; — a  piece  of  great  good  fortune  for  the 
-German  Emin  Pasha  Expedition.     For  some  distance  „ 

J^  Traces  of 

beyond  Hargazo  we   had  still  come   upon  traces   of  Pigott's 
Pigott's   expedition.      But   suddenly   these   traces  of  *^^^ 
■encampment  had  ceased,  and  we  had  been  able  to  ascertain  that 
the  expedition  had  turned  oflf  towards  the  south.     It  had  been 
compelled  to  this  by  want  of  provisions.     This  fate  we  should 
scarcely  have  experienced,  as  we  still  had  some  stores  in  hand, 
and  I  should  in  no  case  have  marched  upon  Mombas,  but  under 
all  circumstances  should  have  tried  to  work  my  way  through 
to  Ukamba  Momoni,  from  thence  to  Ukamba  Kitui,  and  Projected 
so  to  the  Baringo.     Still  the  situation  already  began  to  '^°"*®- 
be  very  embarrassing,  as  my  people  now  only  carried  with  them 
a  portion  of  the  provisions  that  had  been  given  them.     Conse- 
quently I  felt  a  most  lively  interest  in  the  footsteps  which  we 
discerned  for  the  first  time  on  October  28th. 

On  the  following  day,  when,  to  ascertain  the  way,  I  was 
marching  with  the  Gallas  and  a  few  Somalis  in  front  of  the 


166  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

expedition,  we  suddenly  saw  female  footsteps  of  the  preceding^ 
Footsteps  day,  which  led  to  a  river  ford.  I  now  at  once  resolved 
of  women,  jq  make  an  end  of  the  uncertainty  I  felt,  through  the 
lack  of  all  information  concerning  the  countries  in  front  of  us. 
If  women  had  come  to  the  river  the  day  before,  their  tribe  must 
be  in  the  immediate  neighbourhood,  for  it  would  hardly  have 
allowed  its  most  valuable  possession,  which  was  represented  by 
the  women,  to  wander  to  any  distance.  Accordingly,  it  might  be 
assumed  that  the  tribe,  of  whatever  race  it  might  form  a  part,, 
to  which  these  female  footsteps  belonged,  must  dwell  in  the 
immediate  neighbourhood  of  the  river  ford.  This  could  also  b& 
conjectured  from  the  many  foot  tracks  of  sheep  and  oxen  which 
covered  the  whole  ford.  Now  these  tribes  used  to  drive  their 
herds  to  the  water  at  aoon.  It  was  now  eleven  o'clock.  I  deter- 
waiting  at  mined,  consequently,  to  let  Herr  von  Tiedemann  and  the 
the  ford,  column  pass  by,  and  to  commission  them  to  choose  a 
suitable  camping -place,  but  myself  to  remain  in  ambush,  with 
a  few  soldiers  and  able-bodied  Mangemas,  around  the  ford,  to 
establish  relations  in  this  manner  with  the  natives.  My  people 
hid  themselves  in  the  thicket,  and  I  seated  myself,  well  hidden, 
on  a  block  of  stone  in  the  river  ford  itself.  We  had  hardly  been 
there  half  an  hour,  after  the  departure  and  marching  past  of  the 
expedition,  when  suddenly  the  lively  chattering  of  girls  was 
heard  from  the  south.  There  were  eleven  girls,  more  or  less 
young,  coming  towards  the  Tana  with  water-pitchers.  Suddenly 
they  were  challenged,  and  great  was  their  astonishment  when  they 
saw  me,  an  apparition  such  as  they  had  never  seen,  rising  out 
of  the  bed  of  the  river.  With  the  help  of  the  Gallas  I  succeeded 
in  ascertaining  that  they  belonged  to  the  Wandorobbo  tribe, 
ca  ture  of  Strangely  enough,  they  looked  upon  me  with  far  more 
Wandorobbo  astonishment  and  curiosity  than  fear,  and  made  nO' 
sort  of  resistance  when  I  made  them  understand  that 
they  must  follow  me  into  my  camp.  That  is  the  right  of  war 
in  these  lands  ;  and  the  women  know  that,  in  surprises  of  this 
kind,  they  run  no  peril  of  their  lives. 

I  informed  them  that  I  should  let  them  go  immediately,  if 
their  tribe,  which  for  some  days  had  kept  timidly  aloof  from 


A   BRUSH  WITH  WAKAMBA    WARRIORS.  167 

US,    would   consent   to   communicate   with   me,   for   the    sale 
of  food   and  the   supplying  of  guides.      After  ahout  Embassy 
an  hour's  march  I  came  upon  our  camp,  and  at  once  *"  ti^s 
sent  away  two  of  the   girls  with  presents,  to  carry  robbo."' 
my  proposals  of  peace  to  the  Wandorobbo. 

While  they  were  away,  fate  decreed  that  the  want  of  guides, 
at  least,  should  be  supplied  in  a  different  manner.     Suddenly 
three  new  figures  appeared  in  my  camp — ^three  young  men  of 
lofty  stature,   completely  naked,   with   only  a  piece  of   stuff 
wound  round  the  neck  and  hanging  on  the  back,  and  each  man 
with  a  sort  of  travelling  bag  bound  round  his  forehead  with  a 
string.     I  requested  them  to  draw   near,   which  they  wakamba 
readily  did.     But    so    soon  as   they  saw  my  Gallas,  ■warriors, 
they    jumped    up    suddenly    with    long    leaps,    and    wanted 
to   take   to    flight.     I    caused    my   Somalis    to  prevent  them 
from  doing  this,  and  had  the  three  secured,  for  safety.    They 
were  Wakamba  warriors,  from   the  Mumoni  mountains,  and 
had  gone   out  on  a  foraging  expedition  after  female  slaves. 
They  knew  the  lands  before  us  very  accurately,  and  I  informed 
them,  in  all  friendship,  that  they  were  to  have  the  kindness 
to  show  us  the  way  to  Ukamba,  where  I  would  dismiss  them 
with  presents.      They  had  wanted  to  go  slave-catching,  and 
were  not  at  all  agreeably  surprised  at  having  fallen  into  the 
toils  themselves.     I  was  still  pacifyins  them  on  this  „  . 

^  •'       °  Ominous 

subject,  when  suddenly  war  cries  and  the  rattle  of  sounds  of 
musketry  were  heard  from  the  direction  where  a  por- 
tion of  my  Somalis  had  encamped  with  the  camels.  The 
Wandorobbo,  instead  of  entering  mto  friendly  negotiations  with 
me,  had  preferred  at  once  to  attack  my  camp ;  but  they  were 
at  once  driven  back  with  volleys  from  our  repeating  rifles, 
and  chased  beyond  view  of  our  camps.  Only  one  of  them 
was  left  dead  on  the  field  in  this  attempt. 

I  now  sent  away  to  the  tribe  two  more  of  the  women  we  had 
brought  home,  with  the  intimation,  that  if  they  con-  Dr.  Peters' 
tinned  such  foolish  proceedings,  I  should  make  war  with  thrwan- 
them  on  my  part,  and  they  would  very  soon  have  to  dorobbo. 
repent  their  rashness.    If,  however,  they  would  live  in  friendship 


1G8  XEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

\\\{\i  me,  I  would  at  once  send  back  the  rest  of  their  girls 
to  them.  But  I  must  insist,  as  I  had  guides  from  elsewhere, 
that  they  should  at  least  bring  me  a  few  sheep  and  goats  for 
sale.  My  column  had  been  so  excited  by  the  occurrences 
of  the  morning,  that  repeatedly,  both  by  day  and  night, 
the  men  allowed  themselves  to  be  startled  by  false  alarms, 
and  rushed  to  entirely  unrealised  encounters  with  imaginary 
enemies.  At  one  time  came  the  report  that  one  of  my  porters 
Adverse  had  been  killed  at  the  river  by  the  Massais  ;  at  another, 
reports,  q^q  gf  ^j^g  j^en  was  firing  blindly  into  the  thicket, 
because  an  enemy  had  been  descried  there.  All  this  made 
a  very  disagreeable  impression,  and,  in  consequence,  I  again 
had  a  fence  erected  around  the  camp. 

Towards  three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  appeared  the 
ambassadors  of  the  Wandorobbo,  two  wonderful  apparitions, 
to  us  who  came  from  the  east.  They  were  entirely  nude,  with 
their  whole  bodies  besmeared  with  red  clay,  their  hair  artfully 
The  Wan-  arranged  in  ringlets  round  the  head,  the  quiver  full 
ambassa-  of  poisoned  arrows,  and  the  bow  over  their  shoulders, 
^'"^^-  and  the  lance  and  Massai  shield  in  their  hands.  The 
feeling  involuntarily  arose,  that  we  had  now  penetrated  among 
entirely  new  tribes,  and  into  completely  strange  regions.  While 
among  the  Gallas  there  had  always  been  a  certain  maintaining 
of  relations  with  the  coast  such  relations  were  here  entirely 
absent,  and  there  was  not  the  slightest  sign  that  these  people 
had  ever  seen  Suaheli  or  Arabs,  much  less  white  men.  The 
Wandorobbo  ambassadors  brought  out  their  demands  in  a  loud. 
Insolence  ™perious  toue,  SO  that  I  had  to  admonish  them  several 
of  their  times  to  moderate  their  voices,  as  this  shouting  was  not 
and  de-  the  way  to  my  heart.  They  demanded  that  their  girls 
mands.  should  be  given  up  ;  I,  on  the  other  hand,  declared, 
I  must  first  have  my  sheep  ;  and  when  they  protested  that 
they  had  not  the  power  to  give  me  them,  I  ordered  them,  if 
that  were  so,  to  come  again  the  following  morning,  and  to 
Fortifying  bring  the  sultan  of  the  tribe  with  them.  Not  until  then 
the  camp,  ^guld  I  negotiate  with  them  for  the  delivering  up  of 
the  women.     I  made  use  of  the  evening  hours  further  to  fortify 


XeGuTIATION    \VITH    Tlli;    ^\'A^'DMl;OBB^,) 


HUNTING  FOR  A   BREAKFAST.  169 

the  camp,  and  in  the  night  I  had  good  watch  kept.  But 
■with  the  exception  of  a  few  false  alarm  shots,  we  remained 
undisturbed. 

I  now  wrote  a  last  report  for  Europe,  in  which  I  related  the 
occurrences  until  the  evening  of  this  day,  and  especially  my 
discoveries  on  the  Tana.     I  purposed  next  morning  to  send  the 
Gallas  and  the  Wapokomo  I  had  brought  from  Oda-Boru-Euva 
back  to  their  homes,  and  to  get  my  packet  to  Europe 
in  this   way,  through  the  intervention  of  the  second  for 
column,  which  might  be  coming  up,  or  perhaps  by  the    "'^°'^' 
post  messenger  whom  I  expected  with  news  from  the  coast. 

They  departed   on  the  morning  of  October  30th,  already 
before  sunrise,  as  the  Gallas  feared  to  be  seen  and  killed  by 
the   Wandorobbo    or   the   Wakambas.     As    I   was   afterwards 
informed  by  Herr  Borchert,  Parisa  arrived  home  safely  parisa's 
at  Oda-Boru-Ruva  with  his  people,  but  did  not  deliver  ^^si^ct. 
any  of  the  reports  for  Europe  that  had  been  sent  by  him.    Early 
in  the  morning  I  was  gratified  by  the  agreeable  intelligence  that 
there  was  no  meat  for  our  breakfast,  and  that  our  private  ser- 
vants had  had  nothing  to  eat  since  yesterday.     A  very  prospect  of 
charming  piece  of  news,  if  we  consider  the  complete  fa™!"^- 
isolation  of  such  a  position.     It  is  certainly  much  more  easy 
to  criticise,  after  the  fact,  the  manner  in  which  any  one  has 
extricated   himself  from  such  a  desperate  situation,   than  to 
manage  extrication  at  the  place  itself. 

I  threw  my  gun  over  my  shoulder  and,  that  I  might  at 
least  do  something  for  us,  went  forth  from  the  camp,  with  my 
servant  Rukua,  into  the  steppe  to  shoot.  Two  thin  pigeons 
were  the  entire  result  of  my  foray,  from  which  I  a  useless 
returned  half  dead  with  hunger  two  hours  afterwards.  *'''^°^- 
The  pigeons  were  as  quickly  forgotten  as  eaten.  The  Wando- 
robbo question  began,  indeed,  to  become  a  burning  one.  Then, 
towards  eleven  o'clock,  the  AVandorobbo  elders  at  length  ap- 
peared before  the  camp,  with  the  five  sheep  I  had  demanded. 
After  we  had  demonstrated  and  sworn,  by  spitting  at  each  other 
several  times,  that  our  intentions  towards  each  other  were  good, 
we   entered  upon  the  negotiation  for  exchanging  the  women 


170  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

for  the  sheep.  The  Wandorobbo  must  have  thought  us  veiy 
bad  men  of  business  to  give  them  back  their  women  for  the  five 
sheep.  In  these  countries  the  price  of  a  woman  gene- 
robbo nego- rally  rises  to  fifty  sheep;  and  according  to  African 
bad  bar-  ideas  01  polity,  our  right  oi  possession  was  mde- 
^*'"'  feasible  after  the  occurrences  of  the  day  before.  Two 
sheep  were  quickly  slaughtered ;  one  of  them  was  given  to  the 
people,  and  one  was  consigned  to  the  cauldrons  for  us  and  the 
Somalis,  and  within  an  hour  it  had  been  consumed. 

I  now  caused  a  start  to  be  made,  to  get,  as  soon  as  possible, 
to  Ukamba  Mumoni,  which,  according  to  the  statements  of  the 
Wakamba,  lay  only  two  or  three  days'  journey  before  us.  The 
way  lay  through  rugged  bush  and  over  some  stony  and  ever- 
rising  ground.  On  the  way  I  succeeded  in  killing  a  guinea- 
Tbe  order  ^'o^f^,  which  I  gave  Nogola  to  carry.  The  march  wag 
of  march,  exceedingly  fatiguing ;  the  camels,  especially,  could 
only  advance  with  difficulty,  and  every  now  and  then  they  had 
to  be  unloaded  to  climb  up  the  heights.  At  four  o'clock,  as  I 
was  marching  at  the  head  of  the  column,  I  discovered  a  ford 
in  the  river,  and  determined  to  encamp  there.  I  sent  Nogola 
to  the  chief  column,  to  Herr  von  Tiedemann,  to  show  him  the 
place,  to  which  I  myself  proceeded  with  a  few  Somalis  to 
commence  the  work  of  clearing  away,  before  pitching  the  camp. 
Five  o'clock  came,  the  sun  began  to  sink,  and  not  a  human 
Anxiety  for  being  appeared.  I  sent  two  Somalis  back,  and  towards 
the  column,  half-past  five  had  the  pleasure  of  seeing  at  least  my 
camels  clambering  down  the  steep  declivity  leading  to  the  ford. 
But  where  were  the  porters,  and  where  was  Herr  von  Tiede- 
mann ?  Towards  six  o'clock  we  succeeded  in  ascertaining  that 
the  column  had  marched  round  the  ford,  and  must  be  already 
at  a  considerable  distance  to  the  west  of  us.  The  chief  loads 
belonging  to  my  tent  were  with  it— my  camp  bed  and  my 
blankets.  Whether  I  liked  it  or  not,  .1  had  to  make  up  my 
mind  to  do  without  those  articles  for  that  night.  But  the  prin- 
A  disagree-  cipal  task  was  to  put  myself  into  communication  with 
able  nigbt.  ^j^g  ^j^^gf  columu  that  same  evening.  I  therefore  sent 
some  reliable  people  behind  the  main  body  of  the  column,  and. 


THE  FALL   OF  NOGOLA.  171 

according  to  my  custom,  set  fire  to  the  bush  forest  on  a  hill  to 
the  westward  of  us.  At  ten  o'clock  I  had  the  satisfaction  of 
hearing  a  few  dropping  shots  in  the  distance,  and  soon  after- 
wards several  of  the  porters  appeared  with  my  private  luggage, 
which  Herr  von  Tiedemann  had  sent  to  me  for  the  night.  Now 
at  least  each  of  us  knew  where  the  other  was  encamped,  so  that 
there  was  no  difficulty  about  our  meeting  the  next  morning,  as 
I  had  directed  Herr  von  Tiedemann  to  defer  his  departure  until 
I  joined  him. 

Thus,  as  early  as  five  o'clock  next  morning,  we  broke  up 
towards  the  south-west,  and  at  about  half-past  seven  I  met  Herr 
von  Tiedemann,  who  with  his  column  was  waiting  for  uogoia's 
me,  in  readiness  to  march.     Nogola,  who  was  to  blame  misbehavi- 

our  and 

for  the  mishap,  had  meanwhile  been  enjoying  himself  punish- 
over  my  guinea-fowl.  Perhaps  he  had  only  led  the  ™*" ' 
column  round  the  ford  at  which  I  was  encamped,  to  accom- 
plish this  in  all  quietness  of  mind.  But  the  matter  had  a  bad 
ending  for  him.  I  administered  an  emetic  to  make  him  give  up 
the  stolen  goods  as  far  as  practicable,  and,  in  addition,  caused 
him  to  receive  twenty-five  lashes,  which  were  duly  counted  out 
to  him  in  the  presence  of  all,  as  a  warning  and  a  lesson  to  the 
whole  community.  The  impudent  fellow  was,  in  addition,  put 
in  chains  for  the  rest  of  the  day.  From  that  time  his  position 
in  the  caravan  sank  rapidly  ;  and  he  did  not  recover  it  to  the 
day  of  his  death,  which  happened  on  the  22nd  of  the  following 
December. 

On  October  31st  I  pitched  my  camp  in  a  glorious  wood  by 
the  Tana  river.  On  that  day  I  had  repeatedly  met  Wandorobbos 
on  the  road,  and  I  invited  them  to  visit  me,  and  to  bring  wandorobbo 
me  sheep  for  sale.  In  spite  of  all  that  had  happened,  i'lsoience. 
the  whole  set  of  them  were,  and  remained,  brazen  and  impudent. 
When,  on  the  march,  I  took  hold  of  one  of  these  people  with  my 
crooked  stick  by  one  of  the  earholes  that  hung  down  to  his 
shoulders,  because  he  would  not  come  on,  he  tried,  in  return,  to 
seize  me  by  the  ears  too.  But  as  we  sat  at  table  the  chief  of 
the  Wandorobbo  appeared  in  my  camp.  This  was  reported  to 
me  in  my  tent.     I  rose  from  the  dinner  table,  and  went  out  to 


172  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

him  to  ask  him  where  the  sheep  were,  that  I  had  ordered.  He 
replied  that  the  sheep  would  come  on  the  morroM'  or  the  day 
Visit  from  after.  Now  this,  it  will  he  allowed,  is  very  cold  com- 
the  Wan-  jf-^j.^  when  one  has  a  hungry  column  to  provide  for, 
chief,  and  has  oneself  hardly  meat  enough  left  for  one  day. 
Consequently,  I  explained  to  the  Sultan  that  this  delay  was  not 
according  to  my  wish,  as  I  proposed  to  march  forward  the  next 
day,  and  that  he  must  remain  in  the  camp  until  his  trihe  fur- 
nished the  sheep.  Hereupon  on  a  sudden  he  raised  his  loud 
.   war-howl,  like  the  cry  of  the  jackal ;  and  in  a  moment 

Attack  with  ^  u  ' 

poisoned  the  poisoued  arrows  of  the  Wandorobbo  came  flying 
arrows.  ^^^^  ^^^,  camp  from  every  direction.  One  of  them  struck 
into  my  trousers,  and  was  within  an  ace  of  killing  me.  I  at  once 
had  the  Sultan  knocked  down,  and  fettered  ;  then  took  him 
by  the  ears,  and  shoved  him  in  front  of  me,  as  a  kind  of  shield, 
towards  the  shooting  Wand orobbos.  I  forbade  my  people  to  fire 
on  these  people,  as  I  wished  to  have  peace  with  them. 

As  they  did  not  like,  of  course,  to  shoot  at  their  Sultan, 
they  were  obliged  also  to  pause ;  and  by  signs,  with  the  help  of 
a  few  broken  words  of  their  language,  I  contrived  to  announce 
A  peace  to  the  Sultau,  and  through  him  to  his  people,  that  if 
patched  up.  |jy  ^j^g  evening  they  brought  me  five  sheep  and  four 
donkeys,  I  would  deliver  up  their  Sultan  to  them,  and  give 
them  stuifs  for  clothes.  This  treaty  was  sealed  before  the  people 
by  my  spitting  several  times  at  the  Sultan,  while  he  spat  at  me  ; 
and  the  Wandorobbos  withdrew  to  bring  the  ransom  for  their 
chief,  who  remained  with  me.  Quite  friendly  relations  were 
established  in  the  course  of  the  afternoon  between  myself  and 
him ;  and  when,  in  the  evening,  no  donkeys,  indeed,  but 
eight  sheep  made  their  appearance,  I  presented  the  chief  and 
several  of  his  principal  men  with  red  clothing  material,  and 
dismissed  them,  unharmed,  to  their  people. 

Next  morning  I  expected  to  see  the  Wandorobbo  once  more, 
Expiora-  ^ccordiug  to  agreement  made  on  the  previous  evening, 
tions  along  to  buy  more  meat  from  them.     Not  to  let  the  time 

the  Tana.  -i     i     •  •       i 

until  their  arrival  pass  by  unused,  I  went  with  Hussein 
Fara  and  Rukua  along  the  upward  course  of  the  Tana,  to  find 


FALLING  INTO  A    TRAP.  173- 

out  if  there  were  a  way  for  the  camels,  in  the  immediate  neigh- 
bourhood of  the  river,  h}^  which  I  might   escape  the   tiring 
devious  road  through  the    steppe,  as  I  should  have  to  come 
back  to  the  river  in  the  evening.     After  a  reconnaissance  of 
two  or  three  hours,  we  ascertained,  to  our  discomfiture,  that 
there  existed  no  such  way  along  the  river,  as  the  rocks  here 
began  to  offer  a  steep  descent  towards  the  rushing  Tana.     I 
returned  to  the  camp,  and  was  just  passing  through  the  dry 
bed  of  an  affluent  from  the  south,  which  poured  its  waters  into 
the  Tana  during  the  rainy  season — we  were  in  the  middle  of  this 
watercourse — when  suddenly  nearly  a  hundred  figures  of  Wando- 
robbo  sprang  up  before  me  out  of  the  thicket,  with  their  Threatened 
arrows  ready  to  shoot.     I  was  going  to  withdraw  from  thl^^an^ 
these  disagreeable  neighbours  into  the  bush  on  the  other  dorobbo. 
side  of  the  river  bed,  when  Wandorobbo  rose  up  there  also,  and 
suddenly  the  side  of  the  river  towards  the  Tana  was  likewise 
lined  with  them.     I  had  managed  to  fall  into  a  trap,  and  these 
gentlemen  might  now  have  taken  their  revenge  for  yesterday. 
I  did  not,  however,  let  them  perceive  my  embarrassment,  but 
laughed  in  friendly  fashion,  and  beckoned  with  my  hand  to  ask 
them  to  wait  a  moment,  while  with  a  face  of  apparent  amuse- 
ment I  approached  a  tree  on  the  upper  side  of  the  dry  river 
course.     So  soon  as  I  had  reached  this,  I  pulled  out  my  Atemporis- 
rifle,  which  was  in  its  case,  and  made  ready  to  fire,  at  ^^^  p"^^''^- 
the  same  time  continually  waving  tufts  of  grass  in  the  air  as 
a  sign  of  peace,  this  being  apparently  everywhere  the  accepted 
international   African   form.      I   now  made   the    Wandorobbo 
understand  that  my  servant  Rukua  should  hasten  into  my  camp 
to  bring  presents  for  them;  and  that  in  return  I  expected  a 
present  of  sheep  from  them. 

Rukua  accordingly  hurried  into  camp  with  the  order  to 
bring  the  presents,  and  twelve  of  my  soldiers  besides.  As  the 
.poison  of  the  Wandorobbo  arrows,  which  they  prepare  from 
the  bark  of  a  tree,  is  immediately  fatal,  my  position  during  the 
ensuing  three-quarters  of  an  hour  was  not  the  pleasantest. 
The  Wandorobbo  continually  tried,  though  perhaps  not  with 
hostile  intentions,  to  get  nearer  to  me  ;  and  I  as  continually 


174  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

motioned  them  to  stay  where  they  were  until  the  presents  ar- 
rived. At  length  my  soldiers  appeared,  and  the  position 
arrival  of  of  affairs  was  altered.  I  placed  my  soldiers  in  a  half- 
circle  behind  me,  with  their  repeaters  prepared  ;  then  I 
put  down  my  own  rifle,  and  made  the  Sultan  of  the  Wandorobbo, 
my  friend  of  yesterday,  understand  that  he  also  should  lay  aside 
Solemn  his  ^ow  and  arrows,  and  give  me  a  personal  meeting 
agreement,  jjj  ^jjg  ^^^[[(jie  of  the  dry  river  bed.  After  we  had  spat 
three  times  at  each  other,  there  was  no  further  danger  of  an 
attack  at  this  place ;  and  we  now  arranged  that  the  Wan- 
dorobbo should  bring  ten  sheep  to  a  cleared  space  by  the  river 
above  my  camp  ;  in  return  for  which,  I  undertook  for  them 
that  they  should  be  allowed,  without  molestation  from  us,  to 
drive  their  flocks  to  water  at  the  ford,  which  I  could  command 
from  my  camp.  I  also  promised  them  some  fine  clothing  stuffs 
as  presents.  We  shook  hands  upon  it ;  on  which  occasion 
Eatifioa-  i^^ither  I  nor  the  Sultan  omitted,  as  a  sign  of  the 
tion  by  honesty  of  our  arrangements,  each  to  spit  into  his  own 
hand,  which  is,  indeed,  the  recognised  form  of  greeting 
among  friends  in  all  the  Massai  tribes.  We  spat  once  more  in 
each  other's  face,  and  thereupon  parted  good  friends,  each  going 
his  own  way. 

On  arriving  at  the  camp,  I  at  once  ordered  the  camels,  with 
Herr  von  Tiedemann,  round  the  bush  forest  into  the  steppe.  I 
would  only  wait,  with  a  part  of  my  people,  for  the  ten  sheep 
promised  by  the  Wandorobbo,  and  then  quickly  follow  the 
camels,  which  marched  but  slowly.  Accordingly,  I  betook 
myself,  with  ten  or  twelve  men,  to  the  clearing  by  the  river, 
wando-  where  the  Wandorobbo  also  appeared  immediately 
Ind  eva^j'*^°afterwards.  But  they  had  not  yet  brought  the  sheep, 
sions.  First,  we  must  eat  liver  together,  they  said,  as  a  sign 
that  our  nations,  the  Germans  at  home  and  the  Wandorobbo  in 
Murdoi,  were  at  peace,  and  then  they  would  give  me  the  ten 
TJnjus-  sheep.  The  sun  began  to  burn  hot ;  and,  as  the  Wan- 
encroach-  dorobbo  Commenced  taking  all  kinds  of  liberties,— 
ments.  demanding  that  I  should  show  them  my  breast,  and 
pull  off  my  boots,  with   various  other  jests   of  the   kind, — I 


DEALINGS   WITH  THE   WANDOROBBO.  175 

became  considerably  angry,  because  I  had  no  inclination  to 
creep  through  among  these  tribes,  in  the  clowning  manner  of 
Thomson.  Accordingly,  I  forbade  their  bold  proceedings  in  a 
sufficiently  rough  tone,  and  sent  them  away  with  the  injunction 
to  bring  the  sheep  at  once,  or  I  should  no  longer  recognise  our 
■compact  of  the  morning. 

My  humour  became  none  the  more  rosy  when  I  suddenly 
saw  the  camels  come  marching  back  from  the  side  of  the  river. 
Herr  von  Tiedemann  had  not  found  any  road.  It  was  plain, 
accordingly,  that  I  must  remain  to-day  in  the  same 

1  ITT  f  -I  r.  An  enforced 

place  ;  and  i  only  transterred  my  camp  from  the  forest  encamp- 
into  the  clearing  where  I  was,  that  I  might  be  nearer  ^^'^^' 
to  watch  the  development  of  events  that  would  no  doubt  take 
place  at  the  ford.     The  tents  were  pitched,  and  I  sat  down  with 
Herr  von  Tiedemann  to  our  scanty  meal,  when  suddenly  the 
Somalis  came  rushing,  with  very  disturbed  looks,  into  the  tent, 
and  told  us  the  Wandorobbo  were  driving  an  immense  Excited 
number  of  cattle  to  the  river.      The  Somalis  always  p°^gp^^^'g  ^^ 
looked  disturbed,  when  they  saw  cattle  in  other  men's  plunder, 
hands ;  but  here  especially,  because  the  Godsend  was  so  well 
within  their  reach,  and  they  were  in  a  hungry  condition.     In 
mere  absence  of  mind  five  of  them  had  brought  twenty  kids 
into  my  camp,  which,  as  they  averred,  they  had  "found"  by 
the  river.     Inasmuch  as  such  a  manner  of  keeping  treaties  does, 
not  generally  square  with  our  German  ideas,  I  stood  up  from 
table,  and  myself  brought  the  twenty  kids  to  the  Wandorobbo  up 
the  river,  where  these  people  were  certainly  driving  herd  after 
herd  to  the  water,  and  away  again.     As  a  proof  of  my  friendly 
intentions,  I  had  only  brought  two  men  with  me,  and  for  myself 
I  had  my  six-shooting  revolver  in  my  pocket.     Now  I  ,^  ^^^^  ^^ 
had  the  clothes  stuffs  brought,  to  redeem  my  promise  city"  to  be 
with  regard  to  the  presents;  but  I  demanded,  once  more, 
that  the  Wandorobbo  should  deliver  to  me  the  promised  ten  sheep. 
With  discontented  faces  they  at  last  brought  up  five  at  their 
Sultan's  orders.    One  of  these  was  at  once  slaughtered,  Renewed 
the  liver  was  taken  out,  and  without  much  ceremony  p^*"^- 
laid  in  the  fire,  whereupon  each  of  us  received  a  piece  of  it  to 


176  XEW  LIGHT  OX  DARK  AFRICA. 

eat.     xVud  herewith  the  treaty  of  peace  was  sealed  between  the 
German  nation,  as  such,  and  the  \Yandorobbo. 

I  now  once  more  demanded  my  ten  sheep,  and  became 
somewhat  suspicious  when  I  noticed  that  the  warriors,  or 
Ehnoran,  of  the  Wandorobbo  began  to  snigger,  and  that  some 
figures  posted  themselves  near  me,  on  the  left,  in  the  bush. 
The  Wandorobbo  refused  my  pieces  of  stuff,  and  I  said  I  would 
send  to  my  camp,  and  have  a  load  of  iron  wire  brought,  which 
Measures  of  they  would  perhaps  prefer.  I  sent  Hussein  Fara  into 
aglinst"'"  the  camp  with  a  note  to  Herr  von  Tiedemann,  in  which 
treachery.  J  requested  him  to  come,  with  thirty  men,  to  our  place 
of  council,  and  ordered  the  Somalis  immediately  to  start  for 
the  dry  ford,  which  they  were  to  occupy  some  distance  up,  and, 
at  a  trumpet  signal  from  me,  to  drive  as  many  head  of  cattle 
as  they  could  get  together  into  our  camp ;  and  directly  they 
had  secured  a  herd  they  were  to  fire  a  shot,  that  I  might  know 
what  was  going  on. 

Herd  after  herd  belonging  to  the  Wandorobbo  went  away 
from  the  river  ;  when  the  last  had  quitted  the  water-side,  the 
people  suddenly  let  three  of  the  five  sheep  there  go,  so  that  only 
one  very  skinny  specimen  remained  for  me.  All  at  once  an 
Tokens  of  arrow  flew  past  my  ear.  I  coolly  rose,  and  called  out 
hostility.  J.Q  them,  "  Take  care  of  yourselves,  you  dogs !  "  and 
quietly  had  my  things  packed  up,  and  ordered  them  to  be 
carried  back  into  the  camp.  Hussein  Fara  soon  reappeared 
with  the  intelligence  that  my  orders  were  being  executed,  and 
Herr  von  Tiedemann  presently  came  marching  along  with  thirty 
men.  Now  I  suddenly  caused  the  trumpet  to  be  blown,  and 
quietly  fell  back  upon  my  camp.  When  my  people  came  hurry- 
ing up,  the  Wandorobbo  disappeared  with  one  accord  into  the 
Herr  bush.  I  requested  Herr  von  Tiedemann  to  follow  them 
m^nn'^s'^^'  through  the  clearing  and  the  dry  river  bed,  which 
position,  he  was  to  occupy  M'ith  his  thirty  men.  Then,  on  my 
side,  I  went  back  quietly  into  the  camp,  when  suddenly  the 
shot  I  was  so  anxiously  awaiting  rang  out  from  the  bush.  I 
immediately  ordered  the  people  who  had  remained  in  camp  to 
get  up  a  fence  for  the  cattle  that  Heaven  was  going  to  send  us. 


PLENTY  OF  PROVISIONS.  177 

then  sat  down  in  my  tent  to  a  cup  of  tea  and  cognac,  and  took 
up  "  Mommsen."  I  had  been  sitting  there  for  about  twenty 
minutes,  when  there  came  a  trampling  like  an  approaching 
cavalry  attack,  sheep  and  goats  jumping  along  merrily  in  a 
crowd,  and  a  donkey  also  had  "strayed"  over  to  us — soTheSomaiis 
the  Somalis  reported,  who  came  running  behind  them  u^jr^y*^,, 
in  a  state  of  enthusiastic  excitement.  The  sheep  were  ''*"'^' 
now  driven  to  the  water,  and  surrounded  by  my  people,  till  the 
fence  was  finished.  After  about  ten  minutes  came  also  Herr 
von  Tiedemann,  who  was  to  have  taken  the  Wandorobbo,  if 
necessary,  between  two  fires  ;  he  had  not  got  sight  of  one 
Wandorobbo.  He  was  naturally  highly  delighted  when  he  saw 
the  sheep. 

Now  we  settled  down  to  a  mighty  slaughtering  and  feasting. 
To  every  five  men  a  sheep  was  given,  and  to  every  two  men  a 
kid.  Joy,  jovial  dancing,  and  merry  songs  were  the  order  of 
the  day.  We  had  two  hundred  and  fifty  sheep  in  our  ^vaiuaWe 
possession,  and  with  this  there  was  an  end,  once  and'"''^- 
for  all,  of  famine  in  the  German  Emin  Pasha  Expedition.  The 
pleasurable  part  for  me,  in  the  occurrences  of  this  day,  was 
that,  in  the  first  place,  no  human  blood  had  been  spilt,  and, 
secondly,  that  I  felt  myself,  morally,  entirely  in  the  right  in 
the  measures  I  had  put  in  action. 

In  the  night  I  had  the  camp  well  watched,  and  now  and 
then  I  ordered  rockets  to  be  thrown  up  over  the  bushes.  But 
these  measures  of  precaution  proved  to  be  superfluous.  The 
Wandorobbo,  who,  as  I  heard  from  Wakamba,  were  under 
belief  that  the  fiend  himself  had  personally,  and  with  a  great 
following,  appeared  in  their  land  and  among  them, — to 
which  conclusion  they  were  brought  especially  by  the  contem- 
plation of  my  broad-brimmed  flapped  hat,  and  also  probably 
of  the  black  shining  spectacles  in  which  I  was  accustomed  to 
appear  at  the  conferences— vanished  in  the  darkness  of  night, 
going  down  stream  with  their  herds.  I  never  set  eyes  upon 
them  afterwards. 

Next  morning  I  wished  to  cross  the  Tana  at  this  place,  as 
Herr  von  Tiedemann  shared  the  opinion  with  the  Somalis,  that 

12 


178  XEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

outside  the  bush  forest  there  was  no  road  up  the  stream,  on 
the  right  bank  of  the  Tana.  For  that  reason  I  caused  my 
people  to  go  through  the  river,  which  was  very  broad  here,  in 
The  Tana ;  the  early  morning,  to  ascertain  if  it  was  fordable  for 
tion'lT^'  us  at  this  spot.  Strangely  enough,  from  the  earliest 
lords.  morning  this  November  2nd,  a  continuous  rising  of 
the  Tana  occurred,  so  that  already  in  the  afternoon  the  whole 
sandy  cleared  space  by  the  brink,  where  the  negotiations  of  the 
former  day  had  taken  place,  was  under  water,  and  in  the  night 
the  Avater  penetrated  into  our  camp.  My  people  lost  all  relish 
for  working  in  the  Tana,  on  the  sudden  approach  of  a  row  of 
suspicious  dark  objects,  which  were  soon  identified  as  so  many 
crocodiles.  I  was  able,  indeed,  to  scare  these  creatures  away 
from  the  surface  with  bullets  from  my  rifle,  but  hardly  altogether 
to  banish  them  from  the  vicinity. 

So  from  nine  o'clock  I  devoted  myself,  with  entire  zeal,  to 
constructing  a  raft,  for  which  I  made  my  people  bring  fifty 
trunks  of  trees,  as  uniform  in  size  as  possible.  Towards  twelve 
o'clock  the  raft  was  finished ;  but  when  I  made  the  attempt, 
Attem  ^^^^  quite  alone,  to  trust  myself  to  the  currents  with 
cross  with  it,   the  heavy  wood  sank  beneath   the   surface.     The 

a  raft  . 

trial  resulted  in  complete  failure.  Now  there  was 
nothing  for  it,  but  to  devote  the  remainder  of  the  day  to  finding 
a  way  for  my  caravan  on  our  side  of  the  Tana.  I  sent  the 
best  of  my  people  out  on  this  business,  and  they  succeeded 
in  establishing  the  possibility  of  a  march  for  the  next  day. 
On  the  morning  of  November  3rd  we  therefore  started  with 
beat  of  drum,  always  up  hill,  up  hill,  through  bush  and  forest. 
But  still  we  made  progress,  and,  what  was  most  fortunate,  our 
flock  of  sheep  and  goats  got  forward  with  us  cheerily  enough. 
Marching  ^^^  *^^^^  herds  are  accustomed  to  nomadic  wander- 
with  the     ings,  and  must  therefore  not  be  judged  entirely  by  a 

European  standard.  From  this  time,  during  the  whole 
further  course  of  the  expedition,  I  carried  herds  along  with  me. 
Thus  the  sordid  care  for  the  body's  food  and  nourishment  was 
removed.  We  could  look  forward  with  pleasure  to  the  march, 
the  arrival  in  camp,  and  dinner,  instead  of  contemplating  with 


CHEERFUL    TIMES   OF  RECREATION.  179 

a  kind  of  horror  this  arrival,  and  the  ugly  scenes  that  would  be 
associated  with  it.  Herewith  the  advance  assumed  a  much 
more  pleasant  character.  The  heavy  wrong  the  Englishmen 
had  done  us  in  Lamu,  by  the  confiscation  of  our  articles  of 
barter,  had  in  some  degree  been  remedied  by  Providence,  and  I 
began  to  get  rid,  more  and  more,  of  the  doubt  as  to  the  definite 
accomplishment  of  my  task. 

On  this  day  I  encamped  by  a  beautiful  cataract  of  the 
Tana,  just  beneath  the  fall,  near  a  ford  of  the  river,  so  that, 
if  we  wished,  we  could  enjoy  the  refreshing  rain  of  spray  in 
front  of  our  tent.     On  the  other  side  of  the  Tana  the  Bennigsen 
chain   day  by   day  exhibited   more    imposing  forms,  cheerful 
Lovely  bush   forest  surrounded  my  camping-place,  in  oFthe* 
which  a  cheerful  busy  life  appeared,  for  the  people  ""^"it^y- 
were  now   in   good    humour,    in  consequence  of  winning   the 
herds.     On   this    day  I  again  wrote  reports  for   Germany,  in 
which  I  described  our  adventures  with  the  Wandorobbo. 

I  was  busy  with  this  task,  when  all  at  once  the  Mangema 
Barakka,  surrounded  by  his  followers,  came  rushing  into  my 
tent  with  loud  howls.  My  people  were  accustomed  regularly 
to  fill  up  the  afternoon  hours  with  fishing.  Barakka  also  had 
drawn  forth  with  the  hook  from  the  cooling  flood  a  ^     , , 

^  Barakka's 

great,  a  very  great,  inhabitant  of  the  Tana.     But  the  formidable 
fish,  taking  the  joke  in  evil  part,  had  bitten  Barakka 
soundly  in  the  finger.     \Yhen  a  black  man  sees  blood  he  thinks 
it  his  duty  to  howl,  and  the  people  were  very  much  astonished 
at  my  not  taking  the  affair  tragically  ;  and  it  was  certainly  not 
tragic,  for  a  little  chloride  of  iron  suflSced  to  stop  the  bleeding. 
In  the  night  a  heavy  storm  drew  up,  the  rolling  thunder 
mingling  harmoniously   with  the  sound  of  the  waterfall — the 
first  practical  token  that  the  short  rainy  season  was  at  hand. 
The  landscape  became  more  and   more   magnificent,  g^.^ 
the  onward  sweep  of  the  Tana  more  turbulent,  ever  indications 

^  .  '        ,      of  the 

more  majestic  the  forms  of  the  mountains   and  the  rainy 
primeval   forest  that  surrounded  us.     The  Tana  here  =^^^'"'- 
rushes  downward  through  short  stretches  in  mighty  cataracts 
to  the  depths.     Terrace  after  terrace  were  we  obliged  to  climb. 


180  X!-:]]'  LIGHT   ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

Every  day  wo  mounted  more  than  three  hundred  feet.  We  were 
surrounded  by  all  the  mysterious  glamour  of  the  wilderness. 
We  were  out  of  Murdoi,  and  no  trace  of  a  human  being  was 
visible  in  the  bush  forest  we  were  traversing.  There  M^ere 
certainly  paths,  but  they  were  the  clean  tracks  the  hippopo- 
tamus makes,  and  which  always  led  back  to  the  river.  Here 
the  rhinoceros  breaks  himself  a  road  through  the  bushes, 
and  ni2:ht  after  nisht   the  lion  roars  and  the  hyena 

In  the  1  .11  1 

pathless  howls  arouiid  our  camp.  And  the  south-west  mon- 
soon, rushing  through  the  tree-tops,  shouted  the  chorus 
to  these  voices  of  the  animal  world,  and  the  Tana  growled  in 
unison,  in  such  measure  that  we  often  felt  the  rocks  on  its 
banks  trembling  under  our  feet.  A  mighty  concert  it 
animal  was  in  its  coucord  of  sounds ;  the  world  could  hardly 
ing  om.  Y\g^xQ  found  a  more  magnificent  voice.  In  memory 
these  noble  and  stately  sounds  still  echo  through  the  soul. 

On  November  4th,  as  I  was  examining  a  place  near  the 
Tana,  with  respect  to  its  accessibleness,  I  was  within  a  hair's 
breadth  of  stumbling  over  a  lion,  who,  however,  decamped  with 
The  lion  the  utmost  Speed.  This  time,  again,  I  had  not  my 
Mppopo-  ^'^fl^  ^^th  ^®'  ^^'^  could  therefore  get  no  shot  at  him. 
tamus.  This  region  on  the  Tana  swarms  with  thousands,  one 
might  almost  say  with  hundreds  of  thousands  of  hippopotami. 
They  sometimes  lay  so  crowded  together  in  the  stream  that  it 
appeared  possible  to  walk  across  to  the  other  side  of  the  river 
on  their  heads.  But  any  inclination  to  attempt  such  a  feat 
vanished  in  view  of  the  fact  that  their  good  friends  the  crocodiles 
were  present  in  equally  large  numbers,  often  lying  peaceably  near 
them  on  a  sandbank,  or  asleep  on  a  slab  of  rock  in  the  river. 
The}'  often  became  a  mark  for  my  trusty  double-barrelled  rifle, 
but  I  never  succeeded  in  killing  one  of  these  crocodiles,  though 
I  killed  several  hippopotami. 

On  November  6th,  at  eight  in  the  morning,  we  reached  the 
waterfall  Kiloluma,  where  the  road  from  Mombas  leads  through 
Ukamba  Mumoni  over  the  Tana  to  Mbe,  and  further  east,  past 
the  Kenia,  to  Lorian.*     This  place  it  was  that  led  Krapf  to 

*  I  need  scarcely  observe  that  under  tlie  term  "  caravan  road,"  a  road 


GRANDEUR   OF   THE  LANDSCAPE.  181 

assert  that  Wakamba  had  told  Mm  they  had  crossed  the  river 
Kiloluma  to  go  to  Mbe ;  to  Avhich  I  attribute  the  whole  erro- 
neous theory  of  the  tributary  river  Kiloluma  falling  j,^^^^^^^^ 
into  the  Tana.    Already  half  an  hour  before  Ave  reached  theory 
the  Kiloluma  we  could  feel  the  rocks  trembling  beneath  KiMuma 
us ;  and  in  truth,  standing  above  the  falls  and  look-  "''^''' 
ing  down  into  the  yawning  gulf  that  the  tumbling  mass  of 
waters  has  opened  there,  is  like  gazing  into  the  pit  of  hell. 
Yet  this  waterfall  is  not  by  any  means  the  greatest  on  the 
Tana  ;    we  were  destined  to  see  very  different  ones.      As  in 
most  cases,   it  appears  in  the  form  of  several  cataracts,  one 
over  another,  of  which  the  loftiest  may  be  about  eighty  feet 
high.     But  the  mass  of  waters  in  the  Tana  is  so  colossal  that 
these  falls  represent  a  force   which   I  am  unable  to  estimate 
according  to  "  horse -power,"   but   its   capacity   must  The  great 
be  enormous.     By  this  roaring  cataract  we  spent  the  cataract, 
whole  of  November  6th.     Unfortunately,  the  bridge  on  the  way 
to  Mbe,  of  which  we  still  saw  some  traces,  had  been  swept 
away  by  the  rising  waters  of  the  Tana.     We  pushed  some  of  the 
beams  down  into  the  whirlpool.     It  was  interesting  to  observe 
how  the  beam  at  first  disappeared  altogether,  and  then,  after  a 
long  interval,  reappeared  in  the  whirlpool  on  the  opposite  bank. 
It  must  have  been  five  minutes  before  it  came  to  the  surface. 
I  visited  the  principal  whirlpool  with  Herr  von  Tiedemann  and 
Hussein  Fara,  in  the  afternoon,  towards  sunset.     Hussein  Fara 
was  of  opinion  that  it  was  just  like  in  the  Somaliland,  Hussein 
an  assertion  he  was   in   the  habit  of  making  when  compari- 
anything  struck  him  as  grand.     His  exact  meaning  I  ^°^^- 
could  not  quite  understand,  as  in  the  Somali  country  there  are 
neither  such  rivers,  nor,  in  all  probability,  any  cataracts.     He 
made  the  same  observations  at  a  later  period,  when  he  came  to 
visit  me  in  Berlin,  and  lived  at  the  Kaiserhof  Hotel.     He  said 
that  was  quite  like  in  Somaliland  ! 

according  to  European  notions  is  not  to  be  understood.  It  is  a  little  track, 
running  through  the  bushes,  on  which,  every  couple  of  years  or  so,  a  Mombas 
caravan  or  a  company  of  native  Wakamba  takes  its  way.  The  "  road  "  does 
not  much  contribute  to  enliven  the  landscape. 


182  NE]V  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

Next  day  we  made  a  long  march,  and  had  throughout 
the  afternoon  to  endure  a  pelting  fall  of  rain,  which  set  in 
regularly,  and  was  repeated  almost  daily  for  the  next  month 
and  a  half.  On  this  day,  we  first  came  again  upon 
of  inhabited  traces  of  men.  My  people  thought  they  descried  in  the 
districts.  ^|jg^a^j^(.y  "shambas"  (plantations),  and  the  pleasant 
expectation  was  strengthened  in  the  afternoon  by  the  appear- 
ance of  two  Wakamba,  who  said  that  on  the  morrow  we 
should  reach  inhabited  districts. 

According  to  my  custom,  I  kept  these  visitors  in  the  camp 

through  the  night.     But  as  I  did  not  like,  on  the  following 

morning,  to  lead  them  back  to  their  countrymen  bound 

Securing  °  p  i 

the  with  cords,  they  got  away,  with  one  of  the  ^Yakamba 

a  am  a.  J  ^^^  brought  with  me  from  Murdoi,  as  soon  as  I  set 
my  column  in  motion.  On  November  7tli  I  felt  slightly  indis- 
posed, which  occasioned  me  to  take  strong  doses  of  ipecacuanha, 
and  in  a  few  hours  I  had  quite  recovered.  On  this  day  also  the 
Somali,  Daud  Wais,  fell  sick  with  dysentery,  from  which  he 
suffered  till  the  end  of  the  expedition.  The  land  we  approached 
on  the  following  morning  was,  to  my  astonishment,  not 
Ukamba,  as  I  was  obliged  to  assume  from  the  maps,  but  the 
The  land  of  land  of  Dsagga,  which  stretches  out,  in  lovely  ranges 
Dsagga.  of  noble  outline,  over  the  Tana.  The  land  is  richly 
cultivated,  and  makes  a  most  picturesque  appearance,  with 
its  little  villages,  built  in  the  Swiss  style,  and  surrounded 
with  strong  circumvallations.  It  is  situated  in  front  of  the 
Bennigsen  Mountains,  and  to  a  certain  extent  corresponds 
with  Kikuyu,  which  lies  in  front  of  the  plateau,  only  that  iu 
Kikuyu  the  mountain  chains  are  higher,  and  the  air  is  in 
consequence  still  more  pure. 

The  Wadsagga,  again,  are  Bantu,  and  closely  related  to  the 
Wakamba  and  the  Wakikuyu,  as  also  to  the  people  of  Mbe,  with 
The  Wad-  whom  they  posscss  a  common  language.  According 
sagga  trihe.  tQ  enquiries  made  by  Krapf,  the  Wakamba  are  said 
formerly  to  have  had  their  dwellings  on  the  Kilima-Ndsharo, 
and  to  have  been  driven  thence  towards  the  north  by  the 
Massais.     Perhaps  this  has  to  do  with  the  similarity  of  sound 


THE    WADf^AGGA    TRIBES. 


183 


in  the  names  Dsagga  and  Dshagga  at  the  Kilima-Ndsliaro 
The  foremost  tribes,  in  this  emigration,  made  their  way  across 
the  Tana  forward  into  a  region  which  by  those  w])o  dwelt 
behind  it  was  called  Mbere,  Mbele,  or  Mbe  (Iront).  This  is  the 
laud  that  stretches  from  Dsagga  along  the  left  bank  of  the 
Tana,  and  belongs  to  tribes  of  quite  the  same  race  as  Ukamba. 
The  Wadsasrra,  like  the  "Wakamba,  have  some-  „.  ,  , 

'~'~  .  High  Dreeding 

thing  of  high  blood   in   their  demeanour.     They  and  haughtiness 

f\f  I'll  A   ^JV Jl fl  ^ fl  P^ P* R. 

love  to  deck  themselves  in    chivalrous    st_yle,  to 
ornament  themselves  with  feathers,  and  to  wear  on  their  feet  l)its 
of  iron  which  clink  like  spurs  at  every  step. 
Their  women  are  voluptuous,  cheer- 
ful    looking     creatures,    plentifully 
adorned  with  beads  and  rings.     I'hey 
werefond  of  promenading  saucily  with 
their  adorers  in  front  of  our  encanij)- 
ment,  to  have  their  beauty  admired. 

Into  this  country  also,  no  know- 
ledge of  white  men  had  yet  pene- 
trated. I  believe  they  did  not 
know  even  Arabs  or  Wangwana. 
They  took  our  guns  for  cudgels, 
and  when  they  looked  at  our 
leet,  clad  in  high  boots,  they 
began  to  laugh  aloud  ;  for  they 
thought  we  had  thrust  our  feet 
into  donkeys'  legs  that  we 
might  marcli  the  better,  or  that  we  ourselves  had  donkeys 
leet.  On  the  declivities  of  the  charmingly-situated  laud  long 
ranges  of  ]ilantations  ai)pear,  between  which  great  herds  and 
flocks,  oxen,  sheep,  and  goats  are  pasturing  in  peaceiul  a  primitive 
smmy  groups.  The  whole  scene,  with  the  Tana  tra- '=°'"'^'^'^' y- 
versing  it,  makes  an  idyllic  impression;  and  when,  on  November 
Sth,  we  encountered  these  people  for  the  first  time,  we  thouglit 
we  had  come  upon  a  "  peaceful  shei)herd  tribe." 

This  impression  was  very   quickly  altered  when  I  entered 
into   commercial   relations    with    them  anent  the  purchase   of 


WADSAGQA. 


184 


\i:\r  LKriir  o.v  jiauk  afiuca. 


orain.     T  asked  tliem  to  I'urnish  nie  ^Yith  a  oreat  bulk  of  grain 

nt  (UK-o,  ami   in  return  I  was  ready  to  make  a  proportionate 

in'esent.    liut  as  all  monarchical  unity  was  wanting  here, 

Egotistical  ^  i  •        'i  i         t       i     • 

ideas  of      it  was  not  possible  to   eiitorce   this  deniand.      iLacn  lu- 

''''"^''         divi(hial  lirouglit  a  little  pot  or  a  little  l)nii(lle  ol'mtama, 

for  winch  he  asked  his  own  utterly  exorbitant  price.      As  1  was, 

aboye  eyeiything,  in  urgent  want  of  strong  food  for  my  riding 

hoise  and  the  camels,  I  at  last  made  short 

\^ork   of  it,   by    taking   possession    of 

he  grain  that  had  been  brought,  and 

paying  an  entirely  a(k'<|nate  price  for 

it  in   cloth.      At   this   there   arose  a 

great   outcry,   so   that,   to   ayoid   a 

l)reach    of    tht'    peace,    I    had    the 

whole   comjtaiiy   turned  out  of  the 

camp.     For   all  that,  our  relations 

coutmued  to  be  of  the  most  friendly 

kind.     TheWadsagga,  of  their  own 

accord,  proyided  a,  guide,  who  was 

to  lead  us  as  far  as  Mbe,  so  tliat  I 

could  now  dismiss,  with  rich  gifts, 

Mkamba,  whii  Avas   still  with  me ; 

antl  on  the  morning  of  Noyember 

!)th  we   went  forth,    amid   friendly 

greetings   from    all   sides,   through 

the  beautiful  land  ; — now  past  yil- 

lages  from  which  men  and  Wfjnien 

rushed  forth  to  gaze  at  ns  ;    then  on  well-kept  woodland  paths, 

upliill  and  downhill,  nntil  towards  noi.m  ayc  came  into  a  second 

district  of  the  Dsasiiia  land.     Before  we  crossed  the 

Marcn  ■- '  . 

through  the  Iron tit'r,  hundreds  of  the  Wadsagga,  who  had  now 
coun  ly.  gj.Q^yjj  (phte  confidential,  took  leaye  of  us,  and  we 
marched  into  the  second  district,  under  the  impression  that  we 
should  be  able  to  trayerse  the  whole  country  as  friends,  and 
thus  might  reach  ^Ibe  in  the  most  agreeable  manner.  Beyond 
Mbe,  we  were  told,  there  was  a  ford  of  the  riyer,  which  I 
desiy'ned  to  cross. 


WADSAC4GA. 


THREATENING   OF  A   STORM.  185 

When  I  entered  the  second  district  of  Dsagga,  b)^  way  of  a 
high  hill  that  sloped  gradually  down,  I  saw  on  the  other  side  of 
the  shore  a  great  mountain,  which  ]-emained  in  sight  The  xrupp 
as  a  landmark  for  us  for  days  afterwards.  The  Ben-  ^o^^tain. 
nigsen  chain,  which  had  run,  as  far  as  this  mountain,  in  a  south- 
south-west  du-ection,  here  deviated  a  little  towards  the  west,  and 
ran  south-west,  so  that  the  mountain  we  had  seen  stands  at  the 
angle  of  the  range.  I  decided  to  name  it  the  Krupp  Mountain, 
and  encamped  opposite  it,  at  one  in  the  afternoon,  by  a  ford 
of  the  Tana.  Presently  numerous  Wadsagga  came  in  ;  their 
insolence  of  manner,  in  communicating  with  us,  at  once  ,    , 

°  Insolence 

impressed  me  disagreeably.  I  asked  them  to  bring  of  the 
food  for  us  to  purchase,  within  an  hour  ;  but  immedi-  *  ^^^^^' 
ately  learned,  to  my  complete  astonishment,  that  one  of  my 
porters,  Ajabajir,  who  was  somewhat  unwell,  and  consequently 
had  been  marching  in  the  rear  of  the  column,  had  disappeared, 
having  probably  been  captured  by  the  Wadsagga.  To  get  at 
the  truth  of  this  I  immediately  sent  back  some  soldiers,  who 
presently  returned  bringing  me  a  confirmation  of  the  news. 

We  were  just  sitting  at  breakfast,  when  it  was  suddenly 
announced  that  the  gentlemen  Wadsagga  had  set  about  driving 
off  my  five  donkeys.     They  had  indeed  been  put  to  , 

•I  .  .        Aggression 

flight  by  prompt  action  on  the  part  of  the  Somalis  ;  and  re- 
but the  intention  of  paying  no  respect  t'O  our  rights  of 
property  was  apparent  enough.  In  this  condition  of  affairs  1 
determined  to  take  vigorous  measures,  and  replied  by  giving 
my  men  the  order  to  drive  as  many  head  of  cattle  from  the 
surrounding  pastures  into  my  camp,  as  they  could  get  posses- 
sion of  without  a  breach  of  the  peace.  The  command  was 
promptly  obeyed,  and  by  half-past  four  we  had  six  hundred 
sheep  and  about  sixty  oxen  in  the  enclosure.  The  herdsmen 
had  been  driven  away  by  a  few  shots  fired  in  the  air. 

Towards  sunset  one  of  the  patriarchal  elders  of  the  district 
came  to  the  camp,  begging  from  afar  for  peace.     As  it  ^  ^^^^_ 
seemed  hardly  possible  to  keep  the  someAvhat  unruly  seeking 
oxen  with  us  through  the  night,  I  sent  the  greater  number 
of  them  back  to  the  elder,  with  the  remark,  "He  should  have 


186  XEW  LIGHT  OX  DARK  AFRICA. 

peace."  If  he  wanted  to  treat,  he  must  come  to  me  next  morn- 
ing. In  the  morning,  accordingl)',  the  old  and  really  venerable- 
looking  man  made  his  appearance,  with  a  few  younger  warriors. 
I  took  him  to  task,  and  asked  how  the  Wadsagga  had  dared  to 
carry  off  one  of  my  people  and  to  try  to  drive  away  my  donkeys. 
I  told  him,  before  I  would  negotiate  further  with  him  he  must 
A  categoric  deliver  up  my  man,  and  that  I  further  wished  the 
demand.  ^Yadsagga  to  bring  corn  for  my  beasts  of  burden.  I 
had  already,  yesterday,  ordered  them  to  do  this,  but  not  a  grain 
had  been  voluntarily  brought  in.  The  elder  thereupon  departed, 
but  returned  about  one  o'clock  in  the  day,  when  I  was  just  re- 
turning from  an  excursion  in  the  neighbourhood ;  he  brought 
with  him  nothing  but  my  porter's  gun.  Accompanying  him 
was  a  personage,  who,  for  weeks  afterwards,  was  one  of  the 
principal  figures  in  my  expedition.  This  was  Marongo,  a  tall 
lanky  Mkamba,  who  had  come  from  Ukamba  to  Dsagga  to  buy 
beer,  with  a  little  bundle  of  things,  which  was  still  lying  in  the 
.  .  hands  of  the  Wadsagga,  and  a  mouth  that  stretched 

An  acquisi-  .  tt-      p  •      j  i 

tiou  for  the  almost  Irom  ear  to  ear.  His  lace  was  characterised  by 
a  half  crafty,  half  good-natured  expression  about  the 
eyes,  and  his  arms  swung  to  and  fro  by  his  sides,  extending 
down  almost  to  his  knees.  The  man  spoke  a  little  Kiswahali, 
and  consequently  at  once  excited  in  me  a  desire  to  secure  him 
for  my  expedition,  so  that  the  wearisome  exchange  of  broken 
words  and  pantomimic  systems  of  conversation  might  cease. 

I  gave  the  elder  one  of  my  jackets  with  red  and  white 
squares,  which  I  put  on  him  myself.  To  my  inquiry  con- 
Dr.Peters's  earning  Ajabajir,  he  replied,  he  thought  he  could 
complaint,  i^iform  me  that  the  man  was  no  longer  with  him ; 
he  had  fled  to  the  Wakamba,  but  here  was  his  rifle.  I 
informed  the  elder  that  I  did  not  believe  his  assertion,  and 
once  more  complained  that  no  grain  had  yet  come.  I  said 
I  had  wished  for  peace  with  the  M^adsagga,  but  they  seemed 
to  prefer  war.  If  that  were  so,  they  could  also  have  war. 
Then  we  sat  down  to  table,  while  the  Sultan,  with  Marongo 
and  the  Wadsagga,  remained  sitting  outside  the  tent.  Then  I 
went  and  sat  down  with  them  again,  whereupon  the  peripettia 


STRONG  MEASURES  SUCCESSFUL.  187 

of  the  whole  incident  came  quicklj-.  Suddenly  Morango 
hegan  to  talk,,  in  the  elder's  name,  of  sheep  that  I  was  to 
deliver  up.  "What  sheep?"  I  asked.  "Well,  the  sheep 
that  had  been  driven  into  my  camp  yesterday  evening." 
Thereupon  I  replied,  that  he  had  seized  Ajabajir  yesterday, 
adding,  "  And  to-day,  when  I  want  to  have  him  back,  .   ,  . 

•^  'A  plam 

you  say  that  he  has  run  away  to  the  A^  akamba.  Now  statement 
I  will  tell  you,  that  is  exactly  the  state  of  things  °  *"  ^' 
with  your  sheep.  I  am  afraid  that  your  sheep  will  also  run 
away  to  Wakamba  with  me.  If  you  bring  Ajabajir  back, 
there  can  be  a  council  held  to  decide  what  is  to  be  done  with 
the  sheep  that  are  in  my  hands.  If  you  don't  do  this,  the 
matter  will  remain  as  it  is.  We  can  even  then  part  in 
peace  if  you  wish  it.  If  you  do  not  wish  it,  you  may  do 
what  you  can."  All  at  once  the  Wadsagga  sprang  up,  seized 
their  spears,  and  hurried  out  of  the  camp. 

As  Marongo  was  also  about  to  follow  them,  I  asked  him, 
through  my  Somalis,  to  stay,  as  I  should  want  him  for  the 
further  negotiations.     After  some  resistance,  he  yielded  „ 

o  '         J  Marongo 

to  necessity  with  a  good  grace,  only  asking  that  his  submits  to 

llis  fSit^G 

bundle  should  be  obtained  for  him  from  the  Wadsagga. 
I  now  dismissed  the  Wadsagga  guides,  as  Marongo  knew  the 
way  to  Mbe,  and  at  once  sent  off  five  men  to  the  Wadsagga 
to  have  his  bundle  brought  into  my  camp.      I  had  no  fore- 
boding of  evil ;    and  as  the   sun   was    shining   hotly  down,  I 
seated  myself  in  my  tent  to   pass   my  Sunday  afternoon   in 
quiet.     All  at  once  my  people  rushed  into  the  tent,  and  an- 
nounced to  me  that  the  Wadsagga  were  attacking  our  herds, 
and  already  advancing  upon  the  camp  from  the  other  sides. 
At  the  same  moment  I  also  heard  firing  from  the  direction 
of  the  herds,   and  saw  my  embassy  of  five  men  running  in 
headlong    flight  from    the    opposite   side,    towards   the   camp. 
With  a  force  of  more  than  a  thousand  men,  the  Wad-  ^^^^^^.^  ^ 
sagga  attacked  our  camp  on  every  side.     I  entrusted  the  wad- 
Herr  von  Tiedemann  with  the  command  on  the  upper  ^*^^*' 
side  of  the  river,  and  threw  myself,  with  a  few  people,  upon 
the   enemies   who   came   crowding   up   from   the   lower    side. 


188  XE\r  LiailT   ox  DARK  AFRICA. 

Suddenly  the  \\'adsagga  came  to  understand  what  sort  of  cudgels 
our  guns  were.  A  row  of  them  came  tumbling  head  over  heels 
clown  the  hill  ;  the  others  stopped  bewildered  ;  but  as  man  after 
man  was  picked  off,  they  turned  suddenly  back,  and  took  to 
flight  wildly.  (3n  the  other  side,  also,  Herr  von  Tiedemann 
succeeded  in  making  an  end  of  the  affair,  and  in  half  an  hour 
all  was  decided.  Behind  a  hill  in  the  south-west,  the  Wadsagga 
collected  like  ants  whose  nest  has  been  destroyed.  The  sun 
was  already  low  in  the  west,  and  I  considered  it  more  prudent 
to  conclude  the  whole  affair  by  daylight,  than  to  run  the  risk 
of  being  roused  up  once  more  at  night  by  an  attack. 

Therefore  I  took  some  twenty  of  my  people,  leaving  the 
command  of  the  camp  to  Herr  von  Tiedemann,  and  determined 
to  attack  the  hill  on  which  the  Wadsagga  then  were.  Below 
the  camp,  a  deep  rain  gully  or  stream  ran  into  the  Tana.  Along 
this  we  noiselessly  crept,  as  it  went  in  the  direction  of  the 
hill  aforesaid.  But  we  must  have  been  observed ;  for  as  we 
crept  up  the  hill,  at  the  back,  it  was  suddenly  deserted.  I 
now  turned  towards  the  neighbouring  villages  of  the  Wadsagga, 
to  give  them  a  serious  lesson  before  the  night  came  on.  At 
our  approach  the  villages,  too,  were  speedily  deserted.  I 
Reprisals  Ordered  everything  that  could  be  of  value  to  us  to 
on  the  foe.  ^^g  quickly  taken  out,  and  had  six  of  these  villages 
set  on  fire,  one  after  another.  It  appeared  to  me  necessary  to 
make  the  people  understand  cest  la  guerre,  because  the  safety 
of  our  further  march  depended,  in  the  last  instance,  entirely 
upon  this.  When  the  sun  went  down,  the  glare  of  the  flames 
spread  over  the  wide  hilly  region,  plainly  discernible  from 
the  camp,  where  our  column  was  naturally  watching  these 
occurrences  with  the  keenest  interest. 

Heavily  laden,  I  returned  with  my  band  to  the  camp,  from 
which  the  other,  people  came  forth  singing  and  dancing  to 
meet  me.  I  was  able  that  night  to  feed  my  beasts  of  burden, 
The"Kii-  and  also  to  distribute  some  grain  to  the  column, 
sharo''  ^^w  the  state  of  mind  arose  more  and  more  in  my 
feeling.  camp  which  I  was  accustomed  to  call  the  "  Kupanda- 
Sharo  "  feeling.     Kupanda-Sharo,  that  is  to   say,  climber  of 


HOSTILE  DEMONSTRATIONS.  189 

mountains,  was  the  name  which  I  had  borne  from  the  beginning 
of  my  expedition,  and  which  is  now  becoming  more  and  more 
known  among  the  native  tribes.  M_v  people  had  composed 
special  songs  upon  this  name,  and  these  thej-  were  accustomed 
to  sing  upon  such  occasions  as  the  present,  especially  the 
Wanjamwesi  girls.  I  remember  how,  on  that  very  evening, 
one  of  these  girls,  as  she  husked  the  corn,  sang  a  song  of 
which  the  burden  always  was :  "  Others  have  nothing  to  eat  ; 
Kupanda-Sharo  gives  us  to  eat." 

From  this  time  I  could  count  more  and  more  on  the  com- 
pletely reliable  spirit  in  the  expedition,  at  least  among  the 
great  majority.  This  evening  I  prepared  a  spectacle  for  the 
people,  by  having  the  last  load  of  petroleum  poured  ^  grand 
over  a  dried  mimosa  bush,  and  setting  it  on  fire.  ^°^^^^- 
On  the  morning  of  this  day  one  of  the  porters'  wives  had 
given  birth  to  a  child,  and  therefore  I  had  consented  to 
encamp  for  a  day  opposite  Krupp  Mountain.  But  next  morn- 
ing before  sunrise  we  were  on  our  onward  path  towards  the 
south-west  for  Ukamba,  which  I  hoped  to  reach  the  same 
day.  Of  the  AVadsagga  at  first  nothing  was  to  be  seen.  But 
soon,  first  singly,  then  in  hundreds,  they  popped  up  on  the 
hills  to  right  and  left  of  us,  following  our  track  like  jackals, 
to  see  if  they  could  not  find  an  opportunity  to  attack  us. 
During  the  whole  marching  day  there  was  skirmishing,  and 
the  rattle  of  the  guns  never  ceased.  Unfortunately  the  Wad- 
sagga  succeeded  in  capturing  the  above-mentioned  porter's  wife, 
who  could  not  keep  up  with  us,  and  carried  her  otf  with  her 
child.  A  bloody  retribution  was  exacted  ;  but  a  loss  Rgt^ibu- 
of  this  kind,  to  a  hostile  tribe,  is  always  very  painful  ^^^^^^^l 
to  the  feelings  of  a  leader.  Whatever  villages  of  the 
\Yadsagga  could  be  reached  during  the  march  were  set  on 
fire.  At  twelve  o'clock,  the  procession  was  moving  through 
a  narrow  pass.  I  thought  the  Wadsagga  had  at  length  gone 
back,  and  therefore  galloped  my  horse  from  the  rear  to  the 
head  of  the  column,  to  find  out  a  suitable  place  for  our  camp. 
But  just  in  front  of  this  defile  the  Wadsagga  were  lying  in 
ambush,   and  were   within  a  hair's  breadth  of  succeeding  in 


190  ^'EW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

driving  off  our  herd  of  cattle.  The  attempt  only  failed  through 
the  cleverness  of  the  Somalis  in  driving  the  beasts.  The 
herd  was  made  to  rush  at  a  wild  gallop  through  the  narrow 
pass,  which  Herr  von  Tiedemann  meanwhile  covered  with  a 
few  Somalis. 

I  found  a  very  suitable  camping-place  in  a  deserted  planta- 
tion, into  which  I  threw  myself  with  my  caravan.  As  the 
Wadsagga  immediately  occupied  all  the  heights  round  about, 
I  caused  a  circuit  of  one  of  these  heights  to  be  undertaken 
by  the  Somalis,  under  the  leadership  of  Hussein.  So  soon  as 
the  volleys  from  our  repeating  rifles  flew  among  the  "Wadsagga 
from  the  rear,  causing  some  of  them  who  were  perched 
in  the  in  the  trees  to  descend  involuntarily  to  the  earth  with 
^^^^^'  unwonted  celerity,  they  abandoned  the  field  in  the  most 
violent  haste,  and  were  seen  no  more.  Only  on  the  hill  towards 
the  west,  a  company  of  Wadsagga  remained  standing  for  the 
rest  of  the  day.  After  dinner  I  myself  went  towards  this 
post ;  but  the  people  there  sent  to  ask  me  why  we  were  always 
shooting  at  them,  inasmuch  as  they  had  no  war  against  us. 
"  Why  are  you  perched  up  there  ? "  I  called  up  to  them. 
"  Because,"  they  cried,  "  we  are  at  war  with  the  Wakamba, 
who  are  on  the  other  side  of  the  hill,  and  we  are  defending 
ourselves  against  them."  "Oh,  indeed,"  I  called  up,  "then  I 
wish  you  a  pleasant  afternoon  !  " 

With  the  Wadsagga  on  the  other  side  of  the  river  peace  was 
also  concluded  at  midday.  They  declared,  likewise,  that  they 
Peace  and  ^^^  nothing  at  all  to  do  with  the  Wadsagga  tribe  with 
fair  whom  We  were  at  war.     They  would  be  our  friends, 

and  would  show  us  the  way  to  Ukamba  next  morning. 
It  was  a  marvellously  beautiful  afternoon  that  we  passed  in  this 
plantation.  Just  like  the  mountains  of  the  Danube  between 
Passau  and  Vienna,  the  western  continuation  of  the  Bennigsen 
chain  here  stretches  along  the  stream. 

On  the  opposite  side,  up  the  stream,  mountains  extended  to 
the  Tana,  filling  me  with  a  certain  disquietude,  because  they 
threatened  to  put  new  difficulties  in  the  way  of  our  advance. 
Nevertheless,  I  still  hoped  that  I  should  succeed  in  finding 


J.\    THK    ill'lIUNI    J[(jr.\TAIXs. 


A    TOILSOME  AND  DISHEARTENING  MARCH.  191 

a  way  between  these  mountains  and  the  river;  and,  for 
the  rest,  I  depended  upon  the  knowledge  which  Marongo 
declared  he  possessed  of  the  roads  in  this  region. 
These  were  the  Mumoni  Mountains,  and  we  marched  through 
into  them  on  November  12th.  At  first  there  certainly  u'n'^e™' 
was  a  way  between  them  and  the  river  ;  but  presently  ^°^^- 
the  rocks  approached  so  closely  and  so  steeply  to  the  Tana,  that 
I  was  compelled,  whether  I  liked  it  or  no,  to  leave  the  river,  and 
betake  myself  to  the  valleys  that  slanted  into  the  mountains. 
As  I  liked  to  sleep  by  the  river,  on  account  of  the  water,  I 
turned  back  towards  it  after  a  march  of  about  three  hours  ;  and 
now  began  about  as  difficult  and  uncomfortable  a  climbing 
match  as  can  well  be  imagined.  The  mountains  then  assumed 
a  very  steep  and  precipitous  character.  They  were  covered, 
throughout,  with  thicket,  like  a  primeval  forest,  and  thorny 
bushes,  which  made  marching  very  difficult  and  painful.  It 
must  be  remembered  that  we  had  here  to  march  not  only  with 
porters,  but  with  a  column  of  camels  that  still  numbered  seven, 
and  with  many  hundred  sheep.  Sometimes  we  had  to  climb 
up  a  steep  declivity,  sometimes  to  scramble  down  an  abrupt 
descent,  and  continually  we  were  cutting  our  way  with  the  axe. 

Considerably  tired,  I  fixed  my  camp,  at  about  three  o'clock, 
in  a  less  precipitous  place,  and  gradually  gathered  the  whole 
column  about  me.  My  people  were  in  anything  but  a  cheerful 
humour,  and  their  spirits  did  not  greatly  rise,  even  when  I 
gave  them,  in  addition  to  their  regular  daily  fare,  a  number  of 
sheep  as  an  extra  present.  I  saw  well  enough  that  an  -^^^^-^^^^  ^^. 
advance  in  this  direction  was  impossible.  Throughout  vance  im- 
the  whole  afternoon  I  accordingly  caused  various  little 
excursions  to  be  organised,  to  try  in  what  direction  a  better  way 
could  be  found  for  us  ;  and  I  learned,  before  evening,  from  the 
Somali  Musa  and  my  servant  Rukua,  that  by  going  away  in  the 
first  instance  entirely  from  the  river,  in  a  south-east  direction, 
we  should  get  to  an  open  country. 

The  Tana  here  turns  more  and  more  completely  towards  the 
south,  so  that  to  all  the  difficulties  of  our  advance  was  added 
the  uncomfortable  feeling,  that  at  the  end  of  each  marching  day 


192  XEW  LIGHT  OX  DARK  AFRICA. 

of  this  kind  we  should  be  farther  from,  instead  of  nearer  to, 
our  real  goal,  the  Equatorial  Province.  Next  morning  we 
Change  of  marched  awa)^  in  a  south-easterly  direction,  therefore 
direction,  exactly  opposite  to  that  in  which  Emin  Pasha  was  to 
be  sought.  However,  by  this  means  we  got  out  of  the  primeval 
forest,  and  into  an  open  region,  though  it  was  pouring  with 
rain.  Then  I  gradually  inclined  towards  the  south,  and  then 
towards  the  south-west,  always  keeping  the  margin  of  the  wood 
at  my  right  hand. 

Towards  ten  o'clock  we  descried  some  people  at  a  distance, 
and  Marongo  informed  me  that  these  were  Wakamba  Mumoni. 
Marongo,  who  now  was  literally  of  vital  importance  to  us,  was 
usually  led  in  advance  of  the  column,  with  a  cord  round  his 
^  neck,  under  the  uuard  of  a  Somali.     He  now  begged 

Marongo  '  ~  . 

securely  to  be  allowed  to  conceal  the  cord  from  his  countrymen. 
^^^  ^  '  Accordingly,  a  handsome  cravat  was  made  for  him  out 
of  a  great  piece  of  red  stuff,  which  was  only  fastened  at  the 
back,  in  the  most  discreet  manner  possible,  to  the  cord  covered 
by  the  material.  When  this  toilet  had  been  completed, 
Marongo  beckoned  his  countrymen  to  approach,  and  informed 
them  of  my  wish  to  be  shown  a  way  through  the  mountains. 
We  enforced  the  request  by  a  present  of  stuff,  and  the  Wakamba 
at  once  put  themselves  in  motion  in  advance  of  us. 

They  were  desirous  of  showing  me  a  place  by  the  river, 
where  the  native  caravans  were  accustomed  to  cross  the  water 
to  get  to  Mbe.  I  had  already  given  them  their  advance  pay, 
but  at  every  hundred  paces  the  fellows  would  sit  down  and 
demand  a  fresh  payment  before  they  went  further.  I  had  made 
up  my  mind  to  practise  patience  in  this  country  to  the  utmost 
possible  extent,  to  get  through  peacefully  ;  but  practically  I 
could  not  help  seeing  how  impossible  it  is  to  get  on  with 
Severity  natures  like  these  negroes  without  recourse  to  cor- 
necessary  ^^^^.^^  punishment.  But  for  this  resource,  a  man  is 
negroes,  entirely  pow-erless  against  such  breaches  of  contract 
and  hindrances  of  every  kind  ;  and  for  these  people  themselves  it 
is  much  better,  if  they  are  made  clearly  to  understand  that 
lying,  thieving,  and  cheating  are  not  exactly  the  things  that 


THE  BEST  POLICY  FOR  AFRICA.  193 

ought  to  be  in  this  world,  but  that  human  societ)'  rests  upon 
a  certain  reciprocity  of  responsibility  and  service.  Beyond  all 
question,  that  is  the  manner  in  which  the  way  will  be  best  and 
most  safely  prepared  for  the  opening  up  of  Africa.  To  make 
oneself  the  object  of  insolence  of  the  natives  is  the  very  M'ay  to 
confirm  the  blacks  in  the  lowest  qualities  of  their  characters, 
and  especially  to  degrade  our  race  in  their  eyes.  The  practice 
of  undertaking  such  responsibilities,  and  then  leaving  them 
unfulfilled,  under  all  manner  of  pretexts,  is  always  founded  upon 
a  certain  under-estimation  of  the  other  party.  It  is  quite  a 
mistaken  motto  of  travellers,  that  in  Africa  one  must  learn 
patience,  and  that  no  one  who  has  not  patience  should  travel 
there.  It  certainly  is  far  more  consonant  with  our  interests 
and  with  civilisation  if  we  take  it  as  our  motto,  on  the 
other  hand,  that  we  will  impart  some  of  our  character- 
istics to  the  natives  of  Africa,  instead  of  simply  truckling  to 
their  faults.  The  great  principle  that  makes  itself  j^^^.^^  ^^  ^^^ 
felt  through  the  universe,  even  in  inorganic  nature,  is  shown  and 

.        .  ...         enforced 

the  principle  of  unlimited  justice.     But  this  principle 
is  quite  as  much  disregarded  when  the  black  man  is  allowed 
to  overreach  the  white  man,  as  in  the  opposite  case.     During 
the  whole  time  of  my  leading  the  expedition   I  was   always 
conscious  of  acting  upon  this  principle. 

In  the  middle  of  the  day,  between  one  and  two  o'clock,  we 
at  length  came  upon  a  high  hill,  with  a  very  steep  declivity 
towards  the  Tana,  down  which  the  column  was  led  with  much 
trouble,  to  the  ford  designated  by  the  Wakamba.  Here  we  found 
cooking  stones  and  other  signs  of  the  camping  of  caravans 
and  expeditions.  At  this  place  the  Wakamba  entered  into 
commercial  relations  with  the  people  of  Mbe.  But  at  that 
time  the  Tana  was  so  high  that  the  carrying  across  of  the 
porters  with  their  loads  was  not  to  be  thought  of.  Abortive 
much  less,  even,  the  transport  of  the  cattle.  On  ^^^^Xe*"" 
that  day  four  attempts  were  made  to  find  a  suitable  ^a^i*- 
place,  but  they  all  failed.  The  Wakamba  told  us  that  expedi- 
tions often  had  to  wait  here  for  many  months  till  the  river  had 
subsided.     That  is  just  the  way  of  the  black  men.     Instead  of 

13 


194  KEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

buckling  all  together  to  the  work  of  making  an  ordinary  boat, 

they  will  wait  for  half  a  year  until  the  river  has  gone  clown.     I 

was  now  compelled,  willingly  or  unwillingly,  to  continue  my 

march  on  the  right  bank. 

In  laboriousness  and  in  lack  of  result  our  next  march  was 

quite  equal  to  that  of  the  previous  day.     It  was  always  up  hill 

and  down  hill,  through  primeval  underwood,  where  only  the  axe 

could  make  something   like  a   path.     It   was,  in   truth,  very 

depressing,  especially  when  the  ultimate  object  of  the  journey 

„   ^^        was  considered.     Whither  would  the  Tana,  thus  run- 
Doubts         .  .  ' 

as  to  the  ning  continually  southward,  ultimately  lead  us  ?  There 
was  something  ridiculous  in  the  idea  of  journeying  in 
a  direction  just  opposite  to  the  goal  of  the  journey,  merely 
because  it  was  impossible  to  cross  a  particular  river.  It  recalled 
to  the  mind  certain  campaigns  of  the  Turks  south  of  the 
Danube.  I  began  to  consider,  more  and  more  seriously, 
whether  it  would  be  well  to  devote  a  few  days  to  throwing  a 
bridge  across  the  river. 

On  November  14th  I  encamped  on  a  small  clearing  in  the 
forest,  and  here  we  were  very  agreeably  surprised,  in  the  even- 
ing, by  the  visit  of  about  a  hundred  Wakamba  to  our  camp.  If 
any  one  could  do  it,  they  were  the  people  to  help  us  out  of  the 
disagreeable  position  in  which  the  expedition  then  was.  More- 
over, they  declared  their  readiness  to  do  this,  and  asserted  that 
we  should  soon  come  to  the  end  of  the  mountains.  On  the 
Advice  of    ^^"^ic6  of  these  Wakamba,  I  marched  entirely  away 

kaLbl*"  ^'^°™'  ^^^  ^'^^^^'  ^^^^  *°  *^®  ^^^*'  *^^^  ^°  *^^  south- 
east, afterwards  to  the  south,  and  gradually  towards 
the  south-west  and  west.  On  that  day  we  absolutely  made  a 
circular  movement,  and  though  marching  over  more  than  seven 
miles  of  surface,  we  were  only  some  1,100  yards  from  our  old 
camping-place  when  we  halted  in  the  afternoon.  I  was  once 
more  led  by  the  Wakamba  to  a  place  where  the  Tana  was  wide, 
and  where,  according  to  their  assertion,  the  people  of  Mbe  crossed 
the  river  in  the  dry  season.  Here  I  determined  to  make  an 
attempt  to  get  across,  or,  as  we  were  pleased  to  call  it,  I  resolved 
"  to  force  the  Tana."' 


A   DIFFICULT  TASK.  195 

Hemmed  in  between  the  river  and  the  mountain  range, 
•with  its  thick  growing  wood,  I  had  a  lengthened  encampment 
made  here.  With  the  help  of  Marongo  and  of  the  Wakamba 
who  accompanied  me,  I  put  myself  at  once  in  com-  communica- 
naunication  with  Mhe  people  on  the  other  side  of  the  *i.'"^,y,'t'i 
river.  I  oiiered  them  rich  presents,  cattle  and  stuffs,  people, 
if  they  would  transport  me  and  my  whole  expedition  across  the 
Tana.  The  conversation  is  here  carried  on  by  the  natives  on 
the  opposite  banks  in  a  very  remarkable  manner.  They  speak 
with  voices  hardly  raised,  and  yet  each  side  can  perfectly  hear 
what  the  other  says.  Every  sentence  is  answered  by  the  cry  of 
"  eh  !  "  in  token  that  it  has  been  understood.  We  found  just  the 
same  practice  afterwards  in  Kikuyu,  Kamasia,  and  Elgejo. 

As  the  Tana  was  altogether  too  high  to  be  crossed  by  wading, 
I  resolved,  in  order,  in  the  first  place,  to  establish  a  communica- 
tion with  the  opposite  shore,  to  get  a  rope  on  to  an  island  lying 
opposite,   which  was  only  separated  from  the  further  The  pro- 
bank  by  a  narrow  arm  of  the  river,  which  did  not  seem  ^lf^-°^ 

J  '  crossing" 

likely  to  present  many  difficulties.  The  Mbe  people  the  river, 
professed  themselves  ready  to  help  us,  and  already  in  the  after- 
noon they  contrived,  by  wading  up  to  their  shoulders  in  the  water, 
to  reach  the  island  from  the  opposite  side.  There  was  a  second 
declivity  about  fifty  yards  above  the  island  on  our  side  of  the 
river.  From  this  point  I  made  attempts  the  whole  afternoon  to 
reach,  from  our  own  bank,  the  island  lying  below.  In  the  course 
of  these  attempts  Hussein  at  one  time  was  caught  in  the  rapids, 
and  shot,  swift  as  an  arrow,  down  the  Tana  and  past  the  rapids, 
so  that  I  feared  for  his  life  ;  but  by  exerting  his  utmost  strength 
he  contrived  to  regain  the  right  hand  shore.  At  last  the 
Somali,  Omar  Idle,  managed  to  reach  the  island,  soomaridie's 
that  he  could  hail  the  Mbe  people  from  thence.  But  ^^p^"^'- 
this  brought  us  little  practical  advantage.  On  this  first  day  I 
had  also  acquired  a  complete  knowledge  of  the  characteristics  of 
the  water  at  this  place,  and  I  decided,  on  the  following  morning, 
to  proceed  with  the  building  of  a  great  raft,  which  I  intended  to 
have  strongly  secured  with  ropes,  and  then  to  draw  to  and  fro 
between  our  side  and  the  little  island  lying  lower  down  near 


196  XEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

the   opposite   bank,  and   thus   to   get   the   column   across   in 
sections. 

My  people  worked  with  perfect  zeal,  as  I  had  promised 
rewards  ;  and  a  raft  about  six  times  as  large  as  the  one  we  had 
made  at  Murdoi  was  constructed  in  the  course  of  the  day.  At 
the  same  time  I  made  the  attempt  to  draw  a  rope 
Ind  the  across  to  the  island,  by  which  the  people  might  swing 
^°^^'  themselves  over,  and  their  packages  also.  With  their 
utmost  strength  the  best  swimmers  of  the  expedition,  among 
whom  was  Herr  von  Tiedemann,  toiled  to  reach  the  island  with 
the  rope.  Either  each  fastened  it  round  his  breast,  which  was 
important  as  preventing  them  from  being  carried  down  into  the 
whirlpool,  or  two  persons  took  hold  of  it,  to  reach  the  island 
with  it  by  swimming.  But  directly  they  were  a  certain  distance 
from  the  island,  the  strong  current  swept  man  and  rope  on  one 
side,  or  drew  them  under  the  surface. 

Meanwhile  the  Tana  was  continually  sinking.  I  had  made 
a  measuring  rod,  which  I  fastened  in  the  river,  and  by  which  I 
The  river  could  accurately  gauge  the  height  of  the  water.-  As 
falling.  ^Yie  river  had  fallen  about  one  foot  in  the  night  between 
November  16th  and  17th,  I  continued  the  attempts  with  the 
rope.  At  the  same  time  I  caused  the  Mbe  people  on  the 
opposite  side  to  be  asked  to  show  us  a  place  where  the  Tana  was 
narrow,  and  where  we  might  hope  to  throw  a  bridge  across  the 
river.  They  said  that  there  was  such  a  place  a  little  way  higher 
up.  I  sent  a  few  people  there ;  and  when  they  came  back  and 
reported  that  a  bridge  seemed  possible  in  that  place,  at  noon  I 
gave  up  the  attempt  to  reach  the  island  by  the  rope,  inspected 
the  place  proposed  for  the  bridge,  and  decided,  as  the  scheme 
of  the  raft  must  always  be  exceedingly  dangerous,  on  account 
of  the  rushing  current  and  the  heavy  woods,  to  proceed  with  the 
construction  of  the  bridge  instead. 

The  usual  method  of  building  bridges  of  this  kind  in  Africa 
is  by  pushing  forward  heavy  piles  on  both  sides  into  the  river, 
as  far  as  the  current  will  allow.  The  piles  are  then  fastened 
together  by  cross  beams,  and  over  these  long  slender  trees  are 
stretched  across,  the  thrust  being  always  from  below  upward. 


BUILDING  A   RIVER  BRIDGE.  197 

"When  beams  can  no  longer  be  used,  the  wort  is  continued  with 
hurdle  work,  tier  upon  tier  being  pushed  forward  as 
far  as  the  supporting  power  of  the  wood  will  bear.     If  tuiid  a 
this  hurdle  work,  which  is  pushed  forward  from  both  ^"*^*' 
sides  at  the  same  time,  does  not  suffice,  the  last  space  is  spanned 
by  tough  ropes  made  of  the  bark  of  trees.     In  this  manner  a 
bridge  is  produced,  unsteady,  indeed,  but  strong  in  itself,  if  the 
supports  are  able  to  stand  against  the  current. 

My  people,  assisted  by  the  Mbe  men,  worked  with  the 
greatest  energy  and  with  truly  heroic  exertion  at  this  bridge, 
from  November  I8th  to  the  22nd.  On  the  21st  the  wattles  had 
been  pushed  so  far  forward  on  each  side  that  only  a  Energetic 
space  of  about  fifteen  feet  remained  to  be  joined  by  operations, 
ropes.  In  the  afternoon  three  such  ropes  were  drawn  from  one 
side  to  the  other.  The  whole  hung  down,  indeed,  somewhat 
close  to  the  surface  of  the  water,  but  I  determined  that  when  the 
ropes  had  been  bound  together  by  a  cross-plaiting,  I  would  have 
a,  fencing  made  on  either  side  to  keep  my  people  from  being 
drawn  into  the  current.  Of  course  I  could  not  have  the  smaller 
animals  driven  across  such  a  bridge,  but  each  one  had  to  be 
carried  across  separately.  But  as  a  row  of  porters  could  be 
posted  for  this  duty,  to  pass  the  sheep  and  goats  from  hand  to 
hand,  and  as  this  had  only  to  be  done  across  the  middle  space 
of  the  bridge,  it  only  involved  the  expenditure  of  a  few  hours' 
time. 

On  the  21st,  at  night,  I  went  to  bed  in  the  firm  hope  that 
on  the  morrow  the  bridge  could  be  completed,  and  the  passage 
•effected.  We  had  had  the  great  good  fortune,  that  since  the 
beginning  of  the  building  of  the  bridge  the  rain  had  suddenly 
ceased ;  a  fact  the  Wakamba  attributed  to  my  magic  power. 
But  in  the  evening,  on  the  21st,  I  saw  with  disquietude  completion 
that  the  whole  western  horizon  was  covered  with  thick  of  the 
clouds.  Still,  next  morning,  the  bridge  was  completely 
above  the  water,  though  the  Tana  had  risen  somewhat  in  the 
night.  Evidently  there  had  been  rain  higher  up.  At  seven 
o'clock  I  went  to  where  the  bridge  was  building,  and  found  my 
workmen  zealously  employed  in  filling  up  the  last  gaps.     Six 


198  XEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

ropes  had  been  drawn  across  ;  and  through  these,  cross-piece 
after  cross-piece  of  wood  was  twisted,  and  firmly  attached  to 
the  ropes.  Over  the  cross-pieces  other  pieces  were  to  be  bound 
lengthwise,  and  the  whole  was  to  be  finally  secured  by  a  strong 
paling  at  the  sides.  The  cross-pieces  were  laid  down,  and  at 
nine  o'clock  I  returned  to  the  camp,  and  gave  orders  to  prepare 
everything  for  crossing  at  eleven. 

I  retired  into  my  tent  for  an  hour  to  do  some  writing,  when 
all  at  once  my  attention  was  drawn  to  a  wonderful  rustling  and 
splashing  in  front  of  it.  Looking  out,  I  found  that  the  Tana 
had  suddenly  risen  to  the  entrance  of  my  tent.  I  hastened 
Eising  of  towards  my  bridge.  The  whole  bottom  of  the  valley, 
the  waters,  ^hich  until  then  had  been  partly  dry,  was  under  water. 
People  from  the  bridge  itself  came  hurrying  towards  me.  The 
bridge  had  been  torn  away  and  carried  down  the  stream,  the  spite- 
ful river  having  thus  destroyed  in  a  moment  the  arduous  work  of 
six  days.     In  half  an  hour  the  Tana  had  risen  about  four  feet. 

By  the  carrying  away  of  the  bridge,  my  people,  who  had 
been  at  work  on  the  other  side  of  the  river,  were  suddenly  cut 
off  from  us  ;  and  as  they  had  no  weapons  they  were  actually  in 
Our  work-  danger  of  their  lives.  By  the  most  strenuous  exertions 
men  cut  off.  Qyj.  brave  Somali,  Mahomed  Ismail,  at  length  suc- 
ceeded, after  several  useless  attempts,  in  getting  a  rope  across, 
and  fastening  it  on  the  other  side,  so  that  I  could  draw  the 
people  over  to  me. 

To  keep  up  the  spirits  of  the  caravan,  I  now,  in  spite  of  our 
failure,  distributed  rewards  to  the  most  diligent  of  our  people 
for  the  work  they  had  done  in  the  bridge-building,  and  com- 
mented on  the  whole  affair  rather  from  the  humorous  point  of 

Change  of  ^^^^"  ^  ^^^°  ^*  °^'^®  despatched  a  column  up  the 
plan  of  river,  to  settle  on  a  path  for  the  march  of  the  following 
morning.  But  I  felt  very  heavy  at  heart  as  I  returned 
to  my  camp,  for  again  we  were  to  encounter  all  the  misery  of  a 
march  through  the  forest  in  a  direction  that  was  turned  away 
from  the  goal  of  our  journey  ;  and  I  did  not  even  know  whither 
this  march  would  ultimately  lead  us,  as  the  position  of  the 
source  of  the  Tana  was  as  yet  unknown  to  me. 


PERSEVERANCE   UNDER  DIFFICULTIES. 


199 


In  the  afternoon  the  river  suddenly  began  to  fall  again,  and 
once  more  the  delusive  hope  played  around  me,  as  I  had  once 
set  my  heart  upon  it,  that  I  should  cross  the  Tana  after  all,  and 
get  rid  of  it.  The  follo^Ying  morning  I  started  for  a  reconnais- 
sance down  the  river,  and  discovered  a  place  where,  from  our 
side,  great  blocks  of  rock  projected  for  about  a  third  into  tlie 
narrower  river,  while  on  the  opposite  side,  as  I  was  Another 
assured  by  the  Mbe  people,  who  were  proceeding  '='^'^°'=^- 
ixirallel  with   me  on  the   other  shore,  a   flat   sandbank  thrust 


BUILDINC4   THE    BeIDGB   ACROSS  THE   TANA. 

itself  into  the  waters.  In  the  midst,  the  water  was  naturally  all 
the  deeper,  and  roared  along  with  enormous  power  ;  but  this 
si)ace  only  comprised  about  thirty  feet,  and  it  might  be  assumed 
that  it  could  be  bridged  over  with  hurdle  work  and  ropes. 

I  will  pass  in  silence  over  the  labours  of  the  next  days.  On 
the  evening  of  November  25th  I  once  more  believed  that  we 
should  be  "able  to  cross  the  river  on  the  morrow.  Herr  von 
Tiedemann  was  unwell  on  that  day,  and  I  sat  alone  in  front  of 
my  tent.  On  this  evening  I  enjoyed  the  strange  spectacle  of 
beholding,  not  indeed  the  setting  of  the  moon,  but  rather  the 


200  NEW  LIGHT  OX  DARK  AFRICA. 

rotation  of  the  earth,  in  a  manner  I  had  never  before  expe- 
rienced. The  moon  stood  like  an  immovable  point,  exactly 
on  the  horizon,  in  an  atmosphere  that,  above  the  Tana, 
optical"^*  had  been  completely  cleared  by  thunderstorms.  When  I 
delusion,  g^^^  ^y  ^y^g  steadily  upon  it  I  saw,  not  by  any  means 
the  moon  moving  away,  but  the  earth  turning  upward,  like  a 
huge  balloon,  from  west  to  east,  whereby  the  moon  disappeared 
from  my  view. 

Towards  nine  o'clock  heavy  masses  of  cloud  drew  up  from 
the  west,  and  soon  the  crashing  of  thunder  and  the  glare  of  the 
lightning  became  incessant,  while  plashing  rain  poured  down 
on  us  like  a  deluge.  My  people  were  some  of  them  crying  out 
in  the  midst  of  the  tiood,  and  I  experienced  a  downright  feeling 
of  shame  to  think  I  should  be  lying  dry  in  my  tent,  while  out- 
side all  were  roused  up  in  wild  confusion,  and  had  to  suffer. 

With  dismal  forebodings  I  went  next  morning  to  the  place 
where  the  bridge  stood.  The  river  had  risen  again  five  feet 
during  the  previous  night,  and  I  could  see  already,  from  a  dis- 
tance, that  the  bridge  was  entirely  below  the  surface  of  the 
water ;  it  Avas  only  on  the  opposite  side  that  some  of  the  beams 
Failure  of  ^tood  forth.  Like  Frederick  the  Great  at  the  battle  of 
the  bridge.  Kolliu,  I  was  ready,  as  I  could  not  induce  any  of  my 
people  to  go  across  to  the  other  side,  to  throw  myself  alone  on 
the  rope  into  the  raging  current.  But  so  soon  as  I  reached  the 
furthest  point  of  the  rock,  and  heard  the  roaring,  howling,  and 
hissing  of  the  floods,  I  understood  that  any  attempt  of  the  kind 
would  be  constructive  suicide  ;  and  I  at  once  gave  the  order  for 
breaking  up  the  camp  and  resuming  the  march  down  the  margin 
of  the  river. 

In  half  an  hour  the  expedition  was  on  the  march,  with  beat 
of  drum,  and  the  black,  white,  and  red  flag  displayed  in  the  van. 
I  was  the  last  in  the  camp,  and  stood  there  with  very  peculiar 
A  day  of  feelings.  "  Idly  gazing  and  astounded,  seeth  he  his 
misfortTines.  ^^Qj.]jg  destroyed."  *  I  ordered  them  to  saddle  my 
horse.     But  my  horse,  dead  beat  from  the  rain  deluge  of  the 

*  From  Schiller's  "  Lay  of   the  Bell  " — describing  the   impotence  of  man 
against  the  forces  of  nature. — Te. 


A   RIVER  AXD  ITS   CATARACTS.  201 

last  days,  stood  with  trembling  knees,  and  when  we  tried  with 
cuts  of  the  whip  to  get  it  to  move,  it  suddenly  sank  to  the 
ground  with  half-extinguished  eyes.  So  I  had  to  part  from  the 
faithful  beast,  and  pursue  my  way  with  the  wanderer's  staff  in 
my  hand. 

The  march  soon  led  through  a  high  leafy  wood,  always  up 
hill,  till  towards  eleven  o'clock  we  were  about  five  hundred  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  river,  and  now  looked  straight  down  upon 
the  current.  What  a  magnificent  view  was  displayed  before  us  ! 
Below  our  feet  the  river  poured  down  a  glorious  cataract,  and 
we  heard  the  roaring  of  this  fall  in  all  its  majesty.  Looking 
towards  the  north-east,  the  eye  wandered  for  a  long  distance 
over  the  rapids  below  the  fall,  and  like  a  silver  thread  the  Tana 
wound  its  way  through  the  rocks,  that  reared  their  heads  in  bold 
outline,  and  the  green  woodlands.  I  was  obliged  to  acknow- 
ledge that  if  the  Tana  with  its  powerful  current  was 

T     ,.  .      -,         .  „     .  .A  grand 

inconvenient  enough  from  a  practical  point  of  view,  it  forest 
produced  an  elevating  and,  indeed,  an  altogether  over-  °''^"^' 
powering  impression,  contemplated  thus  objectively.  And  up 
here,  under  the  deep  blue  vault  of  heaven,  face  to  face  with  the 
development  of  power  in  the  depths,  rested  the  peace  of  God. 
The  sun  beamed  all  the  clearer  after  the  storm  of  the  preceding 
night ;  it  played  with  the  tops  and  crowns  of  the  trees,  and 
painted  varied  shadows  on  the  ground,  which  was  gay  with 
fresh  grass  and  flowers  of  every  kind.  In  the  branches  could 
be  heard  the  cries  of  the  feathered  world,  and  over  the  blossoms 
in  the  woodland  shade  hovered  many-coloured  glittering  butter- 
flies, and  the  fresh  forest  air  poured  with  an  invigorating  flow 
into  the  lungs.  Over  the  sordid  cares  of  the  moment  the  soul 
soared  away  amid  these  impressions,  and  new  hope  came  into 
the  heart. 

I  determined  to  chronicle  on  the  map  of  the  Tana  the  union 
of  powerful  grandeur  and  moving  loveliness  presented  by  the 
landscape  at  this  part,  and  called  the  cataract  with  ^^^ ,_  ^.^ 
its  rapids,  after  the  name  of  Her  Majesty  the  German  toria  au- 

T-,  1  -,T-  •        >  1      T-<  n  )j  ffusta  Fall." 

Empress,  the  "Victoria  Augusta  tavL 

Towards  one  o'clock  I  found  Herr  von  Tiedemann,  with  the 


202  XEW  LtGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

column,  waiting  in  the  wood,  expecting  me.  Om-  march  was 
finished.  I  went  with  Hussein  and  Rukua  and  the  elder  of  the 
porters,  Musu,  to  look  for  a  camping-place.  Towards  three 
o'clock  we  had  found  one,  and  I  sent  Rukua  back  to  lead  the 
column  to  it.  The  porters  came,  but  the  camels  delayed  to 
Various  make  their  appearance,  and  when  at  last  they  arrived, 
losses.  a,t  about  seven  o'clock,  I  was  informed  that  besides  my 
horse  the  list  of  victims  for  the  day  included  a  camel,  a  donkey, 
and  a  porter  named  Omari  Washikura.  At  all  events  there  was 
a  completeness  about  the  losses  of  this  day. 

On  the  morrow  we  marched  about  seven  thousand  paces 
further,  in  a  tremendous  rain.  I  pitched  my  camp  in  a  clear 
space  by  the  river,  where  the  current  in  the  middle  was  so 
strong  that  it  caused  waves  like  billows  of  the  sea  to  roll  to  the 
banks.  As  on  this  day  the  Tana  repeatedly  rose  and  fell  again, 
a  man  might  easily  imagine  himself  by  the  shore  of  the  ocean. 

The  following  day  deserved  to  be  marked  with  red  letters. 
At  first  we  still  moved  on  among  mountains.  All  at  once  the 
declivities  became  gentler,  and  then  they  suddenly  ceased  alto- 
gether. We  were  on  level  ground.  The  mountain  chain  was 
A  "  red-  passed,  and  once  more  we  had  the  steppe  before  us. 
letter  day. '"^g  Were  uow  about  2,500  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  sea.  I  cannot  describe  what  a  feeling  of  satisfaction  it 
was  to  have  these  Mumoni  Mountains  behind  us,  with  their  diffi- 
culties and  discomforts,  that  for  a  time  had  almost  threatened 
to  spoil  our  expedition. 

Once  more  I  pitched  my  camp  by  a  dry  affluent  of  the  Tana. 
A  glorious  afternoon,  full  of  sunshine,  dried  the  exhausted 
column,  and  soon  brought  back  the  old  confident  tone  of  mind 
among  the  people.  As  Omari  Washikura,  to  whom  I  had,  on 
the  day  before,  immediately  sent  his  brother,  Ben  Omari, 
"Sick  proved  to  be  utterly  incapable  of  following  us,  his 
leave"  brother  came  back  to  me  to-day,  asking  permission  to 
granted,  j-gj^^^in  with  him,  and  as  soon  as  the  sick  man  was 
convalescent  to  return  with  him  to  the  coast.  I  gave  him  the 
required  permission,  and  fitted  him  out  richly  with  five  sheep, 
cartridges,  and  pieces  of  stuff.     I  also  gave  him  letters  for  the 


WILD  SPORTS  IN  THE  FOREST.  203 

coast ;  but  unhappily  the  two  brothers  never  reached  Lamu. 
Probably  they  were  slain  by  the  Wakamba,  or  captured  as 
slaves. 

In  the  night  between  November  28th  and  29th,  to  the  terror 
of  my  people,  three  lions  appeared  in  our  camp  ;  but  they  soon 
rushed  away.  For  the  next  few  days  we  were  once  more  sui-- 
rounded  by  the  complete  solitude  of  African  bush  steppes.  We 
came  into  regions  where  the  wealth  of  animal  life  was  Lions  in 
greater  than  anything  we  had  yet  met  with.  On  the  ^'^^  ''"^^■ 
march,  on  the  29th,  we  heard  for  a  long  time  the  roaring  of 
lions  close  by  the  column,  and  we  repeatedly  came  upon  rhino- 
ceroses, which  in  their  stupidity  rushed  full  upon  us,  till  the 
bullets  from  my  double-barrelled  rifle,  catching  them  in  the 
region  of  the  eyes,  forced  them  to  turn  round.  On  the  left  a 
mountain  region  now  appeared,  which  was  called  by  Marongo 
the  Tia  mountain  land.  He  informed  me  that  it  was  a  day  and 
a  half  s  journey  from  thence  to  the  place  Kitui. 

Thus  we  came  once  more  into  regions  where  a  white  man 
had  been  before  us,  if  only  for  a  short  time — the  old  Krapfs 
faithful  Krapf.     I  now  began  to  hope  that  we  should  '"'"'^*'"y- 
soon  come  upon  the  fords  of  the  river  indicated  by  him. 

The  vegetation  assumed  ever  a  fresher  and  more  attractive 
character.     Magnificent  fan  palms  formed  a  lovely  screen  to  the 
Tana,  and   great  colonies  of  cacti  shot  up  amid  the  jj^pp^ 
various   kinds  of  acacia  in  the  steppe.     On  Novem-  tamue 

.„.  1  .  ■    .  shooting. 

ber  30th  I  succeeded  m  killmg  two  hippopotami  in  a 

little  aflfiuent  of  the  Tana,— a  welcome  addition  to  the  store  of 

meat  for  my  Waniamwesi. 

On  December  1st  we  came  to  a  place  in  the  river  where  it 
divides  into  seven  forks.  "  Here,"  thought  I,  "  is  where  we 
must  cross,"  and  I  at  once  began  to  ascertain  the  depth 
of  the  separate  arms  of  the  river.  Meanwhile  my  column  had 
come  up,  and  we  halted  on  the  right  hand  shore,  while  my 
people  waded  across  one  arm  after  another.  As  we  were  thus 
taking  our  ease,  an  enormous  rhinoceros  suddenly  Hunting  a 
rose  up,  in  one  of  the  little  islands  situated  in '^'""'°^""'- 
the    river,    and   was   about    to    cross   the  arm    of  the   river 


204 


XEW  LIGHT   OX  DARK  AFIUC'A. 


that  separated  us  from  the  island,  exactly  in  the  fece  of 
nor  column.  M_v  jK^iplo  jnmjDed  up  in  alarm,  but  a  shot  in 
tlie  head  from  my  rifle  induced  the  colossus  to  retreat,  and 
atU'nijJt  tlie  passage  of  the  river  somewliat  lower  down.  But 
this  brought  the  animal  directly  into  the  line  of  fire,  and  not 
onlv  Ilerr  von  Tiedemaini,  l)ut  several  of  the  8onialis  also  shot 


ttf  '       '^ Ij<^  HUNTINCJ   THE    lilllXO- 


-^■J^f 


.  '■"'"    ''   at  it,  so  that  the  rhino- 
ceros fell  on  the  ground  not 
far  from  the  place  where  we 
had  intended   crossing.     This  was  a  slight  encouragement,  but 
not  enough  to  sweeten  the  failure  of  the  passage. 

Six  of  the  arms  were  fordable  ;  but  the  seventh  represented 
the  real  course  of  the  Tana,  and  hard  as  my  people  tried  to 
find  a  place  where  they  could  wade  across,  the  thing  this 
time  again  proved  to  be  impossible.     I  remained  at  this  fork 


The  -Carl  Alexander  Falls. 


THE  KARL  ALEXANDER   CATARACT.  205 

of  the  river  all  the  day,   and  next  day  marched  further  up 
the  stream  amid  a  succession  of  showers  of  rain.     En- 
counters with   rhinoceroses   now  formed   part   of  the  cuit  laaa 
incidents  of  each  marching  day.     On  December  2nd  I  ^^^^' 
moreover  lost  my  last  faithful  dog  Tell,  who  suddenly  ceased 
to  follow  me,  and,  when  I  coaxed  him,  all  at  once  fell  down 
trembling,  with  glazed  eyes  ;  so  that  I  had  to  leave  „    ^  , 

,     ^        ,  Deatn  of 

Rukua  behmd,  with  a  request  to  Herr  von  Tiedemann  faithful 
to  shoot  the  poor  creature.     On  such  expeditions  as 
these  it  is,  in  fact,  unadvisable  to  take  dogs,  or  anything  to 
which  our  heart  grows  attached,  for  it  is  necessary  to  part  from 
one  after  another,  and  each  parting  has  its  separate  heartache. 

According  to  Marongo's  assertion,  we  were  to  arrive  in 
Kikuyu  to-day,  but  this  prophecy  turned  out  to  be  a  great 
mistake.  We  did,  indeed,  come  once  more  to  a  wooded  mounted 
region,  in  front  of  which  the  Tana  spreads  out  into  a  broad, 
lakelike  form.  This  I  caused  to  be  sounded  at  various  places 
with  regard  to  its  depth,  and  thus  gained  something  like  a 
measurement  of  its  surface,  which  I  should  estimate  at  an 
average  of  3,300  square  yards. 

A  little  above  this  lake-like  broadening  of  the  river  the  mass 
of  water  flings  itself  down  in  a  cataract,  which,  though  it  rushes 
over  several  terra,ces,  must,  according  to  the  aneroid  barometer, 
have  a  total  height  of  more  than  three  hundred  feet,  and  may 
accordingly  be  safely  reckoned  among  the  greatest  a  grand 
waterfalls  of  the  earth.  As  it  began  to  rain  towards  thf^Kari 
noon,  I  pitched  my  camp  on  the  slope  of  a  hill,  about  Alexander." 
90  feet  below  the  summit  of  this  cataract,  and  here  the  rock 
literally  trembled  beneath  us.  The  uproar  was  so  loud  that  we 
could  hardly  keep  up  a  conversation.  If  this  waterfall  were 
situated  in  any  other  part  of  the  world  it  would  certainly  every 
year  be  a  goal  for  the  journey  of  the  cultured  world.  I  named 
it,  after  His  Royal  Highness  the  Grand  Duke  of  Saxony,  the 
"  Karl  Alexander  Fall." 

From  the  heights  I  could  see,  in  the  north,  a  quite  peculiarly 
formed  mountain  region,  which  I  was  a  few  days  later  to  identify 
as  Kikuyu  Muea.     Mbe  was,  accordingly,  now  behind  us,  and 


206  XEW  LIGHT   ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

the  hope  that  Me  should  be  quit  of  the  wearisome  Tana 
became  stronger. 

From  the  mountains  that  had  so  much  frightened  us  on 
December  2nd  we  emerged  on  the  following  day.  The  Tana 
likewise  began  to  depart  from  its  southern  direction,  and  to 
incline  first  towards  the  west,  and  soon  afterwards  even  a  little 
towards  west-north-west.     This  likewise  was  a  hopeful  sign. 

On  this  day,  December  3rd,  I  shot  a  magnificent  waterbuck 

and  an  antelope ;   and  now  it  was  that  I  suddenly  astonished 

Herr  von   Tiedemann  with  an  art  which  he   did   not 

Sport  and  „  . 

culinary  at  all  suspect  me  01  possessmg.  1  began  to  occupy 
science,  j^yggif  -with  the  kitchen,  and  prepared  pieces  of  the 
back  of  the  waterbuck  with  a  sauce  that  almost  excited  Herr  von 
Tiedemann  to  admiration.  He  thought  he  had  never  tasted 
anything  like  it  at  Hiller's  or  Uhl's.  As  we  always  had  a  supply 
of  milk  and  cream,  and  the  proportion  of  meat  in  the  strong 
broth  was  of  no  great  consequence,  and  we  had  also  salt  and 
pepper  still  in  store,  the  preparation  of  a  strong  sauce  did  not 
present  very  formidable  difficulties.  From  that  time  we  occupied 
ourselves  more  and  more  with  the  labours  of  the  kitchen,  and 
practically  degraded  to  the  character  of  a  scullion  the  brave 
cook,  Bamberger,  who  seemed  to  be  of  opinion  that,  for  possible 
scientific  investigations  in  Europe,  he  ought  to  accumulate 
,    ^        every  kind  of  East  African  remnant  in  our  cooking  pots. 

Bamberger  •'  .    .  .  . 

and  Ms  Bamberger  was  one  of  the  originals  of  the  expedition, 
°°^  ''and  entirely  disproved  the  dogma  of  the  educational 
importance  of  the  whip  of  hippopotamus  hide.  In  the  best 
natured  manner  he  opposed  all  measures  of  mine  that  were 
directed  towards  cleanliness,  or  even  the  punctual  accom- 
plishment of  work.  When  the  hippopotamus  hide  whip  was 
flourished  over  his  back,  he  prayed  to  Allah,  which  he  never  did 
at  other  times.  When  the  unpleasant  performance  was  closed,  he 
would  betake  himself  Avith  a  cheerful  smile,  once  more  to  his 
cooking  pots,  which  might  have  done  well  for  the  retorts  in  the 
witch's  kitchen  at  a  performance  of  Faust.  In  the  further 
course  of  the  expedition  I  appointed  him  as  drummer ;  and  as 
he^showed  himself  completely  competent  for  this  office,  and 


CROSSING   THE  GREAT  STEPPE.  207 

also  fought  most  manfully  in  our  combats,  a  reciprocal  feeling 
of  esteem  was  developed  between  him  and  us,  towards  the  end 
of  our  intercourse. 

On  December  3rd,  about  ten  miles  above  the  Karl  Alexander 
Fall,  I  discovered  another  waterfall,  which  poured  down 
its  waters  like  a  note  of  interrogation.  It  turned  towards  the 
north,  then  towards  the  east,  shot  down  in  that  direction,  and 
immediately  below  the  fall  the  river  turned  to  the  south,  and 
then,  by  the  west,  took  its  way  back  directly  to  the  north. 
This  fall  I  entered  on  my  map,  after  the  name  of  jj^^ 
our  most   prominent   scientific    African   investigator,  "sohwein- 

furthFall" 

as  the  "  Schweinfurth  Fall."  At  noon  on  this  day  I  aiid"Krapf 
pitched  my  camp  below  a  conical  rock,  which  is  ^^^^'" 
situated-  about  at  the  place  where  Krapf  must  have  reached  the 
river.  The  spot  cannot  be  determined  with  complete  accuracy, 
as  the  statements  of  Krapf  are  too  undecided.  In  honour  of  the 
old  German  missionary  and  honest  investigator  I  called  this 
hill  "  Krapf  Hill." 

The  forest   that   skirts   the  Tana  now,  to  my  great  joy, 
receded   more   and   more,   and   on   the   following   day   ended 
entirely.     Instead  of  it,  there  extended  before  us  the  wide,  red 
grass-covered  steppe,  over  which  the  eye  could  range 
for  many  miles,  where  on  the  horizon  great  herds  of  ukamba 
antelopes  or  bucks  stood  forth,  and  among  them  zebras 
and  giraffes  ;  where  the  rhinoceros  thundered  along,  and  where 
at   night   the   lion   lifted   up   his   voice.     This  is  the   actual 
elevated  steppe  of  Ukamba  Kitui,  which  we  now  entered,  and 
the  sight  of  which  made  our  hearts  beat  higher,  in  view  of  the 
fact  that  from  here  we  should  come  direct  into  the  region  of 
Kikuyu. 

In  this  steppe  the  Tana  began  to  receive  affluents  from  the 
south  side  likewise;  a  proof  that  we  were  approaching  the 
western  chains  of  mountains.  On  December  6th  we  crossed 
several  of  these  southern  tributaries,  that  cut  their  way  iributa-'ies 
deeply  in  the  red  clay  soil,  but  generally  contained  only  °^  *^®  ^*"*- 
a  little  water.  I  had  learned  from  the  people  of  Mbe  that  the 
Wakamba  of  Kitui,  when  they  went  to  Kikuyu  and  the  Baringo, 


208 


NEW  LiaUT   OX  DARK  AFRICA 


crossed  tlie  Tana  at  a  place  where  it  becomes  two  rivers  (niito 
niibili).  The  name  of  Dilca  Avas  given  as  that  of  tlie  secoud 
river,  which  was  described  as  coming  from  the  soutli.  For 
some  days  we  had  been  looking  for  this  division  of  the  river. 
On  December  6th  I  made  a  long  excursion  up  the  Tana  for 
this  purpose  with  Hussein  Fara.  The  river  had  here  taken  a 
course  exactly  towards  the  west-north-west,  and  my  servant 
Rukua  liad  declared,  already  on  the  preceding  day,  that  he  had 
seen  the  Kenia,  which  is  not  improbable,  as  he  had  very  sharp 
eyes.     Hussein  and  I  discovered  the  long-sought  fork,  on  (he 


.^,, 

ji  t 

jm 

-    fl 

■^fc^-1 

M 

Ih 

■ 

HI 

4 

^ 

^^*' 

"'^ 

iSJ- 

m--_^ef!l!f(^_ 

i'01;LJI\(.i-    THE    DiKA. 

6th,    in    the  far    distance.     Greatly    elated    by    this    fact,    we 
returned  to  our  camp  that  afternoon. 

On  December  7th,  after  a  two  hours'  march,  this  division  of 
the  river  was  reached  towards  the  south-west,  among  the  moun- 
tains towards  the  Naiwasha  lake,  and  the  passage  over  the 
Dika,  in  which  the  people  had  to  wade  up  to  the  chest  in 
Passage  of  Water,  with  all  the  cattle  and  the  burdens,  was  happily 
the  Dika.  accomplished  in  about  the  same  space  of  time.  I  made 
the  people  stand  in  a  row  across  the  Thika  river,  which  is  about 
90  feet  wide,  and  thus  one  sheep  after  another  was  passed 
from  hand  to  hand  to  the  opposite  bank.  From  this  spot  the 
Tana  turns  more  and  more  towards  the  north. 


FIRST   VIEW  OF  KENIA.  209 

We  are  now  at  an  elevation  of  about  4,800  feet,  and  the  nights 
begin  to  be  refreshingly  cool.  The  thermometer  at  night  falls 
to  15°  C.  (58  Fahrenheit),  and  the  evenings  are  agreeable  and 
refreshing.  The  firmament  in  the  hom-s  of  night  appears  more 
immeasurably  lofty  than  anywhere  else  on  account  of  the 
more  rarefied  atmosphere.  The  grasses  and  herbs  be- The  steppe : 
come  sweeter  and  fresher,  and  entirely  new  kinds  of '*^^^*'^*^ 

•^  ana  am- 

trees  appear.  The  number  of  game  animals  is  enormous.  ™^i^'  ^t"- 
Zebras,  antelopes,  rhinoceroses,  wild  hogs,  and  waterbucks  are 
often  seen  feeding  peacefully  together.    Every  day's  march  yields 
prizes  to  the  gun.     The  enclosure  of  the  Tana  again  increases, 
but  it  has  lost  the  hard  character  that  marks  the  lower  steppe, 
and  offers  an  easy  access  to  the  waters.    On  our  left  the  mountain 
chain  begins  ;  its  outlying  ridges  extend  to  the  river.     It  can  be 
none  other  than  the  Kenangop  range  that  borders  the  Naiwasha 
lake  on  the  north-east.     Already  on  December  6th  we  xraces  of 
had  suddenly,  to  our  great  joy,  come  upon  traces  of  *'^*'®"^'^=- 
mankind,  in  the  shape  of  a  place  with  cooking  stones  and  tent 
pegs  that  had  been  left  behind.    These  traces  soon  ceased  again, 
but  we  could  perceive  that  they  led  across  the  river.     I  was  in- 
formed in  Kikuyu  that  they  were  those  of  an  Arab  caravan, 
which  had  marched  from  Mombassa  to  Lorian. 

All  this  led  us  to  suppose  that  the  time  of  our  laborious 
march  on  the  Tana  was  drawing  to  its  conclusion,  and  that  we 
must  be  near  Kikuyu.     After  the  passage  of  the  Tana,  ^^^  ^^^^ 
as  I  was  accustomed  to  express  it,  the  "  poison  fang  "  of  difficulty 
the  river  had  been  extracted.     Its  volume  of  water  had 
decreased   by   one  half,   and  it  flowed   quietly  and   modestly 
onwards.     On  December  8th  we  suddenly  came  upon  some  men. 
They  were  upon  the  opposite  side  of  the  Tana,  but  with  Marongo 
as  an  interpreter,  we  were  able  to  make  ourselves  understood  by 
them.     They  were  people  from  Kikuyu,  who  had  driven  their 
herds  down  stream,  and  they  told  us  that  we  should  reach  their 
countr}'  on  the  morrow. 

On  this  day  we  descried  for  the  first  time,  though  it  was  to 
some  extent  veiled,  the  mighty  cone  of  the  Kenia,  just  in  front 
of  us,  on  the  horizon  in  the  north.    When  towards  evening  the 

14 


210  NEW  LIGHT   ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

clouds  parted,  its  snowclad  summit  was  also  to  be  seen.  That 
was  an  impressive  sight ;  and  our  hearts  beat  higher  when  we 
The  Kenia  thoughf  amid  how  much  toil,  care,  and  exertion  we  had 
Mountain,  ^j^g^  jg^j  ^j^yg  fa,r.  On  October  25th  we  had  thought  we 
beheld  the  Kenia  before  us ;  and  now  December  8th  had  come 
before  our  passionate  longing  had  been  realised.  Wliat  a  wealth 
of  impressions  and  experiences  filled  the  space  between  those 
two  dates  !  Unhappily,  on  that  evening,  one  of  my  porters  from 
Dar-es-Salam,  Amdallah,  was  left  behind.  He  had  for  some 
Poor  time  suffered  from  consumption,  and  I  had  long  since 
Amdallah.  relieved  him  of  his  burden.  The  lions,  which  roared  on 
that  night  louder  than  usual  behind  us,  unfortunately  left  no 
doubt  as  to  the  poor  fellow's  fate. 

On  December  9th,  the  Tana  again  turned  a  little  more 
towards  the  north.  "We  crossed  a  second  western  tributary,  and 
now  quitted  the  Tana  altogether,  which  from  this  place  turns, 
in  curves  visible  at  a  long  distance,  towards  the  Kenia,  from 
The  Aber-  which  it  flows.  About  uoou  On  this  day,  we  came  to  a 
dare  Range,  j-^^j^  Water  poud  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  Marawa, 
after  we  had  journeyed  all  the  morning  over  long-drawn  ridges 
of  hills  with  gradual  declivities.  The  Kenia  was  continually 
half  to  our  right,  and  on  the  left  were  the  mountains  of  the 
Naiwasha  Lake,  called  by  Thomson  the  Aberdare  Range. 

We  were  now  in  Kikuyu,  a  high  plateau  region  between 
Kenia  and  the  western  mountain  ranges,  in  which  the  Tana 
really  collects  its  volume  of  waters.  In  the  afternoon  the 
proud,  noble  Kenia  Mountain  stood  for  the  first  time  before  us, 
in  its  whole  unsullied  purity,  in  the  sunlight,  with  its  snow- 
fields  sparkling  in  the  brightness.  Towards  four  o'clock  on  this 
day  my  Somalis  and  Rukua,  whom  I  had  sent  out  to  settle  on 
the  road  for  next  day's  march,  suddenly  brought  five  Wakikuyu 
wakikuyn  ^^*°  °^^  Camp.  ThcsB  Were  the  first  strange  faces  we 
men  in  the  had  eucouutered  for  more  than  a  fortnight ;   and  for 

camp,  1,     J?  •  •  o        ' 

the  first  time  again,  since  that  period,  vegetable  food 
for  us  and  our  people  !  They  told  us,  that  they  would  lead  us 
next  morning  to  their  villages,  and  declared  themselves  willing 
to  pass  the  night  in  camp.     They  also  immediately  inquired 


AMONG    THE   WAKIKUYU.  211 

whether  I  had  come  to  bu}^  slaves  of  them,  announcing  them- 
selves as  having  some  of  both  sexes  for  disposal. 

Violent  showers  poured  down  upon  us  at  night,  as  the)'  had 
previously  done  by  day.  Next  morning  early  we  were  already 
on  the  march,  in  a  north-westerly  direction.  The  Wakikuyu 
showed  me  the  place,  in  the  distance,  where  Count  Teleki  had 
lived.  At  eleven  o'clock,  when  we  mounted  a  far-extending 
acclivity,  we  came  upon  the  first  settlements  of  men.  The 
people  hurried  to  meet  us,  bringing  flour,  sugar,  and  mtama 
for  sale,  of  which  my  people  bought  as  much  as  they  were 
at  all  able  to  carry.  'J'hen,  accompanied  by  a  crowd  Friendly 
that  could  be  counted  by  thousands,  we  ascended  ^^^thThe™ 
another  range  of  heights,  and  so  through  thick  grass,  natives, 
waving  like  a  sea,  down  to  the  margin  of  a  little  river,  the 
Marawa,  which  we  had  here  to  cross.  The  \\^akikuyu  knew  the 
white  race,  and  indeed  in  a  manner  advantageous  to  us,  for 
Count  Teleki  and  Herr  von  Hohnel  had  lived  here.  These  twO' 
had  taught  the  people  of  Kikuyu  a  certain  amount  of  good 
manners ;  and  it  amused  me  to  see  how,  in  consequence,  the 
natural  insolence  of  these  natives  was  continually  mingled  with 
outbreaks  of  fear. 

Of  this  I  had  immediate  experience  when,  by  the  river 
Marawa,  people  came  towards  me,  with  the  demand  that  I  should 
pay  tribute  before  I  crossed.  I  gave  them  to  understand  that 
such  was  not  the  custom  with  us  ;  but  I  was  obliged  to  order 
them  in  peremptory  tones  to  stand  away  from  the  ford,  before 
they  suddenly  declared  themselves  entirely  willing  to 


let  us  pass  the  Marawa  without  tribute.  Here,  in  the  of  the 
afternoon  hours  of  December  10th,  a  very  original 
passage  of  a  river  was  effected,  my  people  and  the  Kikuyu 
working  harmoniously  together.  The  water  reached  about  to 
our  necks,  and  it  may  be  imagined  what  difficulties  were 
experienced  in  getting  the  cattle  and  the  loads  of  powder  through 
the  rushing  current.  I  had  at  once  caused  a  rope  to  be  stretched 
across  the  river,  by  which  the  men  could  hold  fast.  The  work 
went  on  diligently,  the  camels  and  donkeys  were  pulled  across  by 
the  rope,  and  at  about  four  o'clock  the  last  had  been  carried  over. 


•212  NEW  LKHIT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

Here  it  was  that  the  brave  Marongo  manifested  all  the 
noble  qualities  of  his  character.  His  time  of  suffering  was  now 
over,  and  I  intended  to  send  him,  rewarded  with  presents,  back 
to  his  home.  For  the  first  time  he  walked  with  us  to-day  as  a 
Maron  o  a  "  gentleman,"  unguarded.  His  heart,  filled  with  grati- 
gentieman  tude.  Swelled  high  when  I  presented  him,  in  addition, 
with  an  old  gun  and  some  ammunition.  He  brandished 
the  gun  like  a  lance,  high  above  his  head,  pointing  it  at  the 
Kikuyu  people,  and  marching  upon  them  with  enormous  strides 
whenever,  during  the  passage,  they  came  too  near  the  baggage. 
He  maintained  strict  order,  and  was  thoroughly  impressed  with 
his  own  personal  importance.  "  The  Wakikuya  take  me  for  a 
European,"  he  said,  glancing  with  a  grin  at  his  European 
costume. 

A  little  above  the  ford  by  which  the  caravan  had  passed 
over  was  a  swaying  bridge,  high  over  the  river  ;  and  by  this  I 
myself,  with  Herr  von  Tiedemann  and  a  few  soldiers,  crossed 
to  the  opposite  side.  Our  tents  had  already  been  pitched  there, 
A  crowd,  some  thousands  strong,  surrounded  our  camp,  curious!) 
and  importunately.  Partly  from  a  freak  of  ostentation,  I  re- 
solved to  have  a  solemn  entry.  Two  Somalis  were  sent  on  in 
advance,  incessantly  blowing  the  trumpet,  and  behind  them 
came  a  drummer  beating  a  march.  Then  followed  Rukua  with 
Solemn  *^®  black,  white,  and  red  flag  ;  behind  him  came  I,  and 
entry  into  behind  me  Herr  von  Tiedemann.     Two  Somali  soldiers 

Konse.  i  i  ^i  ■  t        t  ■ 

closed  the  procession.  In  this  way  we  proceeded  along 
the  distance,  some  hundred  paces,  to  our  camping-place.  The 
first  thing  I  did  was  to  have  the  crowding  Kikuyu  people,  who 
had  come  dangerously  near  our  flock  of  sheep,  driven  back 
twenty  or  thirty  steps  in  every  direction  by  the  Somali  soldiers, 
and  to  inform  the  elders  that  any  raids  upon  our  herds  or  upon 
the  goods  of  the  expedition  would  be  answered  by  shots  from 
my  guns.  Then  I  entered  my  tent.  We  were  now  in  Konse, 
about  five  miles  from  Kitura,  the  Kitui  of  Count  Teleki.  The 
way  to  Baringo  appeared  to  lie  open  before  us,  and  we  thought 
we  had  left  behind  us  the  technically  difficult  portion  of  the 
German  Emin  Pasha  Expedition. 


^^^mm^^- 


CHAPTER    VII. 

J  THROUGH  THE  MASSAIS, 
OVER  THE  LEIKIPIA 
I'LATEAU  TO  THE 
BARINGO   LAKE. 

"Who  helped  me  'gainst  the  Titans' 
insolence, 
Who  rescued  nic  from  death,  from 
slavery  ?  " 

Goethe. 


I' 


N  Kiknyn  seA'en  days 
(if  rejoiciuj;  re- 
I'reslK'd  the  expedition, 
wliicli  was  greatly  ex- 
lia  Listed  by  marclies  on 
the  I'pperTana.  stay  at 
Kikuyii  is  a  hind  ^^''^''■ 
tliat  can  feed  its  j)eeiple, 
a  region  literally  flowing 
with  milk  and  honey.  It 
is  a  monutainous  conn- 
try,  with  gently-sloping 
lines,    inclining    towards 

the  Kenia  on  the  south,  richly  Avatered,  and  with  a  fresh  and 

verdant  appearance  everywhere. 


-214  XEW  LIGHT  OX  DARK  AFRICA. 

There  are  two  divisions  of  this  country :  Kikuyu  Mbi  on 
the  right  side  of  the  Tana  (Kikuyii  2),  where  we  now  were, 
and  Kikuyu  Mnea  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river  (Kikuyu  1). 
Thomson  has  much  to  say  of  the  untameable  cruelty  of  the 
inhabitants — exaggerated  like  all  the  pictures  of  the  dangers 
among  the  inhabitants  of  this  steppe  offered  by  Thomson  to 
the  wondering  European.  Count  Teleki  and  Herr  von 
of  the  Hohnel  had  thoroughly  impressed  the  thievish  Waki- 
^'  kuyu  with  the  superiority  of  European  weapons ; 
accordingly,  as  I  have  already  stated,  we  were  brought  face 
to  face  with  a  whimsical  mixture  of  impudent,  thievish  pro- 
pensities and  sentiments  of  timid  submission.  The  native 
chiefs  hastened  to  make  their  peace  with  us,  which  was  ratified 
by  the  slaughter  of  a  goat  or  a  sheep.  The  younger  inhabi- 
tants, however,  could  not  restrain  a  propensity  to  thieving, 
confirmed  by  transmission  through  many  generations,  even 
after,  with  the  concurrence  of  the  elders,  I  had  ordained  that 
every  attempt  at  robbery  should  be  visited  with  capital  punish- 
ment, and  a  number  of  them  had  suffered  the  penalty  for  in- 
Their  dulging  their  thievish  proclivities.  If  the  flocks  were 
propeu-  driven  through  the  land,  luxuriant  with  grass,  a  black 
sities.  s^YTO.,  its  posscssor  entirely  hidden  in  the  bush,  would 
be  suddenly  thrust  forth  from  one  side,  and  seizing  a  sheep 
by  the  hind  leg,  would  endeavour  to  vanish  with  the  prize  as 
quickly  as  it  had  appeared.  Then  the  Somalis  would  fire  into 
the  bushes,  out  of  which  a  yell  of  pain  would  burst  forth,  pro- 
claiming that  just  punishment  had  overtaken  the  evildoer. 

Thus  for  seven  days  did  we  travel  through  this  beauteous 
Kikuyu,  whose  flora  already  exhibits  the  forms  of  the  temperate 
zone.  Here  we  met  with  a  kind  of  tree  that  reminded  us  vividly 
Journey  of  our  European  oaks.  Here  I  saw  the  fresh  green 
thrK^uyu  clover  of  the  North  German  borders,  on  which  donkeys, 
country,  goats,  and  sheep  browsed  with  much  enjoyment.  Clear 
rivulets  gushed  onward  through  all  the  hollows,  with  an  average 
temperature  of  only  14-15°  C.  (55-58°  Fahr.).  The  nights  were 
already  bitterly  cold ;  the  thermometer  fell  by  ten  o'clock  to 
8-9°  C.  (44-47°  Fahr.).    In  the  morning  the  hoarfrost  lay  spread 


JOT^RXF.Y  n/RorG/r  kikvyu 


215 


over  the  I'resh  landscape.  On  December  16th  the  registerinij; 
"  lowest  tempera tnre  "  thermometer  for  the  first  time  exhibited 
the  register  at  the  freezing-point. 

The  ways  here  generally  lead  along  by  the  far-extending 
hills.  "When  we  had  reached  the  heights,  we  every  morning 
enjoyed  the  view  of  the  grave  and  majestic  lines  of  the  Kenia, 


Hut  of  the  Wakikuiu. 


which  appeared  more  and  more  prominently  in  the  north.  The 
Wakikuyn  snatched  greedily  at  the  colonred  and  white  Trade  with 
l)ieces  of  stnft"  which  we  still  had  with  us,  and  brought  ^''^  °''*'^''- 
in  return  into  our  cam])  ([uantities  of  poultry,  milk,  and  honey, 
besides  abundance  of  grain  of  all  kinds,  so  that  black  and  white 
revelled  alike  m  the  treasures  of  this  beautiful  land. 

Kikuyu   is,  beyond   all   question,  the  pearl  of  the  English 


216  iVA'ir  LIGHT  OX  DARK  AFRICA. 

possessions,  with  the  exception  of  Uganda.  It  is  unfortunate 
that  this  cool  and  fruitful  land  lies  so  far  distant  from  the 
coast ;  otherwise  it  would  most  certainly  be  suited  for  colonisa- 
tion by  European  agriculturists. 

On  December  1 7th  we  were  approaching  the  western  rampart 
of  Kikuyu.  On  this  morning  I  had  endeavoured  to  engage 
fifteen  fresh  Kikuyu  porters,  as  far  as  to  the  Baringo.  The 
impudent  fellows,  not  taking  warning  by  the  experiences  of  the 
preceding  days,  had  believed  they  could  completely  overreach 
us  by  demanding  payment  in  advance,  in  stuffs,  for  their  ser- 
vices to  the  Baringo,  and  then  absconding  with  their 

The  cll68it-  cj     '  *— ' 

ing  Kikuyu  booty.  But  I  was  prepared  for  an  attempt  that  was  so 
portere.  g^actly  in  their  way.  The  fugitives  were  at  once  laid 
low  by  a  few  bullets  from  our  guns,  and  we  succeeded  in  getting 
hold  of  and  securing  eleven  of  these  Kikuyu  people,  who  were 
now  compelled  to  make  up  their  minds  to  undertake  with  us 
the  march  into  the  Massai  lands  they  detested.  This  happened 
in  the  midst  of  a  crowd  of  people  that  might  be  counted  not 
by  thousands  only,  but  certainly  by  tens  of  thousands  ;  for  the 
whole  of  Kikuyu  is  extraordinarily  populous.  But  the  multitude 
was  so  intimidated  that  the  people  dared  not  attack  us,  though 
there  were  only  about  fifty  of  us  in  all. 

We  were  led  by  the  High  Priest  Kikuyus,  who,  with  all 
manner  of  mysterious  ceremonies,  blessed  the  bridges  we  had  to 
cross,  and  sprinkled  the  roads.  We  were  also  requested  every 
Magic  moment,  when  we  came  to  a  parting  of  the  roads,  to 
ceremonial.  gp^^_  -pj^g  Wakikuyu  declared  it  was  to  avert  the  evil 
omen ;  but  I  suspected  it  was  to  deliver  us  over  to  evil  spirits. 
We  passed  by  a  number  of  pleasant-looking  kraals  and  fish- 
ponds, with  the  glittering  Kenia  beside  us,  towards  the  right 
hand.  Gradually  the  cultivated  land  was  left  behind.  A  dense 
primeval  forest  separates  Kikuyu  from  the  land  of  the  Massais. 
Climbing  plants  twist  themselves  among  the  primeval  thickets. 
Defences  ^''^'^  malignant  stinging  nettles  make  any  deviation 
made  by      from  the  beaten  track  practically  impossible.     Over 

thenatives.  ^,  ,  i      i         i       ,  n -rr-n  \        i  i 

the  only  path  that  leads  out  oi  Kikuyu  they  have  made 
strong  fences,  between  which  deep  chevaux-de-frise,  concealed 


WESTERN  BOUNDARY  OF  KIKUYU.  217 

from  the  traveller,  have  been  sunk,  their  beds  studded  with 
sharp  pegs,  to  receive  the  unsuspecting  stranger  falling  into 
them.  I  had  one  of  these  trap  pits  opened,  and  found  that  it 
was  at  least  eighteen  feet  deep.  Whoever  falls  among  these 
sharp  pegs  is  lost  beyond  all  question.  To  the  left,  through  the 
wood,  I  was  obliged  to  have  a  way  cut,  to  avoid  such  dangers 
for  my  column.  ^Ye  came  immediately  to  a  great  clearing, 
where  for  the  first  time  for  a  week  we  again  saw  great  herds  of 
game  animals.  Here  we  halted,  and  took  leave  of  the  chiefs 
of  the  Wakikuyu  who  had  accompanied  us.  I  only  took  three 
guides  forward  with  me  ;  they  were  to  lead  us  out  of  the  prim- 
eval forest  to  the  elevated  plateaus  of  Leikipia,  as  far 

^  r     '  Guide  to 

as  the  boundaries  of  the  Massailands.  In  the  west,  to  the  Massai- 
the  left  of  us, — for  we  were  now  marching  continuously 
to  the  north-west, — rose  sharply  and  clearly  defined  the  moun- 
tains of  the  Naiwasha  Lake,  called  by  the  Massais  Subugu  la 
Poron.  To  the  right,  permanently  in  our  view,  rose  the  Kenia, 
an  invaluable  landmark  for  the  further  progress  of  the  expedi- 
tion, as  I  knew  that  it  is  situated  exactly  on  the  equator,  and 
that  the  Baringo  Lake,  which  I  was  trying  to  reach,  is  about  f° 
north.  I  had,  with  the  exception  of  the  question  of  water,  no 
difficulty  as  to  keeping  the  line  of  march  for  the  following 
weeks. 

On  the  margin  of  the  primeval  forest,  in  a  second  clearing 
of  the  wood,  I  had  my  camp  pitched,  towards  noon,  near  a  pool 
from  which  the  column  could  draw  water.     All  the  waters  of 
Kikuyu  pour  themselves  into  the  Tana.     We  now  stood  ^^^^^  ^^ 
on  a  watershed,   for  we   came  this  day  to  the  river  the  Guaso 

Nviro 

region  of  the  Guaso  Nyiro,  which,  emerging  from  the 
mountains  of  the  Naiwasha  Lake,  makes  its  way  towards  the 
north,  past  the  Kenia  and  the  Endika  Mountains,  where  it  turns 
towards  the  east.  We  stood  here,  on  December  17th,  at  a  part- 
ing from  whence  a  portion  of  the  waters  flows  towards  the  north, 
while  close  by,  the  Tana,  having  its  source  in  the  Kenia,  pours 
its  flood  towards  the  south.  In  Kikuyu  the  Tana  bears  the 
name  of  Sagana,  which  is  identical  with  Kilima,  meaning 
simply  "  mountain." 


218  NEW  LIGHT   OX  DARK  AFRICA. 

To-day  the  Wakikuyu  guides  left  us.  They  could  be  of  no 
further  use  to  us,  as  they  did  not  know  the  Leikipia  Plateau, 
through  which  the  Massais  range. 

The  thermometer  this  night  sank  to  28°  (Fahr.).  It  was 
true  Christmas  weather,  suitable  for  the  approaching  feast. 
Coldness  of  The  lightly-clad  people  cried  out  with  cold  and  pain; 
the  nights.  ^^^^  J  i^^ygelf  used,  from  this  time,  to  wake  regu- 
larly every  morning  between  three  and  four  o'clock,  shaking 
with  cold,  though  I  was  ensconced  in  four  blankets,  wore 
woollen  drawers  and  shirts,  and  spread  my  winter  wrapper 
over  me.  In  the  morning,  when  we  marched  through  the  frost- 
whitened  grass,  the  cold  seemed  to  cut  into  our  feet,  though 
we  wore  woollen  stockings  and  boots  up  to  the  knee. 

When  the  sun  got  higher,  we  had  the  most  lovely  weather 
of  a  German  August  and  September.  The  air  above  was  so 
thin  that  the  eye  seemed  to  rove  through  immeasurable  dis- 
tance. A  hill,  a  tree,  even  a  single  leaf  on  the  tree,  stands  out 
in  the  crystal  air  as  though  it  might  be  grasped.  The  game 
animals,  feeding  in  the  sunlight  in  crowded  groups,  seem  so 
entirely  within  range,  that  involuntarily  the  traveller  raises  his 
gun  again  and  again  for  a  shot  at  them.  But,  behold  !  the  ball 
strikes  midway  between  the  hunter  and  his  intended  prey.  But 
A  mountain  throughout  the  whole  bright  morning,  on  the  right,  rises 
region.  ^]^g  Keuia,  with  what  appears  to  us  its  seven-peaked, 
icy  crown  towering  into  the  blue  sky,  lifting  itself  proudly  and 
royally  above  the  eminences  around.  Spotless  and  pure  it 
stands,  not  like  a  thing  created,  but  like  an  embodiment  of  the 
Eternal  Himself;  and  involuntarily  the  heart  is  lifted  up  above 
the  petty  cares  and  thoughts  of  every-day  life.  When,  at  noon, 
the  sun  rises  to  the  zenith,  the  temperature  likewise  rises  to 
30°.  But  now  the  Kenia  begins  to  veil  his  icy  head  in  the 
clouds,  and  early  in  the  aftel'noon  a  hailstorm,  or  a  driving 
rain-shower,  descends  upon  our  camp,  by  which  the  temperature 
is  at  once  cooled  down  again  to  17-13°  C.  (62-55°  Fahr.),  so 
that  from  five  o'clock  we  have  congenial  and  cool  November 
weather. 

Thus  the  march  through  the  Leikipia  Plateau  goes  on,  so 


THE  HEIGHTS   OF   THE  KENT  A.  219 

long  as  we  are  under  the  north-east  monsoon  that  sweeps  down 
from  the  Kenia.  This  whole  country  has  something  TheieiHpia 
spectral  and  unearthly  about  it.  We  are  here,  perhaps,  ^i**^^'^- 
on  the  oldest  piece  of  earth,  which  has  certainly  been  turned 
towards  the  sun  for  millions  of  years.  Leikipia  stood  above  the 
surface  of  the  sea  at  a  period  since  which  South  America  has 
twice  been  buried  deep  in  the  waves,  and  thus  it  still  confronts 
the  gazing  wanderer.  It  is  an  ancient,  wrinkled  woman,  weary 
of  life,  and  withered  ;  ready,  on  her  part,  once  more  to  dive 
down,  rather  to-day  than  to-morrow,  into  the  reposeful  abyss 
of  death.  To  the  right  and  to  the  left  it  has  set  up  its  sons — 
sifnilar  to  itself,  and  ancient  likewise — Subugu  la  Poron  and  the 
Kenia.  But  the  Kenia  is  the  firstborn.  He  wears  the  The  grand 
kingly  crown  that  sparkles  like  diamonds,  and  with  Kemapeak. 
him  is  the  habitation  of  the  dark  forms  of  the  primeval  forest 
that  here  perform  their  mysteries.  According  to  the  belief  of 
the  Massais,  the  Godhead  itself  dwells  on  the  Kenia,  and,  un- 
approachable, this  seat  of  the  Divine  is  cut  off  from  the  contact 
of  the  finite.  To  ascend  the  towering  height  of  23,000  feet  will 
be  a  problem  which  only  the  boldest  and  most  stout-hearted  of 
our  Alpine  climbers  might  hope  to  accomplish.  Proudly  he 
draws  around  him  the  threefold  girdle  of  bristling,  impenetrable 
virgin  forest,  of  boulders  of  the  wilderness,  and,  lastly,  of  iron- 
bound  glacier  ice.  If  the  Hellenes  had  seen  the  Kenia  they 
would  have  dethroned  Olympus,  and  have  transferred  hither  the 
abodes  of  the  Eternal  Ones.  Had  Shakespeare  wandered  upon  the 
plateau  he  would  have  made  it  the  scene  of  the  witches'  incanta- 
tions in  Macbeth ;  for  here,  and  not  in  the  Scottish  Highlands, 
is  the  grandest  background  for  the  creations  of  Ossian. 

This  plateau  we  reached  on  December  18th,  penetrated  with 
the  awe  of  the  eternal  in  the  presence  of  these  mysterious  and 
minatory  scenes  of  nature.  On  the  19th  we  had  still  The  Guaso 
to  traverse  a  lengthened  woodland  district,  to  cross  ^yi"^"^'^^'- 
several  rushing  brooks,  which  brawled  along  over  volcanic 
debris  towards  the  north.  On  this  day  we  set  up  our  camp  at 
the  Guaso  Nyiro,  which,  cutting  its  course  deeply  through 
volcanic  stone,  rolls  to  the  north,  to  the  left  of  the  Kenia.     On 


•2-20  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

the  afternoon  of  this  daj'  I  ascended  a  hill,  which  commanded 
the  surromiding  counti\y.  There  all  at  once  the  sight  stretched 
immeasm-abl}'  into  the  endless  distance  of  the  north.  The  land 
undulates  gentl}',  and  there  is  nothing  to  limit  the  observer's 
o-aze.  The  fancy  is  awakened,  and  the  sight  seems  to  stretch 
to  Abyssinia,  to  Egypt ;  a  delusion,  certainly,  occasioned  by 
the  transparency  and  elasticity  of  the  atmosphere. 

I  determined,  in  the  first  place,  to  traverse  this  steppe  in  a 
northern  direction  till  the  Kenia  turned  oif  to  the  south-east, 
Line  of  ^lud  then  to  turn  westward,  to  hit  one  of  the  southern 
march.       afflueuts  to  Lake  Baringo. 

The  land  seemed  deserted.  On  the  summits  of  the  hills 
appeared  the  peculiar  circumvallations  of  the  Massai  kraals. 
No  human  beings  were  to  be  seen.  All  this  increased  the 
gloomy  character  of  the  landscape  in  the  highest  degree.  The 
Important  danger  in  this  marching  through  pathless  regions, 
quesuon  of  ^j^^^q^^  guides  acquainted  with  the  locality,  is  prin- 
auppiy.  cipally  connected  with  the  question  of  water.  The 
finding  of  water  is  entirely  a  matter  of  chance.  How  could  I 
know,  when  I  broke  up  my  camp  in  the  morning,  where  I 
should  find  water,  or  if  I  should  find  it  at  all  ?  With  this  object 
in  view,  I  used  always,  with  a  few  of  my  people,  to  precede  the 
column  by  at  least  an  hour's  march,  always  keeping  a  look-out 
for  the  course  of  a  brook,  or  a  pond  of  standing  water. 

On  December  20th,  I  certainly  succeeded  in  solving  my 
problem  in  an  especially  favourable  way.  That  day  we  en- 
camped due  east  of  the  Kenia  by  an  affluent  of  the  Guaso 
Nyiro,  the  most  charming  camping-place  we  had  found  on  the 
whole  expedition.  The  shore  is  here  fringed  with  a  growth 
of  fine  grass,  which  in  the  autumn  is  bright  with  all  kinds  of 
colours.  This  carpet  is  studded  with  picturesque  groups  of 
trees,  among  which  the  acacias,  with  their  sharp  outlines,  are 
Camping  especially  prominent.  On  account  of  its  loneliness  I 
Gretchen-  named  this  valley — which  I  can  recommend  to  future 
Thai.  travellers  as  a  camping-place — the  "  Gretchen-Thal." 
This  name  suddenly  occurred  to  my  mind  when,  on  returning 
from  a  prospecting  excursion  towards  the  north,  I  looked  down 


PLAN  OF  THE  EXPEDITION.  221 

on  the  pleasant  picture  of  mj'  encamped  column,  engaged  in 
cooking,  and  on  the  grazing  herd,  the  camels  and  donkej^s,  and 
the  cheerful  people.  On  the  afternoon  of  December  20th,  just 
as  I  was  working  at  a  report  for  Germany,  in  which  I  declared 
that  Leikipia  appeared  deserted,  and  that  it  seemed  as  though 
the  Massais  had  fled  before  us,  the  Kenia  suddenl}^  and  a  tropical 
for  the  last  time,  poured  down  on  my  tent  such  a  hail-  ^*'"'"'- 
storm  as  threatened  almost  to  crush  it  to  pieces,  as  though  to 
express  utter  scorn  of  my  delusion.  The  Kenia,  whose  sons  the 
Massais  call  themselves,  knew  his  children  better !  He  was 
perfectly  aware  that  they  retreat  before  no  man,  and  least  of 
all  before  a  little  expedition  like  ours ;  and  of  this  we  were  to 
receive  proof  next  day. 

Before  continuing  my  narrative,  I  will  here  insert  a  short 
account  of  the  general  plan  of  the  German  Emin  Pasha  Expe- 
dition under  my  leadership.  Previously  to  my  expedition,  the 
Massai  route  had  in  general  been  considered  as  practically 
almost  impassable.  Entirely  exaggerated  opinions  were  held 
as  to  the  dangers  of  this  road.  In  view  of  these  difficulties, 
Stanley  had  made  up  his  mind  to  make  the  long  pjanofthe 
circuit  round  the  Cape  and  up  the  Congo,  although,  E^^pasha 
compared  with  ourselves,  he  had  unlimited  means  Expedition, 
at  his  disposal,  and  had  the  support  of  all  official  circles 
working  in  Africa.  An  assertion  of  Stanley's  has  been  com- 
municated to  me,  in  which  he  gave  it  as  his  opinion,  that  to  get 
through  the  Massais  in  warlike  fashion,  a  man  must  have  a 
force  of  at  least  one  thousand  Europeans  at  his  back.  A  large 
part  of  the  German  Emin  Pasha  committee  continued  to  hold 
similar  opinions.  Wissmann,  as  well  as  Reichardt,  declared 
the  Massai  route  to  be  impracticable ;  and  Wissmann  Eeichardt's 
especially,  when  he  laid  before  the  committee  his  plan  ''v^-^°''- 
for  the  march  up  the  Tana,  had  included  in  it,  as  a  matter  of 
course,  the  avoiding  of  the  Massailand  and  Uganda. 

This  view,  moreover,  could  not  appear  altogether  unwar- 
ranted, after  perusing  the  reports  of  the  two  travellers  who 
up  to  that  time  had  traversed  Massailand,  namely,  that  of 
Dr.  Fischer,  and  that  of  Thomson  especially.     Thomson  com- 


222  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

manded  an  expedition  in  Massailand,  compared  with  which  our 
Thomson's  I'esources  must  appear  altogether  ludicrous  ;  and  yet 
expedition,  j^g  jjg^^j  jj^  ^j^g^^^  countrj  Submitted  to  a  treatment 
which,  judged  by  a  European  standard,  not  only  falls  below  the 
notion  of  "  gentlemanlike,"  but  must  be  plainly  designated  as 
unworthy.  Proofs  of  this  are  plentifully  found  in  his  book  of 
travels.  Thomson  thought  he  could  produce  an  impression  on 
the  Massais  by  all  kinds  of  tricks,  as,  for  instance,  by  playing 
the  part  of  a  great  magician,  taking  out  his  set  of  false 
teeth  and  putting  it  back  again,  preparing  eflferyescing  lemonade 
with  Eno's  Fruit  Salt,  and  declaring  the  devil  was  in  the 
mixture.  I  have  tried  to  produce  an  impression  on  the  Massais 
by  means  of  forest  fires,  by  fiery  rockets,  and  even  by  a  total 
jj  eclipse  of  the  sun  that  happened  to  occur  on  December 

ment  ofthe23rd  ;  but  I  have  found,  after  all,  that  the  one  thing 
which  would  make  an  impression  on  these  wild  sons  of 
the  steppe  was  a  bullet  from  the  repeater  or  the  double-barrelled 
rifle,  and  then  only  when  employed  in  emphatic  relation  to  their 
own  bodies. 

The  results  of  the  Thomsonian  manipulation  were  what 
might  have  been  expected.  I  will  cite  a  few  passages  from  his 
book  of  travels  which  prove  this  very  clearly.  I  do  this,  on  the 
one  hand,  to  prove  what  ideas  the  Massais  in  these  regions  must 
Effect  of  ^^^^  ^^^  °^  *^^  white  race,  and,  on  the  other,  because 
Thomson's  for  my  part,  on  my  first  meeting  with  the  Massais,  I 

treatment.  i(-  •    ^  n    ,         i        • 

mysell  was  mfluenced  by  the  mipressions  produced  by 
Thomson's  descriptions.  I  was  firmly  resolved,  let  come  what 
would,  not  to  put  up  with  such  behaviour  towards  myself. 

Among  other  things,  the  Massais  had  forbidden  Thomson  to 
shoot  on  their  territory.  Thomson  himself  tells  us  that  though 
there  were  oxen,  showing  the  neighbourhood  of  Massais,  about  a 
mile  off,  he  resolved,  in  consideration  of  their  starving  conditioi), 
to  risk  a  shot.  The  beast  falls,  and  Thomson's  servant  rushes  up 
to  it,  and  at  once  tears  off  a  piece  to  eat  raw.  Thomson  tells 
us,  in  continuation  (3rd  edition,  p.  368),  "My  exclamations  of 
disgust  were  stopped  by  hearing  warning  voices,  and,  turning 
about,  I  saw  my  men  pointing  in  the  direction  of  the  Massai 


THOMSON'S  RELATIONS    WITH   THE  JIASSAFS.  223 

kraals.  '  We  are  in  for  it  now !  '  I  mentally  ejaculated,  as  I 
saw  great  numbers  of  warriors  with  their  gleaming  spears  com- 
ing towards  us  at  full  trot.  I  retreated  at  once  towards  mj^ 
men,  Brahmin  bringing  a  huge  chunk  of  zebra  with  him.  The 
warriors  were  soon  down  upon  us,  and  in  response  to  their  cries 
we  stopped,  and  closed  up.  The  Elmoran,  in  the  most  savage 
manner,  demanded  an  explanation.  As  they  stuck  their  great 
spears  in  the  ground,  they  asked  us  if  we  wanted  to  fight.  If 
so,  they  were  ready !  We  at  once  put  on  our  most  '  umble,' 
Uriah  Heep  manner,  and  looked  profoundly  contrite.  We  were 
deeply  grieved,  we  said,  for  thus  infringing  their  customs,  but 
we  had  done  it  for  the  purpose  of  getting  a  particular  part  of 
the  creature's  entrails,  which  was  necessary  for  the  making  up 
of  our  medicine.  They  had  to  be  further  softened  by  a  largesse 
from  our  sadly -diminished  stores,  and  then  they  consented  to 
let  us  go  on." 

On  page  379  Thomson  further  says,  concerning  the  Massais 
of  the  region  into  which  we  were  now  going :  "  Certainly  they 
were  rude  to  a  degree  I  had  not  yet  seen.  They  scrupled  not  to 
stop  us,  by  holding  their  spears  at  my  breast,  and  demanding 
beads.  .  .  .  The  Massais  were  in  very  great  numbers,  and  con- 
tinued nasty  to  a  degree  that  was  maddening.  They  played 
Avith  us  as  a  cat  does  with  a  mouse,  and  the  ending  would,  with- 
out doubt,  have  been  the  same,  but  for  a  certain  hazy  respect 
and  fear  they  had  of  me,  as  a  phenomenon  the  power  of  which 
it  was  not  safe  to  rouse."  (So  Mr.  Thomson  imagined!)  "I 
had  to  sit  continually  on  exhibition,  ready  to  take  their  filthy 
paws,  pull  out  my  teeth  for  their  admiration,  and  spit  upon 
them,  to  show  that  I  did  not  mean  them  any  harm." 

On  page  381  he  says:  "  I  was  plundered  of  almost  every- 
thing. The  warriors  were  quarrelsome,  and  the  slightest  accident 
at  any  moment  might  be  the  signal  for  a  massacre.  The  Massais 
in  front  ordered  us  not  to  come  near  them  till  they  had  discussed 
all  the  pros  and  cons  of  my  case.  ...  At  last,  after  four  days' 
detention,  we  were  rejoiced  to  hear  that  we  might  proceed." 

Thomson  also  relates  how  one  day  a  Massai  took  hold  of 
him  by  the  nose  to  see  if  it  were  as  loose  as  his  teeth  ;  that 


'22-i  XE]V  LIGlir  OX  DARK  AFRICA. 

another  da}'  the  Massai  warriors  cut  down  his  guards,  and 
Massai  that  he  was  then  compelled,  in  addition,  to  pay 
arrogance,  ^j-ibute  to  the  Massais  because  blood  had  been  shed 
on  Massai  soil. 

Such  had  been  the  previous  record,  in  the  relations  between 
the  white  race  and  the  arrogant  Massai  nation,  which  I  was  to 
encounter  on  the  following  day. 

For  a  long  time  it  was  believed  that  the  Massais  belonged 
to  the  great  Hamitic  race  in  the  north-east  of  Africa,  and  were 
related  to  Somalis  and  Gallas.  According  to  newer  investiga- 
tions, thev  are  said  to  belong  to  a  Great  Central  African 

Character  „       "      ,  •  f     i        t^  tvt-i  i    ht 

of  the  race,  from  the  regions  or  the  Upper  JNile  and  iVlam- 
bukuland.  This  point  I  must  leave  undecided.  Like 
Attila's  Huns  and  other  nomadic  peoples,  they  have  developed, 
in  the  highest  degree,  a  propensity  for  plunder  and  a  thirst 
for  blood.  The  continual  flesh  diet  on  which  they  live  has 
physiologically  increased  their  natural  savageness,  and  the 
brutalising  of  the  feelings  that  must  ensue  with  people  who 
are  in  the  habit  of  slaughtering  and  devouring,  in  a  cold-blooded 
manner,  the  domestic  animal  they  themselves  have  reared, 
appears  here  in  a  very  decided  manner.  A  people  of  herdsmen, 
where,  the  shepherd  is  not  at  the  same  time  the  butcher  of  the 
cattle,  will  be  able  to  develop  the  gentler  feelings  of  the 
heart,  as  we  have  often  found  them  described  in  the  Arcadian 
songs.  But  where,  through  centuries  of  generations,  the  herds- 
man has  been  also  the  slaughterer  of  his  cattle,  as  is  the  case 
Social  with  the  Mongols  on  the  elevated  plains  of  Central 
the*nomadic  A-sia,  and  with  the  Massais  on  the  elevated  plains  of 
herdsman.  Central  Africa,  there,  by  inheritance,  an  almost  abso- 
lute state  of  brutalisation  must  ensue.  This  law  has  always 
explained  why  the  herdsmen  of  the  nomadic  races  have  constantly 
furnished  the  most  savage  phenomena  in  the  world's  history,  as 
we  have  seen  them  embodied  in  Europe,  in  personages  like 
Jhengis  Khan  and  Attila. 

In  addition  to  this  psychological  law  comes  the  fact,  that 
such  races  are  prevented,  by  the  peculiarity  of  their  employ- 
ment, from  establishing  themselves  anywhere  permanently.   The 


CHARACTER   OF  THE  MASSAIS.  225 

possession  of  great  herds  necessitates  a  continual  change  of 
domicile.  While  the  agriculturist  is  obliged  to  remain  on  his 
soil,  to  which  his  heart  becomes  attached,  the  nomad  warUke 
is  indifferent  to  the  charms  of  owning  a  home.  Where  omT^^''^^ 
there  is  pasture  for  his  cattle,  where  there  is  water  for  ^<>'^^^- 
them  to  drink,  thither  he  goes  with  his  herds  ;  and  the  practice 
he  thus  gets,  from  his  youth  up,  makes  him  capable  of  under- 
taking warlike  expeditions  across  great  tracts.  Thus  the 
Massai  has  become  the  terror  of  the  whole  of  East  Africa, 
Living  in  the  elevated  plains  eastward  of  the  lakes,  Avhere 
winter  and  summer,  following  each  other  not  within  the  round 
of  twelve  months,  but  within  the  space  of  twenty-four  hours, 
dwell  together  all  the  year  round,  where  night  has  taken  winter 
for  itself,  while  tropical  heat  rules  by  day,  he  is  hardened  to  all 
discomforts  of  climate.  With  hasty  foot  he  traverses  the 
steppes  to  the  rich  lands  of  the  Bantu  in  the  south, 

1  11  1  T-i'ipi  Eeligious 

and  even  to  the  places  on  the  coast.  Baithiul  to  the  and  moral 
natural  character  of  his  kind,  he  has  built  up  for  him-  ^  *  "^' 
self  a  religious  belief,  according  to  which  only  the  Massais  are 
sons  of  the  Deity,  and  as  such  have  a  natural  right,  con- 
firmed by  God,  to  all  the  cattle  of  the  earth.  Any  man,  not 
being  a  Massai,  found  in  possession  of  cattle  is  guilty  of  death, 
and  the  Massai  remorselessly  murders  not  only  the  able-bodied 
men,  but  the  infant  at  the  mother's  breast,  girls,  and  old  women. 
Slaves  from  other  tribes  he  altogether  despises. 

But  if  all  the  conditions  are  present  that  tend  to  bring  to 
full  development  the  wild  and  brutal  qualities  of  the  man,  on 
the  other  hand,  among  the  Massais  there  may  be  recognised  the 
ennobling  influence  which  is  produced  in  every  people  by  the 
inherited  consciousness  of  rule.  Accustomed  to  see  all  around 
them  tremble  at  the  name  of  Massai,  the  warriors  of  the  race 
have  acquired  a  natural  pride,  which  cannot  be  desig-  Haughty 
nated  otherwise  than  as  aristocratic.  From  the  first  the  bear^gdV 
Massais  assumed  towards  me  the  deportment  of  young  portment. 
haughty  noblemen.  They  recognise  only  one  kind  of  work, 
namely,  war  and  the  protection  of  the  herds.  All  industrial 
occupations,    such    as    trading    with    passing    caravans,    the 

13 


226  NEW  LIGHT   ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

manufacture  of  weapons  and  implements,  and  the  driving  of  the 
herds,  are  undertaken  by  the  Wandorobbo,  a  kind  of  Massai, 
who  live  here  intermingled  with  the  warrior  tribes. 

The  haughty  and  warlike  spirit  innate  in  the  Massais   is 
considerably  strengthened  by  the  peculiar  matrimonial  institu- 
tions, and  by  the  constitutions  of  the  race.    Their  form 

Form  of  '  •'       .       ,  .  ,    •         i     i  i  •   i 

govern-  of  government  is  the  very  ancient  patriarchal  one  which 
"^°*'  we  meet  with  in  the  Old  Testament.  The  elders  of  the 
families  manage  the  great  affairs  of  the  tribe  in  their  councils, 
and  represent  the  tribe  abroad.  The  family  and  the  tribe,  into 
Avhich  it  has  developed,  is  self-contained  with  regard  ■  to  those 
without ;  consequently  here,  as  everywhere  under  the  same 
conditions,  the  vendetta  has  developed  itself  in  its  purest  form. 
If  a  member  of  one  tribe  is  murdered  by  a  member  of  another, 
retribution  is  exacted  from  the  second  tribe  as  such,  whether 
the  vengeance  strikes  the  murderer  or  another. 

But  the  point  that  seems,  above  all  others,  peculiar  to  the 
Massai  community  is  the  strict  social  separation  of  the  married 
The  from  the  unmarried  element.     The  unmarried  Massai, 

ai'^^^the  called  ElmorAn,  is  simply  a  warrior.  He  may  live 
Massais.  only  ou  milk  or  flesh,  at  any  rate  only  on  animal 
food,  and,  more  than  this,  he  may  only  take  one  of  these  at  a 
time.  If  he  wishes  to  go  from  the  milk  to  the  meat  diet,  or  the 
reverse,  he  must  begin  by  taking  an  emetic,  so  that  the  two 
kinds  may  never  meet  in  his  stomach.  This  also  is  an  arrange- 
ment that  has  been  hallowed  by  religious  consecration.  He  is 
likewise  fond  of  sucking  the  blood  from  a  live  ox,  a  hole  being 
cut  in  the  neck  or  the  nape  of  the  beast,  out  of  which  the 
Massai  warrior  drinks  the  blood  in  full  flow,  afterwards  stuffing 
up  the  hole  with  grass.  Vegetable  diet  is  only  permitted  to  the 
married  Massais  and  the  women.  The  warrior  considers  it 
effeminate.  But  amid  the  great  plateaus,  far  from  the  borders 
of  any  tribes  who  practise  agriculture,  this  must  be  only  a  very 
Milk  diet,  rare  interruption  of  the  daily  milk  diet.  The  milk  is 
generally  eaten  sour,  in  the  form  of  curds,  when  it  certainly 
affords  a  very  wholesome  and  palatable  food. 

On  entering  a  Massai  kraal,  this  precious  beverage  is  seen 


^^' 


^  I 


THE  EL2F0RAN,   2IASSAI   WARRIORS.  227 

in  a  number  of  gourds,  standing  against  the  walls  in  the  houses, 
that  are  built  of  clay  and  cow-dung.  The  milk  is  in  various 
stages  of  sourness,  up  to  ten  days  old. 

The  Elmordn,  the  unmarried  Massai  warriors,  live  in  villages 
of  their  own  ;  with  them  are  united,  by  free-love  bonds,  the 
girls  of  the  tribe,  each  of  whom  has  a  right  to  choose  a 
lover  according  to  her  fancy.     This  is  a  new  incentive  Eimoran 
to  the  warlike  rough  spirit  of  the  Elmordn  ;  for  a  girl  ''"*s^'- 
will  choose  the  man  who  rushes  into  the  battle  with  the  greatest 
fierceness   and    temerity,    who   kills  the   greatest  number   of 
enemies,  and  brings  home  the  largest  booty  in  cattle.     Thus 
even  the  soft  impulse  of  love  impels  the  Massai  warrior  to  his 
marauding  foray,  and  when  he  creeps  along  to  the  villages  of 
the  Wasagura,  or  penetrates  into  the  streets  of  Mombassa,  he 
has  perhaps  in  his  heart  the  image  of  some  fair  one  of  the 
elevated  plains  under  the   Kenia,   to  whom   he  wishes  to  do 
honour. 

While  the  Massai  warriors  stride  along  absolutely  naked,  in 
the  right  hand  the  broad  handsome  lance,  on  the  left  arm  the 
broad    shield    adorned    with   heraldic    devices,    which  „    . 

Equipment 

covers  almost  the  whole  body,  and  perhaps  a  short  fur,  of  the 
embroidered  with  beads,  thrown  over  the  shoulder,  and 
falling  to  the  hips,  the  girls  are  clad  very  decently  in  furs, 
reaching  up  to  the  neck,  as  I  have  found  customary  among  all 
the  proud  and  warlike  tribes  of  north-eastern  Africa.  On  the 
other  hand,  the  more  slothful  and  effeminate  tribes  of  the  Bantu 
in  the  north-east  of  the  Victoria  Nyanza,  and  the  people  in 
Kawirondo,  let  their  girls  go  nude.  Soma!  is,  Gallas,  and 
Massais  prefer  keeping  the  charms  of  their  fair  ones  for 
themselves. 

Widely  different  from  this  more  poetical  relation  between 
the  sexes  in  the  kraals  of  the  Elmor4n  is  the  actual  marriage 
state  among  the  Massais.  It  is  a  mere  matter  of  pur-  jj^^^^j^^g 
chase,  which  is  managed  by  the  father  for  the  sdu,  who  among  the 
is  not  always  much  gratified  to  change  the  ireer  liie  oi 
the  Elmordn  kraal,  by  a  removal  into  the  kraal  of  the  old 
married  people.      In  contrast  with  the    impulses  of  jealousy 


228  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

which  characterise  the  relations  of  the  Elmordn  kraal,  the 
Massai  in  the  married  state  is  said  to  be  exceedingl_y  indiflferent 
with  respect  to  his  wife's  faithfulness.  To  have  as  many 
children  as  possible,  especially  sons,  in  whatever  way  it  may  be, 
is  the  chief  object  of  the  mature  man,  who  altogether,  as  far 
as  the  idea  of  possession  was  concerned,  in  his  practical  stolidity, 
reminded  me  greatly  of  our  peasants  in  the  Lower  German 
marches 

On  December  21st,  I  was  destined  to  make  the  acquaintance 
of  these  remarkable  tribes.  On  that  day  I  had  kept  the  course 
of  my  expedition  towards  the  north-north-west,  in  order  tO' 
approach,  in  some  measure,  the  mountains  that  run  from  the 
Naiwasha  Lake  northwards  ;  at  the  angle  I  hoped  to  come  upon 
A  hunting  the  Guaso  Narok.  As  I  was  pursuing  my  way,  in 
country,  advauce  of  the  column,  with  Hussein  and  two  of  my 
servants,  I  came  upon  great  herds  of  zebras,  and  with  my  gun 
I  brought  down  two.  I  left  a  servant  behind  with  the  slain 
beasts,  with  orders  for  my  column,  when  it  came  to  the  place, 
that  the  zebras  should  be  cut  up,  and  their  flesh  carried  into  the 
camp.  I  went  on  with  Hussein  only,  to  continue  the  search 
for  water,  beside  which  to  encamp.  On  the  way  Hussein 
informed  me  that  the  Somalis  did  not  care  for  zebras,  and  con- 
sequently I  promised  him  to  shoot  an  antelope  for  the  Somalis 
and  myself  Towards  eleven  o'clock  we  came  to  a  running 
stream,  which  we  afterwards  ascertained  to  be  the  Gnare  Gobit. 
After  some  difficulty  we  succeeded  in  finding  a  place  for  cross- 
ing ;  Avhereupon  I  sent  Rukua  back  to  bring  up  the  column.  I 
myself  fastened  a  piece  of  paper  to  a  tree  for  Herr  von 

Crossing  y  .  . 

the  Gnare  Tiedemauu,  with  a  request  to  pitch  the  camp  at  this 
spot,  and  then  I  continued  my  way  in  a  northern 
direction,  to  shoot  the  promised  antelope  for  Hussein.  The 
Gnare  Gobit  is  skirted  throughout  its  whole  course  by  a  strip' 
of  high  forest,  which,  however,  does  not  extend  beyond  the 
margin  of  land  fertilised  by  the  river.  In  this  strip  of  forest, 
by  the  ford  of  the  river,  the  camp  was  to  be  set  up ;  and 
through  it  we  now  strode  on  to  look  for  antelopes.  It  may 
be  about  three  hundred  feet  broad  on  the  left  side.     We  had 


2IAKING  ACQUAINTANCE   WITH  THE  2IASSAIS.  229 

not  yet  passed  through  it,   when  on  a  clearing  on  the   left 
I  suddenly  saw  great  numbers  of  oxen.      On  an  ac-  Massai 
clivity  beyond  the  forest  I  also  saw  great  herds.         ^^''^^■ 

I  called  Hussein's  attention  to  this  phenomenon,  and  he 
immediately  informed  me,  in  his  broken  English,  that  he  saw 
"  too  much  men."  These  could  be  none  but  Massais.  I  whistled 
through  my  teeth,  and  thought  we  had  better  leave  the  antelope 
hunting  alone  for  that  time.  It  would  be  more  prudent,  after 
all,  to  go  back  to  our  camping-place,  and  wait  there  for  the 
advancing  column.  We  had  scarcely  got  once  more  to  the  tree 
with  the  paper  on  it  for  Tiedemann,  when  all  at  once,  cheer- 
fully singing,  "  0  ho  !  0  ho  !  "  from  our  side  of  the  river,  and 
up  stream  and  down  stream  on  the  opposite  bank,  in  groups  of 
three  and  four,  Massai  warriors  came  pouring  in  upon  First  meet- 
us.  As  we  had  established  no  kind  of  relations  with^fg^j"' 
these  Massai  tribes,  I  ordered  Hussein  to  guard  the  warriors, 
rear,  and  presented  my  gun  at  the  group  that  was  approaching. 
I  had  laid  my  revolver  on  the  ground  beside  me,  to  have  it 
ready  at  hand.  The  Massais,  so  soon  as  they  saw  my  proceed- 
ings, laid  down  their  shields  and  spears,  and  thus  unarmed  came 
in  a  friendly  way  towards  me.  I  also  laid  down  my  rifle,  and 
the  Massai  warriors  greeted  me  with  an  amiable  "Wadsak," 
after  first,  in  token  of  their  friendly  sentiments,  spitting  at  me 
and  likewise  at  Hussein  Fara.  To  my  questions  they  answered, 
that  I  was  in  the  territory  of  Elbejeto.  In  an  instant  we  were 
surrounded  by  twelve  or  fourteen  young  slender  Massai  warriors, 
who  immediately  began  to  sing  a  monotonous  song,  aud  to 
dance  round  us  in  a  row. 

Gradually,  to  my  great  satisfaction,  my  column  came  up ; 
first  a  few  Somalis,  who  in  general  are  not  at  all  behind  the 
Massais  in  haughtiness,  and  were  accordingly  at  once  acknow- 
ledged by  them  as  equals,  whereas  no  Massai  condescended  to 
greet  one  of  my  porters.  The  Massais  endeavoured  to  frighten 
my  people,  by  exhibiting  to  them  the  effect  their  lance  thrusts 
could  produce,  and  also  that  of  their  poisoned  arrows,  a  game  of 
I  was  very  glad  to  see  that  my  Somalis  simply  laughed  '"^*^" 
at  it,  while  they  retorted  by  trying,  by  pantomimic  representa- 


230  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

tion,  to  give  the  Massais  a  notion  of  what  our  repeating  guns 
could  do. 

Suddenly  some  new  Massai  warriors  came,  with  the  request 
that  I  should  look  out  another  place  for  my  camp,  as  this 
was  the  ford  at  which  they  were  accustomed  to  water  their 
horned  cattle.  I  informed  the  Massais  that  I  did  not  feel 
inclined  to  do  this.  "You  can,  however,  drive  your 
of  trouble  cattle  to  the  ford,  although  we  are  encamped  here." 
to  come,  ^fj-gj.  g^  \oTig  hesitation  they  gave  way ;  and  so,  on 
that  morning,  everything  went  on  in  a  friendly  manner 
enough. 

I  resumed  my  interrupted  sporting  excursion    beyond  the 

forest,  ordering  four  men  of  my  following  to  go  with  me.     On 

stepping  forth  from  the  wooded  enclosure,  the  traveller  sees 

before  him  a  low  hill,   entirely  covered   with   pasture  grass, 

Avhich  runs  parallel  with  the  Gnare  Gobit,  and  gradually 

The.hief  ^  i  i 

kraal  of  shelves  away  towards  the  south-west  and  north-east. 
Eibejet.      q^  ^j^^^  j^^^^  ^^^  ^1^^  south-west  lies  the  chief  kraal  of 

Elbejet,  and  in  the  northern  slope  the  Elmordn  kraal  that 
belongs  to  it.  Further  kraals  are  also  situated  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  Gnare  Gobit,  and  towards  the  north  all  the  heights 
are  occupied  by  such  villages. 

Some  of  these  kraals  consist  only  of  huts  of  clay,  standing 
contiguous  to  one  another  in  a  circle,  and  open  on  the  inner 
side  ;  but  others  are  surrounded  outside  the  exterior  walls  of 
these  clay  huts  with  a  fence  a  yard  thick  and  three  or  four 
high,  made  of  thorns  and  underwood,  with  gates  leading  through 
Fortified  it  to  the  interior  ;  and,  according  to  African  circum- 
^^^^^^-  stances,  the  place  becomes  absolutely  impregnable  if 
well  defended.  The  Massais,  who  on  their  foraging  expeditions 
always  sleep  out  in  the  open,  trusting  only  to  their  own  vigil- 
ance, have,  in  their  own  country,  perhaps  the  best  fences  that  are 
to  be  found  in  all  Africa ;  and  herein,  again,  is  manifested  the 
practical  warlike  spirit  of  this  nation. 

On  the  declivities  of  the  hill,  by  the  Gnare  Gobit,  thousands 
of  oxen  and  sheep  were  grazing,  guarded  by  ElmorAn  warriors, 
or  by  Wandorobbo.     The  Elmoran  are  armed  only  with  lance 


INSOLENCE  OF  THE  MAS8AIS.  231 

and  shield ;  the  Wandorobho  and  the  older  Massais  with  bows 
and  arrows. 

Our  appearance  before  the  gates  of  Elbejet  naturally  pro- 
duced a  considerable  sensation.  From  all  directions  warriors 
came  hurrying  up  to  welcome  us,  and  the  Massai  girls  also 
pressed  forward,  manifesting  curiosity;  and  they,  too,  welcomed 
us  with  a  grasp  of  the  hand.  Unfortunately  I  shot  Reception 
twice  at  a  vulture  with  my  rifle,  and  missed  each  time  ;  ^*  '^^^^i^^- 
whereupon  there  arose  contemptuous  laughter,  especially  among 
the  old  Massai  women.  The  conceit  of  the  Massai  women,  with 
regard  to  their  sons,  beats  anything  one  can  ever  meet  with  in 
the  way  of  unreasoning  or  monkeylike  affection ;  and  they  are 
fond  of  showing  this  feeling  as  ostentatiously  as  possible,  by 
contemptuous  behaviour  towards  other  men. 

When  I  returned  into  camp,  towards  two  o'clock,  I  met 
some  bulls  of  the  Massais  that  had  turned  wild ;  and  from 
the  right  hand  a  few  elders  of  the  Massais  came  hastening 
towards  us.  As  one  of  the  bulls  was  preparing  for  a  hostile 
attack  upon  us,  I  stretched  him  on  the  ground  with  a  shot 
from  my  rifle ;  an  incident  which  evidently  impressed  the 
Massais  in  a  very  disagreeable  manner.  I  then  requested 
the  elders  to  follow  me  into  my  camp,  to  hold  a  conference 
with  me.  "When  we  approached  my  quarters,  I  noticed  large 
numbers  of  the  Massai  warriors  drawn  up  beneath  a  tree, 
and  about  to  regale  us  with  a  war  song.  I  knew  that  the 
sequel  of  this  would  be  their  demanding  tribute  fi-om  me, 
which  I  was  resolved  not  to  pay.  Besides,  I  had  very  vividly 
before  my  eyes  the  ill-treatment  that  Thomson  had  suffered 
at  this  very  place,  and  wished  to  clear  up  certain  matters 
between  myself  and  the  Massais  without  delay.  Accord- 
ingly I  shot  at  a  vulture  on  the  tree  under  which  p^^t^^  ^^ 
the  Massai  warriors  were  seated  ;  and  when  a  fat  elder  a  toid 

...      front. 

came  to  me  in  front  of  my  tent,  whera  I  was  sittmg  m 
an  arm-chair,  to  forbid  my  shooting,  I  twice  fired  off"  my  rifle 
over  his  head.     Then  I  at  once  gave  orders  to  my  Somalis  to 
turn  all  the  Massais  out  of  the  camp  ;  but  I  myself  followed 
them,  and  summoned  them  to  a  conference  outside  its  precincts. 


'2:V2  yKw  Liairr  on  dark  afiiica. 

As  T  could  only  speak  a  little  of  the  Massai  language  in  a 
Eukuaas  Iti'okcn  liisliiou,  the  negotiati(tns  had  to  be  conducted 
interpreter.  I |||.^iii^l^  oue  oi'  the  Kikuyu  prisoners  as  interpreter, 
for    Rnkua,   my  servant,  could   in   some   degree   make   himself 


/>^^ 


^«*' 


V\T\()-iED    B\    1  LLLS 


understood    by    that 
people. 

I  ])iop()st.d  to  the 
elders  of  the  j\Iass;iis  ~ 
that  they  should  furnish 
me  ^\ith  guide-,  as  tar  as 
the  Baringo  Lake,  and 
sell  me  a  few  donkeys.  In 
return,  I  would  give  them  the  only  load  of  iron  wire  I  possessec", 
and  also  a  few  beads,  of  which  ornaments  I  had  a  small  bag 
with  me.  We  would  mutually  secure  each  other  in  our  posses- 
sions, and  part  as  triends. 


STRAINED  RELATIONS   WITH  THE  NATIVES.  233 

"You  must  know,"  I  said,  "that  among  white  men  also 
there  are  diflferences.    Five  years  ago,  a  white  man  came  to  you, 
whose  race  differs  from  our  race  as  much  as,  for  instance,  the 
Wakikuyu  differ  from  yours.    The  white  man  who  was  .   .      ,. 
here  was  an  Englishman  (Inglese),  and  you  treated  speech  to 
him  badly  enough.     But  I  belong  to  the  race  of  the 
Germans  (Badutschi),  and  we  would  rather  die  than  submit  to 
such  treatment.     If,  therefore,  you  will  not  agree  to  all  friendly 
proposals,  you  have  only  to  tell  me  so,  and  you  can  also  have 
war  with  us."     The  Massais  thereupon  caused  it  to  be  made 
known  to  me  that,  in  the  first  instance,  I  must  pay  tribute  for 
their  young  warriors,  before  they  would  consent  to  treat  The 
further  with  me.     When  I  simply  refused  to  do  this,  decidefor 
they  rose  up  suddenly,  without  a  word  of  leave-taking,  '^*''- 
and  the  Kikuyu  man  told  me  that  now  we  should  have  war. 

I  went  into  the  camp  to  breakfast,  and  resolved  to  bring  the 
matter  to  an  issue  that  very  afternoon.  I  gave  over  the  com- 
mand of  the  camp  to  Herr  von  Tiedemann,  and  betook  myself 
with  thirty  men  to  the  chief  kraal  of  Elbejet,  to  make  sure  of 
the  intentions  of  the  Massais.  I  posted  my  people  in  a  half- 
circle  behind  me,  and  stepped  into  the  foreground  with  p^^  ^^^_ 
Rukua  and  a  Kikuyu  interpreter,  beckoning  the  elders  tions  aod 

-_-  .       -.  proposals. 

of  the  Massais  to  come  to  me.  I  now  waived  my 
demand  that  they  should  sell  us  donkeys,  and  asked  only  for  a 
guide  to  the  Baringo,  offering  to  pay  for  the  accommodation. 
The  exasperation  on  the  part  of  the  Massais,  who  had  restrained 
themselves  in  the  morning,  was  so  great,  that  several  of  the 
Elmordn  came  rushing  onward  with  levelled  lances  to  transfix 
me.  But  I  was  glad  to  find  that  my  people  replied  to  this 
demonstration  with  shouts  of  laughter.  In  fact,  two  or  three 
volleys  would  have  been  sufficient  to  lay  low  all  the  Massais 
who  were  present. 

While  I  thus  negotiated  with  the  Massais,  an  old  Massai 
woman  came  and  stood  next  to  us,  breaking  out  into  a  ^,^^^^^66- 
scornful  laugh  at  every  word  I  spoke.     I  had  her  put  ^^^^^^  ^^ 
aside  by  two  of  my  Somalis,  and  came  to  an  agreement 
with  the  elders  of  the  Massai  that  both  sides  should  keep  the 


234  XEW  LIGHT  OX  DARK  AFRICA. 

peace,  that  the)'  should  next  morning  furnish  me  with  a  guide 
to  Baringo,  for  which  service  I  was  to  pay,  and  that  they  were  to 
respect  my  property  and  I  theirs. 

IMy  Kikuyu  man  had  contributed  greatly  to  the  procuring  of 
this  agreement.  When  he  had  tried  to  intimidate  the  Massais 
by  saying,  "  You  cannot  make  war  against  the  white  man,  he 
comes  from  God.  See  !  he  leads  eleven  of  us  Wakikuyu  bound 
with  cords," — the  Massais  answered  curtly  and  proudly,  "  But 
we  are  not  ^Yakikuyu,  we  are  Massais." 

After  the  treaty  which  I  had  concluded  with  them  had  been 
sealed  by  the  spitting  ceremony,  I  went  back  to  my  camp,  with 
the  feeling  that,  diplomatically,  I  had  after  all  been  beaten  by 
Insolent  this  arrogant  Massai  elder.  My  attempt  to  make  head 
onhr°^'^  against  their  last  plans  had  failed  when  opposed  to  the 
natives.  pQJfj  arrogance  of  this  man,  whose  equal  in  imperturba- 
bility could  hardly  be  found,  and  who,  quite  at  the  close  of  the 
conference,  when  he  had  concluded  the  treaty  with  me,  ex- 
pressed his  contempt  for  my  porters,  who  were  sitting  inside  the 
enclosure,  by  stepping  up  close  in  front  of  them,  pointing  at 
them  with  a  derisive  gesture,  and  breaking  out  into  a  short 
scornful  laugh. 

He  may  probably  have  scattered  Zanzibar  caravans  often 
enough.  Firearms  do  not  in  themselves  intimidate  the  Massais 
at  all.  Even  in  the  year  1887  they  cut  down,  to  the  last  man, 
an  Arab  caravan  numbering  two  thousand  guns,  laid  all  the 
corpses  in  ranks  and  rows  side  by  side,  and  in  scorn  put  each 
man's  gun  across  his  shoulder.  Generally,  in  fact,  the  cara- 
vans fire  their  guns  once,  and  then  immediately  take  to  flight ; 
Behaviour  '^tisreupon  they  are  regularly  massacred  to  the  last 
of  Zanzibar  man  by  the  swift-footed  Massais.     The  Massai  knows 

caravans.     -.  . 

how  to  protect  himself  from  the  first  shot  by  throwing 
himself  on  the  ground,  or  sheltering  himself  behind  a  tree ;  and 
long  before  the  muzzle-loader  has  been  made  ready  for  a  second 
discharge,  he  has  come  bounding  up,  to  finish  the  matter  with  a 
thrust  of  his  lance. 

In  the  evening  I  had  four  sentries  posted  round  the  camp, 
and  towards  nine  o'clock  I  betook  myself  to  the  margin  of  the 


THE  2IASSAIS  BREAK  THEIR   CONTRAST.  235 

wood,  to   send  up  blue  and  red  rockets,  as   a   token  to   the 
Massais   that  we    were    on   the   alert.      I   heard   the  Precautions 
turmoil  and  roaring  of  the  Massais  in  both  kraals.  ^'"'^"P' 
when  I  turned  back  to  mj^  camp. 

In  the  night,  I  was  awakened  several  times  by  shots  from  my 
sentries.  When  I  enquired  the  reason,  I  was  told  that  Massais 
were  prowling  about  the  camp,  and  had  just  been  attempting  to 
steal  a  load  of  cartridges  from  it.  Already  in  this  night  the 
thought  came  into  my  mind  whether  it  would  not  be  best  to 
attack  Elbejet  without  hesitation.  As  yet  our  people  had 
beaten  all  who  had  stood  against  them  ;  but  terror  of  a  critical 
the  Massais  was  still  alive  in  the  majority  of  the  position, 
porters,  and  I  knew  very  well  that  it  was  just  the  first  result 
that  would  here  be  decisive.  I  let  the  idea  go,  however,  in  the 
hope  that  the  Massais  would  next  morning  fulfil  the  obligation 
they  had  taken  upon  themselves,  of  providing  a  guide  for  the 
journey,  and  that  I  should  be  able  to  leave  the  whole  disagree- 
able state  of  things  behind  me  by  a  rapid  march. 

When  I  rose  next  morning  it  was  reported  to  me,  in  the 
first  place,  that  the  promised  guide  had  not  come  ;  secondly, 
that,  in  spite  of  all  our  vigilance,  two  loads  of  stuff  had 
been  stolen  out  of  the  midst  of  the  camp  during  the  demon- 

s  til's.  1 10  US 

previous  night ;  and,  thirdly,  that  we  had  been  pelted 

with  arrows.     Quite  a  number  of  these  arrows  were  exhibited  to 

me  as  a  proof 

My  resolution  was  now  taken.     If  the  Massais  had  so  little 
respect  for  our  agreement  of  the  previous  day,  it  was  clear  that 
if,  after  the  kind  behaviour  I  had  exhibited  on  Saturday,  I  left 
this  breach  of  the  treaty  unpunished,  they  would  proceed  to  far 
greater  acts  of  aggression.     It  was  one  of  the  most  critical 
decisions  of  the  expedition,  and  I  asked  Herr  von  Tiedemann 
for  his  opinion.     As  he  agreed  with  me,  I  gave  him  the  order 
to  hold  thirty -five  men  ready  for  action.     Silently  we  Prepara- 
strode  onward  through  the  forest,  when  suddenly  all  l^^  the 
the  Somalis  fell  on  their  knees  at  once,  and  began  to  "*='»"• 
implore  the  protection  of  Allah  from   what  we  were  now  to 
encounter.     On  reaching  the  border  of  the  wood  we  formed  a 


236  XEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

long  line.  I  took  the  right  wing,  and  gave  the  left  to  Herr  von 
Tiedemann,Avhile  Hussein  Fara  led  the  centre.  The  black,  white, 
and  red  flag  was  carried  by  Rukua,  who  hurried  on  a  few  steps 
in  advance  of  the  line.  Thus  we  marched  rapidl}?^  to  the  north, 
directly  upon  the  kraal.  Between  the  kraal  and  ourselves  were 
a  great  number  of  cattle,  and  the  man  who  kept  them  called  out 
to  us  in  the  most  insolent  tone  to  go  round  his  herd,  or  we 
should  drive  the  beasts  away.  That  we  few  men  should  intend 
to  attack  Elbejet,  the  worthy  fellow  in  his  conceit  never  sup- 
posed, until  a  bullet  passed  through  his  ribs,  and  permanently 
silenced  his  insolent  tongue. 

On  account  of  the  cold  in  the  morning  the  Massai  are  fond 
of  sleeping  late,  and  consequently  we  completely  surprised 
Attack  on  Elbejet.  Our  fii'ing  woke  up  the  sleepers.  On  a 
Elbejet.  sudden,  the  men  came  rushing  out  of  the  gate  against 
us,  while  women  and  cattle  ran  down  the  declivity  on  the  other 
side  in  precipitate  flight.  I  was  opposed  especially  by  the 
elder  with  whom  I  had  negotiated  on  the  previous  day,  and  by 
his  following.  They  tried  to  defend  the  entrance  into  the  kraal. 
Three  of  the  elder's  arrows  flew  past  me ;  and,  for  my  part,  I 
also  missed  my  mark  twice.  My  third  bullet  crashed  through 
his  temples.  And  now  the  Massais  poured  down  the  opposite 
declivity  in  headlong  flight.  We  succeeded  in  this  first  fight 
in  killing  seven  of  them  in  all,  and,  so  fai',  we  had  not  yet 
suffered  a  single  casualty. 

I  was  now  master  of  Elbejet,  the  dominant  position  of  this 
whole  region,  and  had  also  a  herd  of  cattle  numbering  more 
Design  *^^^  *^°  thousaud  in  my  possession.  I  now  determined 
to  hold  to  send  back  a  part  of  my  company  to  the  camping- 
place  by  the  river,  and  at  once  to  bring  up  all  my 
column  to  this  capital  position.  This  resolve,  though  un- 
doubtedly judicious  in  itself,  could  not  be  carried  into  execu- 
tion, because  suddenly  the  rattling  of  musketry  sounded  from 
the  camp,  and  I  saw  that  great  bands  of  Massais  were  rushing 
Back  to  the  towards  it  from  all  sides.  If  the  camp  should  be  taken 
camp.  |jy  ^j^g  Massais,  and  our  ammunition  thus  fall  into  their 
hands,  we  were  all  of  us  lost.     Therefore,  back  to  the  camp 


.lA"^ 


A   DANGEROUS  MARCH.  237 

at  full  speed  to  guard  it.  For  my  part,  I  had  shot  away  all  my 
cartridges,  and  was  obliged  to  hasten  to  my  loads  of  ammu- 
nition. The  trumpet  gave  the  signal  for  a  retreat,  which 
was  accordingly  commenced  by  us  in  perfect  order.  For  all 
that,  in  the  course  of  it,  three  of  my  jjeople  were  laid  low  by  the 
Massais,  Nogola,  the  Mangema  elder,  being  one  of  them. 

On  arriving  in  the  camp  I  at  once  had  ammunition  served 
out — to  the  Somalis  as  many  cartridges  as  each  of  them  was 
able  to  carry  ;  for  myself  seventy -five  cartridges,  fifty  of  which 
I  entrusted  to  Rukua.  In  an  instant  the  tents  were  down,  and 
the  order  was  given  to  march  out  of  the  wood  towards  ne  order 
the  right.  I  went  on  in  advance  with  Musa  Somal,  Alo  "^  ™*'^oi^- 
Agal,  and  my  two  servants,  Rukua  and  Buana  Mku,  to  decide 
upon  the  road  for  the  column.  The  great  herds,  the  camels, 
the  donkeys,  and  women,  were  placed  in  the  centre,  and  Herr 
von  Tiedemann,  with  another  detachment  of  Somalis,  brought 
up  the  rear. 

We  had  been  marching  only  three  minutes  through  the 
forest,  some  thirty  yards  in  advance  of  the  column,  when  Alo 
Agal  suddenly  reported,  "Mimanka  brenjehei!"  (Many  men!) 
And  there  they  were  coming  on,  the  proud  Elmoran  of  the 
Massais,  like  a  great  pack  of  wolves,  in  hundreds,  pass-  ^^^^^^ 
ing  tree  by  tree  to  get  at  us.     Alo  had  scarcely  made  by  the 

,  .  n  .        n  ,n    1       1  •  1  ■  1  Elmoran. 

his  report  to  me,  when  he  fell  dead  at  my  side,  pierced 
by  an  arrow.  Rukua  and  Buana  Mku,  as  soon  as  they  saw 
what  was  coming  upon  us,  were  seized  with  a  panic,  and  fled 
precipitately  towards  the  column.  I  knew  perfectly  well  that  if 
I  did  the  same  the  Massais  would  come  thronging  after  us  with 
their  battle-cry,  and  we  should  be  defeated  and  overthrown 
in  an  instant.  Consequently  I  made  up  my  mind  to  take  up 
the  gauntlet  there  and  then  ;  and  it  was  fully  clear  to  me  that 
now  every  bullet  must  find  its  billet,  if  this  day  was  not  to 
bring  the  end  of  things  for  me,  and  perhaps  for  the  German 
Emin  Pasha  Expedition  also. 

Then  a  very  singular  combat  occurred  here  in  the  river 
forest  of  the  Gnare  Gobit.  From  tree  to  tree  the  Massais 
advanced,  but  always  with  caution,  to  cover  themselves  from 


238  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

the  bullets.  I  ma)^  say  truly,  that  for  the  next  few  minutes  I 
A  running  g^ve  up  my  life  and  all  of  us  for  lost ;  nevertheless, 
flgit-  on  noticing  the  perfect  skill  of  their  method  of  attack, 
I  could  not  suppress  a  kind  of  admiration  of  my  opponents, 
whom,  at  the  same  time,  I  mortally  hated.  Several  times  I 
succeeded  in  knocking  over  two  of  the  foremost  Massais  with 
a  double  shot ;  whereat  the  others  were  startled,  and  left  me 
time  to  load  again.  But  it  was  especially  Musa's  repeating  gun 
that  had  quite  a  remarkable  effect  upon  them.  With  the  muzzle- 
loaders  they  had  already  made  acquaintance,  but  the  system  of 
the  repeaters  must  have  appeared  to  them  supernatural,  and 
therefore  uncanny.  Meanwhile  I  was  calling  for  Hussein ;  and 
after  five  minutes  of  the  most  painful  anxiety  I  was  joyfully 
surprised  at  seeing  my  people  at  last  hastening  up  from  behind 
1  f  to  the  rescue.  A  Massai,  who  was  just  preparing  to 
reinforce-  thrust  at  me,  was  first  laid  low  by  a  bullet  in  the 
face  from  our  kitchen-boy  Fargalla  ;  and  now,  with  a 
hurrah,  I  advanced  upon  the  Massais.  At  first  they  stood  firm, 
but  gradually  they  gave  ground  ;  and  after  half  an  hour  of 
fighting  we  reached  the  margin  of  the  wood,  from  which  the 
Massais,  with  their  faces  still  turned  towards  us,  slowly  re- 
treated towards  Elbejet,  drawing  off  on  each  side. 

By  this  time  the  rear  column,  with  Herr  von  Tiedemann,  had 
also  been  attacked,  and  the  rattle  of  musketry  at  times  increased 
to  an  extent  that  was  somewhat  alarming  for  me.  Herr  von 
Tiedemann  got  into  imminent  danger  of  his  life,  by  the  sudden 
Herr  von  ^^^1^^'^  ^^  the  mcchauism  of  his  repeating  rifle,  while 
Tiedemann  the  Massais  Were  likewise  pressing  in  upon  him.  But 
the  intervention  of  the  porters — the  preliminary  fight 
having  allowed  the  time  necessary  for  bringing  them  into  line- 
very  soon  decided  the  affair  on  this  side  also  ;  and  now  I  pressed 
forward  more  and  more  upon  Elbejet,  driving  away  the  Massais 
right  and  left,  until  I  had  two-thirds  of  the  hill  in  my  power. 

The  command,  "  Misigo  miote  embele  !  "  ("  All  loads  to  the 
„.  ^  front !  "),  which  I  called  into  the  wood,  was  a  welcome 

Victory.  .  ^'  '  ^ 

signal  to  Herr  von  Tiedemann  that  the  affair  in  the  front 
had  been  decided  in  our  favoiu* ;  and  presently  there  appeared, 


BURNING   OF  TEE  ELBEJET.  239 

on  the  margin  of  the  forest,  first  my  camels,  then  the  goat- 
herds, and,  lastly,  all  the  porters  with  their  loads.  These 
loads  I  caused  to  be  laid  down,  two-thirds  of  the  way  up  the 
hill,  and  drew  up  the  people  for  the  second  attack  on  Elbejet 
itself. 

At  first  we  moved  cautiously  towards  one  of  the  gates,  in 
front  of  which  we  took  up  our  position ;  and  then  we  moved 
round  the  kraal  to  the  other  gates.     As  we  slowly  ap- 

1,    J  ii_  i  111  J      r     Second 

proacned  the  entrance  to  the  kraal  we  became  aware,  attack  on 
to   our  satisfaction,  that  Elbejet  was  abandoned.     At  ^^''^•'^*' 
the  second  attack  we  had  also  discovered  our  two  loads,  that 
had  been  stolen  the  previous  night.     Now  I  gave  orders  to  have 
Elbejet  plundered,  and  set  on  fire  at  eight  corners. 

There  were  howls  and  roars  of  rage  when  the  Massais,  who 
were  concealed  by  thousands  in  the  thicket  round  the  hill, 
beheld  what  we  intended  to  do,  and  saw  that  what  they  had 
been  accustomed  to  inflict  upon  others  was  now  for  once 
happening  to  themselves,  in  their  own  country. 

What  time  the  Advent  bells  were  calling  to  church  in 
Germany,  the  flames  were  crackling  over  the  great  kraal  on  all 
sides,  and  mounting  towards  the  heavens.  "We  felt  a  Burning  of 
short  glow  of  triumph ;  which  was,  however,  very  soon  ^^^  ^'^**^- 
removed  by  the  thought  of  what  had  now  to  be  done. 

At  the  side  where  I  had  fought,  we  found  forty- three  Massai 
corpses,  all  killed  by  bullets  in  front.  But  the  loss  of  the 
Massais  must  certainly  have  amounted  to  three  times  that 
number,  as  the  fighting  had  been  just  as  hot  in  the  rear  as  in 
front,  and  the  enemy  had  in  most  cases  been  able  to  carry  off 
their  fallen  fellow-tribesmen.  As  those  who  had  fallen  on  our 
side,  seven  in  number,  had  been  mutilated  in  a  shameful 
manner,  we  made  reprisals,  for  our  people  cut  the  heads  off  the 
.^lassai  corpses,  and  hurled  them  high  through  the  air,  and 
down  among  their  fellow-countrymen  by  the  hill  below. 

But  we  had  lost  seven  men  in  the  fight ;  a  loss  which  was 
sufficiently  grave,  considering  our  scanty  numbers.  But  much 
more  serious  was  the  fact  of  which  I  became  aware  while  the 
flames  of  Elbejet  were  soaring  up,  namely,  that  the  Somalis 


240  XEW  LIGHT   OX  DARK  AFRICA. 

had  shot  off  nine  hundred  cartridges  from  their  repeating  guns, 
and  that  consequently  I  had  only  six  hundred  cartridges  left. 
Serious  ex-  ^^6  porters,  too,  had  fired  away  quite  inordinate  quan- 
penditure   ^j^-j^.^  gf  ammunition.     In  fact,  I  could  have  exclaimed 

of  ammuni-  . 

tion.  flith    Pyrrhus,    "  One    more    such  victory,  and  1  am 

lost !  "  For  I  was  not  even  in  a  position  to  go  through  with 
a  second  fight  like  the  one  I  had  just  waged.  The  Massais  had 
only  to  keep  on  attacking  us,  and  they  would  with  mathematical 
certainty  hunt  us  to  death. 

Added  to  this,  I  Avas  entirely  without  guides  for  the  road,  and 
in  a  hostile  country  where  we  could  not  expect  to  receive  any 
information  as  to  the  whereabouts  of  water. 

It  was  eleven  in  the  forenoon.     My  column  was  to  the  last 
degree  exhausted.     Some  of  the  people  had  also  been  wounded 
with  arrows.     I  had  a  great  mind  to  encamp  up  on  the 
of  proceed-  hill  for  the  rest  of  the  day.     On  the  other  side  of  it  the 
'"^'  Elmordn  kraal  was  still  standing,  into  which  I  could 

throw  my  column.  But  in  that  case  I  should  probably  have 
had  to  fight  my  way  anew  to  water,  and,  beyond  this,  I  should 
be  exposed  to  the  far  greater  danger  of  the  Massais  drawing  re- 
inforcements from  the  neighbouring  district  of  Lashau,  so  that 
on  the  next  morning  we  should  have  a  much  more  perilous 
battle  to  fight  out  than  we  had  fought  to-day.  In  such  a 
position  as  mine,  thoughts  of  retreat  will  flash  for  a  moment 
through  a  man's  brain.  How  if  I  marched  back  to  Kikuyu, 
and  from  thence  undertook  an  advance  in  some  fresh  direction  ? 
The  sweet  peace  of  the  evenings  lately  passed  came  with 
seductive  power  before  my  soul. 

I  rejected  both  the  ideas  that  occurred  to  me,  and  at  half- 
past  eleven  gave  orders  for  marching  onward  in  a  course 
Orders  for  towards  the  north-east.  There  I  might  hope  to  find  a 
^"^  ^*'*"°®- water-course,  either  the  Gnare  Gobit  or  the  Guaso 
Xyiro.  But  the  chief  thing  was,  that  I  should  thus  get  out  of 
the  centre  of  the  infuriated  Gallas,  and  might  hope,  by  making 
a  circuit,  to  avoid  their  whole  territory. 

Forward,  therefore  !  The  great  herds  in  the  centre,  all  loads 
l^acked,    I  set  the  column  in  motion  along  the  hill.     On  the 


"THE  2IASSAIS  AGAIN  DEFEATED."  241 

opposite  side  I  first  had  the  Elmordn  kraal  set  on  fire,  and  then 
marched  in  slow  time  down  by  the  north-east  slope  of  the  hill. 
Not  a  single  nail  of  all  our  property  was  left  as  a  prize  ^^^  ^.^^^ 
to  the  Massais  ;  not  one  head  of  all  the  cattle  we  had  ran  kraai 
taken  was  left  behind.     The  Massais,  who  did  not  at 
first   understand   our    movements,   presently   set   out   on   the 
march  behind  us,  at  a  convenient  distance.      But  the  bullets 
that  we  sent  towards  them  from  time  to  time,  from  my  double 
barrel  and  from  Tiedemann's  repeater,  kept  them  far  from  the 
column. 

Towards  three  in  the  afternoon  I  succeeded  in  finding  an 
approach  to  the  river,  by  which  I  could  water  my  thirsty 
caravan,  men  and  animals.  Northward  of  this  place  I  saw  a 
hill  above  the  river  that  commanded  the  surrounding  region, 
and  here  I  would  pitch  my  camp.  I  made  towards  it  with  my 
advanced  guard,  and  found  that  it  was  occupied  by  many 
hundred  Massais.  My  nerves  were  so  relaxed,  and  the  The  Massais 
occurrences  of  the  previous  night  and  of  the  present  ^Jeir  pj^i™ 
morning  had  made  us  so  indifferent  to  danger,  that,  *""• 
without  waiting  for  the  main  column,  I  marched  forward  towards 
the  hill  with  the  few  men  I  had  with  me,  and  fired  into  the 
Somalis.  And  the  defeat  of  that  morning  had  made  such  an 
impression  upon  these  people,  that  they  rushed  from  the  place 
in  wild  flight,  and  crossed  over  to  the  right  bank  of  the  Guaso 
Nyiro. 

Above,  I  found  an  enclosure  for  cattle.  I  at  once  had 
twelve  sentries  posted  round  about  the  hill  to  watch  the 
Massais,  who  occupied  the  heights  around,  had  the  tents  pitched, 
and  established  my  column  comfortably.  Each  man  received 
permission  to  kill  as  many  beasts  as  he  liked,  and  then  ^jg^stfor 
a  terrible  slaughter  began  among  the  oxen  and  sheep,  the  black 
The  digestive  powers  of  a  negro  are  of  a  magnitude  of 
which  we  in  Europe  can  hardly  form  a  conception.  If  he  has 
one  sheep  he  eats  it  up  ;  if  several  are  given  to  him  he  makes 
them  disappear  in  the  same  manner. 

Towards  evening  I  betook  myself,  with  some  of  my  soldiers, 
to  a  ford  below  the  hill  by  the  river,  and  had  great  quantities 

16 


i!42  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

of  water  carried  up  for  the  column  for  cooking  purposes.     Not 
a  Massai  was  to  be  seen. 

Our  frame  of  mind  was  a  very  grave,  but  by  no  means  an 
unhappy  one.  Herr  von  Tiedemann  wrote  a  conclusion  to  his 
journal  on  that  day,  because  he  thought  we  should  not  outlive 
the  night.  I  also  was  of  opinion  that  the  Massais  would  attempt 
an  attack  in  force  during  the  night,  and  consequently  kept  the 
half  of  the  column  commanded  by  Herr  von  Tiedemann 

Precautions  '^ 

against  Under  arms  until  midnight,  and  the  other  half,  which  I 
surprise,  commanded,  watchedfrom  midnight  until  morning.  I 
had  outposts  pushed  far  forward,  which  were  visited  continually, 
and  watchfires  were  lighted  as  far  down  the  slopes  of  the  hill  as 
possible. 

The  night  was  pitch  dark.  Showers  of  rain  fell  at  intervals. 
I  also  caused  rockets  to  be  thrown  up,  to  show  the  Massais  that 
An  anxious  we  Were  ou  guard.  The  noise  of  these  rockets  unfor- 
"'^^*'  tunately  scared  away  a  part  of  our  herd,  on  which  we 
never  set  eyes  again. 

In  all  these  troubles  the  only  comfort  was  resignation  to  the 
unalterable  decrees  of  Providence,  and  the  conviction,  that  what- 
ever might  happen  I  had  no  need  to  give  the  hated  foe  the 
satisfaction  of  having  themselves  given  me  my  death.  In  such 
a  case  I  considered  I  should  be  fully  justified  in  reserving  my 
last  revolver  bullet  for  myself 

Before  daybreak  I  marched  away  in  a  northerly  direction. 
Whatever  we  could  not  carry  off  with  us  of  the  Massai  furniture 
March  ^®  ^^^  Captured  I  had  broken  to  pieces,  so  that  it 
along  the  should  uot  fall  again  into  the  hands  of  the  enemy.  The 
whole  morning  we  skirted  the  margin  of  the  river  in  a 
north-west  direction.  Not  a  Massai  showed  himself.  The  bound- 
less steppe  seemed  dead,  as  it  had  appeared  two  days  before. 

After  a  march  of  seven  hours,  necessarily  slow,  as  the 
herds  of  cattle  had  to  be  kept  to  right  and  left  of  the  column, 
we  came  to  a  bend  in  the  river,  where  it  turns  suddenly  towards 
the  west.  .  Here  I  found  a  ford,  on  which  I  made  the  whole 
column  cross  to  the  right  shore,  and  then  again  set  up  my  camp 
in  a  Massai  kraal  on  the  hill,  on  the  opposite  bank. 


PERILS  AND   TROUBLES ;— THE  ECLIPSE.  243 

Could  it  be  that  the  Massais  were  giving  up  the  notion  of 
taking  revenge  for  their  defeat  of  the  previous  day  ?  j,   b  f  i 
We  tried  to  persuade  ourselves  to  nourish  this  hope ;  tactics  of 
and  for  a  little  distraction  from  our  cares  Herr  von 
Tiedemann  and  I,  after  breakfasting,  sat  down  in  my  tent  to  a 
game  of  ecarte. 

Towards  five  o'clock  my  servant  came  into  the  tent  to  re- 
port, "  Massai  wanakuga  !  "  ("  The  Massais  are  coming  !  ")  We 
went  out  to  the  entrance  of  the  tent,  and,  sure  enough,  there 
they  were,  advancing  across  the  chains  of  hills  that  lay  by  the 
shore ;  marching  on  silently,  in  columns,  ever  from  east  to 
west.  A  troop  came  close  up  to  the  other  margin  of  An  attempt- 
the  river,  and  established  itself  under  a  tree  on  the  meat  frus- 
shore,  exactly  opposite  our  camp.  I  called  for  my  t"^^'***- 
rifle,  and  shot  across,  hitting  one  fellow  in  the  leg,  whereupon 
the  whole  column  incontinently  decamped. 

I  had  now  made  up  my  mind  for  the  last  and  decisive 
combat.  If  the  Massais  attacked  again,  after  their  defeat  of  the 
previous  day,  I  could  only  assume  that  all  this  was  done  in  the 
full  determination  to  destroy  our  column  at  any  cost.  That 
was  only  to  be  effected  by  simply  rushing  upon  us  regardless  of 
the  number  slain  on  their  side,  and  thrusting  us  to  death  with 
their  lances. 

Then,  suddenly,  a  thing  happened  such  as  I  had  until  then 
been  accustomed  to  read  of  only  in  romantic  pictures  of  travel. 
At  about  five  minutes  past  twelve  the  sun  all  at  once  began  to 
be  darkened.     At  first  we  did  not  ourselves  know  the  meaning 
of  this,  but  very  soon  saw  that  a  total  eclipse  of  the  An  oppor- 
sun   was   commencing   its   course.      More   and   more  ecupse  of 
deeply  did  the  gloom  spread  over  the  wide  desert  land-  ^'^^  '^°- 
scape,   out  of  which  the  Kenia  and  the  Subugu  la  Poron  yet 
reared  their   heads   threateningly  aloft.     As  though  the  earth 
would  throw  itself  once  more  into  that  chaos  and  old  night 
whence  it  issued  forth,   so  lay  the  lofty  plateau  of  Leikipia 
before  our  gazing  eyes.     The  shudder  of  the  infinite  crept  even 
into  our  hearts,  lifting  them  above  the  present,  and  the  cares 
that  were  before  us.     My  own  people  were  seized  with  terror  at 


244  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

this  sign  from  the  Godhead  which  was  being  displayed  in  the 
heavens.  So  much  does  each  individual  feel  as  if  he  were  in 
the  centre  of  the  created  world,  that  he  associates  even  the 
great  phenomena  of  nature  with  his  petty  destiny. 

The  Massais,  w^hom  I  had  allowed,  two  days  before,  to  enter- 
tain the  belief  that  I  was  commissioned  by  their  Engai,  believed, 
as  I  heard  a  few  days  later,  that  in  this  appearance  in  the  sky 
they  beheld  a  great  stroke  of  magic  of  my  effecting.  Or 
perhaps  they  thought  that  there  was  in  the  eclipse  of 
the  phe-  the  suu  a  warning  from  their  god  to  themselves.  Cer- 
on  the  tain  it  is,  that  when  the  sun  illumined  the  landscape 
assais.  ^j^pg  more,  we  saw  them  marching  away  westward,  in 
separate  bodies,  silently,  as  they  had  come ;  and  there  was  no 
attack  made  upon  us  that  evening.  Only  a  single  outpost  was 
established  on  the  hill  beyond  the  river.  The  Massais  set  fire 
to  one  of  their  own  kraals,  probably  to  warm  themselves,  and 
as  I  assumed,  to  keep  us  awake.  In  the  evening  my  servants 
waited  at  supper,  each  with  his  rifle  on  his  shoulder,  as  we  sat 
On  the  at  table,  and  I  was  again  compelled  to  keep  half  the 
alert.  column  under  arms  through  the  night.  Real  sleep 
was,  of  course,  not  to  be  thought  of. 

Next  morning  I  searched  the  valleys  by  the  river  for  hostile 
spies,  and  I  succeeded  in  starting  a  few  on  the  opposite  bank. 
I  shot  at  these  fellows,  but  without  hitting  one  of  them. 

At  six  o'clock  I  started  on  the  march,  with  the  conviction 
that  the  Massais  were  certainly  on  the  right  road  to  annihilate 
us.  They  had  only  to  keep  us  constantly  awake,  so  as  to 
Fabian  Scatter  our  nervous  power,  and  to  attack  us  from  time 
tactics       to  time,  that  we  might  shoot  away  our  cartridges,  and 

possible.        T  111  . 

there  could  be   no  question  but  that  we  should  fall 
victims  to  them  at  last. 

It  was  December  24th,  a  day  on  which  we  are  accustomed 
in  Germany  to  light  up  the  Christmas  tree.  On  this  day  we 
March  of  "^^^'^hed  until  one  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  always  in 
r^c^mber    a  north-west  direction.      On  the  march  a  number  of 

sheep  and  goats  dropped  down,  and  I  had  them  killed, 
for  I  would   not  let  them   fall   alive  into    the  hands   of  the 


JfERRY  CHRISTMAS.  245 

Massais.  My  attention  was  kept  on  the  alert  the  whole  of  this 
morning  by  Massais,  who  continually  marched  in  a  parallel 
line  with  our  expedition  on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  river.  I 
shot  across  several  times,  but  uselessly,  for  the  distance  was 
too  great. 

At  one  o'clock  I  had  the  camp  pitched  once  more  upon  a 
hill  that  commanded  a  view  of  all  the  surrounding  country,  on 
the  right  bank  of  the  Guaso  Nyiro.  I  distributed  a  load  of 
powder  among  the  bearers,  and  kept  them  casting  bullets  the 
whole  afternoon.  I  also  completed  the  supplies  of  repeating 
gun  cartridges  carried  by  the  Somalis,   so  that  each 

11-  •  .  -,  .  .  Preparing 

man  had  again  sixty  cartridges  m  his  bag.     Then  I  ammunj- 
gave  each  of  my  bearers  a  piece  of  red  cloth,  as  a  head  ^^°^' 
covering,  from  the  flag  stuffs  we  had  brought  with  us,  to  make 
their  outward  appearance  more  warlike,  and  to  imbue  them 
additionally  with  the  feeling  of  the  soldier. 

Thus  the  state  of  feeling  in  the  camp  was  one  of  consider- 
able liveliness,  and  the  cheerfulness  was  increased  when,  shortly 
before  three  o'clock,  I  succeeded  in  bringing  down,  with  a  good 
shot  at  eight  hundred  yards,  the  leader  of  the  seven  Massais, 
who  had  also  halted  on  the  further  shore  opposite  to  us. 

The  Guaso  Nyiro  flows  round  the  hill  on  which  we  lay,  in 
almost  an  exact  half-circle.  That  evening  I  established  eight 
outposts  round  the  camp,  and  again  had  fires  kindled  in  advance 
of  these. 

At  six  o'clock  we  were  at  supper,  and  something  like  a 
Christmas  feeling  came  into  our  hearts.  I  asked  Herr  von 
Tiedemann  to  keep  watch  for  a  few  hours,  and  to  wake  j^^igt^rbg^ 
me  a  little  before  midnight.  I  wanted  to  celebrate  Christmas 
Christmas  Eve  by  stretching  myself  on  my  camp  bed 
as  early  as  half-past  seven,  though  fully  dressed,  and  endeavour- 
ing to  get  a  few  hours'  sleep. 

At  ten  o'clock  I  was  awakened  by  a  shot,  which  was  fol- 
lowed by  a  whole  volley.  Directly  afterwards  I  heard  from  the 
south-south-east  the  hyena-like  battle-howl  of  the  Massais. 

The  Massais  had  advanced  from  the  north,  along  the  course 
of  the  river,  and  thought  to  surprise  our  camp  from  the  south. 


246  NEW  LIGHT  OX  DARK  AFRICA. 

They  had  come  upon  Daud  Wais,  who  kept  watch  here,  and  he 
had  at  once  knocked  one  of  them  over,  by  which  means  the 
Somalis  had  been  alarmed.  I  came  out  of  my  tent,  and,  to 
An  impend- encourage  my  men,  called  out  to  the  Massais,  "  Ka- 
ing attack.  y.[]y^^  Elmordu,  mutakufa  wiote!"  ("Come  on,  Elmordn, 
you  shall  all  die  !  " ) 

I  at  once  had  everything  in  the  way  of  camp-fires  extin- 
guished, gave  over  to  Herr  von  Tiedemann  the  command  on 
the  river  side  where  we  were  not  attacked,  and  myself  turned 
to  the  further  side,  where  the  Massais  were  howling.  I  had 
everything  we  possessed  in  the  way  of  chests  and  loads  pushed 
forward,  and  ordered  my  people  to  lie  down  behind  this  rampart, 
to  shelter  themselves  from  the  hail  of  arrows  from  without. 
Plan  of  Till  this  was  done  they  were  to  keep  up  a  partial  fire 
operations,  ^f  yoUeys  upou  the  Massais,  to  frighten  them  from 
attempting  to  storm  our  camp.  Then  I  had  rockets  brought, 
and  one  rocket  after  another  flew  hissing  up  into  the  black  sky 
of  night,  giving  just  enough  light  to  enable  our  best  shots  to 
pick  out  their  mark  among  the  threatening  figures.  A  fantastic 
picture,  which  could  not  fail  of  its  effect  upon  sensitive  nerves. 
My  people  set  up  a  rhythmical  song,  always  ending  with  the 
burden,  "  Kupkndu,  Kupkndu  Scharro  !  " 

This  night  was  indeed  a  whimsical  illustration  of  the  biblical 
text,  "  Glory  to  God  in  the  highest,  and  on  earth  peace,  good- 
will toward  men  !  "  The  crackling  of  the  rockets,  the  roaring 
of  my  own  people,  and  the  banging  of  the  shots,  together  made 
a  din  that  truly  appeared  more  consonant  with  the  Walpurgis 
night  of  the  First  of  May  than  with  the  solemn  seriousness  of 
the  celebration  of  the  birthday  of  Christ. 

Till  one  o'clock  did  the  din  continue.  Then  we  heard  the 
roaring  of  the  retreating  Massais  gradually  dying  away  in  the 
south.  On  our  side  only  one  man  had  been  wounded,  a  porter 
Eesuits  of  of  the  name  of  Boma ;  he  had  been  shot  through 
the  fight,  ^jjg  ^j.jjj  jjy  ^]^g  Somalis,  in  the  line  of  whose  fire  he 
had  foolishly  placed  himself.  The  Massais  had  had  greater 
losses,  as  was  proved  next  morning  by  numerous  pools  of  blood 
and  various  shields  that  had  been  left  behind. 


THE  GUASO  NYIRO  PLATEAUS.  247 

ThuS'  the  surprise  had  failed  ;  but  our  situation  next  morn- 
ing was  more  gloomy  than  on  the  previous  day.  The  Massais 
had  it  in  their  power  to  attack  when  they  would.  If  they  were 
beaten,  the  situation  remained  for  them  unaltered.  But  continued 
if  we  were  only  once  beaten  we  were  all  of  us  lost.  **''&«'^- 
Added  to  this  was  the  fact  that  for  four  nights  I  had  been  with- 
out real  sleep. 

Towards  sunrise  I  started  once  more  with  my  exhausted 
column.  I  marched  onward,  for  an  hour,  along  the  right  bank 
of  the  Guaso  Nyiro,  which  I  then  crossed  by  a  ford.  I  wished 
on  that  day  to  try  and  make  an  advance  in  a  more  westerly 
direction  across  the  steppe,  as  I  could  not  know  at  all  whither 
the  Guaso  Nyiro  would  lead  me. 

"We  were  now  away  from  the  districts  that  are  touched  by 
the  winds  which  sweep  down  from  the  Kenia.  We  came  into 
completely  dried-up  plateaus,  which  had  been  burnt  by  the 
Massais  only  a  short  time  before.  The  plains  which  south- 
ward of  the  Leikipia  appear  slightly  undulating,  here  exhibit 
themselves   in  a    more    massive  and   compact  form.  ^   ^ 

r  Features 

They  are  real  border  plateaus,  of  which  the  one  that  of  the 
is  placed  higher  always  leans  steeply  towards  the  lower 
one,  forming  to  a  certain  extent  a  fringe.     In  the  north,  pecu- 
liarly-formed groups  of  stone  are  found  on  these  plains,  and  give 
the  landscape  a  strange  and  remarkable  appearance. 

The  wind,  whistling  in  a  ghostly  manner  from  the  north 
over  the  dreary  steppe,  whirled  up  columns  of  ashes,  that  went 
sweeping  across  the  plain,  visible  from  afar  like  forms  from 
the  shades  below.  The  north  wind  droned  or  rather  sighed 
through  the  half-burnt  flute  trees,  in  melancholy  fashion,  a 
spectral  tune  to  the  procession  of  these  phantoms  of  ashes. 

A  feeling  of  infinite  desolation  and  solitariness  fell  upon 
our  hearts,  when,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Guaso  Nyiro,  we 
had  climbed  to  these  plateaus.  The  black  expanse  seemed  to 
stretch  out  to  infinity.  Nowhere  a  river  course  or  a  M-ater 
pool  to  be  seen.  Here  and  there  on  the  horizon  forms  of 
Massais  emerged,  to  disappear  again  so  soon  as  I  fired  my 
far-carrying  double-barrelled  rifle  at  them. 


1!48  XEW  LIGHT  OX  DARK  AFRICA. 

So  Ave  went  onward  continually  in  a  north-west  direction, 
till  the  sun  shone  perpendicularly  down.  Then  suddenly  fresh 
green  shone  before  us,  and  there  was  a  decided  declination  in 
the  plateau.  Could  it  be  that  we  had  a  stream  of 
concerning  Water  before  us  ?  Alas,  no  !  An  anxious  and  accurate 
■water.  investigation  brought  the  certainty  that  the  declivity 
was  dry,  and  there  seemed  to  be  no  water  far  and  wide. 

Nature  confronts  us  here  in  all  her  bitter  cruelty ;  and  thus 
brought  face  to  face  with  iron  necessity,  to  hold-discourse  only  with 
inexorable  fate,  the  soul  is  ready  to  sink  into  despair.  If  there  is 
no  water  here,  we  all  run  the  risk  of  dying  of  thirst  on  our  further 
advance.  Therefore,  "  Back  to  the  river !  "  was  the  command. 
And  from  our  north-west  course  we  deviated  towards  the  east. 

We  marched  on  for  two  hours  more.  Then  all  at  once  we 
saw  the  Guaso  Nyiro  again  before  us.  At  least  for  this  after- 
noon we  have  water ! 

Suddenly     Rukua    reports,    "Massai     Tele!"      ("Many 
Massais  !  ")   True  enough,  all  the  hills  are  covered  with  figures! 
Then  there  must  be  more  fightins;. 

Beappear-  ~  ~ 

anceof  the  I  say,  "  Then  we  will  beat  the  Massais  here  !  "  But 
Rukua  drew  my  attention  to  an  enclosure  by  the  river, 
into  which  we  could  drive  our  herds,  and  where  we  should  have 
better  prospects  for  the  fight. 

Forward  then  !  In  with  the  herds  into  the  enclosure,  which 
is  at  once  shut.  "  Bunduke  teare  ?  "  ("  The  guns  ready  .?•")  I 
cry  to  my  people.     "  Teare,"  is  the  reply  of  all. 

So  we  wait  for  the  decisive  combat,  perhaps  with  a  secret 
M'ish  that  it  may  put  a  period  to  our  troubles. 

But  not  a  Massai  appears.  Suddenly  an  old  Massai  woman 
approaches,  waving  the  bunch  of  grass. 

"What  is  that?"  I  say. 

"  The  Massais  want  peace,"  the  Wakikuyu  tell  me  in  reply. 

Perhaps  I  never  approached  a  lady  with  greater  eagerness 
Pacific  over-  than  I  now  displayed,  with  an  expenditure  of  all  my 
tures.  gallantry,  towards  this  repulsive-looking  old  Massai 
woman.  I  also  caught  up  a  bunch  of  grass,  and  took  care  that 
there  should  be  a  flower  among  it.     I  came  forward  as  grace- 


THE   ^^AfiSAIii   IXriTE   A    PARLEY. 


249 


I'uUy  as  possible  towards  the  lady,  and  seized  her  by  the  hand, 
to  induce  her  to  seat  herself  beside  me. 


Peace  Proposals  proii  the  Massais. 


The  confabulation  was  soon  in  progress.  I  heard  that  the 
Massais  wished  to  have  peace  with  me,  provided  I  would  refrain 
from  burning  any  more  of  their  villages,  sliooting  at  them,  or 
carrying  off  their  herds. 


250  .VEir  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

I  replied  to  the  Massai  woman  that  I  was  quite  ready  to 
promise  this,  if  the  Massais  would  furnish  me  with  guides  to  the 
Dialogue  Baringo.  "  But,"  said  I,  "  whither  does  this  river  run 
MaLl  am-  heside  which  we  are  now  ?  " 

bassadress.  gj^g  indicated  that  the  Guaso  Nyiro,  in  the  first 
instance,  flowed  on  to  the  north,  but  that  northward  of  the 
Endika  Mountains  it  turned  towards  the  east. 

"  How  far  is  the  Guaso  Narok  from  here  ?  " 

"  About  a  day  and  a  half,  if  you  follow  the  Guaso  Nyiro  ; 
one  day,  if  you  march  across  to  the  Guaso  Narok." 

"  And  where  does  the  Guaso  Narok  come  from  ?  " 

She  pointed  in  the  direction  towards  the  Baringo. 

"  How  far  is  the  Baringo  lake  from  here  ?  " 

"  Five  days,  if  you  march  well." 

"  Do  Massais  live  there,  too  ?  " 

"The  Massais  live  everywhere,"  she  answered. 

"  Surely  it  is  not  the  custom  with  you  for  women  to  decide 
concerning  peace  and  war  ?  If  the  Massais  wish  to  have  peace 
with  me,  let  them  send  to  me  men  of  their  tribe,  to  whom  I 
can  give  presents,  and  with  whom  we  will  conclude  the  treaty 
of  peace  in  due  form." 

She  promised  that  towards  evening  eleven  men  of  the 
Massais  should  come  to  me  into  the  camp  ;  and  so  went  away, 
with  a  ring  on  her  finger  that  I  had  put  there,  and  with  the 
flowers  in  her  hand,  to  carry  the  message  of  peace  to  her 
tribe. 

At  the  dinner  which  now  followed,  I  took  the  oppor- 
Arthur  tuuity  of  delivering  a  short  address  to  Herr  von 
hauer'T"  Tiedemauu  on  Arthur  Schopenhauer's  negativity  of 
philosophy,  ^-j^g  perception  of  pleasure.  After  all,  it  seemed  that 
the  Christmas  message  was  to  find  its  fulfilment  with  us. 
A  costlier  Christmas  present  even  Europe  could  not  have 
offered  us. 

Unfortunately,  on  this  day,  for  the  first  time,  the  early 
symptoms  appeared  in  Herr  von  Tiedemann  of  a  serious  disease, 
dysentery,  by  which  he  was  attacked  two  days  later. 

I  have  forgotten  to  mention  that  since  our  departure  from 


A    CONFERENCE,  AND  A    TREATY.  251 

Kikuyu  we  had  no  longer  vegetable  food,  but  had  to  confine 
ourselves  entirely  to  a  flesh  diet.  To  this  were  added  the  cold 
nights  and  the  exciting  incidents  ;  the  result  being  that  several 
cases  of  illness  occurred  among  my  people. 

At  six  o'clock  in  the  evening  eleven  Massais  appeared,  but 
did  not  venture  to  come  into  our  camp.  I  did  not  feel  inclined 
to  expose  myself  unarmed  to  their  lances,  as  I  knew  well  enough 
the  malignity  of  these  fellows.  So  I  took  a  few  people  with  me 
armed  with  rifles,  which  were  laid  down  in  a  demonstrative 
manner,  while  I  requested  the  Massais  to  do  the  same  on  their 
side,  and  to  meet  me  at  a  spot  half  way  between  the  a  treaty  of 
two  piles  of  weapons.  This  was  done,  and  conditions  p®*"*' 
of  peace  were  at  once  settled  by  both  sides  on  the  basis  of  the 
agreement  of  the  afternoon,  and  ratified  by  the  men  mutually 
spitting  at  each  other  three  times.  I  then  gave  a  finger  ring 
and  a  few  beads  to  each  of  the  Massais,  and  in  token  that  our 
tribe  and  theirs  would  live  in  friendship  and  peace  together  I 
killed  one  of  the  sheep  I  had  myself  taken  from  the  Massais,  and 
gave  it  to  them.  They  asked  permission  to  sleep  that  night  in 
the  camp ;  but  this  I  cautiously  declined,  telling  them  it 
would  be  better  if  they  slept  some  distance  away.  If  they  came 
to  the  camp  at  night,  my  sentries  had  orders  to  fire  at  ^^^^^^^^  g^, 
them.     I  was  the  more  cautious,  iust  because  we  had  eluded  from 

''  .  -f  the  camp. 

made  peace,  and  instead  of  the  usual  eight  outposts  1 
doubled  them  that  night.     I  also  remained,  the  greater  part  of 
the  night,  sitting  on  my  chair,  in  front  of  my  tent,  in  the  open 
air ;  on  such  occasions  I  was  accustomed  to  make  astronomical 
observations  with  Hussein  Fara. 

Next  morning  the  Massais  duly  made  their  appearance, 
ostensibly  to  fulfil  the  part  they  had  undertaken  of  the  contract, 
by  leading  us  to  the  Baringo.  The  negotiations  with  them 
continued  to  be  conducted  by  a  very  worthy  young  our  Kikuyu 
Kikuyu  man,  who  looked  so  strikingly  like  old  Vol-  " 
taire,  that  I  had  bestowed  upon  him  that  name,  which  at  once 
became  popular  with  my  expedition  and  among  the  Massais. 

The  Kikuyu  people  began  to  feel  very  comfortable  with  the 
column.     First  of  all,  it  had  been  a  matter  of  great  rejoicing  to 


2.32  XEW  LIGHT  OX  DARK  AFRICA. 

them  to  see  their  deadly  enemies,   the  haughty  Massais,  so 

thoroughly  beaten.     Then  they  feasted  to  their  hearts'  content 

on  the  number  of  sheep  and  goats  I  caused  to  be  given  to  them. 

Thev  do   not  slaughter  these  creatures,   but  strangle 

TheKikuyu  •'  ,  n?      n         t  i        i  •  •        xi        xi     i 

mode  of  kiii-them,  SO  that  all  the  blood  remams  in  the  flesh, 
mg  cattle,  gig^^^gj^^gj-gfj   j^g^t   ^g   j^gt   as   detestable   to  them  as 

strangled  beasts  would  be  to  us.  The  sight  of  one  of  them 
holding  a  sheep  or  a  goat  by  the  throat,  and  choking  it  to  death, 
always  struck  me  as  something  completely  disgusting. 

Quitting  the  river,  we  now  again  ascended  the  elevated 
plateau  to  the  left,  on  which  we  moved  forward,  still  keeping  a 
north-west  direction.  Soon,  there  came  in  sight  to  the  west- 
west-north-west  the  long  ranges  which,  the  Massais  informed  us, 
Avere  called  the  Subugu  la  Baringo  (Subugu  signifying  a  fringe 
of  mountains).     That,  therefore,  must  be  the  Dongo 

The  Dbngo  ^  ^ 

Geiesha  Gelesha.  On  the  plateau  we  found  great  herds  of 
*"^*"  Massai  cattle,  and  for  the  sake  of  peace  and  quietness 
I  willingly  consented  to  halt  until  the  Massais  had  driven  these 
away  from  our,  to  them,  unwelcome  vicinity.  When  this  had 
been  done,  young  Massai  warriors  hastened  up  to  us  to  greet 
us  with  the  usual  salutations  of  "  Sotua  "  (friend).  All  this 
had  a  very  pleasant  appearance. 

Towards  noon  we  descended  from  the  plateau,  to  the  right, 
to  a  dry  river-bed,  and  came  upon  an  entirely  black  volcanic 
region.  The  name  Guaso  Narok  signifies  in  the  Massai  lan- 
guage Black  River,  because  it  flows  over  black  stones  ;  for  me, 
therefore,  this  dark  ground  was  a  satisfactory  sign  that  we  were 
The'Teiekii'eally  approaching  the  river.  A  dark,  high-towering 
Rock.  •  volcanic  group  of  rocks,  that  we  left  on  our  right  between 
the  afiiuence  of  the  Guaso  Narok  and  the  Guaso  Nyiro,  I  called 
the  "  Teleki  Rock,"  after  my  forerunner  on  the  Guaso  Nyiro 
territory. 

The  heat  upon  the  black  stones  began  to  be  disagreeable. 
We  now  came  upon  a  broad  sheep  track.  The  Massais  informed 
me  that  I  had  only  to  follow  this  track,  and  I  should  reach  the 
Guaso  Narok  in  an  hour.  In  the  meantime,  they  said,  they 
Avould  go  to  their  houses  to  get  provisions.     So  I  went  on  with 


?^i«a; 


THE  MASSAIS  RELAPSE.  253 

Hussein  and  Rukua,  in  front  of  the  column,  in  search  of  the 
Guaso  Narok. 

The  behaviour  of  the  native  population  entirely  changed  in 
these  mid-day  hours,  inasmuch  as  all  we  saw  hurried 
away  from  us  in  an  altogether  inexplicable  flight.     All  in  nativT 
this  was  very  suspicious.  behaviour. 

Towards  two  o'clock  I  found  eight  donkeys  and  a  loaded  ox. 
They  had  been  abandoned  by  their  masters,  and  were  carrying 
household  implements  and  milk.  Following  up  the  ox  spoor,  I 
came  into  a  narrow  valley.  By  this  time  it  was  three  The  narrow 
o'clock,  and  the  affair  began  to  be  very  serious,  i^aiiey. 
resolved  to  halt  and  await  my  column,  but  meanwhile  to  send 
out  Hussein  and  another  Somali,  who  had  come  up,  to  ascertain 
if  the  course  of  the  Guaso  Narok  was  to  be  found  in  a  long 
valley  that  opened  before  us.  The  messengers  had  not  yet 
returned,  when  suddenly  the  rattling  of  musketry  sounded 
behind  me. 

All  at  once  the  surrounding  heights  were  covered  with 
Massai  warriors.  Now  all  was  explained.  I  had  the  loads  at 
once  deposited  together,  and  commanded  fifteen  porters, 
who  had  arrived  in  the  meantime,  to  go  back  with  me.  pearance  of 
But  my  people  had  become  so  tired  and  stiff  through 
the  burning  march  that  I  could  not  get  six  men  together.  So 
I  hurried  back  myself,  accompanied  only  by  one  Somali,  to  see 
what  had  happened. 

Directly  afterwards,  I  met  Herr  von  Tiedemann  with  the 
camel-driver.  He  reported  that  our  Massais  of  the  evening 
before  had,  on  a  sudden,  treacherously  stabbed  our  sick  porter 
Saburi.  They  had,  indeed,  been  at  once  scared  away  by  himself 
and  the  Somalis,  but  Saburi  had  expired  in  terrible  agony.  So 
the  racket  was  all  to  begin  afresh  !  Exhausted  as  I  had  before 
felt,  I  was  filled  with  such  rage  at  the  thought  of  the  dastardly 
assassination,  and,  at  the  same  time,  with  such  contempt  for  these 
Massais,  that  the  idea  of  fighting  them  was  altogether  agreeable 
to  me. 

"  Forward  !  Drive  the  donkeys  to  the  porters  !  "  I  cried  to 
the  Somalis,  when  I  saw  the  eight  Massai  donkeys  still  standing 


254  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

there,  that  I  had  till  now  refrained  from  taking.  "  Let  us  kill 
the  cowardly  rascals  like  dogs  !  "  The  Somalis  were  not 
somaiis  dis- exactly  edified  by  this  prospect,  nor  could  they  under- 
courage  .  ^^^^^^  ^^y  indignation  at  the  tactics  of  the  Massais, 
which  seemed  to  them  entirely  justifiable,  as  the  blood  spilling 
of  December  22nd  had  not  yet  been  expiated.  However,  I  suc- 
ceeded in  seizing  five  of  the  donkeys  ;  a  very  welcome  booty  for 
the  overladen  column. 

When  I  got  back  to  the  resting-place  Hussein  reported  to 
me  that  the  long  valley  before  us  was  dry.  On  the  right  hand, 
joining  it  at  right  angles,  there  was  certainly  a  river  course, 
but  it  contained  not  a  drop  of  water. 

Here  lay  the  real  danger !  Judging  by  all  that  had  hap- 
pened, I  was  obliged  to  consider  that  I  had  been  completely  over- 
reached by  the  Massais.  The  thermometer  stood  at  about  50°  C. 
(122°  F.).  We  were  steaming  with  the  glowing  heat.  Our  dry 
tongues  clave  to  the  roofs  of  our  mouths.  And  here  we  lay, 
.  ,. ,        surrounded  by  hostile  warriors,  who  only  awaited  the 

A  distress-  -'  /  •' 

fui  predioa-  moment  when  we  appeared  entirely  exhausted  to  make 
an  attack  upon  us.  In  such  moments  Nature  assumes 
something  of  an  unpitying,  even  of  a  cruel  character,  as  I  once 
experienced  in  the  English  Channel,  where  I  was  hurled  down 
by  the  raging  billows,  apparently  to  inevitable  destruction. 
There  is  no  deliverance  from  without ;  a  man  feels  unsparingly 
thrown  back  upon  himself.  But  it  is  just  in  such  positions 
that  the  despairing  heart  is  suddenly  penetrated  with  the 
thorough  conviction  of  a  protecting  Providence.  Even  separate 
resolves  then  appear  like  inspirations  from  above. 

Thus  it  was  with  me  at  that  moment.  All  at  once  the 
thought  thrilled  through  me,  that  if  I  hurried  forward  over  a 
declivity  in  the  west  of  the  neighbouring  valley  I  should  find 
A  sudden  Water.  Therefore  forward  !  "  Blow  the  trumpet !  Beat 
inspiration,  ^^g  drum !  The  flag  in  advance,  and  away  with  the 
Massais  !  "  An  impression,  as  of  the  supernatural,  must  have 
been  made  upon  these  Massais,  who  were  watching  us  on  all 
sides,  when  they  saw  us  make  this  sudden  movement,  exactly  in 
the  direction  in  which  water  really  lay.     There  was  no  real 


WATER  A   PARAMOUNT  NECESSITY.  255 

resistance  on  their  part,  when  we  suddenly  turned  oif  at  a  right 
angle  from  our  road.  Whatever  men  showed  themselves  on  the 
rocks  were  at  once  shot  down,  and  thus  we  started  off  on  a 
march  for  life  or  death  towards  the  west. 

Behind  us  the  Massais  followed  like  hyenas ;  but  they 
cautiously  kept  out  of  gunshot.  Now  and  then  I  heard  the 
sound  of  the  guns  echoing  from  the  hills  in  front  of  me  or  behind 
me,  just  as  the  double  crack  of  my  rifle  was  heard  by  the  rear. 
But  what  did  we  all  care,  at  that  moment,  for  the  Massais  .P 
Within  us  there  was  a  cry  for  water,  water  !  Yonder 
a  river  course  becomes  visible.  "  Webigi !  "  cried  the  disappoint- 
Somalis.  "  Madgi !  "  cried  the  porters.  We  came  up 
to  it,  and — ^the  watercourse  was  empty !  It  was  evidently  the 
same  that  Hussein  had  already  seen  lower  down. 

The  sun  is  sinking  low  !  It  is  four  in  the  afternoon  !  What 
is  to  be  done  ? 

"  We  will  cross  over  the  next  row  of  heights,  to  see  if  we 
can  perhaps  find  water  on  the  other  side  ! "  I  called  out  to 
Hussein  and  Musa,  who,  with  me,  formed  the  advanced  guard. 
Onward,  therefore  !  When  I  had  climbed  half-way  up  the  hill, 
Tiedemann  came  hurrying  up,  calling  to  me  from  below, 
"  Come  back,  Doctor ;  the  Massais  are  attacking  us  from  the 
rear!"  "Then  do  you  beat  back  the  Massais;  I  shall  search 
for  water." 

Aloft  on  the  height  stood  a  broad  Massai  kraal,  near  which 
a  man  was  sitting.  Like  wolves  we  sprang  upon  him ;  the 
Somalis  seized  him,  and  I  held  the  muzzle  of  my  six-  . 

'  ■'  An  oppor- 

chambered  revolver  to  his  temples.     "  Show  me  the  tune 
Guaso  Narok,  or  depart  into  the  world  below."     "Guaso 
Narok,"  he  answered,   trembling   with    fear;    "Guaso   Narok 
hana  "  ("Guaso  Narok  there"),  pointing  with  his  hand  to  the 
valley  below.     It  was  an  Andorobbo  who  gave  us  this  joyful 
news.     I  believe  that  no  angel's  voice  could  at  that  moment 
have  inspired  me  to  offer  more  sincere  thanks  to  the  Thankful 
Highest.     "Who  saved  me  from  death,  from  slavery!  feelings. 
Hast  Thou  not  Thyself  accomplished  everything,  holy,  glowing 
heart  ?  "     Ah  !  how  humbly,  on  this  evening  of  December  26th, 


256  XEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

did  I  put  away  from  me  anj'  such  expression  of  Titanic  daring  [ 
How  devoutly  did  I  bend  before  that  mysterious  Power  that 
shapes  the  fate  of  men,  and  had  once  more  saved  us  from 
perishing  miserably ! 

Gradually  the  porters  came  dropping  in,  and  I  at  once  sent 
twenty -five  of  them,  with  a  suitable  military  escort,  down  to 
the  river  with  the  Andorobbo  to  bring  water.  Then  Herr  von 
Tiedemann  came  in.  I  had  sat  down  in  my  arm-chair  at  the 
entrance  to  the  kraal,  had  already  quenched  my  thirst  from  the 
Jo  fuimeet  -^wdorobbo's  jug,  and  was  smoking  a  pipe.  "Well, 
ing  with  Herr  von  Tiedemann,  a  little  tired  ?  "  "  Water ;  have 
we  any  water .P"  "Water,"  I  rejoined,  with  feigned 
indifference,  "  why  should  we  not  have  water  ?  Down  yonder 
is  the  Guaso  Narok.  Meanwhile  do  you  take  this,"  and  I 
handed  him  the  jug  by  my  side,  "  or  would  you  like  a  mouthful 
of  brandy  with  it  ?  "  Herr  von  Tiedemann  seized  my  hand  with 
both  his  own.  "  Thank  God  !  Then  we  shall  perhaps  get  to 
Lake  Baringo  after  all." 

I  threw  my  column  of  porters  and  the  herd  of  cattle  into 
the  Massai  kraal,  which  I  made  defensible  by  burning  a 
few  of  the  outlying  buildings.  Our  tents,  and  that  of  the 
Somalis,  I  caused  to  be  erected  outside.  I  again  established 
eight  outposts,  as  the  camp-fires  of  the  Massais  glared 
A  comfort-  threateningly  down  from  all  the  hills  around.  At 
able  supper.  ^^^^  o'clock  we  Were  sitting  comfortably  in  the 
moonlight  over  a  mutton  cutlet,  with  cognac  and  water,  and 
I  had  once  more  an  opportunity  of  explaining  to  Herr  von 
Tiedemann  Schopenhauer's  theory  of  the  negativity  of  pleasur- 
able sensations. 

This  night  I  had,  for  the  first  time  since  many  days,  a 
lengthened  sleep,  and  I  made  my  servant  Rukua  lie  down 
before  the  door  of  the  tent ;  and  the  Somalis  had  assured 
me  that,  for  their  part,  they  would  keep  the  sentries  suffi- 
ciently awake.  I  had  also  arranged  that  the  column  should 
not  take  the  road  next  morning  until  half-past  six  ;  and  so 
I  woke  up,  on  December  27th,  refreshed,  and  like  a  new 
man. 


MARCH  ACROSS   THE  STEPPE.  257 

Unhappily,  such  was  not  the  case  with  Herr  von  Tiedemann. 
On  the  preceding  night  he  had  not  heen  ahle  to  sleep,  Herr  von 
and   on   that   morning    dysentery   definitely   declared  mann's 

itself.  illiiess- 

Towards  seven  o'clock,  with  my  herd  and  my  whole  column, 
I  crossed  the  Guaso  Narok,  which  rushed  below  clear  and  fresh 
over  the  rocks. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  a  few  Wandorohbo  came 
towards  me,  and  informed  me  that  the  donkeys  which  I  had 
taken  away  on  the  previous  day  belonged  to  them.  As  they 
were  not,  however,  able  to  bring  any  proof  of  this  statement,  I 
rejected  it  as  "unfounded."  On  their  part  they  declined  my 
proposition  that  they  should  approach  a  little  nearer,  to  dis- 
course with  me  concerning  the  way  to  the  Baringo. 

Amid  enormous  difficulties,  partly  through  hard  and  thorny 
thickets,  we  got  to  the  summit  towards  nine  o'clock.     Before 
us  lay  a  black,  charred  steppe,  over  which  the  north  Difficult 
wind  swept,  while  a  deserted  Massai  kraal  appeared  ™ross  the 
here  and  there.     When  we  looked  down  the  slope  we  ^*«pp«- 
had  climbed  the  eye  could  follow,  to  an  apparently  immeasur- 
able distance,  the  course  of  the  Guaso  Narok,  bending  off  towards 
the  south-west,  and  behind  it,  in  the  far  distance,  the  slopes  of 
the  Elbejet  district. 

We  now  advanced  in  a  west-north-west  direction.  Of 
Massais  not  a  trace  was  to  be  seen.  All  kraals  were  empty. 
Until  one  o'clock  I  marched,  according  to  the  compass,  exactly 
keeping  the  direction  I  had  taken.  Soon  it  was  reported  to  me 
that  the  herd  could  no  longer  follow,  and  that  a  part  of  it  had 
already  given  in  on  the  way.  This  compelled  me  to  a  compui- 
halt  to  draw  the  column  together  again.  I  gave  the  ^oryhait. 
people  half  an  hour  s  rest,  and  intended  then  to  go  on  until 
the  evening.  But  Herr  von  Tiedemann  reported  to  me  that  he 
was  ill,  and  would  not  be  able  to  make  a  forced  march  of  this 
kind.     Of  course,  this  decided  the  matter. 

I  had  had  the  plateau  inspected,  far  in  advance,  by  Rukua. 
\A  hen  he  came  back  at  two  o'clock,  with  the  announcement  that 
water  was  nowhere  to  be  found,  I  gave  up  the  advance  I  had 

17 


258  XEW  LIGHT   OX  DARK  AFRICA. 

l)]annecl,  and  turned  in  a  southerly  direction  towards  the  Guaso 
Narok. 

At  four  o'clock,  hastening  on  far  in  advance  of  my  column, 

I  came  upon  a  deserted  Massai  kraal,  in  which  I  hoisted  our 

flasj,  and  took  possession  of  it  for  our  use.     It  was  soon 

Hoisting  ~  ^  i 

the  German  cleaned  up  by  my  people,  and  by  a  little  help  put  in  a 
^^^'  condition  of  defence.     So  soon  as  Herr  von  Tiedemann 

was  established  there,  I  went  off  with  a  few  of  my  people  in  a 
southern  direction  in  search  of  water. 

At  about  five  o'clock  we  found  a  pool  of  water  among  some 
boulders  of  stone,  and  the  whole  column  was  able  to  cook  some- 
thing for  supper. 

That  night  I  found  it  only  necessary  to  establish  three  posts 
around  the  kraal,  and  for  the  second  time  I  had  a  healthy 
sleep,  as  we  were  in  perfect  safety  within  our  enclosure,  sup- 
posing an  efficient  watch  to  be  kept. 

For  December  28th  I  resolved  to  give  the  exceedingly 
exhausted  column,  and  especially  Herr  von  Tiedemann,  a  day's 
rest.  I  confined  myself  to  removing  the  camp  some  distance 
nearer  to  the  water  we  had  discovered  the  evening  before,  and 
Fortifying  again  threw  the  column  into  a  strong  Massai  kraal, 
the  camp.  ^]^ig]^^  \yy  burning  the  outworks  and  strengthening  the 
enclosure,  I  converted  into  a  perfectly  impregnable  fortress. 

It  was  grey,  dreary  weather,  and  of  the  Massais  there  was  not 
a  trace  to  be  seen  by  day  or  night.  But  the  disquieting  circum- 
stance was,  that  regularly  by  night  their  camp-fires  gleamed 
upon  the  neighbouring  hills  ;  a  sign  that  now,  as  ever,  they 
were  prowling  like  hyenas  round  our  column  by  night,  and  that 
the  greatest  caution  must  be  our  permanent  rule. 

As  Herr  von  Tiedemann  was  now  confined  to  his  bed,  I  was 
more  than  before  compelled  to  depend  upon  myself;  and  in  these 
weeks  I  found  comfort  in  reading  Carlyle's  "  Frederick  II.," 
whose  shining  example  now  wrought  its  effect  in  troublous 
times,  even  in  the  distant  Leikipia  plateaus. 

On  December  29th  we  again  pressed  forward,  through  a 
tolerably  dense  woodland  thicket,  to  the  Guaso  Narok,  whose 
course  I  now  followed,   throughout  a  somewhat  severe  day's 


SUBUGU  LA    PORON.  259 

march,  ever  towards  the  south-west.  The  Kenia  still  reared  its 
height  behind  us  in  the  south-east.  The  mountain,  Avhich  had 
been  my  delight  a  few  weeks  ago,  had  now  a  very  „    ,  , 

-,  •  m-  11  March,  by 

depressmg  effect  upon  us  all.     We  did  not  want  to  see  the  Guaso 
it  any  more,  because  we  had  suffered  so  much  on  its 
declivities.     But  immovably  it  looked  down  upon  us.     What 
cared  he,  the  mighty  Kenia,  apparently  created  for  eternity — 
what  cared  he  for  the  petty  movements  of  human  suffering  ? 

Wherever  we  now  came  the  Massais  had  fled  before  our 
expedition.  The  kraals  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Guaso 
Narok  were  likewise  all  of  them  deserted,  though  ^he  massais 
they  exhibited  traces  of  quite  recent  occupation ;  for  soared, 
instance,  smoking  fires.  This  was  a  very  satisfactory  indication. 
On  the  other  hand,  our  caravan  was  again  attacked  on  December 
29th  by  a  stupid  rhinoceros,  until  a  ball  from  my  rifle  caused 
it  to  deviate  from  its  course  towards  us,  and  after  running 
furiously  round  in  a  circle,  to  take  to  flight  towards  the  north. 
Unfortunately,  a  number  of  our  people  let  themselves  be  carried 
away  by  excitement,  and  sent  a  quantity  of  powder  and  ball 
rattling  uselessly  behind  it. 

At  one  o'clock  I  again  established  my  column  in  a  Massai 
kraal,  which  lay  exactly  to  the  north  of  the  Subugu  la  Poron,  a 
mountain  that  had  here  just  the  appearance  of  the  Kenia.  To 
my  joy,  the  Kenia  on  this  day  began  to  glimmer  blue,  while 
on  the  western  side  the  boundary  mountains  of  the  Leikipia 
plateau  stood  out  more  sharply.  If  the  eternal  flesh  diet,  with- 
out any  vegetable  additions,  had  not  begun  to  become  improved 
disagreeable  to  us,  our  position  might  by  degrees  have  pi^ospects. 
taken  the  character  of  comfort,  for  we  had  gradually  become 
accustomed  to  the  system  of  keeping  watch. 

On  the  following  day  a  march  of  seven  hours  brought  us  to 
a  large  handsome  Massai  village,  about  at  the  place  where  the 
Guaso  Narok  begins  decidedly  to  bend  its  course  to  the  south, 
around  the  northern  spurs  of  the  Aberdare  Chain.  On  this  day 
we  had  marched  past  a  series  of  great  papyrus  marshes,  papyrus 
which  are  nothing  more  than  stagnant  portions  of  the  ^^^^p^- 
Guaso   Narok   on   the  plain,  that   here   presents   an   entirely 


260  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

horizontal  level.     These  seem  to  be  the  same  marshes  \yhich 
Thomson  saw  on  their  southern  side. 

In  the  afternoon  I  sent  out  eleven  of  ni)-  best  people,  to 

ascertain  if  the  Guaso  Narok  here  really  bends  towards  the 

south.     If  this  were  the  case  we  had  reached  the  point  from 

which,   in   his  time,  Thomson  had    turned   off  in  a 

Thomson's  .  .  t    i       t-i      •  n  i 

route  un-  north-west  direction  to  Lake  Jt5armgo,  and  on  the  next 
in 'the  dry  momiug  we  should  have  to  undertake  the  same  salto 
season.  mortale.  It  would  truly  be  a  salto  mortale  for  us, 
inasmuch  as  Thomson  marched  in  the  rainy  season,  whereas 
we  were  now  in  the  dry  time  of  the  year,  and  ran  the  risk  of 
finding  no  water.  Accordingly,  before  we  started  I  had  all 
our  cattle  watered,  and  after  about  an  hour's  marching  we 
entered  the  dense  thorny  thicket,  of  which,  in  his  book  of 
travels,  Thomson  has  given  a  doleful  description.  But  the 
affair  did  not  appear  to  us  so  bad  as  Thomson  makes  it  out. 

A  few  Somalis  marching  in  front,  with  sharp  swords  and 
axes,  opened  a  path  for  us  in  a  north-west  direction,  from 
which,  however,  I  deviated  at  noon  towards  the  west,  hoping, 
in  this  way,  more  quickly  to  reach  the  Guaso  Tien,  which  flows 
into  the  Baringo  Lake,  and  was  to  be  my  basis  for  the  further 
advance. 

While  we  were  thus  working  our  way  through  the  thicket, 
all  at  once  the  Kikuyu  people  threw  down  their  loads,  and  dis- 
Desertion  appeared  towards  the  right.  I  thought  at  first  they  had 
Kikuyu  ^^^'^  sonie  Massais,  and  sprang  towards  the  left  side ; 
porters.  \^^i  j^g  ^q  Qjjg  appeared  in  that  direction,  it  dawned 
all  at  once  upon  me  that  this  was  not  so  much  a  case  of  panic, 
as  one  of  simple  desertion  on  the  part  of  these  gentlemen,  for 
which  I  could  not  altogether  blame  them.  Only  two  of  the 
Kikuyu  people  had  been  kept  hold  of  by  the  Somalis,  and  had 
to  go  with  us  as  far  as  the  Baringo.  But  I  was  obliged  now  to 
burden  the  camels  with  the  loads  that  had  been  thrown  down, 
whereby  our  march  was  still  further  retarded. 

All  the  woodland  brooks  we  found  here  were  dry  ;  and  our 
state  of  mind  was  the  more  despondent,  as  we  had  no  points  of 
intelligence,  by  which  we  could  judge  when  we  should  succeed 


DIFFICULTY  IN  FINDING    WATER.  261 

in  working   our   way  out  of  the  thicket,  or  if  we  should  do 
so  at  all. 

At  noon  I  allowed  the  column  a  short  rest.  The  Somalis, 
and  Hussein  especially,  prayed  aloud  to  Allah  for  help,  which  I 
always  encouraged  them  in  such  circumstances  to  do, 

,  1     •  1  rm  ,  ,  Confidence 

to  keep  up  their  moral  tone.     Ihe  porters  showed,  as  in  the 
they  did  generally  in  these  days,  a  touching  confidence  "''''"^•" 
in  me  personally.     They  said,  "  We  shall  find  water,  for  the  chief 
has  said  it,  that  we  should  find  water  to-day." 

Throughout  the  whole  afternoon  we  worked  on.  At  length, 
from  four  o'clock,  the  thicket  began  to  grow  a  little  lighter.  We 
came  to  a  broad  rhinoceros  spoor,  and  at  five  o'clock  into  an 
open,  but,  unfortunately,  an  entirely  dry  valley,  evidently  the 
one  designated  by  Thomson  the  Marmose  valley.  Here  I 
pitched  our  camp. 

Herr  von  Tiedemann  told  me,  directly  we  were  in  camp,  that 
he  had  decidedly  identified  his  symptoms  with  those  of  dysentery. 
I  had  had  a  tub  of  water  brought  for  the  two  of  us,  and  now 
had  some  cocoa  boiled  for  Herr  von  Tiedemann.  Grave 
But  my  heart  was  very  heavy.  How  could  I  help  him  ?  o?  vjn  °" 
Dysentery  requires  peculiar  treatment.  Thomson  had  Kedemann. 
been  brought  down,  almost  to  death,  by  this  disease  during  his 
return  march  out  of  Africa,  and  we  had  scarcely  half  of  our 
march  into  Africa  behind  us. 

But  it  was  more  important,  for  the  moment,  to  find  water  for 
the  caravan.  For  this  purpose  I  sent  two  columns  in  a  south 
and  south-west  direction  respectively,  while  I  myself,  with 
Hussein  Fara,  went  off'  in  a  north-west  direction  on  the  seeking 
same  quest.  Towards  six  o'clock  we  came  back  with  ^'"^^a'ter. 
our  errand  unaccomplished,  and  I  ate  a  scanty  supper  alone  in 
front  of  my  tent,  after  posting  the  sentries  round  about  the 
camp.  Rukua  had  also  returned,  with  his  troop,  from  the  south 
unsuccessful. 

It  was  New  Year's  Eve,  and  my  friends  in  my  own  country 
were  probably  sitting  within  the  circle  of  their  dear  ones, 
assembled  round  the  punch  bowl.  The  temperature  was  still 
cool  during  the  nights,  and  above  me  the  stars  of  the  equatorial 


262  yK]V  LIGHT  OX  DARK  AFRICA. 

world  were  flaming  like  thousands  of  mysterious  signs  of 
interrogation.  In  the  thicket  around  were  heard  the  sounds  of 
the  wilderness — the  jackal  howled,  and  in  the  distance  sounded 
the  roar  of  a  lion. 

I  was  making  mournful  reflections  on  this  conclusion  of  the 
j^ear  1889,  when  towards  midnight  joyous  cries  suddenly  re- 
sounded from  the  southern  side  of  the  camp,  and  directly 
afterwards  the  Galla  man,  Mandutto,  Avas  led  up  to  me 
found  by  in  triumph  by  some  porters.  He  had  just  returned 
from  his  foraging  expedition  to  the  south-west,  and  on 
his  shoulders  he  carried  two  jugs  of  water.  "Mandutto  has 
found  water,"  was  the  joyful  tidings,  which  ran  at  once  from 
mouth  to  mouth  through  the  whole  camp,  and  suddenly  trans- 
formed the  general  temper  from  melancholy  brooding  into  a 
lively  state  of  joy. 

With  a  heart  full  of  thankfulness,  I  now  laid  myself  down  to 
rest.  In  a  somewhat  marvellous  way  this  danger  also  had 
been  averted ;  and  full  of  cheerful  confidence  I  slept  into  the 
year  1890. 

The  water  discovered  by  Mandutto  was  brought  from  a  rain 
pool  on  the  slope  of  the  western  margin  of  the  Leikipia  plateau. 
The  pool  was  hidden  in  the  reedy  grass,  and  had  thus  been 
prevented,  so  far,  from  drying  up  in  the  sun.  To  this  pond, 
Beginning  which  was  situate  about  four  miles  from  our  camp  in 
a  new  year,  g^  gouth-west  direction,  I  transferred  my  camp  on  the 
morning  of  January  1st,  and  there  I  again  held  a  day  of  rest, 
before  accomplishing  the  march  to  the  Guaso  Tien  on  the 
following  morning.  The  wind  whistled  raw  and  cold  from  the 
north,  true  January  weather;  but  we  had  water!  We  could 
drink  cocoa  and  cook  soup;  and  so  I  spent  a  fine  holiday, 
thinking  of  what  lay  behind  us.  On  that  day  I  began  to  work 
out  my  Massai  report  for  Europe,  and  I  also  wrote  letters  to 
my  beloved  ones  at  home. 

We  were  now  at  an  elevation  of  more  than  eight  thousand 
feet,  and  would  certainly  next  morning  come  to  the  slope  of 
the  Leikipia  plateau  towards  the  west. 

As  I  sat  in  my  tent  that  afternoon  a  report  was  suddenly 


INTERVIEW  WITH  THE    WANDOROBBO.  263 

brought  to  me  that  there   were   people  in  the   vicinity    who 
apparently  wished  to  enter  into  communication  with  us. 
I  had  them  invited  by  signs  to  approach,   and  found  thewando- 
that  they  were  young  Wandorobbo.  "^^''' 

"  Do  you  know  the  way  to  the  Guaso  Tien  ?  "  I  asked  them, 
when  they  had  seated  themselves  in  my  camp. 

"The  Guaso  Tien  is  very  near,"  said  they. 

"  It  leads  to  the  Baringo,  does  it  not  ?  " 

"  The  Baringo  is  out  yonder."  They  pointed  to  the  north- 
west. 

"Then  that  mountain  yonder  which  we  see  is  probably  the 
Dongo  Gelesha  ?  " 

They  answered  by  lively  signs  in  the  affirmative,  evidently 
astonished  that  I  knew  the  name. 

"  Now  I  will  tell  you  something,  my  good  Wandorobbo. 
You  are  to  show  me  the  way  to  the  Guaso  Tien  and  to  Njemps. 
In  return,  I  will  give  you  some  head  of  cattle,  and  handsome 
clothes,  when  we  arrive  in  Njemps." 

They  looked  at  one  another,  and  did  not  seem  inclined  to 
agree  to  the  proposals.     Accordingly  I  continued, — 

"Where  I  come  from,  it  is  the  custom  to  show  the  way 
to  strangers  who  come  ijito  the  country  when  they  ask  it. 
Whoever  does  not  do  that  of  his  own  free  will  is  compelled  to  do 
it.     You  do  not  seem  inclined  to  follow  our  custom.  .  ^   .,. 

A  startling 

Therefore  I  must  ask  you  to  sleep  the  night  with  my  announce. 
Somalis,  so  that  you  do  not  steal  secretly  away  in  dark- 
ness and  mist.     For  the  rest,  you  will  receive  good  treatment." 

When,  in  spite  of  my  friendly  words,  the  two  men  suddenly 
attempted  to  escape,  they  were  seized  by  the  Somalis,  and 
secured.  The  next  day  we  marched  in  a  very  friendly  manner 
with  them  to  Njemps,  from  whence  they  were  allowed  start  for 
to  return  to  their  tribe  with  rich  presents.  Thus  ^Je^ips- 
the  chief  care  of  the  past  week  was  overcome,  and  to-day, 
for  the  first  time,  I  looked  forward  with  complete  confidence 
to  the  cheerful  prosecution  of  our  expedition. 

Next  morning  we  crossed  the  western  margin  of  Leikipia, 
guided  by  the  two  Wandorobbo,  first  passing  through  burnt-up 


264  NEW  LIGHT   UX  DARK  AFRICA. 

and   tangled    bushes,   then   suddenly   towards   the  west,   on    a 
broad  way  appearing  almost  like  an  avenue,  down  the  declivity. 

Suddenly  my  whole  column  broke  out  into  a  loud  cry  of 
rapture.  A  green  valley  opened  before  us,  into  which  the 
Leikipia  plateau  fell  perpendicularly  down.  Along  this  valley 
TheGuaso  meandered  a  river.  "  Guaso  Tien,"  was  the  answer 
Tien  river,  ^f  ^]^g  Wandorobbo  guides  to  my  question.  Thus  we 
had  reached  the  river  domain  of  the  Baringo.  We  had  left 
behind  us  the  rough  and  inhospitable  plateau  of  Leikipia,  and 
probably  with  it,  for  ever,  the  anxiety  of  fighting  the  Massais. 

Through  grass  that  grew  to  a  man's  height  we  marched  on 
for  a  quarter  of  an  hour  to  the  Guaso  Tien.  The  river  was  for 
the  most  part  dry,  and  only  in  the  places  where  a  tangle  of 
high  reeds  kept  off  the  rays  of  the  sun  was  a  little  water,  from 
which  the  caravan  refreshed  itself.  I  resolved,  accordingly,  to 
march  farther  down  the  river,  where,  according  to  the  assertion 
of  the  Wandorobbo,  better  water  was  to  be  had. 

It  was  nearly  three  o'clock  when  we  came  to  a  mighty 
gorge,  where  the  Guaso  Tien  begins  to  cast  itself,  with  a  steep 
fall,  into  the  depths.  Over  rough  boulders  and  great  blocks  of 
stone,  where  we  had  often  a  difficulty  in  picking  our  way,  we 
A  difficult  clambered  down.  But  at  last  the  path  became  very 
path.  narrow,  and  disappeared  altogether  when  we  came  to  a 
massive  rock,  that  entirely  filled  up  the  bed  of  the  river,  pre- 
senting a  perpendicular  descent  of  at  least  sixty -five  feet.  Here 
was  an  insuperable  obstacle  to  further  climbing,  and  I  therefore 
made  up  my  mind  to  pitch  my  camp  for  the  night  by  a  little  bend 
higher  up  the  river,  where  there  was  a  little  water  under  the  rock. 
The  shores  rise  steep  on  either  side,  so  that  every  word, 
even  if  spoken  softly,  makes  a  loud  echo  in  the  gorge.  Here  I 
needed  only  to  establish  two  outposts,  one  above  and  one  below, 
to  be  safe  from  any  hostile  surprise  ;  and  when  in  the  evening 
the  camp-fires  of  the  expedition  blazed  up  by  the  rocks  and 
in  the  river  gorge,  we  had  the  most  magnificent  scenery  of  a 
wolf's  glen*  before  us  that  can  be  imagined. 

*  The  "  Wolfsschlucht,"  or  wolf's  glen,  it  will  be  remembered,  is  the  scene 
of  the  incantation  of  Caspar  in  Weber's  Freischutz. — Tb. 


VOLCANIC  REGION  OF  THE  GUASO   TIEN.  265 

On  the  day  before,  while  attempting  to  descend  with  the 
camels,  my  Somalis  had  discovered  a  path  to  the  right  of  the 
Guaso  Tien,  by  which  I  travelled  next  morning.  It  led  us 
first,  at  an  elevation  of  8,100  feet,  to  the  furthest  margin 
of  Lake  Baringo,  from  which  the  Dongo  GeleshaAnewpath 
appeared  only  like  a  hill  of  slight  elevation.  I  had  *"''''*• 
from  here  a  complete  view  round  this  very  remarkable  margin 
land,  and  think  I  may  assert  that  we  have  here  to  do  with  an 
enormous  crater  ring,  the  diameter  of  which,  as  it  reaches  to 
the  ascent  of  Elgejo,  I  was  afterwards  able  to  determine  at 
fifteen  German  miles  (seventy  English).  Within  a  great  ring 
a  number  of  little  crater  rings  appear  to  be  set  up,  the  deepest 
of  which  is  Lake  Baringo  itself.  Thus  we  here  stand  voioanio 
opposite  a  crater  formation,  to  which  not  one  that  I  "^'"'■ 
know  in  the  world  can  be  likened,  and  which  I  could  compare 
only  with  one  of  the  annular  systems  in  the  moon.  The 
descent  from  this  margin  to  the  deep  land  is  almost  perpen- 
dicular, and  as  a  landscape  is  truly  magnificent. 

On  a  path  Avinding  down  in  a  zigzag  shape  we  now  de- 
scended, to  strike  the  Guaso  Tien  again  at  a  point  where  it 
turns  from  its  southern  course,  almost  at  a  right  angle,  towards 
the  west.  From  here  we  had  to  follow  the  course  of  the  river 
itself.  The  rocks  to  the  right  and  left,  which  completely  close 
it  in,  rise  to  the  height  of  about  eight  hundred  feet.  In  some 
places  they  are  close  together,  at  others  they  are  farther  apart. 
It  seems  as  though  the  rock  had  here  been  split  asunder  by 
some  convulsion  of  the  earth,  developing  a  large  cleft,  into 
which  the  Guaso  Tien  precipitates  itself  A  remarkable  thing 
in  the  course  of  this  river  was,  moreover,  that  wherever  „ 

'  '  Course  of 

it  was  in  deep  shadow  it  had  a  certain  depth  of  water,  the  Guaso 
but  in  those  places  where  the  sun  shone  down  perpendi- 
cularly upon  it  only  a  dry  river-bed  appeared.     It  was  difficult 
to  see  where  the  water  at  once  came  from  again. 

In  one  place  the  rocks  were  so  close  together  that  a  donkey 
could  hardly  force  its  way  through  the  passage,  and  the  camels 
actually  stuck  fast.  Consequently  I  had  the  camp  pitched  for 
the  second  time  below  this  spot,  in  a  wider  part  of  the  gorge 


266  ^V£Tr  IJGIIT  ON  DARK  AFJUCA. 

itself,  and  remained  encamped  here  a  whole  day,  to  pull  out 
the  camels,  which  was  done  after  much  exertion. 

So  it  was  not  until  January  5th  that  we  quitted  the  gorge 
of  the  Guaso  Tien,  a  river  which  reaches  to  the  south-west 
angle  of  Lake  Baringo,  to  turn  our  steps,  in  a  westward  course 
on  the  edge  of  the  declivity,  directly  across  the  plain  of 
Njemps.  The  Dongo  Gelesha  now  lay  to  the  north-east,  and 
soon  appeared,  looked  at  from  below,  in  all  its  imposing  slope, 
before  us.  On  this  day  1  had  the  camp  pitched  below  the 
Dongo  Gelesha,  by  a  little  affluent  of  the  Guaso  Tien.  While 
Anaoci-  this  was  being  done  one  of  the  porters  let  a  burning 
dental  fire,  ^j-^nd  fall  iuto  the  tinderlike  grass.  It  caught  fire  at 
once ;  and  with  express-train  speed  the  conflagration  spread, 
happily  in  a  direction  away  from  the  camp,  over  the  slopes 
and  the  grassy  steppe.  This  occurrence  fortunately  occasioned 
me  to  seek  a  camping-place  that  had  already  been  burnt  bare, 
and  consequently  presented  no  danger  of  fire.  I  say  "  fortun- 
ately," for  in  the  evening  the  wind  veered  round,  and  now  all  at 
once  the  fire,  which  at  noon  had  rushed  forth  across  the  steppe, 
came  back  upon  us  by  a  circuitous  route,  and,  indeed,  with  a 
speed  which,  if  we  had  been  among  the  masses  of  grass,  would 
have  rendered  flight  almost  impracticable.  With  difficulty  we 
succeeded  in  getting  the  donkeys  and  the  ammunition  into  the 
centre  of  the  little  bare  camping-place  I  had  selected.  Herr 
von  Tiedemann,  who  had  set  up  his  tent  on  the  edge  of  the 
A  danger-  g^'^^^y  stcppe — indeed,  in  the  steppe  itself — was  obliged 
ous  posi-  to  rush  out,  unclothed,  in  headlong  flight,  to  escape 
the  danger  of  being  burnt  alive  in  it.  As  is  always 
the  case  where  there  are  high  and  low  grounds  in  close  prox- 
imity, perfectly  malicious  gusts  of  wind  prevailed  here  on  this 
day,  so  that  all  night  long  we  were  in  danger  of  seeing  our  tents 
suddenly  blown  down. 

W"e  were  glad  enough  next  morning  to  leave  this  inhospit- 
able place,  in  the  hope  that  before  night  we  should  see  Lake 
Baringo  itself  Even  with  such  longing  may  Moses  have  gone 
forth,  when  it  was  declared  to  him  that  he  should  now  behold 
the  promised  land. 


AROUND  LAKE  BARINGO.  267 

Thomson  had  drawn  seductive  pictures  of  Lake  Baringo. 
We  hoped  to  find  food  there  in  abundance,  and  to  regain  the 
feeling  of  security  for  life  and  limb.  Patiently,  therefore,  we 
accepted  the  fact  that  we  had  to  march  for  hours  through  the 
parched  prairie,  and  then  to  ascend  towards  the  last  circumfer- 
ence around  Lake  Baringo.  Towards  eleven  o'clock  this  was 
reached  ;  and  there,  in  truth,  lay  the  lake  before  us  !  A  green 
grassy  steppe  extended  far  and  wide,  shading  off,  here  and  there, 
into  brownish  and  reddish  tints.  Opposite,  just  below  lake  Ba- 
ns, a  steep  group  of  rocks  rose  up,  which,  according  to  [tTlur*''* 
the  maps,  could  be  nothing  else  but  Kamasia.  This  roundmgs. 
was,  moreover,  corroborated  by  the  Wandorobbo,  who  were 
astonished,  as  before,  that  I  could  tell  them  of  such  names. 
But  to  the  right  the  lovely  basin  of  Lake  Baringo  bends 
like  the  bay  of  Sorrento,  or  that  of  Naples,  and  towards  the 
north  scattered  islands  rise  above  its  surface.  Thus  the 
Baringo  looks  up  with  its  deep  blue  eye  at  the  gleaming  heaven. 
One  hardly  knows  if  that  blue  surface  that  appears  below,  or  the 
canopy  that  stretches  its  expanse  above,  is  the  real  sky.  Like  a 
scene  from  fairy-land  the  picture  lay  spread  out  that  we  there 
viewed  below  us. 

So  it  is  really  to  be  vouchsafed  to  us  that  we  shall  quit, 
as  living  men,  the  inhospitable  steppes  of  the  Massais  ?  Yes,  it 
has  been  vouchsafed  to  us  !  We  have  only  to  descend,  to  grasp 
the  reality. 

For  about  an  hour  we  revelled  in  the  contemplation  of  the 
picture  glorified  by  every  poetic  charm.  Whether  the  enthu- 
siasm of  my  corn-lacking  porters  was  not  chiefly  called  forth 
by  the  anticipation  of  what  they  should  find  to  fill  improved 
their  cooking-pots  withal,  I  will  leave  an  open  question,  prospects. 
At  all  events,  the  feeling  of  satisfaction  was  universal,  and  on 
the  strength  of  this  general  feeling  the  very  troublesome  descent 
was  made  more  rapidly  and  easily  than  would  probably  have 
been  the  case  under  other  circumstances.  We  had  to  clamber 
down  an  almost  perpendicular  space  of  about  twelve  hundred 
feet ;  certainly  not  a  pleasurable  task  for  the  camels,  or  for 
the  porters,  with  their  loads  that  weighed  sixty  pounds.     On 


268  NEW  LIGHT   OX  DARK  AFRICA. 

reachiug  the  utmost  verge  of  the  crater  circumference,  I  halted 
to  collect  the  whole  column.  Unhappily  I  had  lost  one  of  my 
camels  that  morning,  so  that  I  had  only  three  left. 

But  what  did  that  signify,  weighed  against  the  fact  that  we  had 
now,  of  a  certainty,  reached  the  Baringo  territory  P  Towards 
two  o'clock  we  marched  away  with  beat  of  drum,  through  the 
grassy  steppe,  towards  the  west.  For  the  first  time  after  a  long 
interval,  acacias  and  mimosas  again  appeared  on  our  horizon. 

.    ,,.  They  grew  on  the  borders  of  the   Guaso   na  Nyuki, 

Crossing  the  .  .  .^         ' 

Guaso  na    towards  which  we  were  pressing.     At  about  five  o'clock 

Nyuki  r  o 

we  crossed  it,  and,  as  I  had  foi-merly  done  in  the  quiet 
days  by  the  Tana,  I  set  up  my  camp  under  the.  widespreading 
shade  of  the  mimosa  trees  ;  and  it  was  with  a  sensation  of 
heartfelt  joy  that  I  sat  down  to  my  evening  meal  in  front  of 
my  tent,  at  seven  o'clock,  with  the  moon  shining  silently  and 
peacefully  down. 

Of  the  natives  we  did  not,  on  this  evening,  get  a  glimpse. 
The  two  Massai  settlements,  Njemps  Ndogo  and  Njemps  Nkubua 
(Little  Njemps  and  Great  Njemps),  are  situated  on  the  Guaso 
Tigerish,  which  rolls  towards  the  Baringo,  two  or  three  miles 
westward  of  the  Guaso  na  Nyuki.  To-night  I  again  lay  down 
to  rest,  with  satisfaction  like  that  I  had  felt  on  Christmas  Eve. 

Next  morning  early  we  were  up  and  away,  with  the  drum 
beating,  towards  the  south-west.  Soon  we  came  upon  a  broad 
road,  and  presently  I  heard  human  voices  calling  to  us  on  my 
left.  It  was  almost  like  a  home  feeling  to  hear  the  old  "  lambo " 
of  the  coast  repeated  here  in  the  heart  of  Africa.  At  once  we 
felt  that  we  were  once  again  in  peaceful  communication  with 
the  outer  world.  A  few  hundred  paces  more,  and  the  thick 
Arrival  at  thomy  riugwalls  of  Njemps  rose  before  us.  The  elders 
Njemps.  Q^  ^]^g  j.j,j^g  came  out,  and  replied  to  my  "  lambo " 
with  a  friendly  "  lambo  sana."  Hands  were  duly  spat  in  and 
shaken. 

Presently  a  troop  of  the  natives  placed  themselves  at  the 
head  of  the  column,  and  led  us  round  Njemps  in  a  circuit 
towards  the  west.  We  crossed  the  Guaso  Tigerish,  and  found 
ourselves  under  the   shade  of  the  cool  mimosa  trees,   by  the 


COMMKXCEMEXr   OF   BETTER    TlMEf^. 


269 


iKjrtlioru  wall  of  the  place,  on  the  old  campinij-g'rouiid  of  the 
travelliuu-  caravaiis,  where  Mr.  Thomson,  Dr.  Fischer,  „ 

Camping 

and  Count  Teleld  had  all  dwelt  in  their  time.    Quickl_v  among 
the    loads   were  dejjosited    and    the   tents   set   u]),   and 
soon  we  experienced  the  pleasant  feelinii'  of  reposing-  comfort- 
ably among  a  friendly  tribe. 

The  toils  and  dangers  we  had  endured  among  the  Massais  of 
the  Leikipia  plateau  began,  like  the  stormclouds  when  a  tem- 
pest has  spent  its  rage,  to  sink  gradually  away  on  the  horizon 
of  our  memory. 


CHAPTER    VIII. 

FROM  THE  nAIUNGO  TO  THE  VIC- 
TORIA   XYAXZA    TERRITORY. 

"  In  the  realm  of  dreams  and  magic 
Have  we,  as  it  seemeth,  entered." 

GOBTHE. 

IVTJEMPS  lies  about  five  miles 
A~-\  soutli  of  Lake  Bariuiro.  I 
am  sorry  to  say  I  cannot  join  in 
the  Thomsonian  hymn  of  praise 
concerning  this  place  and  its  iii- 
labitauts.  He  was  euclianted  with 
the  security  of  the  life  lie  enjoyed 
here,  and  that  may  have  biassed 
his  spirit.  We  had  won  our  own 
safety,  until  now,  by  fighting,  and 

we  had  not  paid  tribute  any- 
where,  so    that    these    two 

'"^^  considerations  did  not  weigh 
C**;^''^         „      .      ,  heavily  in   the 

Cluestion  of  ■' 

ways  and     SCale        ot       GUI' 

means.  ,  ,      , 

well     b  e  1  n  g- 

But  as  regarded  the  important  question  of  our  b(jdily  food  and 
necessities,  thanks  to  the  circumstance  that  we  could  pay  for 


V  ^» 


RELATION  WITH  THE  MASSAIS.  271 

food  with  food,  we  were  able  to  procure  from  the  Massais  grain, 
honey,  and  fish.  They  were  themselves  suffering  hunger,  and 
would  hardly  have  declared  themselves  ready  to  part  with  eat- 
ables for  clothes-stuffs,  and  still  less  for  ornaments,  purchasing 
But  I  paid  in  goats  and  sheep,  and  thus  succeeded  in  ^"ppiies. 
purchasing  for  myself  and  my  people  a  corresponding  supply  of 
"  veri-veri,"  a  kind  of  small  red  millet,  and  also  in  getting 
some  honey  and  a  daily  supply  of  fish.  Of  the  corn  we  pre- 
pared a  kind  of  meal,  which,  boiled  in  salt  water,  made  a  very 
tasty  addition  to  our  milk. 

Among  the  sheep  we  brought  with  us,  the  Massais  here  and 
there  recognised  animals  that  had  been  stolen  from  them  by 
their  cousins  of  Leikipia,  with  whom  they  lived  in  deadly  feud. 
Of  course  I  could  not  consent  to  give  these  back  without  an 
equivalent ;  had  I  done  so,  I  should  soon  have  got  rid  of  my 
whole  flock.  All  things  considered,  we  lived  in  good  friendship 
with  each  other,  being  united  by  our  common  enmity  towards  a 
third  nation. 

I  had  very  soon  recovered  from  the  fatigues  of  the  march 
over  Leikipia,    but,   unfortunately,   Herr  von  Tiede-  ^^^^  ^^^ 
mann  was  not  able  to  regain  his  health  in  the  four  Tiedemann's 

1       T    1       -n      •  illness. 

days  we  spent  by  Lake  Baringo. 

The  depressed  region  between  the  Dongo  Gelesha  in  the  east, 
and  the  Kamasia  plateau,  that  falls  off  steeply  at  about  the 
same  elevation,  in  the  west,  was  3,400  feet  above  the  sea  level, 
and  for  the  first  time,  after  a  long  interval,  we  had  now  warmer 
nights,  while  the  days  still  remained  tolerably  cool. 

The  whole  of  this  depression  is  filled  with  a  kind  of  reddish 
clay,  in  which  the  sun  burns  great  cracks  and  clefts.  The 
drawback  in  this  region  is  the  remarkable  dryness,  which  often 
destroys  the  harvest  and  occasions  famine.  The^j^gg^i 
Massais,  who,  in  contrast  to  their  brethren  on  the  *e™^"'^"- 
elevated  plateaus,  practise  agriculture,  have  indeed  arranged  a 
very  ingenious  method  of  irrigation  ;  but  this  irrigation  depends 
upon  the  state  of  the  Guaso  Tigerish,  which  also  almost  dries 
up  at  this  season  of  the  year. 

I  visited  Lake  Baringo  on  Sunday,  January  12th.     By  the 


272  NEW  LIGHT   OX  DARK  AFRICA. 

way  we  saw  great  numbers  of  game  animals  of  all  kinds.     But 
of  the   lake   itself  not    much  was  to  be  seen,  for  it 

Shores  of     .  .  ■  i  i  i 

lake  IS  surrounded  on  its  southern  shore  with  a  broad 
anngo.  j^g^j.g^jj  gf  reeds,  which  must  be  pressed  through  before 
the  expanse  of  water  is  descried. 

Lovely  as  this  lake  appears  seen  from  the  heights,  there  is 
little  charm  of  landscape  on  its  shores  themselves.  The 
inhabitants  of  these  regions,  called  by  the  WanganncBsi 
"  Wakuafi,"  that  is  to  say,  dealers, — a  name  which,  by 
uafi  or  the  way,  is  not  known  among  the  Massais  themseh'es, 
— have  been  much  reduced  in  number  and  humbled  by 
wars,  and  are  consequently  more  modest  than  their  insolent 
cousins  on  the  plateaus.  They  belong  to  a  great  tribe  which,  as 
it  appears,  was  entirely  defeated  and  scattered  in  all  directions 
by  the  other  Massais,  at  the  beginning  of  this  century,  being 
partly  driven  still  further  north  to  the  lakes  discovered  by 
Count  Teleki,  partly  to  Usaguha,  partly  to  Kawirondo,  and 
close  to  the  shores  of  Lake  Victoria.  The  people  are  intelli- 
gent, and  certainly  capable  of  culture.  They  are  favourable  to 
strangers,  because  they  expect  through  them  to  get  protection 
from  the  Massai  tribes,  who  fall  upon  them  again  from  time  to 
time.  The  trading  strangers,  whether  they  be  Arabs  or  Euro- 
peans, have  likewise  an  interest  in  permanently  maintaining 
here  this  colony  of  peaceable  and  friendly  Massais. 

I  expressed  myself  on  this  point  in  a  report  which  I  pre- 
pared at  Baringo,  on  January  10th,  for  the  German  Emin  Pasha 
committee,  and  which  was  not  published  for  a  long  time  : — 

"  A  Baringo  nation  would  be  of  the  very  greatest  import- 
ance for  the  general  opening  up  of  Central  Africa,  and  for  the 
Be  ort  to  S^'^^^  plateaus,  over  which  our  way  led.  Here,  in  what 
the  com.     resembles  a  peaceful  oasis,  the  expeditions  which,  ap- 

mittee.  ,  ■         ^  ,  ,  }  -,     .  f 

proachmg  irom  the  east,  are  making  their  way  to  the 
north  and  west,  can  rest  and  gain  strength  for  the  further  dif- 
ticulties  that  lie  before  them.  It  is  also  known  that  Njemps  and 
the  Baringo  form  one  of  the  great  centres  of  the  ivory  trade  of 
Eastern  and  Central  Africa.  I  consider  it  equally  important  in 
the  interests  of' civilisation  and  of  a  general  European  trade  to 


REPORT  FOR    THE  COMMITTEE.  273 

defend,  and  permanently  to  secure,  the  colony  of  intelligent  and 
submissive  Wakuafi  dwelling  here  from  the  destruc- 
tion with  which  they  are  continually  threatened  at  the  of  inter. 
hands  of  the  Massai  and  Wosuk.  In  a  word,  I  consider  ''^"*'''"- 
the  establishment  of  a  strong  European  station  by  the  Baringo 
to  be  called  for  in  the  interest  of  the  whole  further  development 
of  civilisation  in  Eastern  and  Central  Africa.  Five  white  men 
and  twenty-five  well-armed  Askari,  with  a  piece  of  ordnance, 
would,  according  to  my  estimate,  be  quite  sufficient  to  secure 
this  charming  valley  in  a  military  point  of  view ;  and  I  also 
believe  that  such  an  establishment  would  very  soon  pay  for 
itself  as  a  commercial  factory.  Which  nation  it  is  that  esta- 
blishes such  a  station  here  is  of  no  consequence,  from  the  point 
of  view  of  civilisation.  I  should  unquestionably  do  it  myself, 
if  I  did  not  require  all  my  powers  for  the  further  prosecution 
of  the  task  before  me  ;  for  the  greater  part  of  my  resources 
have  been  taken  from  me,  by  brute  force,  in  Zanzibar  and  on 
the  coast.  Meanwhile,  in  order  at  least  to  effect  something,  I 
have  concluded  a  treaty  with  the  Wakuafi,  which  assures  to 
them  the  friendship  of  the  Germans,  and  places  their  land  at 
my  disposal  with  regard  to  further  steps  to  be  taken  in  the 
matter.      At  the   same  time  I   hoisted  the   German  „ 

German 

flag  at  Niemps  on  January  9th.     I  think  I  am  war-  flag  hoisted 

-,    .  .  ,  1  ,  ^^1.      atNjemps. 

ranted  m  assuming  that,  at  the  present  moment,  the 
black,  white,  and  red  flag  is  the  one  most  dreaded  by  the 
Massais ;  and  until  the  matter  is  decided  in  Europe,  I  hold  it  to 
be  the  most  practical  thing  that  this  flag  should  wave  here. 
Accordingly,  I  proclaim  Njemps  to  be  a  European  and  especially 
a  German  possession.  I  consider  myself  entitled  to  do  this, 
because  the  Baringo,  with  Njemps  northward  of  the  Equator,  is, 
according  to  an  objective  explanation,  manifestly  not  included 
in  the  London  agreement. 

"  From  hence,  as  I  assume,  a  lasting  communication  with 
Oda-Boru-Ruva  could  be  best  established  and  main-  communica- 
tained  to  the  north  of  the  Kenia  ;  and  if  Emin  Pasha  oda-BMu- 
is  still  in  Wadelai,  and  is  willing  to  co-operate  in  this  ^™'*- 
plan,    a   European   chain   of  stations   might    be    established, 

18 


274  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

extending  into  the  heart  of  Africa,  which  would  have  its  support 
in  the  navigableness  of  the  Tana,  and  might  become  exceedingly 
important,  alike  as  regards  commerce  and  civilisation,  for 
Eastern  and  Central  Africa." 

As  the  conclusion  of  this  chain  of  reasoning  I  had  already, 
on  January  8th,  concluded  the  following  treaty  with  the 
elders  : 

"  Njemps,  on  the  Baringo, 

''January  8th,  1890. 

"  The  elders  of  the  Wakuati  at  Njemps  and  on  the  Baringo 
come  and  solicit  the  friendship  of  Dr.  Carl  Peters. 

"  They  have  heard  that  he  has  beaten  the  Massais,  who  are 
their  enemies. 

"  They  declare  that  they  acknowledge  Dr.  Peters  as  their 

lord,    and    beg    him    to    make    application    to   His 

with  the    Majesty  the  German  Emperor  for  the   incorporatioD 

Wakuafi  .  . 

of  the  Baringo  country  in  the  German  protected 
territory. 

"  Dr.  Peters,  after  a  negotiation  of  several  hours  with 
an  assembly  of  the  Wakuati,  declares  himself  ready  to 
grant  them  his  friendship,  and  to  protect  them  against  the 
Massais  so  long  as  he  tarries  on  the  Baringo.  He  declares 
himself  ready  to  hoist  the  German  flag,  thereby  to  show 
to  the  Massais,  in  the  time  to  come,  that  he  looks  upon 
the  Baringo  territory  as  his,  and  that  it  stands  under  his 
protection. 

"The  regulating  of  the  further  relations  of  Njemps  and  the 
Baringo  territory  Dr.  Peters  reserves  to  himself. 

"  The  cession  of  Njemps  and  the  Baringo  territory  to  Dr.  Carl 
Peters,  and  the  acceptance  of  it  on  the  part  of  Dr.  Peters  for 
himself  and  his  friends,  is  solemnly  ratified  by  the  signatures 
of  both  the  contracting  parties,  and  with  the  forms  usual  among 
Ratification  *^^  Wakuafi  ;  as  also  the  taking  possession,  by  hoist- 
trel^^  ing  the  German  flag  within  the  enclosure,  of  Njemps 
Mkubua  ;  and  Dr.  Peters  declares  himself  still  prepared, 
in  case  it  should  yet  be  possible,  to  enter  into  negotiations  with 


AN  ENGLISH  EXPEDITION  EXPECTED.  275 

Emin  Pasha,  with  a  view  to  transfer  his  territory  of  power  to 
these  regions.  "  Gael  Peters. 

"  Elders  of  the  Wakuafi  of  Njemps  and  Baringo: 
Signatory  mark  of  Laonama. 
Signatory  mark  op  Sombeja. 
Signatory  mark  of  Baezalat. 


Hussein  Fara, 
Witnesses     I      MusA  Dar-es-Salaam 


Signatory  mark  of  Longoletea. 
Signatory  mark  of  Lendeka. 
Signatory  mark  of  Nendalom. 

BwANA  Mku, 

RUKUA, 


I 

I  "  Von  Tiedemann. 

"  This  testifies  that  the  foregoing  act  has  been  accomplished 
in  the  form  of  a  treaty,  on  the  present  day,  between  Herr  Dr. 
Peters  and  the  ^Yakuafi  of  Njemps  and  the  Baringo. 

"  Njemps,  January  8th,  1890." 

On  January  9th  the  German  tiag  was  accordingly  hoisted 
within  the  enclosure  of  Njemps,  and  it  was  visible  far  over  the 
region  around. 

I  had  really  expected  to  find  an  English  expedition  here, 
inasmuch  as  Mr.  de  Winton,  so  early  as  in  the  winter  of  1888, 
had  dissuaded  us  Germans  from  sending  me  out,  on  the 
ground  that  I  should  meet  an  English  expedition  that  winton's 
would  then  be  already  returning  from  Emin  Pasha.  *^^^ 
On  this  point  also  I  expressed  my  opinion  in  the  above-quoted 
report,  and  I  will  reproduce  my  expressions  here,  literally,  as 
they  clearly  indicate  what  was  my  disposition  in  those  days. 

"I  had  expected  a  white  man  here,  perhaps  Mr.  Martin, 
but  there  was  no  Mr.  Martin  anywhere  to  be  seen.  I  had 
supposed  that  here  at  last  the  prophecies  of  Mr.  de  Winton 
would  be  fulfilled,  and  that  the  returning  English  expedition 
of  rescue  would  appear  on  the  scene.  I  had,  indeed,  repeatedl}' 
come  upon  traces  of  English  expeditions  engaged  in  effecting 
a  retreat.  Already  at  Aden,  when  I  was  still  on  my  way  to 
Zanzibar,  I  had  encountered  Mr.  Swaine,  who  had  been  men- 
tioned as  the  leader  of  the  English  East  African  Expedition. 
In  Mombas,  in  April,  I  saw  Mr.  Last,  who  was  coming  back 
from  Ukamba  '  to  fit  himself  out  afresh.'  When  I  was  in 
Witu,  at  the  beginning  of  July,  I  heard  that  somebody  belonging 
to  Mr.  Jackson's    expedition  'had  come  back  in  haste  from 


276  yfj]]r  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

the  interior,  and  was  fitting  himself  out  anew  in  Malindi.' 
Afterwards  I  had  been  privileged  with  my  own  eyes  to  behold 
the  retm-n  of  Messrs.  Pigott  and  Smith  on  the  Middle  Tana. 

"  There  was,  in  truth,  a  sufficiency  of  returning  English  East 
African  expeditions  ;  but  while  Mr.  de  Winton  and  his  friends 
counselled  that  I  should  on  no  account  be  invested  with  the  com- 
Previoua  mand  of  the  German  Emin  Pasha  Expedition,  they  had 
E^g/*^''*  nevertheless  said  that  one  Emin  Pasha  Expedition  was 
ditions.  already  encamped  by  the  Baringo,  and  that  I  should 
meet  it  here,  if,  on  my  side,  I  marched  to  Emin  Pasha.  Here, 
on  the  Baringo,  no  one  has  seen  anything  of  that  expedition. 

"  Even  if  I  were  to  assume  that  the  English  leaders  of  it 
had  moved  onward — invisible,  by  some  kind  of  spiritualist 
manipulation — ^I  am  too  well  acquainted  with  the  masticatory 
Question  of  processes  of  Zanzibar  porters  to  be  able  to  believe,  that 
their  route,  f^^^  hundred  of  them  could  be  pushed  past  the  Baringo, 
without  leaving  tangible  traces.  I  am  accordingly  inclined  to 
think  that  no  English  Emin  Pasha  Expedition  has  ever  been 
here.  But  then,  how  came  Mr.  de  Winton  and  his  friends  to 
tell  this  to  the  world  .P  And  what  reason  has  the  world  to 
attach  more  credit  to  other  tales  these  gentlemen  may  put  forth 
than  to  this  one  ?  " 

It  was  afterwards  told  me,  in  Kawirondo,  by  Ali  Somal,  who 
was  with  the  Jackson  expedition,  that  Mr.  Pigott  had  originally 
been  intended  for  the  Baringo.  Whether  this  is  true  or  not,  I 
am  unable  to  say.  At  any  rate,  we  had  at  this  point  again  got 
the  better  of  English  competition,  and,  very  naturally,  we  were 
not  exactly  sorry  in  consequence. 

For  our  further  advance  towards  the  west,  I  had  the  burdens 
solidly  packed  together,  so  that,  as  a  rule,  from  that  time  for- 
Adjusting  ward,  only  the  porters  were  told  off  for  the  carrying  of 
the  burdens,  tj^gj^^  and  the  beasts  of  burden,  especially  the  three 
camels,  were  only  to  be  used  in  case  of  necessity.  "  Sir,  let 
them  go  like  gentlemen  !  "  said  Hussein  Fara. 

Besides  this,  I  attended  to  the  provisioning  of  the  column, 
as  I  knew  very  well  that  the  uninhabited  Angata  na  Nyuki 
was  now  to  be  passed  by  us.     As  I  have  already  noticed,  the 


DUTY  OF   VICTUALLING   AN  EXPEDITION.  277 

question  of  commissariat  in  African  expeditions  really  consti- 
tutes the  chief  task  of  the  leader,  who  must  do  justice  to  it,  if 
he  would  show  himself  at  all  equal  to  his  position.    And 
here  I  may  quite  candidly  declare,  that  the  manage-  Jg'the"''" 
ment  of  an  expedition  makes  no  figure,  in  my  eyes,  ''°'°""'- 
unless  it  is  quite   perfect  from  this  most  important  point  of 
view.     Stanley  has  much  to  tell  of  the  sufferings  his  expe- 
dition had   to   endure   from   hunger   on   their   march  up  the 
Aruwimi.     In  reading  that  narrative  I  could  not  avoid  think- 
ing, "  Yes,  but  does  Stanley  not  feel  at  all  that  in  these  pictures 
he  exposes  an  inexcusable  fault  of  his  own  ?  "     In  the  description 
there  is  not  a  syllable  to  indicate  this.     Now,  I  will  grant  that 
one  cannot  always  be  held  responsible  for  a  misfortune 

J?  J.T-  •     1  •     n       1  1  1     •  1  T    f     1  •  .  Importance 

01  this  kmd,  although  m  general  I  feel  convinced  it  is  of  the  com- 
exactly  in  this  particular  that  the  commander  of  an  ™^^°*"**- 
expedition  should  make  enquiries  concerning  his  route,  before 
he  leads  hundreds  of  men  into  such  regions ;  or,  if  such  a 
prosecution  of  enquiries  is  not  possible,  he  should  guard  against 
the  starving  of  his  people  by  driving  herds  with  him,  or  by 
previously  establishing  victualling  stations  proportionate  to  his 
needs.  But  that  Stanley,  even  in  his  third  journey  through  the 
forest,  when  he  was  thoroughly  acquainted  with  all  the  circum- 
stances, has  again  to  tell  of  a  "starvation  camp,"  does  not,  I 
confess,  maintain  at  its  height  the  admiration  I  was  formerly 
inclined  to  bestow  on  him,  especially  as  a  leader  of  an  expe- 
dition. For  my  part,  I  should  consider  very  seriously,  before 
entrusting  a  great  expedition  to  a  man,  who  looks  upon  such  a 
neglect  of  the  principal  duty  of  an  expeditionary  chief,  as  quite 
in  the  proper  order  of  things,  and  even  seems  to  be  of  opinion 
that  he  will  awaken  the  sympathies  of  Europe,  by  giving  a 
picture  of  the  sufferings  that  resulted  from  such  carelessness. 

On  the  Baringo  I  gave  each  of  my  people  a  twelve  days' 
ration  of  fiour,  and  as  I  had  still  about  four  hundred  state  of  our 
head  of  cattle  at  my  disposal,  I  considered,  on  Janu-  supplies- 
ary  13th,  that  I  might,  with  a  good  conscience,  begin  the  advance 
westward  towards  Kawirondo. 

That  day  we   encamped   about   seven   miles   westward   of 


278  .V£ll'  LIGHT   ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

Njemps,  at  a  lovely  bend  of  the  Guaso  Tigerish,  where,  in  his 
time,  Count  Teleki  had  pitched  his  camp  for  weeks. 

Next  morning  we  had  to  climb  the  wall  of  the  Kamasia 
Plateau,  which  inclines  steeply  down  into  the  plain. 

Clim'bingto  -,    ■,     n  ■  i 

the  Kamasia  We  began  our  march  before  sunrise,  and  now  we  went 
Plateau.  (.j^jj^bi^g  upward  continually,  while  the  sun  shone  down 
more  and  more  hotly  upon  us. 

The  Kamasia  Plateau  is,  in  every  respect,  the  opposite  to 
the  Dongo  Gelesha  and  the  Leikipia  Plateau.  Like  the  latter, 
it  forms  a  series  of  levels,  or  terraces.  It  was  as  though  we 
had  to  climb  up  a  succession  of  crater  walls,  lying  in  annular 
form  one  within  another. 

I  had  induced  my  friend  Laonania  to  show  us  the  way  as 
far  as  the  first  watering-place  in  Kamasia.  We  marched  until 
past  noon,  as  water  was  nowhere  to  be  found.  At 
camping-  length  we  halted  at  a  spring  that  trickled  very 
ground.  gparingly  in  the  dried-up  bed  of  the  Guaso  Kamnje, 
where  we  were  obliged  to  pitch  the  camp,  in  a  very  crowded 
manner,  by  the  slope  of  a  mountain ;  before  us  was  the  steep 
slope  of  the  last  portion  of  the  eastern  acclivity  of  Kamasia. 

The  people  of  this  land  are  Massais,  like  the  rest,  and  have 
much  of  the  insolence  of  the  inhabitants  of  Leikipia.  Though 
they  knew  that  we  had  beaten  these  latter,  they  came  noisily 
crowding  about  us,  and  behaved  turbulently  enough,  so  that  I 
turned  them  out  of  the  camp.  However,  they  brought  capital 
honey  to  sell  to  us,  and  their  boldness  did  not  go  so  far  as  to 
bring  on  a  fight. 

On  January  15th  our  way  led,  in  zigzag  windings,  to  the 
crest  of  the  Kamasia,  a  complete  climbing  expedition,  which, 
to  my  surprise,  was  accomplished  even  by  the  camels,  who 
certainly  marched  along  Avithout  burdens  as  "  gentlemen,"  only 
having  to  carry  Somali  Achmed,  who  had  fallen  ill  of  pleurisy. 
While  the  eastern  slope  of  Kamasia  is  very  dry,  a 
part  of  series  of  brooks  are  to  be  found  on  the  western  side, 
and  consequently  fresh  plantations  also. 

At  Njemps,  at  the  request  of  my  porter  Pemba  I  had  left  his 
sick  wife  behind,  in  the  care  of  the  Massais  there  ;  and  the  day 


MISBEHAVIOUR   OF   THE   WAKAMASIA.  279 

before,  my  porter  Chamsin,  who  carried  some  iron  utensils  and 
limped,  had  not  arrived  in  camp.  On  the  morning  of  January 
15th,  Pemba  Motu  was  suddenly  seized  with  a  longing  for  his 
wife's  company,  and  just  before  the  expedition  started  on  the 
march  he  absconded,  leaving  his  load  behind  him. 

This  day  I  again  set  up  my  camp  on  a  very  confined  space 
at  the  corner  of  a  mountain  slope,  just  above  a  little  spring. 
Until  then,  the  people  of  Kamasia  had  abstained  from  hostile 
demonstrations  against  us.  At  midday,  the  report  was  made 
that  they  had  attempted  to  steal  sheep  from  our  flock,  but  had 
been  quickly  put  to  flight  by  the  Somalis  firing  at  them.  To- 
wards three  o'clock,  Pemba  Motu  suddenly  made  his  „    ^  „  , 

'  •'  FemDa  Motu 

appearance  in  headlong  flight,  completely  naked,  and  and  the 
without  his  weapons.     He  reported  that  the  Wakamasia 
had  felled  Chamsin  to  the  ground,  and  taken  away  his  load ; 
that  they  had  also  attempted  to  capture  him,  Pemba  Motu, 
and  that  it  was  only  by  leaving  all  his  things  behind  him  that 
he  had  managed  to  escape,  and  to  rejoin  the  expedition. 

Though  there  was  here  a  manifest  casus  belli,  I  could  not 
make  up  my  mind  once  more  to  make  the  difficult  march  back, 
across  the  crest  of  the  Kamasia,  but  contented  myself  Question  of 
with  issuing  an  order  to  my  people  to  meet  every  "P"sais- 
hostile  act  perpetrated  by  the  'SYakamasia,  from  this  time 
forward,  with  reprisals. 

So  we  travelled  onward  on  the  morning  of  January  16th, 
continually  traversing  hilly  and,  in  some  parts,  steep  ground, 
towards  the  west.  The  Wakamasia  repeatedly  endeavoured  to 
break  into  our  herd  of  cattle,  but  were  driven  back  by  the 
Somalis,  several  of  them  being  struck  down. 

It  was  nearly  twelve  o'clock  when  we  reached  the  western 
declivity  of  the  Kamasia  Plateau  ;  and,  to  our  no  small  conster- 
nation, we  perceived  before  us,  separated  from  us  by  a  broad 
valley,  another  steep,  rocky  wall,  apparently  extending  down 
perpendicularly  into  the  deeper  ground,  which  seemed  to  stretch 
out  in  limitless  length  northward  and  southward.  I  The  land 
was  told  that  this  was  the  land  Elgejo,  where  the  °*^^eeJo. 
people   were  very  bad ;    much    worse    than   in    Kamasia,   the 


280  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

Wakamasia  declared.  I  was  now  in  the  south-west  district 
above  Kapte,  the  region  which  surrounds  the  western  declivity 
of  Kamasia. 

After  slaughtering  a  "  goat  of  peace  "  with  the  people  on 

the    higher   ground,    I   began   the  descent,    which   was   more 

readily  accomplished  than  we  could  have  anticipated  from  the 

higher  position.     Suddenly  I  saw  that  a  green  barrier 

Demonstra-  i  i  .         . 

tions  of  the  had  been  placed  across  the  way,  and  behind  it  fifty  or 
na  ives.  ^^^^^  natives  were  lying  in  wait,  lances  in  hand,  and 
with  bows  and  arrows  ready  to  shoot.  The  people  were  simple 
enough  to  demand  tribute  from  me,  but  immediately  gave  up 
this  friendly  intention  when  I  pointed  my  gun  at  them,  and 
threatened  them  with  war.  They  had  been  spoilt  by  Thomson, 
who,  with  regard  to  this  system  of  tribute,  tells  us  in  his  work 
"  Through  Massailand,"  that  he  and  his  men  had  several  times 
to  halt,  until  they  received  permission  to  go  on.  The  way  was 
closed  by  putting  green  twigs  over  the  footpath,  and  their 
stepping  across  that  sacred  symbol,  before  permission  had 
been  given,  was  enough  to  throw  the  people  into  paroxysms  of 
uncontrollable  excitement. 

When  the  Wakamasia  afterwards  tried  to  take  forcible 
possession  of  the  tribute  they  demanded,  by  seizing  some  of  my 
cattle  (remembering  also  the  assassination  of  Chamsin  of  which 
they  had  been  guilty),  three  of  them  were  shot  down  in  the  act 
of  robbery,  and  by  this  means  peace  was  restored  in  the  land. 
They  now  came  to  explain  to  us  that  they  were  willing  to  be  our 
friends,  without  receiving  tribute. 

This  day  I  encamped  somewhat  to  the  south  of  Kapte,  on 
the  western  slope  of  the  mountain  range.  The  Kamasia  people, 
who  now  were  quite  amiable  in  their  behaviour,  brought  us 
The  eatables  of  every  description  for  sale,  and  we  looked 

waka/  forward  to  a  quiet  afternoon,  when  our  attention  was 
masia.  suddenly  attracted  to  a  rattling  of  musketry  at  some 
distance  below  the  terrace  on  which  our  camp  had  been  pitched. 

What  could  it  be  ?  Surely,  a  coast  caravan,  if  not  Euro- 
peans. An  English  expedition  .P  Perhaps  Stanley,  or  even 
Emin  Pasha  himself  .P 


ARRIVAL    OF   V'ELC'0:]fE    V/STTORS. 


281 


The  Wakamasia  who  stood  around  soon  relieved  me  from 
my  state  of  doubt,  b}'  informing  me  that  this  was  a  caravan  of 
Juma  Kimameta,  well  known  to  me  from  Thomson's  and  also 
from  Teleki's  descriptions  of  travel. 

Presently  the  foremost  of  the  new-comers  appeared  on  the 


"/ S,/f//,  ^/3^>^^,- 


Tpie  Wakamasia  Demand  Teibute, 

slope  of  the  hill.  In  quick  succession  they  fired  their  guns  in 
the  air,  and  1  replied  by  a  shot  from  my  tent.  1  sent  my 
leader  of  the  porters,  Musa,  and  my  servant  Buana  Arrival  of 
Mku,  to  mei't  the  new  arrivals,  and  welcome  them. 
Soon  afterwards  six  picturesquely-attired  Arabs,  the  lenders  ol 
the  approaching  expedition,  made  their  appearance  m  my  tent. 


iJ82  XEW  LKrl-lT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

I  felt  as  the  mariner  may  feel,  who,  sailing  on  an  entirely 
desert  ocean,  perhaps  in  the  Polar  Sea,  suddenly  sights  another 
ship.  The  Arabs  appeared  to  us  almost  like  fellow-country- 
men, for  they  spoke  Kiswahili,  with  which  we  were  well 
acquainted,  and  they  came  from  Pangani,  which  I  knew  so  well 
from  former  years.  Here  in  the  Massai  tribes  the  opposition 
of  interests  to  those  of  the  Arab  race  disappears.  We  have  all 
a  common  interest,  namely,  to  assert  ourselves  against  the  wild 
natives,  who,  on  their  part,  make  hardly  any  difference  between 
Europeans  and  Arabs. 

The  new-comers  told  me  that  they  had  come  down  from 
Turkang,  and  had  tarried  for  some  time  in  Engabot. 

I  asked  them,  natural^,  if  they  had  any  news  of  Emin  Pasha. 

"  Emin  Pasha — who  is  he  .P  " 
conversa  "  ^  '^hite  man,  who  lives  on  the  other  side  of  Tur- 

tion  with    kaug,  by  the  Nile.     Have  the  people  of  Turkang  never 
spoken  to  you  of  such  a  man  ?  " 

"  No,  never." 

"Have  they  not  told  you  that  on  the  western  boundary  of 
their  territory  the  '  Turki '  are  seated  ?  " 

"  No,  nor  that  either." 

"  What  news  do  you  bring  us  down  from  the  north  ?  " 

"  Turkang  is  a  dry  land.  The  inhabitants  are  peaceable, 
but  last  year  the  Massais  came  up,  and  they  have  driven  away 
the  camels  of  the  natives." 

"  You  were  also  in  Engabot — had  you  food  there  ?  " 

"  The  people  of  Engabot  were  formerly  good,  but  now  they 
have  become  bad." 

"  Have  you  any  kind  of  news  from  Kawirondo  ?  " 

"  They  say  that  there  is  a  white  man  in  Kawirondo,  in 
Kabaras,  who  came  round  the  lake.  So  the  people  in  Elmut- 
tiey  told  us  yesterday." 

"  A  white  man  ?  what  kind  of  white  man  P  Does  he  come 
from  the  coast,  or  from  the  interior  P  " 

"He  does  not  come  from  the  coast.  He  is  said  to  have 
many  women  and  soldiers  with  him.  But  who  are  you,  and 
where  do  you  come  from  ?  " 


CONVERSATION   WITH   THE  ARABS.  283 

"I  am  a  German,  and  my  name  is  Kupanda  Sharo— in 
Europe,  Dr.  Peters.     We  have  traA-elled  up  the  Tana, 
through  the  Gallas,  and  across  the  Leikipia  Plateau  ao'ooi^roV 
through  the  Massais.     We  have  beaten  the  Massais, '''"'""■ 
and  burnt  Elbejet.     You  see  yonder  the  remains  of  the  herds 
which  we  have  driven  away  from  them." 

"  Beaten  the  Massais  ?  That  is  very  fine  !  (Ngema  sana  !) 
The  white  men  beat  everyone  now.  Buana  Mkubua  (Count 
Teleki)  beat  the  Wasuk  in  the  north  last  year." 

"  We  are  obliged  to  fight  everywhere,  as  we  will  pay  no 
tribute,  and  the  people  attack  us.  Here  in  Kamasia,  too,  we 
had  a  skirmish  this  very  day." 

"  Very  good.     But  where  do  you  want  to  go  ?  " 

"I. will  go  to  the  white  men  on  the  Nile,  and  in  the  first 
place  to  Uganda.     Have  you  news  from  Uganda  ?  " 

"Not  from  Uganda,  but  you  will  get  every  information  in 
Kawirondo.  There  the  people  are  very  good.  You  may  go  out 
walking  there  without  a  gun — with  a  stick.  There  is  Report  on 
much  to  eat  there,  too,  and  you  will  get  all  the  infor-  kawirondo. 
mation  you  can  possibly  want.  Wangwana  are  living  there, 
too,  from  whom  you  may  buy  stuffs." 

This  was  an  interesting  communication,  but  our  imagina- 
tion was  particularly  excited  by  the  news  about  the  white  men. 
The  information  brought  by  the  Arabs  sounded  mysterious, 
and  we  conjectured  that  it  must  have  a  connection  of  some 
kind  with  the  aim  of  our  expedition.  I  made  the  Arabs  a 
present  of  some  oxen,  and  asked  them  if  they  would  , 

^  '  •'  Arrange- 

carry  a  writing  with  them  for  me  to  the  coast.     They  ment  for 
said  they  would  ;  and,  amid  a  general  salutation  from 
my  people,  they  went  back  to  their  column,  promising  to  return 
in  the  evening. 

Great  was  the  rejoicing  among  my  people  at  the  news  we 
had  heard.  The  generally  expressed  opinion  declared  that  if 
a  white  man,  with  great  herds  of  cattle,  was  in  Kawirondo,  he 
must  be  a  German,  for  other  people  did  not  drive  herds  of 
cattle — so  thought  my  porters  and  soldiers. 

After  breakfast  I  wrote  a  short  report  to  the  German  Emin 


284  NEW  LIGHT   OX  DARK  AFRICA. 

Pasha  committee  on  the  progress  of  the  expedition  up  to  that 
time.  This  report  arrived  safely  in  Zanzibar  at  the  beginning 
of  April,  and  was  the  first  actual  evidence  that  our  expedition 
had  not  been  destroyed.  This  agreeable  work  occupied  me 
until  six  o'clock  in  the  evening. 

After  dinner  the  Arabs,  among  whom  especially  the  very 

intelligent  Buana  Mku,  from  Pangani,  led  the   conversation, 

came  to  us  once  again.     I  treated  them  to  cocoa  and  sugar, 

and    while    the  rain  Mas  falling  without,  we  chatted 

Another  P 

visit  from  away  several  agreeable  hours  m  my  tent,  the  Arabs 

questioning  me  closely,  to  get  information  concerning 
Leikipia,  which  they  seemed  inclined  to  prefer  to  the  Naiwasha 
route.     Our  conversation  was  carried  on  in  the  dark. 

I  have  forgotten  to  mention  until  now,  that  from  Massa 
onward  we  had  been  entirely  without  lights.  There  can  hardly 
be  a  notion,  in  Europe,  of  the  quantity  of  privation  involved  in 
this  slight  circumstance.     It  makes  one  entirely  dependent  on 

the  sun  and  moon  ;  and  when  the  moonlight  failed  us, 
manufac-    we  Were  compelled  to  sup  before  six  o'clock,  and  to  go 

to  bed  directly  afterwards.  It  was  not  till  we  came 
to  Uganda  that  the  idea  occurred  to  me  of  manufacturing  the 
means  of  illumination,  from  our  store  of  fat  and  twisted 
cotton  stuff. 

I  may  mention,  in  this  place,  that  the  English  in  Lamu  had 
taken  from  me  six  hundred  cigars,  so  that  for  this  narcotic 
enjoyment  we  had  to  depend  entirely  on  our  pipes  and  native 
tobacco.  On  the  Baringo  the  last  bottle  of  cognac  was  also 
expended ;  and  now  we  were  restricted,  for  beverages,  to  coffee, 
tea,  and  cocoa,  which,  I  may  observe  by  the  way,  we  found 
eminently  conducive  to  our  health. 

At  parting  I  presented  Buana  Mku  with  a  keg  of  powder 
and  a  new  robe,  and,  bearing  our  despatch,  the  Arabs  withdrew 
Partin  ^°^'  ^^®  night.  Ncxt  moming  there  was  another  leave- 
with Buana  taking,  and  with  mutual  pious  wishes  we  parted  from 

each  other — we  to  proceed  to  Uganda,  they  to  make 
their  way  back  through  the  Massais  of  the  Kilima  Ndsharo. 
This  meeting  with  the  Arab  expedition  was  like  the  first 


ELMUTTIEY ;  ELGEJO  AND  ITS  PEOPLE.  285 

faint  dawning  of  day  for  us,  with  respect  to  our  expedition's 
aim.  In  the  white  man,  who  was  said  to  dwell  in  Kawirondo, 
we  had  a  subject  that  occupied  our  thoughts  during  the  march, 
and  often  enlivened  our  conversation  afterwards.  Each  of  us 
was  now  greatly  thrown  back  upon  himself,  as  Herr  von  Tiede- 
mann's  illness  continued,  and  he  generally  went  to  bed  so  soon 
as  the  day's  march  was  over. 

From  Kapte  we  journeyed  to  Elmuttiey  in  a  march  of  eight 
hours.  Elmuttiey  lies  in  the  great  depression  which  extends 
between  Kamasia  and  Elgejo  in  a  north-west  direction,  and  is 
traversed  by  the  Weiwei  river. 

On  this  day  died  the  Somali  Achmed,  who  was  buried  in 
the  evening,  by  the  light  of  flaming  fires,  by  his  fellow  tribes- 
men. A  very  fantastic  spectacle  was  that  of  his  burial.  They 
uttered  their  Mohamedan  prayers  in  a  kind  of  wild  convulsion. 
Each  man  solemnly  laid  it  on  the  dead  man's  con-  jj^^jj^^f 
science,  to  mention  his  name  in  the  presence  of  Allah,  the  somaii 
Strangers  who  witnessed  this  singular  scene  must  have 
taken  it  for  a  grisly  incantation,  with  magic  formulas  and 
exorcism  of  evil  spirits. 

In  these  depressions,  between  two  towering  walls  of  rock,  a 
very  singular  appearance  is  presented  at  night  by  the  fires 
maintained  in  the  villages  built  on  the  hills.  This  spectacle 
had  already  attracted  us  at  Lake  Baringo,  and  here  it  appeared 
still  more  peculiar. 

I  had  heard  that  there  was  plenty  of  food  at  Elgejo ;  but  the 
people  here  kept  aloof  from  us  in  a  singular  manner.  Inclined 
from  the  beginning  to  insolence,  just  like  the  Wakamasia,  they 
still  did  not  feel  quite  safe  in  approaching  us,  having  heard  of 
the  fate  of  their  tribal  relatives  of  Kamasia,  and  especially  of 
what  had  befallen  the  Massais.  They  are  clothed  like  ne  people 
the  Wakamasia,  whom  they  also  resemble  in  appear-  "f^is^J"- 
ance,  wearing  a  short  cloak  hung  over  the  shoulders,  that  leaves 
the  body  itself  completely  nude.  They  carry  a  slender  spear, 
about  seven  feet  long,  besides  a  bow  and  arrows.  The  language 
here,  as  in  all  the  lands  of  this  region,  is  that  of  the  Massais. 

On  the  recommendation  of  Buana  Mku,  I  had,  immediately 


286  yEW  LIGHT   ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

on  my  arrival  here,  enquired  for  a  guide,  Kirobani,  who,  it  was 
Kirobani,  Said,  knew  the  way  to  Kawirondo,  and,  for  an  adequate 
the  guide,  j-g^ju-jj  j^  Cattle,  would  perhaps  be  inclined  to  show  us 
the  road.  Kirobani  declared  himself  willing,  after  we  had 
settled  to  pay  him  five  sheep  and  a  reasonable  quantity  of  stuff, 
for  his  services. 

As  the  supply  of  provisions  the  column  possessed  did  not 
seem  sufficient  for  the  march  across  the  steppe  that  lay  before 
us,  I  determined  to  remain  here  for  the  following  day,  to  increase 
our  stock.  In  the  morning  I  at  once  sent  my  people  into  the 
villages,  on  the  slope  of  the  mountains,  to  purchase,  but  they 
came  back  in  the  afternoon  with  their  commission  unfulfilled. 
The  natives  would  not  sell  anything  ;  and  all  my  own  efforts  in 
this  direction,  continued  until  the  evening,  were  of  no  avail. 

To  my  chagrin  there  also  arrived  at  my  camp,  on  this  day, 
a  deserter  from  the  Arab  ranks,  whom  unfortunately  I  could  not 
Arrival  of  a  ^snd  back,  as  the  distance  between  the  two  expeditions 
deserter,  ^^g  already  too  great,  and  whom  I  was,  therefore,  com- 
pelled to  receive  into  my  column.  The  man's  name  was  Buana 
Maramba,  and  he  was  a  native  of  Mombassa. 

When  I  resumed  the  march  with  my  column  on  January  18th, 
Kirobani,  in  spite  of  his  emphatic  promise,  had  not  made  his 
appearance.  I  therefore  sent  out  men  to  seek  him,  and  in  the 
meantime  set  forward  with  my  column  towards  the  wall  of  rock 
which  we  had  to  climb. 

Kirobani,  who  had  already  received  part  of  his  payment,  was 
discovered  by  my  people,  hiding  in  a  mtama  field.  I  went  up 
to  him  and  said,  "  Forward  now,  old  boy  !  Show  us  the  way  to 
Misconduct  Kawiroudo."  A  short  dogged  "  A-a-a  !  "  was  the  reply 
of  Kirobani.  ^.Q  ^j  eucouraging  address.  I  said,  "Forward!" 
Again  the  snarling,  "  A-a-a  !  "  Thereupon  I  took  him  by  the 
shoulder,  and  gave  him  a  slight  shake.  Then  he  snarled,  just 
like  a  cat  setting  up  its  back  against  a  dog.  My  patience  was 
exhausted.  A  well-aimed  blow  in  the  face,  and  a  cord  fastened 
round  his  neck  by  the  Somalis,  made  it  manifest  to  Kirobani 
that  I  was  not  inclined  to  have  my  contracts  broken  in  that  un- 
ceremonious way.     He  immediately  assumed  a  very  polite  and 


OUR   TRUSTWORTHY  GUIDE  KIROBANI.  287 

modest  demeanour,  and  strode  onward,  up  the  mountain,  in  the 
most  cheerful  manner,  followed  b}'  my  column.  This  morning 
I  was  compelled  to  have  the  last  but  one  of  my  camels  killed,  as 
it  was  entirely  unable  to  march  up  the  rocky  path. 

A  little  before  twelve  o'clock,  I  encamped  on  a  promontory, 
half  way  up  the  ascent,  where  a  little  brook  went  rippling  by. 

I  caused  Kirobani,  who  was  now  our  very  good  friend,  to  be 
chained  up  ;  and  in  this  situation  he  received  the  visits  of  his 
family.  I  had  him  well  fed,  and  he  said  I  might  quite  safely 
set  him  at  liberty,  for  he  was  glad  to  go  with  us  to  Kawirondo. 
But  I  was  not  sufficiently  convinced  of  this  gladness  of  heart  in 
him,  and  consequently  persevered  in  the  measures  I  had  taken. 

To  strengthen  our  last  remaining  camel,  the  Somalia  cooked 
a  whole  sheep  for  it.     To  our  great  astonishment  the  The  cami- 
beast  ate  up  the  flesh,  quite  ravenously,  to  the  last  camei! 
morsel. 

On  this  day  also,  all  our  efforts  to  procure  food  for  the 
caravan  failed.  The  natives  would  not  sell  anything,  while  on 
the  other  hand  their  behaviour  was  not  such  as  to  justify  a 
declaration  of  war. 

In  the  evening  a  violent  shower  of  rain  poured  down  upon 
us,  which  we  welcomed  gladly,  because  it  strengthened  the  hope 
that  we  should  succeed  in  finding  water  on  the  Angata  na  Nyuki 
(red  plain).  But  the  night  was  dark  as  pitch,  so  that  one  could 
not  see  one's  hand  before  one's  eyes,  and  the  outposts  had 
taken  refuge  from  the  sheets  of  rain  under  the  tent-roof  of  the 
Somalis.  Here  was  an  opportunity  for  Kirobani,  of  which  Escape  of 
he  did  not  fail  to  take  advantage.  Next  morning  he  kirobani. 
had  vanished,  with  the  chain  round  his  foot.  He  had  only  been 
able  to  take  the  shortest  of  steps,  like  Gretchen  on  the  Blocks- 
berg,  when  Faust  beheld  her  in  the  distance  ;  but,  for  all  that, 
he  was  nowhere  to  be  found.  Accordingly,  I  had  to  face  the 
disagreeable  necessity  of  marching  forward  upon  Kawirondo 
without  a  guide,  after  all. 

All  night  through,  there  had  been  a  wild  yowling  and  roaring 
noise  in  the  villages  above  us.  The  inhabitants  had  been  hold- 
ing high  revel  throughout  the  dark  hours,  and  looked  dissipated 


288  yEW  LIGHT  OX  DARK  AFRICA. 

enough  when  we  continued  our  march  up  the  rocky  incline  next 
morning. 

The  ascent  became  steeper  and  steeper.  After  passing  the 
villages,  we  presently  came  to  a  strip  of  forest.  Here  we  suc- 
ceeded  in  striking  a  bargain  with  three  men  from  Elgejo, 
Eigejo  who  agreed,  in  consideration  of  a  stipulated  number  of 
^"^  *'■  arm-lengths  of  stuff,  to  lead  us  up  to  the  plateau,  and 
then  to  return.  When  the  belt  of  forest  had  been  passed,  we 
came  to  another  shoulder  of  the  mountain,  where  I  halted,  to 
wait  for  my  herd  and  the  donkeys.  Here  it  was  reported  to  me 
that  two  donkeys  had  fallen  down,  and  could  go  no  further,  and 
that  a  part  of  the  herd  had  also  dropped  behind. 

From  all  sides  Waelgejo  came  running  up  in  many 
hundreds,  even  in  thousands,  and  their  demeanour  towards  us 
was  manifestly  more  equivocal  than  on  the  two  preceding  days. 
At  length  the  herd  emerged  from  the  wooded  thicket,  and.  now 
we  went  on,  upward  along  the  dizzy  path  on  the  margin  of 
the  rock. 

At  its  highest  point  the  Elgejo  Plateau  is  crowned  by  a  lava 

cap,  which  descends  perpendicularly,  and  would  be  quite  inacces- 

sible,  but  that  it  is  traversed  by  a  cleft,  in  which  one 

J.  116  ^r6Sil 

Elgejo       can  climb  upward,  as  on  a  staircase.     But  to  do  this, 
it  is  of  course  necessary  to  know  where  this  cleft  is 
situated. 

Where  the  lava  cap  surmounts  the  rock  is  another  shoulder, 
on  which  there  is  room  for  the  encampment  of  a  caravan.  This 
point  was  occupied  by  a  crowd  of  Waelgejo,  and  when  I 
appeared  upon  it,  with  the  advanced  guard,  my  three  guides 
suddenly  stepped  aside,  and  refused  to  show  me  the  entrance  to 
the  rocky  staircase.  All  my  persuasions  were  answered  with  a 
stubborn,  "  A-a-a !  "  and  when  I  at  last  laid  my  hand  upon 
Quarrel  °^^  °^  *^®  ^'^^>  *°  compel  him  to  do  his  duty,  for 
withtiie  which  he  had  been  paid  in  advance,  a  wild  war-cry 
suddenly  arose  among  the  Waelgejo.  They  brandished 
their  spears,  advanced  upon  me  in  a  demonstrative  manner,  and 
from  rock  to  rock  the  war-howl  echoed  across  the  land. 

All    at    once    musket    shots    rattled    from    below.      The 


FIGHT   WITH  THE   WAELGEJO.  289 

Waelgejo  had  thrown  themselves  across  the  path  of  the 
Somalis  and  my  herd  to  steal  the  cattle.  This  was  enough  ! 
As  the  Waelgejo  now  also  began  to  shoot  at  us  from  above 
with  arrows,  we  fired  among  them,  whereby  three  of 
them  were  killed;  whereupon  the  rest  quickly  dis-  '"'™''** 
appeared  behind  boulders  of  rock  to  the  right.  "We  succeeded 
in  getting  hold  of  at  least  one  of  the  guides,  whom  we  secured 
with  cords,  to  compel  him  in  this  manner  to  show  us  the  last 
ascent. 

From  behind  their  rocky  screens,  the  Waelgejo  continued 
their  war-howl  and  their  shooting  with  arrows,  which,  however, 
was  entirely  without  result.  I  contented  myself  with  firing  off 
my  double-barrelled  rifle,  for  which  I  had  still  five  hundred 
■cartridges,  in  their  direction  every  now  and  then,  to  The  easy 
keep  the  horde  at  a  distance.  The  Somalis  below  had  ''"'""^y- 
also  very  soon  put  their  opponents  to  the  rout ;  and,  after  wait- 
ing an  hour,  I  had  the  satisfaction  of  seeing  not  only  my 
herd,  but  also  the  remaining  camel  and  the  donkeys  make  their 
appearance  at  our  halting-place. 

We  now  went  onwards  towards  the  last  rocky  ascent.     The 
guide  had  to  show  us  the  approach,  willingly  or  unwillingly,  and 
we  began  to  climb  upward  step  by  step.     Unfortunately,  how- 
«ver,  in  spite  of  my  warning,  he  suddenly  sprang  aside  from  the 
rocky  path  right  into  the  depth,  clinging  to  the  bushes,  in  an 
attempt  at  flight.     One  of  my  people  shot  down  at  him,       . 
and  so,  to  my  regret,  this  Elgejo  man  fell  also ;  for  rigibie 
which  I  was  the  more  sorry,  as  we  knew  the  way  now,  ^"^ '" 
and  the  skirmish  with  his  fellow-tribesmen  might  be  considered 
as  ended. 

At  length  we  had  gained  the  summit,  and  before  us,  on  the 
heights  of  Elgejo,  at  an  elevation  of  2700  feet,  lay  a  thick  forest 
of  juniper  trees,  into  which  a  path  led.  Here  I  halted,  to  wait 
for  the  whole  column.  Gradually  the  porters  came  panting 
along,  and  I  had  to  send  them  back  immediately  to  ^^^^^  ^^ 
bring  up  the  burdens  of  the  animals.     It  was  reported  the  last 

I  1      •        1       camel. 

to  me  that  the  camel  had  unfortunately  stuck  m  the 
narrow  path,  and  could  neither  be  moved  forward  nor  back.     I 

19 


290  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

was  obliged  to  give  the  order  to  have  its  throat  cut,  to  prevent 
it  from  falling  into  the  hands  of  the  ^\'aelgejo,  and  to  make 
room  for  the  column.  After  two  hours  of  strenuous  labour  all 
of  us  were  at  the  top. 

Under  us,  at  a  dizzy  depth,  lay  the  settlements  of  the 
Waelgejo,  from  whom  we  were  now  delivered ;  before  us  the 
wood,  which  must  lead  us  to  the  Angata  na  Nyuki.  Forward, 
therefore,  on  the  path,  at  whose  entrance  we  were  encamped, 
and  which,  in  the  meantime,  I  had  already  had  inspected  by 
A  difficult  Rukua  and  a  Somali.  The  road  was  rendered  much 
path.  more  difficult  by  a  kind  of  sharp  stinging  nettle,  which 
hung  across  it  on  both  sides.  But  half  an  hour  brought  us  to 
the  opposite  end,  and  now  there  lay  before  us  the  Angata  na 
Nyuki,  which  separates  Elgejo  from  Kawirondo.  The  afternoon 
was  grey  and  cold,  as  in  the  Highlands  of  Scotland.  Now  and 
then  a  slight  shower  of  rain  descended  upon  us,  and  a  cold 
autumnal  wind  whistled  from  the  north  across  the  steppe  that 
lay  spread  before  us. 

This  day  I  encamped  a  couple  of  miles  further  on,  at  the 
edge  of  a  thick  wood.  We  found  no  water  to-day,  but  I 
descried  a  black  swampy  ground,  out  of  which  my  people 
pressed  a  liquid,  that  though  sufficiently  sandy,  yet  made  it 
possible  for  us  at  least  to  boil  soup  and  meat  in  the  evening, 
and  to  drink  a  cup  of  tea. 

Next  morning  we  proceeded  in  a  due  westerly  direction  up 
to  the  completely  bare  Angata  na  Nyuki  (red  plain).  To  the 
right,  just  in  the  north,  we  sighted  the  Ischibscharagnani,  and 
March  to  ^^^^  *°  *^®  right,  in  the  north-west,  the  Elgon,  the  two 
the  Angata  corresponding  mountains  to  the  Kenia  and  Subugu  la 
Poron  on  the  other  side  of  the  Baringo  Falls.  This 
Angata  na  Nyuki,  in  its  whole  character  and  structure,  exactly 
corresponds  to  the  Leikipia  Plateau,  which  it  even  somewhat 
exceeds  in  elevation.  The  equivalent  to  Kikuyu,  which 
stretches  beyond  the  Leikipia  in  the  south,  is  furnished  on  this 
side  by  the  land  of  Wandi  in  the  south.  The  whole  enormous 
ridge  gradually  declines  towards  the  west,  towards  the  Victoria 
Nyanza,  to  about  4,000  feet,  and  to  any  one  who  traverses  it 


DESERT  REGION  OF  ANGATA   NA   NYUKl.  291 

with  an  observant  eye  the  unity  of  its  geological  character 
becomes  indisputably  apparent.  The  action  of  the  expansive 
central  forces,  which  have  thrown  it  upward  in  immeasurably 
distant  times,  must  be  acknowledged  in  the  Baringo  territory. 

But  whereas  the  Leikipia  Plateau  had  been  peopled  by 
human  beings,  here  in  the  Angata  na  Nyuki  we  came  into  an 
entirely  uninhabited  region.  Not  so  very  long  ago  there  lived 
here  tribes  related  to  the  Wakamasia  and  Waelgejo.  These 
have  been  exterminated,  to  the  last  man,  by  the  a  deserted 
southern  Massai  tribes,  and  at  this  day  the  empty  """''t'^y' 
steppe  is  traversed  only  by  the  flying  feet  of  great  herds  of 
antelopes  and  zebras,  and  by  the  rhinoceros  and  buffalo.  Each 
rising  and  each  declivity  appears  in  clear  outlines  through  the 
transparent  air.  Before  us,  on  the  horizon,  rise  the  Surrongai 
Hills,  which  we  shall  have  to  traverse  to  reach  Kawirondo. 

A  dreamy  feeling  steals  over  the  heart  in  this  magnificent 
solitude  ;  a  solitude  only  broken  once  in  a  couple  of  years  by 
a  caravan  wending  towards  the  west.  Yonder  is  the  ^^^^^  g^jj_ 
Elgon,  apparently  so  tangibl)^  near  that  it  seems  as  tude  of 
if  we  might  get  to  it  in  a  few  hours.  Does  it  not  seem 
to  look  scornfully  and  contemptuously  down  upon  us  puny 
mortals,  and  to  ask  what  we  are  seeking  here,  where  Eternity 
itself  has  set  up  its  habitation,  and  gazes  down  upon  us  ? 

In  Elgon,  according  to  Thomson,  there  are  to  be  found 
singular  cave  structures,  which  led  him  to  conjecture  that  ages 
ago  a  civilised  people  had  laboured  here.  What  a  historical 
past  has  once  run  its  course  on  this  marvellous  scene  !  Are 
they  the  voices  of  old  hero-races  that  speak  to  us  in  the 
strange  accents  of  the  north  wind  sweeping  across  the  plain  ? 

We  have  now  emerged  from  the  dry  zone.     The  clouds  are 
fantastically  piled  up  on  the  horizon,  and  press  forward  with  the 
storm  over  the  Angata  na  Nyuki.     Daily  the  dark  heaven  pours 
down  its  waters  in  heavy  showers  of  rain  upon  the  violent 
thirsty  earth,  which  is  already  becoming  overspread  thundei- 
with  a  new  freshly  green  surface  of  grass.     Like  the  »t'"^°'=- 
rolling  of  drums,  the  heavy  raindrops  fall  pelting  down  upon  the 
tents,  and  the  organ  pipe  of  the  wind  sounds  among  the  reeds 


292  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

on  the  river's  brink.  In  Nature  more  violent  combats  are  ex- 
hibited. The  firmament  rolls  its  stormy  clouds  together,  to  call 
forth  the  dark  forces  in  the  womb  of  the  earth.  Threateningly 
the  cloud  army  is  marshalled  onward,  and  flash  upon  flash  of 
lightning  darts  across  the  dark  plain,  now  blinding  white,  now 
glittering  blue,  and,  like  the  discharge  of  cannon,  roll  peal  upon 
peal  the  short,  echoless  thunder-claps ;  and  we  have  now,  every 
evening,  the  opportunity  of  observing  the  spectacle  of  the  sheet 
lightning  flashing  before  us  in  the  south-west,  from  the  region 
of  the  Victoria  Nyanza. 

The  temperature  is  cool  and  agreeable.  The  nights  are  not 
so  cold  as  on  the  Leikipia  Plateau,  and,  on  the  other  hand,  the 
■days  are  less  hot.  We  have  almost  the  temperature  of  northern 
Europe  during  the  latter  half  of  September.  The  water  question 
has  also  assumed  a  satisfactory  appearance. 

Already  on  the  first  day  we  came  to  a  southern  tributary 
of  the  Nsoia,  and  the  farther  we  marched  towards  the  west  the 
Success  and  Hiore  quickly  did  brook  succeed  to  brook,  so  that  we  had 
good  spirits.  Qf^gjj  to  cross  about  a  dozen  of  them  on  one  morning. 
The  cares  of  the  weeks  we  have  left  behind  us  are  flown,  and 
the  soul  can  look  into  itself  with  tranquillity. 

Yonder  before  us,  in  the  north-west,  to  the  left  of  Elgon, 
opens  the  gate  which  might  lead  us  to  the  lands  of  Emin  Pasha. 
How  if  we  were  to  press  forward  directly  towards  it  ?  The  temp- 
tation is  sufficiently  strong,  but  we  are  still  entirely  without 
intelligence  of  what  may  have  happened,  in  the  interval,  in  the 
Equatorial  Province ;  and,  on  the  other  hand,  Kawirondo  beckons 
us,  and  the  mysterious  form  of  the  white  man,  of  whom  we 
have  been  told  in  Kamasia.  Forward,  therefore,  in  a  direct 
line,  towards  the  Surrongai  Mountains ! 

I  was  startled  out  of  such  lucubrations  as  these,  on  the 
Angata  na  Nyuki,  by  a  dream  that  had  about  it  almost  the 
character  of  clairvoyance.  As  a  general  thing,  I  dream  little 
or  not  at  all ;  but  already,  on  the  Upper  Tana,  I  had  had  three 
times  one  and  the  same  dream,  which  was  bound  to  influence 
my  frame  of  mind,  if  not  my  decision.  Three  times,  on  the 
Upper  Tana,  when  the  continuous  barrier  of  the  river  began  to 


A   REMARKABLE  DREAM.  293 

tire  us  all  out,  I  had  dreamt  that  I  had  given  up  the  expedition 
at  this  stage,  that  I  had  marched  back  to  Mombas,  and  was 
now  in  Germany.     On  each  of  the  three  occasions,  the  a  curious 
first  joy  at  meeting  my  friends  again  in  my  native  ^"^ea"!- 
country  had  been  succeeded  by  an  exceedingly  painful  feeling, 
because  the  expedition  had  been  interrupted  here  in  the  midst ; 
and  immediately  a  lively  wish  had  arisen,  to  take  it  up  again 
where  it  had  been  abandoned.     Each  time  I  had  awoke  with  the 
anxious  feeling, — How  shall  I  again  get  through  the  blockade 
into  the  interior,  and  to  the  place  from  which  I  returned  home  P 
On  the  Angata  na  Nyuki  I  lay  sleeping  one  night,  and  dreamt 
I  was  in  the  place  where,  in  fact,  I  had  encamped  that  day,  but 
that  the  appearance  of  Africa  had  changed.     I  was  not  in  my 
tent,  but  in  a  stone  house,  which  had  been  built  by  Germans, 
and  where,  besides  the  Government  architect,  Hoernecke,  there 
dwelt  some  other  engineers  and  several  ladies.     I  entered  the 
house,  mentioned  my  name,  and  told  how  we  had  come  here 
after  heavy  combats  against  the  Massais,  and  that  I  proposed  to 
march  to  Emin  Pasha.     I  was  received  very  amiably  by  all,  but 
to  my  last  observation  they  replied  unanimously,  "To  Emin 
Pasha !     But  he  is  in  Berlin.     How  is  it  you  are  seek-  -^^^  ^ 
ing  for  Emin  Pasha  here  in  Central  Africa  ?  " — I  said,  conversa- 
"Emin  Pasha  is  in  Berlin?     But  what  are  you  doing 
here?" — "Do  you  not  know  that   either?     We  are   here  to 
build  a  railway  to  Uganda." — "  And  what  is  Emin  Pasha  doing 
in  Berlin  ?  "— "  He  has  left  the  Equatorial  Province  long  ago." 
— "  I  do  not  believe  that.     At  any  rate,  I  must  ascertain  that 
at  the  place  itself." 

During  this  last  part  of  our  conversation  we  continually 
heard  a  discontented  growling,  as  of  something  supernatural. 
It  was  as  though  a  ghostly  thing  were  rushing  onward,  nearer 
and  nearer. 

In  the  perturbation  it  occasioned  I  awoke,  and  found  mysslf 
in  the  midst  of  one  of  the  tropical  rain-showers  of  which  I  have 
spoken. 

Thus  ended  this  dream,  which  made  a  certain  lasting  im- 
pression on  my  fancy.     This  is  not  the  place  to  touch  upon  the 


294  XE]V  LIGHT  OX  DARK  AFRICA. 

secret  of  dream- life  ;  but  perhaps  it  may  occur  now  and  then 
that  the  enigmatical  power  which  surrounds  and  enfolds  life 
can,  in  certain  situations,  exert  an  influence  in  this  manner  on 
the  resolutions  of  individuals. 

As  a  landmark  for  my  march,  I  had,  from  the  very  first  day, 
chosen  a  lofty  eminence  in  the  Surrongai  Hills,  which,  in  con- 
trast to  the  other  heights,  looked  quite  white,  and  manifestly 
A  useful  formed  the  eastern  projection  of  these  mountains.  The 
landmark,  ^yhitc  colour  arose,  as  I  afterwards  ascertained,  from  the 
fact  that  the  grass  on  the  other  hills  had  been  burnt  up,  and 
only  remained  on  this  one. 

On  January  22nd  we  crossed  the  Guaso  Marim,  and  on 
the  following  day  we  entered  the  Surrongai  Hills  themselves. 
The  Angata  na  Nyuki  becomes  more  and  more  luxuriant  the 
further  we  advance  to  the  west.  Towards  the  west,  also,  are 
glorious  stretches  of  wood,  and  by  the  courses  of  the  springs 
we  again,  after  a  long  time,  came  upon  the  fan  palm.  The 
number  of  game  animals  increases  more  and  more.  Herds  of 
Enorm  us  ^^^ff^'^o,  to  be  couuted  by  thousands, — or,  I  may  say, 
lerds  of  teus  of  thousauds  of  head, — graze  by  the  margin  of  the 
■  forest,  rushing  off  in  a  thundering  gallop  when  the  rifle 
bullet  crashes  in  among  them.  On  January  24th  I  shot  five 
buffaloes,  which  all  fell,  though  I  could  only  secure  one  ..gigantic 
specimen,  as  a  pursuit,  even  of  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  would 
have  been  too  great  an  interruption  to  the  business  of  the  expe- 
dition. To  give  my  people  time  to  cut  up  the  great  beast,  I 
set  up  my  camp  at  noon  near  the  western  slope  of  the  Surrongai 
Hills,  once  more  halting  this  side  of  Kawirondo. 

It  was  a  dull,  rainy  day,  but  we  were  all  in  a  state  of 
joyous  excitement ;  for  now  we  knew  for  certain  that  next 
morning  we  should  reach  the  fruitful  land  of  Kawirondo, 
where  we  hoped  to  receive  news  concerning  the  object  of 
our  expedition. 

Just  before  two  o'clock,  four  Wandorobbo  suddenly  ap- 
peared at  my  camp.  I  invited  them  to  stay  the  night  with 
us,  and  on  the  next  day  to  show  us  a  convenient  way  down 
into  Kawirondo,  which  was  situated  at  a  considerably  lower 


THE  DESCENT  TO  KAWIRONDO.  29-5 

level.      On  this  daj'-,  January  25th,   it  was  proved  that  the 
course  I  had  pursued,  without  alteration  from  Elgeio,  „ 

.      1  '     .    -  &  J    '  Fortunate 

had  been  entirely  the  right  one.     In  an  almost  direct  route  to 
line   we   struck   Kabaras,   having   deviated   from   the 
chief  town  only  half  a  mile,  towards  the  north. 

A  march  of  three-quarters  of  an  hour  brought  us  to-day, 
first  to  the  edge  of  the  Surrongai  Mountains,  and  then  we  all 
at  once  beheld  before  us  the  villages  and  plantations  of  Kawi- 
rondo,  from  among  which  cheerful,  fair-promising  clouds  of 
smoke  rose  towards  the  sky. 

The  Wandorobbo  accurately  pointed  out  the  chief  place  of 
Kabaras,  and  then  begged  permission  to  return,  as  they  were  at 
war  with  the  Kawirondo  people.     I  granted  their  request. 

We  had  now  before  us  the  difficult  task  of  finding  a  way 
down  to  the  lower  ground.  The  Angata  na  Nyuki  here  forms 
an  almost  perpendicular  wall  of  1,400  feet,  and,  at  first  sight, 
it  seemed  impossible  to  commence  the  descent.  Twice  we  were 
obliged  to  turn  back,  because  again  and  again  there  were  a  difficult 
places  where  the  descent  was  literally  perpendicular,  and  »<!ra"i''ie- 
which  were  impassable.  At  last  I  discovered  a  more  gradual 
slope  ;  and  here,  going  on  in  advance  with  the  Somali  Omar 
Idle,  I  found  a  way  for  my  caravan,  first  over  loose  rocks,  and 
then  through  grass  as  tall  as  a  man. 

Within  two  hours,  all  had  arrived  below,  and  I  now  resumed 
my  march  exactly  in  a  western  direction,  according  to  a  land- 
mark I  had  fixed  upon  above.  I  marched  till  nearly  three  in 
the  afternoon,  and  halted  when  I  found  myself  by  the  side  of 
a  stream,  opposite  the  first  plantations  of  the  Wakawirondo. 
According  to  my  custom,  I  wished  to  meet  the  inhabitants  of 
the  country  for  the  first  time,  not  with  a  weary  and  hungry 
caravan,  but  on  the  next  morning,  with  one  refreshed  by  rest. 

I  had  marched  in  advance,  with  Rukua,  Hussein,  and  two 
other  Somalis,  and  I  now  sent  two  Somalis  back  to  bring  up 
my  people.  It  was  more  than  an  hour  before  they  succeeded  in 
bringing  in  the  herd,  and  it  was  almost  six  o'clock  when  Rukua, 
whom  I  sent  off  later,  managed  to  find  the  porters  and  Herr 
von  Tiedemann,  who  had  lost  their  way,  and  branched  off  in  a 


296  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

wrong  direction  to  the  south.  There  was  just  enough  time  to 
set  up  the  tents  before  it  grew  dark,  and  then  the  usual  stormy 
rain  came  splashing  down  upon  us.  But  the  kitchen  was  under 
a  tent-roof,  and  so  we  could  enjoy  a  strengthening 
under  soup  and  some  roast  mutton, — each  of  us  separately, 
■  however,  as  Herr  von  Tiedemann  was  still  ill ;  and 
afterwards  over  a  pipe,  while  the  rain,  now  more  gentle  and 
melodious,  continued  to  fall,  we  gave  ourselves  up  to  pleasant 
contemplation  of  the  improved  prospects  of  our  expedition. 

A  short  march  of  hardly  half  an  hour  brought  us,  next 
morning,  to  the  first  villages  of  the  people  of  Kabaras.  I  fired 
off  two  shots  as  a  greeting,  and  then,  with  the  flag  borne  in 
advance,  we  marched  with  beat  of  drum  upon  the  capital, 
Kabaras,  a  place  encircled  by  a  wall  of  clay,  at  the  northern 
entrance  of  which  sat  the  elders,  ready  to  give  us  a  friendly 
welcome.  "  Jambo  Sdna  !  "  was  the  cry.  We  turned  off  to  the 
left  outside  the  town,  and  under  some  mighty  cotton  trees,  a 
little  below  the  southern  enclosure  of  Kabaras,  we  pitched  our 
camp. 

My  first  enquiry  was  naturally  after  the  white  man  in 
News  of     Kawirondo.       "Are   there    any   white    men    in   Ka- 

wMtemen.  ^ondo  .P  " 

"  Yes,"  was  the  simultaneous  reply  of  all. 

"  How  many  ?  " 

"  Some  say  two,  and  others  four." 

"  Have  the  white  men  many  soldiers  ?  " 

"  Yes,  a  very  great  number,  and  every  morning  they  blow 
the  trumpet,  just  as  you  do." 

"  Do  you  know  the  names  of  the  white  men  ?  Is  one  of 
them  called  Emin  Pasha  ?     And  are  Turkis  among  them  ?  " 

"  Emin  Pasha  ?     We  don't  know  him." 

"  Where  do  the  white  men  come  from  ?  Do  they  come  from 
the  coast,  or  have  they  come  from  the  interior  ?  " 

"  They  have  come  from  the  south,  round  the  Nyanza." 

"  Then  perhaps  their  leader  is  called  Stanley  ?  " 

"  Yes,  yes,  quite  right,  Stamuley." 

These  questions  I  addressed  repeatedly  to  several  of  the 


"  TO  ANY  EUROPEAN  GENTLEMAN."  297 

Wakawirondo,  and  always  got  the  same  answer,  "Yes,  cer- 
tainly, Stamuley.  They  have  also  cattle  with  them— a  great 
herd,  and  their  head  man  is  called  Stamuley !  " 

That  was  certainly  a  very  notable  piece  of  news  for  us. 
Could  Stanley,  of  whose  movements  I  knew  nothing  further 
than  that  he  had  marched  back,  the  first  time,  from  Mwutan 
Nzige  to  the  Congo,  perhaps  have  marched  to  the  Victoria 
Nyanza  by  the  Udidji  Tabora  road,  and  from  thence  to 
Kawirondo,  to  get  in  touch  with  Emin  Pasha  from  that  place  ; 
or  was  Emin  Pasha  with  him,  though  perchance  the  natives 
did  not  know  the  Pasha's  name  ? 

I  immediately  sat  down,  and  wrote  the  following  letter:  — 

"Kabaras,  January  2Qth,  1890. 

"  SiR,^On  my  arrival  here  this  morning  I  got  news,  that 
Europeans  are  in   Kwa  Sundu.     As  I  shall  arrive  at 

Letter  to  a 

Kwa  Sundu  on  Wednesday  or  Thursday  next,  I  shall  possible 
be  charmed  to  meet  any  gentleman  who  may  be  at    "'^"p®*''' 
that  place,  and  shall  be  obliged  for  a  line  to  tell  me  whom 
I  may  have  the  pleasure  to  see. 

"  I  have  the  honour.  Sir,  to  be,  yours  truly, 

"  Dr.  Gael  Peters. 
"  To  any  European  gentleman  who  may  be  in  Kwa  Sundu  or 
in  Kawirondo." 

This  letter  I  immediately  sent  off  by  the  two  Somalis, 
Sameter  and  Jama  Ismael,  with  a  Kawirondo  man  for  a  guide, 
to  Kwa  Sundu,  with  orders  to  send  me  the  answer  to  Kwa 
Sakwa,  to  which  place  I  intended  to  march  next  day. 

Meanwhile  I  observed,  with  real  interest,  the  remarkable 
figures  of  the  Kawirondo  people,  who  crowded  into  my  camp. 
In  great  gourd  bottles  they  brought  grain  of  all  kinds,  ^^^  g^^._ 
and  honey,  besides  eggs,  fowls,  and  milk.  The  men  are  rondo 
clothed  with  an  apron,  but  the  ladies  of  the  land  are  as 
unclad  as  possible ;  a  remarkable  contrast  to  the  Massailands, 
where  exactly  the  reverse  was  the  case.  Only  the  married 
women  wore  an  apron  of  very  limited  size,  and  had  also  rings 


298 


.Y/-:ir  LinuT  ox  davk  afjuca. 


oil  tln'ir  ;ir]iis  niul  k\i>s  and  in  their  ears,  and  cliains  aliout  their 
iiecl;s.  The  inmiarried  j^irls  went  abont  exactly  as  Heaven  liad 
made  them. 

Mingied   with  the  L'antii  jjopnlation  are  here  to  he  tiniiKh 


Wakawieosdo. 


everywhere,  fragments  of  the  once  mighty  Earingo-x\Iassai  trihe, 
called  Wakuafi,  who  were  driven  ont  trom  the  Angata  na  Nyuki 
by  the  Southern  Massais.  Here  they  generally  do  landskneclit- 
service  for  the  native  sultans,  and,  in  fact,  supply  the  principal 
warrior  contingent  f  jr  the  whole  of  Kawirondo. 


-VAXyEBS    OF    THE    WAKAWIBOXDO. 


299 


Thomson  has  much  to  tell  of  the  danger  of  his  position  in 
Kawn-oudo.  He  was  veiy  apprehensive  of  being  killed.  I  must 
confess  that  we  experienced  no  anxieties  of  the  kind,  among 
these  simple  and  sociable  ix^oiile.     In  fact,  it  was  true 

,      ,     .1         4       ,        .        T-  \      \  ■  ,  '  Mr.  Thom- 

Avtiat  the  Arabs  m  Kapte  had  said,  one  could  go  (_»ut  son's 
walking  here  without  arms,  and  only  with  a  walking-  °^'"'°''- 
stick.     Among  the  Massais  themselves,  Thomson  had  exhibited 


p''" 


Wakawikoxdo. 


a  good  nature  of  which  I  have  alread}'  spoken.  That  this  good 
nature  did  not  altogether  emanate  from  the  Christian  feeling  of 
love  for  oue's  neighbour,  in  pursuance  of  the  command  to  offer 
the  right  cheek  when  the  left  is  smitten,  Th(jmson  manifests 
by  the  description  of  his  behaviour  towards  the  31assais  in 
Kawirondo,  in  his  work  entitled  "Among  the  Massai."  He 
tells  how  the  Wakawirondo  attempted  the  same  insolent  bragga- 
docio and  arros;ance,   but  how  he  soon  made  them  understand 


300  XEW  LIGHT  OX  DARK  AFRICA. 

that  what  he  had  put  up  with  from  the  Massais  in  tlieir  own 
country,  he  would  not  endure  from  them  ;  and  further  acknow- 
ledges that,  from  a  certain  desire  of  vengeance,  long  suppressed, 
it  gave  him  no  small  satisfaction  to  encounter  those  rascals 
wrathfuU}',  when  any  one  of  them  tried  his  patience ;  and  that 
his  people  were  equally  charmed  to  have  it  out  with  them,  and 
to  threaten,  with  tremendous  objurgations,  to  inflict  unspeakable 
torments  upon  them. 

I  have  also  always  found  the  Massais  in  Kawirondo  quite 
well  behaved  with  respect  to  us,  and  was  not  obliged,  on  a 
single  occasion,  to  repel  insolence  on  their  part. 

The  luxurious  plenty  in  food,  in  this  country,  had  a  per- 
fectly inspiring  effect  on  us  and  my  people.  The  fowls  were 
fat  and  tender,  and  three  of  them  were  scarcely  sufficient  to 
satisfy  the  appetite  of  one  of  us  at  breakfast,  so  strong  was 
the  craving  of  our  bodies,  after  the  toils  of  the  last  months, 
A  land  of  to  patch  themselves  up  anew.  The  honey  was  perfectly 
plenty.  ^yhite,  like  sugar,  and  deliciously  fragrant  of  flowers. 
We  had  also  milk  and  eggs,  which  latter  were  eaten  in  the 
poached,  and  especially  in  the  omelet  form.  Beans  and  corn, 
and  grain  fruits  of  all  kinds,  eaten  with  milk,  as  porridge,  or 
with  strong  gravy  as  a  concomitant  of  meat,  formed  an  agree- 
able change  from  our  ordinary  meat  diet ;  and  glorious  bananas, 
eaten  raw,  or  baked  in  fat  and  sugar,  made  a  capital  dessert. 
The  whole  world  appeared  in  new  colours ;  and  then,  the 
mysterious  white  men  were  in  the  immediate  vicinity. 

On  January  27th  we  celebrated  the  Emperor's  birthday  by 
a  special  dinner,  and  with  beat  of  drum  we  went,  on  the  28th, 
with  our  guide  in  advance,  on  well-made  paths,  towards  the 
south.  The  landscape  put  on  a  more  and  more  cultivated 
appearance,  with  villages  close  to  each  other,  and  well-fed  herds 
of  oxen  to  be  seen  in  the  meadows.  When  we  marched  past,  a 
settlement  of  people  would  come  and  offer  corn,  milk,  and  honey 
Fear  of  the  for  Sale.  Here  the  reputation  of  the  conquerors  of  the 
Massais.  Massais  produced  its  full  etfect.  I  dare  to  assert  that 
on  the  strength  of  this  fact  we  were  more  popular  in  Kawirondo 
than  in  any  other  part  of  our  march,  for  here  the  Massais  are 


INTERVIEW  WITH   WANGWANA.  301 

sufficiently  known  in  all  their  brutal  cruelty  and  dangerous 
wildness. 

Between  two  villages,  on  a  lovely  declivity  in  a  richly- 
cultivated  plain,  I  pitched  my  camp  on  this  day,  and  unfurled 
the  great  flag  of  the  expedition  at  the  margin  of  the  slope,  so 
that  it  was  visible  over  the  whole  landscape. 

Scarcely  had  I  had  the  tents  set  up,  when  suddenly  shots 
were  fired  in  the  low  ground  beneath  us,  and  directly 


afterwards  five  men,  clad  in  white  shirts,  came  hurrying  from  the 
up  at  full  speed,  with  friendly  greetings. 

"  There  come  the  messengers  from  the  white  men  !  "  said 
the  Wakawirondo,  and  forthwith  the  newcomers  were  led  by 
my  Somalis  in  front  of  my  chair. 

"  Who  are  you  ?  "  I  enquired. 

""W'e  are  Wangwana  from  the  coast,  and  these  are  the  sons 
and  the  people  of  the  Sultan  Sakwa,  of  Kawirondo.  The  Sultan 
sends  us  to  bid  you  welcome  to  his  country." 

"What  white  men  are  there  in  Kawirondo,  and  what  do 
you  know  about  them  P  " 

' "  They  are  Englishmen— Mr.  Jackson,  Mr.  Martin,  and  two 
more." 

"  How  long  have  they  been  here  ?  " 

"  For  many  months  ;  but  a  short  time  ago  they  went  to 
Elgumi,  and  farther  up,  to  shoot  elephants." 

"  What  are  they  doing  here  ?  " 

"  They  have  made  a  station  in  Kwa  Sundu,  and  are  buying 
ivory.  Messengers  have  come  to  them,  too,  from  Uganda,  but 
in  Uganda  there  is  war,  and  no  one  can  go  there.  The  Arabs 
have  driven  away  Muanga,  and  killed  all  the  Christians.  The 
Englishmen  do  not  like  to  go  into  this  country." 

"  Are  they  friends  with  your  Sultan  ?  " 

"  Sakwa,  our  Sultan,  is  great  and  rich.  He  does  not  love 
the  people  who  come  here  to  buy  ivory  and  shoot  ^^j^^p^,.. 
game.     Sakwa  loves  the  thorough  people  who  under-  tant  oon- 

^  •       1  1       i         xi_     verBation. 

stand  war.     We  know  that  you.  Sir,  have  beaten  the 
Massais,  and  therefore  Sakwa  will  be  your  friend.     He  sends  us 
to  announce  this  to  you,  and  invites  you  to  march  to-morrow 


302  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

to  his  residence  at  Kwa  Sakwa,  to  make  a  station  there  ;  Sakwa 
will  not  have  the  English,  he  loves  the  Germans.  But  whither 
are  you  journeying  ?  " 

"I  am  journeying  into  the  land  of  the  Turki,  to  Emin 
Pasha.     Have  you  any  tidings  of  him  ?  " 

"  The  Turki  are  said  to  he  yonder  "  (pointing  to  the  north), 
"hut  they  are  very  far  away.  We  have  no  tidings  of  them. 
Emin  Pasha  we  do  not  know." 

"  Do  you  know  the  way  to  Unjoro  P  " 

"  Unjoro  is  very  far  off;  we  do  not  know  the  way  there. 
Six  years  ago  a  white  man  came  here  ;  he  wanted  to  go  to 
Uganda,  hut  the  Waganda  killed  all  his  people.  The  Waganda 
are  very  bad,  and  none  of  us  go  out  in  that  direction." 

"  Send  messengers  back  to  your  Sultan,  and  tell  him  I  shall 
come  to  him  to-morrow ;  that  I  want  to  go  to  Uganda,  and 
come  as  a  friend.  Everything  else  I  will  talk  over  with  him 
personally  to-morrow." 

So  now  we  had  the  explanation  concerning  our  white  men  in 
Kawirondo  ;  and,  in  truth,  it  was  the  nascitur  ridiculus  mus. 
We  had  come  across  the  Jackson  Emin  Pasha  Expedition,  'and 
probably  the  people  of  Kabaras  had  heard  the  name  of 
"  Stanley,"  with  whom  this  expedition  was  to  co-operate, 
mentioned  in  it. 

The  following  days  would  bring  us  further  explanations,  and 
therefore  for  to-day  we  entirely  refrained  from  conjecture. 

Next  morning  we  proceeded  in  a  south-west  direction  over 
some  high  ranges.  Everywhere  we  saw  enormous  herds  of 
The sakwa's cattle.  "All  those  belong  to  the  Sakwa,"  said  the 
possessions,  glides.  The  Massais  who  tended  the  cattle  hurried  up 
to  greet  us  respectfully,  and  after  we  had  crossed  an  affluent  of 
the  Nsoia,  all  at  once  the  great  red  walls  and  the  lofty  gates 
of  Kwa  Sakwa  rose  before  us,  not  like  a  village,  but  like  a 
town. 

A  dense  crowd  came  streaming  out  of  the  gate  towards  us, 
and  I  was  immediately  informed  that  the  Sultan  himself,  with 
his  brothers,  was  coming  to  meet  us,  to  give  us  suitable  greet- 
ing.    But  as  I  did  not  sufficiently  know  the  intentions  of  these 


ARRIVAL   AT  K^YA   SAKWA.  303 

people,  I  gave  orders  to  have  the  firearms  ready  for  action,  for 
whatever  might  happen. 

Thus  in  close  order  we  marched  towards  the  north-east 
gate  of  the  town.  About  three  hundred  j'ards  to  the  right,  by 
the  wayside,  was  a  gigantic  tree,  and  under  this  tree  Sakwa  sat 
with  his  people.  A  great  bronze  chain  hung  round  his  neck, 
and  his  arms  were  profusely  ornamented  with  artistic  copper 
rings.  He  carried  a  lance  in  his  right  hand,  and  a  shirt  of  a 
cotton  fabric  covered  his  body.  When  I  marched  towards  him, 
he  rose  from  his  seat,  with  all  his  following,  and  strode  towards 
me  with  his  hand  extended.  Hand  in  hand  we  then  moved 
with  ceremonious  gravity  towards  the  entrance  gate  of  Kwa 
Sakwa.  A  wide  ditch  surrounds  the  walls  of  the  place,  over 
which  a  dam  leads  to  the  gate.  On  entering  the  en-  The  town 
closure,  the  stranger  first  comes  upon  a  great  open  "*  sakwa. 
space,  surrounded  by  the  houses  of  the  war  garrison  of  the 
place.  From  thence  he  comes  to  a  second  great  space,  which 
is  surrounded,  in  a  wide  circle,  by  the  many  houses  of  the 
sultan.  All  these  houses  are  full  of  hundreds  of  women,  in 
whose  midst  he  himself  dwells.  The  king  pointed  out  to  me 
that  this  place  belonged  to  me.  I  might  either  dwell  in  his 
houses,  or  have  my  tents  set  up.  At  the  same  time  he  pointed 
to  two  fat  oxen,  that  were  to  be  my  food  for  to-day,  and  every 
morning,  so  long  as  I  stayed  there,  two  other  oxen  would  be 
ready  for  us.  Then  brown  beer  was  brought  for  us  in  great 
jugs,  and  to  this  were  added  honey,  eggs,  poultry,  and  milk, 
as  well  as  golden  yellow  bananas.  Soon  houses  had  been 
prepared  for  my  people ;  the  tents  were  set  up,  and  at  the  hour 
of  noon  the  black,  white,  and  red  flag  waved  for  the  first  time 
in  the  midst  of  Kwa  Sakwa. 

Scarcely  had  I  established  myself  comfortably  in  my  tent, 
and  bathed  and  shaved,  as  I  was  accustomed  to  do  every  day 
so  soon  as  the  march  was  ended,  when  a  sudden  firing  portera 
of  guns  from  the  southern  gate  announced  a  new  visit,  ^l^^ll^ 
Porters  belonging  to  the  English  expedition  came  to  expedition, 
welcome  us,  and  from  them  I  received  more  definite  informa- 
tion concerning  its  objects,  and  especially  about  Ali  Somal, 


304  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

who  was,  they  told  me,  chief  of  the  station,  in  the  absence  of 
the  four  white  men.  They  said  that  the  expedition  had  a 
strength  of  five  hundred  porters,  and  was  armed  with  Reming- 
tons, and  well  supplied  with  ammunition.  They  had  more 
than  fifty  loads  of  cartridges  still  in  stock. 

In  the  afternoon  Ali  Somal  came  over  himself  from  Kwa 
Sundu  to  greet  us — a  young  Somali,  of  intelligent  appearance, 
and  almost  gentlemanlike  bearing,  in  a  completely  European 
garb,  who  very  courteously  bad  us  welcome,  and  immediately 
Arrival  of  Came  out  with  an  invitation  that  we  should  shift  our 
Ali  Somal.  quarters,  as  soon  as  possible,  to  his  place  in  the  Enghsh 
station.  He  said,  "Mr.  Jackson  would  be  much  offended  with 
me  if  I  allowed  you  to  live  herewith  the  Sakwa.  He  will  regret 
very  much  that  he  is  absent  just  now  ;  but  at  all  events  you 
must  wait  until  he  returns." 

"  But  where  has  Mr.  Jackson  gone  ?  Has  he  perhaps 
marched  through  Elgumi  to  Emin  Pasha  P " 

"By  no  means.  If  he  had  gone  to  Emin  Pasha  he 
would  certainly  have  taken  me  with  him.  No,  he  is  hunting. 
He  has  been  hunting  for  some  time — several  weeks — yonder 
on  the  Elgon,  and  has  killed  several  elephants,  and  has 
probably  now  marched  further  to  the  northward  for  the  same 
purpose." 

"But  if  he  only  wants  to  hunt,  why  does  he  take  four 
hundred  and  fifty  men,  and  all  the  white  men,  to  the 
northward  with  him  ?  Has  he  only  come  into  this  region 
to  hunt.P" 

"Not  so.  We  were  commissioned  to  put  ourselves  in 
communication  with  Stanley  from  this  place,  to  support  his 
expedition  in  the  Nile  countries.  But  Stanley  has  marched 
back,  by  the  western  side  of  Lake  Victoria,  to  the  coast,  and 
so  we  could  not  help  him." 

"  Stanley  has  marched  off,  by  the  western  side  of  Lake 
Victoria  ?  But  then  he  has  gone  back  for  the  second  time  to 
Emin  Pasha;  and  has  Emin  Pasha  perhaps  even  gone  away 
with  him.P" 

"No,   Emin  Pasha  has  remained  behind  in   his  country. 


INFORMATION  AND   EXPLANATION.  305 

With   Stanley   another    white  '  man    went    southward.      Emin 
Pasha  has  been  at  war  with  the  Wangoro,  who  have  . 

^  Accounts  of 

beaten  his  people,  and    driven  him  up  towards   the  Emm 
north.      He   is   quite   alone    now   in   the    Equatorial 
Province,  and  to  reach  him  from  here  is  impossible." 

"  How  do  you  know  that  ?  " 

"Mr.  Jackson  would  have  been  uncommonly  glad  to  march 
to  Emin  Pasha,  or  at  all  events  to  Uganda ;  but  he  might  not 
do  this,  as  all  the  tribes  to  the  west  of  us  are  hostile,  and  we 
should  simply  have  gone  to  our  death  if  we  had  marched 
thither.  The  Wangoro  will  have  nothing  to  do  with  the  whites, 
and  the  Arabs  rule  in  Uganda.  The  Waganda  kill  every  white 
man  who  comes  into  the  country,  and  an  expedition  that 
advances  into  these  regions  is  lost  from  the  beginning." 

"  Have  you  had  news  from  Uganda  ?  " 

"  Yes,  repeatedly.  The  people  of  the  last  Waganda  depu- 
tation are  at  present  still  in  my  camp,  and  you  can  question 
them  yourself.  The  Christians  of  Uganda  have  already  sent  to 
us  several  times,  asking  us  to  bring  help  to  them,  and  then 
they  would  accept  the  English  flag  ;  but  Mr.  Jackson  has  always 
declined  this,  saying  he  was  too  weak  for  it.  Wait  for  Mr. 
Jackson  ;  he  will  relate  all  this  to  you  more  clearly  himself. 
In  fourteen  days  he  must  be  back." 

"  I  cannot  wait  here  for  fourteen  days,  for  in  a  few  days  I 
shall  march  away  from  here  to  the  west." 

"  You  intend  to  march  from  here  to  the  west  ?  " 

"  Most  certainly.  If  Emin  Pasha  is  alone  in  his  province 
now,  he  has  the  more  need  of  help." 

"  But  to  go  to  the  west  is  quite  impossible.  You  will  be 
leading  yourself  and  all  your  people  to  death.  Emin  Pasha  has 
been  beaten,  and  is  no  longer  what  he  was." 

"If  Emin  Pasha  has  been  beaten,  he  needs  help  all  the 
more.  Moreover,  how  do  you  know  for  certain  that  an  advance 
to  the  west  is  impracticable  ? 

"We  have  good  intelligence  from  every  quarter.  I  can 
show  you  the  letters  from  Uganda  itself,  if  you  care  to  see  them. 
You  will  then  see  it  all  yourself,  and  give  up  the  plan  of  leading 

20 


306  XEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

all  your  people  to  destruction.  I  have  an  especial  interest 
in  this,  as  there  are  twelve  brothers  of  my  own  in  your  expedi- 
tion, whose  lives  I  would  wish  to  save.  Read  the  letters  from 
Uganda  yourself  to-morrow,  and  you  will  say  I  am  right." 

"  Very  good.  Now  go  to  the  Somalis,  who  will  give  you 
news  from  your  country.  So  long  as  you  remain  with  me  in 
Kwa  Sakwa  you  are  my  guest." 

"What  tidings  were  these  that  I  received  here  ?  The  great 
English  Emin  Pasha  Expedition  had  been  lying  for  months  past 
Bewilder-  on  the  borders  of  the  Nile  countries,  without  venturing 
concerSng  ^m  advauce  in  this  direction.  Emin  Pasha  beaten  by 
^™^°-  the  Wangoro,  and  remaining  behind,  solitary  at  his  post, 
while  his  white  companion  (evidently  Casati)  had  gone  away 
with  Stanley  to  the  coast !  Uganda  in  the  hands  of  the  Arabs, 
and  Kaba-Rega,  whom,  from  Emin's  description,  I  knew  to  be 
his  faithful  friend,  now  the  enemy  of  the  Europeans  and  of 
Emin  himself!  It  will  be  understood  that  I  was  excited  to  the 
utmost  degree  by  these  tidings,  whose  authenticity  we  had  no 
reason  to  doubt.  But  out  of  the  chaos  of  my  feelings  the  soli- 
tary figure  of  Emin  Pasha  rose  again  and  again,  amid  a  world 
of  hostile  powers,  forsaken  by  all,  assailed  by  the  Mahdi  in  the 
north  and  the  Wangoro  in  the  south,  with  nothing  left  before 
his  eyes  but  ruin,  and,  as  it  appeared  to  us,  resolved  to  en- 
counter it.  How  could  we  for  a  moment  waver  in  our  deter- 
mination, now  more  than  ever,  to  hasten  to  him,  either  to  give 
him  help,  or,  if  it  must  be,  to  fall  with  him  ? 

But  let  us  first  wait  to  see  what  the  next  day  will  bring  in 
the  way  of  further  explanations.  It  brought,  in  the  first  place, 
a  peculiar  request  on  the  part  of  the  Sultan  Sakwa.  Early  in 
the  morning  he  appeared  in  front  of  my  tent,  to  make  me  the 
following  proposal : — 

"  Two  hours  to  the  north  of  this  place,"  said  he,  "  dwells 
the  robber  tribe  of  the  Mangati,  in  a  land  which  we  call  Ngoro. 
These  people  are  continually  making  inroads  into  my  territory, 
threatening  my  herds,  and  burning  down  my  villages.  They 
have  laid  waste  the  whole  west,  from  the  Nsoia  River.  I  have 
begged  the  English  repeatedly  to  beat  back  these  Mangati,  and 


PROPOSAL   TO  FIGHT  THE  JfANGATI.  307 

offered,  if  they  would  do  this,  to  accept  their  flag  for  Kawirondo. 
But  the  English  are  people  of  fear ;  they  have  shut  themselves 
up  in  their  stations,  and  are  afraid  of  the  strife  with  the  Man- 
gati.  Now  you  Germans  are  come,  you  who  have  proposal  of 
beaten  the  Massais  themselves,  I  will  give  you  all  my  ^'^^  ^""*^- 
Askaris.  You  shall  then  beat  the  Mangati,  and  I  will  accept 
your  flag,  and  give  you  half  of  the  cattle  that  shall  be  taken 
from  the  Mangati," 

"  But  what  have  I  to  do  with  the  Mangati  ?  I  have  no 
thought  of  fighting  with  the  Mangati.  We  have  been  obliged 
to  fight  with  the  Massais  because  they  attacked  us  first.  We 
Germans,  in  fact,  only  fight  when  we  are  attacked,  or  when 
people  are  attacked  who  are  under  our  protection." 

"  Well,  we  will  come  under  your  protection.  You  shall  be 
our  lord  if  you  beat  the  Mangati  for  us." 

"  Even  if  I  wished  to  do  you  that  favour,  I  could  not  at  the 
present  moment.  I  must  march  to  the  west,  to  a  great  white 
man  who  lives  there.  If  I  shoot  away  my  cartridges  here,  how 
am  I  to  get  to  my  friend  on  the  Nile  ?  " 

"  You  cannot  get  to  the  Nile,  anyway.  There  dwell  the 
Waganda,  who  are  very  bad,  and  kill  every  one  who  comes  to 
them.  A  little  while  ago  a  white  man  was  among  us  here,  who 
also  wanted  to  march  into  those  lands.  The  Waganda  killed 
him  and  all  his  people." 

"  But  are  the  Wasoga  as  bad,  too  ?  If  I  march  on  this 
side  of  the  Nile,  through  Usoga,  and  afterwards  on  this  side 
of  the  river  past  Unjoro,  I  have  no  occasion  to  fear  the 
Waganda." 

"  The  Wasoga  and  the  Waganda  are  just  the  same,"  said  he. 
"The  Wasoga  are  slaves  of  the  Mfalme  (king)  of  Uganda,  and 
must  do  everything  he  tells  them." 

"  But  by  the  time  the  news  of  our  marching  through  arrives 
at  Uganda  we  shall  have  long  passed  Usoga ;  and  if  the 
Wasoga  hinder  us  in  doing  so,  we  will  beat  them  just  as  we 
have  beaten  the  Massais." 

"  In  Usoga  there  are  many  Waganda,  and  they  have  there 
very  many  guns.     All  the  tribes  behind  you  you  could  beat. 


308  NEW  LIGHT  O.V  DARK  AFRICA. 

but  if  you  attempt  to  make  war  on  the  Waganda  and  the 
Report  on  Wasoga,  j'ou  Will  perlsh.  Beat  the  Mangati  for  us, 
Indwa^'^^and  accept  our  hospitality.  Meanwhile,  we  will  send 
ganda.  tidings  to  the  white  man.  If  he  is  as  great  as  you  say, 
he  will  send  you  soldiers,  so  that  you  may  come  safely  to  him. 
We  know  very  well  that  yonder,  towards  the  sinking  sun,  the 
Turki  dwell,  and  that  they  have  many  guns.  If  their  sultan  is 
a  white  man,  wait  here  for  news  from  him,  and  then  you  will 
get  to  him  safely." 

"  I  have  now  understood  all  your  words.  Go  now,  and  leave 
me  alone,  that  I  may  refer  it  to  my  God.  This  afternoon  I  will 
give  you  my  answer." 

The  alluring  part  of  Sakwa's  offer  was  that  by  accepting  it 
I  should  be  sure  of  being  strongly  backed  from  Kawirondo.  If 
we  beat  the  Mangati,  our  credit  towards  the  west  would  also  be 
considerably  increased ;  and  this,  again,  might  possibly  be 
decisive  in  the  matter  of  our  march  to  Usoga.  On  the  other 
hand,  it  was  not  in  accordance  with  my  principles  to  attack, 
under  the  German  flag,  a  tribe  that  had  not  first  committed 
acts  of  hostility  towards  us.  Accordingly,  I  resolved 
acceptance  that  while  I  would  give    support    to    the    Sultan  in 

lance.  p^^^^j^g  (Jq^^  ^he  plundering  tribe  in  the  south,  I 
would  not  allow  the  German  flag,  or  any  one  of  us  white  men, 
to  have  a  part  in  the  affair. 

I  granted  him,  for  the  next  morning,  thirty -five  men,  under 
the  leadership  of  Hussein,  with  the  stipulation  that,  on  his  side, 
he  should  also  put  under  Hussein's  command  all  his  Askaris, 
his  Massais,  and  his  Bantu,  and  should  give  them  an  oppor- 
tunity of  pushing  forward  to  the  Mangati  that  very  night,  that 
they  might  attack  their  foes,  and  beat  them  next  morning  before 
sunrise. 

Sakwa  acquiesced  in  everything ;  but,  as  the  negroes  do,  he 
only  half  fulfilled  his  promises.  Instead  of  Hussein's  being 
Sakwa's  Conducted  to  meet  the  enemy  between  four  and  five 
politeness,  o'clock,  as  I  had  demanded,  it  was  between  seven  and 
eight  before  they  reached  Ngoro,  which  was  not  four,  but 
between  six  and  eight  miles  distant. 


DEFEAT  OF  THE  HANG  ATI.  309 

The  Mangati  had  taken  the  alarm,  had  driven  their  herds 
to  the  rear,  and  were  awaiting  my  people  in  order  of  battle. 
A  very  obstinate  and  even  murderous  combat  ensued, 

1  •    1      TT  ■  •         n  ^      ,  The  best 

m   which   Hussem   committed   a   fault,   by   not   fol-  tactics  in 
lowing   the   tactics  we   had  always   put   in  practice,  *^'''"'^- 
of  advancing   with   a    "  Hurrah !  "   after    a   few   volleys,  but 
still  cautiously,  and  keeping  distance,  and  thus  routing  the 
foe. 

The  whole  morning  we  heard  the  lively  rattle  of  the  per- 
cussion guns,  and  the  sharper  ring  of  the  long  barrels ;  and  we 
also  saw  the  flames  rising  from  some  villages  in  the  south. 

Towards    three    o'clock    in   the    afternoon    the    soldiers  of 
Sakwa  were  the  first  to  come  marching  back  in  great  bodies, 
each  some  hundreds  strong,  singing  a  harsh  war-song,  with  a 
rhythmic  measure,  something  like  the  following,  "  Hu,  hu,  hu, 
hu,  hu  !  hu,  hu,  hu,  hu,  hu  !  "  and  then  my  people  came  march- 
ing home,  intoning  their  own  war-song.     The  Mangati    . 
had  indeed  been  thoroughly  beaten,  had  lost  two  villages  return  of 
and  fifty-six  men ;  but  Hussein  had  not  succeeded  in 
getting  possession  of  herds  of  cattle,  and  the  expedition's  store 
of  cartridges,  already  greatly  lessened  before  this  combat,  had 
by  it  been  reduced  to  the  utmost.     I   had  now  only  forty  to 
fifty  cartridges  per  man  for  the  repeating  rifles,  and,  into  the 
bargain,  we  had  several  men  wounded.     On  the  other  hand,  all 
Kawirondo  was  certainly  full  of  admiration  of  our  little  troop, 
and  this  was  speedily  communicated  towards  the  west  as  far 
as  Uganda.     That  same  evening,   Sakwa  brought  oxen  to  be 
slaughtered  for  my  people,  and  on  the  following  afternoon  hoisted 
the  great  black,  white,  and  red  flag,  on  a  hill  in  his  capital,  on 
a  flagstaff"  fifty  feet  high.     His  wives  performed  dances  in  honour 
of  us. 

But,  after  all,  what  did  this  signify,  compared  to  the  fact 
that  we  had  so  few  cartridges  left,  and  with  this  reduced  strength 
were  now  to  march  away  into  the  dangerous  territory  of  the 
Nile  ? 

The  treaty  which  I  concluded  with  Sakwa  on  February  1st 
was  in  the  following  words  : — 


310  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

"  Sultan  Sakwa,  of  Kawirondo,  begs  Dr.  Carl  Peters  for 
his  flag.  He  acknowledges  Dr.  Peters  unreservedly  as  his 
lord. 

"Dr.  Carl  Peters  promises  to  protect  Sultan  Sakwa  according 
to  his  power,  and  to  help  him  in  the  conquest  of  the 
with  Sultan  whole  of  Kawiroudo,  so  far  as  is  consonant  with  Dr. 
Peters's  other  plans. 

"  Sultan  Sakwa  solemnly  hoists  the  German  flag  to-day  in 
his  capital.  Both  parties  complete  this  treaty  by  the  signatures 
of  witnesses. 

"  Dk.  Carl  Peters. 

"  Mark  of  the  Sultan  of  Witu. 


Witnesses 


Son  of  the  Sviltan  Lutonia,  Wasua. 
Brother  of  the  Sultan,  Kueju. 
Son  of  the  Sultan,  Sanialute. 
Htissein  Fara,  leader  of  the  Somali  ;  and 
"  Musa,  headman  of  the  porters." 


On  the  basis  of  this  treaty,  I  left  with  the  Sultan  the  follow- 
ing letter  for  the  English : — 

"  Sultan  Sakwa  has  asked  me  for  my  flag,  and  I  have 
granted  his  request,  that  I  may  have  a  support  behind  me  for 
my  further  advance  to  Emin  Pasha.  Sultan  Sakwa  has  accorded 
to  me  that  he  will  look  on  his  place  as  my  property,  for  the 
purposes  of  my  expedition,  and  for  any  other  plans 
plaining  I  may  have  in  this  part  of  Africa.  I  accordingly 
^  "^^^  ^'  declare  the  land  of  Kawirondo  to  be  my  possession, 
until  I  may  dispose  of  it  otherwise  with  the  concurrence  of 
Sultan  Sakwa.  Accordingly  I  shall  deal  with  any  infringe- 
ment of  the  rights  of  Sultan  Sakwa  as  with  an  infringement 
of  my  own  rights. 

(Signed)    "  Dr.  Carl  Peters." 

Next  morning,  in  spite    of  the  importunate  entreaties  of 
Sakwa  that  I  would  stay  longer,  I  marched  away,  with  beat  of 


FORWARn    TO    THE  SOUTH. 


311 


drum,  through  a  well-cultivated  country,  towards  the  south, 
to  set  up  my  camp  on  that  day  in  the  English  station  of 
Kwa  Sundu.     Here  I  should  receive  definite  intbrma- 

<_•  •  ii  ,  /.     ,  .  .         ,  Advance  to 

tion  concernmg  the  state  ot  thmgs  m  the  west,  and  Kwa 
could    make    up    my    mind    accordingly,    whether    I  ^'""'"• 
might    risk    the    march    through    Uganda,    or    whether  I    had 
the  choice  of  passing  round  that  country  and  pushing  forward 
direct  upon  Unjoro. 


A/JVANCE      rpox      rxjoiio 
AND  DEVIATION         TO 

UGANDA,    TO    ASSIST    THE 
CHPJSTIAN  PARTY. 


For,   with  the 

presume  , 

Himself  to  measure.'' 


there  sbah  no  man 


Goethe. 


WE    were    very    soou    coni- 
I'ortablv    established    iu 


The   young  sultan  received  us  with  a 


Ibrtably  est 
the  English  station. 
present  of  honour  of  three  oxen  for  slaughtering,  though  he 
certainly  added  to  the  gift  the  cool  retiuest :  We  had  beaten  the 
Mangati  in  the  vicinity  of  Kwa  Sakwa,  and  therefore  he  begged 
„.  ., .       that    to-morrow  we   would  beat   the   Manszati  in  the 

Visit  from        ...  _  ~     . 

the  Sultan  viciuity   of  Kwa  Suudu.      There    came,    besides,  the 

and  chiefs,      i  •    ,.    '   j-.      ,        ^  r  .       .  .  « 

chieis  (jt  the  iViassais  m  Kawu'oudo,  with  presents  oi 
honour,  and  the  request  to  be  allowed  to  enter  into  the  position 
of  a  treaty,  and  into  iriendly  relations  with  me.  They  declared 
they  were  all  oi'  them  ready  to  acknowledge  me  as  their  lord 
antl  chief    I  put  them  all  oft  till  my  return  fr(jm  tlie  Equatorial 


I   DISTURBANCES  IN  UGANDA.  313 

Province.     So  soon,  I  said,  as  I  had  reached  my  German  brother 
there,  I  would  come  back  with  an  increased  force,  and  then  we 
would  hold  introductory  councils  on  their  relation  to  my  tribe. 
From  the  written   communications  laid  before  me  by  Ali 
Soma!  I  first  obtained  the  following  authentic  intelligence  out 
of  a   despatch   from   Mr.    Mackay,    dated   Usumbiro, 
August  25th,   1889,  to  Emin  Pasha,  which  was  evi-kay'sde- 
dently  lying  here,   in  the  English  station,   to  be  for-  °^**''''' 
warded,  and  I  herewith  give  an  extract  of  the  substance  of  its 
contents : — 

"  Muanga,  the  son  and  successor  of  Mtesas,  King  of  Uganda, 
developed  more  and  more,  in  the  year  1887,  into  a  malignant 
tyrant,  until  in   September   or    October    1888,    after   he   had 
attempted  to  murder  his  guards,  most  of  whom  were 
either  Christians  or  Mahometans,  these  guards  suddenly  son  of 
mutinied,  and  drove  him  from  the  throne.     The  de- 
throned king  escaped  in  a  canoe  to  the   south  side  of  Lake 
Victoria. 

"  A  brother  of  Muanga's,  named  Kiwewa,  was  invested  with 
his  power,  and,  in  the  first  instance,  proclaimed  freedom  for  all 
beliefs  ;  but  soon  afterwards  he  turned  against  the  Christians, 
and,  after  a  slaughter  among  them,  drove  them  all  away.  They 
took  refuge  in  Buragalla  (Usagara),  which  is  also  The  rule  of 
called  Ancore,  whose  king,  Antari,  received  them  as  '^'"^^^■ 
colonists.  (See  on  this  subject  Stanley's  '  In  Darkest  Africa,' 
vol.  ii.,  ch.  32,  pp.  333-37).  Only  a  few  escaped  in  canoes 
to  the  south  side  of  the  lake,  and  were  received,  some  by  the 
Romish  priests  in  Ukumbi,  and  some  by  the  Englishmen  in 
Usumbiro.  Mr.  Gordon  and  Mr.  Walker,  as  well  as  the  Romish 
missionaries  in  Uganda,  were  kept  prisoners  for  a  week,  and 
both  the  mission  stations  were  plundered  and  destroyed,  and 
thereupon  all  missionaries  were  allowed  to  leave  Uganda  in  the 
Christian  boat.  Naturally,  the  Arabs  were  the  chief  instigators 
and  the  principal  agents  in  the  overthrowing  of  the  Christian 
missions ;  but  they  themselves  did  not  long  enjoy  the  favour  of 
Kiwewa.     He  found  them  too  zealous  in  their  desire  to  circum- 


314  ysW  LIGHT   ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

cise  him,  and  one  day  he  caused  all  their  chief  men,  declared 
Mahometans,  to  be  arrested  in  Burgah,  and  with  his  own  hand 
killed  three  of  their  leaders.  In  some  way  or  another  the  others, 
however,  got  back  their  freedom  immediately  afterwards,  and 
now  Kiwewa  had  to  fly  for  his  life. 

"  Then  another  brother,  named  Karema   for  Kalema),  was 

chosen  king,  and  his  troops  succeeded  in  annihilating  the  army 

assembled  by  Kiwewa.     The  latter  fell  into  the  hands 

Karema  *' 

chosen  of  Karema,  and  was  chained  up,  and  killed.  Muanga  at 
first  took  refuge  with  the  Arabs  of  Nuya,  but  after- 
wards left  them,  disgusted  at  the  bad  treatment  he  had  received, 
and  betook  himself  to  the  French  in  Ukumbi,  where  he  resided 
until  April  1888.  Meanwhile  Mr.  Stokes,  formerly  a  member 
of  the  English  expedition,  now  a  trader,  arrived  from  the  coast 
with  a  boat  of  his  own.  Muanga  pressed  him  to  take  him  back  to 
Uganda,  and  to  make  an  attempt  to  regain  his  lost  throne. 
The  boat  was  landed  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  mouth  of  the 
RebeiUon  Kagcra,  where  Muanga  raised  the  standard  of  rebellion, 
raised  by  and  soou  gained  a  great  following,  especially  among 
the  brotherhood  of  the  banished  Christians  in  Busagala 
or  Ankora.  Karema  sent  a  strong  army  to  meet  Muanga,  and 
destroyed  his  warlike  force. 

"Muanga  himself  escaped  to  the  Sesse  Islands,  where  he  was 
acknowledged  by  the  islanders.  He  once  more  found  himself  at 
the  head  of  a  not  inconsiderable  force,  with  all  the  canoes  of 
Muanga  at  ^^^  ^^^^-  ^^^^^  these  he  advanced  to  Murchison  Bay, 
Mandf^  and  disembarked  on  a  little  island  opposite  Mun- 
yonyo,  formerly  th^  residence  of  a  king.  It  was  called 
Bulingogwe. 

"  Karema  sent  out  an  army  to  prevent  Muanga  from  landing, 
under  the  leadership  of  an  Arab  named  Hamis  Belul ;  but  this 
force  soon  retired.  Muanga's  troops  landed,  and  burnt  Mun- 
yonyo.  A  battle  also  took  place  in  Kyagore,  in  which  Karema's 
army  was  beaten." 

So  far  the  information  extends  in  Mr.  Mackay's  writing. 
He  goes  on  to  say  that  Mr.  Stokes  soon  afterwards  returned  to 


:]rrANGA's  power  and  position.  315 

Ukumbi,  and  now,  namely,  in  August  1889,  had  the  intention 
to  return  with  a  new  supply  of  weapons  and  ammunition  to 
Muanga's  assistance.  Muanga  had  sent  an  invitation  Mr.  stokes's 
to  the  French  and  the  English  to  come  and  establish  e''t«'^P"'«- 
themselves  in  the  Sesse  Islands.  A  few  Frenchmen  had  already 
started,  and  Mr.  Gordon  and  Mr.  Walker  were  going  off  in 
canoes  to  Sesse  next  day. 

Mr.  Mackay  adds  his  own  reflections:  "Of  course  the 
missionaries  cannot  assist  Muanga  in  the  fight,  but  their 
presence  is  able  to  give  prestige  to  his  name,  while  it  may  also 
give  courage  to  their  respective  communities,  who  at  this 
time  contribute  almost  the  sole  force  of  Muanga.  Protestants 
and  Catholics  together,  they  number  about  fifteen  hundred  men, 
but  according  to  their   own  estimate,  two   thousand.  „  .  . 

.  Opinion 

They  have,  I  believe,  one  thousand  guns  in  all,  but  very  of  Mr. 
little  powder.  Besides  these,  Muanga  has  several 
thousands  of  heathen  adherents,  armed  with  spear  and  shield, 
while  Karema  has  more  than  two  thousand  guns,  and  all  the 
Arabs  and  their  slaves  at  his  back.  But  Karema  is,  I  believe  " 
(which  was  a  mistake  of  Mackay 's),  "  not  inclined  to  Islam,  and 
only  uses  that  party  as  his  chief  means  of  defence.  A  short 
time  ago  he  murdered  all  the  princes  and  princesses  on  whom  he 
could  lay  his  hands,  for  fear  one  or  other  of  them  should  come 
forward  as  a  rival  for  the  throne. 

"  This  has  not  increased  his  popularity,  and  I  hear  that 
several  of  his  leading  adherents  are  rebellious ;  but  they  are 
afraid  to  attach  themselves  to  Muanga,  as  he  is  bitter  against 
all  who  have  made  profession  of  Mahometanism.  My  counsel 
to  Muanga  is,  for  the  present,  to  remain  quietly  in  position  of 
possession  of  the  Sesse  Islands,  and  with  the  help  of  ^"^'^sa. 
the  numerous  canoes  he  possesses  (while  Karema  has  none)  to 
blockade  the  coast  of  Uganda,  (Buganda  in  the  Kiganda 
language),  and  to  hinder  the  Arabs  from  obtaining  reinforce- 
ments. In  this  way  he  will  gradually  gain  many  adherents. 
In  fact,  most  of  his  former  chiefs,  offended  by  Karema,  have 
already  attached  themselves  to  him,  though  certainly  with  only 
a  few  followers. 


31(i  NEW  LIGHT   0^f  DARK  AFRICA. 

"  When  Mr.  Stokes  left  Uganda  the  news  had  reached 
there  of  the  arrival  of  a  few  white  men  in  the  vicinity  of 
Wachores  land.  This,  we  believed,  must  be  the  advanced  guard 
Ex  ected  °^  ^^^  British  East  African  Expedition,  on  its  way  to 
British  Wadelai  with  provisions  and  ammunition  for  you 
African  (Emiu),  for  whose  assistance  Muanga  has  sent,  to  put 
Expedition,  ^.^^^j^.^  alliance  with  them  ;  but  we  have  no  further 
news  of  them."  (This  information  evidently  had  reference  to  the 
English  expedition  in  Kawirondo,  in  whose  own  camp  we  were 
tarrying  just  then.) 

Mr.  Mackay  now  continues  with  a  someAvhat  cool  proposal 
to  Emin  Pasha,  to  whom  it  appeared  no  less  quaint  when  I 
afterwards  communicated  it  to  him  at  Mpuapua,  than  it  did  to 
me  when  I  first  read  it. 

"  Now  is  the  time  to  strike  a  strong  blow  for  the  right  to 

win  Uganda.     For  if  they  (Jackson  and  his  companions)  assist 

,  Muanga  in  pulling  down  Karema  and  his  Arabs,  and 

Chances  of        .        °  ^         .    " 

an  attempt  bring  Muauga  himself  back  to  the  throne,  the  land  will 
gan  a.  g^f^gj-^g^j-jjg  ]^q  virtually  in  their  hands,  and  they  will 
possess  the  key  to  all  the  western  environs  of  Lake  Victoria. 
But,  I  fear,  the  British  East  Africa  Company  has  for  soldiers 
Zanzibar  porters,  on  whom  little  reliance  can  be  placed." 

Now  comes  the  point. 

"You  (Emin  Pasha)  have  the  army,  and  only  by  the 
assistance  of  one  or  two  regiments  of  your  troops,  under  suitable 
leaders,  does  it  become  possible  to  overthrow  Karema's  fanatical 
army,  and  to  restore  the  ex-king  Muanga  to  power,  not,  as  before, 
as  an  independent  sovereign,  but  as  an  agent  of  the  British  East 
Africa  Company."  (Certainly  exceedingly  attractive  for  Emin 
,  ^  Pasha.     Fancy  a  German  missionary  making  such  a 

Proposal  to  •'  j  n 

Emin  proposal  to  an  Englishman  of  birth,  to  win  a  kingdom 
for  a  German  Colonial  Company  ! )  "  His  deposition  and 
banishment  appear  to  have  taught  him  a  lesson,  and  I  at  least 
have  some  hope  that  if  he  once  again  gets  into  power,  he  will  rule 
more  wisely  than  he  has  done.     Nevertheless,  according  to  my 


MR.    .VACKAY'S  PROPOSAL   TO  E.VIX.  317 

conviction,  it  is  especial!)-  desirable  that  it  should  not  be  left  to 
him  to  rely  upon  his  own  sources  of  help,  but  that  he  should 
become  dependent  upon  outsiders  for  his  kingdom ;  that  is  to 
say,  upon  yourself  aud  the  British  East  Africa  Company.  In 
this  way  his  future  good  behaviour  will  be  secured. 

"  I  have  asked  Messrs.  Walker  and  Gordon  to  write  to  you 
on  your  arrival  in  Sesse,  and  accurately  to  explain  the  situation 
of  affairs  as  they  found  it,     I  have  been  requested,  theough 

THE  CoNSUL-GeNBRAL  IN  ZANZIBAR,  AS  WELL  AS  THROUGH  Decided 
THE  AGENTS  OF  THE  COMPANY  (MeSSRS.  SmITH,  MACKENZIE  mUsionlry 
AND  Co.,  AND  BY  Mr.  MaCKENNON  HIMSELF ),  TO  PROMOTE  "^*^'^^^^*""®- 
THE  INTERESTS   OF   THE  COMPANY  SO  FAR  AS  I  CAN."      (Surcly  this 

means  to  work  as  its  political  agent !)  "I  do  not  see  how  I  can 
do  this  better,  from  m)^  standpoint,  than  by  making  you  and 
the  gentlemen  at  the  head  of  the  expedition  acquainted  with  the 
exact  position  of  things  at  this  time  in  Uganda,  in  the  belief 
that  there  is  at  present  a  rare  opportunity,  which  might  never 
recur  in  our  lifetime,  not  only  to  secure  the  market  in  Uganda, 
but  also  to  acquire  the  control  over  the  whole  country.  The  fact 
that  my  '  brethren,'  as  well  as  the  French  missionaries,  are 
prepared  to  attach  themselves  to  Muanga  will,  I  am  sure,  be  to 
you  an  efficient  guarantee  that  this  side  must  be  preferred. 
Karema  is  fanatical,  and  so  long  as  he  is  in  power  he  will  ever 
be  the  enemy  of  all  those  who,  like  ourselves  and  the  British 
East  Africa  Company,  have  at  heart  the  welfare  of  the  maritime 
territory." 

This  letter  will,  in  the  first  place,  form  a  not  uninteresting 
commentary    on    Stanley's   assertion    ("In   Darkest   Africa," 
vol.  ii.,  p.    350):    "The  Christian   converts    gave  them  (the 
missionaries)    an   excellent    character,    and    repeated  Stanley's 
much  of  the  good  advice  Mr.  IMackay  had  bestowed  on  X"^?  °^ 
them  ;  which  were  undoubted  proofs  that  though  the  sionaries. 
yoke  of  Muanga  was  exceedingly  heavy  to  them,  the  mission- 
aries had  in  this  abstained  from  meddling  in  the  politics  of  the 
country." 

I  have  given  it  here  in  its  entirety,  because  it  really  gives  a 


318  NEW  LIGHT  OX  DARK  AFRICA. 

very   clear  picture  of  the  position  of  affairs  in  Uganda,   and 
especially  of  the  English  designs  upon  these  lands. 

From  other  documents,  of  which  I  got  a  view  in  Kwa  Sundu, 
I  further  learned  that,  with  the  assistance  of  Stokes,  Muanga 
had,  in  fact,  beaten  Karema's  followers  on  October  4th,  1889, 
and  regained  possession  of  the  throne,  and  that  he  had  de- 
victoryof  spatched  two  embassies  to  the  English  expedition  in 
Muanga.  j^^wirondo,  with  the  request  to  Mr.  Jackson  to  bring 
him  assistance,  professing  himself  ready,  if  this  were  done,  not 
only  to  bestow  on  the  British  East  Africa  Company  the  mono- 
poly of  trade  in  Uganda  and  all  his  lands,  but  also  to  place 
himself  under  a  British  protectorate. 

This  correspondence  was  signed  by  Muanga  himself,  by  the 
English  missionaries,  and  also  by  Pere  Lourdel.  From  the 
series  of  letters  I  was  able  to  ascertain  that  Mr.  Jackson  had 
first  delayed  this  affair,  and  then  in  writing  declined  it  alto- 
gether. This  answer  I  did  not  see  until  later  in  Uganda,  and 
there  I  found  that,  with  his  five  hundred  Remingtons, 
Bon's  pro-  he  had  not  considered  himself  strong  enough  to  march 
upon  Uganda,  where,  according  to  all  that  he  knew, 
the  parties  were  pretty  equally  balanced,  but  preferred  to  go 
out  hunting  to  the  north,  where  he  was  at  that  time.  From 
the  last  letter  signed  by  Pere  Lourdel,  dated  on  December  1st, 
from  the  Island  of  Bulingogwe,  it  appears  that  at  the  end  of 
November  the  army  of  Muanga  must  again  have  been  beaten 
(which  had  really  happened  on  November  22nd),  that  the 
Christians  had  once  more  taken  refuge  on  the  islands  of  Lake 
Victoria,  and  from  thence  had  despatched  a  more  urgent  prayer 
than  ever  to  the  English  expedition  for  assistance.  The  docu- 
ment bearing  upon  this  I  herewith  reproduce  : — 

"BULINGUSE,  1,  XII.,  89. 

"  BiEN  GHEE  MoNsiEUE, — Nous  avous  appris  avec  peine  que 
vous  ne  pourriez  pas  venir,  au  moins  pour  le  moment,  porter 
secours  k  Muanga  et  aux  Chretiens  du  Buganda  comme  nous 
I'esperions. 

"  Le  roi  Muanga  m'avait  charge  de  vous  ^crire  en  son  nom 


FATHER  LOURDEL'S  LETTER.  319 

la  lettre  Kiswahili  que  je  vous  ai  envoyee,  lorsqu'il  n'aTait  pas 
encore  appris  la  nouvelle  de  la  defaite  de  son  armee.  Ayant  ete 
force  de  se  refugier  dans  I'ile  de  Bulinguge  il  demande  , 

Ijflt'tfll'  of 

plus  que  jamais  votre  secours  avec  instance.  En  Pere 
recompense  outre  le  monopole  du  commerce  dans  le  ^°'"'**^' 
Buganda,  il  vous  offre  comme  cadeau  cent  brasilas  d'ivoire, 
(=3,500  Pfd.),  qu'il  vous  donnera,  lorsqu'il  sera  remis  sur  le 
trone.  II  se  charge  aussi  de  la  nourriture  de  vos  hommes  et 
accepte  votre  drapeau.  Pour  nous  missionaires  catholiques, 
nous  serous  tres-heureux  et  tres-reconnaissants  de  profiter  de 
la  protection,  que  vous  pourrez,  je  I'espere,  accorder  aux  mis- 
sionaires et  Chretiens  de  ce  pays,  si  vous  parvenez  k  chasser 
les  musulmans.  Veuillez  avoir  la  bonte  de  presenter  mes 
salutations  empressees  a  vos  intrepides  compagnons  de 
route.  Je  prie  Dieu  de  continuer  k  henir  et  favoriser  votre 
entreprise. 

"  Daignez  agreer.  Men  cher  Monsieur,  I'expression  de  mes 
sentiments  de  profond  respect  et  de  ma  parfaite  consideration, 
avec  lesquels  j'ai  I'honneur  d'etre,  votre  tres  humble  serviteur, 

"  Simeon  Louedel, 

'•  Premier  Catholique  dans  le  Buganda." 
(TRANSLATION.) 

"  Very  dear  Sir, — We  have  heard  with  pain  that  you  could 
not  come,  at  least  not  at  present,  to  bring  assistance  to  Muanga 
and  to  the  Christians  of  Buganda,  as  we  hoped  you  would. 

"  King  Muanga  had  charged  me  to  write  to  you,  in  his 
name,  the  Kiswahili  letter  I  have  sent  to  you,  when  he  had 

NOT     YET     RECEIVED     THE     NEV7S     OP    THE    DEFEAT    OF    HIS    ARMY. 

Having  been  forced  to  take  refuge  in  the  island  of  Bulinguge, 
he  more  than  ever  urgently  asks  your  assistance.  In  return, 
besides  the  monopoly  of  commerce  in  Buganda,  he  offers  you, 
as  a  present,  a  hundred  pasilas  of  ivory  (equal  to  3,500  lbs.), 
which  he  will  give  you  when  he  is  restored  to  the  Translation 
throne.  He  also  takes  upon  himself  the  provisioning  lourders 
of  your  men,  and  accepts  your  flag.  For  our  part,  we  ^®"*'^- 
Catholic  missionaries  shall  be  very  glad  and  very  grateful  to 


320  XI'JW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

take  advantage  of  the  protection  which  you  will  be  able,  I  hope, 
to  grant  to  the  missionaries  and  Christians  of  this  country,  if 
you  succeed  in  driving  out  the  Mussulmans.  Have  the  kindness 
to  present  my  special  greetings  to  the  intrepid  companions  of 
your  journey.  I  pray  God  to  continue  to  bless  and  favour  your 
enterprise. 

"Deign  to  accept,  very  dear  Sir,  the  expression  of  my 
sentiments  of  profound  respect  and  perfect  consideration,  with 
which  I  have  the  honour  to  be,  your  very  humble  servant, 

"  Simeon  Lourdel, 

"  First  Catholic  in  Buganda." 

So  far,  including  the  knowledge  that  the  English,  upon  such 
information,  were  gone,  not  into  this  disagreeable  Uganda,  but 
elephant  hunting  to  the  north,  did  my  own  information  in 
Kawirondo  extend. 

I  have  here  related  these  facts,  accepting  the  danger  of 
incurring  suspicion  of  having  violated  the  secrecy  of  letters 
in  Kawirondo ;  but  I  hope  such  a  reproach  will  be  considered 
unjustified.  In  the  first  place,  it  is  not  a  question  of  opening 
letters,  on  my  part,  but  of  documents  which  were  laid  before 
me  by  the  acting  official  chief  of  the  English  station,  with  the 
Reasons  Observation  that  he  knew  that  "  my  brethren,"  his 
the'^doou"^  masters,  would  be  glad  to  communicate  all  these  facts, 
ments.  g^^jj  further  information  also,  to  me,  if  they  were  on 
the  spot,  and  with  the  express  permission  to  take  copies  of 
them.  Secondly,  my  position  must  be  taken  into  account — 
the  responsibility  I  bore  with  regard  to  the  expedition  and 
my  people,  which  made  it  my  simple  duty  to  gain  all  the 
knowledge  I  could  in  any  way  acquire  with  regard  to  the  lands 
that  lay  before  us. 

After  I  had  thus,  in  general,  found  where  I  was,  I  had  the 
Wasoga,  who  had  carried  the  last  Uganda  post  into  the  English 
camp,  brought  before  me,  to  question  them  at  large. 

"  You  are  Wasoga.     Who  has  sent  you  hither  ?  " 

"  We  are  compelled  by  the  Waganda  to  show  them  the  way 
to  the  English  camp  in  Kawirondo." 


INFORMATION  CONCERNING    USOGA.  321 

"  What  news  have  you  from  Uganda  ?  Who  is  the  master 
there  ?  " 

"  In  Uganda  there  is  war.      A  little  while  ago  Muanga  had 
beaten    the   Arabs ;    but   at    last   Karema   was   king  conversa- 
again,    and    Muanga     and    his    people    had    fled    to  **""  ''"^ 

^T        .   1       1     „  '■       ^  the  Waso- 

the    islands.  gamen. 

"What  kind  of  country  is  Usoga.P  Do  you  belong  to 
Uganda,  or  have  you  chiefs  of  your  own  ?  " 

"  We  have  chiefs  of  our  own,  but  they  are  all  subject  to  the 
Kabaka  of  Uganda." 

"Are  strangers  allowed  to  travel  through  Usoga  without 
permission  from  the  Kabaka  of  Uganda  ?  " 

"  If  a  stranger  comes  to  Usoga  our  sultans  have  to  report 
to  the  Mfalme  *  of  Uganda." 

"  Is  there  food  in  Usoga  ?  " 

"Food,  as  the  sand  by  the  sea,"  and  they  went  through  the 
movement  of  heaping  up  sand  in  both  hands. 

"  What  kind  of  food  ?  " 

"  Bananas,  grain,  and  flesh  of  all  kinds." 

"Do  the  Wasoga  love  the  whites,  or  do  they  make  war 
upon  them  ?  " 

"  The  Wasoga  love  the  whites,  but  they  must  do  what  the 
Waganda  tell  them." 

"  Are  there  Waganda  in  Usoga  ?  " 

"  Yes ;  they  come  every  year  to  get  tribute  from  thence, 
and  now  many  of  them  are  there  who  have  fled  from  the  war 
in  Uganda." 

"  Do  the  Wasoga  belong  to  Muanga's  party,  or  do  they  hold 
with  Karema  ?  " 

"Muanga  is  the  Mfalme  of  Uganda,  and  Karema  is  only  a 
wicked  man,  who  makes  war  upon  him." 

"  Now  1  want  to  know,  what  is  the  Kisogo  for  a  quantity  of 
words  from  the  Kiswahili  language." 

*  Kabaka  or  Mfalme  is  the  title  of  the  King  of  Uganda.  I  conjecture 
that  Kabaka  is  a  Bantu  word,  while  Mfalme  is  perhaps  of  Semitic  origin. 
The  title  Kabaka  is  evidently  the  same  as  the  Kaba  in  the  title  of  King 
Kaba  Eega  of  Unjoro. 

21 


322 


iY7?ir  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 


I   noted  down   a  number  of  words,   which  show  that  the 
language  of  the  "Wasoga  is  maiulj'  of  pure  Bantu  origin  : — 


English. 

Kiswahili. 

Kisogo. 

Eiswahili 

the  way 

ndjia 

njola 

and  Kisogo 

goes 

anakwenda 

elegenda 

languages. 

where  ? 

wapi? 

ekuba  ? 

to  the  Turks 

qua  Turki 

kubo  Turki 

want  corn 

nataka  veri  veri 

dsagga  limere. 

water 

madji 

madsi 

fowl 

kuku 

koko 

eggs 

majai 

magi 

milk 

masnia 

amata 

forward 

twende 

tugende 

I  want 

nataka 

ndgale 

a  guide 

kiongosi  kwa 

munlu      (man 
wakuntare 

to  TJnjoro 

TJnjoro 

TJnjoro 

slowly 

pole  pole 

genan  pole 

give 

nipe 

npa. 

Twhahili) 


I  then  sent  for  the  Sultan  and  his  suite,  and  asked  him, — 

"  Do  you  know  a  country  called  Unjoro  ?  " 

He  pointed  in  a  north-westerly  direction. 

"  Are  the  Wangoro  your  friends  or  your  enemies  ?  " 

"  The  Wangoro  are  our  friends ;  the  Waganda  our 
enemies." 

"  If  you  want  to  march  to  Unjoro,  must  you  pass  through 
Usogo  or  Uganda  ?  " 

"  No  ;  if  we  want  to  go  to  Unjoro  we  have  to  go  by  way  of 
Kwa  Telessa.  From  thence  we  go  to  Akore  or  Akola,  and 
thence  direct  to  Unjoro.  It  takes  four  days  to  reach  Akore,  and 
another  four  days  to  get  from  there  to  the  Nile,  at  Unjoro,  and 
one  day  to  cross  the  Nile  ;  so  that  we  have  a  nine  days'  march 
to  Unjoro  from  this  place." 

"  Have  you  much  intercourse  with  the  Wangoro  ?  " 

"Yes;  the  Wangoro  come  to  Kwa  Telessa,  and  bring  us. 
powder  and  ammunition.  We  take  cattle  and  corn  to  them, 
and  receive  powder  in  exchange." 

"  Is  Kwa  Telessa  a  large  place  ?  " 


GUIDES  FOR  KWA    TELE8SA.  323 

"Kwa  Telessa  is  a  large  town,  and  there  you  hear  news 
rom  all  the  countries  of  the  west." 

"  Can  you  give  me  guides  to  Telessa  ?  " 

"Certainly;  I  am  your  friend,  and  you  may  command 
here.     If  you  want  guides  to  Telessa  I  will  give  you  them." 

"  How  many  days'  march  is  it  from  here  to  Kwa  Telessa  P  " 

"  We  sleep  the  first  day  in  Kwa  Tindi,  the  second  in  Kwa 
Surga,  and  the  third  day  we  reach  Kwa  Telessa."  informa- 

"  What  sort  of  people  live  in  these  countries  ?  "        Kwa^'""'' 

"  The  Walukuma  live  there."  ™«s^- 

"  Are  you  friendly  with  them,  or  do  you  live  at  war  with 
them.P" 

"  The  Walukuma  are  our  friends ;  hut  close  to  them  live 
the  Walunda.  They  are  very  bad  people,  and  with  them  we 
are  at  war." 

"  Then  when  I  march  to  Kwa  Telessa,  and  from  there  to 
Unjoro,  I  have  no  need  to  go  by  way  either  of  Usoga  or 
Uganda  ?  " 

"  No.  You  leave  those  countries  to  your  left,  and  you  go 
straight  to  Unjoro." 

"  Then  get  me  some  guides  to  Kwa  Telessa.  To-morrow  I 
shall  remain  here,  and  the  next  day  I  shall  march  from  here  to 
Unjoro.    When  I  come  back  I  will  beat  your  Mangati*  for  you." 

The  next  day  the  negotiations  were  continued,  and  the  final 
result  of  them  all  was  that  I  engaged  three  guides  (Gasia, 
Amoquaja,  and  Waschitoba)  to  lead  us  to  Kwa  Telessa. 

February  3rd  was  one  of  the  most  unsatisfactory  days  of 
the  whole  expedition.  I  had  certainly  the  pleasure  of  seeing 
Herr  von  Tiedemann  completely  restored  to  health ;  but  an  in- 
cident occurred  on  this  day  which  threatened  to  upset  all  my 
plans  for  the  future,  and  forced  upon  me,  to  my  dismay,  the 
conviction  that  I  was  by  no  means  so  absolutely  sure  of  my 
own  followers  as  I  had  supposed  already.  In  the  morning  Ali 
Somal  came  to  me,  with  Hussein,  endeavouring  to  persuade  me 
not  to  undertake  the  march  towards  the  west.     "  The  Doctor  is 

*  I  afterwards  came  to  be  of  opinion  that  a  confusion  between  Wangoro 
and  Wachoro  was  involved  in  this  information  of  the  Sultan's. 


324  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

very  fiery,  is  the  universal  opinion,"  they  told  me  ;  "  he  is  not 
afraid,  but  he  will  lead  us  all  to  destruction."  "  Pray  wait 
here,"  added  Ali  Somal,  "  till  Mr.  Jackson  and  his  three  gentle- 
men come  back  with  our  people.  Then  you  can  all  take  counsel 
together,  and  I  know  that  Mr.  Jackson  will  be  very  glad  to  carry 
out  a  plan  in  concert  with  you." 

"  But  Mr.  Jackson  has  already  been  lying  here  for  more  than 

four  months,  and  you  told  me  yesterday  that  so  soon 

sou's  pro-    as  he  returned  from  the  north  he  would  march  back 

ee  mga.    ^^  ^^^  coast.     How  cau  you  say  that  he  will  be  glad 

to  carry  out  a  plan  in  concert  with  me  ?  " 

"  Mr.  Jackson  would  have  been  only  too  glad  to  go  to  Uganda 
himself,  but  he  was  afraid  to  do  so  because  of  the  uncertainty 
in  the  whole  state  of  affairs.  If  he  sees  that  you  are  determined 
to  advance,  he  will  probably  attach  himself  to  you." 

"  Well,  then  it  would,  after  all,  be  better  for  me  to  go  on 
first  and  see  if  the  roads  are  safe.  Then  I  will  write  to  Mr. 
Jackson,  and  I  shall  be  glad  if  he  will  follow  me." 

"  I  cannot  decide  as  to  that,"  said  Ali  Somal ;  "  but  I 
should  like  to  save  the  lives  of  my  brethren,  the  Somali,  who 
all  say  you  are  too  fiery,  and  would  rather  wait  here  than  go 
on  with  you  at  once." 

"  Is  that  true  P  "  I  asked  of  Hussein. 

"  Yes,  sir.  I  will  gladly  go  with  you,  to  die  with  you ;  but 
the  others  think  you  ought  rather  to  wait  here.  They  are  tired 
of  carrying  on  war  every  day." 

"  Well,  then,  go  and  tell  your  people  that  I  have  heard  your 
words.  I  thought  I  had  men  and  soldiers  with  me,  but  I  see 
now  that  such  does  not  seem  to  be  the  case.  Tell  the  Somalis, 
that  to  each  one  among  them  who  may  prefer  to  stay  here  with 
the  English  I  will  give  permission  to  do  so,  and  that  I  do  not 
mean,  either,  to  deduct  anything  from  the  pay  which  they  have 
earned  until  now.  But  tell  them  also  that  I  shall  know,  by 
the  decision  which  each  man  comes  to,  whether  we  Germans 
have  been  deceived  in  the  Somalis  or  not.  And  ask  them  what 
report  of  your  brethren  I  am  accordingly  to  give  some  day  in 
Aden." 


DEBATE    Wrrn   the  SO-VALIS. 


325 


"  Very  good,  sir." 

Hussein  went  a^Yaj,  and  returned  in  an  hour  with  the  answer 
that  the  Somalis  thought  that,  from  my  having  asked  them 
whether  they  wished  to  stay  behind,  they  might  assume  that  I 
had  no  further  need  of  them.  Accordingly,  they  asked  per- 
mission that  all  of  them  might  remain  here. 

"Hussein,  do  you  want  to  stay  here,  too.P" 


HussEix,  Leader  of  the  Somalis. 


"No,  sir.  I  should  like  to  go  with  you,  but  I  should  like 
the  other  Somalis  to  come  too." 

"  Well,  then,  call  your  people  together  for  a  conference 
with  me." 

Thereupon  the  Somalis  appeared  before  my  tent,  and  I  spoke 
to  them  to  the  following  efl'ect : — 

"  You  know  that  I  had  you  all  engaged  in  Aden,  to  go  with 
]ne  in  search  of  a  great  German  who  rules  in  the  land  of  the 
Turki.  We  marched  together  up  the  Tana,  where  the  English 
Expedition  was  forced  to  turn  back,  and  we  reached  Bariugo 


326  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

sooner  than  they  did.  We  are  the  men  who  vanquished  the 
haughty  Massais  of  Leikipia,  and  every  tribe  that  tried  to  stop 
our  march  we  have  overthrown.  Did  you  ever,  during  this 
expedition,  hear  any  resolutions  come  to  by  me  which  resulted 
in  placing  our  lives  in  danger  ?  Have  I  not,  up  to  this  point, 
always  brought  you  safely  through  every  difficulty  ?  " 

"  You  speak  the  truth,  sir." 

"  Have  we  not  always  had  food  in  plenty  ?  Have  I  not  led 
you  through  countries  where  there  was  neither  road  nor  track, 
and  where  I  could  only  find  the  direction  from  books  ?  " 

"  It  is  true,  sir." 

"  Do  you  not  believe  that  your  lives  are  as  precious  to  me 
as  my  own,  and  that  if  you  died  I  should  perish  too  ?  " 

"You  were  always  foremost,  sir." 

"  Well,  and  do  you  think,  then,  that  I  wish  to  die  in  this 
infernal  land  of  Africa  P  Do  you  believe  that  I  would  march 
Speech  to  iito  couutries  where  a  certain  death  is  awaiting  us  ? 
the  somahs.  ^^^  ^^  y^^  ^^q^  think  that  if  I  now  move  westward, 
in  spite  of  all,  I  must  have  information  which  is  better  than 
all  that  you  hear  about  it  ?  I  have  read  the  great  letters  that 
Ali  Somal  has  given  me,  and  I  know  as  well  as  he  does  that 
we  are  no  longer  able  to  make  war  in  the  countries  that  we  are 
now  going  to  enter.  But  do  you  not  know  that  I  am  able,  if 
I  please,  also  to  make  peace,  as  I  did  with  the  Gallas  and  at 
Lake  Baringo  ?     W^ell,  what  do  you  say  ?  " 

Musa  Somal  answered,  "  Sir,  when  Hussein  asked  this 
morning  whether  we  would  stay  here  or  go  with  you,  we  thought 
you  M'ere  tired  of  us,  and  wished  to  go  forward  without  the 
Somalis.  But  now  that  we  hear  that  you  still  love  your 
Somalis,  and  will  be,  as  ever,  father  and  mother  to  them,  we 
cannot  forsake  you,  and  we  will  go  forward  and  die  with  you." 

"  What  are  you  talking  about  dying  for  ?  I  have  just  told 
you  I  have  no  intention  of  dying  here.  We  are  all  of  us  in 
God's  hand.  If  it  is  Allah's  will,  we  shall  die,  whether  it  be 
here  or  in  any  other  place.  But  if  such  is  not  His  will,  we  shall 
not  die,  wherever  we  go." 

A  murmur  of  assent  greeted  this  remark,  and  I  continued, 


DR.    PETER'S   DECLARATION   TO    THE  SO.VALLS. 


327 


"  So  now,  then,  I  will  tell  you  what  my  plans  are.  There  is  a 
route  from  here  to  Emin  Pasha  which  leaves  Usoga  and  Uiianda 
on  the  left  hand,  and  leads  direct  to  Unjoro.  In  Unjoro  there 
is  a  kins:;,  Kaba  Rega,  who  was  formerly  Emin's  friend,  and  with 
whom  I  hope  to  make  friends.     If  I  succeed,  and  receive  inform- 


Shauei  with  the  Somali  Soldiers. 

ation  to  that  effect,  I  shall  cross  the  Nile  at  a  place  c;dled 
Mruli.  If  I  do  not  succeed,  we  shall  march  along  the  right  side 
of  the  Nile  d(jwn  to  Fauvera,  one  of  Emin's  stations.  If  we 
march  well  we  can  get  to  the  Nile  in  nine  days,  and  after  that 
God  will  help  us.  And  now  go,  soldiers  of  the  Sonialis,  and 
ponder  the  words  which  you  have  heard." 


328  NEW  LIGHT   ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

Meamvhile  the  bearers  had  got  wind  of  what  was  going  on 
among  the  Somalis  ;  and  thereupon  thej^  too  held  a  meeting,  and 
sent  a  deputation  to  the  Somalis  with  the  message,  "  If  you  do 
not  wish  to  go  any  farther  with  Kupanda  Sharo  we  shall  not 
go  either.     Let  us  know  what  you  have  decided  to  do." 

To  this  the  Somalis  replied,  "We  are  Somalis,  and  you 
bearers  are  different  people.  We  obey  the  commands  of  our 
The  Somalis  cMef,  and  if  you  are  not  willing  to  do  so  we  shall  fight 
reply.  against  you  at  his  command,  and  shoot  down  every 
man  who  runs  away."  This  answer  was  confirmed  to  me  after- 
wards by  Musa,  the  headman  of  the  bearers  from  Dar-es-Salam, 
who  had  headed  the  deputation. 

The  plan  which  I  had  laid  before  the  Somalis  was  the  result 
of  information  of  different  kinds  which  I  had  received  in  Kwa 
Sundu,  and  was  based  upon  the  repeated  assurances  of  Ali  Somal, 
that  Emin  Pasha  had  remained  alone  in  his  province.  In  this 
case  it  was  of  course  impossible  to  neglect  any  chance  or 
refuse  any  effort  to  reach  him,  and  I  was  firmly  resolved  once 
more  to  stake  all  for  this  purpose.  Any  other  decision  would 
have  seemed  to  me  as  futile  as  if  I  had  received  the  commission 
Dr.  Peter's  to  explore  the  interior  of  Vesuvius,  and  after  collecting 
decision,  everything  necessary  for  the  purpose,  had  proceeded 
to  the  edge  of  the  crater,  and  then  faced  about,  and  returned 
home  with  my  report,  "  It  cannot  be  done  !  " 

After  the  communication  from  Uganda  I  was  obliged  to 
desist  from  passing  through  that  country,  because  by  so  doing  I 
should  have  needlessly  increased  the  risk  twofold  ;  and  if  I  were 
successful  in  crossing  Uganda  alive,  the  dangers  in  Unjoro 
would  not  be  diminished  in  the  least. 

On  the  other  hand,  I  was  able  to  hope  that,  if  I  had  the  good 
fortune  of  falling  in  with  Emin  Pasha  I  might,  together  with 
him,  take  into  consideration  what  was  possible  to  be  done  for 
the  Christians  in  Uganda.  It  was  evident  that  we  should  have  to 
make  the  question  of  Uganda  our  first  subject  of  deliberation, 
because  it  comprised  within  itself  the  quickest  possibility  of 
procuring  ammunition  for  the  Pasha.  The  plan  of  my  farther 
advance,  which  I  decided  to  put  into  execution  on  the  following 


THE  MARCH  FROM  KWA   SUNDU.  329 

morning,    was    framed    to    suit  these    considerations.     There 
was  no  object  now  in  our  remaining  any  longer   in  ^ 
Kawirondo.     Our   doing   so   would   simply  waste  the  for  the 
stores  of  the  expedition  for  no  purpose,  and  weaken  the   ®""°"- 
spirit  of  my  people.     And,  in  the  last  place,  I   should  have 
rendered  myself  completely  independent  of  the  English. 

Nevertheless,  since  it  was  impossible  to  foresee  the  result  of 
the  advance,  Herr  von  Tiedemann  and  I  resolved  to  leave  behind 
our  letters  and  reports  at  the  English  station,  to  be  forwarded  to 
the  coast  for  Europe  ;  a  fatal  resolution,  which  had  for  its  result 
the  loss  of  the  whole  packet.  Exactly  the  same  fate  befell 
me  with  respect  to  all  the  letters  sent  to  me  at  Zanzibar 
by  the  English  mail.  "  Horse  and  horseman  saw  we  never 
more  !  "  As  it  seemed  to  me  desirable,  if  it  was  in  any  way 
possible,  to  secure  the  stores  of  ammunition  collected  by 
the  English  for  Emin  Pasha,  I  left  a  letter  for  Mr.  Jackson 
at  his  station,  in  which  I  informed  him  of  my  march  in 
the  direction  of  Uganda,  and  offered  him  my  friendly  co- 
operation. I  promised  to  keep  him  constantly  au  courant 
of  the  characteristics  of  the  route,  and  hoped  that  he  would 
then  decide,  in  the  interests  of  civilisation  and  humanity,  to 
follow  me  with  his  expedition  into  the  Equatorial  Province,  in 
order  to  work  in  union  with  me  for  the  relief  of  Emin  Pasha. 

At  sunrise  on  February  4th  I  marched  out  of  the  English 
station  at  Kwa  Sundu  with  beat  of  drum.  I  had  previously  tried 
to  make  it  clear  to  the  Sultan  and  his  relations,  that  they  would 
do  better  not  to  bring  into  play  the  intrigues  and  faithlessness 
of  the  black  races,  of  which  all  travellers  complain.  As  I  was 
preparing  to  depart  the  guides  declared,  all  at  once,  Faituess 
that  they  did  not  wish  to  go  with  me  to-day ;  and  ^'^**'- 
when  I  urged  them  to  fulfil  the  engagement  into  which  they 
had  entered  with  me,  I  was  again  treated  to  the  dogged 
"A-a-a-a!"  which  I  have  already  described. 

A  few  well-directed  blows  distributed  among  the  whole 
population  and  the  English  intimated  delicately  to  the  Sultan 
and  his  family  that  this  behaviour  was  not  to  be  tolerated  by  us. 
But  it  was  not  until  I  had  threatened  to  burn  the  place  over 


330  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

their  heads  that  the}'  resohed  to  undertake  the  guiding  of  our 
part}',  for  which  I  had  already  paid  them  on  the  previous  day. 

On  this  morning  I  was  in  an  especially  irritable  frame  of 
mind,  because  I  had  been  told  that  one  of  my  Somalis,  named 
Ismael  Ali,  had  deserted.  This  could  only  have  been  possible  if 
either  the  English  garrison  or  the  native  population  had  con- 
nived at  it.  But  we  had  something  better  to  do  than  to  stay 
here;  looking  after  a  deserter,  and  so  at  about  six  o'clock  we 
.  ^,         started  off  in  the  direction  of  the  north-west.    At  seven 

On  tlie 

march  o'clock  we  crossed,  with  some  trouble,  the  stony  river 
Nsoia,  which  flows  into  the  Victoria  Nyanza  below  Kwa 
Sundu,  after  draining  the  Angata  na  Nyuki. 

The  Wakawirondo,  under  the  protection  of  our  dreaded 
expedition,  pressed  forward  with  their  herds  to  the  river,  to 
seek  the  pasture -ground  on  the  opposite  bank,  which  they  had 
formerly  avoided  out  of  fear  of  the  western  tribes. 

The  Nsoia  is  very  swift  in  this  place,  and  the  crossing 
was  attended  with  great  difficulty.  Again  and  again  some  of 
my  cattle  were  carried  down  stream,  and  had  to  be  recaptured 
with  much  trouble.  By  nine  o'clock  all  were  on  the  right  bank, 
and  now  our  way  lay  onward  into  the  distant  unknown  West. 

The  scenery  through  which  we  marched  presented,  indeed, 
a  dreary  spectacle.  Everywhere  ruined  plantations  and  burned 
or  half-burned  villages.  The  Mangati  had  been  "at  work" 
here,  and  if  up  to  this  morning  I  had  been  rather  angry  with 
myself  for  having  allowed  myself  to  be  drawn  in  to  take  part  in 
the  fight  against  them,  I  now  rejoiced  at  having  for  once  given 
these  robbers  and  bandits  a  well-merited  lesson. 

So  we  went  on  for  six  hours  through  long  stretches  of  hill 
Through  districts.  The  mountains  which  shut  in  Kawirondo 
thehius.  -^  ^jjg  gj^g^  ^^^  Samia  in  the  north,  lay  extended 
before  us  in  a  south-westerly  direction. 

At  about  three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  we  reached  their 
north-eastern  spurs,  and  here  I  set  up  the  camp  by  the  little 
river  Manieni,  which  flows  into  the  Victoria  Nyanza  about 
three  miles  to  the  west  of  Nsoia. 

The  landscape  here  puts  on  a  somewhat  fresher  character. 


EMBASSY  FR02I  SULTAN  TINDI.  331 

We  found  ourselves  again   in   inhabited  districts  and  among 
kraals,  which  were  surrounded  by  fields  of  grain. 

This  was  the  country  of  Kwa  Tindi,  that  is  to  say,  of  the 
Sultan  Tindi,  who  rules  over  the  western  part  of  Kawirondo. 
No  white  man  had  ever  been  here  before  us,  but  the  natives  had 
heard  of  us,  and  the  women,  including  the  naked  daughters 
of  Kawirondo  and  the  Massai  women,  who  are  clothed  up 
to  the  neck,  soon  crowded  round  my  expedition,  offering  for 
sale  fire -wood  and  provisions  of  all  kinds.  Moreover,  the 
Sultan  Tindi  had  no  sooner  heard  of  our  arrival,  than  he 
sent  messengers  to  me  from  his  capital,  which  lay  about  a  mile 
away  to  the  westward,  with  the  reproachful  question,  "  Why  do 
you  set  up  your  camp  so  far  from  my  capital  ?  Why  do  you 
not  come  to  me,  who  would  so  gladly  be  your  friend  ?  " 

I  answered  the  messenger, — 

"  Tell  your  sultan  that  my  people  are  too  tired  to  be  able 
to  march  as  far  as  Kwa  Tindi  to-night.  For  all  that,  the 
sultan  may  be  assured  that  I  have  come  into  his  Message  to 
country  with  intentions  wholly  pacific.  To-morrow  I  *^^  ^""*"- 
intend  to  pass  through  his  land  toward  the  west.  Ask  your 
lord  whether  I  can  do  so  in  peace,  or  whether  he  prefers  to 
measure  his  strength  with  us  in  war." 

"Tindi  desires  your  friendship,  but  we  hasten  to  carry 
your  words  to  him." 

In  an  hour  and  a  half,  towards  evening,  they  came  back. 

"  The  sultan  bids  us  say.  Why  does  the  great  white  man, 
who  has  beaten  the  Massais,  our  enemies,  and  the  Mangati, 
who  plunder  our  villages,  speak  to  me  of  war  ?  I  and  my  land 
belong  to  him,  and  I  only  wish  that  he  would  come  to-morrow 
and  set  up  his  tent  in  my  capital.  We  will  give  him  all  he 
desires,  and  show  him  every  honour  which  is  his  due." 

I  replied  to  the  messenger, — 

"  Tell  your  sultan  that  I  have  heard  his  words  of  peace,  and 
received  them  as  such.  To-morrow  I  shall  march  by  his  capital, 
because  I  am  going  on  farther  to  Unjoro,  but  when  I  come 
back,  then  I  will  stay  with  him,  and  we  will  exchange  gifts  of 
friendship." 


332  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

On  the  evening  of  this  day  I  was  again  to  have  an  oppor- 
tunit}'  of  learning  from  ocular  demonstration  more  about  the 
"  settled "  condition  of  this  district.  I  had  just  lain  down  in 
bed,  when  all  at  once  a  diabolical  row  broke  out  in  the  kraal 
that  lies  ten  minutes'  walk  to  the  east  of  our  camp,  and  by 
which  we  had  marched  in  the  afternoon.  Horns,  drums,  pipes, 
shrieking,  and  wild  howling  clashed  together  in  a  chaos  of 
sound.  From  time  to  time  there  came  a  pause  ;  but  then  the 
tumult  broke  out  with  renewed  violence.  I  called  my  sentry 
Attack  on  i^to  the  tent,  and  asked  what  was  the  matter.  He 
the  kraal,  ijrought  the  guides  from  Kawirondo  to  me,  and  from 
these  I  learned  that  robber  bands  from  Elgumi  had  just  attacked 
the  kraal,  and  that  its  defenders  were  now  fighting. 

"That  is  what  Tindi's  Massais  say,"  they  told  me;  "they 
are  just  gone  by  to  beat  back  the  Waelgumi." 

I  sent  for  Hussein,  and  bade  him  give  out  about  a  hundred 
cartridges  for  my  people  immediately.  The  danger  to  our 
camp  was  twofold.  It  was  possible  that  the  Wakawirondo,  in 
case  they  were  defeated,  would  flee  to  us,  and  that  so  we  should 
be  involved  in  the  struggle  ;  or,  on  the  other  hand,  that  the  Wa- 
elgumi, even  if  this  did  not  occur,  might  attack  us  in  the  mere 
wantonness  of  their  victory.  It  is  significant  of  the  indiffer- 
ence with  which  we  were  all  of  us  accustomed  by  this  time  to 
regard  such  possibilities,  that  we  all  stayed  quietly  in  bed.  Not 
until  the  noise  broke  out  on  the  other  side  of  the  kraal  and  in 
the  immediate  vicinity  of  our  camp  did  I  get  up,  put  my  guns 
in  order,  light  my  pipe,  and  sit  down  in  my  armchair  in  front 
of  my  tent.  I  sent  to  beg  Lieutenant  von  Tiedemann  to  join 
me,  and  we  had,  from  ten  o'clock  to  one  in  the  morning,  the 
curious  experience  of  being  able  to  observe,  at  least  as  far  as 
the  sound  is  concerned,  a  battle  between  natives  close  at  hand. 

The  moon  shone  bright  above  the  scene,  the  crickets  chirped, 
frogs  croaked  in  the  brook  below,  and  man  alone  demonstrated 
The  comba-  his  likeness  to  his  Maker  by  the  tumult  and  cries  of 
tive  natives,  p^^j^  which  Continually  clashed  upon  our  ears,  amid 
the  sweet  peacefulness  of  nature. 

Towards  one  o'clock  the  Massais,  who  were  in  the  pay  of 


THE  EXPEDITION  PASSES  KWA    TINDI.  333 

Tindi,  advanced  to  their  attack,  and  gradually  the  din  of  battle 
died  away  in  the  north,  where,  however,  the  natives  were  still 
awake,  and  received  their  retreating  friends  with  cries  and  yells. 

The  whole  aifair  passed  away  like  a  vision,  and  once  more 
the  earth  lay  at  our  feet  in  softest  repose  and  deepest  peace 
under  the  floods  of  moonlight.  My  people  had  paid  so  little 
attention  to  the  whole  transaction,  that  they  peacefully  snored 
all  round  us  during  all  the  noise  of  the  warfare. 

At  dawn  on  the  following  day  I  gave  orders  for  the  trumpet 
to  call  the  march  out,  and  we  started  at  once  in  the  direction  of 
the  north-west.  A  little  after  six  o'clock  we  crossed  the  Sio, 
and  towards  seven  we  reached  Kwa  Tindi.  The  town  is  pic- 
turesquely situated  on  a  height,  between  basalt  rocks.  It  is 
surrounded  by  a  strong  wall  of  red  stone  and  a  deep 

FfliT  tic  111  Sirs 

dike ;  the  gates  boldly  and  picturesquely  arched,  and  concerning 
connected  by  dams  with  the  outer  world.  As  soon  ^''""''^'^y- 
as  we  approached  any  village  the  drummer  had  orders  always 
to  beat  a  tattoo,  and  in  this  manner  Ave  passed  by  Kwa  Tindi. 
The  population  streamed  out  of  the  gate  in  crowds  to  stare  at 
us,  and  I  thought  I  saw  among  the  throng  the  Sultan  himself, 
with  his  retinue,  recognisable  by  his  ornaments.  However,  I 
did  not  choose  to  make  an)'^  demonstration  of  greeting.  At  a 
short  distance  I  passed  by  the  town,  and  soon  the  whole  scene 
lay  behind  us  like  a  Fata  Morgana.  We  now  crossed  two  more 
streams,  tributaries  of  the  Sio,  one  of  which  is  named  Nogombe. 
When  we  had  passed  the  latter  the  guides  suddenly  turned  away 
from  the  north-western  to  a  westerly  direction.  W^hen  I  pro- 
tested against  their  doing  so  they  answered, — 

"  To  the  north  of  us  live  the  Walundu,  with  whom  we  are  at 
war.  We  cannot  go  thither.  But  be  of  good  courage,  we  will 
lead  you  to  Kwa  Telessa  to-morrow  by  this  road." 

I  asked,  "  What  land  lies  yonder  to  the  left  of  us  ?  " 

They  said,  "  That  is  the  land  of  Samia,  and  behind  it  lies 
Usoga.  We  will  not  bring  you  there,  but  to  Kwa  Telessa, 
from  where  you  can  go  on  to  Unjoro." 

"  What  is  the  name  of  those  mountains  yonder  to  the  left, 
behind  which  Samia  lies  P  " 


334  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

"That  is  the  Fukulu." 

"  And  the  mountains  here  to  the  right  of  us,  that  reach 
across  from  ElgonP" 

"  That  is  the  Eshekulu." 

(KuIk  is  certainly  the  same  root  as  the  Kiswahili  Jcili, 
meaning  mountain. ) 

Between  these  two  chains  of  hills,  which  we  had  seen  already 
from  Kwa  Sundu,  and  which  from  that  place  looked  like  one 
uninterrupted  uniform  mountain  range  to  the  west  of  Kawirondo, 
we  now  passed  on.  There  is  a  gap  of  from  fourteen  to  eighteen 
miles  wide  between  the  two,  forming  a  well-cultivated  plateau, 
still  at  an  elevation  of  nearly  four  thousand  feet.  As  the  first 
white  man  who  ever  marched  through  this  gap  and  explored  the 
March  formation  of  these  mountains,  I  named  the  mass  of 
"^Junker*''*  mountains  in  the  south,  after  our  countryman  whom  we 
Kange."  were  endeavouring  to  reach,  the  "  Bmin  Pasha  Moun- 
tains ;  "  while  I  christened  the  chain  to  the  north,  after  his  friend 
and  companion,  the  "Junker  Range."  The  two  ranges  have 
nothing  in  common  in  their  formation.  The  Emin  Pasha 
Mountains  extend  in  an  east  and  west  direction,  turning  only 
their  counterslope  towards  Kawirondo,  and  belong  altogether  to 
the  volcanic  girdle  of  the  Victoria  Nyanza  Lake ;  while  the 
Volcanic      Juuker  Range  is  nothing  more  than  the  south-westerly 

formation.     ^^^^.  ^^  ^^^  jgjgQ^_       Qf  ^^^^^^  ^j^^y  ^^^^  ^^^^^^  ^^  ^j^^ 

magnificent  volcanic  system  to  which  the  whole  plateau,  over 
which  we  marched,  owes  its  origin.  When,  on  the  morning  of 
February  5th,  I  fixed  upon  these  designations,  I  felt  that  we 
were  now  indeed  entering  the  regions  in  which  the  activity  of 
these  two  men  was  displayed. 

Kawirondo  now  lay  behind  us,  and  the  landscape  gradually 
assumed  a  new  character.  The  doom-palm  appeared  again,  and 
the  character  of  the  inhabitants  themselves  gradually  appeared 
under  a  new  aspect.  We  marched  on  over  valley  and  moun- 
tain, through  stream  and  swamp,  till  two  o'clock  in  the 
afternoon. 

We  then  reached  the  great  place  called  Kwa  Tunga,  also 
surrounded  by  proud  walls  and  with  high  gates,   over  which 


FORWARD   TO  KWA    TELESSA.  335 

appeared  gables  and  roofs,  which  reminded  me,  in  some  degree, 
of  India.     "  Habesch  !  "  cried  my  Somalis,  when  the}-  March  to 
came  in  sight  of  the  place;  and  when  I  asked  them  ^'^^  ^""sa. 
what  they  meant  by  that,  they  said,  "  Just  like  those  of  Kwa 
Tunga  are  the  villages  of  Abyssinia  built." 

Kwa  Tunga  lies  exactly  to  the  north  of  the  Bmin  Pasha 
Mountains,  and  marks  almost  the  centre  of  the  chain.  I  set  up 
my  camp  by  the  southern  ramparts  of  the  town,  opposite  the 
mountain  range  which  I  had  before  my  eyes  all  the  afternoon. 

Below  the  hill  on  which  the  place  and  my  camp  were  situated 
flows  a  little  brook.     The  air  was  as  clear  and  pure  as     .     , 

.  ^  Fnendh- 

on  an  August  day  m  Germany.     Our  relations  with  ness  of  the 
the   natives  were   of  a  friendly    character,  and  in  a  ^^°^  *' 
hopeful  and  joyous  mood  we  spent  the  afternoon  and  evening. 

Although  we  had  food  in  plenty,  one  of  my  bearers  deserted 
on  the  following  morning,  with  his  wife.  Uganda,  in  fact,  still 
rose  before  my  people  as  a  menacing  phantom  of  terror. 

On  this  day  we  marched  on  again,  in  a  west-north-westerly 
direction,  towards  Kwa  Telessa.  The  aspect  of  the  country 
became  more  and  more  cultivated  and  fertile  along  the  „    ,  . 

"  March  to 

green  slopes.     Village  after  village  appeared,  with  large  Kwa 
herds  of  oxen    and  flocks    of  sheep  pasturing.      The 
natives  were  very  demonstrative  in  their   friendliness.      Our 
guides  had  only  to  tell  them  that  we  were  the  people  who  had 
beaten  the  Massais    and  the   Mangati,   to   call   forth   stormy 
salvos  of  applause  from  them. 

The  method  of  salutation  here  is  by  snapping  with  the  thumb 
and  forefinger,  which,  when  it  is  done  by  large  numbers  of  men 
together,  has  a  very  pleasing  and  attractive  sound. 

Whenever  we  passed  by  a  kraal,  the  women  and  girls  came 
out  to  bring  us  water  and  steaming  batatas.  The  way  these 
Walukuma  fortify  their  villages  is  peculiar.  The  clay  wall,  such 
as  is  seen  even  at  Kwa  Tunga,  now  disappears,  and  in  its  place 
great  enclosures  of  cactus  are  made,  which  surround  the  Mhole 
place  to  a  height  of  from  eight  to  twelve  yards  ;  a  defence  equally 
tasteful  and  efficacious.     At  one  o'clock  we  reached  Kwa  Telessa. 

This  place  is  surrounded  by  a  thick  growing  hedge,  and  lies 


336  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

completely  hidden  in  a  grove  of  bananas,  within  which  the  huts 
Description  are  picturesquely  grouped.  More  and  more  we  began 
of  the  town.  ^^  realise  that  we  were  in  Central  Africa.  Kwa  Telessa 
was  the  first  place  to  which  the  description  of  the  Seribas  of 
Central  Africa,  written  by  Emin  Pasha  and  Schweinfurth,  applied. 
At  the  same  time  we  made  our  first  acquaintance  with  the  dress 
materials  of  Uganda,  namely,  the  brown  bark  of  the  wild  fig- 
tree,  woven  into  a  kind  of  cloth.  The  dialect  itself  was  different  ; 
and  already  among  the  sounds  which  we  had  heard  at  Kawirondo 
were  blended  the  more  indistinct  accents  of  Uganda. 

We  pitched  our  tents  under  a  mighty  cotton-tree,  inside 
the  hedge  rampart  of  the  place,  while  the  men  were  quartered 
in  the  neighbouring  huts  in  the  shade  of  the  banana  trees. 
Readily  and  amicably  the  natives  came  forward.  When,  after 
my  arrival,  I  was  taking  a  short  rest,  reclining  in  my  arm-chair, 
my  attention  was  suddenly  aroused  by  a  tittering  at  the  door 
ladies  of  ^t  the  back  of  my  tent.  I  turned  round,  and  saw, 
the  country,  standing  there,  three  really  charming  young  girls,  in 
dresses  of  red  stuff",  and  adorned  with  beads,  who,  as  soon  as 
I  turned  my  head  towards  them,  greeted  me  almost  roguishly 
with  the  usual  snap  of  the  fingers.  The  girls,  in  their  demeanour, 
reminded  me  in  some  degree  of  European  young  ladies. 

There  was  food  to  be  had  here  in  abundance,  and  presently 
the  Sultan  Telessa  came  from  a  neighbouring  plantation  to 
Visit  of  greet  me — an  old  man,  looking  much  like  a  German 
Telessa.  Qf  Lower  Saxouy,  with  square-cut  broad  features, 
which,  however,  bore  the  stamp  of  very  considerable  strength 
of  will. 

Telessa  and  his  suite  crowded  in  front  of  my  tent,  while  he 
examined  me  Avith  unfeigned  astonishment,  but  with  a  certain 
reserve  that  spoke  of  tact. 

"Peace  be  with  you,"  was  my  greeting  to  him.  "I rejoice 
to  be  in  Telessa's  country.  I  have  heard  of  you  already  in 
Kawirondo,  and  have  come  here  to  make  your  acquaintance 
and  receive  from  you  information  about  the  lands  to  the  west." 

"Let  the  Msurgu  (white  man)  ask  what  he  desires  to 
know." 


AN  INTERVIEW  WITH  TELESSA.  337 

"  I  wish  to  know  whether  you  have  any  acquaintance  with 
the  country  to  the  west.  Do  you  know  Unjoro  and  its  king 
Kaba  Rega  P  " 

"  The  Wanjoro  I  know,  but  Kaba  Rega  I  do  not  know." 

"  Do  you  know  the  great  river  in  the  west,  the  Nile,  which 
the  people  here  call  Kyira  ?" 

"  I  know  the  Kyira  well.  The  children  of  my  concerning 
people  often  travel  thither."  "''^"'• 

"  And  how  many  days'  journey  is  it  from  here  to  Kyira  ?  " 

"  Five  days.  In  how  many  days  have  you  come  here  from 
Kwa  Sundu  ?  " 

"  In  three  days." 

"Then  you  have  still  five  da}rs'  journey  to  reach  the 
Nile." 

"  And  how  far  is  it  to  the  Wanjoro  ?  " 

"To  the  Wanjoro  you  will  come  in  four  days  from  here." 

"Have  you  any  news  of  white  men  who  live  in  Wanjoro  ?  '' 

"  Oh,  yes,  I  have  news  of  that  kind.     Two  great  white  men 
live  there,  who  possess  many  soldiers  and  great  houses. 
One  of  my  people  has  been  for  a   long  time  in  the  p  wan- 
service  of  the  white  men."  ■'"°' 

"Are  the  soldiers  of  these  white  men  Turki,  or  what  kind 
of  men  are  they  P  " 

"  I  think  they  are  Turki.  But  my  man  will  be  able  to  tell 
you  all  this  better  than  I." 

"  Is  this  man  to  be  found  here  in  Kwa  Telessa  ?  " 

"  He  lives  not  far  from  here." 

"  Then  send  to  him,  and  bid  him  come,  and  let  him  know 
that   I   have   rich   presents   for   him.     This  evening,  ^^^  ^^_ 
when  the  sun  sinks  in  the  west,  come  back  with  him,  quiry  ad- 
a.nd  then  we  will  hold  a  further  Shauri  concerning  the  "'""'^'^^  ' 
business." 

I  was  determined  to  tarry  the  next  day  in  Telessa,  to 
collect  all  the  information  which  was  to  be  had  in  the  place. 
Although  I  was  not  inclined  to  put  faith  in  the  signs  which 
.seemed  to  open  out  before  me,  yet  it  was  evident  that  before  I 
went  further  I  must,  with  especial  vigilance,  study  my  position 


338  ^Y/:;ir  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

again  and  again  with  regard  to  the  circumstances  of  the  case, 
that  I  might  not  lead  my  column  hlindly  to  destruction. 

In  the  evening  Telessa  returned,  and  we  began  by  ex- 
second  changing  the  usual  gifts  in  sign  of  friendship.  He 
m  Mview  ijj.Q^gj^^  cattle,  eggs,  and  milk,  honey,  and  bananas, 
Telessa.  while  I  presented  him  with  bright  coloured  stuffs,  a 
little  powder,  and  some  beads. 

"  Well,  have  you  brought  the  man  with  you  who  was  in  the 
service  of  the  white  men  at  Unjoro  ?  " 

"  I  have  sent  to  him,  but  he  will  not  be  able  to  be  here  till 
to-morrow  morning." 

"  So  you  know  for  certain  that  there  are  white  men  living 
in  Unjoro  ?  " 

"  I  am  as  sure  of  it,  as  I  am  of  the  fact  that  we  are  here 
together." 

"  And  do  you  also  know  the  place  where  they  live  ?  " 

"Yes,  I  know  it  well.  They  have  a  large  house,  and 
manjf,  many  people." 

"  Then  I  daresay  you  will  be  willing  to  forward  a  letter 
Concern-  ^^°°^  "^^  *°  t\ie&e  white  men,  if  I  pay  your  messengers, 
ing  the       and  give  you  some  more  presents  for  yourself  ?  " 

white  men.  .  ^  •' 

"I  Will  very  gladly  do  that,  and  you  can  wait 
here  for  the  answer,  to  see  whether  I  speak  the  truth,  or  am 
lying." 

"  And  in  how  many  days  do  you  think  the  messengers  can 
be  back  here  ?  " 

"In  three  days  they  can  be  here  again  from  the  white 
man." 

"  Well,  then,  I  will  tell  5^ou  what.  Give  me  messengers 
who  can  carry  my  letters  in  advance,  and  give  me  guides  who^ 
Proposal  '^^^^^  conduct  me,  by  the  same  road,  after  them.  Then 
Peters  *^*^  messengers,  in  returning,  will  meet  me  on  the  way, 
so  that  I  can  receive  their  news  from  them  on  my 
journey.  If  the  white  man  is  so  near,  I  shall  soon  be  back 
here  with  you,  and  then  we  will  exchange  more  presents  with 
each  other.  You  shall  have  my  flag,  and  we  will  make  a  last- 
ing friendship." 


QUESTION  OF  EMIN'S    WHEREABOUTS.  33» 

"  I  will  gladly  take  }-our  flag,  for  I  know  that  you  have 
beaten  the  Massais.  Two  years  ago  the  Massais  came  as  far 
as  here,  and  drove  away  my  cattle." 

"  Good ;  then,  to-morrow,  do  what  I  have  commissioned 
you  to  do." 

A  lively  snapping  of  fingers,  from  the  assembled  people,, 
showed  with  what  satisfaction  the  conclusion  of  our  agreement 
was  received  by  the  multitude. 

On  the  following  morning,  at  seven  o'clock,  there  was. 
another  great  assembly  of  the  people.  The  mysterious  servant 
of  the  white  men    of  Unioro   was    certainly  not    yet  „ , 

<*  J  J        Telessa's 

there  ;  but  Telessa  had  brought  two  messengers  who,  two  mes- 
he  said,  knew  the  way  thoroughly,  and  would  carry  ^^'^^^'^^^ 
my  letters  forward.  I  drew  up  two  documents,  therefore,  in 
presence  of  the  large  circle  of  people,  and  these  were  de- 
spatched in  the  course  of  the  same  morning.  I  was  not  at 
all  inclined  to  apply  to  Emin  Pasha  the  news  which  Telessa. 
brought ;  nevertheless  there  might  be  some  trace  given  in  this 
direction. 

When  Emin  Pasha  received  news  of  Dr.  Fischer's  advance,, 
as  he  himself  relates,  he  pushed  forward  his  troops  to  g^^-g^ 
Mruli.  Might  he  not  now,  after  Stanley's  departure,  tures  about 
have  heard  rumours  of  the  approach  of  East  African 
Relief  Expeditions,  and  might  he  not  be  working  to  establish 
communication  with  them  in  that  direction  by  means  of 
advanced  posts  .P 

Accordingly,  since  I  could  not  take  for  granted  that  Emin 
Pasha  himself  was  to  be  found  here  in  the  east,  but  at  most 
could  only  conjecture  that  Casati,  or  some  Egyptian  officers, 
might  be  there,  I  wrote  the  following  letter  in  English  and  in 
French :  — 

"  February  1th,  1890. 

"  To  any  gentleman,  or  any  official  of  His  Excellency 
Dr.  Emin  Pasha,  who  is  stationed  in  Unjoro. 
"  On  my  arrival  yesterday  in  Kwa  Telessa,  on  my  way  ta 
His  Excellency  Dr.  Emin  Pasha,  I  received  the  news  that  a 


340  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

European  was  in  East  Unjoro.  If  such  is  the  case  I  shall  be 
ixperi-  much  obliged  for  some  brief  particulars.  I  shall 
Telter\t  despatch  this  letter  to-da}^  and  follow  on  the  same 
Dr.  Peters.  j^-Qg^^j  ^y^^]^  ^y  gmall  expedition  to-morrow.  An  answer 
Avill  find  me  on  the  route  by  which  this  letter  has  come. 
"  This  answer  will  greatly  oblige, 

"  De.  Carl  Peters." 

When  this  letter  had  been  sent  off,  I  dismissed  my  guides 
from  Kwa  Sundu,  by  whom  I  sent  the  news  of  the  incidents  of 
our  advance,  to  the  gentlemen  of  the  English  expedition,  and 
to  whom  also  I  gave  a  letter  for  Messrs.  Hansing  &  Co.,  in 
Zanzibar. 

In  the  course  of  the  day,  my  people  were  again  disquieted 
_.     .       by  news  of  dangers  of  war  in  the  west.     The  Walandu, 

Iisquiet-         ./  o  7 

ingru-  it  was  Said,  were  makmg  the  passage  towards  the 
north-west  impossible. 

My  people  seemed  to  have  changed  altogether.  They  were 
thoroughly  infected  by  the  apprehensions  that  reigned  in  the 
ranks  of  the  English  expedition.  It  was  as  though  the  band- 
ages had  been  suddenly  torn  away  from  their  eyes,  and  they 
now  saw  on  the  edge  of  what  a  precipice  they  were  walking  in 
my  company. 

They  forgot  that  the  path,  up  to  this  time,  had  not  been 
exactly  a  safe  one.  To  guard  against  further  desertions,  I  called 
Tendency  them  together  in  the  evening,  took  their  guns  from 
to  desertion.^jjgjjj^  and  once  again  put  the  suspicious  characters 
among  them  in  chains. 

In  spite  of  this  I  was  informed,  on  the  following  morning, 
that  one  of  them  had  run  back  to  Kawirondo. 

On  the  following  morning  I  had,  first  of  all,  the  usual  ex- 
planation with  Telessa,  who  had  no  intention  of  fulfilling  his 
promise  of  furnishing  me  with  guides,  but  who  was  induced  to 
March  perform  his  duty  by  the  usual  arguments.  Then  we 
towards  began  our  march  westward,  along  a  chain  of  heights 
M'hich  rose  before  us,  lying  in  a  north  to  south  direc- 
tion, exactly  under  the  thirty-fourth  degree  of  east  longitude  as 


MARCH  TO   THE   WISSMANN  HILLS;— A   STRANGER.      341 

far  as  one  degree  north  of  the  lake.  I  ordered  the  guides  to  lead 
us  to  the  northern  end  of  this  chain  of  mountains ;  but  they 
explained  that  it  could  not  be  done,  for  fighting  was  going  on 
there ;  we  should  all  be  killed  if  we  marched  that  way.  It 
was  a  fact  that,  during  our  march,  we  had  repeatedly  heard  the 
noise  of  fighting  to  the  north  of  us  ;  and  in  consideration  for  the 
demoralised  state  of  my  people,  I  consented  to  cross  the  hills  in 
front  of  us,  a  little  below  the  northern  end.  These  hills,  which 
formed  the  boundary  of  Usoga  proper  in  the  east,  I  The  "wiss- 
have  named  "  Wissmann  Hills."  Where  they  are  ap-  ™annHuis." 
proached  from  the  east  they  present  a  precipitous  and  steep 
aspect,  but  on  nearing  them,  it  is  found  that  the  ascent  is  a 
very  easy  one.  In  reality  it  is  accomplished  almost  imper- 
ceptibly, through  groves  of  bananas  and  other  plantations. 

The  next  day  was  an  unpleasant  one  for  me,  for  my  people 
repeatedly  pressed  me  to  stay  in  Kwa  Telessa  until  the  answer 
came  to  the  letters  I  had  sent  forward  the  day  before  to  Emin 
Pasha,  before  travelling  further  into  a  region  of  uncertainty.  I 
concluded  the  matter  by  decidedly  forbidding  any  interference 
with  my  leadership  of  the  expedition ;  and  so  we  went  on,  past 
crowds  of  people,  who  also  warned  us  against  going  further 
towards  the  Wissmann  Hills.  When  we  had  nearly  reached 
the  foot  of  these  hills,  Herr  von  Tiedemann  suddenly  gave  the 
trumpet  signal  to  halt.  I  was  eager  to  know  what  could  have 
happened,  when  all  at  once  I  saw  a  handsomely-dressed  ^ 
youne  man,  with  a   small   suite,  likewise  of  stately  terious 

•  111  rni       visitor. 

appearance,  hastening  to  me  along  the  column.  Ine 
young  man  was  dressed  in  a  dark  Arab  kaftan,  embroidered  with 
gold,  and  wore  a  red  turban.  When  he  came  up  to  me  he  fell 
on  the  ground  before  me  and  kissed  my  feet.  We  were  unable 
to  make  out  in  the  least  who  he  was,  or  what  he  wanted ;  but  he 
immediately  placed  himself  at  the  head  of  my  train,  drew  out  a 
flute,  and  led  the  way,  playing  at  the  same  time,  sometimes  in 
pathetic,  sometimes  in  strange,  quaint,  short  melodies,  which 
his  followers  accompanied  with  rhythmical,  peculiar  kind  of 
singing.  In  this  way  we  went  on  through  very  bare  country, 
along  Minding  paths,  in  a  south-easterly  direction.     There  was 


342  NEW  LIGHT  OX  DARK  AFRICA. 

something  mysterious  in  the  whole  occurrence.  The  young 
stranger  seemed  to  me  like  the  prince  in  a  fairy  tale,  who  had 
come  to  lead  us  to  his  castle,  and  my  fancy  was  excited  to 
penetrate  the  secret  of  his  appearance.  The  idea  began  sud- 
denly to  awake  in  me  that  this  might  have  some  connection 
with  the  object  of  my  expedition,  and  that  some  decided  explana- 
tions lay  before  me  in  this  direction. 

When  we  reached  the  crest  of  the  Wissmann  Hills  the  whole 
character  of  the  landscape  changed  on  a  sudden,  as  in  a  fairy 
tale.  Emerging  from  the  steppe,  which  for  three  hours  had 
A.  region  surrounded  us,  we  at  once  passed  into  a  fruitful,  culti- 
cf  plenty,  y^ted  district.  The  way  led  through  bananas,  and  yet 
again  through  bananas ;  and  this  day  we  noticed,  for  the  first 
time,  the  grey  parrot.  My  people  feasted  to  their  hearts'  con- 
tent on  the  rich  treasures  ;  and  again,  as  in  a  fairy  tale,  we 
suddenly  found  everything  at  our  disposal.  The  people  came 
pouring  out  of  the  houses,  offering  us  fat  quails  in  little  baskets, 
and  fatted  fowls,  grain,  and  fruits.  Banana  wine  was  brought 
out  in  great  bowls  for  the  drinking  of  healths,  and  on  all  sides 
were  heard  the  lively  notes  of  the  flute,  or  the  beating  of  the 
fiery  drum.  Every  one  bowed  low  before  my  mysterious  guide, 
and  I  could  at  once  perceive  that  he  was  a  man  in  authority  in 
these  parts. 

At  the  western  foot  of  the  Wissmann  Hills  I  pitched  my 
camp  and  made  my  toilette,  during  which  my  young  unknown 
friend  favoured  me  with  another  concert  on  the  flute,  when 
suddenly  two  shots  resounded  from  the  south,  and  two  new 
figures  appeared  on  the  scene.  These  were  the  Waganda  Marco 
Marco  and  and  his  Companion  Talabanga  ;  and  now  the  veil  of 
Taiabanga.  mystery,  which  had  given  a  character  of  excitement  to 
our  encampment,  was  suddenly  to  be  dropped.  Marco  was  a 
man  with  small  features,  indicative  of  unusual  intelligence. 
Like  his  companion  Talabanga,  he  was  a  Roman  Catholic  Chris- 
tian, and  both  of  them  spoke  Suahili.  They  had  no  sooner 
taken  their  seats  on  the  ground  before  Herr  von  Tiedemann  and 
m)'self,  than  I  demanded  their  names  and  station.  When  they 
had  answered  me  on  this  point,  I  asked, — 


PARTICULARS   CONCERNING  MUANGA.  343 

"  In  what  country  are  we  here  P  " 

"  We  are  here  in  the  territory  of  Muanga,  the  Mfalme  of 
Uganda,  in  Usoga.  He  yonder  "  (pointing  to  my  friend  of  the 
morning)  "is  Mlamba,  son  of  the  Sultan  Wachore,  whose 
country,  Akola,  lies  to  the  north  of  us,  and  can  be  reached  in 
one  day." 

"  What  are  you  doing  here  in  Usoga  ?  " 

"  Muanga,  King  of  Uganda,  has  sent  us  to  the  English  in 
Kwa  Sundu,  in  Kawirondo,  to  entreat  them  to  give  help  to  the 
Christians ;    but   the    English    are    afraid,    they  have  ^ 

'  ^  'J  The  envoys' 

not  come.     Now  we   have  received  intelligence  that  account  of 
Badutchi  are  approaching  who  have  beaten  the  Massais, 
and  that  is  why  we  have  waited  for  you  here.     The  letters  which 
you  sent  yesterday  from  Kwa  Telessa  arrived  here  in  the  night. 
I  have  sent  them  on  to  Muanga." 

"  Where  is  Muanga  now  P  " 

"  Muanga  is  on  Balingogwe,  an  island  on  the  Lake  Victoria 
Nyanza.  With  him  there  are  five  white  men.  Write  to  him 
that  you  have  arrived  in  Usoga,  his  country,  as  is  the  custom 
with  the  Waganda.  Muanga  will  be  glad  if  you  will  come  to 
him." 

"I  shall  be  glad  to  visit  Muanga,  and  glad  to  help  my 
Christian  brethren  in  Uganda.  But  to  be  able  to  do  this,  I 
must  first  of  all  bring  up  more  assistance,  and  that  is  Dr.  Peters 's 
why  I  am  now  marching  direct  to  Unjoro  to  the  chief  fo'vuit 
of  the  Turki,  who  is  a  German,  and  a  brother  of  mine.  tr^Jo". 
I  will  take  counsel  with  him,  and  he  shall  give  me  more  men, 
with  whom  I  will  then  come  to  the  aid  of  the  Christians  in 
Uganda." 

"  You  want  to  go  to  Unjoro  P  But  do  you  not  know 
that  Kaba  Rega  is  the  enemy  of  the  Europeans,  and  that  he 
will  make  war  against  you  ?  " 

"Yes,  but  with  the  help  of  Emin  Pasha  I Jhink?I  shall  be 
in  a  position  to  get  the  better  of  Kaba  Rega." 

"  Emin  Pasha  P  Who  is  Emin  Pasha  ?  There  are  no  more 
white  men  left  in  Unjoro.  They  are  all  gone  away  with 
Stanley." 


344  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

"  You  are  mistaken,"  I  said ;  "  not  all  the  white  men  of 
Unjoro  are  gone  away  with  Stanley.  The  chief  of  them,  Emin 
ftnestion  of  Pasha,  has  stayed  behind.  Do  you  not  know  Emin 
S-       P^^ha  ?  " 

abouts.  "  I  speak  the  truth.     All  the  white  men  are  gone 

away,  and  there  is  not  a  white  man  left  in  Unjoro  (Wiote 
wametoka  na  hapana  wasungu  Katika  Unjolo).  Send  letters, 
and  enquire  of  the  white  men  who  are  with  Muanga.  If  I  am 
telling  you  a  lie,  take  my  life." 

"But  how  do  you  know  this.P  " 

"  How  should  I  not  know  it  P  Have  I  not  myself  been  with 
Stanley  in  Busagalla  (Ankore),  to  beg  him  to  give  help  to  the 
Christians  of  Uganda  ? 

"  In  his  camp  I  have  seen  not  only  his  officers,  but 
also  Amdallah  and  Amdallah's  daughter,  Emin's  white  man, 
Stanley's  ^^^  besides  these  many,  many  Turkis.  Some  time 
camp.  a,go  Amdallah  sent  to  Uganda  to  buy  stuffs  from  us ; 
but  the  people  were  set  upon  and  plundered  by  the  Wanjoro,  and 
he  never  received  the  stuffs.  That  is  why  he  and  all  his  people, 
whom  I  saw  with  Stanley,  were  clothed  in  skins.  I  have  seen 
them  all ;  there  is  no  white  man  left  in  Unjoro." 

"  You  exhorted  Stanley  to  bring  help  to  Muanga  ?  Was  not 
Stanley  willing  to  do  this,  then  ?  " 

"  No ;  he  said  he  must  go  to  the  coast.  The  English  are 
afraid,  and  that  is  why  they  do  not  come  to  Uganda.     But,  for 

Pro  osai  to  J'*^^^  P^^*'  ^°  ^^^  Write  to  Muauga  before  you  go  farther 
write  to  towards  Unjoro.  "Write  to  your  white  brothers  who  are 
uanga.  ^^.^^^  ^^^  king,  and  they  will  confirm  to  you  what  I  have 
said.  We  will  march  together  to  Wachore's  capital,  and  you 
can  wait  there  till  the  answer  comes.  If  there  is  a  white  man 
left  in  Unjoro,  you  can  go  there.  If,  however,  all  the  white  men 
are  gone  from  Unjoro,  then  come  and  help  the  Christians  in 
Uganda,  and  then,  if  you  will,  we  can  all  go  together  against  the 
Wanjoro  afterwards." 

"  When  can  I  have  the  answer  from  Muanga  ?  " 

"  In  six  or  seven  days." 

"  Good  ;  then  I  will  send  letters  to  Bulingogwe.     Now  go  ;  I 


STANLEY  AND   THE   WAG  AND  A.  345 

will  take  into  consideration  what  you  have  said  besides,  and  give 
you  my  answer  this  afternoon." 

As  to  this  communication  of  Marco's,  I  have  to  remark,  that 
Stanley's  account  of  the  request  of  the  Waganda  to  send  them 
help,  appears  calculated  to  weaken  the  importance  of  the  whole 
affair.  At  all  events,  what  he  says  about  it  in  his  book  (vol.  ii., 
pp.  333-37)  does  not  agree  with  what  I  heard  confirmed  from 
another  quarter  in  Uganda.  Stanley  says  nothing  at  all  about 
King  Muanga's  having  put  himself  in  communication  with  him  ; 
and  yet  already,  on  February  13th,  Pere  Denoit  wrote  to  me  as 
follows  from  Bulingogwe  : — 

"  Quant  a  Emin  Pascha,  il  doit  etre  arrive  en  ce  moment 
k  Zanzibar,  ou  meme  en  Europe.     II  etait  au  sud  du  ^.^^ 
Nyanza  vers  la  fin  d'Aout.     Ilyetait  arrive   en  com-  DenoU's 

letter 

pagnie  de  Stanley  par  la  route  de  Ounyoro,  Ousagara, 
Oucaragwe,  etc,  sans  toucher  a  I'Ouganda,  quoique  les  Chretiens 
de  ce  pays  lappelassent  k  leur  secours." 

Thus  Pere  Denoit  says  here,  then,  that  the  Christians  of 
Uganda  had  appealed  to  Stanley  for  help  ;  while  Stanley  himself 
represents  the  case  as  if  only  the, Christians  of  Ankore  Stanley's 
had  been  to  him.  As  Muanga  himself  told  me  after-  "arch  to" 
wards,  he  had  sent  Marco  first  to  Stanley,  with  a  formal  irganda. 
petition  for  assistance,  exactly  as  he  sent  him  afterwards  to  the 
English  in  Kawirondo.  Subsequently,  Emin  Pasha  gave  me  some 
exceedingly  interesting  details  about  the  story  of  the  refusal  of 
this  petition  on  the  part  of  Stanley.  From  what  I  was  told, 
Emin  Pasha  pressed  Stanley  to  grant  the  Waganda  what  they 
wished,  but  Stanley  immediately  became  downright  angry  about 
it.  "  We  are  much  too  weak,"  he  declared  repeatedly.  "  You  do 
not  know  Uganda,  if  you  think  that  with  our  force  "  (which,  by 
the  way,  amounted  to  1,000  men)  "  we  could  go  to  Uganda." 
Thereupon  Emin  Pasha  offered  to  undertake  the  help  of  the 
Waganda  Christians  by  himself  with  his  own  people.  Stanley 
flared  up  at  this,  declaring  the  Pasha  had  no  longer  a  right  to 
any  such  independent  action ;  he  would  have  him  put  under  super- 
vision if  he  tried  to  carry  out  any  such  plan.  He,  Stanley,  was 
responsible  for  the  safe  return  of  the  Pasha  and  his  people  to  the 


346  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

coast,  and  without  the  command  of  the  Queen  of  England  he 
did  not  choose  to  mix  himself  up  with  the  affairs  of  Uganda. 

This  information,  which  Stanley  does  not  give  in  his  account, 
certainly  throws  a  substantially  new  light  on  the  whole  of  the 
New  light  proceedings.  It  shows  that  Stanley  did  not  feel  himself 
tan™^""^'  strong  enough  to  go  to  Uganda,  and  he  accordingly 
events.  omitted  this  remarkable  opportunity  of  drawing  this 
country  into  the  interests  of  his  own  nation.  It  is  the  same 
blunder  which  Stanley,  in  my  opinion,  repeatedly  committed, 
and  which  gives  the  whole  undertaking  such  a  contradictory, 
and,  to  outsiders,  such  an  almost  incomprehensible  character,  to 
which  I  shall  on  occasion  again  refer. 

Meanwhile  I  wrote  letters  to  King  Muanga  in  Kiswahili,  to 
Monseigneur  Leon  Livinhac  in  French,  and  to  Messrs.  Gordon 
and  Walter  in  English.  As  the  contents  of  the  three  letters 
were  identical,  I  extract  the  following  from  the  translation  of 
the  letter  to  Livinhac  : — 

"  MoNSEiGNEUK, — I  have  the  honour  to  inform  you  that  with 
a  small  expedition  I  have  arrived  in  the  land  of  the  Sultan 
Wachore.  When  I  crossed  over  the  boundary  of  this  land  your 
servant  Marco  came  to  me,  and  told  me  that  the  Europeans 
letter  to  whom  I  supposcd  to  be  in  Unjoro  were  in  Uganda,  and 
neur^Lfou  that  he  had  sent  my  letters  for  them  to  you.  Besides 
Livmhac.  ^jjjg^  jjg  gg^yg  jj^g  important  information  concerning  the 
departure  of  Emin  Pasha  with  Stanley  for  Europe.  If  this  news 
is  true,  my  expedition  for  Emin  Pasha  is  obviously  at  an  end. 

"  Marco  tells  me  that  King  Muanga  would  be  much  gratified 
if  we  would  come  into  his  land.  Monseigneur  would  oblige  me 
very  much  by  a  brief  account  of  the  occurrences  in  the  Equa- 
torial Provinces,  and  of  the  reported  departure  of  Emin  Pasha. 
If  this  news  is  confirmed,  and  King  Muanga  invites  me,  I  am 
prepared  to  march  to  Uganda. 

"  In  case  the  news  of  the  departure  of  Emin  Pasha  is  not 
confirmed,  and  you,  meanwhile,  send  me  word  that  the  route 
through  Unjoro  is  not  practicable,  I  shall  still  be  prepared  to 
take  my  route  through  Uganda." 


COMMISSION  ENTRUSTED   TO  MARCO.  347 

In  my  letters  to  Muanga  and  the  Englishmen  I  added  to 
this,  that  I  was  ready  to  place  my  small  force  at  the  offer  to 
service  of  civilisation   and   Christianity,   in   case  the  f^lt^^ 
king  requested  me  to  do  so.  English. 

In  the  afternoon  I  sent  for  Marco  again,  delivered  to  him 
these  letters,  which  were  forwarded  on  the  morrow  to  Uganda, 
and  imparted  to  him  my  decision  in  the  following  manner : — 

"  I  have  given  you  these  letters,  which  you  are  to  send  to 
Uganda.    Meanwhile  I  shall  continue  my  march  towards  Unjoro, 
as  far  as  the  north-west  boundary  of  Wachore's  land  ;  Decision 
so  that  in  case  I  receive  no  satisfactory  answer  to  my  oated^o^" 
enquiry   in   Uganda   I   may   be   able   to   resume   my  ^^^^°- 
advance,  either  on  this  side  of  the  Nile,  or  through  Unjoro 
direct.     If  it  turns  out  that  you  have  spoken  the  truth,  and  if, 
as  I  do  not  yet  believe,  Emin  Pasha  has  gone  away  from  the 
territory   of  the  Turki,  I  shall  be  ready  to  go  to  Uganda  to 
make  war  against  Karema  and  the  Arabs,  and  to  bring  back  the 
Christians,  my  brethren,  to  Uganda.    Therefore,  send  messengers 
now  to  Wachore,  and  inform  him  that  I  shall  come  into  his  land 
to-morrow,  and  into  his  capital  on  the  next  day,  and  that  I  have 
already  put  myself  in  friendly  communication  with  Muanga," 

A  loud  joyful  clapping  of  hands  was  the  answer  to  this 
announcement,  and  my  commands  were  immediately  , 

rrn  T     1  1        •        Approval 

put  into  execution.  The  more  I  thought  over  the  m-  by  the 
formation  which  Marco  had  brought,  the  more  I  was 
gradually  inclined  to  disbelieve  its  accuracy.  I  conjectured 
rather  that  Amdallah  might  be  one  of  the  Egyptian  officers  of 
Emin  Pasha,  who  had,  perhaps,  been  put  in  command  of  a  troop 
of  Egyptian  soldiers  under  Stanley.  I  thought  this  all  the 
more  when,  in  answer  to  my  question,  "  Who  is  the  chief  of 
the  whole  expedition,  Stamuley  or  Amdallah  ?  "  Marco  replied, 
"Stamuley."  This  appeared  to  me  scarcely  compatible  with 
M'hat  I  then  imagined  to  be  Emin's  position. 

A  cheerful  activity  was  now  displayed  in  my  camp.     The 
supply  of  meat  and  drink  was  abundant,  and  the  M'hole  a  festive 
evening  the  Wasoga  ran  about  through  the  camp  Ayith  ^"^^^s- 
great  torches,  to  light  up  the  drinking,  dancing,  and  playing. 


348  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

On  the  next  day  we  marched  onward  in  a  northerly  direc- 
The  march  tion,  keeping  the  Wissmann  Hills  always  to  the  right 
resumed,  j^aiid.  We  met  large  troops  of  fantastic-looking  Wasoga 
warriors,  who  carried  tasteful  shields  of  twisted  wood,  orna- 
mented at  the  sides  with  monkeys'  and  other  skins.  They  were 
travelling  eastward  to  the  war  against  the  Walandu. 

On  this  day  another  porter  ran  away  from  me.  I  did  not 
have  him  pursued,  since  the  fate  of  the  expedition,  now  depended 
on  quite  other  conditions.  We  went  forward  through  bananas 
and  richly-cultivated  land,  until,  at  eleven  o'clock;,  we  again 
pitched  our  camp  in  a  splendid  banana  plantation. ,,  .; 

Our  life  in  Usoga  was  particularly  pleasant.  We  had  guides 
for  the  march,  so  that  I  myself  was  able  to  walk  along 
life  in  in  quiet  contemplation.  When  we  arrived  at  any  place 
^°^^'  the  natives  at  once  had  to  turn  out  of  their  houses,  in 
which  my  people  were  installed,  and  plenty  of  food  was  at  once 
brought,  without  any  one  thinking  of  demanding  that  we  should 
pay  for  it. 

A  farther  march  brought  us  southward  to  the  capital  of 
Wachore,  and  now,  according  to  the  statement  of  the  natives,  we 
had  only  three  marches,  or  about  six  expedition  marches,  to 
bring  us  to  the  Lake  Kioga,  in  the  Nile.  From  that  place  I 
could  have  easily  established  a  communication  with  Emin 
Pasha,  supposing  that  he  was  in  his  old  stations.  I  had  im- 
„         .     mediate  communication  by  the  river  with  his  stations 

Communica-  ^  ^^ 

tion  with     Kodyi  and  Fauvera.     Amid  extraordinary  difficulties 

the  stations.         ,^  . 

and  dangers  we  had  arrived  as  lar  as  the  borders  oi  the 
Equatorial  Province  from  the  east.  The  question  was  now, 
whether  or  not  fortune,  on  her  side,  would  vouchsafe  us  the 
reward  of  so  much  toil  and  struggle  ? 

I  had  again  repeatedly  questioned  Marco  ;  but  his  state- 
ments contradicted  each  other  here  and  there,  and  so  I 
encouraged  myself  to  hope  afresh  that  perhaps  Emin  was,  after 
all,  at  Wadelai,  and  that  it  would  be  vouchsafed  to  me  not  only 
to  reach  the  goal,  but  to  eifect  the  purpose  of  the  German 
Relief  Expedition. 

If  I  should  meet  Emin  in  Wadelai,  I  would  undertake  from 


TERRITORY  OF   USOQA  ;—AKOLA.  34'J 

thence  to  put  myself  in  communication  with  Muanga,  and  by  a 
united  advance  to  overthrow  Unioro,  and  so  force  a  free 

I"  i  ,1       -TT-  .      n.T  Further  in- 

passage  tor  our  countryman  across  the  Victoria  Nyanza  tentions  of 
to  the  German  East  African  coast,  from  whence  assist-  ^^'  '^**^'^°' 
ance  could  be  speedily  obtained  for  him.  If  this  were  accom- 
plished, we  could  afterwards,  when  I  had  been  able  to  learn 
particulars  on  the  spot,  examine  the  Mahdi  problem  somewhat 
closer,  to  ascertain  whether  the  attempt  at  least  could  not  be 
undertaken  to  put  into  execution  the  plans,  which  the  imagin- 
ation of  Europe  had  devised  concerning  the  movements  of  the 
"  White  Pasha  "  in  the  summer  of  1888. 

Meanwhile  I  regarded  the  land  and  people  of  Usoga  with  a 
certain  increase  of  interest.  This  country  had  been  represented 
on  the  map  until  then  as  merely  a  white  patch.  Before  GeograpM- 
we  came  there,  no  intelligence  of  any  sort  concerning  farsT/'"™" 
it  had  been  brought  to  Europe  by  whites  ;  and  yet  it  is  ^^°s^- 
well  worth  while  to  bring  the  knowledge  of  Usoga  to  the  white 
world.  For  this  same  country  is  so  fertile,  and  possesses  such  a 
high  degree  of  cultivation,  that  it  is  an  agreeable  surprise  for  any 
one  marching  here  from  the  east ;  and  there  is  no  question  that 
the  land  promises  to  be  of  great  importance  in  the  future 
development  of  the  dark  continent. 

Akola  forms  a  portion  of  the  general  territory  of  Usoga,  in 
which  it  takes  the  leading  position,  through  the  power  and 
intelligence  of  its  sultan,  Wachore.  Usoga  appears  to  extend 
l^-"  northward  from  the  lake.  Its  western  boundary  is  formed 
by  the  Nile,  which  is  here  called  Kiyira,  or  Nyiro.  In  the  east, 
and  again  to  the  north-west,  the  Wissmann  Hills  form  a  frontier 
against  the  Walukuma  and  the  Walundu.  This  whole  scenery  of 
little  territory,  seen  from  the  top  of  a  hill,  resembles  a  ^^°^'- 
billowy  sea,  the  crests  of  whose  waves  are  scattered  by  the  wind. 
The  tops  of  the  hills  are  mostly  crowned  by  rocks  or  stones. 
The  journey  over  the  rising  ground  can  be  made  without  any 
difficulty,  generally  lying  through  banana  groves.  The  whole 
hill  country  is  called  in  Usoga  Namakokowa  Wachore.  The 
maximum  difference  of  level  between  the  mountain  and 
the   valley,   which    stretch   out   lengthways    in    an    irregular 


350  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

direction,  maj'  be  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  to  three  hundred 
feet. 

Not  until  the  western  part  of  Usoga  is  approached  do 
decided  mountain  chains  appear,  which  stretch  out  from  south- 
south-west  to  north-north-east.  They  cut  oif  the  valley  of  the 
Nile  on  the  east.  They  have  a  breadth  of  some  twelve  miles, 
The  hilly  ^"^^  exhibit  heights  of  about  5,500  feet.  Towards  the 
region.  north  they  lose  themselves  in  immeasurable  distance. 
The  most  southerly,  and,  as  it  appeared  to  me,  the  most  impor- 
tant mountain  in  these  chains  which  rises  over  the  Nile,  is 
called  Ndira  Wera  (Wera  means  white.  Whether  Ndira  again 
is  connected  with  Kiyira  or  Nyiro,  or  whether  it  simply  means 
"way,"  I  was  not  able  to  discover).  I  named  these  border 
chains  "The  Reichart  Ranges." 

I  encamped  under  the  Ndira  Wera  on  February  1 7th,  exactly 
on  the  spot  where  Bishop  Hannington  and  his  column  were 
Eeiics  of  murdered  five  and  a  half  years  ago.  The  camping- 
nj^lt^^g^'^'ground  is  some  distance  to  the  north-eastward  of 
party.  Ukassa,  and  we  found  still  a  number  of  skulls  and 
bones  there.  Here,  on  the  following  day,  I  visited  the  N3'anza 
for  the  first  time,  having  had  a  view  the  day  previous  of  a  far- 
reaching  creek  belonging  to  it. 

Some  half-hour  s  journey  from  this  camping-place  there  is 
a  completely  enclosed  bay  of  about  two  square  miles  in  extent, 
out  of  which  three  long  narrow  creeks  extend  landwards.  This 
bay  is  connected  by  a  river-like  canal  with  the  Nj^anza,  and, 
j^g  indeed,  with    the  farther  end  of  the  Napoleon  Gulf. 

Mapoieoa  Fishermen's  huts,  picturesquely  scattered  about  in  the 
banana  fields,  surround  the  shore.  A  long  hilly  ridge, 
visible  on  both  sides  during  several  days'  march,  separates  this 
bay  from  the  Napoleon  Gulf  on  the  west,  and  lends  to  it  through- 
out the  character  of  a  large  lake.  I  do  not  know  if  Stanley,  on 
whose  camping-ground  we  slept  several  times,  ever  saw  this  bay. 
I  do  not  find  it  on  the  maps.  Since  it  is  a  noticeable  feature  in 
Arendt  Bay  ^^^  formation  of  this  part  of  Usoga,  I  have  given  it  a 
name,  and  I  have  called  it  "  Arendt  Bay,"  and  the  hilly 
ridge  which  closes  it  in  to  the  west  "  Schroeder"s  Mountain." 


THE  BANANA    MEAT  AND   DRINK. 


351 


On  February  ISth  we  at  last  encamped  on  Scliroeder's 
Monntain,  and  were  only  twelve  minutes  from  Napoleon  Gulf, 
which  I  l:)eheld  ibr  the  first  time  on  that  day. 

This  little  enclosed  country  of  Usoga,  which,  in  its  inland 
parts,  may  be  compared  to  Thuringia,  carries  on  chiefly  the  cul- 
tivation of  bananas  to  a  great  extent.     The  banana  is  „,   , 

■-  The  banana 

roasted,  baked,  boiled,  eaten  raw,  and,  above  all,  drunk  ;  as  food  and 
and  the  people  have,   moreover,  various  ways  of  pre- 
paring their  drinks.     The  muenge,  which  resend^les  lemonade, 


Mount  Schroeder  and  Aeendt  Bay. 


is  prepared  by  pressing  the  juice  out  of  the  ripe  fruit  without 
fermentation. 

Besides  this  there  was  a  strong,  bitter,  intoxicating  drink, 
which  the  natives  simply  call  pombe,  prepared  with  nitama  ; 
and  still  another  medium  beverage  called  mritfa,  in  which  the 
admixture  of  mtama  is  wanting.  The  Wasoga  drink  or  suck 
up  this  wine,  or  this  beer,  from  early  morning  till  late  at  night. 
As  early  as  midday  my  friends,  the  Sultans,  were,  as  a  rule, 
in   a  state  of  considerable  joviality.     Besides  these   variously 


352  .YETI'  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

prepared  bananas,  man}^  batatas  are  eaten,  and  also  various  kinds 
of  grain  and  pulse. 

The  countr_Y  is  likewise  rich  in  cattle,  sheep,  goats,  and  all 
sorts  of  poultry.  Besides  fowls,  they  eat  a  very  delicate  kind  of 
fat  quail,  which  were  brought  to  us  almost  daily  in  little  plaited 
baskets. 

Everywhere  we  found  the  Wasoga  an  amiable,  light-hearted 

people.     Among  them  the  beer-pot  is  never  empty,  and  day  and 

night  the  drum  and  flute  are  resounding.     With  regard  to  race, 

they  belong  altogether  to  the  Waganda  ;  a  foundation 

AppC&r&llCB  ,  11''  n  1  •• 

of  the  of  Bantu,  with  a  strong  addition  oi  north-east  immi- 
*="ea-  gj-a^tion^  iQ  which  I  shall  again  refer.  But  they  have 
softer  features,  and  are  undoubtedly  among  the  best-looking 
races  of  East  Central  Africa.  There  is,  in  the  expression  of 
their  eyes  and  the  softness  of  the  lines  of  their  faces,  something 
decidedly  feminine  ;  and  it  is  accordingly  the  female  portion  of 
the  population  that  attract  most  attention.  Their  dress,  as 
among  the  Waganda,  is  usually  of  red  bark-fibre  stuff,  which  is 
confined  to  the  waist  by  a  girdle,  and  covers  the  whole  body  ; 
but  various  cotton  fabrics  have  already  made  their  way  among 
them,  so  that  a  good  variety  is  noticed  in  their  costume.  For 
ornaments,  they  are  fond  of  pearls  and  rings,  of  which 
costume  and  latter  they  manufacture  some  very  tasteful  ones  them- 
selves in  ironwork.  Besides  this,  they  are  very  skilful  in 
twisted  wood- work  and  mat-making.  Indeed,  they  show  in  every 
department  of  such  manufacture  a  remarkable  degree  of  neat- 
ness and  taste.  The  same  advance  from  a  primitive  condition 
to  a  higher  level  of  culture  is  shown  in  their  style  of  arming 
themselves.  Bows  and  spears  seem  to  have  been  the  original 
Their  weapous  of  the  people,  with  a  shield  of  plaited  wood, 
•weapons,  fantastically  bedecked  with  skins.  Nowadays,  however, 
every  one  who  wishes  to  be  thought  of  any  account  endeavours 
to  procure  a  rifle  ;  and,  indeed,  among  the  men  of  higher  rank, 
the  original  muzzle-loader  is  already  thought  an  inferior  weapon, 
In  Usoga,  as  in  Uganda,  almost  every  make  of  weapon  may  be 
found  represented,  even  to  the  very  newest.  As  a  rule,  the  diffi- 
culty is  with  the  cartridges,  and  in  these  last  days  with  powder 


THE   WASOGA   AND   THEIR  SULTANS.  353 

and  bullet.  But  I  scarcely  think  that  it  will  he  possible  ever 
again  to  root  out  the  craving  for  these  articles.  These  tribes 
will  no  more  be  turned  back  to  an  uncivilised  kind  of  weapon 
than  will  the  Arabs. 

The  houses  are  like  great  bee-hives,  shaped  like  half  a 
globe,  or  else  built  with  ridges  and  gables.  The  interior  is 
strewn  with  hay  or  straw,  in  a  clean  and  comfortable  ^asoga 
manner.  Wherever  we  came  it  was  a  matter  of  course  ^^eiiings. 
for  the  inhabitants  at  once  to  vacate  their  houses,  to  make  room 
for  our  people. 

This  country  is  divided  politically  into  a  number  of  little 
sultanates,  of  which  the  most  important  is  Wachore,  in  Akola. 
Wachore  means,  strictly  speaking,  the  people  of  Akola, 
or  Achore,  which  is  the  same.  It  appears  that  every  and  their 
sultan  of  this  country  bears  the  name  of  Wachore,  ^°'"^^' 
which,  therefore,  would  seem  to  be  not  a  proper  name,  but  a 
title.  All  these  sultans  are  subordinate  to  the  mfalnie,  the 
King  of  Uganda,  to  whom  they  are  obliged  to  send  yearly  a 
strictly-calculated  tribute  in  ivory,  cattle,  slaves,  and  other 
articles.  I  believe  Wachore  would  gladly  have  availed  him- 
self of  the  disturbances  in  Uganda  at  that  time,  to  free  himself 
from  this  obligation,  if  only  he  had  had  powder  enough,  and 
could  have  relied  on  all  his  own  countrymen.  The  Waganda 
who  accompanied  me  were,  for  two  nights,  in  fear  of  an  attack 
by  him  in  Wachoreland ;  an  apprehension  which  formed  some- 
thing of  a  contradiction  to  their  former  contemptuous  treatment 
of  the  W^asoga.  But,  indeed,  Wachore  himself  was  unwilling, 
after  all,  to  engage  in  a  conflict  with  us,  who  had  concluded  a 
treaty  of  friendship  with  him.  In  short,  the  attack  did  not 
take  place  either  time,  and  it  is  to  be  supposed  Wachore  has 
let  the  opportunity  slip  for  ever. 

My  relations  with  Wachore  were,  from  the  first,  of  a  most 
cordial  nature.     I  reached  the  south  of  his  capital  on  February 
18th,  and  a  banana  plantation  belonging  to  the  Sultan  Friendly 
was  immediately  allotted  as  a  camping-ground  for  me  ^ith"''^ 
and  my  people.     The   Sultan   at  once  sent  me,  as  a  'Wachore. 
princely   gift,   two   fine   milch    cows,   with   their   calves,   and 

23 


3,34  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

indicated  his  fields  and  banana  groves  as  a  foraging  ground  for 
my  people.  As  a  return  present,  I  put  together  for  him  an  Indian 
silk  shawl,  a  handsome  turban,  a  cask  of  powder,  together  with  a 
breech-loader  and  a  dozen  cartridges,  calibre  twelve.  I  then  made 
\\\y  two  servants  put  on  their  smart,  gold-embroidered  liveries, 
and  despatched  the  whole  present  to  Wachore.  He,  meanwhile, 
had  set  out,  with  the  ladies  of  his  harem  and  a  numerous  suite, 
to  pay  us  a  ceremonial  visit.  My  messengers  met  him  on  the 
way,  and  he  had  already  adorned  himself  with  the  new  turban 
Avhen  he  entered  our  house,  about  three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon. 
His  Highness  was  in  a  somewhat  "  elevated "  condition. 
Probably  he  had  been  drinking,  to  get  his  courage  up.  For, 
A  jovial  certainly,  the  most  wonderful  rumours  had  preceded  us, 
potentate,  ^j^icji^   jf  ^j^gy   (ji(j  jjot  precisely  mark  us  out  to  be 

cannibals,  yet  represented  us  as  something  very  much  of  the 
kind  ;  and  that  the  normal  occupation  of  the  Badutschi  was  that 
of  murdering  people,  was  a  belief  that  I  found  to  exist  in  quite 
intelligent  Waganda  men.  According  to  what  Marco  told  me, 
the  English  and  Arabs  spread  reports  of  this  kind  on  the  Vic- 
toria Nyanza.  What  stamped  us  specially  as  such  was  the 
fight  with  the  Mangati,  and,  above  all,  the  driving  off  of  the 
herds  of  the  Massais.  Wachore  is  a  man  of  about  forty  years  of 
■age,  with  strikingly  intelligent  and  attractive  features.  A  deep 
.sabre -cut  on  his  face  gives  proof  that  he  has  not  shrunk  from 
the  turmoil  of  the  battle.  He  had  brought  with  him  large 
j)itchers  of  various  kinds  of  wine  and  beer,  and  whether  we 
liked  it  or  no,  we  were  forced  to  pledge  him  more  frequently 
than  we  would  have  wished.  He  talked  and  laughed  incessantly, 
and  we  were  soon  good  friends.  His  ladies,  who  glanced  slyly 
out  at  us  from  under  the  fantastic  shields,  hung  with  asses'  skins, 
^j^^  which  they  held  horizontally  over  their  heads,  inspected. 

Sultan's  in  the  meantime,  with  undisguised  astonishment,  the 
guests,  whose  like  they  had  never  seen,  the  tent,  the 
motionless  Somalis,  standing  by  in  their  picturesque  splendour. 
I  caused  a  small  mirror  to  be  handed  to  each  of  them,  for  which 
they  thanked  me  with  many  coquettish  smiles,  and,  like  true 
•daughters  of  Eve,  they  immediately  understood  the  use  of  them. 


ARRIVAL-  OF  KAMANYIRO  KANT  A.  355 

Wachore  touched  lightly  upon  his  relations  with  the  King  of 
Uganda,  with  a  certain  diplomatic  dexterity.  He  received  us 
simply  as  friends  of  Muanga,  and  confined  himself  to  wachore's 
explaining,  on  his  part,  that  he  was  a  friend  of  any  one  ^i'"- 
whom  Muanga  recognised  as  a  friend.  It  struck  me  that  though 
Marco  treated  him  with  an  apparent  friendliness  and  courtesy, 
there  was  yet  a  certain  degree  of  self-sufficiency  half  hidden 
under  ceremonial  formalities. 

"  My  land  is  your  land,"  said  Wachore.  "  If  you  wish  for 
anything,  let  me  know,  and  you  shall  have  it  at  once." 

At  half-past  four  o'clock  he  at  length  withdrew  with  his 
suite,  and  immediately  afterwards  large  baskets  of  fowls,  eggs, 
and  quails,  together  with  sheep  and  goats,  were  dragged  up  to 
us,  as  proof  that  the  Sultan  had  been  pleased  by  this  visit  to 
our  encampment. 

Scarcely  'had  the  sound  of  Wachore's  drums  and  flutes  died 
away  in  the  north,  when  all  at  once  the  mixed  music  of  many 
more  drums  and  flutes,  belonging  to  a  new  procession,  ap- 
proached my  tent  from  the  west.  I  asked  Marco  what  this 
meant,  and  he  answered, — 

"This  is  the  great  chief  of  the  Waganda  (mkubroa).  Do 
not  be  friendly  with  him  ;  he  is  bad,  and  a  liar,  and  he  knows 
not  the  words  of  Jesus  Christ." 

With  genuine  astonishment,  I  presently  saw  coming  towards 
me  a  personage,  who,  from  his  costume,  might  have  been  a  fit 
denizen  of  an  Oriental  court,  but  was  such  an  apparition  as 
I  certainly  should  not  have  expected  to  see  in  Central  Africa. 

A  dark  caftan,  embroidered  with  silver,  fell  over  wide  sky- 
blue  trousers,  also  adorned  with  silver  embroidery.  On  his 
head  he  wore  a  diadem,  made  entirely  of  strings  of  beads  of 
different  colours,  artistically  interwoven,  and  rising  in  the  form 
of  a  kind  of  crown.  The  wearer  of  this  adornment  was  Kamanyiro 
Kamanyiro  Kanta,  the  cousin  of  the  late  King  Mtesa,  Muanga's 
and  uncle  of  Muanga,  to  whose  party  he  belonged.  At  '^''^^■ 
the  overthrow  of  the  Christians  he  had  been  driven  across  the 
Nile  by  the  Arabs,  and  was  now  staying  in  Usoga,  where  he 
claimed  to  represent  the  interests  of  his  country  as  ambassador 


356  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

extraordinary  of  Muauga.  Under  this  pretext  he  had  got 
together  a  large  amount  of  property,  and  among  the  rest  a 
harem  of  extraordinarily  pretty  girls. 

He  came  up  to  salute  me  with  loud  yells,  which  his  musicians 
accompanied  by  a  wild  flourish  on  their  instruments.  I  then 
took  him  by  the  hand,  and  led  him  with  slow  steps  in  front  of 
my  tent,  where  he  took  his  seat  upon  a  chair,  which  he  had 
brought  with  him,  while  I  seated  myself  opposite  him  in  my 
own  armchair.  Herr  von  Tiedemann,  who  had  been  drawn 
from  his  tent  by  the  noise,  was  not  a  little  surprised  to  find  this 
new  procession  with  us. 

Kamanyiro  Kanta's  feeling  towards  Marco  seemed  at  first  ta 
be  one  of  great  irritation.  As  Marco  informed  me  afterwards, 
he  had  asked  him  reproachfully  why  he  had  not  brought  up  the 
Career  of  great  English  expedition  from  Kawirondo.  Kamanyiro's 
Kamanyiro.  pgj.^Q(j  of  prosperity  Seemed  to  have  been  in  the  days  of 
Mtesa,  and  especially  during  the  months  that  Stanley  spent  at 
Uganda.  Accordingly,  he  felt  from  the  beginning  a  natural 
sympathy  with  the  English;  a  sympathy  which  he  certainly 
took  care  to  hide  from  me,  but  from  which  he  could  never  quite 
free  himself.  Marco,  however,  made  him  a  very  quiet  report,  in 
which  he  paraphrased  the  old  Latin  saying,  "  Ultra  posse  nema 
obligatur  "  ("  Since  the  Englishmen  would  not  come,  it  had  not 
been  possible  for  him  to  bring  them").  Then  he  passed  on  to 
a  description  of  our  expedition,  pointed  to  the  cattle  that  we 
had  taken  from  the  Massais,  and  further  declared  that  it  was 
I  who  had  beaten  the  Mangati  on  the  north-east  of  the  Victoria 
Nyanza. 

At  every  remark  of  this  kind  the  old  gentleman  sprang 
from  his  chair,  with  loud  yells,  to  clasp  me  in  his  arms,  each 
embrace  being  accompanied  with  a  loud  flourish  from  his 
orchestra,  which  consisted  of  about  seven  performers. 

"When  Marco  had  ended,  Kamanyiro  said  to  me,  "I  salute 
you,  0  German,  as  the  friend  of  Muanga,  and  as  my  friend ! 
We  are  all  one.  What  we  possess  is  yours,  and  what  you  possess 
is  ours." 

After  this  the  whole   procession,  which   was   composed  of 


RECEPTION  BY  SULTAN   WACHORE.  357 

about  seventy  persons,  went  on  its  way,  and  presently  had 
vanished,  amid  beating  of  drums  and  tootling  of  flutes,  like  a 
vivid  mirage  ;  and  once  again  I  sat  alone  in  the  sweet  rest- 
fulness  of  the  banana  grove,  on  which  the  full  moon  shed  its 
light. 

On  the  following  morning  we  paid  our  return  visit  to  the 
Sultan  Wachore. 

For  visits  of  this  nature  we  donned  a  uniform  which  had 
been  devised  by  Herr  von  Tiedemann — white  trousers,  trimmed 
with  a  broad  stripe  of  gold  down  the  side,  stuck  into  Return  visit 
high  boots,  coming  up  to  the  knee,  and  white  jackets,  *<> ''^*<'''^<"^6- 
with  red  lappets  at  the  shoulders  embroidered  with  gold,  and 
cuffs  to  the  sleeves  to  match.  The  helmet  was  also  adorned 
with  bands  of  gold,  and  I  wore,  in  addition,  a  black  and  gold 
scarf.  Appearances  count  for  much  in  Europe,  and  for  still 
more  in  Central  Africa,  and  it  would  have  shown  very  little 
wisdom  not  to  have  turned  this  fact  to  profit. 

Wachore  received  us  in  a  dome-like  hall,  open  on  one  side. 
He  was  reclining  on  an  Indian  divan,  placed  on  the  ground,  and 
was  dressed  in  a  black  caftan,  embroidered  with  gold.  He  was 
smoking  a  pipe,  and  had,  of  course,  a  large  bumper  of  banana 
wine  at  his  side,  from  which  he  sucked  up  the  intoxicating 
liquid  through  a  reed. 

"  We  are  come  to  salute  you,"  I  said,  when  we  had  taken 
our  seats  before  him  on  the  chairs  we  brought  with  us,  "  and  to 
tell  you  that  we  are  your  friends,  and  that  we  intend  to  remain 
your  friends." 

"Every  one  who  is  the  friend  of  Muanga  is  niyp^^pj._ 
friend.     I  love  white  men,  and  am  especially  glad  tomentsand 

'  ^  „  ceremonies. 

be  friends  with  the  Germans,  who  understand  war. 

"  Have  you  ever  seen  any  white  men  ?  " 

"  Once  before  this,  in  Uganda." 

"Now  that  we  have  been  here  among  you,  no  doubt  many 
more  white  men  will  come  into  your  country." 

"They  will  all  be  welcome,"  was  the  repl)^  "and  especially 
the  Germans." 

The  conversation  continued  in  this  style  for  more  than  an 


358  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

hour,  during  which  the  banana  wine  circulated  without  inter- 
mission, and  the  pipes  were  refilled.  Above  Wachore's  sofa  a 
few  guns  were  hanging.  They  were  breech-loaders  of  various 
construction,  and  one  in  particular,  a  Martini  rifle,  Wachore 
A  tragic  Ordered  to  be  taken  down  and  handed  to  us.  It  was 
accident.  ]^q^^  loaded  and  cocked,  and  suddenly  went  off  in  Herr 
von  Tiedemann's  hands.  The  bullet  passed  through  the  head 
of  one  of  Wachore's  attendants,  so  that  his  eyeball  fell  at  our 
feet,  and  the  man  was  dead  in  a  moment ;  and  a  second  was  hit 
on  the  jaw,  which  was  shattered,  and  he,  too,  afterwards  ex^Dired. 
There  was  a  moment's  deep  silence,  and  then  I  apologised  to 
Wachore  for  Herr  von  Tiedemann. 

"  My  friend  weeps  sorely,"  I  said,  "  that  the  weapon  went 
off  in  his  hands." 

Wachore  suddenly  burst  out  into  a  roar  of  laughter.  "  It 
does  not  signify  in  the  least,"  he  exclaimed  ;  "  the  man  was 
only  a  slave.  Your  friend  did  not  do  it ;  it  was  the  gun  that 
did  it,  so  do  not  trouble  yourselves  about  that." 

The  whole  court  joined  in  the  laughter,  that  seemed,  how- 
ever, a  little  forced.  The  corpse  was  quickly  removed,  sand 
,.  was  strewn  over  the  pools  of  blood,  and  the  bowl  of 

Cheap  esti-  .  .  ^  .         . 

mate  of  banana  wine  was  immediately  handed  round  again ;  just 
uman  i  e.  ^^  ^]^gjj  ^^  Europe  a  guest  has  broken  a  valuable  piece 
of  china,  and  the  well-bred  hostess  is  anxious  to  pass  over  the 
unpleasant  incident  as  quickly  as  possible.  Such  is  the  value 
set  on  human  life  in  Africa. 

This  painful  scene  was  just  ended,  when  Kamauyiro  Kanta 
appeared,  with  his  attendants,  and  I  arranged  with  them  that  I 
should  march  westward  towards  the  Nile,  by  slow  daily  stages. 
As  soon  as  the  answer  confirming  the  report  of  Emin  Pasha's 
departure  arrived  from  Uganda,  I  would  be  ready  to  march 
across  the  Nile  M'ith  the  Wagandas,  who  had  fled  to  Usoga,  and 
to  make  the  attempt  to  bring  back  Muanga  and  the  Christian 
party  into  that  country. 

We  had  scarcely  returned  to  the  camp  before  Wachore  sent 
to  Herr  von  Tiedemann  a  basketful  of  eggs,  to  show  that  he 
had  no  ill  feeling  against  him  on  account  of  the  occurrence  at  the 


.1   BUDGET  OF  ENGLISH  LETTERS.  359 

morning's  drinking  party.     On  my  side,  I  sent  another  gold- 
embroidered  caftan  in  return  to  Wachore. 

My  people  were  still  not  quite  easy  as  to  the  fate  which 
lay  before  them.  Thinking  to  inspire  them  with  a  greater 
feeling  of  security  I  gave  orders  that  only  one  sentry  should 
be  on  duty  at  night,  instead  of  the  four  who  generally  kept 
guard  ;  for  I  knew  perfectly  well  that  if  we  should  be  attacked 
in  these  regions  it  was  quite  immaterial  how  many  men  were 
on  sentry  duty.  In  any  case  we  should,  if  attacked,  be  hope- 
lessly lost. 

My  frame  of  mind  during  these  days  was  somewhat  agitated 
and  uneasy,  with  respect  to  the  approaching  decision  concerning 
the  final  object  of  the  expedition.  This  decision  was  to  be 
given  earlier  than  I  had  anticipated. 

According  to  the  agreement,  I  set  out  on  the  following  day, 
advancing  slowly  towards  the  west.  We  now  always  made 
short  marches,  with  drums  and  fifes  playing,  and  regularly 
pitched  our  tents  in  some  banana  grove.  Our  life  was  in  every 
respect  a  pleasant  one,  for  there  were  no  immediate  problems  for 
the  expedition  to  solve.  Wachore  alone  was  entirely  responsible 
for  the  provisioning,  and  Wasoga  provided  guides. 

On  February  13th  we  happened    to  have  a  great  number 
of  Wagandas  and  Wasogas  in  our  camp.     Kamanyiro's  band  was 
playing,  and  the  beer  was  flowing  in  streams,  when  Letters  for 
suddenly  some  Waganda   men  came  up  to   me,    andusiex^ 
handed  me  letters.     These   letters  were  addressed  to^^*"''"'- 
the  gentlemen  of  the  English  expedition,  and  I  was  on  the 
point  of  returning  them,  when  I  suddenly  perceived  that  on  one 
of  them  H.  M.  Stanley  was  indicated  as  the  sender.     A  joyful 
hope    thrilled    through    me    at    this   sight,    that    the    news   of 
Stanley's  departure  must  be  incorrect,  for  if  he  was  now  send- 
ing  a   letter   to  Usoga  he  could  not  possibly  have   left   the 
Equatorial  Province  five  months  ago.     Marco  put  an  end  to 
ray  uncertainty  by  tearing  open  the  letter,  and  giving  it  to  me 
to  read ;  and  under  the  peculiar  circumstances  in  which  I  was 
placed,  I  felt  myself  perfectly  justified  in  doing  so. 

And  now  the  veil  fell  from  the  shrouded  image,  and  I  saw 


360  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

it  before  me  in  all  its  nakedness.     The  letter  was  to  the  follow- 
ing effect : — 

"  Chuech  Mission  Station,  Makolo. 
"  September  AtA,  1889. 

"  Mr.  H.  M.  Stanley  and  the  expedition  for  the  relief  and 
rescue  of  £min  Pasha  haA'e  arrived  at  Makolo  Station,  at  the 
southern  extremity  of  the  Victoria  Nyanza,  accompanied  by 
Emin  Pasha,  Signor  Casati,  forty  Egyptians,  and  about  four 
hundred  Soudanese. 

"  The  Equatorial  Province  is  accordingly  abandoned.     Lado, 

Mugi  Geri,  and  Dufile  have  been  for  some  months  past  in  the 

hands  of  the  Mahdi.     After  the  evacuation  of  Wadelai 

Report 

from  H.  M.  and  Nuguru  Station  most  of  the  troops  deserted  in  a 
^"^  ^^'  body,  and  went  to  Makraka.  A  small  body  of  troops 
were  last  heard  of  at  Msua,  but  all  the  soldiers  M'ho  were 
found  in  the  province  are  rebels  against  the  Egyptian  Govern- 
ment, and  cannot  be  trusted  by  a  European.  A  letter  con- 
taining similar  information  to  this  has  been  sent  to  Mr.  Stokes. 
Mr.  Stanley  arrived  here  on  August  28th,  1889.  In  a  few 
days  the  expedition  will  start  from  here  for  the  coast  vid 
Mpuapua. 

(Signed)     "H.M.Stanley." 

Such  was  the  cold,  dry  purport  of  the  letter.  Not  a  greet- 
ing to  his  countrymen  ;  not  a  word  of  counsel  or  of  suggestion 
Disappoint-  to  Jackson  and  his  colleagues  !  Although  I  had,  for 
discourage-  Several  days  past,  conjectured  the  kind  of  news  con- 
""''*•  tained  in  this  letter,  the  effect  on  me  was  simply 
crushing.  So,  while  I  was  yet  in  Muina,  Emin  Pasha  had 
already  been  at  the  southern  end  of  Lake  Victoria.  When  I  had 
landed  in  Kwaihu  Bay  he  must  have  quitted  his  province  long 
before.  For  this,  then,  we  had  endured  all  the  dangers, 
anxieties,  and  toils  ;  to  receive  this  news  there,  at  the  very 
gates  of  the  Equatorial  Province  !  What  could  have  been  the 
design  of  Providence  in  permitting  us  to  advance  so  far,  only  to 
make  it  clear  to  us  at  last  that  our  labours  had  been  all  in  vain  ? 


AN  OBJECT   TO  BE  ACTTIEVET). 


361 


"  I  will  march  on  to  Wadelai,  in  s])ite  of  it,"  was  ni_v  first 
resolve.  "Perhaps  Emin  Pasha  av ill  come  some  day  or  other 
to  deliver  ns,"  was  the  mocking  echo  of  my  thonght.  But  this 
impulse  of  defiance  was  soon  succeeded  by  more  reasonable 
considerations. 


^!W,^ 


^'dWl'' 


Dr.  Peters  reads  Stanleys  Letter. 


There  was  yet,  I  knew,  a  possibility  of  making  the  ex- 
pedition, after  all,  conducive  to  the  great  aims  out  of  whicJi 
it  had  arisen.  If  Emin  Pasha  was  gone,  and  the  Equatorial 
Province  evacuated,  the  solution  lay  in  the  great  contrast 
Ijetween  the  Christian  and  the  Arab  system  to  the  north  ot 
Lake  Victoria,  in  Uganda.     I'ganda  must  lie  made  a  rampart. 


362  XEW  LIGHT  O.Y  DARK  AFRICA. 

to  keep  back   the  deluge   of  Mohammedanism  from  invading 
Determina- the  uorth,   aud  perhaps  a  starting-point  for  winning 
oeed  with""  back  all  that  had  been  lost  there.     The  two  English 
the  march,  expeditions  from    the    west   and   from    the   east  had 
been  fearful  to  interfere  in  the   tangled  disturbances  of  this 
country.     If,  then,  the   German  Emin  Pasha  Expedition  suc- 
ceeded in  contributing  to  the  solution  of  the  question  in  a 
Christian  sense,  we  should  have  the  right  to  say  to  ourselves, 
that  the  toils  which  had  led  us  to  Wachore's  capital  had  not 
been   in   vain.     The    expedition   would    then   have    effected  a 
tangible  object,  and  we  should  be  able,  with  a  clear  conscience, 
to  meet  those  who  had  sent  us  out.     At  the  same  time,  I  might 
hope   to  have  an  opportunity  of  working  for  the  furtherance 
of  the  special  national  interests  of  Germany  in  Uganda.    I 
learnt    afterwards    that,    even    before    my   expedition    started, 
Uganda  had  been   ceded  to  England,    but   no  information  of 
the  cession  had  been  communicated  to  us.     A  great  German 
expedition  had   been  allowed  to   march  into  these  countries, 
without  its  having  been  thought  necessary  to  vouchsafe  to  it 
any  information  whatever  on  that  important  transaction. 

On  February  13th,  1890,  I  was  naturally  under  the  impres- 
sion that  the  die  that  settled  the  fate  of  Uganda  had  not  as  yet 
Up  to  been  cast  in  Europe  ;  that  the  prize  of  the  contest  was 
Uganda!  g^jj^  ^^iexB,  and  would  fall  to  the  lot  of  the  boldest ;  and 
that  in  any  case  the  monopolising  of  the  country  for  the  special 
interests  of  England  could  yet  be  prevented.  This  prospect 
could  not  fail  to  be  a  seductive  one,  and  to  nerve  my  resolution. 
Providence  had  rendered  abortive  all  our  plans  regarding  Unjoro 
and  the  north.  To  resist  fate  was  beyond  our  power.  On  the 
other  hand,  it  pointed  us  clearly  and  unmistakably  to  the 
south-west,  where  vast  interests  of  civilisation  were  at  stake. 
Up  then,  and  away  to  Uganda ! 

Half  an  hour  after  the  receipt  of  Stanley's  letter, — which,  by 
Preparation  ^^^  ^^'^^^  ^  ^^^*  0"^  t°  Kawiroudo, — I  gave  orders  to  my 
for  depar-    columu  to  hold  itself  in  readiness  for  the  march,  to 

ture.  ' 

turn  off"  towards  Uganda  early  on  the  following  day. 
I  was  well  aware  what  risk  I  once  more  took  upon  myself  by 


HOPING  FOR   TBE  BEST.  36S 

SO  doing  ;  but  I  can  honestly  say,  that  although  I  saw  that  I  could 
now  make. an  honourable  retreat  upon  the  English  expedition  in 
Kawirondo,  which  I  had  reason  to  believe  would  at  any  rate  not 
be  hostile  to  us,  I  never  for  one  moment  entertained  the  thought 
of  so  doing. 

In  the  evening  I  sat  longer  than  usual  in  serious  conversa- 
tion with  Herr  von  Tiedemann,  in  front  of  my  tent.  The  twi- 
light of  the  banana  grove  conjured  up  grotesque  images  before 
our  eyes,  and  a  gentle  night  wind  rustled  through  the  waving 
leaves.  In  the  distance  could  be  heard  the  drums,  fifes,  and 
songs  of  the  Wasoga  men  ;  in  the  camp  all  was  still. 

Afterwards,  when  I  lay  down  to  rest,  there  came  over  my 
heart  an  infinite  sense  of  forlornness  and  a  profound  self-pity. 
My  thoughts  wandered  back  to  my  country,  which  had  conflicting- 
allowed  it  to  come  to  pass  that  a  foreign  power  should  e^oti""'- 
dare  to  deprive  us  of  almost  every  means  of  making  our  appear- 
ance effectively,  here  on  the  scene  of  action.  I  seemed  to  be  a 
repudiated  man,  and  my  passion  of  distress  was  lightened  by  an 
outburst  of  convulsive  sobbing.  Without,  the  night  wind  swept 
through  the  rustling  leaves  of  the  banana  groves ;  the  lofty 
boughs  of  the  tall  fig-tree,  beneath  which  my  tent  had  been 
pitched,  swayed  in  the  wind,  and  whispered  to  each  other  strange 
weird  stories.  At  last,  my  spirit  was  soothed  into  a  quiet 
composure,  and  bowed  itself  in  submission  to  the  eternal  and 
inscrutable  designs  of  Providence. 

The  rising  sun  found  us  next  day  on  our  march  towards  the 
south-west.  I  wanted  to  cross  the  Nile  at  Jinga,  above  the 
Ripon  Falls ;  and  I  again  despatched  letters  to  Muanga,  with 
the  request  that  he  would  send  boats  to  Grant's  Bay,  that  from 
there  I  might  open  communications  with  the  Christian  party 
across  the  lake. 

Our  further  journey  onward  towards  Usoga  was  accomplished 
in  a  very  agreeable  manner.     The  daily  marches  were  short, 
out  of  consideration  for  Kamanyiro  and  his  surround-  pieasant 
ings.     There  was  abundance  of  food  and  drink,  and  JJ^^^g^'' *"" 
in  the  afternoons  and  evenings  we  were  entertained  ^^oe*- 
by  the  dances  and  songs  of  the  girls  of  Kamanyiro's  harem,  to 


tl 


364  NEW  LIGHT   ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

which  entertainments  we  were  regularly  invited  after  dinner ; 
sometimes,  also,  an  assembly  of  the  people  was  called,  in  which 
Kamanyiro  would  convey  our  greetings  to  the  Wasoga  men,  and 
assure  them  of  the  close  friendship  Avhich  united  us  to  himself. 
As  the  afternoon  drew  on  Kamanyiro  invariably  got  drunk  ;  but 
as  he  was  always  in  a  good  humour,  he  contributed  in  no  small 
degree  to  the  hilarity  of  the  expedition.  Indeed,  it  was  alto- 
gether an  extraordinary  contrast,  when  I  thought  of  the  times 
when  we  were  marching  over  the  high  plateaus  beneath  the 
Kenia,  or  over  the  Angata  na  Nyuki.  Kamanyiro's  drummers, 
like  all  his  other  followers,  were  one-eyed.     When  I 

Kaman-  .  .  •' 

yiro's  one-  asked  him  how  it  happened  that  he  had  engaged  none 
eye  men.  ^^^  one -eyed  people,  he  made  a  gesture  with  his  hand, 
to  indicate  the  action  of  tearing  out  a  man's  eye,  and,  with  a 
.snap  of  his  fingers  towards  the  ground,  cried,  "  Eh,  it  looks 
better !  "  This  one-eyedness  was,  as  it  were,  the  livery  of 
Kamanyiro's  servants,  and  was  not  by  any  means  the  effect  of 
accident ;  the  old  gentleman  himself  knew  best  how  it  had 
been  brought  about. 

On  February  16th,  I  at  length  received  the  letters  from 
Uganda  which  confirmed  the  news  of  Emin  Pasha's  departure, 
and  invited  us  to  come  to  the  aid  of  the  Christian  party.  At 
the  same  time  the  French  certainly  told  us  that  plague, 
famine,  and  black  small-pox  were  raging  in  the  country.  This, 
however,  did  not  have  any  effect  on  my  decision. 

On  February  1 8th  I  encamped,  as  I  have  mentioned,  on  the 
spot  where  Bishop  Hannington  had  paid  with  his  life  for  the 
Bjgjj  jj^jj_obstinacy  with  which  he  had  persisted  in  his  march 
nington's    from  the  east  to  Uganda,  in  spite  of  the  warnings  given 

murder.        ,  .  _  .  .        ,  ^  , 

him  on  the  subject,  in  the  most  urgent  manner,  by  the 
French  and  English.  The  Sultan  Douba,  who  had  executed  the 
punishment  of  death  on  Hannington,  had  fled  at  the  approach 
of  our  expedition,  and  kept  entirely  aloof  from  us.  I  should 
have  dearly  liked  to  avenge  on  him  the  murder  of  a  white  man  ; 
although,  as  a  matter  of  fact,  he  had  merely  carried  out  a 
judicial  sentence  pronounced  in  the  capital. 

The  Waganda  have  an  old  prophecy,  according  to  which  an 


ARRIVAL  AT  TEE  NILE.  365 

expedition  coming  from  the  east  is  to  "  eat  up  "  the  land  and 
make  an  end  of  the  dynasty  of  the  Wakintu.  For  that  reason 
the  approach  from  the  east  has  always  been  strictly  forbidden, 
and  my  expedition  was  the  first  which  had  entered  the  country 
from  that  direction.  Muanga  had,  accordingly,  forbidden 
Hannington  to  come  to  Uganda  from  Kawirondo,  and  cause  of 
had  even  sent  him  boats,  to  carry  him  to  Usukuma,  and  ^^^  '='^™^- 
thence  to  Uganda.  Bishop  Hannington's  death,  therefore,  had 
no  connection  whatever  with  the  persecution  of  the  Christians, 
which  happened  later,  but  was  occasioned  by  entirely  different 
considerations,  which  had  nothing  at  all  to  do  with  religion. 

On  February  19th  the  waters  of  the  sacred  Nile  suddenly 
gleamed  at  my  feet.  I  must  confess  that  a  thrill  of  proud 
triumph  ran  through  me  when  I  beheld  the  Nile.  The  Arrival  at 
little  German  Emin  Pasha  Expedition  had  achieved  ^^^  ^'■^^■ 
what  none  had  ever  accomplished  before.  Tana,  Baringo,  the 
Nile  !  With  only  some  sixty  men,  we  had  penetrated  through 
Gallas  and  Massais,  to  the  eastern  boundary  of  Uganda.  What- 
ever Fate  might  yet  have  in  store  for  us,  in  every  case  honour 
was  saved. 

I  pitched  my  camp  about  fifty  paces  above  the  river  bank. 
Hundreds  of  Christian  Waganda,  especially  girls  and  women, 
came  crowding  round  to  greet  us.     They  welcomed  us  -welcome 
as  deliverers  and  liberators ;  but  declared,  in  answer  to  christian 
my   proposal   that   they   should   go   with   me   to   the  "Waganda. 
opposite  bank,  that  they  were  quite  willing  to  do  so,  but  would 
wait  for  "  two  days."     The  attachment  and  confidence  of  these 
people  struck  me  as  something  quite  touching  and  affecting. 

When,  on  the  following  morning,  I  directed  the  passage  of 
my  expedition  across  to  Uganda,  the  whole  right  bank  of  the 
Nile  was  covered  with  hundreds  of  these  figures,  clad  in  gar- 
ments of  brown  fibre  cloth.  I  had  had  my  chair  set  up  on  a 
prominence,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river,  so  that  from  that 
position  I  might  superintend  the  passage  of  the  caravan. 

Below  me  was  displayed  an  extremely  gay  and  animated 
scene  ;  the  fantastic  Waganda  boats,  with  their  long  projecting 
prows,  adorned  by  branchiog  antlers  hung  with  skins  and  beads. 


366  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

crowded  along  on  the  water,  to  embark  my  people  and  the 
cattle.  These  boats  are  made  of  planks  sewn  together  and 
Handsome  held  firm  by  a  series  of  strong  ribs*  Above  these  ribs 
thf  ^  °^  small  benches  are  arranged  for  the  rowers,  on  which, 
waganda.  according  to  the  size  of  the  boat,  from  fourteen  to  thirty 
rowers  take  their  places,  and  propel  the  vessel  by  means  of  a 
kind  of  paddle.  On  one  of  the  benches  aft  stands  the  singer, 
who  directs  the  whole,  and  whom  the  rowers  accompany  in 
chorus  with  their  rhythmic  songs.  The  helmsman  sits  in  the 
bow.  The  whole  presents  a  picturesque  appearance.  The  rate 
of  progress,  when  the  men  work  lustily,  is  a  very  fair  one — as 
much  as  five  English  miles  an  hour.  The  boat  has  a  sort  of 
keel,  by  means  of  which  it  cuts  swiftly  through  the  water  ;  the 
end  of  this  keel  is  prolonged  beyond  the  fore  part  of  the  boat, 
and  forms  the  great  beak  or  prow  before  mentioned.  The 
vessel,  altogether,  recalls  the  representations  sometimes  seen  on 
Lavish  Egyptian  temples.  But  what  a  lavish  waste  of  power 
ture^f^  is  displayed  by  the  whole  arrangement  of  these  vessels ! 
labour.  From  twenty-five  to  thirty  men  are  required  to  trans- 
port six  or  seven  passengers  or  eight  or  ten  loads  across  the 
lake  !  No  one  can  wonder  that  the  result  of  work  obtained  is 
everywhere  in  Africa  so  insignificant,  when  power  is  wasted  in 
this  way. 

Meanwhile  the  transport  of  my  men   and  luggage  and  of 
the  cattle  was  quickly  effected.     Load  after  load  was 

Passage  .  ^  •' 

across  t  ( deposited  on  the  opposite  shore,  which  I  had  already 
visited  on  the  previous  day.  When  all  had  been  carried 
across,  I  passed  over  myself  with  the  flag  to  the  left  shore,  and 
then  marched  at  once  with  my  column  in  a  southern  direction 
to  a  plantation  of  Kamanyiro's,  where  I  purposed  to  encamp  for 
the  day. 

The  crossing  was  accomplished  a  few  hundred  paces  above 
Ripon  Falls.  The  Nile  is  here  about  6,500  feet  in  breadth. 
Eipon  The  Ripon  Falls  are  precipitated  on  the  left  or  Uganda 
■^^"^-  side  in  a  cataract,  and  on  the  other  side  in  the  form  of 
rapids,  towards  the  north. 

The  fall  may  be  from  twenty  to  forty  feet  in  height.     It  is 


ARRIVAL   IN  UGANDA.  367 

astonishing  what  a  number  of  fish  are  carried  down  by  these 
falls.  The  Waganda  have  a  curious  method  of  catching  them. 
They  drag  them  out  of  the  water,  at  a  place  immediately  Fishing  by 
under  the  falls,  with  a  large  hook,  without  using  any  ^^^  ^^^^'■ 
bait.  It  is  probable  that  the  fish  are  so  stunned  by  the  fall 
down  the  cataract  that  they  are  easy  to  catch.  I  saw  a  man 
bring  out  nine  or  ten  large  fish  in  five  minutes.  The  fish  are 
excellent  eating.  There  were  both  flat  fish  and  some  of  the 
salmon  kind,  which  made  a  very  agreeable  variety  in  our 
monotonous  bill  of  fare. 

Towards  twelve  o'clock  we  had  reached  Kamanyiro's  planta- 
tion, and  established  our  first  camp  on  the  soil  of  Uganda. 
"When  the  last  of  the  boats  which  had  carried  Kaman-  „. 

First  en- 

yiro  and  his  men  across  to  us  turned  back  towards  oampment 
Usoga,  a  kind  of  oppression  stole  over  my  heart.     We  ^^   ^^^  *' 
were  now  manifestly  face  to  face  with  dangers  which  exceeded 
all  those  that  lay  behind  us.     I  neither  knew  Muanga  and  the 
temper  of  his  faction,  nor  had  I  any  information  as  to  the 
position  of  the  Arabs.     How  if  the  boats  which  I  expected  to 
meet  me  at  Grant  s  Bay  were  not  there  ?     Must  I  not  then 
assume   that   the  Arab  faction  would  try,  under  all  circum- 
stances, to  prevent  my  joining   Muanga  .P      And  how^^^^  ^^ 
could  I  entertain  any  reasonable  hope,  if  they  resorted  ous  enter- 
to  force,  to   escape  being  destroyed,  with   my  whole 
expedition  ?     I  knew  for  certain  that  we  were  in  no  condition 
to  resist  Karema,  if  he  were  to  make  a  resolute  attack  upon  us. 
We  could  certainly  sell  our  lives  as  dear  as  possible,  but  there 
could  be  no  thought  of  a  victory,  or  even  of  escape,  in  case  we 
were  attacked  by  the  Arabs.     So  that  our  position  at  this  time 
was  just  that  of  men  playing  at  hazard  and  risking  everything 
against  the  bank. 

When  we  entered  Kamanjiro's  plantation,  with  drums  beat- 
ing and  colours  flying,  my  people  were  jovial  and  of  good  cheer. 
But  my  own  feelings  were  more  serious  than  ever,  and  the 
immediate  future  rose  in  a  threatening  form  before  my  mind. 


The  old. must  fall,  and  time  itself  must  chanpe, 
And  lliiis  new  life  shall  hlossom  frum  the  rniiis.' 

SCHILLEE. 

IF  my  mind  was  iiielint'd  to  super- 
stition, I  foiuid  occasion  I'or 
jiloomy  forebodings  immediately  upon 
our  entrance  into  Uganda.  I  had 
seated  myself  under  a  tree,  and  given 
orders  to  my  servant  Rukua  to  pitcli 
my  tent  on  a  spot  which  I  pointed  out 
to  him.  Rukua  placed  his  Lancaster 
repeating  rifle  against  a  banana  tree, 
and  was  just  preparing  to  carry  out 
„  ^  ,      .   my  orders,  when   all  at  once 

Fatal  acci-        -  ' 

dent  to       a  shot  was  heard,  and  he  fe 

Eukua.         Ill-  p  mi 

bleeding    at    my    leet.      llic 
bullet   had  entered    his  body  close  to 
tJie  spine,  ])assed  through  the  lungs,  and  come 
out    under    the    left    arm.      I    thought    for    a 
moment  that  the  shot  was  fired  by  Talabanga  through  care- 
lessness, and  had  already  drawn   my  revolver  to  punish  him 


DISAPPOINTMENT  AT  GRANT'S  BAY.  369 

for  it,  when  I  saw  that  Rukua  had  been  shot  down  by  his 
own  weapon.  He  had  again,  in  defiance  of  my  repeated 
warnings,  been  carrying  it  not  only  loaded,  but  cocked; 
it  had  slipped  down  from  the  banana  tree,  and  gone  off  as 
it  fell. 

There  was  no  chance  of  the  faithful  fellow's  surviving.     We 
bandaged  the  wound  at  once,  but  every  breath  he  drew  came 
whistling  through  the  shot  holes,  and  black  spirts  of         , 
blood  welled  out  on  the  ground.     He  at  once  began  to  death  and 
wander,  calling  incessantly  on  my  name,  and  that  of  ^^^ ' 
his  friend  and  countryman,  Selek.     I  had  him  placed  on  my 
bed  and  carried  into  a  hut  close  by  ;  but  he  died  within  half-an- 
hour,  and  we  had  only  the  sad  satisfaction  of  giving  him  an 
honourable  funeral.     I  now  forbade  any  further  carry-  precaution- 
ing  of  loaded  guns  throughout  the  whole  expedition  ;  ^"^y  '"^**'^- 
for  the  mere  marching  with  them  was  a  serious  danger  to  life 
•and  limb,  quite  apart  from  any  hostile  attack. 

In  the  afternoon  Kamanyiro  came  to  me  as  usual,  and 
brought  me  the  information  that  the  boats  which  were  to  carry 
ns  to  Muanga  were  waiting  for  us  in  Grant's  Bay. 

The  next  morning  we  accordingly  started  for  that  place. 
We  marched  first  along  the  high  road  which  leads  from  Usoga 
to  Mengo,  but  soon  after  nine  o'clock  turned  away  from  it  to 
the  left,  and  made  a  wide  circuit  round  the  bay  so  as  to  ^^^  ^^^^^ 
reach  its  south-western  extremity.     Here  we  arrived  at  not  pro- 
noon,  to  find  that  no  boats  were  there  ;  but  I  received, 
instead,  a  letter  from  Mr.  Gordon,  inviting  me  to  march  over- 
land to  Mengo. 

"  BuLiNGOGWE,  J^eST-Mosr!/  18«/i,  1890. 

"  Dear  Sir, — Muanga,  King  of  Uganda,  thanks  you  for  your 
letter  of  February  14th,  1890.  He  wishes  us  to  tell  you  that  the 
plague  was  ravaging  the  island  where  we  all  lived  crowded  to- 
gether. We  left  that  island,  and  intend  to  return  to  ^^^^^^^  ^^^^ 
Mengo,  to  the  mainland.    We  have  no  fear  of  the  plague  King 

.,...-,■,  lluanga. 

there,  for  there  is  not  a  human  bemg  living  m  the  place. 

The  king  sends  you  a  messenger,  named  Mika  Sematimba,  who 

24 


370  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

understands  Kiswahili,  and  will  be  your  guide  to  Mengo, 
where  you  will  meet  the  king.  Muanga  invites  you  to  come 
quickly,  and  if  you  will  cross  the  lake  to  Usukuma,  he  will  give 
you  canoes. 

"  Yours  faithfully, 

"  E.  C.  Gordon." 

The  correspondence  with  Muanga  was  carried  on  by  means 
of  boats  on  the  Victoria  Nyanza. 

I  now  found  myself  in  anything  but  an  agreeable  position. 
The  Christians  on  the  islands  urged  me  to  go  overland  to  the 
Doubtful  capital,  and  they  would  then  place  themselves  in  com- 
position, munication  with  me  from  the  opposite  island.  Between 
me  and  the  capital  lay  a  completely  desolate  region,  and  I  had' 
no  accurate  information  concerning  the  attitude  of  the  Arab 
party.  I  had,  indeed,  been  informed  that  the  Arabs  had  recently 
been  driven  back  by  the  Christians  before  Mengo,  but  even 
after  this  occurrence  the  court  had  still  remained  on  the 
islands,  and  the  messengers  told  me  expressly,  that  Karema  also 
was  still  in  the  north  of  Uganda.  How  could  I  suppose  that  he 
would  refrain  from  attempting  to  prevent  my  effecting  a  junc- 
tion with  the  Christians  P 

I  sent  for  Kamanyiro  in  the  evening,  and  said  to  him, — 

"  You  told  me  yesterday  that  I  should  find  boats  to-day  here 
in  Grant's  Bay  on  Lake  Victoria.  Well,  where  are  these 
boats  P  " 

"  The  boats  are  not  there." 

"  I  know  that  myself.  I  am  a  German,  and  we  Germans  do 
^  ,     ,.    not  like  people  to  tell  us  lies.     If  there  were  no  boats 

Declaration  ^      y 

ofKaman-  here,  why  did  you  say  yesterday  that  we  should  find 

yiro  Kanta.  „  „ 

some  ? 

"  My  people  had  reported  it  to  me." 

"  Yes,  indeed,  your  people  had  reported  it  to  you.  I  do  not 
believe  your  words,  and  I  advise  you  in  future  to  refrain  from 
acting  towards  me  in  such  a  manner.  I  now  inform  you  that 
we  shall  start  to-morrow  morning  to  march  towards  Mengo ; 
but  I  shall  no  longer  march  after  the  manner  of  the  Waganda, 


PLAIN  SPEAKING   TO  KA2IANYIR0.  371 

men,  as  I  did  in  Usoga,  but  in  the  German  fashion ;  that  is, 
we  shall  move  quickly  forward,  from  before  sunrise  in  Definite  in- 
the  morning  till  afternoon,  to  get  to  Mengo  as  quickly  ^J  jj*'""' 
as  possible.  Have  your  men  in  readiness,  therefore,  and  Meters, 
send  everyone  who  is  not  able  to  march  quickly,  back  across 
the  Nile  for  the  present,  to  Usoga.  I  especially  advise  you  to 
send  back  your  women  there.  If  you  are  not  able,  yourself,  to 
accompany  me,  you  can  also  return  to  Usoga.  These  are  my 
orders,  and  I  now  leave  it  to  you  whether  you  will  obey  them 
or  not." 

This  tone  was  to  some  extent  new  to  the  old  Uganda  chief, 
who  on  the  day  before  had  had  a  whole  village  flogged,  simply 
to  give  us  an  idea  of  his  power.  I  may  refer  to  the  statements 
of  Emin  Pasha  and  of  Stanley,  to  show  with  what  arrogance 
these  chiefs  were  formerly  accustomed  to  behave  towards  white 
men.  Kamanyiro  had  already  tried  once  in  Usoga  to  take  that 
tone  with  me.  One  morning,  when  I  gave  the  signal  for  starting 
and  my  tent  was  already  taken  down,  he  sent  a  servant  with 
the  message,  that  I  might  as  well  have  the  tent  put  up  again, 
as  we  should  not  march  that  day.  I  thereupon  sent  for  ^^^^j^g^jj^. 
him,  and  asked  him  drily  whether  he  was  of  opinion  that  ing  with 

.  Ill         Kamanyiro. 

I  had  lost  my  wits  during  the  night,  or  whether  that 
calamity   had    happened   to   himself; — after   which,   in   three 
minutes'  time,  we   found  ourselves  amicably  marching  along 
together. 

Here  on  the  Nile  was  the  province  of  which  Kamanyiro  was 
Governor,  and  the  very  next  day  was  to  bring  his  antiquated 
claims   into   open  conflict  with  the  ideas  which  we  had  been 
accustomed  to  carry  out  in  the  expedition.     On  this  day,  before 
sunrise,  we  had  already  climbed  the  ridge  that  encloses  Lake 
Victoria   like   the   walls   of  a   crater.     Uganda  in   its  south- 
western portions  is  less  fertile  than  Usoga.,    It  may  be  ^^^^^^ 
said  that  in  Usoga  the  greater  part  is  cultivated,  and  dessert  ^ 
in  Uganda  the   greater  part   is   steppe.      The   whole 
country  parallel  to  Lake  Victoria  is  framed  by  a  hilly  range 
forming    a    table-land;    and   a    similar   mountain    formation 
extends  along  the  Nile  to  the  north,  as  far  as  the  eye  can  range. 


372  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

The  formation  of  the  mountains  is  very  singular,  such  as  I  have 
never  seen  elsewhere  ;  always  table-shaped,  with  blunt  flattened 
summits. 

These  hills  stretch  uninterruptedly  as  far  as  the  north-east 
angle  of  the  lake,  to  the  mouth  of  the  Katonga  near  Buddu. 
As  I  said  before,  the  mountains  generally  slope  abruptly  down 
to  the  lake,  in  crater-like  formation. 

As  the  lake  runs  into  the  land  in  many  bays,  and  a  row  of 
more  or  less  beautiful  islands  lies  facing  the  shore,  the  view 
from  the  heights  is  extraordinarily  attractive  and 
from  the  picturesque.  If  the  eye  is  allowed  to  wander  towards 
^^  °'  the  right,  over  the  plateau  northwards,  a  broad  plain 
is  seen  stretching  out,  only  broken  here  and  there  by  isolated 
hills.  Where  the  land  slopes  away  to  the  north  1  ie  the 
villages  and  plantations  of  Waganda,  everywhere  enclosed  by 
ever-green  banana  groves,  surrounded  by  fields  of  corn  and 
batatas.  The  whole  scene  makes  a  curious  but  a  very  pleasing 
impression. 

The  billows  of  war  had  not  yet  rolled  to  this  farthermost 
south-west  corner  of  Uganda.  It  was  not  until  the  second  day 
that  we  came  to  a  devastated  and  burnt- out  district.  Here  we 
^j^^  found  people  still  left,  who  gazed  in  mute  fear  at  the 

astonished  great  black,  white,  and  red  flag,  which  in  front  of  our 
expedition   was    carried   for    the   first    time    through 
Uganda. 

As  I  well  knew  that  in  the  case  of  possible  Arab  enterprise  I 
should  have  to  rely  principally  on  moral  impressions,  I  had  taken 
care  that  our  reputation  should  precede  us,  and  had  been 
■careful  above  all  to  bring  with  me  from  Usoga  a  band  of  war 
March  in  ^i^ums,  which  should  send  the  signal  of  war  resounding 
military  before  US  over  the  far-spreading  heights; — three  drums 
tuned  in  fifths,  on  which  the  roll  was  beaten,  and  the 
big  drum  coming  in  between,  the  whole  producing  a  solemn  and 
threatening  effect. 

In  this  way  we  went  on  the  whole  morning,  in  a  westerly 
direction.  We  passed  over  one  chain  of  hills  after  another, 
and  in  the  valleys  several  watercourses  were  crossed,  which 


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KAilANYIRO'S  DUPLICITY  FRUSTRATED.  373 

carry  the  waters  of  Uganda  into  the  Victoria  Nyanza.     On 
February  22nd  I  encamped  in  Ischioragama,  a  large  Encamp- 
and  well-preserved  plantation   belonging  to  the  king,  J^oMorl- 
with  a  broad  road  running  straight  through  it,  along-  ga^a. 
side  of  which  I  established  my  encampment. 

Kamanyiro  Kanta  did  not  make  his  appearance  until  an 
hour  after  our  arrival,  and  even  then  he  was  very  weary,  and 
groaning  from  his  exertions.  I  went  a  few  steps  forward  to 
meet  him  and  congratulate  him,  a  little  ironically,  on  his 
prowess  in  marching.  I  then  took  him  by  the  hand  and  led 
him,  as  usual,  to  the  chair  in  front  of  my  tent.  But  now  the 
old  gentleman  suddenly  broke  out  into  a  flood  of  in-  „ 

,  *^  Kaman- 

vectives  and  curses,  of  which  I  certainly  did  not  under-  yiroKanta's 
stand  all,  as  they  were  principally  directed  to  the  large  '^  ""^"y' 
crowd  of  Waganda  men  who  stood  round ;  but  I  gathered  that 
they  were  chiefly  levelled  at  the  arrogance  of  white  men,  who 
imagined  that  they  could  now  play  the  part  of  conquerors  in 
Uganda.  He  wound  up  his  address  with  the  announcement  to 
me,  that  the  king  had  sent  word  I  was  now  to  remain  for  three 
days  in  Ischioragama.  I  answered  Kamanyiro,  very  quietly, 
that  in  future,  when  he  wanted  to  hold  a  conference  with  his 
assembled  people,  he  must  be  kind  enough  to  choose  some  other 
place  for  it  than  my  tent ;  and,  in  addition  to  this,  he  was  not 
to  bawl  so  loud  when  he  was  close  to  me,  as  I  could  hear  very 
well.  As  regarded  his  communication,  I  did  not  believe  Muanga 
had  made  any  such  demand  upon  me.  Moreover,  even  if  this 
were  the  case,  I  should  not  be  in  a  position  to  fulfil  it,  as  it  did 
not  suit  my  manner  of  travelling. 

"You  say  that  this  way  of  travelling  is  your  custom  in 
Uganda.  Well,  you  Waganda  may  keep  to  it.  So  far  as  I  am 
concerned,  you  can  stay  not  only  three  days,  but  three  Dr.Peters's 
years,  here  in  Ischioragama.  For  my  part,  I  am  a  "p^^- 
German,  and  am  accustomed  not  to  copy  the  ways  of  strangers, 
but  to  follow  my  own." 

Hereupon  Kamanyiro  poured  forth  a  fresh  torrent  of 
imprecations.  He  had  always  said  so— the  white  men  would 
"  eat  up  "  Uganda  yet,— but  that  all  came  from  their  allowing 


374  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

the  words  of  Jesus  there  now,  and  letting  the  old  religion 
perish. 

Then  I  stood  up,  and  said  to  Kamanyiro,  "Now  I  desire  to  be 
alone.     Go  away  to  your  own  houses." 

Then,  as  he  did  not  obey  this  request,  I  summoned  some 

Somalis  to  my  aid,  which  had  a  completely  terrifying  effect  on 

the  Waganda  men.     Much  as  I  was  disposed  to  make 

Summary  . 

dismissal  of  some  allowance  for  the  self-willed  obstinacy  of  an  old 
amanyiro.  -^^^^^^  chief,  I  did  uot  think  it  conducive  either  to 
German  or  to  our  own  interests  to  play  the  part  which  former 
travellers — Stanley  above  all — had  been  content  to  act.  As  I 
learned  in  Uganda,  Stanley  had  been  kept  there  a  complete 
prisoner  for  seven  months,  and  Kamanyiro  always  quoted  him 
when  he  came  to  me  with  demands.  Upon  these  grounds,  I 
was  very  glad  of  the  opportunity  of  making  clear  to  the  old 
gentleman,  in  the  first  place,  that  there  was  a  difference  between 
the  year  1889  and  the  time  when  Stanley  was  in  Uganda; 
secondly,  that  when  a  man  came  at  the  head  of  an  armed  expe- 
dition to  the  assistance  of  the  King  of  Uganda,  it  was  not  the 
same  thing  as  when  Stanley  entered  the  country  alone,  and 
only  on  a  visit ;  and  thirdly,  that  apart  from  all  this,  I  was  not 
inclined  to  play  the  traditional  part  accepted  by  white  European 
travellers  in  this  part  of  Africa. 

When  I  had  dismissed  Kamanyiro,  I  wrote  the  following 
letter  to  Mr.  Gordon  : — 


"  IscHiORAGAMA,  February  22nd,  1890. 

"  Dear  Sir,— Kamanyiro  Kanta  informed  me  to-day  that  the 
king  had  sent  him  word  that  I  was  to  remain  here  three  days, 
letter  to  As  tMs  is  in  direct  contradiction  to  your  letter  of 
the'mis^-  "'yesterday,  I  cannot  believe  that  it  is  true.     But,  how- 

sionary.        g^gj.  ^j^g^^    .^^^  -^q^  ^^   ^^^^    ^^^    ^^   ^^^   ^^^  aCCOrd  with 

my  plans  and  the  manner  of  my  journey,  and  I  shall  conse- 
quently continue  my  march  to  Mengo.  I  shall  encamp  to- 
morrow at  Katente,  and  the  day  after  at  Wakarimbue.  Kindly 
ask  the  king  whether  it  is  really  his  wish  that  I  should  wait  for 


DIFFICULT  POSITION  OF  THE  DIPLOMATIST.  375 

three  days  in  a  plantation  by  the  roadside.     Let  me  have  a 
brief  answer.     There  is  no  food  here  for  my  expedition. 

"  Yours  sincerely, 

"  Cabl  Peters. 
"  To  E.  0.  Gordon,  Esq." 

I  sent  this  letter  at  once  to  Kamanyiro  Kanta,  with  the 
request  that  he  would  forward  it  across  the  lake  to  the  king. 
Kamanyiro,  who  may  very  well  have  guessed  the  contents, 
after  breakfast  sent  to  me  the  supervisor  of  his  harem — who 
was  accustomed  to  preside  at  our  afternoon  entertain-  Kamanyiro 
ments — with  the  remark,  that  he  noticed  on  the  march  ap^re^-'^ 
my  sheep  did  not  get  along  very  well.  He  feared  J^e^sions. 
that,  if  I  continued  to  advance  in  the  same  manner,  I  should 
lose  very  many  of  my  sheep.  I  could  not  restrain  a  smile  at 
this,  but  I  sent  back  the  reassuring  answer  that  from  Massai- 
land,  where  I  had  acquired  them  as  spoils  of  war,  to  this  place, 
the  sheep  had  got  used  to  much  longer  marches.  Besides,  it 
mattered  little  if  some  of  them  were  lost ;  when  this  flock  came 
to  an  end,  I  should  very  well  know  where  to  get  another. 

Upon  that,  Kamanyiro  sent  word  back :  "  Did  I  wish  the 
letter  to  the  king  to  be  sent  to-day  or  to-morrow  ?  "  I  answered, 
"To-day,"  and,  in  fact,  "immediately." 

Meanwhile  evening  was  drawing  on,  when  suddenly  I  heard 
my  old  friend  coming  towards  me  in  grand  procession.  He 
drove  before  him  several  oxen  for  slaughter,  and  Renewed 
brought  fowls  in  baskets,  and  some  bananas  and  '"^*- 
honey.  With  loud  yells,  as  was  his  custom,  he  sought  to 
embrace  me,  which  in  a  very  cool,  dry  manner,  I  stopped  him 
from  doing.  He  then  seated  himself  by  my  side,  in  front  of 
my  tent,  trying  to  hide  his  confusion  from  his  companions  by 
continual  chattering  and  laughing.  He  also  tried  repeatedly, 
after  his  old  fashion,  to  drink  with  me,  which  I,  however, 
courteously  declined.  I  purposely  refrained  from  speaking  of 
my  departure  on  the  following  morning,  and  was  now  curious 
to  see  whether  Kamanyiro  would  stay  behind  or  attach  him- 
self to  me. 


376  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

Next  morDing,  as  we  were  about  to  start,  we  noticed  that  his 
women  were  already  prepared  for  a  journey  ;  and  when,  towards 
Kaman-  mid-day,  I  had  set  up  my  camp  in  Katente,  he  came 
fheVro^'  up  to  greet  me,  limp  as  a  broken  lily.  On  the  way  he 
cession.  jja,d  complained  to  Herr  von  Tiedemann,  that  he  was 
an  old  man,  and  could  not  march  as  we  young  people  did.  I 
advised  him  accordingly  to  have  a  litter  made  for  himself,  and 
let  his  slaves  carry  him  in  it ;  but  Kamanyiro  declined  this. 
He  may  well  have  feared  that  his  slaves,  who  one  and  all  hated 
him  from  the  depths  of  their  souls,  would  seize  some  oppor- 
tunity of  launching  him  down  a  precipice.  However  that  may 
have  been,  from  this  time  forward  our  relations  to  each  other 
were  established  on  a  proper  footing,  and  this  remained  a 
precedent  in  all  my  future  dealings  with  the  Waganda. 

After  we  left  Katente,  we  came  into  a  perfectly  desolate 
country.     Not  only  were  the  villages  burnt,  and  the  groves  of 

bananas  destroyed,  the  whole  landscape  was  simply  burnt 
region  of    up,  and  lay  there  a  black  expanse.     By  the  roadsides 

lay  skeletons  and  corpses  still  in  process  of  decom- 
position, poisoning  the  air.  The  sunshine,  which  had  smiled 
over  Usoga,  had  vanished ;  the  heavens  were  for  the  most 
part  covered  with  grey  clouds,  and  the  wind  either  in  fitful 
gusts  whirled  the  black  heaps  of  ashes  up  in  the  air,  or  flung 
sudden  cold  showers  on  the  expedition.  The  carrion  vultures, 
who  were  gorging  themselves  with  the  flesh  of  the  unburied 
corpses,  seemed  to  be  the  only  inhabitants  of  this  land.  Every 
trace  of  human  beings  had  vanished.  An  oppressive  desolation 
filled  our  hearts.  For  even  if  these  impressions  were  not 
powerful  enough  to  shake  our  resolution,  they  could  not  help 
to  have  a  great  influence  on  our  spirits.  Dull  and  almost 
spectrally  echoed  the  roll  of  our  drums  from  the  hills,  as  we 
crossed  the  heights  one  after  another.  "When  we  descended 
A  gloomy  into  the  valleys,  there  would  be  a  brook  or  a  water- 
march,  course  to  pass  over,  whose  broken  bridge  increased 
the  aspect  of  desolation  around  us.  And  who  was  to  warrant 
us  that  from  behind  any  of  the  rocks  on  these  hill  ridges,  over 
which  we  had  to  march,  we  should  not  be  suddenly  greeted  by 


A    WELCOME  REINFORCEMENT.  377 

a  volley  from  the  Arab  followers  of  Karema?  Who  could 
have  deemed  his  own  life  secure  from  one  five  minutes  to 
another,  by  day  or  by  night  ? 

So  we  went  on,  anxious  and  gloomy,  and  joyless  was  the 
time  spent  in  the  dreary  encampment,  which  no  longer  yielded 
us  any  sustenance.  Thus  we  travelled  on,  two  days  more,  past 
Kigogorro  and  Numuyango,  until,  on  February  25th,  the  road 
suddenly  began  to  become  lively  once  more.  In  the 
first  instance,  I  received  on  this  day  the  answer  to  Dr.peters-s 
my  letter  from  Ischioragama,  which  informed  me  that  ^*"*'^' 
the  king  had  given  no  order  whatever  to  stop  me  anywhere. 
On  the  contrary,  he  was  desirous  that  I  should  come  to  him  as 
soon  as  possible. 

The  road,  which  for  the  last  part  of  the  way  had  wound 
round  Murchison  Bay  in  a  north-westerly  direction,  turned 
suddenly  to  the  southward.  At  this  point  some  of  Muanga's 
soldiers  were  stationed,  who  welcomed  us  with  ioyful  . 

.  «•    •'  A  scene  of 

shouts,  presenting  us  with  golden-yellow  bananas,  and  brightness 
pledging  us  in  foaming  drinks  fronj.  mighty  pitchers.  ^^  ^°^' 
We  were  approaching  Kisallosallo,  a  plantation  of  the  king's, 
some  miles  to  the  north  of  the  capital,  Rubaja-Mengo.  From 
all  sides  Muanga's  soldiers  hurried  up ;  their  line  of  outposts 
had  been  pushed  forward  during  the  last  two  days  as  far  as 
Kisallosallo.  We  now  reached  the  place,  and  were  so  far  in 
safety,  since  the  united  fighting  power  of  Muanga  and  my  own 
men  would  be  sufficient  to  stand  against  the  Arabs,  Wanjoros, 
and  the  Mahdi's  followers  from  the  north. 

We  pitched  our  camp  in  Kisallosallo,  and  I  immediately 
sent  messengers  to  the  king,  to  announce  to  him  our  arrival  in 
the  neighbourhood  of  his  capital.  I  learned  that  I  -^^^  ^^ 
should  meet  Muanga  in  the  morning  at  Mengo,  and  King  mu- 
that  the  French  mission  intended  to  transfer  its 
quarters  thither  from  Bulingogwe  on  the  following  night. 
In  the  evening  Muanga's  drum-band  met  us,  to  honour  us  with 
a  tattoo,  and  to  accompany  us  solemnly  on  the  following 
morning  into  the  capital. 

The  early  dawn  found  us,  as  usual,  on  the  march.     A  broad 


378  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

road  led  us  over  two  more  ridges  of  hills,  now  ever  in  a 
southerly  direction ;  from  all  sides  crowds  of  people  came 
hurrying  along,  either  to  offer  us  joyful  greetings  or  in 
respectful  silence  to  watch  us  as  we  marched  by.  To  the  right 
I  noticed  a  line  of  buildings,  which  looked,  from  a 

Approach  .  .  -         , 

to  the  ,  distance,  like  pyramids,  but  were  m  reality  cone- 
capi  a .  ^  g]ja,ped.  I  learned  afterwards  that  they  were  funeral 
monuments  of  Mtesas  and  the  kings  of  the  Wakintu  dynasty. 

Suddenly,  a  handsomely-dressed  servant  of  Muanga's  hurried 
up  to  me,  murmured  a  few  words,  and  vanished  as  swiftly  as 
he  had  appeared.  Marco  informed  me  that  he  brought  a 
message  from  Muanga,  which  expressed  the  anxiety  of  his 
master  to  see  me  at  once.  This  was  repeated  three  or  four 
times. 

A  hill  now  rose  up  before  me,  on  which  I  perceived  some 
buildings.  This,  I  was  told,  was  Mengo.  At  the  bottom  of 
this  hill  we  wheeled  round  towards  the  left  hand,  to  turn  into  a 
banana  grove,  where  a  flourishing  plantation  had  been  set  apart 
for  us  for  our  temporary  abode.  I  quartered  my  soldiers  in  the 
huts,  but  had  the  tents  set  up  for  ourselves,  according  to  my 
custom.  I  then  made  a  hasty  toilet  and  shaved  myself,  ready 
to  present  myself  before  the  king. 

Every  five  minutes  messengers  appeared  from  his  majesty, 
always  repeating  the  same  entreaty,  that  we  would  come  as 
quickly  as  possible, — the  king  was  dying  of  eagerness  to  behold 
us.  This  is  Uganda  courtesy,  with  which  we  were  here  made 
Solemn  pro- acquainted  for  the  first  time.  We  dressed  ourselves, 
cession.  ^^^  ^j^g  soldiers,  with  a  few  selected  porters,  were 
marched  up.  With  the  flag  borne  in  advance,  we  went  slowly 
along  the  wide  road  up  to  Mengo,  to  pay  our  first  greeting  to 
Muanga,  the  Mfalme  and  Kabaka  of  Uganda. 

The  farther  we  advanced  up  the  hill,  the  more  dense  became 
the  throng.  On  the  top  of  the  hill  was  an  enclosed  space,  like 
a  meadow,  into  which  we  entered  through  a  gate.  To  right 
and  left  were  drawn  up  Muanga's  soldiers,  presenting  arms, 
lining  the  approaches  to  an  impromptu  hall  of  audience,  built 
of  reeds.      The   roll   was   beaten    on    European    drums,    and 


MUANGA,  LOURDEL,   GORDON,  AND   WALKER.  379 

trumpets  were  blown,  while  we  passed  slowly  through  the  line 
of  soldiers,  saluting  as  we  went.     At  the  entrance  of  First 
the  hall  my  Somalis  were  drawn  up  on  guard,  and  we  of  Eng^ 
stepped  forward  into  the  closely-packed  area,  filled  with  "^^^.nga. 
the  great  men  of  Uganda,  who  sat  or  stood  against  the  walls  to  the 
right  and  left.     As  soon  as  we  had  come  inside  the  hall  a  man, 
still  young  in  years,  and  dressed  in  complete  European  costume, 
rose  from  a  seat  at  the  far  end  of  the  room.     His  dark  eyes 
were  fixed  on  us  with  a  kindly  look ;  a  dark  beard  surrounded 
his  face,  which  had  quite  an  European   cast.     His  nose   and 
mouth  were  regularly  shaped ;  the  latter  certainly  was  rather 
large,  but  was  remarkable  for  faultlessly  white  and  beautiful 
teeth.     His  whole  appearance  had  in  it  something  which  was, 
at  the  first  glance,  both  agreeable  and  sympathetic.     This  was 
Muanga,  King  of  Uganda,  known  for  a  long  time  past  in  the 
European  press  as  the  "  bloodhound "  Muanga.     He  nie  king's 
wore  a  coat,  trousers,  and  waistcoat  of  black  and  white  ^pv^^'^^^"^- 
check,   which   gave  him   the  look  of  a   well-to-do   European 
gentleman  in  summer  costume. 

"Step  this  way,"  he  said,  in  fluent  Suahili  (Karibu),  ad- 
vancing at  the  same  time  a  few  steps  towa,rds  us  and  pressing 
our  hands.  "  How  are  you  ?  Take  a  seat !  "  pointing  to  two 
chairs  which  had  been  placed  for  us  at  his  right  hand. 

At  this  moment  I  was  addressed  in  French  by  a  gentleman 
whom,  at  the  first  glance,  I  should  not  have  taken  to  Father 
be  an   European.     He   was   dressed  in   a  .long  white  ^<>^^^^^- 
garment,  and  had  a  small  red  cap  on  his  head. 

"  Je  suis  le  pere  Lourdel,  et  je  vous  ai  envoye  des  lettres." 

This,  then,  was  the  Superiorof  the  Catholic  Mission  in  Uganda. 
He  told  me  at  once  that  he  had  only  come  over  from  Bulingogwe 
on  the  previous  night,  and  that  they  had  all,  for  the  moment,  esta- 
blished themselves,  in  a  makeshift  way  for  the  time  being,  round 
Mengo.  Immediately  upon  this,  two  more  Europeans  appeared 
in  the  doorway,  and  greeted  us  in  the  English  language.  ^^  ^^^^^^ 
These  were  Messrs.  Gordon  and  Walker.  During  the  and  M^r. 
formal  ceremony  of  this  reception,  I  witnessed  the 
spectacle  of  my  old  friend  Kamanyiro  Kanta  crawling  on  all 


380  XEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

a 

fours  to  greet  the  king,  according  to  the  ancient  Waganda 
custom ;  his  majesty,  however,  received  the  homage  with  extra- 
ordinary coldness  and  indifference. 

"  I  rejoice,  Muanga,  to  behold  the  Kabaka  of  Uganda,"  were 
the  words  with  which  I  opened  our  conversation.  "  I  have 
Address  to  joumejed  from  the  east  up  the  Tana,  past  Mount 
the  king,  ggj^ja,  and  have  had  to  fight  with  the  Gallas,  the 
Massais,  and  many  others,  and  learned  in  Usoga  that  Emin  Pasha, 
to  whom  I  was  marching,  had  gone  away  with  Stanley,  and  that 
you  were  in  need  of  help  from  Europeans.  Therefore  I  have  come 
across  the  Nile  and  marched  hither  through  your  territory." 

"  I  have  heard  that  you  have  beaten  the  Massais,  and  I  know 
that  the  Germans  understand  war  and  are  all  soldiers.  I  wel- 
come you.  I  am  glad  that  Germans  especially  should  come  to 
visit  my  country.  Now  tell  me  of  your  combats  with  the 
Massais." 

"  The  Massais  are  very  savage,"  I  said,  "  and  are  no  friends 
to  the  white  men.  They  dared  to  make  attacks  on  my  expe- 
Dr.  Peters's  ditiou,  but  we  beat  them  back  four  times,  killed  a 
explanation,  gj-g^t  number  of  them,  burnt  many  of  their  villages, 
and  drove  off  plenty  of  their  herds." 

Muanga  laughed,  well  pleased  at  this  description. 

"  The  white  men  are  not  generally  liked  in  the  east  of  your 
land,"  I  continued.  "  In  Kawirondo,  also,  we  were  obliged  to 
beat  the  Mangati." 

"  That  too  we  have  heard  about  here,"  answered  Muanga. 
"  Where  have  you  your  artillery  ?  " 

"  I  have  left  my  artillery  behind  with  the  Gallas.  Perhaps 
a  second  column  of  my  expedition  will  march  after  me  here,  and 
if  so  I  hope  they  will  bring  my  artillery  with  them  ;  if  they  do 
I  will  make  you  a  present  of  it." 

"  I  thank  you  much,"  he  said.  "  I  hope  you  will  stay  here 
with  me,  and  wait  for  the  second  column.  Anything  that  you 
Muanga's  ^^'i^ti  to  have  in  my  country  shall  be  yours  ;  only  make 
fnendiiness.jjj^Q^jj  yQ^j.  ^ig^gg^  g-ud  Send  direct  to  me  when  there 
is  anything  you  wish  to  have.  I  intend  to  have  a  large  house 
built  for  you  close  to  my  own." 


CONVERSATION  WITH  FATHER  LOURDEL.  381 

"  I  cannot  stay  long  with  you,  because  I  must  go  onward  to 
the  German  colony  on  the  other  side  of  the  lake.  If  you  choose 
to  send  any  message  by  me  to  the  coast,  and  I  can  be  in  any 
way  of  service  to  you,  it  shall  likewise  be  done." 

"  I  should  like  to  send  a  message  by  you  to  the  coast,  but 
we  will  not  speak  of  that  to-day." 

Everything  that  Muanga  said  gave  us  the  impression  of 
quiet,  modest  frankness,  and  when  we  parted  from  him  at  the 
close  of  our  half-hour's  interview  we  carried  away  with  us  the 
most  favourable  impression.  We  had  imagined  him  to  be  a  very 
different  man.  Mr.  Gordon  and  Mr.  Walker  accompanied  us  to 
our  tent,  where,  unfortunately,  I  could  regale  them  with  nothing 
better  than  tea  and  coffee.  Directly  afterwards  Mons.  Lourdel 
appeared,  who  stayed  on  after  the  Englishmen  had  gone  away. 
He  soon  turned  the  conversation  on  the  state  of  affairs  pgre  Lour- 
in  Uganda,  and  gave  me  details  of  the  English  proposals,  ^®^'°  ^*®*°' 
which,  he  said,  had  afterwards  come  to  nothing,  since  Mr. 
Jackson  not  only  never  came  himself,  but  would  not  even  send 
powder  and  ammunition."     I  asked  him, — 

"  Does  the  king  wish  for  any  kind  of  European  Protectorate 
at  all  ?  " 

"  Certainly  not.  Even  during  the  time  of  his  banishment 
from  Uganda,  we  were  only  able,  after  much  persuasion,  to  get 
him  to  enter  upon  any  negotiation  of  the  kind." 

"Well,  then,  he  should  address  himself  to  the  European 
Powers,  with  the  request  that  they  would  constitute  his  land 
neutral  ground,  exactly  as  has  been  done  in  the  case  ^^  p^jgrg's 
of  the  Congo  State.     If  we  could  get  the  Upper  Nile  advice  to 

1j}i6  kin? 

neutralised,  all  the  European  Powers  would  be  equally 
benefited  thereby.      Only   Muanga    would   certainly   then   be 
obliged  to  make  up  his  mind  to  adopt  throughout  his  territory 
certain  universally  recognised  principles  of  international  law." 

"  Do  you  think  that  such  a  proposal  on  Muanga's  part  would 
find  favour  in  Europe  ?  " 

"  That  I  am  unable  to  say.  You  know  that  I  am  sent  out 
by  a  private  German  committee  to  the  relief  of  Emin  Pasha,  to 
whom  I  thought  of  making  a  similar  proposition.     I  have  no 


382  ^TEW  LIGHT  O.V  DARK  AFRICA. 

kind  of  commission  for  Uganda  from  my  committee  ;  I  have 
Offer  to  110  official  Commission  from  Germany  at  all ;  but  if 
posais^to*'  Muanga  is  prepared  to  make  proposals  of  the  kind  to 
Europe.  the  European  Powers,  I  shall  be  very  willing,  for  my 
part,  to  take  charge  of  them  and  deliver  them  there.  First  of 
all,  however,  Muanga  would  have  to  accept  the  articles  of  the 
Congo  Act  for  his  own  territory,  and  to  furnish  guarantees  to 
the  Powers  that  the  slave  trade  and  the  exportation  of  slaves 
shall  be  suppressed  in  his  own  country." 

"  The  king  will  be  very  ready  to  do  that,  for  he  hates  the 
Arabs,  and,  moreover,  cannot  witness  with  satisfaction  the 
dragging  away  of  his  subjects.  Before  we  brought  him  back 
from  Usukuma  to  Uganda,  we  often  held  conversations  with  him 
on  this  subject.  In  the  meantime  we  should  have  to  reckon 
with  the  intrigues  of  the  English  in  carrying  out  such  plans." 

"  I  cannot  understand  what  interest  England  can  have  in 
proclaiming  a  Protectorate  just  here  in  Uganda." 

"  England  wants  the  monopoly  of  trade." 

"  Such  a  thing  is  not  possible  on  the  face  of  it,  since  Uganda 
lies  within  the  zone  of  land  in  which  free  trade  is  established  by 
the  Congo  Act.  A  Protectorate  without  a  monopoly  of  the  kind 
would  only  be  an  expense  to  the  English.  If  Muanga  were  to 
Conflicting  offer  to  US  Germans  the  Protectorate  of  Uganda,  and  I 
interests,  .^^gj-g  ^sked  my  opinion  about  it  in  Germany,  I  do  not 
know  whether  I  should  not  decidedly  advise  the  rejection  of  the 
offer.     England  is  in  exactly  the  same  position." 

Thus  I  came  to  an  agreement  with  Mons.  Lourdel  as  to  the 
plan  of  our  task  on  the  very  first  morning. 

In  the  afternoon,  Herr  von  Tiedemann  and  myself  were 
invited  to  dine  at  the  English  station.  It  was  situated  to  the 
north  of  the  capital,  and  was  naturally  of  a  very  primitive 
description,  as  all  the  former  buildings  had  been  destroyed  in 
the  insurrection ;  but  the  sensation  of  being  once  more  the 
guests  of  Europeans  had  in  it,  to  our  thinking,  something 
extremely  delightful. 

After  the  dinner  Muanga 's  minister,  who  bears  the  title 
Katikiro,  made  his  appearance,  to  hold  some  conversation  with 


DESIGNS  FOR   THE  FUTURE.  383- 

me  on  business.     This  personage  was,  like  all  the  higher  officials 
in  Uganda,  still  quite  a  young  man,  with  a  very  ener-  visit  of  the 
getic  and  crafty  cast  of  features,  which  did  not  make  ^^^■^'^°- 
an  altogether  pleasant  impression.     He  asked  quite  openly, — 

"  What  presents  do  you  intend  to  make  the  king  ?  " 

"I  will  give  him  from  one  hundred  to  one  hundred  and 
twenty  pounds  of  fine  gunpowder,  a  Lancaster  repeating  rifle 
with  fifty  cartridges,  a  thousand  percussion  caps,  and  a  number 
of  small  things  besides,  such  as  soaps,  etc." 

"  And  how  long  do  you  think  of  staying  here  ?  We  are 
hoping  for  a  visit  of  at  least  three  to  four  months.  Karema  has 
posted  himself  in  the  north,  and  may  at  any  moment  attack  the 
capital.  So  long  as  you  are  with  us,  this  will  scarcely  happen, 
for  he  has  already  retreated  northward  on  the  advance  of  your 
expedition.  Then,  too,  the  fugitives  from  our  Christian  parties, 
will  be  coming  back  to  Uganda,  from  all  directions,  and  our 
position  will  be  materially  improved  thereby." 

"  I  regret  that  I  cannot  stay  here  from  three  to  four  montha 
under  any  circumstances.  I  have  no  commission  of  any  kind 
to  tarry  here  in  Uganda  ;  every  day  my  expedition  costs  Q^^ggti^^ 
50  marks  {£2  10s.)  in  wages  for  my  people.  I  am  of  length  of 
prepared  " — (here  I  began  to  make  a  calculation) — "  to 
remain  here  until  March  16th  ;  to-day  is  February  26th, — that 
makes  three  weeks." 

"  This  is  not  the  26th,  but  the  25th  of  February,"  said  the 
English  missionaries. 

"Excuse  me,"  I  said,  opening  my  diary,  "to-day  is  the 
26th  of  February." 

"  Well,  we  make  this  the  25th  of  February,"  said  both  of 
them. 

It  turned  out  afterwards  that  by  some  oversight  we  had 
really  got  a  day  in  advance  in  our  calculations,  and  that  the 
Englishmen  were  right.  I  have,  nevertheless,  always  kept  to 
our  own  reckoning  in  my  previous  account,  because  we  were  no 
longer  able  to  verify  on  which  day  the  disarrangement  of  dates 
had  occurred. 

"Be  that  as  it  may,    we  will    fix   March   16th,  once  for 


384  NEW  LIGH't  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

all,  as  the  day  of  my  departure  from  Uganda.  I  have  not 
enough  ammunition  to  be  able  to  propose  to  the  king  that  I 
should  attack  and  beat  Karema  and  the  Wanjoro  in  the  north. 
If  Karema,  on  the  other  hand,  should  advance  towards  the 
south,  I  should  be  prepared  to  support  Muanga  with  my  whole 
expedition,  and,  if  he  wished  it,  I  would  take  the  com- 

Heoessity  r  '  ' 

for  disci-  mand  of  his  people.  If  I  am  to  do  that,  however,  I 
^"'*'  must  request  that  I  shall  be  allowed  to  drill  the 
soldiers,  and,  above  all,  the  officers  of  his  troops,  every  day  from 
this  time  forward,  so  that  they  may  become  accustomed  to  our 
method  of  fighting." 

After  a  long  consultation,  Katikiro  declared  himself  satisfied 
with  this  agreement,  which,  to  a  certain  extent,  was  concluded 
under  the  guarantee  of  the  English  mission,  and  which  after- 
wards was  accepted  likewise  by  Muanga  and  the  Roman  Catholic 
party.  By  March  16th,  I  was  confidently  assured,  the  boats 
should  be  on  the  spot,  to  transport  me  over  Lake  Victoria  to 
Usukuma. 

On  the  following  day  there  was  another  solemn  reception 
held  by  Muanga,  when  I  presented  him  with  the  gifts  I 
Second  ^^^  brought.  Muauga  was  exceedingly  pleased,  for 
audience  of  the  hundred  pounds  of  powder  enabled  him  to  provide 
five  hundred  of  his  soldiers  once  more  with  ammu- 
nition for  a  fight,  a  thing  that  under  existing  circumstances 
might  be  of  the  greatest  importance  to  the  maintenance  of 
his  throne. 

In  the  afternoon  Herr  von  Tiedemann   and  I,  dressed  in 

uniform,  paid  a  visit  to  the  Catholic  mission.     Here  we  were 

introduced  to  Father  Denoit  by  our  acquaintance  of  the  previous 

day.  Father   Lourdel.     While  Father  Lourdel  was  an 

Visit  to  •' ' 

the  French  extremely  energetic-looking  man,  with  strong  features, 
we  beheld  in  Father  Denoit,  who  may  have  been  about 
thirty  years  of  age,  a  figure  that  recalled  St.  John,  with  a  mild, 
gentle  face,  with  dark  beard,  the  eyes  of  an  enthusiast,  and  a 
very  sensitively-formed  mouth.  Both  of  them  belonged  to  the 
Algerian  Mission,  the  so-called  "  White  Brothers,"  and  Father 
Lourdel  had  been  already  labouring  for  ten  years  in  Uganda. 


THE  CATHOLIC  illSSIONS   ON  LAKE  VICTORIA.  385 

On  my  asking  if  he  did  not  feel  a  longing  to  go  back  once 
again  to  his  home  in  France,  he  replied, — "  We  have  come  here 
to  die ;  we  shall  never  return  to  our  country." 

He  could  have  had  no  foreboding  at  that  time  how  soon 
these  words  of  his  were  to  be  fulfilled.  He  was  accustomed  to 
say  also,  "  Si  nous  sommes  en  bonne  sante  nous  ne  voulons 
pas,  et  si  nous  sommes  malades  nous  ne  pouvons  pas  retourner  " 
("If  we  are  well  in  health  we  will  not,  if  we  are  ill  we  cannot 
return"). 

I  expressed  to  him  my  admiration  of  the  courageous  self- 
sacrifice  shown  by  his  Order.  In  the  years  during  which  that 
Order  had  laboured  by  the  lake  it  had  lost  fifty  per  cent,  of 
its  brethren  by  sickness.    I  said  to  Father  Lourdel, — 

"  People    talk  so   much  of  us  travellers,   of  Emin  Pasha, 
Stanley,  and  others  ;   what  you  are  doing  here  is  in       . 
reality  much  more  heroic,  and  you  do  it  exclusively  for  kmds  of 
your  great  Ideal.     Your  names  are  scarcely  mentioned 
by  us  in  Europe  ;  and  the  ambition  which  urges  others  on  never 
enters  into  your  calculations." 

"  We  expect  to  receive  our  reward  after  death,  if  the  Lord 
wills  it  so." 

I  have  learned  to  know  the  work  of  this  Catholic  mission, 
everywhere  round  about  the  lake,  in  Uganda,  on  the  Sesse 
Islands,  and  Usukuma,  and  I  must  express  my  sincere  admira- 
tion for  the  achievements  of  these  men.  For  the  very  reason 
that  they  have  taken  on  themselves  the  vows  of  poverty, 
obedience,  and  chastity,  because  they  may  not  possess  ihorough- 
any  property  of  their  own,  nor  ever  look  forward  to  cathoUo 
returning  permanently  to  their  homes,  they  have  ™""°"s- 
a  double  interest  in  making  their  stations  as  comfortable  as 
possible ;  and  as  they  receive  very  little  assistance  from 
Europe,  they  are  compelled  to  develop,  to  the  utmost  of  their 
power,  the  natural  advantages  of  the  country.  As  the  Protes- 
tant missionaries  on  Lake  Victoria  really  work  there  only 
temporarily  for  salaries,  and  since  they  have  before  them  the 
desire  of  returning,  sooner  or  later,  to  England,  and  after  that 
of  finding  some  little  provision  awaiting  them  in  London,  they 

'2r, 


386  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

are  themselves  less  identified  with  the  mission,  they  do  not 
take  root  in  the  land  in  the  same  way,  and  consequently  cannot 
be  of  so  much  use  to  the  country.  What  I  have  seen  of  the 
English  missions  shows  them  to  be  behind  the  French  ones 
in  every  particular.  The  Catholics  have  everywhere  large 
and  convenient  houses,  covered  by  far -projecting  roofs,  with 
pillared  verandahs,  which  enable  the  inhabitants  to  protect 
themselves  from  the  heat  of  the  sun,  and  to  take  bodily  exer- 
cise even  in  rainy  weather.  At  these  mission  stations  I  found, 
everywhere  I  went,  gardens,  in  which  not  only  tropical  vege- 
tables,   but   all   kinds   of    European    vegetables   were   grown. 

While  the  English  missionaries  were  obliged  to  live 
means  of    just  as  the  uatives  do  as  to  food,  the  Roman  Catholics 

enjoyed  European  potatoes,  bread  and  butter,  cheese, 
which  they  made  themselves,  brandy  manufactured  from  burnt 
bananas,  colerabi,  turnips,  greens  of  all  kinds,  pineapples,  oranges, 
and  other  fruits  for  dessert.  While  the  English  lived  in  badly- 
built  houses,  every  Roman  Catholic  Father  or  Brother  had  his 
own  cool  whitewashed  room,  and  they  assembled  for  their  meals 
in  a  pleasant  refectory.  As  they  cannot  obtain  any  European 
labour  in  the  country,  and  yet  wish  to  establish  theinselves 
comfortably  there,  they  are  obliged,  as  indeed  they  are  en- 
joined to  do  by  the  rules  of  their  Order,  to  use  all  possible  care 
Mechanical  ^°  training  their  people  to  work.  If  they  want  to  have 
ingenuity   tables,   chairs,  kitchen  utensils,  they  must  get  them 

developed.  ',         ,       '.  .,  ,       /  /  ,  „ 

made  by  their  pupils,  and  they  have,  therefore,  a 
particular  interest  in  teaching  the  people  to  make  these  articles 
properly.  Hence  again  the  system  of  freres,  or  brothers,, 
serving  for  this  purpose,  is  also  especially  practical,  one  or 
more  of  them  are  attached  to  each  station.  A  settlement  of 
industrious  and  skilled  workmen  is  formed  in  this  way  by 
means  of  the  Catholic  mission,  which  consequently  exerts  a 
most  beneficial  influence  upon  its  surroundings,  and  upon  the 
whole  land. 

It  is  true  that  on  February  27th  there  was  not  much  to 
be  seen  of  the  Catholic  station  in  Uganda.  It  had  been 
destroyed  by  the  Arab  faction,  and  only  the  foundation  walls 


PRTVATE  INTEBVIEW   WfTIT  KIXG    MUAMrA.  387 

were  left  standing.     Mons.  Lourdol,  like  all  the  rest,  had  been 
obliged  to  domicile  himself  in  a  makeshift  lasliion,  and 
received  me  in  a  hall  surrounded  by  a  fence.     Here  we  Mers 
partook   of  tea,  to   which   Monseigneur    Lourdel   con-  ^'''"'"■ 
tributed  a  tin  of  sardines  in  oil,  a  rare  treat  for  us,  and  one 
which  recalled  memories  of  our  distant  home. 

From  the  Catholic  Mission  we  returned,  under  the  convoy 
of  Mons.  Lourdel,  to  King  Muanga.     I  was  desirous,  as  soon  as 


A  Missionary  at  the  Plough. 


possible,  to  convert  the  arrangements  which  I  had  drawn  up  the 
day  before,  in  concert  with  Lourdel,  into  accomplished  facts, 
and  for  that  purpose  I  had  asked  for  a  private  interview  with 
the  King  of  Uganda.  We  found  Muanga,  attended  by  only  a 
few  of  his  followers,  sitting  in  a  room  of  one  of  his  houses, 
which  sprang  up  like  mushrooms  in  daily  increasing  numbers. 
Access  is  gained  to  the  interior  of  the  palace  through  a  ^.     „ 

~      _  J  ~    _      King  Mu- 

perfect  labyrinth  of  courts,  passages,  and  gateways,  in  anga's 
which  it  is  customary  to  station  the  soldiers  of  ^^  ^'^' 
Uganda  by  day  and  night.     Close  by  are  buildings  erected  for 


388  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

the  king's  women  and  for  Ms  other  court  attendants.  The 
whole  place  produced  upon  me  an  impression  such  as  I  always 
associated  in  imagination  with  the  court  of  Attila  in  Hungary. 
All  the  buildings  are  of  unplaned  wood,  but  their  spaciousness, 
and  the  great  number  of  the  rooms,  give  them  an  appearance  of 
grandeur  and  suitability. 

When  we  entered  Muanga's  presence,  he,  at  my  request, 
dismissed  all  his  servants,  and,  without  my  asking  him,  he  sent 
Private  iuto  the  adjoining  rooms  to  see  if  there  were  any 
wit-hth7  persons  there  who  might  overhear  our  conversation, 
^■^g'  P^re  Lourdel  then  whispered  my  proposal  in  the  ears  of 
Muanga,  whereupon  Muanga  took  hold  of  Lourdel  by  the  ear 
that  he  might  in  turn  whisper  his  reply.  The  result  of  this 
somewhat  singular  interview  was  Muanga's  declaration  : — 

"  If  the  Doctor  will  carry  my  message  to  Europe,  I  am  willing 
to  make  a  treaty  with  him,  in  which  I  resign,  in  favour  of  the 
Germans  and  the  other  Europeans,  the  right  of  the  Mfalme  that 
the  people  of  Uganda  may  only  travel,  carry  on  trade,  and 
build  houses  by  his  permission.  I  am  also  prepared  to  sell  my 
Muanga's  ivory  to  noue  but  the  German  Company,  if  they  will 
declaration. gypp][y  jj^g  jj^  exchange  with  powder  and  ammunition. 
I  will  be  the  servant  of  no  European.  They  shall  all  have 
■equal  rights  in  my  country,  but  I  prefer  to  conclude  friendship 
with  the  great  Sultan  of  the  Germans  alone.  If  the  Doctor  will 
•draw  up  a  treaty  to  this  effect,  I  will  sign  it,  and  I  will  see  that 
all  my  chiefs  put  their  names  to  it  too." 

This  was  exactly  what  I  was  aiming  at.  If  I  succeeded  in 
binding  the  King  of  Uganda  to  such  promises,  I  believed  that  I 
.should  do  great  service  to  the  whole  European  cause. 

Everyone  who  reads  the  accounts  of  travel  in  Uganda 
knows  what  restrictions  on  their  freedom  of  movement  are 
encountered  by  Europeans  in  this  country.  Felkin  and  Stanley, 
Emin  Pasha  and  Juncker,  have  all  experienced  this.  If  the  king 
accepted  the  principles  of  the  Congo  Act,  the  country  would  for 
the  first  time  be  really  thrown  open  to  European  traffic.  And 
that  must  be  to  the  common  advantage  of  all  the  nations  who 
have  any  interests  on  the  coast  territory. 


TREATY   WITH  KING  MUANGA.  389 

I  immediately  repaired  to  my  tent  with  Mons.  Lourdel,  and 
proposed  to  him  the  following  draft  of  the  treaty,  which,  with  a 
few  alterations  in  the  style,  susreested  by  Lourdel,  has 
been  retained.      I  he  treaty  was  drawn  up  m  French,  in  a  treaty 
the  language  of  Kiganda  and  in  Kiswahili,  and  it  was  p'^'p*'^^*- 
afterwards  signed  in  all  three  languages.     I  have  inserted  it  in 
the  appendix  in  the  French  and  Kiganda  text ;  and  I  subjoin 
here  a  verbatim  translation  : — 

"Mengo,  Feb.  28th,  1890. 

"  Between  King  Muanga,  Kabaka  of  Buganda,  and  Dr.  Carl 
Peters,  the  following  preliminary  treaty  has  been  agreed 
upon  : — 

"  The  King  Muanga  accepts  the  decrees  of  the  Berlin  Treaty 
(Congo  Act)  of  February  1885,  so  far  as  they  have  reference 
to  Buganda  and  its  tributary  countries.  He  throws  open  these 
countries  to  the  subjects  of  His  Majesty  the  German  Emperor 
as  to  all  other  Europeans.  He  guarantees  to  the  subjects  of  His 
Majesty  the  German  Emperor,  as  to  all  other  Europeans  who 
may  wish  to  avail  themselves  of  it,  entire  freedom  of  trade,  and 
the  right  of  travel  and  settlement  in  Buganda  and  all  tributary 
states. 

"  King  Muanga  enters  into  friendship  with  His  Majesty  the 
German  Emperor,  and   receives  for   his  subjects  per-  Articles 
mission  to  trade,  with  the  right  of  free  passage  and  of  pga^'nja 
settlement  in   all   the  territories  of  His  Majesty   the  treaty. 
German  Emperor. 

"  Dr.  Carl  Peters  undertakes  to  propose  the  ratification  of  this 
preliminary  treaty  to  the  German  government. 

"  This  treaty  is  drawn  up  in  Kiganda,  Kiswahili,  and  French. 
In  case  of  any  disputed  interpretation,  the  French  text  alone 
shall  be  considered  as  binding." 

On  the  following  day,  February  •28th,  we  finished  the  three 
drafts  of  this  treaty ;  and  on  March  1st  I  went  again  to 
Muanga  with  Mons.  Lourdel,  and  was  received  by  the  king  in 
his  cabinet  council.  He  had  with  him  his  two  ministers, 
Cyprian,  the  minister  of  his  household,  called  Kanta,  the  real 


390  XEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

minister  of  state,  Katikiro,  with  a  few  other  great  men.  I  laid 
Interview  before  them  the  principal  heads  of  the  treaty,  explaining 
•with  the    ^Q  them   that   since    Uganda   had   become   Christian, 

ministers  ^  -it 

of  state,  and  the  Christian  party  was  here  in  the  .ascendant, 
it  was  necessary  to  frame  the  treaty  in  its  general  particulars 
according  to  European  principles. 

"  The  European  powers,"  I  continued,  "  in  a  treaty  which 
was  concluded  in  Berlin  in  1885,  have  come  to  an  agreement 
concerning  certain  general  principles  of  law  respecting  Africa. 
I  wish  to  see  these  accepted  also  by  the  Waganda,  and  I  have 
accordingly  drawn  up  the  following  treaty,"  which  I  then  caused 
to  be  read  aloud  in  the  Kiganda  language.  "  I  now  call  upon 
you  to  sign  it." 

The  king  and  Cyprian  Kanta  signed  immediately,  after 
Muanga  had  declared  that  he  wished  to  enter  into  the  same 
Signing  of  relation  to  the  European  powers  as  that  in  which  the 
the  treaty,  g^^^an  of  Zanzibar  stood  towards  them. 

The  Katikiro,  the  leader  ■  of  the  English  party  in  Uganda, 

refused  to  affix  his  signature,  saying  that  he  wished 

Katikiro's  first  to  talk  over  the  affair  with  Messrs.  Gordon  and 

refusal.        --.y   ,, 

Walker. 

This  brought  the  whole  matter  to  its  second  stage.  The 
refusal  of  Katikiro  had  now  made  a  conflict  necessary,  to  bring 
the  treaty  to  a  full  recognition  by  the  government  of  Uganda. 

I  was  the  more  determined  to  carry  the  matter  through, 
when  in  Uganda  the  great  importance  of  these  countries  from  a 
political  and  commercial  point  of  view  became  abundantly  clear 
to  me.  Ivory  comes  pouring  in,  to  Uganda,  in  the  form  of 
tribute,  and  as  an  article  of  trade  to  be  exchanged  for  food  and 
other  things,  from  all  the  states  to  the  north  and  west  of  Lake 
im  ortaut  ^i^toria,  as  far  as  the  Albert  Nyanza,  to  be  despatched 
trade  of  from  Uganda  across  Lake  Victoria  to  Tabora  and  the 
coast.  A  good  part  of  the  trade  of  Uganda,  which  cannot 
indeed  be  calculated,  but  which  anyone  who  understands  African 
aff"airs  may  estimate  from  the  fact  that  from  sixty  to  eighty 
Arabs  have  settled  in  this  country,  has  to  do  with  the  customs 
levied  along  the  coast  by  the  German  trading  company.    The 


TRAFFIC  ON  THE   VICTORIA   NYANZA.  391 

same  thing  is  shown  by  the  quantities  of  European  weapons,  of 
ammunition,  stuifs,  manufactured  ivory,  and  other  articles  to  be 
found  in  Uganda.  For  all  these  articles  have  come,  in  the  last 
place,  from  the  coast  and  from  Zanzibar,  to  be  sold  in  exchange 
for  ivory.  The  Arabs  in  Uganda  cultivated  the  closest  relations 
with  their  co-religionists  in  Tabora,  and  carried  on,  as  „ 

o  '  '  Prooeed- 

factors,  the  exchange  of  goods  between  that  place  and  ings  of  the 
Uganda,  and  indeed  beyond  Uganda  to  the  north.  As 
I  was  able  to  ascertain,  gunpowder  was  carried  to  Unjoro  by 
means  of  the  Kimbulus  in  Busiba  (Karague),  and,  as  I  was  told 
in  Uganda,  even  to  the  Mahdi  himself.  The  whole  traffic, 
therefore,  of  the  Victoria  Nyanza  lies  in  the  Tabora  trade  ;  and 
all  great  commercial  and  political  disturbances  in  Uganda  must 
accordingly  make  themselves  felt  immediately  in  the  traffic  and 
barter  on  the  coast,  and  also  in  the  revenue  drawn  from  the 
customs  of  Bagamoyo  and  Dar-es-Salam.  The  Uganda  ivory 
filters  through  a  thousand  channels,  apart  from  the  direct  expor- 
tation of  the  pm'chased  goods  across  the  lake  to  the  south.  It 
is  the  great  medium  of  exchange  for  these  regions,  and  passes 
perhaps  through  six,  seven,  or  even  more  hands  before  it  reaches 
Tabora  or  Irangi,  where  the  Arabs  have  likewise  settled ;  and 
arriving  at  the  coast,  is  absorbed  into  the  commerce  of  the 
world.  This  internal  trade  is  engaged  in,  among  others,  by  the 
inhabitants  of  the  island  of  Bukerebe,  whose  carvans  of  traders  I 
have  seen  myself  both  in  Busiba  and  also  in  Usukuma.  They 
pay  with  fish  and  articles  of  iron,  which  they,  on  their  side, 
exchange  again  in  Usukuma.  I  think  that  in  estimat-  j^po^tant 
ing  the  political  and  commercial  affairs  of  East  Africa  ^^^^^^^t'' 
too  little  stress  is  laid  on  this  internal  trade  among  the 
tribes.  In  it  lies  the  chief  investment  of  the  slave  trade.  But 
there  is  another  series  of  products,  which  have,  as  it  seems, 
been  exchanged  for  centuries  between  tribe  and  tribe.  Thus 
Usukuma  supplies  hoes  and  iron  goods  to  the  tribes  as  far  as 
Usoga.  We  sometimes  met  caravans  coming  from  the  south- 
east, as  we  were  marching  through  the  steppes.  When  I  asked 
them,  "  Where  to  ? "  they  answered,  "  We  are  going  to 
Usukuma."     "  What  do  you  want  there  ?  "  "  We  want  to  buy 


392  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

hoes  "  (yembe).  In  this  way  it  is  that  the  barter  trade  of 
Uganda  along  the  coast  defies  all  direct  calculation.  It  can 
probably  be  ascertained  only  in  Uganda  itself.  But  the  facts 
-which  I  have  mentioned  above  leave  no  doubt  of  its  importance 
as  a  whole. 

As  Uganda  is  entirely  shut  off  from  any  approach  from  the 
east,  the  promotion  of  traffic  in  Uganda,  which  I  had  most  urgently 
pressed  upon  Muanga,  would  in  the  first  place  be  of  the  greatest 
advantage  to  traders  from  the  German  territory,  but  would  in 
the  end  be  of  service  to  every  nation  that  desired  to  enter 
Arbitrary  iuto  any  Undertaking  in  these  countries, — among  others 
by  the*'°"°  especially  to  Mr.  Stokes,  whose  agents  I  had  met  in 
idngs.  various  places  round  the  lake,  and  to  the  English 
missionaries,  who  after  the  ratification  of  this  treaty  were 
preserved  from  the  fate  which  had  often  befallen  them  before, 
namely,  from  being  forbidden  by  the  king,  for  months  at  a 
time,  to  leave  their  houses,  even  to  take  a  walk,  which  had 
happened  to  Messrs.  Gordon  and  Walker ;  or  from  being  sud- 
denly banished  from  the  kingdom,  as  Mr.  Mackay  had  been ; 
and  from  many  similar  restrictions  of  personal  freedom. 

I  was  therefore  the  more  surprised  when  Mr.  Gordon  and 
Mr.  Walker,  who  dined  with  me  on  the  evening  of  March  lOth, 

ob'ections  ^^^^  ^^  ^^^*  ^^^^  must  dispute   Muanga's   right  of 
of  Gordon    entering  into  negotiations  with  a  third  power,  since  he 

and  Walker  c^  o  r  '  ^ 

had  already  placed  himself  under  British  protection. 
On  the  other  hand,  this  objection  certainly  gave  me  a  welcome 
opportunity  of  formally  and  definitely  bringing  the  affair  to 
a  conclusion. 

I  therefore  wrote,  putting  a  formal  question  to  King 
Muanga.  The  English  had  told  me,  I  said,  that  he  was  de- 
jjj,  pg^g^j.g  pendent  upon  the  British  East  Africa  Company,  and 
letter  to     had  uo  longer  the  right  to  conclude  treaties  with  any 

other  persons.  Before  I  could  proceed  further  in  the 
affair,  I  must  first  know  how  this  matter  stood,  as  I  had  no 
intention  of  carrying  an  invalid  treaty  back  to  Europe.  I  must 
beg  that  not  only  Muanga,  but  also  the  great  men  of  the 
country,  would  declare  whether  they  were  dependent  (watuma— 


DR.  PEIERS'S  SPEECH  IN  THE  COUNCIL.  393 

slaves)  on  the  English,  or  ^Yhether  the  king  had  still  the  same 
right  as  that  enjoyed  by  Mtesa. 

Meanwhile,  on  March  2nd,   the  treaty  was  signed  in  the 
house  of  Mons.  Lourdel,  and  afterwards  in  my  tent,  by  all  the 
great  men  and  governors  of  provinces  of  the  Catholic  Great  as- 
party,  who  formed  the  majority  in  the  country.     On  ceSdnytte 
the  morning  of  March  3rd  Muanga  assembled  a  state  ^^^^^■y- 
council,  to  which  were  invited  all  the  great  men  of  the  land,  and 
also  the  princesses  of  the  house  of  Wakintu,  as  many  of  them, 
namely,  as  had  escaped  the  murderous  hands  of  Karema.     I  was 
the  last  man  to  arrive.     The  two  Englishmen  did  not  know 
what  was  the  business  on  hand.    Muanga  first  disposed  of  a 
number  of  less  important  matters   of  state,   appointments   of 
governors,  and  so  on.     Then  I  rose,  and  spoke  to  the  following 
eifect : — 

"  I  have  come  hither,  at  your  request,  to  help  you  against 
the  Arabs.  I  have  become  Muanga's  friend  and  yours.  We  are 
all  Christians  ;  we  all  know  the  words  of  Jesus  and  love  them  ; 
the  white  men  and  the  Waganda  are  quite  the  same.  It  is 
necessary,  therefore,  that  the  Waganda  should  acknowledge  the 
same  things  to  be  right  towards  us  white  men,  which  we  in  our 
countries  acknowledge  to  be  right  towards  them.  When  people 
from  Uganda  wish  to  come  to  Germany,  they  could  travel,  and 
live,  and  carry  on  their  trade  wherever  they  choose  ;  and  they 
can  do  the  same  if  they  go  to  France  or  to  England.  I  demand 
that  you  Waganda  should  grant  the  same  right  to  us  Europeans  ; 
not  to  us  Germans  only,  but  to  all  Europeans,  to  whatever 
nation  they  may  belong.    Muanga  has  declared  himself  fuu  free- 

.,,.  •'  .       •'  ,  .    ,  1    ■         11       ti/tj.  I- J-         dom  of  resi- 

wilhng  to  give  up  the  right  claimed  by  Mtesa,  or  tor-  aenee  for 
bidding  the  white  men  to  travel  or  trade  in  Uganda,'"^"'  "'''• 
or  of  banishing  them  out  of  the  country  whenever  he  likes. 
He  has  concluded  a  treaty  with  me  to  this  effect.  In  this 
treaty  he  asks  for  the  friendship  of  the  great  Emperor  of  the 
Germans.  Now  the  Englishmen  who  are  sitting  here  by  me 
come  to  me  and  say,  Muanga  and  the  Waganda  have  no  longer 
any  right  at  all  to  make  such  treaties;  they  say  that  the 
Waganda  have  become  the  slaves  of  the  English.     Therefore 


394  yEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

I  ask  the  question  of  you  Waganda — Have  the  Englishmen 
spoken  what  is  the  truth  ?  Then  I  will  tear  up  the  treaty. 
Or  have  they  spoken  what  is  not  the  truth  ?  Then  declare  it 
now  openly." 

These  words  called  forth  such  a  storm  of  indignation  against 
the   Englishmen    from    the    whole   assembly   of   the 

Excitement  5^,  ^„  _„  ,.,  inii 

in  the  Waganda  that  I  feared  for  a  moment  it  would  lead 
assembly.  ^^  ^^^^  ^^  violence.  Then  Muanga  sprang  up  from  his 
throne  and  said,  addressing  himself  particularly  to  Messrs. 
Gordon  and  Walker, — 

"  You  have  heard  what  Dottore  Patasi  has  said.  Now  tell  me 
yourselves  whether  his  words  are  true  ;  whether  you  really  did 
go  to  him  and  tell  him  what  he  has  stated,  or  not." 

A  little  taken  aback,  Mr.  Gordon  now  explained  that 
certainly  the  king  had  accepted  the  flag  of  the  British  East 
African  Company,  and  that  that  was  the  same  thing 
don's  ex-  as  accepting  the  British  Protectorate.  Such,  at  least, 
p  ana  ion.  ^^^  their  interpretation  of  it,  and  that  was  what 
they  had  told  me. 

To  this  Muanga  made  answer, — 

"  You  all  know  that  when  we  were  on  the  island  of  Lake 
Victoria,  we  sent  messengers  both  to  Stanley  and  to  Mr.  Jackson, 
Mnan  a's  ^^y^^S'  '^ome  and  help  us,  and  we  will  accept  the  English 
plain  flag,  and  grant  to  the  English  a  monopoly  of  trade  in 
speec  .  Ugaiicia.'  The  Englishman  alone  was  to  be  allowed  to 
trade  in  Uganda.  Bring  me  back  upon  Mtesa's  throne,  and  it 
shall  be  as  I  have  written.  What  happened  then  ?  Stanley, 
who  came  from  Unjoro  with  Amdallemin,  refused  to  listen  to 
the  entreaties  of  his  Christian  brothers,  and  made  a  wide  circuit 
round  Uganda.  Mr.  Jackson,  who  had  been  staying  with  many 
soldiers  for  a  long  time  in  Kawirondo,  not  only  did  not  come 
himself  to  our  assistance,  but  .did  not  send  a  single  cartridge  or 
a  handful  of  gunpowder  to  help  us ;  and  now  the  Englishmen 
say  that  because  Mr.  Jackson  sent  me  his  flag  in  a  parcel  I  must 
consider  myself  to  be  under  British  protection.  The  only  people 
who  have  come  to  our  aid  are  the  Doctor  and  the  Germans 
(Badutschi).     If  I  placed  my  land  under  any  one's  protection, 


OFFER   OF  ASSISTANCE  AGAINST  KIMBULU.  395 

it  would  be  under  that  of  the  great  Emperor  of  the  Germans. 
But  I  will  remain  like  Mtesa,  I  will  belong  to  no  one.     They 
shall  all  be   welcome  in   Uganda.     If  the  Germans  desire  to 
•come,  let  them  come  ;  if  the  French  wish  to  come,  let  common 
them  come  ;  if  the  English  wish  to  come  (and  you  can  Ilf  e^/o-'' 
write  this  to  Mr.  Jackson),  and  wish  to  have  the  same  p^^°'' 
right  as  the  Germans,  they  shall  be  equally  welcome.     But  if 
they  wish  to  '  eat  up '  my  land,  I  will  make  war  upon  them,  for 
we  Waganda  will  be  free,  and  I  will  remain  what  Mtesa  was." 

This  speech  was  received  with  what  in  Europe  we  should 
call  "enthusiastic  applause,"  in  which  the  whole  assembly 
joined,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  leaders  of  the  English 
party. 

Every  one  sprang  up  and  pressed  forward  to  shake  Muanga 
by  the  hand. 

I  then  rose  for  the  second  time. 

"  I  have  heard  your  words,  0  King  !  and  I  see  that  you  and 
jour  chiefs  are  agreed,  and  I  know  that  you  and  all  your  chiefs 
will  sign  the  treaty.  Hear  now  what  I  intend  to  do  to  show 
jou  that  1  am  really  the  friend  of  the  Waganda.  I  hear, 
Muanga,  that  to  the  west  of  Lake  Victoria  there  are  still  Dr.  Peters 
■enemies,  allies  of  Karema,  who  refuse  to  pay  you  the  figh^t°°^^ 
tribute  which  they  owe.  I  am  told  that,  in  Busiba  par-  ^imbuiu. 
ticularly,  there  is  Kimbulu,  who  gets  gunpowder  from  Unyan- 
jembe  for  your  enemies  in  Unjoro.  If  you  want  to  make  war 
in  the  north,  you  must  first  of  all  have  the  whole  south  in  your 
power.  I  am  ready  to  help  you  to  do  this.  Give  me  some 
boats  and  a  few  men,  and  I  will  force  the  people  of  Busiba  to 
acknowledge  you,  Muanga,  as  their  lord,  to  pay  you  tribute,  and 
banish  Kimbulu  out  of  the  countl-y.  In  this  way  I  think  to 
secure  for  you  a  safe  communication  with  our  German  colony 
•and  with  your  friends  the  Christians  on  the  coast." 

The  king  laughed  aloud  for  joy  when  I  had  ended  my 
speech,  and  the  other  Waganda,  including  Gabriel,  the  com- 
mander of  the  Waganda  troops,  came  up  to  thank  me  for  my 
offer.  Then  Muanga  rose  once  more  and  repeated,  "  that  all 
may  know  it," — 


396  KEW  LIGHT  O.V  DARK  AFRICA. 

"  I  am  the  son  of  Mtesa,  and  what  Mtesa  was  in  Uganda 
that  will  I  also  continue  to  be,  and  against  every  one  who  will 
not  have  it  so  I  will  make  war." 

He  then  turned  round  suddenly  and  disappeared 
assembly  through  a  door  at  the  back  of  the  hall  into  his  private 
dismissed.  a^pg^j.|.jQg^j-g^  thus  putting  an  end  to  the  sitting. 

Upon  this  the  stream  of  people,  led  by  M.  Lourdel,  rushed 

to  the  house  of  the  Katikiro,  the  leader  of  the  English  party. 

I  preferred  to  take  no  part  in  this  assembly,  by  which 

Katikiro's  Katikiro  was  to  be  forced  to  add  his  signature,  and  I 

°^^^'       withdrew  to  my  tent.     The  crowd  meanwhile  demanded 

of  Katikiro  that  he  should  either  sign  the  treaty  or  resign. 

In  the  afternoon  Messrs.  Gordon  and  Walker  came  to  me 
and  informed  me  that  the  deputation  had  very  nearly  come  to 
blows,  and  that  the  temper  of  the  people  had  been  inflamed 
to  such  a  degree  that  they  feared  the  evening  might  witness 
a  general  butchery. 

"  Show  us  the  treaty,"  they  said  ;  "  we  will  read  it,  and  then 
decide  what  we  ought  to  do." 

They  then  at  once  read  the  text,  and  it  was  Mr.  Walker  who 
said  to  Gordon,  "  I  really  think  we  should  get  our  people  to 
sign  to  the  affair." 
I  answered, — 

"  You  must  know  best  what  attitude  you  ought  to  take  up. 
I  attach  no  importance  to  the  signature  of  the  chiefs,  because 
Expiana-  the  king's  name  legally  binds  Uganda  with  regard  to 
other  states.  Moreover,  in  case  of  any  collision 
between  the  two  parties,  which  I  should  extremely 
deplore,  and  which  I  am  resolved  to  endeavour  to  prevent,  I 
offer  you  a  refuge  in  my  camp.  For  my  own  part,  I  shall  give 
orders  to  fire  on  whichever  party  fires  the  first  shot." 

I  then  wrote  at  once  the  following  letter  for  Mons.  Lourdel : — 

"  Mengo  Rubaga,  Mars  Uh,  1890, 
"  BiEN  CHEE  Monsieur, — J'apprends  que    les   deux   parties 
chretiennes  vont  faire  guerre  entre  elles-m6mes. 

"  Je  crois  que  ceci  sera  la  fin  de  la  dyHastie,  par  ce  qu'il 


tion  to  tlie 
mission- 
aries. 


DR.   PETERS'8  LETTER   TO  MONS.   LOURDEL.  397 

enforcerait  k  FAngleterre  la  necessite  d'une  occupation,  et  je  suis 
sur  que   vous  ferez   tout  ce  qu'est   dans  votre  puis- Letter  to 
sance    pour   pacifier    les    coeurs  de    nos    hommes    et  ™- ^''°'^**'- 
emp^cher  des  actes  de  violence. 

"  J'expecte  avec  beaucoup  d'interet  la  reponse  du  roi  sur  ma 
proposition. 

"  Veuillez  agreer,  mon  cher  monsieur,  les  sentiments  les  plus 
respectueux  de  votre  serviteur 

"  Carl  Petees," 


(TRANSLATION.) 

"  Mengo  Rubaga,  March  ith,  1890. 

"  Dear  Sir, — I  am  informed  that  the  two  Christian  factions 
are  on  the  point  of  commencing  hostilities  against  each  other. 

"  I  think  that  this  would  be  the  end  of  the  dynasty,  because 
it  would  force  upon  England  the  necessity  of  an  occupation.  I 
am  convinced  that  you  will  do  all  in  your  power  to  tranquillise 
the  minds  of  your  people  and  to  prevent  any  outbreak  of 
violence. 

"  I  await  with  much  interest  the  answer  of  the  king  to  my 
proposal. 

"  I  am,  dear  Sir, 

"  Respectfully  and  faithfully  yours, 

"  Carl  Peters." 


On  the  evening  of  this  day,  all  the  great  men  of  the  English 
party,  with  the  Katikiro  at  their  head,  came  and  signed  the 
treaty.  On  the  other  hand,  I  received  a  reassuring  communica- 
tion from  M.  Lourdel,  to  the  effect  that  they,  the  missionaries, 
were  there  to  do  the  works  of  peace,  and  not  of  war,  and  that  it 
was  a  matter  of  course  that  they  would  make  every  effort  in 
their  power  to  secure  peace  ;  which  indeed  was  not  in  any  way 
threatened,  as  no  one  meditated  resorting  to  acts  of  violence. 

The  conclusion  of  my  letter  referred  to  a  proposal  which  I 
had  laid  before  the  king  on  March  3rd,  in  which  I  urged  him  to 


398  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

place  his  admiral,  the  Djumba,  at  my  disposal,  in  order  to 
get  together  as  many  boats  as  possible  among  the  Sesse 
Boats  re-  Islands,  for  the  projected  expedition  to  the  west  of 
thf expedi- the  lake.  To  give  this  affair  more  importance,  I 
tion.  wished  to  send  Herr  von  Tiedemann  also  to  Sesse, 
where  he  would  find  safe  quarters  with  Monseigneur  Livinhac 
in  the  French  mission  station. 

At  the  same  time  I  drew  up  a  short  report,  to  the  German 
general  consulate  in  Zanzibar,  of  the  proceedings  in  Uganda, 
and  the  treaty  which  I  had  concluded,  and  despatched  it  direct 
to  Usukuma,  by  a  boat  which  the  king  had  given  me  for  the 
purpose.  My  own  sentiments  during  this  time  are  shown  in  a 
letter  addressed  to  Dr.  Arendt,  written  at  the  same  time,  and 
sent  with  the  report  across  Lake  Victoria  : — 

"RuBAGA  IN  Uganda,  March  7th,  1890. 

"Dear  Arendt, — You  will,  I  daresay,  have  received  the 

telegraphic  communication  that  my  expedition  had  penetrated 

to  the  boundaries  of  Emin  Pasha's  territory,  when  I  received 

the  information  of  his  departure  iust  in  time  to  be  able 

Letter  to  i  n  i  tt         j 

Herr  to  tum  to  the  south-west  and  march  to  Uganda. 
Arendt.  g^^ictly  Speaking,  I  had  perfectly  fulfilled  my  mission 
in  Wachore's  capital,  for,  as  Emin  Pasha  could  testify,  there  was 
no  longer  any  difficulty  in  advancing  from  thence  to  Fauvera, 
where  Emin  once  had  a  station.  At  this  present  time  I  am 
not  very  far  away  from  Mwutan-Nzige,  and  could  betake  myself 
thither  at  any  moment  if  Emin  Pasha  were  still  there,  instead 
of  the  Mahdi  and  the  rebels  of  the  Equatorial  Province.  Emin 
Pasha,  or  Stanley,  or  Dr.  Felkin,  or  indeed  any  one  acquainted 
with  the  affairs  of  these  localities  would  be  able  to  confirm  this 
statement  for  me.  In  any  other  country  I  could  do  without 
such  a  confirmation,  since  I  myself  know  better  than  anyone 
else  with  what  tension  of  nerve  this  result  was  attained.  In 
Germany,  I  am  anxious  to  have  some  such  certificate  to  prove 
that  I  have  accomplished  my  task  like  an  honest  man. 

"  Without  assuming  to  tell  you  anything  new,  I  may  also 


DR.  PETERS'S  LETTER   TO  DR.   ARENDT.  399 

make  the  following  statement.  Three  times  during  my  expedi- 
tion the  English  have  crossed  my  path  ;  and  each  time,  opposition 
under  very  various  circumstances,  I  have  been  for-  overcome, 
tunate  enough  to  hold  my  own  against  them.  The  first  time 
they  wanted  to  close  the  way  to  Witu  against  me,  and  after- 
wards to  prevent  my  advance  from  that  place  to  the  Tana.  I 
have  put  an  end  to  English  influence  in  Oda-Boru-Ruva,  and  set 
up  the  German  influence  in  its  place.  Then,  according  to  Mr. 
de  Winton's  prophecy,  I  was  to  find  an  English  expedition  at 
Baringo.  The  English  expeditions  were  obliged  to  turn  back 
in  the  steppes  of  the  Upper  Tana,  through  which  I  made  my 
way,  and  the  German  flag  now  waves  over  Baringo.  Lastly,  the 
English  had  already  sent  their  flag  to  Uganda,  and  everything 
was  ripe  for  the  British  protectorate.  The  English  flag  is  now 
withdrawn  from  this  place,  and  the  king,  Muanga,  has  recently 
solemnly  withdrawn  from  English  protection,  or  rather  from  his 
consent  to  it,  and  I  am  bringing  back  with  me  a  treaty  of 
commerce  and  peace. 

"I  have  had  occasion,  in  carrying  out  this  expedition,  to 
fight,  one  after  another,  the  Wagalla,  Wandorobbo,  Wadsagga, 
Wakikuju,  Massai,  Wakamasia,  Waelgejo,  and  Mangati  tribes. 
None   of  these   tribes   have   been   able   to   check  my  Advan- 
advance,  and  they  have  all  learnt  to  fear  the  German  thf  Ger°- 
flag.     I  have  attained  this  result  with  fifteen  Askaris  "^'^  *^^- 
and  about  fifty  bearers ;  and  with  articles  of  barter  collected  in 
Lamu  from  the  refuse  of  the  stock  of  the  encampment,  which 
had  been  described  to  us  as  probably  sufficient  for  the  march 
between  Tana  and  Oda-Boru-Ruva.     Such,  my  dear  Arendt,  is 
the  German  Emin  Pasha  Expedition,  from  the  Bay  of  Kwaihu 
to  the  capital  of  Uganda  :— Tana,  and  Baringo,  and  the  Nile  ! 

"  The  most  important  achievement  of  the  expedition  is  un- 
doubtedly the  affair  of  Uganda.  It  was  1884  over  again,  but 
in  a  grander  style.  ...  I  tell  you  these  things,  my  dear 
Arendt,  not  from  any  feeling  of  boastfulness,  but  because  I 
desire  to  make  my  standpoint  clear  in  the  sight  of  all  men.  For 
I  cannot  tell>hether  I  shall  return,  having  now  undertaken  the 
task  of  clearing  the  west  of  Lake  Victoria  of  the  Arabs,  and  if 


400  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

my  cartridges  hold  out  I  intend  afterwards  marching  on  Unjan- 
jembe,  to  observe  for  myself  the  position  of  Tippoo  Tib. 

"  An  effort  has  been  made  to  hinder  me  from  taking  any  share 
in  my  old  work  ;  and  Fate  has  given  me  its  revenge  in  truly 
grand  fashion.  If  I  fall,  it  shall  not  be  in  faint-hearted  fashion, 
but  proudly,  and  the  German  flag  which  I  have  carried  thus 
far  shall  be  spread  over  me  for  a  pall.  I  have  always  been 
anxious,  in  my  own  way,  to  raise  it  to  honour.  That  I  have 
differed  from  the  majority  of  my  countrymen  in  my  idea  of  the 
manner  in  which  this  was  to  be  effected  has  been  not  the  most 
unimportant  reason  of  the  hatred  and  vituperation  which  I  have 
encountered  in  Germany.  But  I  love  the  black,  white,  and  red 
flag  none  the  less  passionately  on  that  account,  and  for  the  rest 
a  good  deal  of  the  blame  is  my  own.  .  .  . 

"  Uganda,  a  splendid  country,  is  at  present  trodden  down  by 

war.  .  .  . 

"  With  kindest  regards, 

"  Yours, 

"  Gael  Petebs. 

"  PosTSCKiPT,  March  8th. — A  former  servant  of  Emin  Pasha's 
is  just  now  sitting  by  my  side.  I  have  to-day  succeeded  in 
gaining  from  Muanga  the  prohibition  of  the  export  of  slaves 
from  his  country. — C.  P." 

I  sent  to  the  Englishmen  in  Kawirondo  a  copy  of  the  treaty 
in  French,  accompanied  by  the  following  letter  :  — 

"  Dr.  Peters  begs  to  enclose  the  above  copy  to  the  gentlemen 
of  the  B.  E.  A.  A.  Expedition,  with  the  information  that  King 
Expiana-  Muanga  yesterday,  at  a  public  meeting,  at  which  the 
toThe*"^"^  gentlemen  of  the  English  Mission  attended,  has  declared 
English,  himself  free  from  any  engagements  which  the  B.  E.  A.  A. 
may  claim  upon  his  letters  addressed  to  Mr.  Jackson,  as  the 
conditions,  he  thinks,  have  not  been  fulfilled  which  he  made 
his  terms  under  the  protection  of  the  abovesaid  Company. 

"  Dr.  Carl  Peters  leaves  this  entirely  to  be  settled  between 
the  two  parties,  and  thinks  that  his  treaty  does  not  injure  the 
rights  of  any  European  nation." 


PLEASANT  QUARTERS  IN   UGANDA.  401 

On  March  6th  I  received  the  king's  decision  concerning  my 
proposal  of  collecting  boats  at  the  Sesse  Islands.  Muanga 
declared  himself  willing  to  send  his  admiral  thither,  and  to 
allow  Herr  von  Tiedemann  to  travel  in  the  same  boat  to  the 
French  Mission.  I  accordingly  at  once  gave  instructions  to 
Herr  von  Tiedemann  to  hold  himself  in  readiness  to  start  on 
the  following  morning.  The  Djumba,  however,  did  not  appear 
at  the  time  appointed,  and  Herr  von  Tiedemann  had  to  defer 
his  departure  until  the  following  day. 

On  the  morning  of  March  8th  he  betook  himself,  with  his 
personal  attendants,  to  the  shore  of  Lake  Victoria, 
opposite  to  the  island  of  Bulingogwe,  and  already  on  of  Herr  von 
the  day  afterwards  I  received  the  information  that  he  ^^''^"°'*""' 
passed  the  night  in  Bulingogwe,  and  expected  to  arrive  in 
Sesse  in  three  days. 

I  myself  removed  on  March  8th,  together  with  all  my 
people,  to  a  charming  country  house  which  the  king  had  given 
me.  It  stood  in  a  banana  grove  on  the  eastern  slope  of  Rubaja 
hill.  The  house  consisted  of  three  large  rooms,  built  of  cane 
reeds  after  the  Indian  fashion.     The  kitchens  and  ser-  ,   , 

J  ...  ...  A  pleasant 

vants  offices  were  established  m  the  adjoining  houses,  camping. 
As  is  usual  among  the  Waganda,  the  courtyard  con-  ^"" 
sisted  of  a  number  of  squares,  with  partitions  of  twisted  reeds. 
The  houses  for  my  column  stood  at  the  entrance  of  these  court- 
yards, so  that  I  had  all  my  men  around  me,  and  yet  was 
completely  private  and  undisturbed.  From  the  flagstaff  by 
the  principal  gateway  waved  the  great  German  flag.  I  may 
mention  in  passing  that  I  had  four  sentries  on  duty  day  and 
night  in  Uganda,  round  our  camp,  according  to  my  principle 
of  considering  a  surprise,  from  whatever  quarter  it  might  come, 
as  a  downright  disgrace  to  myself. 

On  March   9th  I  had  the  great  pleasure   of  making   the 
acquaintance  of  Monseigneur  Livinhae,  who  had  come  jj„„ggj 
over  from  the   Sesse  Islands  to  visit  the  newly-esta-  neur  Livin- 

.        hac 

blished  Catholic  Mission.     Monseigneur  Livinhae,  like 
so  many  of  his  brethren  in  these  countries,  is  a  strikingly  hand- 
some and  dignified-looking  man,  with  a  magnificent  long  black 

26 


402  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

beard.  A  crucifix,  set  with  brilliants,  hangs  down  over  his 
white  cassock.  I  found  him  to  be  a  ver)'  cultivated  man,  of 
great  delicacy  of  feeling,  and  entu-ely  free  from  prejudice  ;  full 
of  enthusiasm  for  the  cause  he  served,  and  possessing  a  clear- 
sighted intelligence  as  to  the  great  changes  which  are  taking 
place,  at  the  present  time,  in  African  affairs. 

I  had  the  pleasure  of  seeing  him  for  the  first  time  on 
March  8th.  On  Sunday,  March  9th,  we  dined  together  at  the 
Catholic  Mission ;  the  crown  of  the  feast  was  a  bottle  of 
Algerian  wine,  brought  by  Monseigneur  Livinhac, — a  rare  treat, 
which,  together  with  the  animated  conversation,  put  us  in  a 
frame  of  mind  that  was  almost  European. 

During  the  following  days,  I  began  to  take  in  hand  another 
great  question  of  principle  with  respect  to  Uganda.  If 
Muanga  and  his  party  wished  to  participate  in  the 
and  the  European  and  Christian  system,  it  was  absolutely 
'necessary  that  he  should  take  his  stand,  on  prmciple, 
on  the  anti-slavery  movement.  Chiefly  on  account  of  the 
great  beauty  of  the  women  of  Beyma,  Uganda  had  formerly 
been  one  of  the  greatest  centres  of  the  slave  trade.  Between 
March  9th  and  16th  Monseigneur  Lourdel  and  I  succeeded  in 
obtaining  from  the  king  the  following  solemn  declaration,  which 
brought  the  whole  matter  to  a  conclusion : — ■ 

"  Moi,  Muanga,  roi  du  Bouganda,  j'afRrme,  en  presence  de 
Monsieur  le  docteur  Carl  Peters,  et  du  R.  P.  Simeon  Lourdel, 
Muanga's  que  j'interdis  la  traite  des  esclaves  dans  le  Bouganda, 
cerning""'  and  les  pays  qui  en  dependent  ;  and  que  je  ferai  tout 
slavery,  j^qj^  possible  pour  empecher  I'exportation  des  esclaves 
de  tous  les  pays  qui  me  sont  soumis. 

"  Muanga,  Kabaka  du  Bouganda. 

"  Simeon  Lourdel,  de  miss.  d'Algers,  Superieur 
de  la  Mission  Catholique. 

"  Dr.  Carl  Peters. 

"  Mengo,  le  16  Mars,  1890." 

This  decree  was  issued  at  the   same  time  in  the  Kiganda 


2[r^AX(rA    PLEDGES   HIMSELE   TO   REFORMS. 


402 


language,  in  which  it  was  announced  to  the  chief  men  of  the 
country,  at  a  solemn  public  assembl}". 

To  bring  out  more  clearly  the  Christian  sentiments  which 
underlay  this  decree,  I  induced  the  king,  in  a  formal  memorial 
addressed  to  the  signatories  of  the  Congo  Act,  to  request  the 


*'"  '*^jj|^ife 


MONSEIGNEUR  LiVINHAC. 

neutralisation  of  Uganda  and  the  territory  ot  the  Upper  Nile  in 
the  spirit  of  the  Congo  Act,  and  to  pledge  himself  to  make 
Christianity  the  one  dominant  religion  in  all  his  dominions. 
The  king  appointed  me  his  plenipotentiary  for  the  negotiations 
concerning  this  matter,  in  case  I  should  consider,  on  my  return 
to  Europe,  that  there  was  any  prospect  of  their  leading  to  a 


404  yEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

practical  result.  The  Christian  religion  was,  moreover,  for- 
prospectsofmally  proclaimed  as  the  religion  of  the  state,  by  the 
thesupre-  decree   that  all   government   appointments   should  be 

macy  of  "  /  ^  t       i  1 1 

christi-  filled  by  Christians  only,  and  that,  accordingly,  all 
^'"'^^'  heathens  who  refused  to  be  converted  to  it  must 
resign  their  appointments.  This  decree  was  carried  out  in 
Uganda  to  the  fullest  extent,  and  it  was  in  this  way  that  my 
The  queen's  old  friend  Kamauyiro  Kanta  lost  his  province.  The 
Ifficiair  queen-mother,  Mtesa's  widow,  who  had  herself  remained 
dismissed.  ^  heathen,  was  obliged,  although  I  was  on  very  good 
terms  with  her,  to  dismiss  all  her  court  officials  who  adhered  to 
the  old  belief,  and  to  surround  herself  with  a  retinue  of  Chris- 
tians, a  proceeding  which  was  anything  but  agreeable  to  her. 
Mohammedanism,  as  such,  was  simply  forbidden,  under  penalty 
■of  death.  Heathenism  was  tolerated,  but  Christianity  alone  was 
in  every  respect  to  be  the  dominant  religion. 

I  co-operated  very  zealously  in  all  these  matters,  because  I 
•considered  that  these  measures  were  suited  in  every  respect  to 
the  existing  condition  of  affairs  in  the  north  of  Lake  Victoria. 
Mohammedanism  received  its  deathblow  by  the  prohibition  of 
the  slave  trade.  It  had  to  be  forbidden  in  Uganda  because  it 
aimed  openly  at  the  extermination  of  Christianity  ;  and  if  it 
were  in  any  degree  tolerated  it  could  have  easily  gained  the 
ascendency,  supported  as  it  was  by  the  neighbourhood  of  the 
great  Mohammedan  powers  in  the  north.  Heathenism,  from  a 
political  point  of  view,  might  be  tolerated,  if  only  its  followers 
were  prevented  from  holding  any  positions  of  influence  in  the 
country.  To  give  them  such  positions  would  be  dangerous, 
jTeoessity  because  in  the  old  heathen  religion  a  supernatural 
0^  Mm  a  -  ygjjeration  was  paid  to  the  dynasty  itself,  and  it  was 
heathenism.  ^jjgj-gfQj-g  ^q  ^g  assumed  that  although  Muanga  went 
with  the  Catholic  party,  there  yet  existed  in  that  ruler  a  strong 
attachment  to  his  former  religion,  which  might  easily  become 
dangerous  to  the  development  of  Christianity,  unless  the  latter 
held  in  its  hands  the  control  of  every  department  of  the  state. 
If  heathenism  were  dealt  with  everywhere  as  we  dealt  with  it 
in  Uganda,  it  Mould  hold  something  like  the  position  which  it 


.-1    CULTIVABLE  AND  IJIPROVABLE  LAND.  405 

occupied  about  the  middle  period  of  the  Roman  Emperors,  and 
there  is  no  doubt  that  it  would  very  soon  fall  to  pieces. 

In  order  to  deal  a  blow  at  Karema's  party,  I  tried  to  induce 
the  king  to  set  a  price  of  fifty  frasilas  of  ivory  upon  his  head, 
and  to  grant  to  all  his  -followers,  if  they  would  abjure 
Mohammedanism,  an  amnesty  and  permission  to  return  Lourders 
to  Uganda.    I  did  not,  however,  pursue  this  idea,  owing  "p""""- 
to  the  representations  of  Mons.  Lourdel,  who  said  that  in  the 
utter  absence  of  all  truthfulness  here  no  one  would  believe  either 
that  the  price  promised  for  the  head  of  Karema  would  be  paid, 
or  that  the  amnesty  would  be  observed,  and  that  therefore  an 
announcement  of  this  nature  would  be  unpractical.     I  certainly 
had  not  thought  of  that. 

But  in  spite  of  all  this,  I  had  during  these  few  weeks  in 
Uganda  the  great  satisfaction  of  being  able  to  observe  the  rapid 
advance  of  the  country  in  prosperity.  In  the  north  of  Mengo, 
the  daily  market  had  been  re-opened  under  lofty  trees ;  and 
every  day  saw  fresh  crowds  of  Christian  fugitives  from  every 
quarter  streaming  back  to  their  home.  Houses  and  villages 
sprang  up  on  every  hill,  almost  like  blossoms  after  a 
spring  rain.  The  fine  broad  roads,  which  had  become  of  the 
overgrown  with  grass,  were  soon  cleansed  again,  and  "''"''  ^^' 
presented  the  trim  appearance  which  is  peculiar  to  all  these 
settlements.  Digging  and  planting  went  on  everywhere ;  and 
as,  strangely  enough,  our  entrance  into  the  country  had  been 
accompanied  by  a  return  of  the  rain,  every  place  seemed  to 
burst  out  at  once  into  verdure  and  bloom.  The  members  of 
both  confessions  betook  themselves  at  once  to  building  places 
of  worship.  The  symbol  and  the  blessing  of  the  cross  were  to 
be  seen  everywhere. 

This  was  to  me  the  greatest  satisfaction  that  I  could  possibly 
have  received,  for 'all  the  dangers  and  anxieties  of  the  journey. 
Whenever  I  showed  myself  in  public,  which  I  always  did  with  a 
certain  display  of  ceremonial,  men  and  women  crowded  round 
me  rejoicing,  to  salute  me,  and  thank  me  for  the  help  I  had 
brought  them.  I  felt  deeply  moved  during  these  hours  and 
days,  when  I  reflected  what  might  be  made  of  this  country,  so 


406  .V/:Tr  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

highly  favoured  by  God,  if  it  continued  in  the  paths  of  industry 
under  European  influence,  as  it  had  shown  itself  happily 
disposed  to  do  during  these  weeks  of  my  stay. 

As  I  was  so  entirely  isolated,  and  generally  lived  alone,  I 
Acquaint-  had  leisure  enough,  after  my  political  labours,  which 
the cJ^nuy never  took  up  more  than  a  few  hours  of  each  day, 
and  people,  ^q  gtudy  the  couutry  and  the  people,  and  to  become 
acquainted  with  their  manners  and  customs. 

I  could  not,  of  course,  arrive  at  any  definite  conclusion 
in  these  respects  ;  but  for  the  very  reason  that  I  saw  Uganda 
under  such  peculiar  circumstances,  my  observations  may  be 
found  not  entirely  devoid  of  interest. 

If  nations  may  be  divided  into  two  classes,  those  which  are 
destined  to  rule  and  those  which  are  compelled  to  obey,  the 
Waganda  belong  unquestionably  to  the  former  class.  Proud 
even  to  passionate  vindictiveness,  brave  and  courageous  even 
to  cruelty,  they  have  within  themselves  that  instinctive  feeling 
of  their  superiority  over  others  which  is  the  natural  and  in- 
dispensable condition  of  sovereignty.  It  is  not  very  long 
since  the  King  of  Uganda  looked  upon  himself  as  the  first 
„  .,      ,   monarch  of  the  world,  and  looked  down  with  an  equal 

Pride  and  '  '- 

ignorance  contempt  upou  white  men  and  Arabs.  Mtesa  was  un- 
sophisticated enough  to  ask  for  the  hand  of  a  daughter 
of  the  Queen  of  England  in  marriage,  and  thought  he  was 
conferring  a  great  deal  of  honour  in  so  doing.  The  English 
missionaries  prudently  kept  back  in  Usumbiro  the  document 
containing  this  proposal.  But  the  individual  Waganda  also,  how- 
ever submissive  he  may  be  at  home  to  the  despotism  of  his 
Mfalme,  understands  perfectly  well  how  to  command  when  he 
is  abroad.  I  had  several  opportunities  of  remarking  this,  both 
in  Usoga  and  on  my  journey  round  Lake  Victoria.  There  was 
with  me  as  guide  8tephano,  a  young  servant  of  the  Katikiro's, 
and  I  was  delighted  to  see  with  what  authority  this  man,  who 
behaved  like  a  slave  towards  me,  ordered  about  hundreds  of 
rowers  from  Wausu,  and  how  he,  standing  alone,  gave  his  com- 
mands to  men  of  the  western  tribes.  This  gift  of  authority  is, 
as  it  were,  in  the  blood  of  the  Waganda,  and  this  superiority  is 


SUPERIORITY  OF  TEE   WAG  AND  A   NATION.  407 

nowhere  denied.  "  Oderint  dum  metuant  "  is  most  assuredly 
the  only  practical  motto  for  Africa,  and  seems  indeed  to  be  the 
accepted  principle  of  the  continent  in  the  treatment  of  other 
people. 

In  the  development  of  their  intelligence,  the  Waganda  un- 
doubtedly excel  every  other  African  nation.     The  missionaries 
have  assured  me  of  the  fact,  and  I  had  occasion  my- 
self to  remark  with  what  quickness  they  caught  up  ties  of  the 
and  assimilated  ideas.     In  contrast  to  all  other  negro  ^*sanda. 
tribes,  the  Waganda  feels  the  necessity  of  progress.    Christianity 
has  spread  among  this  people  with  amazing  rapidity,  when  once 
the  superiority  of  the  white  race  was  understood  ;  and  in  its 
train  have   come  the  arts  of  reading  and  writing.     The  mis- 
sionaries of  both  confessions  agree  in  their  descriptions  of  the 
eagerness  with  which  the  Waganda  presses  forward  to  be  taught. 
How  utterly  different  from  the  morally  and  mentally  degraded 
Uwangwana  on  the  coast,  or  the  stupid  Usukuma  and  Mjammesi. 
In  the  Waganda  there  is  fire,  appreciativeness,  and  intelligence, 
and  without  question  this  tribe  has  a  future  before  it. 

It  is  true  that  these  advantages  are  accompanied  by  a 
number  of  faults.  I  never  saw  the  simple  impudence  of  which 
Emin  Pasha  complains.  "  Other  times,  other  manners  ;  "  and 
it  certainly  makes  a  difference  whether  you  come  to  Mtesa  as 
a  private  individual,  or  to  Muanga  at  the  head  of  an  Eespeot 
efficient  military  expedition  !  On  the  whole,  with  ^y  resoiu- 
Christianity  there  has  come  a  greater  respect  for  th^  *^°"^- 
white  race  which  introduced  it.  The  superiority  of  the  white 
man,  as  I  said  before,  has  become  clear  to  the  Waganda,  and 
they  are  eager  to  learn  from  us  as  much  as  possible.  But  their 
desire  to  hold  a  certain  rank  leads  them  to  despise  common 
unskilled  labour,  and,  since  they  must  live,  they  have  re- 
course to  begging  or  stealing.  In  a  country  where  private 
property  is  entirely  at  the  mercy  of  the  ruler's  caprice,  the 
chief  spur  to  honest  solid  acquisition  is  wanting,  and  the 
dangerous  blessing  afforded  by  the  perennial  banana,  which, 
without  demanding  any  cultivation  to  speak  of,  bestows  every- 
thing necessary  for  the  support  of  life,  has  naturally  intensified 


408  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

the  general   inclination  to  idleness.     These   fortunate  people 

only  need  to  build  houses,  for  which  the  reeds  of  the  country 

supply  a  convenient  material,  and  to  weave  their  cloth- 
Life  easy  m        ^^   •'  T        1         1         f  i    •  -IJ   £ 

waganda-  ing  stuffs,  mbugo,  froHi  the  bark  ot  a  certain  wild  hg- 
^^''^'  tree  ;  the  rest  of  their  time  can  then  be  wasted  merrily 
in  a  doles  far  niente.  The  unripe  banana,  when  dried,  yields 
the  finest  white  flour  I  have  ever  seen.  I  prefer  the  ugali  (or 
broth)  made  with  banana  flour  even  to  that  made  with  wheat 
flour.  Or  again,  the  green  banana  may  be  roasted,  and  yields 
a  dish  not  unlike  potatoes  baked  in  their  skins  ;  while  one 
.  .     variety  of  banana,  when  ripe,  is  boiled  in  the  skin,  and 

Capacities  •'  ^  ■  i  •    i 

oftheba-  when  it  is  afterwards  peeled  it  makes  a  preserve  which 
has  exactly  the  taste  of  our  stewed  pears.  For  dessert 
a  capital  dish  is  afforded  by  the  ripe  banana,  peeled,  cut  in 
half,  and  baked  in  a  pan  with  butter  and  sugar ;  prepared  in 
this  way  it  is  certainly  quite  equal  to  our  European  dish  of 
apple  cake  or  tart.  There  are  other  ways  of  cooking  bananas, 
not  to  speak  of  the  various  effervescing  drinks  which  are  ob- 
tained from  this  fruit,  from  the  light  muenge  (tamo  tamo), 
which  resembles  champagne,  to  the  heavy  intoxicating  varieties 
of  pombe  !  Truly,  the  gods  could  not  have  bestowed  a  more 
valuable  gift  on  the  countries  on  the  northern  shore  of  Lake 
Victoria  than  its  vast  banana  groves,  which  afford  an  easy  and 
pleasant  means  of  subsistence  to  millions  of  people.  But,  as  is 
said  to  be  the  case  in  the  South  Sea  Islands,  this  gift  of  the  too 
easy  provision  of  the  necessaries  of  life  is  attended  with  dangers 
not  always  overcome,  even  by  the  restless  energy  of  this  race. 
The  traveller  in  Uganda  must  look  well  after  his  goods  and 
chattels,  especially  at  night,  and  will  do  well  to  harden  himself 
against  the  begging  of  high  and  low.  Unless  he  does  this,  he 
will  not  carry  much  away  with  him  from  this  country. 

The  form  of  salutation  among  the  Waganda  is  lively  and 
cheery.  When  two  acquaintances  meet,  one  of  them  says,  as  he 
Customs  of  grasps  the  other's  hand,  "  Otiano."  "Eh,"  replies  the 
civility,  other,  in  a  grunting  tone  ;  and  now  arises  an  interchange 
of  complimentary  grunts— "eA,"  "eh,"  "eh,"  "eh,"  "eh,"  "eh," 
varied  with  an  occasional  "otiano"  the  voice  in  diminuendo 


CUSTOMS;— THE  NATIONAL  DRUM.  409' 

tones.  The  method  of  giving  thanks  is  by  falling  flat  on  one's 
stomach,  and  holding  the  two  hands  palm  to  palm,  waving 
them  in  a  slanting  direction  through  the  air,  uttering  over  and 
over  again — "  Niansig,  nianzig,  nianzig." 

As  might  be  expected  from  the  lively,  sanguine  temperament 
of  the  people,  a  love  of  music  is  strongly  developed  among 
them. 

Stanley  translates  Uganda  as  meaning  "  The  Land  of 
Drums."  I  have  vainly  sought  to  discover  any  justification  for 
such  a  translation.  On  the  contrary,  Uganda  means  in  Kiganda 
the  brother,  and  Uganda  should  therefore  be  translated  the 
"  Brotherland,"  analogous  to  our  German  word  "  Fatherland." 
But  if  Stanley's  interpretation  be  etymologically  incorrect,  it 
can  certainly  be  justified  practically,  for  Uganda  is  indisputably 
a  land  of  drums  in  the  fullest  sense  of  the  expression.  Drum- 
ming goes  on  there  day  and  night,  from  one  end  of  the  land  to 
the  other.  The  hilly  country,  with  its  surrounding  heights  and 
its  echoing  valleys,  to  a  certain  extent  invites  this  proceeding. 
Indeed,  from  the  heights  of  Mengo  or  Rubaga  the  country 
may  be  governed  by  means  of  signals  given  by  beat  of  drum, 
certainly  for  a  circuit  of  five  miles  around.  This  is  fully  taken 
advantage  of  at  the  royal  court.  Muanga  has  a  whole  house- 
ful of  the  most  various  kinds  of  drums.  By  means  of  these 
the  greatest  variety  of  signals  can  be  given,  which  are  im- 
mediately understood  by  all  the  country  round.  Often  ^^  ^^ 
when  Gabriel,  the  head  of  the  army,  was  with  me,  he  ganda 
would  suddenly  get  up  and  say :  "  The  gates  are  bemg 
closed,"  or  "  The  king  wants  to  see  me,"  or  "  The  Askaris  are 
ordered  to  dance,"  or  something  of  the  sort.  And  when  I 
asked  him,  "  How  do  you  know  that  ?  "  he  would  answer,  smil- 
ing, "  Ngoma  '"  ("  Drum  ").  The  drum  used  in  war  is  especially 
effective,  even  to  a  European  ear.  Three  drums,  tuned  in 
fifths,  are  beaten  in  a  peculiar  roll,  which  has  a  solemn, 
dignified,  and  at  the  same  time  menacing  effect. 

Next  to  the  drum  the  various  kinds  of  flute  are  very  plenti- 
ful in  Uganda,  both  reed  and  wooden  flutes  of  all  kinds  and 
sizes.     An  orchestra  of  flutes  in  Uganda  is  extremely  comic. 


410 


y/:]]'  Ljnnr  on  dark  afrka. 


ilUSICAL 
THE 

Muauo-a 


Six    or    more    gentlemen,  with 
portentously  solemn  expression 
of  conntenance,  but  Avithoiit  the 
slightest    pretension    to    tune    or 
time,    pla}'    against    each    other, 
every  one   choosing    his  own 
air,  and  endeavouring  with  all 
his    might    to    play    down   all 
the  others.     It  seems  that  the 
different  flutes  belonging  to  a 
waganda    band  of  this  kind  are 
flutes.        tuned     according     to 
some  kind  of  method,  for  instru- 
ments of  various   pitch,  some 
higher   and    some  lower,  were 
always   to   be    recognised  ;    but   the 
general  effect  produced  was  a  sort 
of  "  charivari,"  that  made   us  in- 
voluntarily raise   our  hands   to  our 
ears.     Besides   this,  the  Waganda  have 
stringed    instnunents,    horns,    and    even 

very    full-sounding     specimen    in    King 
s    collection    of    instrmnents.      Together    with    these 


MUSIC  AND  ARCHITECTURE  IN  WAGANDA.  411 

instruments  the  singer  makes  his  appearance.  He  recites  to  the 
accompaniment  of  a  drum,  beaten  by  himself.  He  appears  to  be 
performing  love-songs,  or  songs  in  praise  of  the  Msungu,  or  of 
some  of  the  chiefs  who  are  present.  While  singing  the  love- 
songs  he  smiles  significantly,  or  accompanies  his  chant  with  a 
rhythmical  dancing  movement,  without,  however,  moving  from 
his  place.  The  Waganda  also  sing  in  chorus,  not  unmelodiously ; 
sometimes  rather  plaintively,  sometimes  with  a  wild  and  shrill 
sound.  You  never  quite  lose  the  feeling  that  they  have  picked 
up  a  fragment  of  a  tune,  like  parrots,  but  that  they  do  not  know 
how  to  put  the  different  parts  together,  so  as  to  blend  them  into 
a  real  and  complete  melody.  It  is  always  a  beginning,  but 
never  comes  to  any  completion,  as  if  they  were  trying  Musical 
to  utter  something  they  wanted  to  say,  and  could  never  „{ "^^r'*^*' 
find  the  right  expression  for  it.  However,  my  visit  to  waganda. 
Uganda  was  at  too  serious  a  time  to  allow  me  to  form  a  proper 
opinion  as  to  the  joyousness  and  love  of  singing  inherent  in 
these  people.  There  was  dearth  in  the  land,  and  war  stood  on 
the  threshold.  Such  a  time  is  not  very  favourable  for  singing 
and  dancing  merrily.  But  still  the  population  streamed  back 
into  the  land,  day  by  day,  in  ever  increasing-numbers.  Every- 
where building  was  going  on,  fields  were  being  tilled,  and  on 
the  whole  T  was  able  to  gain,  I  think,  a  very  fair  idea  of  this 
side  of  the  national  character. 

The  houses  of  the  Waganda  chiefs  are  very  tastefully  built ; 
they  are  generally  neatly  made,  entirely  of  reeds,  in  something 
resembling  the  Indian  style  of  architecture. 

My  house  at  Rubaga,  into  which,  as  I  have  already  men- 
tioned, I  moved  in  the  second  week  of  my  stay,  presented  at  the 
front  and  at  the  back  two  semi-circular  halls,  in  which  I  esta- 
blished myself  very  comfortably.  The  centre  was  occupied  by  a 
large,  partially-darkened  room,  which  was  approached  ^^^^^^^ 
from  a  third  side  by  a  door  which  could  be  locked,  architeo- 

,.  ,  .    T     ture. 

The  trim  little  house  was  enclosed  by  a  square  ot  bigti 
fences  made  of  matting,  above  which  only  the  lofty  trees  of  the 
banana  grove  appear,  near  which  the  house  was  situated.     The 
courtyard  was  again  divided,  by  similar  fences  of  matting,  mto 


412  ^^EW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

diifereiit  parts,  one  of  which  contained  the  house  used  as  our 
kitchen.  Three  doors  on  three  sides  led  from  the  outer  fence 
into  tlie  open  countrj'.  Before  one  of  these  doors,  at  about  ten 
or  fifteen  paces  distant,  lay  the  houses  for  the  slaves,  in  which  I 
quartered  the  Askaris  and  the  bearers.  I  had  installed  my  own 
servants  and  the  kitchen  in  the  separate  parts  of  the  courtyard, 
so  that  I  had  all  my  people  at  hand,  and  yet  was  entirely  alone 
and  undisturbed.  It  is  certainly  the  pleasantest  style  of  build- 
ing that  can  be  imagined  for  these  countries.  As  the  court- 
yards are  paved  with  hard-trodden  clay,  the  most  scrupulous 
cleanliness  can  be  maintained  throughout. 

The  houses  of  the  slaves  and  of  the  poor  consist,  like  those 
of  the  Bantu,  of  huts  shaped  like  haycocks,  and  entered  by  a 
door  with  locks  or  fastenings,  and  supported  inside  by  a  peculiar 
arrangement  of  pillars.  The  Waganda  are  extraordinarily  skil- 
skiifui  ful  in  house  building.  Give  them  three  or  four  days, 
builders.  ^^^^  whole  villages  appear  where  before  there  had  been 
a  desert.  In  Mengo  not  only  reception  halls  of  colossal  dimen- 
sions arose,  as  it  were,  out  of  nothing,  in  the  course  of  a  single 
week,  but  also  hundreds  of  houses  for  the  guards,  drummers, 
and  slaves  of  the  king. 

Besides  this  aptitude  for  building,  the  Waganda,  as  Emin 
Pasha  has  observed,  have  a  great  turn  for  blacksmith's  work. 
At  Rubaga  there  is  a  smithy  of  this  description,  which  I 
visited'  The  men  were  working  there  almost  exclusively  with 
European  tools,  and,  in  my  opinion,  with  almost  European  skill. 
I  had  occasion  myself  to  have  several  guns  repaired  here,  and 
among  other  things  it  was  necessary,  at  one  time,  to  replace  in 
one  of  the  magazine  guns  a  lost  part  of  the  machinery,  by 
which  the  cartridges  were  rapidly  thrown  out  after  the  weapon 
had  been  discharged.  In  every  case  the  work  was  done  in  a 
neat,  Avorkmanlike  manner.  This  particular  trade  is  still  held  in 
honour  in  this  place.  The  owner  of  the  forge  had  lately  been 
appointed  one  of  the  chiefs  of  the  land.  The  Waganda  im- 
port their  iron  either  from  Unjoro  or  from  Usogora,  on  the  west 
of  the  lake,  or  in  the  shape  of  iron  wire  from  the  coast.  No 
minerals  of  any  kind  are  obtained  in  Uganda  itself. 


PROSPECTfi    OF   UGANDA    TN   THE  FUTURE. 


4K 


The  facts  1  havi'  thus  brouglit  forward  show  that  in  all  pro- 
bability we  have  before  ns,  in  this  lively  ami  hearty  jieople,  a 


Household  Uteksils  of  the  Wacjanda. 

rising  race,  whicli  has  a  future  before  it  in  the  development  ol 
Central  Africa.    They  pass  their  lives  in  their  own  mountnin  land, 


414  XEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

mth  its  vallej's  and  heights,  like  the  Thuringians,  loving  song 
and  merriment.  But  here  are  imprinted,  more  deepl}'  than  in 
Cruelty  of  the  German  race,  the  dark  featm-es  of  bloody  revenge 
the  people.  g^jj(j  j^putal  Cruelty.  In  Uganda  we  are  within  the 
limits  of  the  dark  despotism  of  Central  Africa.  The  stranger 
marvels  at  the  number  of  human  beings  he  encounters  who 
have  lost  one  eye,  or  both  ears,  or  their  noses,  or  lips  ;  but  the 
missionaries  have  stories  to  tell  of  much  worse  things.  Every- 
thing in  the  whole  of  this  country  belongs  to  the  ruler  alone. 
He  issues  his  command,  and  the  people  at  once  bring  him  their 
cattle,  daughters,  and  wives.  He  commands,  and  hundreds  of 
his  subjects  are  dragged  off  to  the  place  of  execution,  and  there 
put  to  death  with  fearful  tortures.  The  limbs  of  the  victims 
are  hacked  oif  one  by  one,  roasted  before  the  very  eyes  of  the 
unfortunate  sufferers,  who  are  then  forced  to  eat  their  own 
flesh.  The  mutilated  trunk  is  then  slowly  roasted,  and  every- 
thing is  done  to  prolong  the  agony  as  much  as  possible.  This 
is  what  Mohammedans  and  Christians  have  had  to  live  among 
here,  and  only  recently,  with  the  introduction  of  Christianity, 
has  the  state  of  things  taken  a  turn  for  the  better.  And 
yet  this  country  is  both  in  climate  and  scenery  cheerful  and 
beautiful,  so  that  one  wonders  how,  under  these  skies,  such 
bestial  cruelty  can  have  established  itself. 

According  to  Father  Lourdel,  the  thermometer  in  Uganda, 
even  in  the  hottest  season,  which  is  in  February,  never  rises. 

Climatic  ^^°^^  ^^°  ^-  (^^°  Fahr.)  in  the  shade  ;  while  in  the 
advantages  coldest  period,  July,  it  sinks  to  13°  C.  (55°  Fahr.) 
gan  a.  ^^  ^^^  night.  Strange  to  say,  Uganda  belongs,  in 
its  seasonable  periods,  to  the  southern  hemisphere,  while 
geographically  it  is  in  the  northern.  Moreover,  there  is 
not  such  a  sharp  division  into  a  dry  and  a  wet  season  as. 
in  other  tropical  countries,  although  the  precipitation  of  rain 
is  greater  than  usual  between  the  months  of  March  and  May.. 
It  rains  irregularly  at  all  times  of  the  year,  owing  to  the 
Tropical  influence  of  the  lake,  and  the  embraces  of  sky  and 
tempests,  ^^^^j^  ^^^^  ^iere  of  an  extraordinarily  fiery  character- 
Nowhere  have  I  met  with  such  numerous  storms  of  thunder 


WAGANDA    CLIMATE  AND  PRODUCTIONS.  415 

and  lightning,  or  of  so  violent  a  kind,  as  in  Uganda.  During 
a  storm  one  can  almost  say  that  the  space  of  time  between  the 
flashes  is  shorter  than  the  time  covered  by  the  flash  itself ;  it 
flickers  continually  like  a  gas  flame  in  an  autumn  wind.  It 
is  accompanied  by  short  rolls  of  thunder.  Even  when  we  had 
not  thunder-storms  just  overhead,  the  horizon  in  one  direction, 
generally  to  the  north,  was  in  flames  every  night  in  March. 
But  the  earth  here  shows  herself  grateful  enough  for  the  blessed 
rain  of  heaven.  Everything  blossoms  and  flourishes,  and  I  am 
convinced,  as  are  the  missionaries,  that  the  land  here  is  able 
to  bring  forth,  without  exception,  every  product  of  the  tropical 
and  temperate  zones.  I  will  only  mention  the  excellent 
Uganda  cofifee,  which  we  drank  regularly,  and  which  anrproLo- 
grows  wild  here.  Herr  von  Tiedemann  bought  fifty  *^^^''^='- 
pounds  of  it  for,  I  believe,  four  arm-lengths  of  stuff" ;  I  find  no 
difference  between  this  and  Mocha  coffee.  Besides  this  I  must 
mention  tobacco,  and  sugar-cane,  manioc,  red  sorghum,  peas,, 
beans,  batatas,  etc.  At  the  Roman  Catholic  mission  station 
every  kind  of  European  vegetable  is  grown.  The  country  is 
also  extremely  healthy,  no  missionary  having  died  here  before 
Mons.  Lourdel,  and  for  lung  diseases  Uganda  is  probably  as 
much  to  be  recommended  as  Madeira. 

And   now,    whence   come    the   inhabitants   of  this   land  ? 
Whence   have    they   their    peculiar   characteristics   and   their 
superiority  in  culture  over  the   other   Bantu  races  P  ^  .  . 
for  that  they  are  of  Bantu  stock  there  is  no  question,  the 
as  the  construction  of  their  language  proves  it ;  but     *^*°  *' 
among   this  original   population    a   second  element  has   been 
introduced,  which  came  from  the  north.      Emin  and  Felkin 
call  these  people  from  the  north  Wahuma  (inhabitants  of  the 
north),  and  I  found  in  Uganda  the  probably  identical  name 
Beyma  in  use.     In  Usukuma  the  Massais  are  called  Wahuma, 
and  this  word  is  identical  with  Wasukuma  itself,  which  signifies 
nothing  else  than  North-folk.     These  Beyma  came  long  ago 
from  the  far  north,  passed  over  the  Nile,  not  far  from  Mruli,. 
and  conquered  all  the  country  to  the  north  and  west  of  the 
lake.     They  founded  here  a  great  kingdom  among  the  Wakintu,, 


416  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

from  whose  race  springs  the  present  dynasty  of  the  Uganda 
kings.  Their  kingdom  extended  as  far  as  Mwuta  Nzige,  and 
southwards  to  the  north  end  of  the  Tanganyika  ;  and  the 
countries  of  Usoga,  Uganda,  Unjoro,  Meru,  Usagara,  and  Uhha, 
in  the  south,  all  belonged  to  it.  In  Uhha  the  Beyma  race  still 
exists,  pure  and  unmixed.  In  the  north  they  became  absorbed 
into  the  aboriginal  population,  or  were  sharply  distinguished 
from  the  general  mixed  race  in  the  Beyma  pastoral  tribes. 

These  Beyma  are  still  found  in  Uganda  by  hundreds  of 
thousands.  They  keep  entirely  to  themselves,  though  their 
The  Bey-  "^™Kien  are  everywhere  sought  for,  on  account  of  their 
ma  people,  remarkable  beauty,  and  through  them  the  Beyma 
blood  is  making  its  way  everywhere.  So  far  as  I  saw,  the 
Beyma  were  of  a  slender  type,  with  dewy,  dreamy  eyes,  and 
features  of  almost  a  Caucasian  cast ;  their  colour  is  light 
brown,  and  their  faces  reminded  me  of  the  figures  in  an  ancient 
Egyptian  temple.  Felkin  states  that  they  were  also  called 
Wawitu;  an  assertion  that  I  was  not  able  to  verify.  This  name 
would  seem  to  point  to  a  connection  with  the  countries  east 
of  the  Samu.  At  present  it  is  of  the  greatest  importance  to  the 
history  of  Central  and  North  Africa  to  know  whence  come 
the  Beyma,  and  to  what  race  they  may  belong.  They'  speak 
Kiganda,  but  in  an  outlandish  dialect.  After  a  closer  research, 
however,  I  succeeded  in  proving  the  existence  of  a  number 
Com  ari-  ^^  '"'ords  in  their  language,  which  are  not  Kiganda, 
son  of  Ian-  and  SO  may  belong  to  the  original  language  of  the 

guages.        -pj  -J-    -.  .  -,  (DO 

Beyma.  i  here  give  these  words,  hoping  that  more 
erudite  men  than  myself  will  be  able  to  draw  conclusions  from 
them': — 


nglish. 

Suahili. 

Kiganda. 

Special  Beyma. 

clay 

siku 

naku 

birro 

God 

mlmngu 

katonda 

Dubaga  (or  Eubaga, 
like  the  former 
capital  of  the  Ugan- 
da) 

devil 

slietani 

Rubale 

batwesi  (rather,  as  it 
seems,  archangel) 

LANGUAGES   OF  EASTERN  AFRICA. 


417 


English. 

Suahili. 

Kiganda. 

Special  Beyma. 

star 

tonda 

ratonda 

iguru 

sheep 

kondoo 

diga 

ntc\ma 

rain 

mwua 

mkubd 

njtirra 

how  are  you  ? 

haligani 

otiano 

mirembejo 

honey- 

asali  na  njuki 

nubiss 

bugeme 

peace 

amani 

kwegaisia 

kwesengelessa 

hair 

uelle 

mwiri 

soke 

father 

baba 

sebo 

tata. 

Any.  one  who  wants  to  obtain  an  answer  to  this  question 
must  also  examine  the  words  which  are  common  to  the  Kiganda 
and  Beyma,  but  differ  from  the  Suahili,  for  it  is  quite 
possible  that  words  have  crept  into  the  Kiganda  and  xigan- 
language  from  the  Beyma.  I  must  leave  these  en- *^  *'*^^''*'' 
quiries  to  experts,  since  of  the  Kibantu  languages  I  only  know 
Suahili,  and  the  tribes  that  differ  from  Suahili  may  simply  be 
the  Uganda  dialects  of  Kibantu.  I  will  here  give  a  few  such 
words,  as  specimens,  which  will  perhaps  repay  examination: — 


English. 

Suahili. 

Kiganda  and  Beyma. 

ox 

bird 

wife 

ngombe 

ndege 

manamke 

nte,  unte 

njungu 

mkasi 

sultan 
chUd 

sultani 
mtoto 

kabaka  (Beyma,  mukama) 
muana 

night 
soul 

usiku 
roho 

kirro  (comp.  birro  =  day) 
mtinsa 

stick 
fat 
milk 
war 

fimbo 
mafuta 
masiva 
mwita 

mkoni  (Beyma,  mugo) 

msigo 

mdte  (Beyma,  matA) 

baruana  (Beyma,  turuani) 

I  content  myself  with  these  specimens,  because  the  enquirer 
will  doubtless  find  noted  in  Monseigneur  Livinhac's  grammar  of 
the  Kiganda  language  other  non-Suahili  tribes  in  Kiganda. 

Felkin  is  of  opinion  that  the  Beyma  are  of  ancient  Abyssinian 
origin,  and  I  should  be  inclined  to  believe  that  they  belong  to 
the  Somali  of  the  "Wagalla  race.  They  are  unquestionably,  like 
the  latter,  an  entirely  pastoral  population,  and  a  few  words  of 

27 


418  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

their  language  sound  to  me  like  some  well-known  Somali  or 
Wagalla  words.  Thus  hirro,  day,  is  in  Kisomal  heri,  in  Kigalla 
boru,  to-morrow  morning.  Njurra,  rain,  is  in  Kisomal  gdrrah. 
I  leave  this  point  undecided.  I  own  that  I  await,  with  the 
keenest  interest,  the  answer  which  will  be  given,  by  an  Oriental 
scholar,  to  the  question  thus  raised. 

Meanwhile,  I  may  be  permitted  to  bring  forward  the  reasons 
Ancient  re-  which  have  led  me  to  suppose  that  there  has  existed 
lations  with  jj^^gj-gQ^Pgg    jjj  ygj-y  ancient  times,  between  the  lake 

civilised  '  •'  ..,..„ 

countries,  district,  especially  Uganda,  and  the  civilisation  oi 
ancient  Egypt. 

1.  It  is  a  well-known  fact  that  the  ancients  were  acquainted 
with  the  lakes  of  Central  Africa.  Aristotle,  in  his  "  Historia 
Animalium,"  viii.,  2,  mentions  in  a  brief  and  sober  way,  that 
"  the  cranes  migrate  as  far  as  the  lakes  beyond  Egypt,  where 
the  Nile  has  its  source.  There  dwell  the  pigmies  ;  and  this  is 
no  fable,  but  the  simple  truth.  Both  men  and  horses,  so  says 
report,  are  small  size,  and  live  in  caves." 

What  seems  to  me  remarkable  in  this  passage  is,  that 
Aristotle  mentions  the  fact  that  the  Nile  has  its  source  in  the 
lakes  of  the  south  country,  not  as  anything  new,  but  casually,  as 
something  already  known  to  his  readers.  The  additional  remark 
"  and  this  is  no  fable,"  etc.,  proves,  moreover,  that  Aristotle  had 
his  information  about  the  nation  of  dwarfs  from  a  source  he  con- 
Ancient  re-  sidered  trustworthy,  probably  from  travellers  ;  and  the 
their  teaoii- story  has  been  shown  in  our  own  day  by  Schweinfurth 
^"58-  to  be  perfectly  well  founded.  Schweinfurth  also  recog- 
nised the  nation  of  the  pigmies  in  the  tribe  of  dwarfs  of  the 
Akka,  to  the  south  of  Manbuttu.*  Now,  it  is  of  course  possible 
that  such  information  may  have  arrived  in  Egypt  at  third  or 
fourth  hand.  However  that  may  be,  the  passage  at  least  proves 
a  certain  intercourse.  Eratosthenes  also,  about  200  B.C.,  speaks 
of  the  Nile  as  issuing  from  lakes. 

Ptolemy  seems  to  have  had  more  accurate  information,  for 
on  his   map  he  indicates    two    Nile  lakes  (the  Victoria  and 

*  Accordingly,  it  was  not  Stanley  who  first  discovered  the  dwarf  tribes 
of  Central  Africa. 


DOUBTS  REGARDING   THE  MOUNTAINS   OF   THE  MOON.    419 

Albert  Nyanza  P),  and  marks  down  the  Mountains  of  the  Moon 
to  the  south  of  the  lake.  These  Mountains  of  the  Moon,  accord- 
ingly, appear  even  before  the  Christian  era,  and  are  given  in 
somewhat  uncertain  form  by  every  subsequent  geographer. 
Can  it  be  doubted  that  these  Mountains  of  the  Moon  point  to  a 
knowledge  of  Unjamwesi  (  Un  land,  ia  form  of  the  genitive,  and 
mwesi  moon,  thus  making  Land  of  the  Moon),  to  the  south  of 
the  Victoria  Nyanza,  from  which,  as  a  matter  of  fact,  issue  the 
last  streams  flowing  from  the  Nile  ? 

Stanley  thought,  not  long  ago,  that  in  the  Ruwenzori  he  had 
discovered  the  fabulous  Mountains  of  the  Moon  ;  but  he  gives  no 
reasons  of  any  kind  for  his  belief.  He  reprints  the  Stanley  and 
accounts  of  the  Mountains  of  the  Moon  given  by  the  tafnf  of  tie 
ancients,  but  adds  nothing  to  show  why  these  accounts  '^o""- 
should  be  applied  to  the  Ruwenzori ;  while  the  ancient  maps, 
that  he  himself  prints,  flatly  contradict  his  hypothesis,  as  they 
one  and  all  place  the  Mountains  of  the  Moon  to  the  south  of 
Lake  Victoria.  There  is  no  great  difficulty  in  selecting  some 
mountain  or  other,  and  saying,  "  Here  are  the  Mountains  of 
the  Moon  ; ''  and  one  man  has  pointed  to  this  mountain,  and 
another  to  that.  But  the  solution  is  evidently  to  be  found  much 
nearer  at  hand  ;  and  the  fact  of  deriving  the  origin  of  the 
name  from  Unjamwesi,  the  name  of  the  country  at  the  present 
day,  is  supported  above  all  by  the  places  marked  on  the  map  by 
the  Greeks  and  Arabs.  It  is  probable  that  Uganda  traders  learnt 
that  beyond  the  lake  lay  Unjamwesi,  the  Land  of  the  Moon,  and 
brought  this  information  back  with  them  to  Egypt.  The  deri- 
vation of  the  name  Unjamwesi  itself  is  not  quite  clear ;  the 
mountains  of  Unjamwesi,  seen  from  the  east,  are  crescent- 
shaped,  and  give  something  like  the  impression  of  the  rising 
moon.  It  may  be  that  the  name,  Mountains  of  the  Moon,  may 
be  traced  to  this  circumstance  ;  but  that  is  not  now  to  the  point. 

All  that  Stanley  quotes  from  the  reports  of  the  ancients 
■concerning  these  Mountains  of  the  Moon  belongs  entirely  to  the 
realm  of  fable,  and  may  just  as  well  apply  to  any  other  moun- 
tain range  as  to  the  Ruwenzori.  The  mountain  described  in 
these  accounts  is  called,  not  Ruwenzori,  but  Kumr,  and  there  is 


420 


NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 


mention   of  caves  and   great  buildings  within  it.      It  is  well 

.    .   ,     known  that  Thomson  discovered  large  rock-cut  build- 
Ancient      .  .  ,  _  ,   ° 

maps  and    ings  both  in  Elgami  and,  in  fact,  in  Elgon.    It  cannot, 

of  course,  be   proved  that  there  is  any  reference  to 

these  buildings  in  Elgami  in  the  legends  told  of  the  mysterious 


Unbekannt 

Mondgehirrja 

Cbntbal  Africa,  after  Edeisi,  1154. 


MITTELMEERa 


Map  of  Sylvanus,  1511. 


Map  of  John  Euysch,  1508. 


mountain  Kumr  ;  but  there  is  perhaps  a  clue  better  worth  fol- 
lowing up  than  that  of  the  Ruwenzori, — which,  by  the  way,  was 
discovered,  not  by  Stanley,  but  by  Casati.  We  cannot  really  be 
induced  to  accept  Ruwenzori  as  the  Mountain  of  the  Moon 
simply  because  Stanley  happened  to  march  past  it.      If  it  is 


ANCIENT  :\[APS  AND   CHARTS. 


421 


granted,  however,  that  we  are  justified  in  finding,  in  the  reports 
of  the  ancients  concerning  the  Mountain  of  the  Moon,  the  proof 
that  they  were  acquainted  with  Unjamwesi,  we  shall  also  he 
forced  to  conclude  that  their  commercial  intercourse  extended 
as  far   as  to  the  Victoria 

1       ,,  ...  MABE  MEDITERRANEVM 

Nyanza,  and  that  either 
travellers  had  penetrated 
from  Egypt  to  the  lakes,  or 
from  the  lakes  to  Egypt. 
The  latter  is  the  more  im- 
prohable,  and  therefore  the 
historical  expert  will  pro- 
nounce in  favour  of  the 
former  conjecture. 

2nd.  The  name  for  the 
Nile  is,  in  Uganda,  Kyira, 
or  Kyila,  the  "  r  "  and  "  1 " 
in  the  Kibantu  language 
heing  the  same  sound.  In 
Usoga  also  I  found  that 
the  word  for  Nile  was  Nyiro 
or  Nyilo.  This  is  the  an- 
cient name  for  the  river.  Accordingly,  the  Nile,  at  the  present 
day,  bears  at  its  source  the  same  name  which  it  bore  thousands 


MARB 
PRA^SOHYM 


Map  of  Sebastian  Cabot  (16th  Cbntuet). 


Map  op  the  Mae&aeita  Philosophica,  1503.* 


of  years  ago  at  its  mouth.     This  may  be  explained,  since  it  is 
highly  improbable  that  it  should  have  happened  by  chance,  by 

*  In  all  the  maps  given  above  the  Mountains  of  the  Moon  are  marked  at 
about  the  spot  of  the  present  Unjamwesi. 


422  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

the  assumption  either  that  people  from  the  north  travelled  the 
regions  of  its  source,  or  vice  versd,  and  that  there  must  have 
Theory  been  a  time  when  men  were  acquainted  with  its  identity 
anoien?"^  at  hoth  cuds  of  the  river.  The  force  of  this  fact  is  in 
relations.  ^^  ^^y  diminished  by  the  circumstance  that  now  im- 
migrant tribes  of  later  date,  along  the  centre  and  upper  course, 
have  given  new  names  to  the  river.  It  is  quite  possible  that 
the  old  aboriginal  inhabitants  remained  established  only  at  the 
source  and  at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  which,  accordingly,  here 
retained  the  old  name.  This,  again,  can  only  be  explained  by 
the  supposition  that  communications  existed  in  ancient  times 
between  the  territories  at  the  mouth  and  those  at  the  source  of 
the  river. 

3rd.  There  are  at  Mengo  thirty-three  royal  tombs  of  the  tribe 
of  the  Wakintu.*  In  the  most  ancient  of  these  are  said  to  be 
buried  primeval  records  of  the  dynasty-.  I  was  not  only 
tombs  at  informed  of  this  by  Muanga,  but  the  missionaries  con- 
*"^°'  firmed  his  statement.  I  tried  to  obtain  permission  to 
have  the  records  disinterred,  but  the  superstition  of  the  Waganda 
is  still  so  deeply  rooted  that  Muanga,  though  in  very  courteous 
words,  refused  my  request.  On  the  other  hand,  I  received  per- 
mission to  visit  some  of  these  tombs.  Dr.  Felkin  tells  me  that 
he  has  already  seen  the  tombs,  but  he  has  not  given-  any  descrip- 
tion of  them.  I  mention,  first  of  all,  that  the  number  of  tombs 
being  thirty-three  does  not  prove  beyond  dispute  that  only  thirty- 
three  generations  of  the  Wakintu  have  ruled  over  Uganda. 
From  the  statements  of  the  Waganda  it  appears  that  the  capital 
of  this  dynasty  was  originally  situated  more  in  the  neighbour- 
hood of  the  Albert  Nyanza.  The  name  Kitarra,  i.e.,  city  of  the 
Wakintu,  that  remains  to  the  present  day  in  the  north-west 
of  Uganda,  seems  to  point  to  the  conclusion  that  the  race 
originally  ruled  in  that  place.  We  cannot  determine  with 
certainty  the  maximum,  but  only  the  minimum  number  of 
ruling  generations  from  the  number  of  the  thirty-three  tombs. 

*  The  title  of  the  king,  as  has  been  before  stated,  is  Kabaka,  or  Mfalme. 
Might  Mfalme  perhaps  be  a  Bantu  modification  of  the  Egyptian  title 
Pharaoh  ?     "  L  ''  and  "  r  "  have  the  same  sound  in  Kibantu. 


TOMBS   OF  DEPARTED  DYNASTIES.  423 

These  tombs  are  arranged  in  the  following  manner  :  On 
approaching  them  from  a  distance  the  traveller  thinks  he  sees 
pyramids  before  him,  but  in  reality  they  are  in  the  form  of 
large  cones,  and  are  built  of  wood  in  Uganda  fashion.  On 
entering,  the  visitor  finds  himself  in  a  dusky  hall,  supported  by 
a  row  of  columns.  In  the  background  of  this  hall  is  a  painted 
curtain,  before  which  are  ranged  the  weapons  and  favourite 
movables  of  the  deceased.  On  putting  aside  the  curtain  a  dark 
area  is  entered,  from  which  shafts  and  corridors  have  been 
excavated  in  the  ground.  In  these  passages  textile  stuffs,  cowrie 
shells,  and  other  articles  of  value,  which  in  Uganda  „ 
represent  money,  are  heaped  up.  At  the  farthest  ex-  in  the 
tremity  of  these  passages  is  deposited  the  coffin,  with  ""^  °' 
the  embalmed  corpse  of  the  dead  person.  It  appears  that  the 
regular  procedure  for  preserving  the  corpse  is  by  drying  it, 
and  swathing  it  tightly  in  wrappings ;  but  the  Waganda  also 
told  me  that  they  understood  the  art  of  preserving  the  body 
from  decomposition  by  injections  into  the  blood.  In  front 
of  the  curtain  twelve  girls  watch  day  and  night  on  behalf 
of  the  one  last  departed ;  at  present,  therefore,  for  Mtesa. 
From  time  to  time  all  the  great  men  of  the  land  come  to 
the  dead  man,  with  drums  and  fifes,  to  pay  him  a  visit,  as  if 
he  were  alive. 

What  speculations  may  be  founded  on  this.P  Manifestly, 
we  have  here  to  do  with  forms  which  are  not  met  with,  to  my 
knowledge,  among  any  other  Bantu  tribe.  How  is  it  that  just 
the  Waganda  have  this  method  of  burying  their  dead  ?  I  know 
very  well  that  customs  of  the  kind  exist  also  in  Mada-  Ancient 
gascar,  and  that  the  old  Aztecs  had  a  similar  practice  of^Aztecs,^ 
of  sepulture  ;  but  these  two  regions  of  culture  are  too  ^*''- 
far  away  to  allow  of  the  idea  of  any  communication  with  them. 
It  is  much  more  probable  to  suppose  here  an  influence  from  the 
north,  from  Egypt.  Certainly  this  proof  has  nothing  absolutely 
striking  about  it,  but  in  connection  with  what  I  have  already 
cited  a  certain  probability  for  my  conjectures  will  always  be 
manifest. 

I  have  already  mentioned  that  Thomson  found  great  rock- 


424  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

cut  buildings  in  Elgon,  which,  according  to  his  description, 
none  but  a  civilised  nation  could  have  produced.  The  Elgon 
rears  its  height  in  the  north-east  of  Uganda.  By  whom  could 
Elgon  rock  such  structures  have  been  raised  P  Other  relations 
dwellings,  j^a^y  jjgj-e  ije  conjectured.  Indians  or  Arabs  might 
have  pressed  forward  from  the  east  coast  over  the  Baringo, 
and  have  reared  these  buildings.  The  most  probable  conjec- 
ture is,  perhaps,  here  again  that  which  points  to  Egyptians. 
From  an  Arabian  description  of  the  Nile  Stanley  extracts 
the  following  narrative,  which  is  interesting,  though  it  sounds 
somewhat  fabulous.  (See  "In  Darkest  Africa,"  vol.  ii., 
p.  282.) 

"  Historians  relate  that  Adam  bequeathed  the  Nile  unto  Seth, 
his  son,  and  it  remained  in  the  possession  of  these  children  of 
prophecy  and  of  religion,  and  they  came  down  to  Egypt  (or 
Cairo),  and  it  was  then  called  Lul ;  so  they  came  and  dwelt 
among  the  mountains.  After  them  came  a  son,  Kinaan,  then 
his  son  Mahaled,  and  then  his  son  Yaoud,  and  then  his  son 
Arab  ac-  Hamu,  and  his  son  Hermes — that  is,  Idrisi  the  prophet 
Anc^ent^  (Enoch).  Idrisi  began  to  reduce  the  land  to  law 
^gypt-  and  order.  The  Nile  used  to  come  flowing  down  upon 
them,  and  they  would  escape  from  it  to  the  high  mountains  and 
to  elevated  land  until  the  river  fell,  then  they  would  plant  what- 
ever country  was  left  bare.  Idrisi  gathered  the  people  of  Egypt, 
and  went  with  them  to  the  first  stream  of  the  Nile,  and  there 
adjusted  the  levelling  of  the  land  and  of  the  water  by  lowering 
the  high  land  and  raising  the  low  land,  and  other  things  accord- 
ing to  the  science  of  astronomy  and  surveying.  Idrisi  was  the 
first  person  who  spoke  and  wrote  books  upon  these  sciences. 
He  then  went  to  the  land  of  Abyssinia  and  Nubia,  and  gathered 
the  people,  and  extended  the  distance  of  the  flow  of  the  Nile, 
or  reduced  it,  according  to  the  swiftness  or  sluggishness  of  the 
stream.  He  even  calculated  the  volume  of  the  water  and  the 
rate  of  the  flow.  He  is  the  first  man  who  regulated  the  flow  of 
the  Nile  to  Egypt.  It  is  said  that  in  the  days  of  Am  Kaam,  one 
of  the  kings  of  Egypt,  Idrisi  was  taken  up  to  heaven,  and  he 
prophesied  the  coming  of  the  flood  ;  so  he  remained  on  the  other 


THE  CAVES   OF  EL   GUMI.  425 

side  of  the  Equator,  and  there  built  a  palace  on  the  slopes  of 
Mount  Gumr.  He  built  it  of  copper,  and  made  eighty-five 
statues  of  copper,  the  waters  of  the  Nile  flowing  out  through  the 
mouths  of  these  statues,  and  then  flowing  into  a  great  lake,  and 
thence  to  Egypt." 

"  Idyar  el  Wall  says :  '  The  length  of  the  Nile  is  two  months' 
journey  in  Moslem  territory,  and  four  months'  journey  ^^ 
in   uninhabited   country.'     Its  source  is  from   Mount  waii's 
Oumr,  beyond  the  Equator,  and  that  it  flows  to  the  ^'""'™*- 
light,  coming  out  of  the  river  of  darkness,  and  flows  by  the 
base  of  Mount  Gumr." 

"King  Am  Kaam,  mentioned  above,  is  Hermes  I.  The  devils 
carried  him  to  this  mountain,  which  is  called  Gumr,  and  there 
he  saw  how  the  Nile  flows  out  of  the  Black  Sea  and  enters  into 
the  Mountain  of  Gumr.  King  Am  Kaam  built,  on  the  slopes 
of  the  mountain,  a  palace,  having  eighty -five  statues,  to  which 
he  collected  all  the  water  that  flows  from  this  mountain,  con- 
ducting it  in  vaulted  conduits  until  the  water  reaches  the 
statues,  and  flows  out  of  their  mouths  in  measured  quantities 
and  calculated  cubic  contents." 

If  these  descriptions  have  reference  to  any  real  facts,  would 
one  not  naturally,  at  the  sound  of  the  name  Gumr,  be  reminded 
of  El  Gumi,  in  which  the  Elgon  towers  aloft  with  its  Gumr  and 
unexplained  and  mysterious  cave  dwellings  ?  From  "^""" 
Mount  Elgon  the  Nsoia  pours  itself  into  Lake  Victoria,  and  on 
in  another  direction,  though  at  some  distance  from  it,  the  Nile 
flows  past  the  slopes  of  the  mountain.  Could  the  imaginative 
narrator  have  heard  some  confused  rumours  of  magnificent 
Egyptian  undertakings  in  El  Gumi,  of  which  the  caverns 
discovered  by  Thomson  are  to  the  present  day  dumb  but 
eloquent  witnesses  ?  In  explanation  I  here  give  an  extract 
of  Thomson's  description  of  them  ("Through  Massailand," 
pp.  510  and  512). 

"There  lay  before  me  a  huge  pit,  thirty  feet  deep,  one 
hundred  feet  long,  and  about  twenty  broad,  cut  perpendicularly 
out  of  a  volcanic  agglomerate  of  great  compactness."  In  this 
cave  Thomson  found  entire  villages.     "  On  inquiry  as  to  who 


426  KEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

made  this  curious  excavation,  I  was  told  that  it  was  God's  work. 
'How,'  said  they,  'could  we,  with  our  puny  implements'  (ex- 
hibitiiio;  a  toy-like  axe,  their  only  non-warlike  instrument),  'cut 
out  a  hole  like  this  ?  And  this  is  nothing  in  comparison  with 
others  which  you  may  see  all  round  the  mountain.  See  there, 
and  there,  and  there  !  These  are  of  such  great  size  that  they 
penetrate  far  into  utter  darkness,  and  even  we  have  not  seen  the 
end  of  them.  In  some  there  are  large  villages,  with  entire  herds 
of  cattle.  And  yet  you  ask  who  made  them !  They  are  truly 
God's  work  ! '  .  .  .  There  was  absolutely  no  tradition  regarding 
these  caves  among  the  people.  '  Our  fathers  lived  here,  and 
their  fathers  did  the  same,'  was  the  invariable  reply  to  all  my 
questions.  .  .  .  And  yet  the  caves  bore  incontestable  evidence 
on  the  face  of  them  that  they  had  neither  a  natural  nor  super- 
natural origin.  They  must  have  been  excavated  by  the  hand  of 
man.  That  was  a  fact  about  which  there  could  absolutely  be  no 
two  opinions." 

Thomson  himself  comes  to  the  following  conclusion  :  "  Look- 
ing at  everything,  I  can  come  to  but  one  conclusion,  and  that  is, 
that  in  a  very  remote  era  some  very  powerful  race,  considerably 
advanced  in  arts  and  civilisation,  excavated  these  great  caves 
in  their  search  for  precious  stones,  or  possibly  some  precious 
metal.  .  .  .  Are  we  to  suppose  that  the  Egyptians  really  got 
so  far  south  ?  If  not,  what  other  race  could  have  cut  these 
extraordinary  recesses  ?  " 

And  now  let  us  hear  what  the  people  in  Uganda  still,  at 
the  present  day,  relate  concerning  the  origin  of  the  first  Kintu. 
The  first  Kintu  came  from  the  north  to  Uganda,  and  was  in 
every  respect  a  supernatural  being.  He  possessed  the  know- 
ledge of  all  things,  and  brought  civilisation  and  culture  into 
the  land.  After  having  given  many  proofs  of  his  supernatural 
greatness,  Kintu  married  a  daughter  of  heaven,  and  from  this 
marriage  sprang  the  dynasty  that  at  the  present  day  still  sits 
on  the  throne  of  Uganda.  (See  Felkin,  "Waganda,  Tribe  of 
Central  Africa,"  "  Proceedings  of  the  Royal  Geographical 
Society,"  pp.  764,  765.) 

Thus  we  meet  with  mythical  indications  from  Egypt  con- 


IDEAS  FOR  FURTHER  INVESTIGATION.  427 

cerning  the  undertakings  of  a  remarkable  man  proceeding 
southwards,  and  in  Uganda  we  find  similar  mythical  recollec- 
tions of  the  appearance  of  a  hero  from  the  north.  Even  at  the 
present  day  we  find  in  El  Gumi  magnificent  monuments  of 
old  civilised  work,  and  in  Arabian  narratives  we  meet  with 
the  name  Gumri,  which  has  a  marvellous  analogy  in  sound 
with  El  Gumi.  Do  not  these  facts  combine  to  prove  that 
there  was  a  time  when  Egyptian  enterprise  actually  extended 
as  far  as  the  source  of  the  White  Nile  ?  The  historic  tradition 
which  still  lives  in  Uganda  tells  of  the  conquest  of  the  Historic 
entire  territory  by  a  white  race  that  descended  from  the  a'^^iie^  °^ 
north,  crossed  the  Nile  at  Mruli,  and  united  the  whole  ^^''^^ 
region  around  Lakes  Victoria  and  Albert  into  one  great  king- 
dom. These  are  the  herdsmen  tribes  of  Beyma  M^ho,  as  I  have 
stated,  have  remained  to  this  day  an  unmixed  race  in  Uganda, 
being  either  of  old  Abyssinian  origin,  or  at  all  events  repre- 
sentatives of  nations  from  the  north  of  Uganda.  Does  this 
tradition  stand  in  any  connection  with  the  old  fabulous  myths 
which  I  have  just  mentioned,  and  according  to  which  the  son  of 
an  Egyptian  king  assembled  the  peoples  of  Abyssinia  and  the 
Soudan,  to  lead  them  to  the  source  of  the  Nile  ?  And  to  what 
a  great  historic  revolution  does  not  all  this  point ! 

I  must  confine  myself  to  throwing  out  all  these  ideas  as 
problems  for  further  investigations,  and  to  suggest  explanations 
for  which,  perhaps,  no  real  premises  may  ever  be  found,  unproved 
as  they  come  to  us  only  through  the  misty  dawn  of  t^«»"«^' 
prehistoric  times.  As  memorials,  there  remain  to  us  only  the 
rock-cut  dwellings  of  Elgon  and  the  sepulchral  monuments 
of  the  Wakintu ;  but  who  can  assert  that  these  stand  in  direct 
connection  with  each  other  ? 

I  sum  up  briefly,  under  the  following  heads,  the  result  of  my 
own  observations  and  conclusions. 

1.  Ancient  Egyptian  relations  and  civilising  influences 
spread,  either  directly  or  indirectly,  as  far  as  Uganda,  and 
their  fame  at  least  reached  even  to  Unjamwesi  (the  Land  of 
the  Moon).  ' 

2.  In  historic  times  an  immigration  took  place  into  Uganda, 


428  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

of  a  race  stronger  than  the  Bantu,  and  they  founded  a  great 
kingdom,  under  the  dynasty  of  the  Wakintu,  and  from  their 
Summary  of  intermixing  here  with  the  aborigines  has  arisen  the 
ticfnslnd    Uganda  nation  of  the  present. 

conclusions.  3  Perhaps  it  was  this  very  immigration  which 
brought  about  the  cultured  relations  with  Egypt  to  which  the 
graves  of  the  kings  seem  to  point.  One  might  conclude  that 
these  proceeded  from  nomad  tribes  of  Southern  Egypt  or  of 
Abyssinia,  perhaps  under  the  leadership  of  an  Egyptian  prince 
(Mfalme).  Or  it  might  be,  that  the  trade  relations  of  ancient 
Egypt,  extending  to  Lake  Victoria,  and  this  authentic  immigra- 
tion from  the  north,  were  separate  from  each  other,  and  only  in 
Uganda  became  amalgamated  into  that  system  of  Avhich  obscure 
traces  can  be  still  recognised. 

4.  The  Wakintu  are  described,  both  in  legend  and  tradition, 
as  coming  of  a  far  superior  race,  which  brought  the  first  begin- 
nings of  culture  to  Uganda,  and  in  consequence  are  venerated, 
to  the  present  day,  with  divine  honours.  The  members  of  this 
dynasty  still  retain,  according  to  their  own  belief,  the  gift  of 
prophecy,  of  which  Mtesa  frequently  makes  practical  use.  We 
may  conclude  that  in  them  and  their  surroundings  the  reason 
may  be  found  for  the  higher  position  occupied  by  the  Waganda, 
compared  with  the  other  Bantu,  and  for  their  country  possessing 
a  proportionately  greater  history. 

It  was  not  possible  for  me  to  prove  anything  definite.  It 
would  be  necessary  either  to  seek  for  exact  information  in 
Egyptian  hieroglyphic  evidence,  or,  if  the  statement  be  true  that 
records  exist  in  the  most  ancient  tombs  of  the  kings,  to  disinter 
these  records  and  decipher  them.  Were  we  to  succeed  in  obtain- 
ing accurate  knowledge,  a  new  light  would  be  shed  both  upon 
the  history  of  the  Egyptians  and  the  development  of  affairs  in 
Central  Africa. 

***** 

Amidst  such  occupations  and  conjectures  the  days  in  Uganda 
passed  away  rapidly  enough.  In  the  afternoons  I  was  in  the 
habit  of  taking  longer  or  shorter  walks  with  Mons.  Lourdel ;  or 
the  gentlemen  of  the  English  Mission  would  come  to  spend  the 


INTRIGUES   OF  TEE  KATIKIRO.  429 

evening  with  me.  The  afternoon  hours  I  frequently  spent  with 
Muanga,  with  whom  I  continued  uninterruptedly  to  maintain 
friendly  relations.  I  also  associated  much  and  gladly  with 
other  great  men  of  Waganda.  With  the  Katikiro  alone 
I  could  not  get  on  a  good  footing.  At  the  beginning  he  tiro  and  Ms 
strove  to  win  me  over  by  clumsy  flattery.  Failing  in  °®''*™®'^*°- 
this,  he  thought  proper  to  adopt  towards  me  the  lofty  demeanour 
of  the  Prime  Minister  of  Uganda  towards  strangers.  Every 
moment  his  servant  Stephano  brought  me  the  message,  "  Kati- 
kiro amekwita  "  ("The  Katikiro  sends  for  you").  At  first  I 
would  politely  decline  to  go  to  him.  At  length  the  thing  became 
rather  too  strong  for  me.  "  The  Katikiro?  "  "Yes,  you  are  to 
come  to  him  immediately."  "  Ask  the  Katikiro  whether  he  is 
gone  mad.  If  he  wishes  to  see  me,  he  can  come  to  me  ;  if  I 
wish  to  see  him  I  will  go  to  him  ;  but  I  do  not  wish  to  see  him." 
This  put  an  end  to  his  intrusiveness  ;  but  from  that  time  forth 
our  meetings  at  court  were  of  a  bitter-sweet  character. 

In  the  English  Mission  in  Uganda  I  had  also  found  some 
books,  amongst  them  Shakespeare,  and  Gibbon's  "  Decline  and 
Fall,"  which  I  was  accustomed  to  read.  March  15th,  the 
day  fixed  for  my  departure,  came  round  ;  but  nothing  was  to  be 
seen  of  the  boats.  Dr.  Felkin  is  right  in  saying  that  it  Difficulties 
is  easier  to  get  into  Uganda  than  to  get  out  of  it.  On  ^^  ^s»"**- 
reading  the  accounts  of  travellers  through  this  country  we  find 
this  statement  fully  verified. 

Consequently,  on  March  16th  I  betook  myself  to  King 
Muanga,  and  said  to  him,  "  To-day  the  boats  were  to  have  been 
ready  for  me.     Where  are  they  ?  " 

"  I  have  received  information,"  he  replied,  "  that  they  are 
already  assembled  at  Sesse,  and  are  on  their  way  to  Uganda." 

"  As  they  have  not  yet  arrived,  I  prefer  to  go  by  land,, 
through  South  Uganda,  to  Bunjako,  and  to  reach  Sesse  in  that 
way.     I  intend  to  leave  here  on  Monday." 

"  Wait  another  week,"  answered  Muanga,  "and  if  the  boats 
have  not  arrived  by  that  time  you  can  depart ;  but  I  am  certain 
that  they  will  be  here." 

"  Very  well,  then,  I  shall  wait  another  week." 


430  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

On  arriving  at  home  I  received  a  letter  from  Herr  von 
Tiedemann,  confirming  the  statement  made  by  Muanga  regard- 
ing the  assembling  of  the  boats. 

But  the  next  week  went  by,  and  again  nothing  was  to  be 
heard  of  the  boats.  During  this  week  I  made  friends  with 
A  lady  in  Muanga's  mother,  the  favourite  wife  of  Mtesa,  whom 
Uganda,  j  yisited,  and  with  whom  I  exchanged  presents  of 
various  kinds.  She  is  a  woman  who  can  be  really  called  a 
lady,  about  forty  years  of  age,  of  still  youthful  appearance,  and 
extremely  agreeable  manners. 

On  March  21st  I  informed  Muanga  that  I  had  finally 
decided  to  leave  for  Bunjako,  opposite  Sesse,  and  that  I  should 
break  up  my  camp  on  Monday,  March  24th.  On  the  22nd, 
just  as  I  had  finished  dinner,  and  was  smoking  my  pipe,  the 
king  sent  to  me  with  the  request  that  I  would  step  across 
to  the  court.  I  quickly  donned  my  uniform  and  hurried  off. 
Important  in  the  hope  of  at  length  receiving  tidings  of  the 
wUh  the^  arrival  of  the  boats.  I  found  Mons.  Lourdel  and 
king.  Messrs.  Walker  and  Gordon  already  in  waiting.  On 
my  arrival  Mons.  Lourdel  informed  me  that  a  letter  had  arrived 
from  Mr.  Jackson,  which  I  should  request  the  king  to  let  me 
see.  Muanga  sought  at  first,  from  what  motive  I  do  not  know, 
to  prevent  my  reading  the  letter.  On  my  repeated  request, 
however,  he  handed  it  to  me,  remarking,  at  the  same  time, 
I  was  not  to  allow  myself  to  be  disturbed  by  its  contents,  as  he 
attached  no  sort  of  importance  to  it.  I  took  Jackson's  letter 
in  my  hand, — and  who  shall  describe  my  astonishment  on 
reading  the  following  statement  made  by  this  gentleman  ?  He 
had  received  information,  he  wrote,  that  Dr.  Carl  Peters  and 
Herr  von  Tiedemann  had  reached  Uganda,  on  their  march 
towards  Emin  Pasha.  He  considered  it  his  duty  to  inform 
Mr  Jack-  ^^^^?,^  that  these  two  gentlemen  were  sojourning 
son's         in  these  regions  without  the  consent  of  their  Govern- 

letter  . 

ment.  With  the  sanction  of  the  German  and  Enghsh 
Governments,  he  had  undertaken  the  task  of  preventing  their 
further  progress,  and,  if  necessary,  of  arresting  them.  Being 
absent  himself,  he  now  requested  his  friend  Muanga  to  carry 


2rR.  JACKSON'S  PROCEEDINGS.  431 

out  this  arrest,  as  these  two  men  had  clone  mischief  enough 
in  Africa  already.  Moreover,  he  hoped  soon  himself  to  see 
Muanga,  as  he  was  coming  with  five  hundred  men. 

The  letter  was  dated  in  the  first  days  of  March,  and  was 
marked  as  being  sent  from  Kawirondo.  I  have  already  stated 
that  I  had  repeatedly  offered  Mr.  Jackson  friendly  co-operation 
in  these  regions,  that  I  had  given  him  information  concerning 
the  road  to  Uganda,  and  had  loyally  made  known  to  him  my 
negotiations  with  the  king.  And  this  letter  to  the  king  of 
Uganda  was  Mr.  Jackson's  reply !  He  had  been  afraid  to 
march  into  the  place  with  five  hundred  men,  and  knew  Muanga 
only  as  the  murderer  of  Hannington  and  the  persecutor  of  the 
Christians.  He  now  requested  this  ruler  of  Uganda,  dreaded 
by  him,  to  arrest  Herr  von  Tiedemann  and  myself ! 

Mr.  Jackson  must  have  known,  by  the  whole  tenor  of  my 
expedition,  what  such  a  request  meant.  Above  all,  he  must 
have  known  that  I  would  allow  myself  to  be  arrested  Danger  of 
alive  by  no  man,  and  that,  on  the  other  hand,  Muanga,  aassacre. 
if  he  felt  inclined  to  accede  to  the  wishes  of  the  English,  would 
(Certainly  not  have  ordered  simply  our  arrest,  but  would  make 
things  safe  by  the  massacre  of  our  whole  expeditionary  force. 
This  did  not  deter  him  from  sending  such  a  proposal  to  Uganda. 
I  must  confess,  that  the  first  sentiment  I  experienced  on  reading 
this  letter  was  one  of  contempt  for  the  Englishmen  in  Kawi- 
rondo, who  appeared  to  me  to  be  just  the  people,  indeed,  to  stop 
the  German  Emin  Pasha  Expedition,  or  even  to  arrest  us ! 
Mr.  Jackson,  with  his  pedantic  way  of  carrying  through  his 
expedition,  and  his  timid  indecision,  was  the  right  man  to 
make  an  impression  on  me  !  My  second  sensation  was  one 
of  heartfelt  pain,  that  an  Englishman  should  venture,  painfui 
here  in  Uganda,  to  claim  the  authority  of  the  German  sensations. 
Government  in  taking  measures  against  a  German  expedition. 
It  was  not  until  afterwards  that  I  ascertained  that  Mr.  Jackson 
was  here  speaking  advisedly.  On  March  22nd,  after  reading 
this  letter,  I  could  quietly  inform  Muanga,  from  my  firm  belief, 
that  this  statement  of  Jackson's  was  contrary  to  fact. 

"  It  is  well  known  in  what  relation  Mr.  Jackson  stands  to  me." 


432  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

"  Certainly,  certainly  !  "  said  Muanga,  to  whom  this  explana- 
tion appeared  quite  plausible. 

After  we  had  all  taken  leave  of  the  king,  I  again  returned 
to  him  with  Mons.  Lourdel. 

Muanga  once  more  took  up  Jackson's  letter,  spat  upon  it,  and 
threw  it  behind  him  over  his  shoulder.     Then  he  said  to  me, — 

"  Jackson  is  my  enemy,  and  I  am  the  enemy  of  Jackson. 
Now  I  am  your  friend.  The  Katikiro  and  the  Englishmen  have 
Muanga's  hecu  here,  and  have  urged  me  to  invite  Mr.  Jackson 
declaration,  g^gg^^j^  to  Uganda.  If  you  like,  take  my  soldiers,  go  to^ 
meet  them,  and  do  with  them  what  you  think  right." 

"This  does  not  appear  to  me  to  be  either  to  your  interest  or 
to  the  advantage  of  us  all,"  I  replied.  "  It  is  in  Europe  that 
whatever  is  to  take  place  here  in  Uganda  must  be  decided,  and 
Dr.  Peters's  it  IS  better  not  to  let  myself  be  hindered  in  my  depar- 
^^^^^-  ture  towards  the  lake.  Mr.  Jackson  is  in  the  habit  of 
marching  very  slowly,  and  who  can  tell  when  he  may  arrive 
here,  or  whether  he  will  come  at  all  ?  It  is  better  that  I  should 
acquire  for  you  the  lands  on  the  west  side  of  the  lake,  and 
then  make  my  way  to  th^e  coast,  to  look  after  your  affairs- 
there." 

"  This  appears  to  me  the  better  way  also,"  said  Muanga.  "  I 
have  received  intelligence  that  the  boats  have  already  reached 
Ntebe.     If  you  will,  you  can  go  thither  and  embark  in  them." 

How  right  I  was,  in  my  supposition  that  Jackson  would  be 
long  indeed  before  he  came  to  Uganda,  was  proved  in  the  follow- 
ing month.  He  did  not  arrive  there  until  the  latter  half  of 
April. 

In  those  days  violent  disputes  took  place  between  Muanga 
and  the  Katikiro.  Though  Muanga  was  ready  to  permit 
Dispute  Jackson's  visit  to  Uganda,  he  persistently  asserted  that 
between     he  considered  himself  freed  from  all  obligations  towards 

jxLuanga  ana  ^ 

theKati-    the  English,  and  that  he  had  not  the  slightest  inten- 
tion to  renew  such  obligations  with  them. 
I  gave  orders  that  everything  should  be  made  ready  for  my 
departure.     On  the  afternoon  of  March  22nd  I  took  a  formal 
leave  of  Muanga. 


MUANGA'S  LOYAL   EXPRESSIONS.  433 

"Tell  the  people  of  Europe,"  said  he,  "that  in  case  the 
English  should  form  an  alliance  with  their  friends,  the  Arahs, 
and  attack  me,  I  protest,  through  you,  against  every 
act  of  violence  on  their  part.  If  the  English  try  to  set  message  to 
up  their  Protectorate  in  Uganda  I  shall  make  war  ^"°p®- 
against  them.  If  I  am  beaten,  I  shall  go  forth  with  all  my  people 
to  another  country.  This  I  empower  you  to  make  known  in 
Europe,  and  do  you  come  hack  to  me  soon,  my  friend.  I  know 
that  you  are  my  friend,  and  beg  you  to  say  this  to  your  great 
Emperor.  I  shall  always  remain  the  friend  of  those  Europeans 
who  wish  to  live  peaceably  in  Uganda,  but  especially  the  friend  of 
the  German  people.    This  I  swear  by  God  and  by  Jesus  Christ." 

"  Farewell,  Muanga.  I  came  willingly  to  Uganda  when  you 
called  me,  and  have  been  glad  to  help  you.  You  know  for  cer- 
tain that  1  shall  always  remain  your  friend,  and  shall  always  be 
glad  to  help  you." 

Then  Muanga  replied,  "  Accept  my  thanks  for  what  you  have 
done  for  me  and  the  ^Yaganda,  and  tell  the  Europeans  and  tell 
your  Emperor  to  send  you  to  me  again." 

Contrary  to  his  usual  practice,  Muanga    accompanied  me 
to  the  outer  gate  of  his  palace.     Another  pressure  of  civilities  of 
the  hand,  and  I  hurried  down  the  hill  of  Mengo  towards  ^^^  ^"^• 
my  camp. 

Two  hours  later,  a  messenger  from  the  king  appeared  before 
me,  with  the  announcement  that  Karema  was  marching  from  the 
north,  that  he  had  burnt  a  number  of  villages,  and  that  in  a 
day  or  two  he  might  arrive  before  Mengo.  Under  these  circum- 
stances Muango  warned  me  not  to  proceed  along  the  land  route 
by  Ntebe. 

"  Wait  here  a  few  days  longer,  until  we  receive  accurate 
intelligence." 

"  How  does  Muanga  know  this  ?  "  I  asked. 

"  The  Katikiro  is  with  him,  and  has  brought  the  man  with 
him  who  came  with  the  news  from  the  north."  intrigues 

"  Then  tell  Muanga,  no  announcement  made  by  the  of  the 

^       .     .  .  Katikiro. 

Katikiro  shall  prevent  my  carrymg  out  our  arrange- 
ments, and   that  I   intend   starting   to-morrow   morning." 


434  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

I  saw  cleai"ly  at  once,  what  proved  a  few  days  later  to  be  the 
complete  truth,  that  the  Katikiro  had  made  use  of  Karema's 
advance  as  a  ruse  to  induce  the  king  to  call  Mr.  Jackson  to  his 
aid,  and  thus  to  serve  the  English  cause.  I  was  determined  to 
put  a  spoke  in  his  wheel  in  this  matter. 

The  next  morning  I  betook  myself,  with  my  whole  column, 
which  was  kept  in  readiness  for  marching,  in  the  first  instance 
to  the  Roman  Catholic  Mission,  to  obtain  further  information. 
A  heavy  downpour  of  rain  gave  occasion  for  giving  my  men 
refuge  in  the  barns  of  the  station,  and  deferring  their  march. 
Mens.  Lourdel  informed  me  that  the  Catholic  party,  to  which 
Muanga  belongs,  had  meanwhile  received  reports  of  Karema's 
approach  ;  and  soon  after  I  received,  in  addition,  an  imploring 
letter  from  Muanga. 

"  Stay  in  Uganda,  my  friend.  Karema  and  the  Arabs  and 
„        ,     Wanioro  are  coming.     To-day  or  to-morrow  we  shall 

Muanga's  ''  o  .; 

imploring  have  war.  Do  not  forsake  me  in  this  need,  and  I  shall 
be  eternally  grateful  to  you." 
My  resolution  was  at  once  taken.  I  must  not,  under  any 
circumstances,  quit  Uganda  until  this  matter  had  been  decided. 
On  the  morning  of  March  24th,  believing  a  struggle  to  be  immi- 
nent, and  hearing  that  the  boats  had  reached  Kasi,  opposite 
Bulingogwe,  I  first  asked  permission  to  send  away  the  women 
and  invalids  of  our  expedition  at  once  as  far  as  Sesse,  where 
they  would  be  in  safety  under  the  protection  of  Herr  von  Tiede- 
mann.  This  was  at  once  granted,  and  the  column  set  out,  in 
consequence,  at  nine  o'clock,  for  Lake  Victoria.  Retaining  only 
Collecting  twenty-five  men  at  Uganda,  I  returned  with  these  to 
the  forces.  ^^  camp,  and  then  sent  to  the  king,  requesting  him 
immediately  to  call  together  a  general  council  of  war,  consisting 
of  the  army  and  the  great  men  of  the  Waganda.  By  one  o'clock, 
all  Mengo  and  Rubaja  were  full  of  Muanga's  picturesquely 
adorned  dancing  soldiers.  I  then  betook  myself,  with  my 
Somalis,  to  the  ro3'al  fortress,  where  the  chief  men  of  the  land 
were  already  ass^embled.  A  fantastic  and  spirit-stirring  im- 
pression was  produced  by  the  approach  of  the  several  troops  of 
soldiers  surrounding  their  king.     Carrying  their  muskets  sloped 


THE   GREAT  COUNCIL  AND  ITS   OPINION.  435 

over  the  right  shoulder,  one  column  after  another  came 
dancing  along,  singing  fierce  songs,  in  which  they  swore  de- 
struction to  Muanga's  enemies,  and  fidelity  to  their  king.  The 
entire  assembly  rose  on  my  entrance,  and  •  I  addressed  Muanga 
as  follows : — 

"  "Well,  Muanga,  Karema  is  advancing.  This  is  good,  for 
to-day  we  can  bring  this  whole  matter  to  an  end." 

An  approving  laugh  rang  through  the  spacious  hall.  Then 
I  continued, — 

"  Weil,  this  affair  must  be  cleared  up.  If  Karema  is  in  the 
north  of  Uganda,  burning  your  villages  and  driving  away  your 
subjects,  let  us  go  forth  this  very  afternoon  to  beat  him  Defiance  to 
and  drive  him  back  to  Unjoro.  If  this  pleases  you,  I  ^^^^ema. 
am  prepared,  with  the  few  men  that  remain  with  me,  to  put 
myself  at  the  head  of  your  army,  and  will  undertake  the 
responsibility  of  overthrowing  the  enemy." 

"  The  tidings  are  still  uncertain,"  replied  Muanga.  "  What 
say  you,  Gabriel  ?  " 

Gabriel,  the  commander  of  the  Waganda  troops,   and  my 
very  particular  friend,  prostrated  himself  before  the  king,  ^^^^^^^  ^^^ 
and  said,  "  0  Mfalme  !  the  white  man,  the  Doctori,  is  difference 
right.     Let  us  march  northwards,  and  attack  Karema." 

Thereupon  the  Katikiro's  confidential  man  arose,  and  said, 
"We  Protestants,  when  we  returned  with  thee  a  few  weeks 
since  to  Uganda,  bound  ourselves  to  fight  Karema  and  the  Arabs 
only  in  case  they  should  attack  your  capital ;  but  we  are  not 
bound  to  march  to  the  north,  and  to  attack  Karema  ourselves. 
Tell  Dr.  Patasi  to  wait  here  until  Karema  attacks  us  in  Mengo. 
If  he  desires  to  go,  however,  let  him  await  the  arrival  of  Mr. 
Jackson  with  the  English  expedition,  when  we  shall  be  strong 
enough  to  beat  not  only  Karema,  but  the  Wanjoro  as  well." 

I  rose  and  said,  "  We  are  strong  enough  as  we  are  to  beat 
both  Karema  and  the  Wanjoro,  and  if  the  Katikiro  and  his 
party  do  not  wish  to  march  with  us,  then  let  us  go  j,^  ^^^^^^ 
alone  to  attack  Karema,  or  at  least  find  out  whether  ^^ii^^'t;^"'^ 
he  is  in  Uganda  at  all.     If  you  do  not  like  this  either, 
then  send  out  scouts  to  bring  in  tidings  from  the  north.     If,  as 


436  XKW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

the  Katikiro  asserts,  Karema  is  really  only  one  day's  march 
north  of  Mengo,  the  scouts  can  bring  us  news  by  to-morrow 
afternoon.  I  will  stay  in  Uganda  till  the  tidings  come.  Should 
this  prove  not  to  be  the  case,  I  will  then  march  to  Lake 
Victoria  to  join  my  boats,  and  leave  all  the  rest  to  you.  This  is 
my  determination.     Now  say  whether  it  is  good  or  not." 

Muanga  replied,  "  Thou  hast  spoken  rightly.  If  the  Kati- 
kiro and  his  party  will  not  join  us  in  the  fight,  let  us  send  out 
scouts,  who  shall  bring  us  tidings  by  to-morrow  afternoon.  If 
they  tell  us  that  Karema  is  coming,  fight  with  us  against  him  ; 
but  if  they  report  that  the  news  is  a  lie,  go  to  the  lake,  where 
the  boats  shall  remain  waiting  for  thee  in  the  meantime." 

This  proposal  met  with  general  acceptance,  and  I  was  told 
it  was  immediately  to  be  put  into  execution.  Accordingly,  I 
Mr.  wai-  returned  to  my  camp.  That  evening  Mr.  Walker,  of 
ker's  visit,  ^jjg  English  Mission,  came  to  tell  me  that  he  did  not 
believe  any  scouts  had  been  sent  out.  He  was  already  inclined 
to  think  that  the  whole  matter  was  a  fabrication. 

I  waited  until  the  following  afternoon,  when  Mons.  Lourdel 
called,  to  inform  me  he  had  received  confidential  information 
that  Karema  was  not  in  the  country  at  all,  and  that  the  whole 
story  had,  according  to  my  former  supposition,  been  invented 
merely  to  frighten  Muanga,  and  to  force  him  once  more  to  make 
the  offer  to  Jackson  that  he  would  accept  the  British  Protectorate 
in  return  for  assistance.  In  the  afternoon  I  received  a  letter 
Gabriel's  from  Gabriel,  which  I  still  have  in  my  possession.  He 
letter.  wrote  thus :  "  My  scouts  have  just  come  in,  and  they 
report  that  neither  Mahdi,  nor  Karema,  nor  Wanjoro  are  in 
Uganda,  and  that  the  whole  thing  is  a  lie.  Leave  here  to- 
morrow if  you  wish.  If,  on  the  contrary,  you  will  stay  here, 
we  shall  rejoice." 

I  now  gave  decisive  orders  for  departure  the  next  morning. 
That  evening  Gabriel  spent  at  my  supper  table,  where  I  regaled 
him  with  tea. 

We  talked  much  of  Germany  and  Uganda,  and  he  expressed 
a  wish  to  visit  me  some  day  in  Germany.  But  it  would  be  still 
better  if  I  should  soon  return  to  Uganda,  to  arrange  all  matters 


DEPARTURE  FOR  BULINGOGWE.  437 

in  friendship  between  the  Germans  and  the  English.  I  may 
honestly  say,  that  it  was  a  matter  of  genuine  sorrow  for  me  to 
part  from  the  distinguished  and  quiet-mannered  young  Waganda, 
the  only  real  native  gentleman  whom  I  met  with  in  this 
country. 

It  was  still  early  next  morning  when,  according  to  the  old 
custom,  we  set  off  southward  with  beat  of  drum.  The  air  had 
been  cleared  in  the  night  by  thunder -showers,  that  had 
lasted  up  to  nearly  six  o'clock,  and  a  brilliant  sun  the  morn- 
illumined  the  smiling  landscape.  What  a  different  ^"^' 
picture  I  now  saw  before  me  from  that  of  the  desolated  Uganda, 
on  the  day  when  I  first  entered  it !  Everywhere,  once  more, 
broad  and  well-kept  roads  and  happy  groups  of  people  ;  every- 
where the  blessing  of  labour  in  field  and  village.  A  feeling  of 
gratitude  arose  in  my  heart  at  the  remembrance  that  it  had 
been  vouchsafed  to  me  to  assist  in  bringing  about  this  peaceful 
state  of  things  in  the  country,  and  I  experienced  a  joyous  hope 
for  the  future.  The  German  Emin  Pasha  Expedition  had  been 
able  to  do  good  work  after  all ;  and  who  could  tell  what  further 
results  it  might  be  instrumental  in  producing  for  the  later 
development  of  Central  Africa  ? 

Thus  with  light  hearts  we  travelled  ever  in  a  southerly 
direction  through  the  well-cultivated  country.  Soon  the  fields 
gave  way  to  a  park-like  forest,  traversed  by  a  wide  road,  a  land  of 
Now  we  enter  the  region  of  the  hills  which  tower  P^*''*y- 
around  the  Victoria  Lake  on  the  north.  Suddenly  the  water 
gleams  at  our  feet  on  the  left.  The  shimmering  blue  lake  lies 
stretched  before  our  astonished  gaze.  We  descend  the  slope,  and 
I  ask, — 

"What   country  is  it  that  we  see  before  us  over  ^^^^^^^^ 
there  .P"  ofBuUn- 

gogwe. 

"  It  is  Bulingogwe,"  replied  Marco. 

The  boats  lay  at  Kasi,  on  the  right  side  of  the  furthermost 
inlet  of  Murchison  Bay.  The  Wasesse  were  speedily  made 
aware  of  our  arrival,  and  scarcely  half-an-hour  had  elapsed 
before  the  quaint  boats,  with  their  far -projecting  prows,  were 
running  across  to  take  my  entire  column  on  board.     In  rapid 


438 


.YEW  LIGHT   ON   DA^K  AFRICA. 


course  our  boats  £;-o  liissiuii;  through  the  calm  mirror  of  waters  to 
Buliugoiiwe.  Ill  ten  minutes  we  reach  the  island,  and  I  give 
orders  to  set  up  our  camp  u])on  the  picturesque  slope  overlooking 
]Murcliisiiii  Bay  and  the  broad  lake  towards  the  south.  Behind 
us  lies  the  dust  of  Uganda's  intrigues  ;  before  us  rises  a,  new  and 
Brilliant  great  jjroblem,  which  we  have  to  solve.  For  the  first 
f,fi''„t'J,?/'  time  for  weeks,  the  little  marchina;  flag  of  the  German 

lul  expec-  '  ^         ~ 

tations.  Euiiu  Paslia  Expedition,  which  had  seen  the  Kenia  and 
been  carried  before  us  in  our  Massai  encouuters,  flutters  in  the 
breeze. 

The  eye  wanders  with  delight  over  the  glorious  bay,  with  its 
wood-crowned  slopes,  and  the  heart  swells  with  exultant  joy. 
A  grand  DifRcult  tasks  aud  serious  obstacles  may  yet  lie  between 
prospect.  ^^j_,  ..^^^^  p^^j,  native  country ;  but  now,  for  the  first  time, 
the  words  of  Schiller  arise  in  our  minds  ; — 

"  For  each  vessel's  stately  prow 
Toward  health  and  home  is  pointed  now, 
And  rifiht  homeward  ai'o  we  wendintf." 


V, 


MsaMsf^'  . 


Goethe. 


ON  the  island  of  Biilingogwe,  I 
had  been'  passing  my  time,  on 
March  26th,  in  reading  Carl3de's  "Life 
of  Frederick  the  Great,"  when  snd- 
denl3%  towards  evening,  my  attention 
was  aroused  by  loud  calls,  proceeding 


from  the  mountain  ridge  which  intersects  the  island  in  a  westerly 
direction.     On  going  to  the  entrance  of  my  tent,  which  was 


440  NEW  LIGHT  OX  DARK  AFRICA. 

pitched  upon  the  western  slope  of  Murchison  Bay,  I  perceived 
Mons.  Lourdel  descending  the  steep,  with  a  few  companions.  I 
Hona.  had  presented  one  half  of  the  donkej's  I  had  taken  from 
Lourdel,     ^j^g  Massais  to  the  Roman  Catholic,  the  other  half  to 

the  rrencn 

missionary,  the  English  missionaries.  Mons.  Lourdel  informed  me, 
he  had  heard  at  Mengo  that  the  Djumba  had  had  us  taken 
to  Bulingogwe,  but  had  then  recalled  the  boats.  It  at  once 
struck  him  that  this  was  a  trick  of  the  Katikiro's,  in  whose 
power  we  were  completely ;  so  as  soon  as  the  boatmen  received 
orders  to  return  to  Sesse  with  their  vessels,  accordingly  he 
had  ridden  over  on  one  of  the  donkeys  I  had  given  him, 
and  was  going  to  spend  the  night  with  me.  I  oifered 
.    ,     Mons.  Lourdel  my  best  thanks,  and  at  once  ordered  a 

Particulars  •' 

of  Stanley  festive  supper.  During  the  meal  Mons.  Lourdel 
acquainted  me  with  some  interesting  facts  respecting 
Stanley's  carrying  off  of  Emin  Pasha.  I  had  already  remarked, 
that  in  the  first  letter  I  received  from  the  French  in  Usoga  the 
news  of  the  revolt  of  Emin's  troops  had  been  communicated 
in  somewhat  sceptical  terms.  "  If  credit  may  be  given  to 
certain  rumours,  Emin's  troops  are  said  to  have  mutinied." 
Now  for  the  first  time  Mons.  Lourdel  distinctly  told  me,  "  II  n'a 
pas  voulu ;  Stanley  I'a  pris  comme  un  voleur  ;  "  ("He  did  not 
wish  to  go  ;  Stanley  captured  him  like  a  thief")  ;  "  and,  as  our 
people  at  Ankore  have  noticed,  he  treated  Emin  very  badly.'' 

As  these  communications  made  to  me  by  Mons.  Lourdel 
only  represented  what  he  had  heard  from  others,  I  could  not 
Incredulity -"^^^^  up  my  mind  to  attach  much  importance  to  his 
of  Dr.        words,  as  I  could  not  imagine  that  Emin  Pasha  would 

Peters  . 

allow  himself  to  be  removed  by  Stanlej^,  against  his 
will,  from  a  province  in  which  he  was  governor.  Not  until 
I  reached  Mpuapua  did  I  discover  that  the  tidings  I  had  already 
received  in  Bulingogwe,  and  still  further  in  Ukumbi,  did  not 
even  convey  the  whole  truth. 

By  his  coup  of  April  5th,  1889,  Stanley  not  only  obliged 
Emin  Pasha  to  come  away  with  him,  but  induced  him,  by 
holding  out  various  promises,  to  submit  to  his  dictation. 
He  told  Emin  he  would  conduct  him  round  Lake  Victoria  to 


ARRIVAL   OF  MUANGA'S  ADMIRAL.  441 

Kawirondo,  and  then  from  Mombas  furnish  him  with  the  means 
not  only  of  recovering  his  former  position  in  the  Equatorial 
Province,  but  also  of  reconquering  Uganda  and  Unjoro,  though 
certainly  it  would  be  under  the  sovereignty  of  the  British  East 
African  Company.  These  promises  he  did  not  keep,  later  on, 
at  Usukuma,  and  thus  he  compelled  Emin  Pasha,  against  his 
will,  to  march  with  him  to  the  coast.  This  behaviour  of 
Stanleys  is  the  more  inexplicable  as  it  was  adverse  to  the 
interests  of  those  by  whom  he  was  commissioned,  the  sirwuiiam 
British  East  African  Company.  The  plan,  in  his  bold  ao^^g^o'id 
way  suggested  by  Sir  William  Mackinnon,  of  ac-  v^^^- 
quiring  for  England  the  countries  of  the  Upper  Nile,  must 
indeed  be  called  grand.  That  it  failed  entirely  is,  in  the  first 
instance,  the  fault  of  Stanley  and  no  less  of  Jackson,  both  of 
whom,  on  arriving  at  the  place,  were  wanting  in  the  necessary 
determination  to  put  it  into  execution  at  the  right  moment. 
This  matter  formed  the  subject  of  conversation  between  Mons. 
Lourdel  and  myself  during  our  supper,  and  Lourdel  once  more 
expressed  his  conviction  that,  in  consequence  of  Jackson's 
indecision,  England  had  certainly  lost  the  opportunity  of 
taking  peaceable  possession  of  Uganda. 

Our  conversation  was  suddenly  interrupted  by  the  landing 
of  people  from  boats  just  below  my  tent,  and  the  arrival  of 
a  large  procession.  Muanga's  Djumba  (Admiral)  appeared, 
bringing  with  him  presents  of  honour  for  me  ;  he  was  accom- 
panied by  Nugula,  whom  he  introduced  as  the  Kabaka  Arrival  of 
(king's  representative)  in  the  Uganda  expedition,  of^"^"^^- 
which  I  was  to  take  the  command  for  the  clearing  of  the  west 
shore  of  the  lake.  Nugula  prostrated  himself  before  me,  and 
swore  to  obey  me  in  all  things.  The  flotilla,  destined  to  carry 
the  men  employed  in  the  collection  of  tribute  money  to 
Busiba,  the  projecting  land  of  Karague,  to  the  south  of  the 
Kagera,  was  assembled  at  Sesse,  which  I  could  reach  from 
Bulingogwe  in  three  days. 

"  There  you  will  find  nearly  a  hundred  boats.  To-morrow 
morning  the  thirty-three  boats  especially  destined  for  the  trans- 
port of  your  column  shall  be  in  the  bay,  to  take  us  first  to  Mfoh." 


442  NEW  LIGHT  OX  DARK  AFRICA. 

"  And  where  shall  I  find  the  sick  people  I  sent  to  Sesse  a  few 

daj's  since  ?  " 

"  These,  too,  will  be  here  at  Bulingogwe  to-morrow.  They 
lost  their  way  the  day  before  yesterday,  and  marched  to  Ntebe. 
Nuguia's  When  I  learnt  that  you  yourself  had  started  for  Sesse 
report.  to-day  I  immediately  sent  boats  to  bring  these  back, 
and  to-morrow  they  will  be  here  again." 

Here  was  a  fresh  proof  of  the  way  in  which  the  Waganda 
keep  their  promises.  I  now  dismissed  Djumba  and  Nugula, 
once  more  giving  them  orders  to  have  the  boats  in  readiness  at 
sunrise.  Mons.  Lourdel  then  retired  to  one  of  the  huts  by  the 
shore,  below  my  tent,  where  he  passed  anything  but  a  comfort- 
able night  in  a  lounging  chair,  as  these  huts  swarm  with  vermin. 
The  following  morning  I  was  roused  by  a  deluge  of  rain.  It  did 
not  cease  until  6.30,  at  which  hour  Mons.  Lourdel  appeared  to 
breakfast.  I  take  this  opportunity  to  mention,  that  throughout 
Dietary  on  the  expedition  I  adhered  to  the  principle  of  three  meat 
the  march,  jj^g^ls  a  day.  In  the  mornings,  previous  to  the  starting 
of  our  column,  a  cup  of  hot  coffee,  or  cocoa,  and  milk  was  taken, 
at  which  meal  cold  meat  and,  as  a  rule,  some  porridge  and 
honey  were  at  our  disposal.  On  the  march  I  caused  a  halt  to 
be  made  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour  between  ten  and  eleven,  when 
we  partook  of  cold  meat  and  mustard  and  cold  porridge.  On 
our  arrival  in  camp  a  good  soup  was  immediately  prepared,  and 
some  meat  was  roasted,  and  this  proceeding  was  repeated  at  six 
in  the  evening.  Coffee,  for  which,  having  cattle  with  us,  we 
were  generally  provided  with  milk,  always  formed  the  conclusion 
of  each  meal,  and,  as  a  finish,  we  smoked  the  tobacco  of  the 
African  country  from  a  native  pipe.  The  tobacco  differs  con- 
tobacco,  siderably  in  the  various  provinces,  but  sometimes,  as 
among  the  Gallas,  on  the  Tana,  and  in  Kawirondo,  for  instance, 
it  is  an  aromatic  and  fragrant  luxury.  At  any  rate,  we  vastly 
preferred  it  to  some  tobacco  we  found  in  Ukumbi,  which  had 
come  from  Europe .  Occasionally  an  agreeable  addition  was  made 
to  our  table  by  a  good  fish  from  the  lake.  Besides  this,  I  had 
the  good  fortune  to  secure  some  large  parcels  of  smoked  grass- 
hoppers, neatly  packed  in  matting,  which  constituted  an  excellent 


MONS.  LOURDEL  A   HELPER  IN  NEED.  443 

hors  iVceuvre.  Fried  in  fat,  they  taste  A'ery  much  like  pork 
sausages(?)  ;  and  having  had  the  luck  to  avert  a  threatened  salt 
famine  by  the  purchase  of  ten  pounds  of  Unjoro  salt  in  Uganda, 
we  could  indulge  in  a  little  salt  with  them  without  any  twinges 
of  conscience.  As  at  the  lake  we  could  always  get  bananas  and 
other  fruits,  and  often,  too,  refreshing  buttermilk,  our  scale  of 
provisioning  during  the  next  few  weeks  was  an  exceedingly 
satisfactory  one  for  Africa,  and,  in  consequence,  we  enjoyed 
good  health. 

Mons.  Lourdel  and  I  waited  till  half-past  seven  for  the  boats 
to  come  across  ;  but  the  Sesse  people,  of  whom  the  boats'  crews 
entirely    consisted,    gave    no    signs   of    moving.     As 

'     o  o  o  Dilatori. 

Djumba  and  Nugula  had  been  taken  back  to  the  other  nessofthe 
side,  we  found  ourselves  in  the  very  position  which,  on  "*  ™*"' 
the  previous  day,  Mons.  Lourdel  had  feared  would  be  mine.  We 
went  down  to  the  shore,  and  signalled  across  to  the  Sesse  people. 
No  answer  ;  not  a  sign  that  we  had  been  understood,  or  that 
any  one  was  willing  to  attend  to  our  summons.  I  now  proposed 
to  Mons.  Lourdel  that  he  should  go  with  me  to  the  island, 
and  try  if  we  could  not  ferret  out  some  small  fishing  boat,  in 
which  we  could  row  across  to  the  flotilla.  In  the  bay,  between 
the  mainland  and  the  island,  a  few  of  these  boats  were  gliding 
about,  with  one  or  two  men  in  each.  In  vain  did  Mons.  Lourdel 
make  signs  to  them  to  approach.  At  last,  on  his  telling  them 
that  he  commanded  them  in  the  name  of  the  king,  one  of  them 
came  as  far  as  the  reeds  on  the  margin  of  the  island,  but  he 
refused  to  come  close  up  to  us.  Then  Mons.  Lourdel  lost 
patience.  With  one  bound  he  was  in  the  lake,  and,  j^^„j,4gi,g 
before  the  fisherman  had  time  to  row  off,  he  had  seized  energetic 

1-1  •  in  c  -I  ■     f  measure. 

the  boat,  and,  with  a  vigorous  blow  or  his  fist,  sent  one 
of  them  overboard.  He  jumped  into  the  boat,  and,  wet  through 
as  he  was,  he  by  himself  pulled  across  towards  the  flotilla,  calling 
out  to  me  to  remain  where  I  was,  and  that  he  would  bring  the 
boats.  So  soon  as  the  Sesse  people  perceived  that  we  had  got 
in  possession  of  a  boat,  they  immediately  unmoored  the  whole 
flotilla,  and  began  racing  across  to  us,  each  striving  to  out-row  the 
rest.     They  had  evidently  not  intended,  with  malice  prepense, 


444  NEW  LIGHT  OX  DARK  AFRICA. 

to  leave  us  in  the  hole,  but  beinij  under  no  control,  had  given 
themselves  up  to  a  comfortable  "  dolce  far  niente."  At  the 
:'i:  .  lake  I  was  soon  convinced  that  my  way  of  [conducting 
with  idle  the  expedition,  by  starting  before  sunrise,  was  utterly 
peop  e.  impracticable  with  these  people.  Every  morning  I 
had  to  begin  the  struggle  afresh  against  the  laziness  of  the 
boatmen. 

The  Sesse  Islands  are  the  great  naval  station  and  the  sailors' 


s 


recruiting  ground  of  the  King  of  Uganda.  Hundreds  of  boat: 
are  to  be  found  here,  which,  at  a  moment  s  notice  from  the  king, 
must  be  placed  at  his  disposal.  With  this  fleet  the  Waganda 
have  conquered  for  themselves  the  supremacy  over  the  whole  of 
Lake  Victoria.  Any  boats  belonging  to  other  tribes  that  make 
their  appearance  upon  the  lake,  and  do  not  at  once  submit  to  the 
Kabaka,  are,  without  more  ado,  seized  and  destroyed.  In  this 
wise  all  the  regions  north  and  west  of  the  lake  have  been  laid 
under  tribute  by  him. 

About  ten  o'clock  Mons.  Lourdel,  still  wet  through,  returned 
to  Bulingogwe.  I  immediately  furnished  him  with  a  change  ot 
Fatal  con-  clothiug,  but  I  fear  that  morning  laid  the  seeds  of  the 
toMonr^  fever  to  which,  to  my  deep  sorrow,  he  soon  afterwards 
Lourdel.  fell  a  victim.  I  had  learnt  to  esteem  very  highly  the 
calm  and  energetic  man  M'ho  so  thoroughly  championed  the 
interests  of  his  Church  in  Uganda.  He  was  then  thirty-nine 
years  of  age,  had  laboured  in  Uganda  since  1879,  and  had  taken 
his  share  in  all  the  vicissitudes  this  country  had  undergone.  He 
had,  moreover,  no  desire  ever  to  quit  Uganda. 

I  now  took  leave  of  him.  My  invalid  column  had  actually 
been  brought  over  from  Kasi  to  the  other  side.  My  baggage 
and  people  were  soon  embarked  on  the  boats,  and  I  took  my  seat 
in  the  largest  of  them.  In  the  front  part  of  the  boat  is  an  open 
space,  where  the  arm-chair  was  placed  on  which  I  sat.  I  pro- 
tected myself  against  the  spray  that  dashed  over  the  bows  with 
an  antelope  skin,  which  Mons.  Lourdel  presented  to  me  in  the 
moment  of  our  parting. 

"  Au  revoir,  Mons.  Lourdel ;  au  revoir,  either  in  Europe  or 
in  Uganda,"  I  called  out  from  the  boat  for  the  last  time. 


T%_ 


t    cI 


THE   VICTORIA   XYAXZA    LAKE.  445 

"  Au    revoir  in  Uganda,  if  it  be  God's  will,"  he   replied, 
waving  his  handker  chief  vigorously  in  salute. 

I  returned  his  farewell  salutation,  and   the  boats  Parting 
went  hissing  through  the  blue  waters  towards  the  south,  goodmit- 
It  was  indeed  a  glorious  sight,  such  as  is  seldom  met  ^"""y- 
with.     The  morning  was  cool  after  the  downpour  of  the  night, 
and  the  power  of  the  sun  was  mitigated  by  the  fleecy  clouds  that 
floated  across  it.     To  the  right  and  left  the  sharp  outlines  of  the 
coast  of  Uganda,  studded  with  forests  or  plantations,  stood  forth 
along  the  wide-stretching  Murchison  Bay.     Before  us,  in  the 
far  distance,  was  dimly  visible  a  group  of  islands,  of  which  as 
yet  only  the  peaks  of  the  mountains  showed  themselves 

.  View  on 

above  the  horizon.  And  the  fantastic  boats  careered  on-  the  Lake 
wards,  like  horses  of  the  sea  striving  with  each  other  in  ^"*°^^^- 
a  race.  A  light  southerly  breeze  refreshed  the  senses  and  nerves. 
To-day  it  was  scarcely  able  to  curl  the  surface  of  the  water,  nor 
did  we  as  yet  experience  anything  of  the  ocean-like  motion  of 
the  waves  which  often,  even  without  any  great  amount  of  wind, 
suddenly  agitates  the  surface  of  Lake  Victoria. 

Mobile  as  the  expression  of  an  intellectual  face,  is  the  aspect 
of  the  Victoria  Nyanza.  To-day  it  raises  its  blue  eyes  thought- 
fully towards  the  lofty  firmament,  glowing  with  the  sweet  fresh- 
ness of  youth,  awakening  the  heart  to  cheerful  thoughts. 
Sparkling  in  the  brilliant  sunlight,  it  stretches  before  us  into 
seemingly  endless  distance.  On  the  horizon  gleams  a  verdant 
isle,  or  perhaps  the  mountain  summit  of  an  island,  like  some 
beautiful  Fata  Morgana.  Here  we  have  before  us  the  actual 
realization  of  the  Islands  of  the  Blest.  White  swans  and  ducks 
skim  along  the  deep  blue  water.  Eagles  circle  above  it,  intent 
on  the  capture  of  fish,  which  spring  in  shoals  out  of  the  ^^^  .^ 
waves,  and  here  and  there  some  large  grey-bellied  por-  lake 

7  ID     (D     */  ^  Victoria. 

poise  tumbles  about,  rollicking  in  the  tepid  flood.  Thus 
in  its  holiday  garb  the  Victoria  Lake  stretches  before  us,  and 
only  from  time  to  time,  like  an  apparition  from  dreamland,  the 
shadow  of  a  fantastic  cloud  glides  across  its  mirror.  By  noon 
the  eastern  shore  recedes  more  and  more ;  we  keep  along  the 
western  side,  passing  sharply-defined  groups  of  trees  and  pretty 


446  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

half-concealed  villages.  The  boats  of  the  flotilla  are,  by  this 
time,  widelj'  scattered.  My  large  vessel,  propelled  by  twenty- 
six  oarsmen,  and  bearing  the  large  black,  white,  and  red  flag, 
shoots  forward  in  advance,  marshalling  the  rest  on  their  way. 

At  three  o'clock  we  reach  a  flat  island,  exactly  facing 
Murchison  Bay  on  the  south.  Here  we  make  a  halt,  to  give 
Noonday  the  men  a  short  rest  and  collect  the  scattered  flotilla. 
''*"■  But  I  cannot  stay  here  long.  Already,  in  a  quarter 
of  an  hour,  I  give  the  order  to  resume  our  voyage  towards  the 
island  Mfoh,  situated  opposite  Cape  Ntebe,  where  we  are  to 
spend  the  night.  We  now  turn  to  the  west,  leaving  Uganda's 
characteristic  coast  behind  us  to  the  north.  Forward  we  go  at 
accelerated  speed,  and  the  foam  hisses  merrily  on  the  bow  of  the 
boat.  From  time  to  time  we  take  a  wave  on  board,  the  spray 
rolling  from  my  antelope  skin.  The  lake,  but  this  morning 
smooth  as  a  mirror  and  almost  languishing,  seeming  to  draw 
the  vault  of  heaven  towards  it,  is  now  lightly  stirred  by  the 
gentle  evening  breeze.  Just  as  when  a  slight  frown  passes  over 
a  thoughtful  brow,  its  surface  now  assumes  a  totally  different 
aspect.  Soon  mysterious  forms  arise  above  the  horizon,  far  in 
the  south-west.  At  first  the  spectator  cannot  tell  whether  these 
are  boats  of  strange  shape,  or  whati  they  are.  Marco, 
the  sesse  who  is  seated  behind  me,  tells  me  they  are  the 
western  outlines  of  the  Sesse  Islands.  The  sun  sinks 
lower  and  lower ;  the  lake  in  the  west  is  like  a  glowing  mass 
of  fire.  My  boat  rushes  swiftly  through  the  waters.  I  look 
around  me,  and  find  that  we  are  alone.  Those  distant  specks 
upon  the  horizon  are  the  nearest  of  the  boats  following  me. 

Our  course  is  directed  straight  to  the  land  that  rises  up,  ever 
more  sharply  defined,  before  us.  I  am  told,  on  enquiring,  that 
these  are  the  outlines  of  the  Island  of  Mfoh.  Uganda's  coast 
winds  along  in  a  series  of  bays.  Now  it  makes  a  sharp  turn 
northM'ards,  jutting  forward  into  the  lake,  like  an  isthmus, 
towards  the  islands  for  which  we  are  steering.  "That  is 
Ntebe,"  explains  Marco. 

The  sun  has  sunk  into  the  west ;  the  evening  glow  in  the 
sky  has  flamed  up  and  died  away,  and  now  Lake  Victoria  lies 


THE  ISLAND   OF  MFOH.  447 

bathed  in  the  pale  light  of  the  full  moon.  The  islands  to  the 
south-west  are  no  longer  visible.  Straight  in  front  of  us,  dark 
and  rocky,  rises  steeply  from  the  waters  this  volcanic  island, 
covered  with  gnarled  and  often  strangely-shaped  trees.  We 
involuntarily  wonder  how  a  landing-place  is  to  be  found  here. 
On  nearer  approach  I  become  aware  of  a  canal  pene- 

The  canal 

trating  into  the  land,  which  we  now  enter,  and  that 
we  have  to  effect  a  landing  on  the  Island  of  Mfoh.  Whilst 
the  coast  on  the  east  is  very  steep,  to  the  south  and  west  it 
is  flat  along  the  water's  edge.  Here  the  shore  forms  a  wide 
bay,  and  now,  at  seven  in  the  evening,  our  boat  voyage  for  the 
day  is  to  terminate.  Soon  the  boat  grates  upon  the  flat  sandy 
shore,  and  the  Sesse  people  jump  into  the  water,  to  pull  it  a 
long  way  further  in.  Then  I  am  borne  to  the  shore  upon  the 
shoulders  of  two  sturdy  fellows.  We  have  reached  Mfoh,  after 
a  passage  of  eight  or  nine  hours,  but  we  have  still  to  wait 
for  the  other  boats  before  we  can  pitch  our  tents  and  prepare 
supper. 

Half-an-hour  elapsed  before  the  first  boat  came  up,  and  at 
midnight,  when  I  held  a  final  muster,  some  of  them  were  still 
missing.      Fortunately  the  tents  and  accessories  were  Arrival  at 
in  some  of  the  foremost  ones,  so  that  by  eight  o'clock  ^^''^■ 
my  tent  was  pitched  close  by  the  edge  of  the  lake.     I  had  to 
wait  for  my  supper  until  nearly  ten  o'clock,  but  the  moon  shone 
bright,  and  the  contours  of  the  islands  rose  like  phantoms  out 
of  the  water.     My  people  were  lodged  in  houses  in  different 
parts  of  the  island,  and  late  into  the  night  I  was  busy  posting 
sentries,  that   the  boats  might  be  watched  with  suf-  jj^^ggji^y 
ficient   care.     In   those   days   I   still  feared  intrigues  for  vigi- 
from    Uganda.      Should    the   flotilla    disappear   some  *'"'*• 
night,  we   should    probably  all   have  been  doomed  to  perish, 
imprisoned  on  one  of  the  islands  of  Lake  Victoria.     It  was  late 
when  I  lay  down  to  rest ;  but  I  was  destined  not  to  get  much 
sleep  that  night. 

A  storm  came  up  that  night,  the  like  of  which  for  grandeur 
I  can  hardly  remember.  Flash  followed  flash,  and  that  I  was  in 
the  very  midst  of  the  electric  disturbance  I  knew  by  lightning 


448  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

and  thunder  being  simultaneous.  The  rain  came  hissing  down 
Great  thun- on  the  tent  and  into  the  lake.  It  was  as  if  the  flood- 
derstorm.  gg^^^gg  Qf  heaveu  had  opened  for  another  deluge,  and  the 
earth  was  about  to  be  swallowed  up  by  the  raging  elements. 
The  storm  howled  and  whistled.  As  my  tent,  with  its  iron- 
tipped  poles,  was  the  highest  point  in  the  landscape,  my  position 
was  one  of  imminent  danger.  Yet  I  had  no  wish  to  rise.  At 
last  it  seemed  as  if  Providence  intervened  to  rescue  me.  The 
storm  and  wind  that  stirred  up  the  waves  of  Lake  Victoria, 
and  dashed  them  almost  to  the  very  door  of  my  tent,  caused 
the  tent  to  rock  to  and  fro,  so  that  every  moment  I  dreaded 
it  would  collapse.  I  may  have  lain  thus  for  about  half- an - 
hour,  when  my  fears  were  suddenly  realised.  The  ropes  that 
held  down  the  roof  on  one  side  gave  way,  and  I  lay  buried 

beneath  the  weight  of  the  tent.  At  the  same  instant 
struck  by  the  flagstaff  in  front  of  it  was  struck  by  lightning,  and 
ig  nmg.  J  ^^^^  ^^^  shock  in  every  nerve.  The  next  morning 
I  discovered  the  flagstaff  lying  in  pieces  upon  the  ground,  with 
its  lance  point  bent  and  half  melted  away.  For  me  there  was 
but  one  thing  to  do.  With  nothing  on  but  my  shirt,  I  ran  at  a 
venture  towards  the  huts,  where  I  knew  the  Somalis  were  housed. 
I  found  them  seated  round  a  fire,  and  at  once  casting  off  my  wet 
garment,  I  wrapped  myself  in  a  woollen  blanket.  Then  Jama 
Ismael  folded  me  in  his  arms,  so  that  I  was  soon  quite  warm, 
and  thus  escaped  the  dangerous  consequence  of  my  involuntary 
shower-bath. 

The  dawn  had  come  by  this  time,  and  I  succeeded  in  finding 
my  servant,  and  procuring  a  dry  change  of  clothes  out  of  my 
trunks.  Having  shaved  and  dressed,  I  refreshed  myself  with  a 
hearty  breakfast  after  the  sufferings  of  the  night.  The  storm 
The  lake  ^^^  ^^^^'  ^^*  *^®  waves  of  the  Victoria  Nyanza  rolled 
after  the     aloug  hollow,  with  white  crests,  so  that  my  Sesse  people 

declared  we  could  not  proceed  further  that  day.  Mean- 
while Stephano  had  arrived  at  Ntebe,  sent  by  the  Katikiro  to 
convey  letters  to  the  English  station  at  Usumbiro,  and  at  the 
same  time  to  carry  out  official  measures  for  my  expedition.  He 
handed  me  a  hypocritical  letter  from  the  Katikiro,  which  ran 


REPLY  TO   THE  KATIKIRO ;-LAKE  VICTORIA.  449 

thus :    "  1  send  thee  greeting,  again  greeting,  and  once  again 
greeting,  my  friend  !    Wherefore  didst  thou  depart,  my  friend  ? 
Wherefore  didst  thou  leave  us,  thy  friends,  to  yearn  for 
thee   in  Uganda?     What  wilt   thou   reply   when  thy  tiro's "■ '" 
brothers  on  the  coast  ask  thee,  hast  thou  driven  a^yay  ^^"''^' 
the  Arabs  from  Uujoro,  and  wherefore  didst  thou  depart  from 
Uganda  before  this  was  done  P     Greeting,  again  greeting,  once 
again  greeting !  " 

Two  days  later  I  replied  to  Katikiro  from  Sesse  :  "  Greet- 
ing, again  greeting,  once  again  greeting  !  I  have  received  your 
letter,  and  read  it  without  pleasure.  I  was  glad  to 
leave  Uganda  because  your  quarrels  Avith  Muanga  reply ^to*the 
displeased  me.  You  ask  me  what  I  shall  say  to  my  ^*''''^"^''' 
brothers  if  they  ask  me  why  I  departed  from  Uganda  ?  I  shall 
tell  my  brothers  that  you  are  a  liar,  and  that  you  and  your 
friends  are  the  ruin  of  Uganda.  T  will  gladly  return  to  Uganda, 
and  indeed  with  soldiers  and  cannon,  to  help  Muanga  to  gain 
the  mastery  over  his  bad  subjects,  at  whose  head  you  are. 
Greeting,  again  greeting,  once  again  greeting  !  " 

Although  the  lake  was  very  rough  all  the  morning,  I  gave 
the  order  at  eleven  o'clock  to  embark  for  the  island  of  Vuvoh, 
where  we  intended  to  encamp  that  day.  To-day  the 
waves  of  Lake  Victoria  had  the  same  motion  as  those  under  a 
of  the  Baltic  ;  just  then  one  could  not  recognise  it,  "^^^^^p^"  • 
remembering  the  day  before.  Only  by  dint  of  great  exertion 
could  my  men  make  headway  against  the  south  wind.  The  boat 
was  dashed  from  side  to  side,  so  that  every  now  and  then  I 
expected  it  would  capsize.  The  waves  broke  over  the  bulwarks 
continuousl}-,  and  we  were  soon  all  wet  to  the  skin. 

The  Sesse  people  are  accustomed  to  accompany  the  labour 
of  rowing,  almost  uninterruptedl}',  with  rhythmic  songs.     The 
leading  singer  stands  upon  one  of  the  stern  seats.     He         ^^ 
sings  somewhat  as  follows,  "  Hei,  hei,  heia  !     Hei,  hei,  the  sesse 
hei,  hei,  hei,  heia  !  "     Or  different  subjects  form  the  ^^"^  ^' 
burden  of  his  ditty.     He  narrates,  always  in  rhythm,  long  tales 
of  robbers  connected  with  the  lake,  and  love  stories,  to  which 
the  chorus  regularly  sings  a   refrain.     Or  again,  one  of  the 

29 


450  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

^Yaganda  stands  up  and  sings  the  praises  of  Muanga  and  his 
friend  the  Msungu,  called  Kupanda.  This  song  my  people 
caught  up,  and  made  a  practice  of  entertaining  us  with  it  every 
morning  between  the  lake  and  the  coast. 

"  Eh  !  Buana  mkubua  etu  Kupanda  scharo  ?  " 

Chorus :  "  Scharo  ?  " 

Solo :  "  la  scharo  !  " 

Chorus:  "Scharo?" 

Solo  :  "  la  scharo." 

Chorus :  "  Scharo  ?  " 

Solo :  "  Eh  !  Buana  mkubua  etu  Kupanda  scharo  ! 

("  Eh  ! "  (drawn  out)  "  Is  not  our  leader  the  stormer  of  cities  .P  " 

Chorus:  "Cities?" 

Solo  :  "  Yes,  cities  !  "  etc. 

"  Yes,  our  leader  is  the  stormer  of  cities  !  ") 

To-day  they  endeavoured,  by  singing  with  half-hushed 
voices,  to  appease  the  storm ;  but  in  this  they  were  not  success- 
ful. It  was  not  till  towards  four  in  the  afternoon  that  my  boat 
reached  the  island.  This  time  I  had  taken  the  precaution  of 
bringing  with  me  my  tent,  its  accessories,  and  my  luggage,  so 
that  I  was  so  far  independent  of  the  boats  behind  me,  and  could 
at  once  pitch  my  tent  in  a  plantation  of  plantain  trees,  on  the 
southern  shore  of  the  island.  The  sun  of  the  previous  day,  and 
the  wind  of  the  present  one,  had  burnt  my  face  dark- 
audwind-  red,  and  covered  the  skin  with  blisters.  I  became 
more  prudent  in  future,  and  used  completely  to  cover 
my  face  with  linen  during  the  hot  hours  in  the  middle  of  the 
day,  so  that,  seated  in  the  bow  of  the  boat,  I  had  the  appear- 
ance of  the  "  Veiled  Picture  of  Sais."  The  voyage  lost  much  of 
its  charm  in  consequence,  but  by  this  measure  I  escaped  the 
risk  of  sunstroke. 

My  little  flotilla  had  been  scattered  by  the  storm,  and  even 

on  the  morning  of  March  29th  the  boats  were  not  all  together. 

Nevertheless,  I  resolved  to  pursue  my  passage  to  Sesse, 

afresh  for   It  was  uecessary,  in  any  case,  to  encamp  there  for  a 

day,  or  for  several  days,  to  collect  the  whole  fleet.     I 

longed   for   the   comfortable    station    and   for    the   society   of 


ON  LAKE   VICTORIA.  451 

Europeans.  For  that  reason  I  left  a  few  of  the  Waganda  behind 
to  look  out  for  the  missing  boats,  and  started  about  ten  o'clock, 
always  steering  parallel  with  the  Island  of  Sesse,  which  lay 
before  us.  Once  more  Lake  Victoria  lay  spread  out  smooth  as 
a  mirror,  raising  its  dark  blue  eyes  to  heaven.  The  sun  lit  up 
with  lovely  splendour  the  richly -wooded  shores  of  Sesse,  sailing  by 
along  whose  windings  we  darted  like  an  arrow.  In  Jf  th™"^*'' 
front  of  us,  to  the  north-west,  the  mouth  of  the  Ka tonga,  ^^^'"^sa. 
where  the  land  turns  sharply  to  the  south,  was  clearly  and 
distinctly  visible.     Whilst  the  north  of  Lake  Victoria 

pi'iTiiii  ■  •  Buddtiland. 

consists  or  high  table  lands,  the  western  coast  is  entirely 

flat.     "What  land  is   that?"  I   enquired.     "Buddu,"  replied 

Marco. 

The  experience  of  the  previous  day  had  taught  me  the  wisdom 
■of  taking  on  board  an  ample  stock  of  provisions.  So  I  had  well 
provided  myself  with  meat  and  bananas,  and  this  greatly  con- 
tributed to  make  the  voyage  an  enjoyable  one.  There  was  also 
much  to  be  seen  that  awakened  interest.  The  creeks  of  Sesse 
swarmed  with  aquatic  birds  of  all  kinds  ;  and  even  if  „     ^.^ , 

^  .  .  '  .  Beautiful 

this  had  not  been  the  case,  it  was  an  intense  enioyment  landscape 

of  Sesse 

in  itself  to  feel  in  heart  and  mind  the  influence  of  all 
this  gorgeous  tropical  splendour.     The  soul  drank  in,  so  to  speak, 
the  wondrous  beauty  of  the  landscape,  and,  full  of  idealised 
■enjoyment,  the  mind  gave  itself  up  to  poetic  delight.     Thus 
we  continued  our  voyage  westward,  until  four  in  the  afternoon. 
At  that  time  we  reached  the  north-west  corner  of  Sesse,  and  now 
the  boats  turned  southward.     Soon  was  distinctly  visible  the 
promontory  where  Sesse  approaches  nearest  to  the  mainland  of 
Buddu.     Here  I  found,  as  I  had  been  led  to  expect,  the  The  French 
French    missionary   station.     The    rowers    pulled    in™"^'""'- 
regular  time,  and  the  boat  shot  swiftly  past  the  verdant  shores. 
The  figure  of  a  white  man,  accompanied  by  a  servant,  came  in 
sight   amongst  the   bushes.     "Buana  mdogo ! "    ("The  young 
master!"  literally,  "The   little   master!")  cried   my  Meeting 
servants.     It  was  indeed  Herr  von  Tiedemann.     His  yon  Tiede- 
companion,  as  well  as  himself,  had  recognised  us  and  '"*''''• 
our  black,  white,  and  red  flag,  and  as  a  sign  of  rejoicing  Herr 


452  NEW  LIGHT  OX  DARK  AFRICA. 

von  Tiedemanu  fired  off  his  gun.  I  returned  his  salute.  Soon 
the  boat  grated  upon  the  strand,  and  with  a  warm  shake  of  the 
hand,  Herr  von  Tiedemann  and  I  greeted  each  other  once  more,, 
after  a  separation  of  several  weeks.  He  was  much  rejoiced  to 
hear  that  the  whole  party  was  on  its  wa)-  hither. 

The  news  of  the  disturbances  in  Uganda  had  penetrated  as- 
far  as  Sesse,  and  Monseigneur  Livinhac  had  thought  I  should 

not  get  away  from  thence  within  any  calculable  time, 
neur         All  the  more  joyous  were  the  feelings  of  my  travelling 

companion,  when  he  heard  that,  without  any  long  stay 
at  Sesse,  we  should  push  on  southwards.  We  strode  along  the 
narrow  pathway  leading  from  the  landing  stage,  and  proceeded 
up  the  hill  to  where  the  French  station  stood.  To  the  right, 
when  the  summit  was  reached,  stood  a  long  dwelling-house,  in 
front  of  us  the  chapel,  and  all  around  the  clean  and  well-kept 
houses  of  the  parishioners,  the  whole  surrounded  by  cultivated 
gardens,  and  framed  in  by  a  distant  background  of  dark  woods. 
Monseigneur  Livinhac  received  me  with  the  heartiest  of  greet- 
ings, and  congratulated  me  upon  my  unexpectedly  rapid 
departure  from  Uganda,  which  he  declared  to  be  unique  in 
Arrange-  the  history  of  travel  in  Uganda.  I  was  taken  to  the 
^e"Fre°ucii  i"efectory,  and  at  once  regaled  with  a  glass  of  wine 
station,  and  with  coffee.  To  my  regret,  I  learnt  that  one  of 
the  fathers,  named  Schankmerl,  was  lying  in  a  hopeless  state 
with  congestion  of  the  liver.  There  was  something  truly 
sublime,  to  my  thinking,  in  the  calmness  with  which  this  state 
of  things  was  accepted  by  the  companions  of  the  desperately 
sick  man.  "  AYe  are  here  to  die,"  was  their  simple,  modest 
reply.  Here  was  no  useless  lamentation,  no  sentimental  reflec- 
tion ;  nothing  but  manly  resignation  to  the  decrees  of  Providence, 
The  well-prepared  supper,  served  in  European  fashion  in  the- 
refectory,  which  was  illumined  by  wax  lights,  had,  so  it  appeared 
Deli  its  of  ^°  ^^>  something  of  solemnity  in  it.  The  level  of 
civilised     our  Conditions  of  life  had  been  so  greatly  depressed,, 

that  to  sup  by  artificial  light  seemed  like  unheard- 
of  luxury. 

When  supper  was  over  a  scene  was  enacted,  which  sounds. 


CONVERSATION   WITH  JIONSEIGNEUR   LiriNHAC. 


453 


,so    romantic,  that    it  might  have  formed   a   part  of  a  drama. 
We  conversed  abont  the  affairs  of  Uganda,  Jackson's  , 

'-  .^  Mr.  Mackay 

order  for  my  arrest,  and  the  events  of  the  last  few  da3's,  and  his 

and  naturally  got  to  mention  Mr.  Mackay,  the  leader  of 

the  English  party  in  this  country.    I  spoke  of  the  great  influence 


MOXSBIGNEUK   LiVINHAC   BLBhSING   HIS   PUPILS. 

he  appeared  to  exercise  in  Uganda  ;  a  view  which  Monseigneur 
Livinhac  entirelv  confirmed.  I  had  previously  heard,  that  Mr. 
Mackay  had  expressed  the  hope  he  felt,  of  still  bemg  able  to  carry 
out  his  programme  of  making  Africa  an  English  possession,  from 
Table  Mountain  to  the  Atlas,  and  also  giving  it  as  his  opinion 


454  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

that  the  German  companies  working  there  had  no  real  support 
from  the  German  Government.  When  the  right  time  came  he 
would  let  loose  the  Arabs  upon  the  Germans,  and  then  we  should 
see  how  soon  the  whole  undertaking  there  would  collapse.  There- 
upon I  suggested  the  question,  whether  Germany  would  not  he 
quite  justified  in  issuing  a  decree  of  expulsion  against  such  a 
man,  as  these  plans  really  savoured  of  high  treason. 

"  I  should  be  quite  ready  to  conduct  Mr.  Mackay  to  the 
coast.  But,"  I  continued,  "  when  do  you,  Monseigneur,  think 
of  returning  to  Europe  ?  " 

"Jamais  !     I  shall  remain  here  until  my  death." 

"  That  is  a  pity.  I  should  be  exceedingly  rejoiced  to  have 
had  you  for  my  travelling  companion  thither." 

At  this  moment  a  man  entered  the  room  and  threw  himself 
The  bearer  ^pou  his  ktiees  at  the  feet  of  Monseigneur,  whose 
ofauim-    hand    he    kissed.     He   said  something   to  him  in  the 

portant  .  . 

comnmni-  Wasukuma  language,  which  I  did  not  understand.  I 
thought  I  noticed  Monseigneur  turn  somewhat  pale, 
and  I  looked  at  him  expectantly. 

"  Mr.  Mackay  is  dead,"  he  said  abruptly,  "  and  I  am 
recalled  to  Europe." 

Naturally  concluding  that  Monseigneur  Livinhac  might  wish 
to  be  alone  after  receiving  such  important  tidings,  we  at  once 
took  leave  of  him,  and  I  remarked  to  Herr  von  Tiedemann  that 
had  the  foregoing  scene  we  had  just  witnessed  been  represented 
on  the  stage,  the  author  of  the  piece  would  certainly  have  been 
accused  of  dealing  in  the  improbable. 

The  next  morning  rose  bright  and  clear,  like  its  predecessor. 
The  previous  day  I  had  sent  Nugula  to  the  smaller  Sesse  Islands 
to  collect  the  large  fleet  with  which  I  intended  to  make  the 
attack  upon  Busiba. 

I  spent  Sunday,  March  30th,  at  the  French  missionary 
sunda  at  ^^^^i^^'  ^0  collect  my  own  expeditionary  force  there, 
the  French  I  had  had  my  tent  pitched  under  a  huge  tree,  and  as 
Father  Schankmerl's  condition  was  worse  that  day  than 
before,  we  took  our  meals  in  the  tent — Monseigneur,  Herr  von 
Tiedemann,  and  I.     In  the  night  a  flotilla  of  Muanga's  had 


EXPLANATION   WITH  STEPEANO ;—THE  BOATS.  455 

come  up  from  Usukuma,  laden  with  powder  and  ammunition 
for  the  king,  and  with  stores  for  the  Roman  Catholic  Mission. 
I  asked  the  leader  of  this  expedition  to  exchange  some  of  his 
largest  boats  for  smaller  ones  from  my  flotilla,  which  he  agreed 
to  do,  after  consultation  with  Monseigneur  Livinhac.  I  sent 
for  Stephano,  and  in  Monseigneur's  presence  told  him  that 
from  this  time  Uganda's  intrigues  must  be  at  an  end,  and  that 
I  was  well  aware  that  he  belonged  to  the  English  part}'. 

"  From  henceforth  I  am  again  the  head  of  this  expedition, 
and  no  one  else,  and  every  one  belonging  to  it  must  obey  me. 
If  you    do   this   in    every   particular,   faithfully   and  ^^^^^^ 
willingly,  you  shall  receive  presents  from  me  at  Usu-  advice  to 
kuma  ;    but  if  I  once    notice    that  you  are  working 
against  me,  either  openly  or  secretly,  you  will  be  flogged  and 
put  in  chains,  and  that  is  what  you  have  to  look  to." 

If  these  words  addressed  to  the  official  representative  of  the 
king  were  somewhat  harsh,  they  produced  their  effect  very  com- 
pletely. Throughout  the  entire  remainder  of  the  expedition  I 
had  no  cause  to  be  displeased  with  Stephano. 

In  the  afternoon  the  last  of  the  boats  scattered  on  Friday 
made  their  appearance,  and  the  same  evening  I  learnt  that  the 
great  flotilla  had  also  assembled.  I  left  orders  at  Sesse  Arrival  ot 
that  Nugula  was  to  follow  me  immediately  with  the 
fleet  and  meet  me  at  Sango,  north  of  the  mouth  of  the  Kagera, 
from  whence  we  would  go  forward  on  the  following  day  to 
Busiba.  I  then  gave  orders  in  my  fleet  to  have  everything  in 
readiness  for  our  leaving  Sesse  on  the  Monday  morning,  as  pro- 
visions were  scarce  at  Sesse,  and  I  was,  moreover,  impatient  to 
get  nearer  to  the  scene  of  action.  So  we  started  southwards 
already  on  Monday  morning,  March  31st.  Before  leaving  we 
greeted  Monseigneur  Livinhac,  and  talked  with  him  on  the 
subject  of  our  travelling  together  from  Usukuma  to  the  coast. 

Monseigneur  intended  to  hurry  after  us  so  soon  as  he  had 
received  from  Europe  the  order  for   his   recall   fromMonseig- 
Africa.     This  document,  he  expected,  would  be  delivered  ^^^  i^ten- 
to  him  that  very  day,  as  the  boats  had  brought  him^'"''- 
the  news  that  four  French  missionaries  had  left  Usukuma  to 


456  ,V7?11'  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

strengthen  the  number  of  their  brethren  in  Uganda.  He  told 
us  we  should  probably  meet  them  on  Victoria  Lake  to-day  or 
to-morrow. 

The  morning  was  gloriously  fine.  Upon  the  strand  our 
people  and  the  Waganda,  who  had  come  from  the  south,  were 
Our  journey  bustling  about.  In  half  an  hour  the  boats  were  un- 
resumed.  moored  and  ready  for  departure.  I  entered  the  largest, 
which  carried  the  German  flag.  Another  good-bye  and  au 
revoir  to  Monseigneur,  and  away  we  went  merrily  upon  the 
lake. 

So  soon  as  we  had  got  through  the  canal  that  separates  Sesse 
from  the  mainland  quite  an  oceanic  swell  made  itself  felt.  The 
rocks  swarmed  with  sea  mews  and  other  birds.  The  swelling 
billows  dashed  unceasingly  against  the  cliffs.  All  our  boats 
showed  themselves  equal  to  the  occasion.  If  at  one  moment 
they  lay  in  the  hollow  of  the  waves,  the  next  they  appeared  upon 
Good  boats  *^^  Summit,  and  soon  we  lost  the  unpleasing  apprehen- 
and  good  siou  of  a  possible  capsizing.  The  men  pulled  steadily, 
singing  rhythmic  songs ;  and  although  their  progress 
Avas  retarded  both  by  the  south  monsoon  and  the  heavy,  adverse 
swell,  yet  we  got  on  rapidly  enough,  and  towards  the  afternoon 
had  lost  sight  of  most  of  the  other  boats.  Consequently  I  made 
my  men  row  somewhat  slower,  that  I  might  keep  at  any  rate 
a  part  of  my  boats  in  sight.  Between  two  and  three  in  the 
afternoon  we  sighted  a  sail — doubtless  the  expected  French 
missionaries.  I  gave  orders  to  stop,  and  sent  forward  some 
of  the  boats. 

It  was,  indeed,  the  boat  containing  the  French  missionaries. 
The  French  ^^^°  had  no  idea  of  our  approach.  My  people  caused 
missionary  them  to  lower  their  sail,  and  now  I  sped  towards  them 
in  my  large  boat. 

"Bonjour,  messieurs!  Dr.  Peters"  ("Good  morning,  gen- 
tlemen !     Dr.  Peters  "),  I  called  out  to  them. 

"  Comment,  Dr.  Peters  !  Vous  n'^tes  pas  mort  ?  Nous  avons 
lu  la  nouvelle  de  votre  mort."  ("Dr.  Peters!  Then  you  are 
not  dead  ?     We  have  read  the  news  of  your  death.") 

"  Non,  messieurs,  je  ne  suis  pas  mort  du  tout.     N'avez-vous 


A   MEETING,  AND  IMPORTANT  NEWS.  457 

pas  quelques  bouteilles  de  cognac  pour  nous  ?  "  ("  No,  gentlemen, 
I  am  not  dead  at  all.  HaAe  you  not  some  bottles  of  cognac  for 
us  P  ") 

" Malheureusement  pas."     ("Unfortunately  not.") 
We  were  now  alongside,  and  I  here  learnt,  according  to  the 
news  from  Europe,  we  had  been  reported  as  massacred  either  by 
the  Massais  or  the  Somalis. 

"  How  do  matters  stand  in  Europe  ?     Is  there  peace  there  or 
war  ?  "  I  continued. 

"  No  war." 

"  Has  anything  of  importance  in  Europe  taken  interchange 
place  .P"  •'*'^'^'- 

"  Nothing  that  we  know  of." 

"  How  are  things  looking  in  the  East  African  colony  P  " 

"  The  road  to  Bagamoyo  is  free,  so  far  as  the  Arabs  are  con- 
cerned, but   threatened   by   bands   of  robbers.      Om' Dangers  of 
last  letter-carrier  was  attacked  between  Usongo  and  letter-carry- 
Massali,  so  that  we  are  almost  entirely  without  news 
from  the  coast." 

"  What  is  the  state  of  Usukuma  P  " 

"  Food  is  to  be  had  there,  but  the  Arabs  from  Morgo 
threaten  the  Europeans." 

"  Have  you  any  news  of  the  Arabs  in  Karague,  to  whom  we 
are  now  going  ?  " 

"  No,  we  have  always  encamped  on  the  islands,  for  fear  of 
their  attacks." 

"  We  wish  to  spend  to-night  in  Baale.  Will  you  not  go  with 
us  thither,  that  .we  may  make  one  camp  of  it  ?  " 

"  We  much  regret  that  we  cannot  do  so,  but  we  must  reach 
Sesse  to-day,  as  we  are  the  bearers  of  important  tidings  for 
Monseigneur." 

"  Then  it  is  true  that  Monseigneur  returns  to  Europe  ?  "  ^ 

"  Yes,  we  are  now  taking  to  him  the  order  for  his  recall." 

"  Then  I  shall  be  able  to  travel  with  him.  I  shall  expect 
him  at  Nyayesi." 

This  dialogue  was  carried  on  half  in  shouts,  owing  to  the 
roughness  of  the  lake. 


4o8  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

]M_V  boat  now  moved  off  to  give  Herr  von  Tiedemann  the 
opportunity  of  putting  a  few  questions  to  the  gentlemen.  In  ten 
„     ,    .     minutes  more  we  had  concluded  this  conversation  on 

Conclusion 

of  the  inter-Lake  Victoria,  which  had  taken  place  under  such  unusual 

view. 

cuTumstances. 

"  Greeting  to  the  gentlemen  in  Sesse  and  Uganda." 

"  Greeting  to  our  brethren  in  Usukuma." 

The  sail  was  now  hoisted,  and  we  separated  on  our  different 
ways  towards  north  and  south.  The  sun  was  just  setting,  and 
tinted  the  bays  in  the  west  with  glowing  red.  Presently  we 
rowed  past  places  from  which  smoke  ascended.  I  gave  orders  to 
land,  but  was  informed  that  we  were  not  far  from  Baale,  and 
would  find  provisions  there. 

So  we  continued  our  voyage  by  moonlight.     At  eight  o'clock 

our  boats  grated  on  the  sand.     Here,  as  everywhere  along  Lake 

Victoria,   the    coast   extends   flat    and   shelving   very 

Flat  shores  .  ,. 

of  Lake  gradually  into  the  water,  and  the  boatmen  are  obliged 
to  jump  into  the  water  and  drag  the  boats  a  long  dis- 
tance. In  fact,  the  entire  lake,  which  occupies  an  area  about 
equal  to  that  of  the  kingdom  of  Bavaria,  is  rather  flat-shored, 
and  this  accounts  for  the  rapid  formation  of  waves  at  every 
sudden  squall.  The  whole  is  volcanic  ground.  The  island 
groups  in  the  south  are,  as  a  rule,  nothing  more  than  the  edges 
of  craters.  It  is  said  that  similar  crater  ridges,  forming  hidden 
reefs,  exist  in  some  parts  under  the  waters,  rendering  navigation 
dangerous.  Keelless  steamers  of  light  draught  are  therefore 
advisable  on  Lake  Victoria,  but  they  should  be  decked  and 
solidly  constructed,  to  resist  sudden  squalls  and  dashing  waters. 
On  my  arrival  in  Baale  I  had  only  eleven  boats  with  me. 
The  others,  unable  to  breast  the  waves,  had  remained,  as  I 
Arrival  heard  later,  to  the  north  at  Bujaju.  A  walk  of  five 
in  Baale.  mi^utes  from  the  shore,  through  woods  and  maize  fields, 
brought  us  to  the  village  of  Baale,  where  I  had  the  tents  pitched, 
and  quartered  the  people  in  the  huts.  As  usual,  I  placed  sentries 
near  the  boats.  A  few  fowls  were  soon  procured  and  put  into 
the  pot,  so  that  by  ten  o'clock  we  were  able  to  enjoy  a  hot  meal. 
Our  diet  was  still  very  good,  as  we  had  brought  rice  with  us 


DUMO  AND  ITS  SURROUNDINGS.  45& 

from  Uganda,  and  bananas  were  to  be  had  everywhere.     I  had 
taught  my  Somali  chef,  Hussein,  the  culinary  art.     He 
understood  how   to  prepare   really  good   soup  and  to  th?exp''ert 
roast  meat  to  my  satisfaction.     There  is  no  fear  of ''°°''' 
uncleanliness  with  the  Somalis  ;  they  are  patterns  of  cleanliness. 
T  intended  spending  the  next  day  at  Baale,  to  wait  for  the 
coming  up  of  the  other  boats ;  but  as  I  was  told,  about  noon, 
that  they  had  been  seen  on  the  horizon  making  southwards,  I 
gave  orders  to  start,  hoping  to  reach  Dumo  on  that  start  for 
day,  April  1st.     This  place  is  known  from  Stanley's  """"'■ 
descriptions  of  his  travels,  and,  as  he  relates,  he  had  thought  of 
passing  through  it  this  time  on  his  return  from  Lake  Albert. 
Stanley  might  have  fearlessly  gone  thither.     Sweet  peace  reigned 
here,  and,  as  the  Christian  party  were  always  in  possession  of 
boats,  he  would  most  likely  have  been  able  to  collect  a  flotilla 
with  which  to  cross  the  lake  to  Usukuma. 

We  arrived  at  Dumo  by  sunset.  The  place  is  situated  on  a 
little  bay  amidst  fields,  which  we  reach,  as  at  Baale,  by  going 
through  a  marshy  and  wooded  tract.  Dumo  is  small.  Description 
On  April  1st  it  was  deserted.  This  made  a  melan-  "^^ii™''- 
choly  and  somewhat  discouraging  impression  upon  me.  But  the 
evening,  when  we  partook  of  our  meal  by  moonlight  in  the  open 
air,  passed  in  lively  conversation,  and  a  deep  sleep  fortified  us 
for  the  following  day.  In  the  morning  the  lake  was  rough,  and 
the  waves  showed  white  crests,  and  my  Sesse  people  had  no 
inclination  to  put  to  sea  ;  but  I  ordered  them  to  do  so,  and 
though  we  got  wet  through,  we  reached  Sango  about  three 
o'clock  in  the  afternoon.  The  place  is  picturesquely  situated 
on  the  summit  of  a  hill,  visible  from  afar,  and  lying  to  the  north 
of  the  mouth  of  the  Kagera.  From  thence  an  exquisite  view  is 
obtained  across  the  mountains  of  Ankore  or  Busagalla.  Here  I 
had  to  collect  my  whole  fleet,  as  the  next  day  would  bring  us 
already  to  Busiba.  Of  the  remainder  of  my  own  people  I  had 
seen  nothing  for  three  days,  and  was  beginning  to  feel  waiting  for 
a  little  uneasy  about  the  matter.  Meanwhile  -we*^*^^*- 
installed  ourselves  comfortably  in  our  tents,  in  the  midst  of  an 
upland  furnished  with  banana  trees.     Food  was  here  brought  to 


460  NEW  LIGHT   ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

US  in  abundance,  and  ^ye  could  thoroughly  take  our  ease.  To 
my  great  joy,  the  boats  under  Nugula's  command  arrived  in  the 
evening  ^yith  a  great  shouting  from  the  crews,  and  I  learnt  that 
all  my  people  were  on  the  way. 

On  the  shore  at  the  foot  of  the  hill,  upon  which,  slightly 
inland,  stands  Sango,  a  varied  and  lively  activity  was  now 
sango  and  manifested.  In  all  ninety-three  boats,  manned  by  more 
the  fleet.  ^Yi^iW  two  thousand  men,  were  here  assembled.  The 
line  of  camp-fires  looked  like  the  lights  of  a  town.  Food  was 
being  everywhere  sought  for,  and  joyous  songs  resounded,  first 
from  one  camp-fire  and  then  from  another,  and  T  looked  forward 
to  the  events  the  coming  day  might  bring  with  the  greatest 
interest. 

Early  in  the  morning  we  were  under  weigh,  in  the  hope,  if 
possible,  of  reaching  by  noontide  Tabaliro,  one  of  the  islands 
of  Busiba,  in  front  of  the  mainland,  to  the  south  of  the  mouth 
The  River  of  the  Kagera.  "We  had  a  fine  view  of  this  river, 
Kagera.  -which,  in  great  breadth  and  fulness,  throws  itself  here 
into  the  lake.  At  this  spot  a  row  of  strange,  conical  rocks  rises 
out  of  the  water.  They  are  mostly  tenanted  by  birds  only. 
The  largest  of  these  islands  is  the  fertile  and  thickly-populated 
Tabaliro,  which  we  reached  at  two  o'clock.  The  inhabitants  of 
this  island  were  followers  of  Karema,  and  under  the  influence  of 
Kimbulus. 

Here  my  work  was  to  begin.  Immediately  on  my  landing 
with  twenty  boats,  in  advance  of  my  fleet,  I  called  together 
the  chiefs  of  the  tribes  to  hold  a  council.  These  are  quite 
a  different  race  from  the  Waganda  of  the  north.  The  men 
A  confer  ^^®  clothed  in  short  coats  made  of  straw,  and  carry 
ence  with    a  short  spear  and  lance,  bow  and  arrow ;  the  women 

+jip  diififs 

wear  long  petticoats  of  straw,  and  look  like  walking 
brooms.  The  people  have  the  unmistakable  air  of  true 
savages.  I  was  the  more  interested  in  them  as  here,  for 
the  first  time,  we  had  come  within  the  domain  of  German 
interests.  I  let  them  know  who  we  were  and  what  was  our 
business. 

"  I  come  in  the  name  of  Muanga,  the  king    of  Uganda. 


A^]'O^^G  THE  wasiba. 


461 


You  are  to  recognise  him  as  tlie  Mfalme  of  Uganda,  and  pay 
liim  the  trilnite  that  yon  owe  him.     Yon  must  drive  the  Arahs 


Wasiba  of  the  Island  of  Tabalieo. 

out  of  vonr  c.mntry.     If  you  do  this  yon  sliall  have  peace  ;  if 
you  will  not  do  it,  I  shall  make  war  upon  you." 


It  struck  me  that  these  people  were  less  submissive 


than 


402  yEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

I  Avas  accustomed  to  find  the  natives.  I  dismissed  them,  with 
the  order  to  meet  together  in  the  morning,  when  we  would 
hold  a  conference  on  these  matters. 

As  several  of  my  boats  were  visible  on  the  horizon,  I  entered 
the  village,  where  I  intended,  after  turning  out  the  inhabitants, 
to  quarter  myself.  But  I  soon  learnt  that  the  people  were 
preparing  to  make  an  attack  upon  us  during  the  night.  I 
An  anxious  preferred,  therefore,  to  encamp,  with  my  people,  close 
°^&''''  to  the  shore  in  the  vicinity  of  the  boats,  so  we 
returned  thither.  The  tents  were  then  pitched,  and  soon,  for 
the  first  time  on  German  ground,  the  German  flag  waved 
merrily  in  the  breeze  over  the  glorious  bay.  On  its  shores 
boat  after  boat  discharged  its  occupants,  and  in  a  short  time 
the  coast  was  covered  with  the  long-beaked  craft.  To  show  the 
people  of  Busiba  that  we  were  not  in  the  habit  of  being 
kept  waiting  by  black  men,  I  directed  that  all  cattle  in  sight 
should  be  driven  together  and  taken  possession  of,  and 
threatened  the  people  that  if  they  did  not  submit  by  the 
evening  I  would  fire  the  neighbouring  villages. 

"  I  have  been  informed  that  you  are  going  to  make  war 
upon  us  to-night,  and  believe  that  you  are  foolish  enough  to 
do  so  ;  but  you  shall  learn  to  know  us.     If  you  choose  war  with 

■warnin  ^^'  ^°^  °^®  °^  ^^^  ^^^  Bscape  with  his  life.  You  see 
to  the        that  your  herds  are  already  in  my  possession,  and  soon 

you  shall  see  the  flames  rising  from  the  roofs  of  your 
homes.  Therefore  decide.  Will  you  recognise  Muanga  as  your 
king,  or  die  ?  " 

"  We  will  acknowledge  Muanga  and  thee  as  our  masters, 
and  we  will  have  nothing  to  do  with  the  Arabs,"  was  the 
answer ;  but  all  that  evening  I  received  contradictory  reports 
from  Nugula  and  other  Waganda.  At  one  time  it  was  that  the 
Wasiba  were  prepared  to  fall  upon  us ;  then  again,  when  I  was 
about  to  go  at  them,  I  was  appeased  by  being  entreated  to  wait 
Reply  of  ^^°^^^  *^^  morning.  Accordingly,  I  had  a  good  Avatch 
the  kept  for  the  night,  and  waited  for  morning  to  come. 

In  the  early  morning  came  Nugula,  accompanied  by 
the  heads  of.  the  tribes,  to  tell  me  that  all  had  been  arranged 


THE  LETTER   OF  PERE  LOURDEL.  463 

between  them.  The  Wasiba  had  submitted  to  Muanga,  and 
would  pay  the  tribute  demanded  by  him,  and  indeed  they  would 
collect  it  that  very  morning.  They  said  that  Kimbuku  and 
Mtatemboa,  the  leaders  of  the  English  party  on  the  mainland 
opposite,  had  fled  a  few  days  previously  on  hearing  of  improved 
our  approach.  There  was,  therefore,  now  no  question  p^^^p*"*^' 
of  a  war,  and  he,  Nugula,  was  prepared,  if  I  so  willed  it,  to 
carry  on  the  further  business  alone. 

This  communication  was  confirmed  the  following  day,  in 
another  part  of  Busiba,  by  the  arrival  of  a  letter  from  Mons. 
Lourdel,  dated  March  31st.     It  ran  as  follows : — 

"  BiEN  CHER  MoNsiEUE, — Le  roi  Muanga  me  charge  de  vous 
informer  que  Mtatemboa,  I'un  des  chefs  tributaires,  chez  qui 
vous  devez  passer,  s'est  sauve  avec  une  partie  de  son  monde  par 
crainte  de  votre  passage.  Le  roi  Muanga  vous  prie  de  passer 
par  le  milieu  du  pays  de  Mtatemboa,  afin  de  frapper  d'avantage 
de  crainte  les  gens  du  pays.  Je  pense  que  vous  n'aurez  rien  k 
craindre  en  passant  par  I'Uziba. 

"  Vous  ferez  bien  de  briiler  la  capitale  de  Mtatemboa  et  de 
le  faire  disparaitre  et  mettre  un  des  fils  a  sa  place." 

(TEANSLATIOX.) 

"  Very  dear  Sir, — King  Muanga  desires  me  to  inform  you 
that  Mtatemboa,  one  of  the  tributary  chiefs,  through  whose 
territory  you  are  about  to  travel,  has  fled  with  some  ofpereiour- 
his  people  out  of  fear  of  your  passage.  King  Muanga  *^^'°^^"^''" 
begs  you  to  traverse  the  centre  of  Mtatemboa's  country,  to  strike 
with  all  the  greater  fear  the  people  of  the  land.  I  do  not  think 
you  have  anything  to  dread  in  passing  through  Uziba. 

"  You  will  do  well  to  set  fire  to  Mtatemboa's  capital,  to  cause 
him  to  disappear,  and  to  set  up  one  of  his  sons  in  his  place." 

The  turn  matters  had  taken  was  a  most  welcome  one  to  us, 
as  it  relieved  us  of  the  necessity  of  fighting  once  more  upon  the 
west  coast  of  Lake  Victoria  for  what,  after  all,  were  foreign 
interests,  against  foes  of  whose  strength  we  were  not  in  a  position 


464  NEW  LIGHT   ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

to  estimate.  Had  I  received  Mons.  Lourdel's  letter  before  leav- 
ing Sesse  I  should  certainly  have  carried  out  Muanga's  wish  that 
I  should  burn  the  capital  of  the  fugitive  Mtatemboa.  As  it  was, 
the  letter  only  reached  me  at  Bukoba,  when  we  had  left  that 
district  far  behind  us  ;  and  as  the  report  that  the  entire 
couseauent  party  of  the  Arabs  in  the  country  had  everywhere  taken 
on  the  news.  ^^  flight  On  hearing  of  our  approach,  proved  correct, 
I  thought  it  best,  in  view  of  my  small  supply  of  ammunition, 
and  being  ignorant  of  what  might  still  be  before  me  in  the 
German  colony,  to  desist  from  a  pursuit  into  the  unknown  west. 
I  therefore  contented  myself  with  carrying  out  to  the  letter  the 
commission  I  had  undertaken  in  Uganda,  namely,  to  bring  the 
Wasiba  into  subjection  to  Muanga  and  to  collect  the  tribute  for 
couection  him.  This  I  did  on  April  4th  at  Tabaliro,  and  after- 
of  tribute,  ^^ards  at  Bukoba,  where  I  stayed  one  day  for  the  purpose. 
I  was  still  less  inclined  to  make  an  adventurous  raid  upon  the 
west  that  was  unknown  to  me  after  receiving  a  letter  at  Tabaliro 
from  Monseigneur  Livinhac,  describing  the  situation  in  the  south 
of  the  lake,  from  which  I  was  forced  to  conclude  that  there  also 
the  German  Emin  Pasha  Expedition  would  have  to  fight  its  way. 
The  letter  ran  as  follows  :  — 

"  Been  cher  Docteue, — II  est  vrai  que  je  suis  rappele  en 
Europe  par  mes  superieurs.  Je  vais  faire  mon  possible  pour 
vous  rejoindre  au  sud  de  Lac  et  profiter  de  Foflfre  gracieuse  que 
vous  m'avez  faite  de  me  prendre  sous  votre  drapeau.  Le  cour- 
Letter  from  rier  qui  a  apporte  nos  dernieres  lettres  a  ete  attaque 
neu^Lmn-  ^^^re  Usougo  et  Masali.  Presque  toutes  nos  lettres  et 
^ao.  nos  journaux  ont   ete  perdus,   ce   qui   fait  que  nous 

sommes  toujours  sans  nouvelles.  Le  P.  Schynse  m'ecrit  de 
Zanzibar.  La  Caravane  Stanley-Emin  y  arrivait  heureuse- 
ment  -d  la  fin  de  Novembre.  La  route  est  ouverte  et  le 
pavilion  allemand  flotte  partout  depuis  Mpwapwa  jusqu'a 
Zanzibar. 

"  Je  vous  prie  de  vous  arreter  a  Nyagezi,  oii  vous  trouverez 
une  grande  maison  pour  vous  loger  convenablement  vous  et 
vos  hommes.     De  la  au  Bukumbi  il  n'y  a  que  trois  heures  de 


MONSEIGNEUR  LIVINHAC'S  LETTER.  465 

marche.  Les  quelques  Arabes  qui  se  trouvent  ii  Masawza  (golfe 
de  Speke)  font  ce  qu'ils  peuvent  pour  indisposer  les  populations 
•contre  les  blancs.  Yotre  arrivee  les  rendra  plus  polls,  j'espere. 
"  Au  plaisir  de  vous  revoir  bientot  et  de  voyager  avec  vous. 
"  En  attendant  ce  plaisir  je  vous  prie  d'agreer  I'expression 
des  sentiments  de  profond  respect  et  de  haute  consideration  avec 
lesquels  je  suis 

"Votre  affectionne, 

"Leon  Livinhac, 

"  Sup.  des  Miss,  d' Alger." 
(TRANSLATION.) 

"  Very  dear  Doctor, — It  is  true  that  I  am  recalled  to 
Europe  by  my  superiors.  I  shall  do  my  utmost  to  join  you 
south  of  the  lake,  and  to  avail  myself  of  your  kind  oflfer  to  take 
me  under  your  flag.  The  messenger  who  brought  us  our  last 
letters  was  attacked  between  Osongo  and  Masali.  Almost  all 
our  letters  and  newspapers  were  lost,  so  that  we  are  still  with- 
out news.  Father  Schynse  writes  to  me  from  Zanzibar.  The 
Stanley-Emin  caravan  arrived  there  safely  at  the  end  of 
November.  The  road  is  open,  and  the  German  flag  waves 
■everywhere  from  Mpuapua  to  Zanzibar. 

"  I  beg  you  will  stop  at  Nyagezi,  where  you  will  find  a  large 
house  to  lodge  you  suitably,  you  and  your  men.  It  is  only  a 
three  hours'  march  from  thence  to  Bukumbi.  The  few  Arabs 
who  are  at  Masawza  (Speke's  Gulf)  are  doing  all  in  their  power 
to  set  the  inhabitants  against  the  whites.  I  hope  your  arrival 
will  have  the  effect  of  making  them  more  polite. 

"  Trusting  soon  to  have  the  pleasure  of  seeing  you  again, 
.and  of  travelling  with  you,  I  beg  you  will  accept  the  expression 
of  the  sentiments  of  profound  respect  and  consideration  with 

which  I  am 

"  Yours  affectionately, 

"Leon  Livinhac, 

"  ,Sup.  of  the  Miss,  of  Algiers'' 

Taking  into  consideration  that  for  the  repeating  guns  we 

30 


466  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

had  scarcely  forty  cartridges  per  man  left,  and  that  the 
ammunition  for  muzzle  and  breech-loaders  had  like- 
the'exp"edi-  wise  dwindled  considerably,  it  will  be  readily  un- 
*"""■  derstood  why,  on  receiving  the  above  intelligence, 
I  confined  myself  to  simply  fulfilling  what  I  had  undertaken 
to  do. 

On  April  4th,  when  all  was  in  order,  and  Nugula  declared 

that  I  might  leave  the  rest  to  him,  I  quitted  Tabaliro  at 

from'^  ^^^  eight  in  the  evening,  and  travelled  further  south,  with 

Tabahro.    ^^^  intention  of  reducing  the  mainland  of  Busiba  also  to 

submission. 

Night  passages  upon  Lake  Victoria  are  vastly  preferable  to 
those  undertaken  in  the  dazzling  sun,  when  the  reflection  of  its 
rays  from  the  water  mercilessly  burns  the  skin,  and  the  heat 
becomes  unbearable  if  we  strive,  by  covering  ourselves  up,  to 
Pleasures  of  protect  oursclvcs  against  them.  At  night  it  is  cool ; 
the  passage,  ^j^g  ^^y^  divest  oueself  of  the  troublesome  sun  helmet, 
and  recline  at  ease  in  an  armchair.  The  moon  stands  bright 
in  the  heavens,  illuminating,  with  her  gentle  light,  the  land  to 
the  right  and  the  mysterious  surface  of  the  lake.  Far  off  in 
the  east  tower,  like  a  strong  wall,  heavy  thunder-clouds,  in 
which  the  lightning  quivers  and  flashes  incessantly  ;  but  above 
our  heads  it  is  clear,  and  only,  like  the  phantoms  of  a  dream, 
a  light  cloud  passes  from  time  to  time  over  the  face  of  the 
moon.  All  nature  lies  in  peaceful  repose  around  us,  and 
the  soul  is  absorbed  in  contemplation  of  the  great  mystery  of 
the  Universe.  Like  panting  horses  in  a  race,  our  boats  fly  along, 
side  by  side,  with  the  rapidity  of  arrows,  past  dark  inlets  and 
fantastically  jutting  points  of  land,  clothed  with  primeval  woods, 
and  stretching  precipitately  down  to  the  water's  edge.  My  men 
are  asleep,  and  no  sound  is  audible  save  the  loud  breathing  of 
the  boatmen  and  the  measured  beat  of  the  oars.  Involuntarily 
our  thoughts  fly  homewards  to  the  dear  ones  in  Germany ; 
night  bridges  over  the  barriers  of  space.  Thus  we  travel 
onwards  through  the  night  till  towards  the  morning.  From 
time  to  time  we  glide  by  small  islands,  rising  out  of  the  water 
on  the  left. 


-1    STORM   IN  EQUATORIAL    AFRICA. 


4G7 


I  had  intended  travelling  as  far  as  Biikoba  that  night,  Inir 
towards  three  o'clock  the  thnnderclonds  from  the  east  spread 
above  us,  squalls  of  wind  set  in,  and  we  considered  ourselves 


ibrtunate  that  au'  \^ere 
enabled,  by  the  greatest 
exertions  of  the  boatmen, 
to    reach    the   Bay  . 

•     An  ap- 
of     Makonga      just  proacMng 
,     ,.  '  '  storm. 

Iietore  the  storm 
came  rattling  down  upon 
us.  Tlie  tents  were  rapidly 
pitched,  and  the  baggage 
hurriedly  deposited  in 
them.  Whilst  the  light- 
ning flashed,  the  thunder 
rolk'd,  and  heavy  rain  came 
down,  I  made  myself  com- 
tbrtable  in  one  of  the 
liouses  of  the  village,  where  my  Somalis  were  quartered.  Foi" 
my  column  I  had  still  at  my  disposal  thirty-three  Ijoats,  aud  the 
smaller  ones,  which  were  behind,  had  taken  refuge  where  they 


Voyage  along  the  Coast  of  r.u.siBA. 


468  NE]V  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

could  along  the  coast.  In  the  morning,  passing  hy  Makonga, 
they  proceeded  earlier  than  ourselves  direct  to  Bukoba,  where 
the  meeting-place  had  been  appointed. 

Before  starting  for  that  place  I  had  to  inflict  a  mild  punish- 
ment on  my  servant  Buana   Mku.     On  the  previous 
Mku'smis-  evening  I  had  put  aside  from  my  supper  half  a  fowl, 
ijehaviour.  ^jj^^j^   j   ^^^   asked   him    to   set    before   me    that  I 

might  finish  it. 

"  The  half  fowl  ?  "  said  Buana  Mku.  "  Why,  you  ate  that 
up  yesterday  evening,"  he  continued,  with  a  bold  front,  fancying 
that  I  had  forgotten  all  about  the  affair. 

My  servants  might  have  had  half  a  fowl,  and  welcome,  as 
there  was  no  lack  of  provisions,  but  the  audacity  of  lying  thus 
Summary  to  my  face  iuduced  me  once  more  to  teach  Buana  Mku 
punishment.  ^j^a,t  it  is  best  to  stick  to  the  truth  in  all  the  circum- 
stances of  life.  Twenty-five  lashes  caused  him  to  incline  more 
and  more  to  this  opinion. 

We  then  set  off  for  Bukoba,  which  we  reached  after  a  pas- 
., ,    ,  ,    sase  of  two  or  three  hours.     On  the  left,  opposite  the 

Island  of  '^  .  p    -n  • 

Bukerebe,  Bay  of  Bukoba,  the  little  island  oi  Bukerebe  rises 
picturesquely  from  the  water.  To  the  south  are 
grouped  a  few  more  small  islands  ;  they  are  all  deserted.  As 
the  Waganda  have  taken  possession  of  the  whole  lake,  the  in- 
habitants prefer  to  settle  in  the  interior  of  the  country,  to  avoid 
being  continually  molested  by  passing  fleets  from  Uganda. 
Bukoba  is  the  chief  point  of  southern  Busiba.  From  here  I 
was  told  Karague  could  be  reached  in  three  stages.  I  gave 
orders  to  have  the  camp  pitched  upon  a  green  meadow,  about 
twenty-five  feet  above  the  level  of  the  lake,  commanding  an 
exquisite  view  of  the  bay.  High  woods  framed  in  the  meadow 
at  the  back.  The  whole  formed  a  landscape  of  remarkable 
beauty,  and  seemed,  by  its  unique  position,  to  invite  the  esta- 
blishment of  a  station.  Later  on,  in  Mpuapua,  I  recommended 
the  spot  to  Emin  Pasha  for  this  purpose.  It  is  the  more 
particularly  suited  for  a  station  as  provisions  are  to  be  had 
in  abundance  in  the  neighbourhood,  and  the  harbour  offers 
good  anchorage  for  boats. 


THE  SULTAN'S  SUBMISSION j—BUJIBIDE.  469 

Immediately  on  m}'  arrival  I  sent  Stephano,  with  some 
soldiers,  to  the  Sultan  of  the  country,  to  summon  him  to  a  con- 
ference. He  had  no  desire  to  be  on  unfriendly  terms  The  suitan 
with  us,  and  at  once  sent  considerable  tribute  offerings,  summoned, 
both  for  the  men  and  for  ourselves.  As  a  return  gift,  I  sent  him 
in  the  evening  some  gunpowder,  pieces  of  stuff,  and  a  few  finger- 
rings,  and  again,  on  the  following  day,  received  from  him  three 
oxen  for  slaughtering,  a  flock  of  sheep  and  goats,  as  well  as 
milk  and  honey  in  abundance.  The  Sultan,  who,  on  the  first 
day,  had  sent  his  sons  to  welcome  me,  himself  appeared  on  the 
second  day,  a  Sunday,  to  offer  his  submission.  He  promises  of 
promised  most  unequivocally  to  pay  the  tribute  de-  submission, 
manded  by  Muanga  so  soon  as  Nugula  should  arrive  with  his 
boats  for  the  purpose  of  collecting  it.  Here,  too,  my  task  was 
now  fulfilled,  and  I  spent  a  most  happy  Sunday  afternoon  on 
April  6th. 

It  was  Easter  Sunday,  and  the  spirit  of  Easter  pervaded  our 
hearts.  The  moon  was  full  that  evening,  and  we  conversed 
together  in  front  of  my  tent  until  late  into  the  night.      ^ 

We  were  awakened  early  next  day  by  a  downpour  Easter 
of  rain,   which   lasted   the   whole   morning,  and   pre- 
vented our  starting  till  towards  noon.     At  one  o'clock  the  sun 
burst  forth,   and  we  set  forth,  hoping  to  reach  the  island  of 
Bumbide    (called  by  Stanley  Bumbiie)    that  evening.      Here 
Stanley  had  experienced  "  the  day  ol    terror  in  Bumbire,"  as 
he  calls  it,  on  which  the  natives  wanted  to  drag  him  out  of  his 
boat  by  the  ears,  and  threatened  him  with   death ;  a  island  of 
fate  which  he  only   escaped  by   rapid  flight.      From  B^'^i'i*^- 
here  he  hastened  back  towards  the  south,  to  the  island  he  calls 
"  Refuge  Island  "  (Banderema),  lying  opposite  Soswa. 

I  was  most  curious  to  make  the  acquaintance  of  the  wild 
tribes  that  had  inspired  a  Stanley  with  such  fear. 

Towards  seven  o'clock  in  the  evening  the  high  shores  of 
Bumbide  showed  themselves  straight  in  front  of  us.  For  an 
hour  we  rowed  parallel  with  them,  in  a  southerly  direction. 
On  landing  at  eight  o'clock  we  went  up  a  steep  incline, 
upon  which  villages  were  scattered.     Who  shall  describe  my 


470  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

astonishment  at  discovering  an  inoffensive,  timid  people,  who 
eagerly  strove  to  anticipate  all  our  wishes,  immediately  turned 
.  out  of  their  dwellings  for  us,  lent  a  hand  in  pitching  our 

ness  of  the  teuts,  and  brought  in  as  much  food  as  was  to  be  had 
na  ives.  ^.^  ^^^  island !  It  struck  me  these  people  must  have 
changed  considerably  since  Stanley's  first  visit,  and  this  idea 
was  in  no  way  altered  during  my  further  stay  on  the  island. 

The  following  morning  was  wet  again,  as  usual,  and  I  was 
unable  to  start  until  noon  for  the  most  southern  of  the  three 
Bumbide  islands,  which  I  reached  in  the  evening.  Here  the 
camp  had  to  be  crowded  into  a  small  space  on  the  shore,  which 
was  unpleasant,  as  I  had  between  nine  hundred  and  a  thousand 
men  with  me.  The  evenings  were  now  very  enjoyable  for  us, 
as  we  were  provided  with  the  materials  for  lighting,  which  I  had 
devised  in  Uganda,  namely,  a  large  earthenware  pot  filled  with 
grease,  into  which  we  stuck  three  or  four  wicks,  which  were  set 
alight,  and  lit  up  the  darkness  with  a  flickering  radiance.  This 
Avas  all  the  more  convenient  as  the  moon,  upon  whose  light  we 
had  hitherto  depended,  was  nightly  on  the  wane. 

On  the  morning  of  April  9th  I  climbed  the  steep  ascent  of 
Bumbide,  to  gain  a  view  over  the  lake  and  the  surrounding 
View  of  landscape.  Far  away  to  the  south-east  a  speck  was 
lake         pointed  out  to  me  as  being  Soswa,  the  destination  of 

Victoria  (~>  ^ 

our  voyage  for  to-day.  To  the  south  extended  a  whole 
circle-  of  islands,  which  partially  veiled  the  south-west  side  of 
Lake  Victoria  from  view,  yet  not  sufficiently  to  prevent  our 
being  able  to  follow  the  line  of  the  coast  behind  them.  My 
people  informed  me  this  was  the  land  of  Usindja,  extending 
along  the  south-west  of  the  lake.  I  returned  in  joyful  mood  to 
the  camp,  for  to-day  would  see  the  end  of  our  southern  course, 
and  we  were  to  turn  to  the  east. 

We  set  off  at  about  eight  o'clock,  and  pursued  our  journey 
at  first  still  in  a  southward  direction.  Then  on  reaching  the 
Course  to-  ^^^^^^  ^^'  Rubili,  where  some  of  the  people  hoped  to  be 
wards        allowed  to  encamp,  I  gave  the  order  to  turn  to  the 

east,  towards  boswa.  It  was  a  wonderfully  fine  after- 
noon.     The    air   was   clear,    and    we   could   see   far  into   the 


VOLCANIC  TRACTS :~ENCAMPMENT  OF  SOSWA.  471 

■distance.     The  group  of  islands  we  left  behind  us  on  the  south, 
whose   circular   wreath    towards   the  north   is  formed   by   the 
Bumbide   islands,  looked   picturesque   and   even   strange,   and 
led  the  mind  to  reflections  as  to  their  origin.     On  this  after- 
noon  T   recognised  more  than  ever  that   the  region  of  Lake 
Victoria  was  one  of  powerful   volcanic  activity.     Everywhere 
along   the   lake  I  could  discover  traces  of  the  water  volcanic 
having  retreated,  and  at  Ukumbi  I  learnt  from  Mon-  ""^^^^  °^ 
seigneur  Hirth  that  the  water  continued  to  rise  during  victoria, 
a  period  of  seventeen  years,  and  then  fell  again  during  an  equal 
cycle   of  seventeen   years.     Whether   this   would   lead   to  the 
conclusion  that  the  bed  of  Lake  Victoria  is  subject  to  periodical 
shocks,  I  am  unable  to  say,  but  am  inclined  to  conjecture  that 
this  is  the  case.     In  like  manner,  although  in  longer  periods  of 
time,    the  shores  and  beds  of  oceans   rise  and  fall.     If  these 
regular  alternations  in  the  level  of  the  waters  really  take  place, 
they  can  hardly  be  explained  in  any  other  way. 

These  were  my  reflections  on  April  9th,  as  we  made  for  the 
island  of  Soswa,  which  became  visible  on  the  distant  horizon. 
The  sun  went   down,    but   Soswa  was  not  yet  reached.     Our 
flotilla  had  long  disappeared  behind  us ;  only  Herr  von  Tiede- 
mann's  boat,  my  own,  and  a  third  one,  kept  an  equal  speed.     It 
was  nine  o'clock  when  we  came  abreast  of  the  foremost  ite  soswa 
of  the  Soswa  isles.     It  was  covered  with  primeval  forest,  i^i^^ids- 
and  the  wind,  which  had  risen,  dashed  the  waves  with -a  weird 
sound  against  the  wall  of  rock.     We  passed  by  several  islands, 
bearing  through  a  sort  of  canal,  until  at  last,  when  it  was  already 
ten  o'clock  at  night,  we  landed  upon  a  rocky  and  inhospitable 
shore  in  the  south  of  one  of  them.     Pushing  through  low  brush- 
wood, we  succeeded  in  reaching  an  open  declivity,  where  we 
could  pitch  our  tents.     I  established  the  men  in  some^^^.^.^.^^ 
dilapidated  huts,  such  as  the  Waganda  have  everywhere  encamp- 
prepared  for  their  night  encampment  on  their  voyages. 
They  were  primitive  straw  huts,  but  offered  protection  from  the 
inclemency  of  the  weather.     Many  of  my  men,  amongst  them 
all  the  Somalis,  had  become  seasick  on   the  passage.     Had  it 
been  necessary  to  fight  just  then  we  should  have  fared  but  badly. 


472  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

That  night  another  terrible  thunderstorm,  with  \yind  and 
heavy  rain,  broke  upon  us,  rendering  the  tent,  with  its  project- 
ing roof,  highly  dangerous,  while  the  violent  gusts  threatened 
every  moment  to  carry  it  away.  We  obtained  but  little  sleep, 
but  on  the  following  morning  the  golden  sun  smiled  once  more 
upon  the  glorious  lake,  whose  southern  shores  were  now  before 
our  eyes,  and  cheerfulness  reigned  around,  when  at  eight 

Arrival  .  ,-  j>ii-i 

of  missing  o'clock  it  was  anuouuced  that  some  oi  the  lagging  boats 
of  the  previous  evening  had  already  passed  Soswa  in  the 
early  hours  of  the  morning,  on  their  way  to  Bandelundo,  where 
it  was  our  intention  to  encamp  that  day.  At  once  I  gave  the 
order  for  the  boats  moored  at  Soswa  to  start,  eleven  of  them 
having  come  in  during  the  night. 

If  our  encampment  in  Soswa  had  been  inhospitable  and 
comfortless,  we  were  richly  compensated  in  Bandelundo.  Here 
Encam  ^^^  ^feve  able  to  set  up  our  encampment  on  level  ground, 
ment  in  beneath  the  shadow  of  a  huge  cotton  tree.  The  sun 
'  shone  bright.  There  was  a  sufficiency  of  provisions  at 
hand,  as  we  still  had  with  us  some  of  the  sheep  from  the  Massai 
flocks,  and  grain  that  we  had  brought  from  Sesse. 

Thus  we  passed  a  pleasant  afternoon  and  evening  at 
Bandelundo,  cheered  by  the  knowledge  that  the  voyage,  which 
gradually  began  to  become  very  wearisome,  would,  please  God, 
in  two  days  be  at  an  end. 

All  these  small  islands  have  a  very  singular  appearance,  as 
they  are  very  rocky,  and  often  form  the  quaintest  shapes.  They 
generally  rise  sharp  and  white  out  of  the  blue  water,  conjuring 
A  quiet  up  fantastic  ideas  in  the  mind,  especially  in  the  moon- 
journey.  light.  We  Continued  to  steer  past  groups  or  separate 
islands,  which  gave  the  mind  cause  for  reflections  of  various 
kinds.  But  the  charm  of  novelty  had  vanished  from  our 
passage.  As  a  rule,  I  used  to  open  my  umbrella,  and  take  up 
to  read,  out  of  our  little  library,  some  volume  that  had  not 
been  too  often  studied  before.  Just  then  I  was  once  more  read- 
ing Bulwer's  "  Last  Days  of  Pompeii,"  and,  in  truth,  surroundings 
more  calculated  to  bring  before  the  mind  the  events  in  sunny 
Pompeii  could  scarcely  be  imagined.     That  day  we  ran  to  the 


THE  ISLANDS   OF  KURU  AND  DJUMA.  473 

island  of  Kuru,  situated  opposite  to  Kome,  whose  inhabitants 
alone  have  been  successful  in  resisting  the  Waganda,  Arrival  at 
and  consequently  live  in  bitter  enmity  with  them.  We  ^°^^- 
saw  cattle  at  Kome  and  the  smoke  of  hut  fires.  I  would  gladly 
have  sent  across  to  get  food  from  thence,  as  the  corn  for  my 
men  was  beginning  to  run  low,  but  I  had  no  stuffs  to  offer  in 
payment,  and  it  went  against  my  conscience  to  attack  a  tribe, 
whose  bravery  and  independence,  in  the  face  of  the  dreaded 
Waganda,  I  could  not  but  recognise  and  admire  in  secret. 

The  shore  of  Kuru,  by  which  we  encamped,  is  very  stony, 
and  it  was  with  difficulty  that  a  place  was  found  where  Tiede- 
mann  and  I  could  pitch  our  tents.     We  knew  that  on  ^ 

^  Encamp- 

the  following  day  we  could  reach  Nyagesi,  the  French  ment  at 
Mission  station,  and  were  consequently  in  a  very  excited 
state  of  mind  as  we  sat  after  supper  drinking  our  tea  by  the  light 
of  our  primitive  lamp.  In  Nyagesi,  we  were  told,  there  was  a  fine 
dwelling-house,  and  we  were  even  dazzled  with  the  prospect  of  a 
room  on  the  first  floor.  Besides,  we  had  been  told  at  comforts  of 
Sesse,  that  European  tobacco  was  to  be  had  there,  and  ei'^^ii^atioii. 
that  after  months  of  abstinence  we  could  once  more  indulge  in 
a  glass  of  cognac  and  water.  All  this  excited  the  imagination 
to  joyous  anticipation,  and  it  was  eleven  o'clock  when,  in  high 
spirits,  M'e  retired  to  bed. 

In  the  morning  we  continued  our  voyage,  passing  first  along 
by  the  island  of  Kome,  and  then  by  the  mainland,  which  in  the 
south-west  stood  out  every  moment  more  sharply  and  distinctly. 
Once  more  the  weather  was  glorious,  and  at  twelve  o'clock  we 
passed  the  island  of  Djuma,  where  Stephano  proposed  to  me 
again  to  set  up  our  camp,  which  I,  however,  declined  to  do.  We 
then  turned  south-eastwards,  and  now  the  shores  to  the  nj^ma  and 
left,  leading  in  the  direction  of  the  creek  of  Ukumbi,  ^^™''^' 
became  more  and  more  distinctly  visible.  We  could  distinctly 
perceive  that  we  were  approaching  the  end  of  our  voyage  on  the 
lake  ;  but  the  whole  afternoon  passed  away  before  we  reached  the 
entrance  to  the  sound.  At  about  half-past  five  we  rowed  by  the 
marvellously  shaped  south-west  corner  of  the  entrance,  and  noticed 
to  our  left  the  peculiar,  skittle-shaped  granitic  rocks  and  basalt 


474  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

formations  which  lend  to  the  coast  of  Usukuma  such  an  original 
character.  In  the  middle  of  the  somid  rises  a  steep  little  island, 
covered  with  primeval  forest,  which  we  left  on  our  right.  We 
approached  nearer  and  nearer  to  the  eastern  side  of  the  sound, 
where  the  settlements  and  iires  of  the  Wasukuma  could  be  seen. 
The  oarsmen  were  extremely  exhausted  by  the  exertions  of  the 
last  few  days,  but  now  they  once  more  put  forth  all  their 
strength,  and  with  a  cheerful  singing  of  songs  we  approached  the 
spot  where,  in  the  twilight,  the  outlines  of  the  Roman 

Catholic  o      J 

Hissionof  Catholic  Missiou  of  Nyagesi  were  pointed  out  to  me. 
yagesi.  J  g^QQjj  ^j^  ^jjg  hows  of  the  boat,  expectantly  awaiting 
the  moment  of  arrival  and  the  meeting  with  the  brethren  of  the 
Mission.  We  approached  the  shore,  passing  by  wonderful  for- 
mations of  rock.  The  boat  ran  in ;  I  jumped  out,  and  was 
accosted  from  the  darkness  with  words  of  greeting  certainly 
spoken  in  a  strong  Alsatian  accent. 

"  Welcome  to  you,  gentlemen  !  I  am  astonished  to  see  you 
so  soon.  Your  coming  has  already  been  announced  to  me  by  a 
A  welcome  letter  from  Monseigneur  Livinhac.  I  am  Monseigneur 
in  German,  jjirtt^  and  I  presume  that  I  am  addressing  Dr.  Peters." 

I  called  out  joyfully,  "  Good  evening  !  It  is  indeed  a  glad 
surprise  to  me  to  be  greeted  here  in  the  German  tongue.  Herr 
von  Tiedemann  will  be  here  directly  ;  his  boat  is  immediately 
behind  mine." 

My  words  were  presently  fulfilled  ;  and  so  we  strode  onward 
together,  through  fields  of  maize  and  kitchen  gardens,  towards  the 
large  square  yard  surrounded  by  buildings,  on  the  left  of  which  the 
brightly  lighted  rooms  of  the  priests'  dwelling  of  the  missionary 
station  of  Nyagesi  gleamed  a  hospitable  welcome  upon  us.  We 
traversed  a  long  corridor,  and  Monseigneur  Hirth  ushered  Herr  von 
Tiedemann  and  myself  to  the  separate  dormitories  that  had  been 
prepared  for  us.  After  a  hasty  toilet,  we  repaired  to  Monseigneur 
Hirth's  sitting-room,  where  Pere  Guyaut  and  the  Brother  of  the 
station  were  introduced  to  us.    I  handed  over  the  letters 

A  sumptu- 
ous civilised  from  Uganda,  after  reading  which  Monseigneur  Hirth 

bade  us  welcome  once  again.    We  were  then  conducted 

to  the  refectory,  where  we  found  awaiting  us  what  was,  according 


PROSPECTS   OF  RETURN— NEWS  FROM  EUROPE.  475 

to  our  ideas,  a  right  royal  meal.  First  came  a  vegetable  soup, 
prepared  in  the  French  fashion ;  next  came  fish,  potatoes,  bread, 
kohl-rabi,  beetroot  and  cabbage,  roast  mutton  and  fricassee  of 
fowl ;  then,  as  a  concluding  course,  cheese,  butter,  and  fruit, 
with  which  we  drank  cool  banana  wine,  the  whole  feast  wind- 
ing up  with  a  small  glass  of  clear  banana  spirit.  Who  could 
blame  us  if  our  mood  was  a  very  excited  and  merry  one  ? 
Behind  us  lay  the  dangers  and  discomforts  of  the  Victoria 
JN^yanza,  and  we  now  were  actually  upon  the  soil  of  the  German 
East  African  colony.  Our  return  to  the  coast  and  to  our  homes, 
which  hitherto  appeared  as  a  dream  in  the  hazy  distance,  became 
from  that  day  a  fact  upon  which  we  could  once  more  practically 
reckon,  and  our  thoughts  were  duly  directed  to  the  future. 
True,  I  had  still  many  cares  before  me.     Considering  „ 

•'  ,  '^  Hopes  and 

the  treatment  I  had  experienced  since  the  beginning  of  antioipa- 
the  expedition,  I  had  to  be  prepared  to  encounter  fresh 
difficulties  of  a  similar  kind,  so  soon  as  I  should  reach  the 
territories  adjoining  the  coast.  But  my  nerves  had  been  braced 
by  what  now  lay  behind  us,  and  I  had  long  accustomed  myself, 
when  new  difficulties  and  dangers  arose  in  our  path,  to  apply 
to  ourselves  the  old  saying,  -^  I  think  we  also  can  bear  this 
like  men." 

In  holiday  mood,  I  awoke  the  next  day  in  a  whitewashed 
bedroom.  In  Nyagesi,  in  the  library  of  P^re  Schynse,  I  had 
come  upon  a  number  of  German  and  French  papers,  though 
they  certainly  only  came  down  as  far  as  the  previous  August, 
amongst  others  the  German  Colonial  newspaper  and  News  from 
the  Mouvement  Geographique,  of  Brussels,  in  which  ^"™p*- 
we  read  the  first  account,  though  in  a  very  distorted  and  in- 
correct form,  of  our  landing  at  Kwaihu  Bay.  I  rose,  according 
to  my  custom,  before  six  o'clock,  and  seated  myself,  in  the  quiet 
peace  of  that  Sunday  dawn,  in  the  cloister  of  the  station,  giving 
m3'self  up  to  peaceful  reflection. 

At  six  o'clock  the  Mission  bell  rang  for  service,  and  I  too 
bent  my  spirit  in  humility  before  God,  who  had  safely  led  us 
hither  through  all  dangers  and  difficulties.     We  then  met  in. 
the  refectory  for  a  sumptuous  breakfast,  after  which  I  wrote 


476  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

reports  to  Germany,  which  were  to  be  forwarded  at  once  next 
Reports  for  niorning  to  the  coast  by  express  messengers,  namely, 
home.  jj^y  t^yo  porters,  Farialla  and  Pemba  Moto.  I  was  the 
more  anxious  to  send  these  despatches  as  quickly  as  might  be, 
as  further  details  had  been  made  known  to  me  in  Nyagesi 
respecting  our  reported  collapse,  and  I  was  ignorant  whether 
our  relatives  in  Germany  had  been  already  reassured  as  to  our 
position,  by  later  information.  Therefore  I  wrote  a  report  of 
some  length  to  the  German  Emin  Pasha  Expedition  committee, 
and  to  the  German  Colonial  Company.  As  the  first  of  these 
reports  is  characteristic  of  my  state  of  mind  on  that  day,  I  give 
it  here,  although  extracts  from  it  were  published  some  time 
since  in  the  German  Colonial  Gasette  : — ■ 

"  I  am  told  here,  on  my  arrival  in  Usukuma,  that  it  has 
been  reported  in  Europe  our  expedition  had  failed,  and  that  I 
myself  was  dead.  The  remark  has  been  added,  that  this  was 
Real  con-  just  what  had  been  predicted,  for  all  the  world  knew 
tife  Massai  that  it  would  be  impossible  to  pass  through  the  Massai 
country,  couutry  with  an  expedition  such  as  mine ;  that  I  had 
voluntarily  rushed  to  my  ruin,  etc.,  etc.  I  beg  the  honourable 
committee  kindly  to  allow  me  to  make  the  following  remarks,  in 
all  humility : — 

"1.  Firstly,  being  on  the  spot,  I  was  probably  in  a  better 

position  than  our  critics  in  Europe,  or  on  the  coast,  to  judge  of 

the  possibility  or  impossibility  of  accomplishing  my  expedition 

with  the  means  at  my  disposal.     It  was  never  my  intention  to 

endanger,  like  a  madman,  the  lives  of  those  entrusted 

A  small  D     J  > 

column  to  my  care.  If,  nevertheless,  I  pushed  forward  with 
my  small  column,  it  was  because  I  did  not  consider  the 
obstacles  in  our  path  to  be  insurmountable,  despite  all  the  talk 
that  was  made  about  them ;  and  the  result  fully  vindicated  the 
correctness  of  my  view. 

"  2.  The  difference  between  my  estimate  and  that  of  others 
regarding  the  difficulties  to  be  encountered,  simply  lies  in  the 
fact  that  I  have  but  little  belief  in  Arabs  or  Africans  taking 
the  initiative,  and  therefore  feel  confident  that  a  certain  union 


'-Pk. 


l/^     \'} 


~**k'.       *+• 


CONDITIONS   OF  AFRICAN  TRAVEL.  477 

of  prudence  and  quick  resolve  will  carry  one  through.  The 
dangers  of  Massailand  did  not  frighten  me.  The  travellers  who 
tell  us  of  them — Thomson  and  Dr.  Fischer — never  as- 

1  1  ,       ,  Arabs  and 

sumed  a  resolute  attitude  towards  these  somewhat  im-  Africans  un- 
pudent  sons  of  the  wilderness,  and  therefore  could  not  he  *®p™*^^^®- 
a,ccepted  as  authorities  concerning  the  difficulties  of  this  march. 
In  reality,  these  dangers  are  in  nowise  so  formidable  as  people 
say  and  believe,  and  my  march  through  this  territory,  though  I 
had  only  about  sixty  or  seventy  men  altogether,  had  nothing  of 
the  conjurer  about  it,  though  not  without  its  difficulties,  and 
though  on  certain  days  our  situation  was,  to  some  extent,  grave. 
I  sincerely  hope  that  if  our  example  be  followed,  the  so-called 
'  Massai  dangers '  will  in  a  short  time  be  heard  of  no  „ 

°  .  Massai 

more.     At  any  rate,  there  can  be  no  question  of  my  dangers  ex- 
havmg   carelessly   risked   the   lives   entrusted   to   my 
keeping,  seeing  that  I  was  enabled  pretty  correctly  to  estimate 
■existing  dangers ;  and,  as  the  result  has  shown,  I  did  not  under- 
rate them. 

"3.  It  appears  to  me  that,  in  general,  a  host  of  prejudices 
■exist  concerning  African  travel,  which,  in  the  interest  of  opening 
out  this  quarter  of  the  world,  ought  to  be  set  aside  as  Africa  to  be 
•quickly  as  possible.  Foremost  among  these  fallacies  is  "p*''^'^  ""*■ 
the  idea  that  it  is  necessary  to  start  with  a  great  quantity  of 
articles  for  barter,  and  a  large  number  of  porters,  to  penetrate 
into  Central  Africa.  As  every  porter  consumes  monthly,  on  an 
average,  the  value  of  a  '  doti '  and  a  half  of  stuff,  it  can  soon 
be  calculated  in  what  space  of  time  he  will  have  eaten  up  the 
•equivalent  of  his  load.  If  it  should  be  thought  that  the  larger 
the  number  of  men  the  greater  the  capability  of  resistance,  I 
can  only  say  that,  in  this  respect,  everything  depends  upon 
•organisation,  and  that  a  small  force  is  more  easily  organised  than 
a  large  one.  The  Mgwagwana  proper  is  cowardly,  and  by  his 
bad  example  demoralises  the  better-disposed  elements  of  j^^^^^^^^.^ 
the  expedition.   We  have  proofs  of  this  in  the  Arab  expe-  of  expe- 

1       1  1  1.      i       ditions. 

■ditions,  thousands  of  men  strong,  who  have  been  beaten 

by  the  Massais.     The  English  expeditions  in  Eastern  Africa  that 

advanced  at  the  same  time  as  I  did,  though  they  counted  their 


478  NEW  LIGHT  OX  DARK  AFRICA. 

hundreds,  were  not,  I  am  convinced,  nearly  so  well  prepared  for 
fighting,  or  so  capable  of  resistance,  as  mine,  in  which  I  knew 
every  man,  and  in  which  all  were  animated  by  one  and  the 
Bribery  to  Same  spirit.  The  danger  of  being  too  well  supplied  with 
be  avoided,  articles  for  barter  is,  that  these  are  sometimes  used 
to  stave  off  fighting  by  paying  tribute,  which  only  lowers  the 
feeling  of  respect  for  the  white  race,  and  increases  the  simple 
arrogance  of  the  African.  I  shall  be  glad  if  a  comparison 
between  the  Emin  Pasha  Expedition  and  those  undertaken  by 
others  results  in  proving  that  I  have  never  been  guilty  of  this 
cardinal  fault.  The  result  has  also  shown,  that  our  expedition 
has  been  respected,  in  all  countries,  in  a  manner  becoming  the 
dignity  of  the  European  race.  Even  in  these  countries  our 
enemies  prefer  to  take  to  flight  at  our  approach,  as,  for  example,. 
,  ^    in  the  west  of  the  Nyanza  the  powerful  Arab,  Kimbulu,. 

A  resolute  -'  '^  '  _  _ ' 

front  to  be  who  has  oue  hundred  elephant-hunters,  fled,  with  all  his 
following,  whom  I  had  undertaken  to  drive  out  of  the 
country.  The  tribes  who  wish  to  remain  on  friendly  terms  with 
us  have  always  been  well  treated.  Without  exception,  we  never 
fought  save  when  we  were  called  upon  to  do  so  righteously,  in 
our  own  defence. 

"4.  In  this  way  our  expedition,  although  Emin  had  unfor- 
tunately been  previously  obliged  to  quit  his  country,  which  is 
ever  to  be  regretted,  has  always  been  able  to  work  in  the  spirit 
Use  of  the  ^^^^^  l^d  US  hither.  It  was  reserved  to  the  German 
German  Ex-Emin  Pasha   Expedition  to   explore  the   whole   Tana. 

pedition.  . 

territory,  and  Usoga  also.  We  were  enabled  to  conduct 
Muanga  and  his  party  back  to  Uganda,  and  thus  to  erect  in  the 
north  of  the  Nyanza  Lake  a  Christian  barrier  against  Islam ;  to 
attach  Uganda,  by  virtue  of  the  Congo  settlement  and  the  prin- 
Priucipies  ciple  of  the  suppression  of  the  slave  trade,  to  the  half- 
tianit^and  civilised  states  of  Africa,  such  as  Zanzibar,  and  to  clear 
freedom,  ^j^g  Western  coast  of  the  Victoria  Nyanza  from  Arab- 
influence.  This  was  mainly  the  object  kept  in  view  in  our 
movement  for  the  countries  of  the  Upper  Nile,  whereby  we  hoped 
to  further  the  culture  and  development  of  Central  Africa,  of 
which  we  justly  considered  Emin  Pasha  as  the  pioneer.     I  believe 


PROSPECTS   OF  FUTURE  EXPLORATION.  47& 

that  Europe  generally  will  be  inclined  greatly  to  underrate  the 
importance  of  this  Emin  Pasha  Expedition.     But  perhaps  the  far- 
sighted  will  appreciate  the  moral  influence  which  the  advance 
of  so  many  expeditions  for  the  rescue  of  one  remarkable  white 
man  must  exercise  over  the  whole  of  Central  Africa.     This  fact 
has  stamped  us  in  these  countries  as  a  superior  race,  and  this  is 
a  gain  for  all  time.     All  honour  to  Stanley,  to  whom  it 
was  reserved  to  conduct  Emin  Pasha  back  to  the  world  acMeve- 
of  the  white  race.*     But  we,  too,  have  been  allowed  to  ™^°  ^' 
help  to  establish  the  conviction  that  the  abandonment  of  the 
position  on  the  Upper  Nile  is  only  an  episode,  and  that  the  word 
'  Tutarudi'  ('We  shall  return ')  is  still  engraven  on  all 
hearts.     If  Europe   wishes   to  extend  this  conviction  to  be  main- 
over the  entire  north-eastern  part  of  this  portion  of  the  *^'^*  ' 
globe,  it  would  be  desirable  to  send  a  strong  expedition  through 
the  lands  of  the  Somalis  and  Gallas,  in  order  to.  impress  these 
stubborn  tribes  too   with  a  sense  of  our  superiority,    and    at 
length  to  avenge  the  murder  of  Von  der  Decken.     The  explora- 
tion of  the  entire  Juba  territory  would  be  the  geographical 
outcome  of  this  expedition,  which  is  really  demanded  in  our 
time.     Such  an  expedition,  although  undertaken  from  ^^^^  ^^  ^ 
quite  other  ethical  and  geographical  points  of  departure,  new  expe- 
would  naturally  take  up  the  views  and,  perhaps,  too,  the 
geographical  aims  of  the  Emin  Pasha   Expedition,   and   thus 
would  be  lifted  the  last  fold  of  the  veil  of  mystery  that  now 
hangs  over  Eastern  Africa. 

"5.  It  appears  to  me,  as  I  look  back  upon  our  own  under- 
takings, that  the  great  struggle  for  Eastern  Africa,  which  was 
carried  on  there  between  Europeans  and  Arabs,  has  been  decided 
in  our  favour.  The  Arab  rule  has  been  worsted  along  the  whole 
line.  This  is  due,  in  the  first  place,  to  the  action  of  the  German 
Government  by  means  of  Captain  ^Yissmann ;  but  Stanley, 
Count  Teleki,  and  ourselves  may  have  contributed  to  the  result. 
Stanley,  inasmuch  as  he  defeated  the  tribes  between  the  Congo 
and  Mwutan  Rzige,  as  well  as  the  ^Yanyero  and  Wanera ;  Teleki^ 

*  So  I  still  thought  on  April  13th,  1890. 


480  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

by  overthrowing  the  Wakikuju  and  Wasuka  ;  and  we,  by  de- 
monstrating the  superiority  of  European  arms  to  the  Wagalla, 

Wadsagga,  Wakikuju,  and  Massais,  not  to  mention 
already      smaller   tribes,    supporting    the    Christian    party    in 

Uganda,  and  breaking  Arab  influence  in  the  west  of 
the  lake,  have  worked  for  Christianity  in  Eastern  and  Central 
Africa.  Lastly,  all  these  undertakings  represent  one  great 
general  whole,  and  in  this  moral  connection  the  German  Emin 
Pasha  Expedition  must  be  included.  If  it  were  looked  upon  in 
this  light,  much  of  the  former  antagonism  against  this  enter- 
prise would  vanish,  and  it  would  be  allowed  that,  although 
apparently  the  enterprise  has  failed  in  its  object,  it  has  not 
laboured  in  vain  in  the  service  of  the  great  moral  ideas  which 
are  at  this  moment  struggling  for  realisation  in  Africa. 

"  I  have  the  honour  to  sign  myself,  with  unalterable  respect, 
the  honourable  committee's  most  devoted  servant, 

"  Gael  Petees. 

"  P.S. — I  hope  to  be  in  Zanzibar  by  the  end  of  June,  and 
to  bring  with  us  Monseigneur  Livinhac,  who  has  been  appointed 
Superior  of  the  Mission  at  Algiers." 

After  these  reports  had  been  finished,  and  I  had  written  a 
few  private  letters,  I  took  a  charming  evening  walk,  with  ' 
Monseigneur  Hirth,  through  the  plantations  of  the  Mission, 
which  proved  to  me  what  can  be  accomplished  in  this  country 
A  pros-  by  honest  persevering  work.  The  most  various  kinds 
gion^oV*  of  European  vegetables  were  growing  here.  A  great 
industry,  gtretch  of  land  had  been  cleared  and  planted  with 
bananas,  which  had  been  introduced  from  Uganda.  Everywhere 
willing  industry  and  the  blessed  fruits  of  work  ! 

We  were  still  absorbed  in  these  reflections,  when  suddenly 
a  noise  from  the  shore  attracted  our  attention,  and  we  were 
informed  of  the  approach  of  the  remainder  of  my  boats,  which 
had  not  come  up  on  the  previous  evening.  We  hastened  down 
to  the  shore,  and,  sure  enough,  there  we  could  count  more  than 
twenty  boats,  all  appearing  at  about  the  same  spot  from  behind 


COMFORTABLE  PROSPECTS   FOR    THE  EXPEDITION.       481 

the  islands  we  had  passed  the  daj-  hefore.  As  soon  as  they 
perceived  the  shore  they  fell  into  line,  and  went  throu^jh  some 
evolutions  and  manoeuvres  of  various  kinds.  They  Arrival  of 
then  ran  in,  and  I  was  quickly  surrounded  by  my  *®  ^°^*^- 
missing  men,  whom  I  had  not  seen  since  we  were  at  Bumbide. 
I  hastened  to  give  out  cloth  stuffs  among  them  the  same 
evening,  that  they  might  provide  themselves  abundantly  with 
food.     They  were  lodged  in  the  houses  of  the  Mission  station. 


j^t\mi"^ 


USUKUMA    WOJIAJJ    I'REPAEING    (JOEX. 

and  soon  a  cheeriiil  bustling  activity  reigned  amongst  the 
men,  who  were  now  convinced— what  they  had  hitherto  often 
doubted— that  they  should  succeed  in  getting  back  to  their 
own  country. 

On  April  14th  I  decided  to  remove,  with  some  of  my  men, 
to  Ukumbi,  which  lies  some  miles  south  of  Nyagesi.^  Herr  von 
Tiedemann  also  made  up  his  mind  to  go  there  for  a  few  Eemovai  to 
days,  and  preferred  to  proceed  by  boat.  As  the  Arabs 
at  Margo  had  not  yet  acknowledged  German  supremacy,  I  con- 
sidered   it    important    at    once    to    hoist    the   German    flag    m 

31 


482  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

Ukiimbi,  and,  by  treaty,  to  bring  the  country  under  German 
protection,  the  more  so  as  the  French  Mission  had  directly 
requested  me  to  do  so. 

On  the  morning  of  April  14th  Pere  Guyaut  had  taken  a 
photograph  of  our  camp  and  our  Askaris.  In  the  afternoon 
I  started,  with  Hussein  Fara  and  a  few  other  Somalis,  and  my 
private  servants,  and  got  to  Ukumbi  towards  the  evening. 
Heavy  rain  had  again  fallen,  and  everything  looked  fresh  and 
green.  It  is  true  that  the  water,  lying  in  the  road,  considerably 
impeded  our  progress,  but  a  tropical  landscape  always  gains  by 
the  watery  element.  The  peculiar  basaltic  pillars, 
through  granitic  formations,  which  I  had  already  noticed  from 
the  boats,  distinguished,  as  I  now  found,  all  this  part 
of  Usukuma.  The  road  continues  to  lead  past  such  formations, 
and  here  and  there  a  glimpse  is  to  be  obtained  of  Lake  Victoria 
on  the  right.  On  reaching  a  village  half  way  between  Nyagesi 
and  Ukumbi  I  was  met  by  a  donkey,  which  Monseigneur  Hirth, 
who  had  gone  over  that  morning,  had  kindly  sent  for  my  use, 
so  that  the  rest  of  my  journey  was  accomplished  in  a  very 
comfortable  manner.  Over  a  broad  marsh  we  went  slowly  up 
hill,  through  villages  intersected  by  broad  roads  between  green 
hedges,  surrounded  by  mtama  and  maize  fields.  Suddenly,  on 
our  left,  upon  the  slope  of  one  of  the  above-mentioned  hills,  the 
handsome  Mission  station  of  Ukumbi  came  in  view. 

The  sun  was    setting  as   we  approached,  and  the  bells  of 

the  church  were  ringing  for  vespers.     We  entered,  through  an 

•Welcome  h  ^'^'^hway,  into  a  square  court  surrounded  by  buildings. 

Monseig-     Monseigneur  Hirth  appeared  on  the  verandah,  and  ran 

down  the  steps  to  welcome  me. 

The  bells  rang  out  solemnly  through  the  twilight,  as 
Monseigneur  conducted  me  to  his  study.  Here  the  sight  of 
a,  writing  table,  with  a  bookshelf  above  it,  made  me  at  once 
aware,  that  I  was  in  a  spot  where  the  culture  and  mental 
industry  of  Europe  were  represented  in  the  heart  of  Africa. 


CHAPTER  XII. 

FROM  LAKE   VIOTORIA    TOWARDS 
HOME. 

■'  Bending  to  mighty 
Iron  laws,  eternal, 
Must  we  accomplish, 
One  and  all  among  us. 
The  circle  of  our  being." 

Goethe, 

THE  station  of  Xj'agesi  had,  at  the 
request  of  ^lous.  Lourdel,  been 
speciality    erected    for    the 
accommodation     of    AVa- 
taking 


,_^    -^  »         ucL-iimmuiiaiion       oj 


refuf^e    in    Ustikuma.      It    was    now    managed    from    Ukumlii. 
As  a  rule,  Pere  Guyaut  \Yeut  over  on  the  Saturday  to  hold  a 


48-i  ^^EW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

serA'ice  there  on  Sunda}-,  returning  to  the  station  on  Monday. 
During  the  weeks  of  our  stay  in  these  parts,  Pere  Guyaut 
The  Mission  remained,  with  one  of  the  Brethren,  at  Nyagesi,  await- 
its^oecV^  ing  the  arrival  of  Monseigneur  Livinhac.  Hitherto 
pants.  Monseigneur  Hirth  had  been  the  superior  of  Nyagesi 
and  Ukumbi,  but  he  had  just  then  been  appointed  head  of  the 
Catholic  Missions  round  Lake  Victoria  in  the  room  of  Monseig- 
neur Livinhac,  who  was  recalled  to  Europe.  Monseigneur 
Hirth  is  a  tall,  spare  man,  wearing  a  thin  beard  and  gold  spec- 
tacles. He  bears  the  stamp  of  a  German  savant,  and  is  deeply 
versed  in  the  dogmas  of  his  religion.  He  speaks  and  writes  good 
German,  though  his  pronunciation  betrays  a  strong  Alsatian 
accent.  Our  conversation  was  carried  on  alternately  in  German 
and  French,  and  many  an  evening  we  discussed  the  differences 
in  the  doctrine  of  our  several  churches. 

Soon  after  my  arrival  I  was  introduced  by  Monseigneur 
Hirth  to  Monseigneur  Hautecoeur,  Pere  Procureur  of  the  station, 
a  very  intelligent  and  interesting  little  man,  who  had 
Procureur  spent  loug  years  in  Unjanjembe,  and  was  able  to  give 
'me  much  important  infoi'mation  concerning  Arab  doings 
there.  Having  a  very  strong  sense  of  humour,  Monseigneur 
Hautecoeur  contributed  most  essentially  to  our  entertainment  at 
table.  He  manages  all  the  business  matters  of  the  station, 
and  is  skilful  in  all  manner  of  industries,  from  turning  and 
carpentering,  to  making  cartridges  and  repairing  guns.  I  used 
to  enjoy  walking  over  to  his  lodgings  of  an  afternoon,  and 
watching  him  at  his  work. 

Over  and  above  these  two,  there  was  a  serving  Brother  at 

Ukumbi,  who,  sad  to  say,  soon  after  my  arrival  was  attacked  by 

Labours  of  dysentery,  of  which  he  died  during  my  stay.     This  man 

the  serving  had  made  himself  very  valuable  to  the  station  by  lay- 
Brother.       .  ^  n  •  1  .   T      ,  J       J 

mg  out  a  garden,  m  which  he  had  cultivated  many 
European  vegetables,  and  fruit  from  the  coast,  oranges  amongst 
the  rest.  This  garden  was  below  the  buildings,  and  was 
watered  by  a  mountain  stream,  turned  from  its  course  for 
the  purpose. 

The  whole  settlement  had,  for  the  benefit  of  health,  been 


THE  CLIMATE   OF   USUKUMA.  435 

built  upon  a  height,  upon  the  eastern  side  of  the  very  interest- 
ing creek ;  but  even  this  fact  was  not  sufficient  to  protect  it 
against  fever  miasmas.     Unlike  Uganda,  the  Usukuma 
country  suffers  from  considerable  drought,  and,  as  I  was  llL^i. 
informed,  looks  quite  burnt  up  during  eight  months  of  ^'''''"""*' 
the  year.     This  drought  is  often  very  injurious  to  agriculture 


Wasukuma. 


and  thus  it  comes  that  the  inhabitants  have  mostly  employed 
their  energies  in  the  rearing  of  cattle.  I  was  told  that  during 
the  dry  season  the  beasts  are  driven  into  the  forests,  but  I  could 
not  quite  understand  how  the  people  contrived  to  feed  such 
myriads  of  cattle  the  whole  year  through.  When  I  saw  Usukuma, 
which  was  during  the  rainy  season,  the  whole  country  looked  like 
a  fresh,  verdant  meadow.  In  the  fields  maize  and  mtama  were 
blooming  and  ripening,  as  well  as  sweet  potatoes  and  flourishing 


486  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

bean  fields,  so  that  I  was  forcibly  reminded  of  our  marsh  lands 
in  Lower  Germany,  when  I  looked  across  these  plains, 
aspect  of  bordered  only  by  the  distinguishing  skittle-shaped  rocks 
mentioned  above.  The  inhabitants  of  this  country  also 
exhibit  the  characteristics  of  the  dAvellers  in  marshy  plains. 
They  are  heavy  and  sleepy,  but,  as  it  appears,  reliable  and  steady. 
On  the  whole,  we  may  regard  Usukuma  as  a  valuable  possession, 
as  the  Wasukuma,  beyond  a  doubt,  make  the  best  bearers,  and 
have  in  every  way  good  capabilities  for  work.  They  have  a 
great  predilection  for  establishing  relations  with  the  coast  and  the 
white  race,  and  will  unquestionably,  in  the  future,  count  amongst 
our  most  useful  subjects.  I  place  them  higher  in  value  even 
than  the  Wanjamwesi,  more  particularly  because  the  latter 
„   ^      ,.  have  for  centuries  been  under  Arab  influences,  to  which 

Good  quali- 
ties of  the  the  "Wasukuma  are   decidedly    averse.      These    people 

V^^fl.  R 11 K 1 1  TTl  fl. 

'soon  attached  themselves  to  me,  and  from  all  sides  came 
petitions  and  entreaties  to  give  them  a  German  flag  ;  petitions  I 
was  unable  to  grant,  for  the  sole  reason  that  I  had  no  more  flags 
in  my  possession. 

In  solemn  form  I  hoisted  our  flag  at  Ukumbi,  on  the  morn- 
ing of  April  16th,  thus  taking  possession,  for  Germany,  of  the 
Hoistin  ^o^th  side  of  Lake  Victoria.  Through  the  interven- 
the  German  tion  of  Monseigneur  Livinhac  I  had,  in  the  first  place, 
^^'  entered  into  a  treaty  with  the  Sultan  of  Ukumbi,  in 

which  he  recognises  German  sovereignty,  and  begs  for  the  flag. 
It  was  th&n  with  due  solemnity  hoisted  in  his  capital,  in  a  lofty 
position,  and  saluted  by  us  with  volleys  from  our  firearms.  It 
was  visible,  also,  to  all  the  boats  coming  from  the  north  into 
the  creek. 

The  Arabs  of  Margo,  as  I  learnt  from  Monseigneur  Hirth, 
had  fled  into  the  forests  on  hearing  of  our  approach,  taking  with 
Flight  of  them  large  quantities  of  ivory ;  and  the  opinion  was 
the  Arahs.  general  in  the  south  of  the  lake  that,  after  the  hoisting 
of  the  German  flag,  they  would  altogether  disappear  from  that 
region.  Their  wealth,  in  the  shape  of  ivory,  already  at  that 
time  roused  the  people  of  the  place  to  propose  plundering  expe- 
ditions against  them  ;  but  I  refused  all  offfers  of  this  kind,  as  I 


MR.   STOKES'f<    ESTABLISiniENT. 


487 


was  insufficiently  acquainted  Avith  the  country,  and,  in  view  of 
my  small  stock  of  ammunition,  was  obliged,  moreover,  to  avoid 
every  imprudent  step.  It  Avas  afterwards  reported  in  Eur(ipe 
that  the  Wasukuma  subsequently  set  to  work,   on   their   own 


account,  to  slaughter 
the  Arabs,  and  pro- 
bably took  possession 
of  their  ivory. 

The  day  alter  the  hoisting 
of   our   flag,    Herr  von    Tiedemann  v 

returned    to   Nyagesi,   as    the    accommo- 
dation   at   Ukumbi  was   rather    limited;    and 
now  began    a  few  exceptional  weeks  of  won-  ^ 
derfully  calm  existence  for  the  expedition,  which 
had   o-one   through    so  manv  adventures  ot    every 
kind  in  getting  here.     In  Ukumbi  there  was  an  esta- Mrjt.kes-s 
blishment  belon<fing  to  a  Mr.  Strikes,  which  comprised  ^ent  k. 
several  Wangwana    and    a  number   ol    ieniale   siaACs.^ 
Here  my  people  found  amusement   by  day  and  by  night,  and 
the    beer-jug  was   never    empty.      The    temper    ot    the    people 


488  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

was  one  of  great  self-complacence.  I  could  scarcely  refrain 
from  smiling,  when  I  saw  them  dressed  up  in  all  sorts  of 
tinsel  finery,  strutting,  with  their  heads  high  in  the  air, 
among  the  natives,  at  whom  they  scarcely  deigned  to 
glance ;  or  when,  lounging  by  the  pombe-pot  round  the  camp- 
fires,  they  related  to  the  horrified  listeners  stories  about  the 
Massais  and  Waganda.     They  now,  for  the  first  time 

Distribu-  .  °  -11 

tionof  during  the  expedition,  received  regular  poscho,  the 
pose  0.  Catholic  Mission  having  been  enabled  to  sell  me  a 
sufficient  quantity  of  stuff,  accepting  in  payment  a  cheque  on 
Zanzibar.  They  could  pay  for  their  own  food  ;  but,  in  the 
beginning,  they  still  followed  their  old  habit  of  simply  seizing 
upon  what  they  wanted,  without  taking  the  trouble  of  pur- 
chasing, and  were  intensely  surprised  when  I  responded  to  this 

action  on  their  part  by  an  energetic  application  of  my 
to  the        hippopotamus-hide  whip.     Only  by  degrees   did   they 

'  become  accustomed  to  respect,  in  the  Wasukuma,  German 
subjects  and  men,  like  themselves,  under  German  protection. 

The  course  of  each  day  in  Ukumbi  passed  very  quietly,  in 
idyllic  fashion  for  me.  I  occupied  a  comfortable  little  room,  in 
The  order  ^^i^^  I  made  a  practice  of  reading  or  writing  during 
of  the  day  the  morning.     I  rose  at  six  to  attend  the  roll-call  of 

■  my  men,  who  had  to  wait  for  me  drawn  up  in  rank  and 
file  in  front  of  the  verandah.  We  then  partook  of  breakfast  in 
the  refectory,  after  which  an  hour  was  spent  in  each  other's 
company  in  the  cool  verandah,  smoking  a  pipe  of  European 
tobacco.  Then  I  used  to  pay  a  visit  to  my  Somalis,  who  occu- 
pied a  tent  to  the  left  of  the  station.  Afterwards  I  wrote  reports 
or  read  until  twelve  o'clock,  when  the  bell  called  us  into  the 
luxuries  of  refectory  to  luncheon,  which  consisted  of  soup,  roast 
civUisedhfe.  jjQ^eat,  Vegetables,  bread,  butter,  and  cheese  ;  and  a  glass 
of  cognac  and  water  tended  to  promote  cheerfulness.  After 
luncheon,  another  pipe  was  smoked,  to  the  accompaniment  of  a 
cup  of  coffee.  Each  one  then  retired  to  his  own  room.  I  read, 
or  paid  a  visit  to  Monseigneur  Hautecceur.  Soon  after  four  I 
called  for  Monseigneur  Hirth  or  Monseigneur  Hautecceur,  to  take 
a  walk  in  the  neighbourhood.     We  explored  the  country  around. 


QUIET  LIFE  IN  UKUMBI.  489 

or  we  would  go  to  the  lake  to  catch  a  fish,  or  into  the  village  to 
buy  honey.  At  six  o'clock  came  vespers,  and  at  half-past  seven 
we  once  more  met  in  the  refectory  for  the  chief  meal  of  the  day, 
which  was  followed  by  long  conversations  in  the  room,  or,  if  the 
mosquitoes  were  not  too  dangerously  inclined,  in  the  verandah. 

It  will  be  allowed  that  such  a  mode  of  life  in  the  interior  of 
Africa  is  pleasant  enough,  and  some  surprise  may  be  felt  when 
I  relate  that  no  more  than  a  week  had  passed  before  I  Desire  to 
became  conscious  of  an  almost  irresistible  longing  to  **  *■* '""^'^• 
do  something,  no  matter  what — either  to  attack  the  Arabs  of 
Margo,  or  to  drive  back  the  hostile  inhabitants  from  the  other 
side  of  the  creek.  This  desire  for  action  had  been  too  highly 
strung  up,  to  be  rapidly  brought  down  to  the  level  of  the  quiet 
enjoyment  of  life.  Then  would  come  hours  when  the  mind, 
almost  exhausted,  like  an  electric  battery,  was  inclined  to  lose 
itself  in  dreamy  reflections  and  poetic  thought.  Every  effort  of 
will  subsided,  and  the  soul  became  quite  the  "  world-contem- 
plating eye  "  of  Schopenhauer.  The  great  problems  of  existence 
stood  forth  in  all  their  distinctness,  and,  as  in  earlier  years,  the 
mind  struggled  to  solve  them. 

Sometimes  I  also  took  part  in  the  Roman  Catholic  service. 
When  at  six  o'clock  the  bell  chimed  for  prayer,  the  longings  of 
childhood  crept  into  my  heart.  I  betook  myself  to  the  gervicV  in 
chapel,  which  was  illuminated  by  wax  lights  and  ^^^  "^^p^^- 
redolent  of  incense.  In  this  chapel  was  a  harmonium,  on 
which  Monseigneur  Hirth  was  accustomed  to  play  with  the 
touch  of  a  master  ;  and  when,  to  the  sound  of  this  instrument, 
the  children  sang  their  Latin  hymns  with  harmonious  voices, 
the  soul  was  touched  with  a  sweet  melancholy.  On  listening  for 
the  first  time  to  this  music  a  profound  feeling  of  sadness  and 
pity  for  myself  came  upon  me.  All  the  passionate  struggles 
and  combats  of  the  last  few  months  passed  in  review  before 
my  mind,  and  I  was  fain  to  cover  my  face  with  my  hands,  to 
repress  a  convulsive  sobbing. 

At  such  moments,  differences  of  doctrine  in  the  several 
creeds  vanish  from  the  mind.  "  Feeling  is  everything,  name  is 
but  sound  and  smoke;"  and  music,  which,  according  to  Schopen- 


490  NEW  LIGHT  OX  DARK  AFRICA. 

hauer,  is  the  direct  reflection  of  human  aspirations,  awakens 
sentiment,  even  in  a  higher  degree,  amidst  the  threatening 
surroundings  of  African  life,  than  it  does  in  the  concert  stalls 
of  Europe. 

Thus  the  days  went  by  in  a  dreamy  uniform  fashion.  Of 
INIonseigneur  Livinhac  we  heard  no  tidings.  The  rainy  season 
■Waiting  Avas  now  upon  us  in  all  its  force ;  torrents  of  rain 
s°e^ig^e«r  poured  daily  from  the  clouds,  mostly  accompanied  by 
Livinhac.  thuuder  and  lightning.  From  Usukumba,  as  well  as 
from  Usumbiro,  came  tidings  of  heavy  floods,  which,  it  was 
said,  rendered  the  roads  to  the  coast  impassable  for  the  time. 
My  men  fell  ill  one  after  another,  and  on  April  24th  Herr 
A'on  Tiedemann  himself  was  attacked  by  violent  fever.  On 
the  25th  I  lost  my  efficient  little  Musa  from  Dar-es-Salam, 
who,  after  Nogola's  death,  had  been  sole  leader  of  the  porters. 
He  had  gone  with  two  companions  from  Dar-es-Salam,  to  bathe 
in  an  inlet  of  the  Nyanza.  Hassani,  who,  by  the  way,  was 
Musa's  brother,  and  one  of  his  two  companions,  stand- 

Musa  de-  '  .      \  t  i 

vouredbyaing  on  the  shore,  suddenly  noticed  a  crocodile 
approaching  the  bathers.  Instantly  they  both  en- 
deavoured to  gain  the  shore  by  swimming,  which  Maniumku, 
the  second  of  Musa's  companions,  succeeded  in  doing,  but  before 
Mi^Sa  could  reach  the  land  the  crocodile  had  overtaken  him, 
and  seized  the  unfortunate  man  by  the  back  of  the  neck ; 
and,  before  he  could  utter  a  cry,  both  disappeared  together 
beneath  the  surface  of  the  water. 

We  were  just  sitting  at  dessert  after  our  dinner,  when  Hassani 
and  Maniumku  entered,  howling  lamentably,  with  the  tidings, 
"  Musa  has  been  devoured  by  a  crocodile  !  "  I  sprang  from  my 
seat,  put  on  my  helmet,  and  shouldered  my  gun,  hoping  at 
least  to  be  in  time  to  execute  vengeance  upon  the  crocodile  ; 
Ferocity  of  but  the  Creature  had  swum  with  its  prey  to  one  of  the 
toria^""  small  islands  in  the  creek,  and  was  no  more  to  be 
crocodiles,  gggjj  J  igamt  from  the  Fathers  that  the  crocodiles 
of  Lake  Victoria  are  particularly  dangerous.  They  overturn 
small  fishing  boats  to  seize  the  crews,  and  sometimes  even  attack 
people   standing  on  the  shore.     I  was   told  that  many  of  the 


MUSA'S   FATE; 


TTEMPTED   LIOX  IfUNT. 


491 


Wasukuma  lose  their  lives  in  this  wa)'.  I  reoretted  poor  Musa 
much,  and  forbade  my  men  to  bathe  any  nKjre  ;  liut  such  a 
prohibition  was  now  scarcely  necessary. 

As  the  news  from  Nyauesi  appeared  somewhat  gra\e,  I 
betook  myself  thither  on  April  27th,  to  call  on  Herr  von 
Tiedemann.  He  was  afraid,  on  the  afternoon  of  that  day,  that 
he  was  suffering  from  inflammati(jn  of  the  liver ;  a  supposition 
which  fortunately  proved  to  be  erroneous. 


;.>^-'v-ii[w^ 


uMBiS^ 


The  Chief  I'ortee  Musa  Killed  by  a  Crocodile. 


I  remained  at  Nj^agesi  on  the  28th  and  29tli,  where  we  one 
afternoon  went  out  for  a  general  lion  hunt,  in  which  Herr  \  on 
Tiedemann  was  also  able  to  take  part.  Every  ^^ift^'i'-^n  attempt 
noon  a  lion  had  carried  away  a  sheep  from  the  flock  at  uon 

.    .        hunting. 

belonging  to  the  Mission.      \ve  took   uj)    our  jjosition 
upon   a   height   in  the  vicinity  of  the  flock,  to  lie  in   wait  for 
him ;  but  the  impudent  fellow  must  have  scented  us,  for  that 
afternoon   he   carried  off  a  sheep  from  another  flock  that  wa^ 
grazing  just  behind  us.     We  heard  him  roaring  quite  close  to 


492  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

US,  when  my  servant  Mabruk  disturbed  him,  but  we  could  not 
get  within  range  of  him. 

I  returned  to  Ukumbi  on  April  30th,  with  my  mind  relieved 
concerning  Herr  von  Tiedemann's  health.  We  sat  up  late  into 
the  night,  as  I  had  taken  a  fancy  to  watch  for  the  Walpurgis 
The  "Wai- hour.*  Unable  to  sleep  any  longer  in  a  room,  on  that 
W^\  night  I  once  again  set  up  my  tent  in  the  yard  of  the 
watch.       Mission  station,  and  retired  to  it  at  midnight. 

But  this  long  watch  was  destined  to  have  its  consequences. 
On  May  1st,  after  breakfast,  I  was  suddenly  seized  with  a  slight 
shivering  fit,  and  at  once  felt  a  longing  ,to  go  to  bed.  An  hour 
afterwards  I  was  lying  in  a  high  fever,  and  it  proved  to  be  the 
real  marsh  fever,  or  malaria,  by  which  I  was  attacked.  The 
peculiarity  of  this  illness  is,  that  it  acts,  in  the  first  place,  on 
the  nervous  system,  and  paralyses  the  will.  The  patient  suffers 
greatly  from  depression  and  from  all  kinds  of  distressing 
hallucinations.     He  is  either  shivering  with  cold,  or  lies 

Dr.  Peters  ° 

attacked  by  groaning,  half  dead,  with  burning  heat.  In  this  state 
^^^^^'  he  gets  to  think  he  will  not  live  through  the  day.  I 
was  quite  convinced  I  should  die,  and  I  can  say  that  there  was 
something  exceedingly  consoling  to  me  in  the  thought  that  after 
all  my  anxieties  and  struggles  I  should  lie  at  rest  at  last  on  the 
shores  of  Lake  Victoria. 

But  Providence  had  decreed  it  otherwise.  Strong  doses  of 
tartar  emetic  relieved  the  system,  and  then  Pere  Hautecceur,  who 
The  Doctor's  had  taken  my  case  in  hand,  prescribed  regular  doses  of 
recovery,  quinine,  which  at  last  subdued  the  fever,  after  I  had 
.had  three  days  of  delirium.  But  what  havoc  this  attack  had 
made  of  my  bodily  frame  !  Only  three  days  before  I  was  brisk 
and  strong  as  in  Europe ;  now  I  had  become  emaciated  and 
weak  to  such  a  degree  that  I  could  hardly  stand  up  to  crawl  the 
twenty  paces  that  divided  the  Mission  house  from  my  tent. 
I  mention  this  to  show  what  the  malarious  fever  is  on  Lake 
Victoria. 

*  The  night  between  April  30th  and  May  1st  (in  some  calendars  the 
vigil  of  St.  Walpurgis  or  Walburga)  had  already  in  pagan  times  been  a  great 
festival.     See  the  "  Walpurgis-Nacht "  in  Goethe's  Faust. — Tr. 


PREPARATIONS  FOR   THE  FINAL   MARCH.  493 

Whilst  I  was  prostrated  with  fever,  the  Brother  of  the  Mission 
had  died,  and  had  been  buried.     On  Maj'  4th  m)"  attack  of  fever 
had   been  overcome,  and  on  the  5th  I  could  once  more  seat 
myself  in  my  arm-chair.     Meanwhile  the  report  con-  Herr  von 
cerning  Herr  von  Tiedemann  was  a  disquieting  one.  ^ann's 
He,  too,  was  pursued  by  hallucinations.     One  night  he  in^ieBB. 
had  alarmed  the  whole  Mission  station  by  firing  shots  from  his 
revolver  at  some  imaginary  foes.     Such  were  the  tidings  Pere 
Guyaut  brought  to  Ukumbi  on  May  6th. 

Only  one  course  was  left  for  me  to  take.     I  must  give  up 
waiting  any  longer  for  Monseigneur  Livinhac,  of  whom  we  had 
not  yet  heard  anything.     If  we  remained  in  this  region  of  fever, 
the  attacks  would  infalliblj'  recur,  and  in  the  end  prove 
fatal  to  us.     Away,  therefore,  from  Ukumbi,  however  to  make  a 

stiEirt 

weak  we  might  feel  ourselves, — away  to  other  regions  ! 
Change  of  climate  alone  could  cure  us. 

On  May  6th  I  wrote  to  Herr  von  Tiedemann  that  on  the 
8th  we  should  leave  for  the  coast.  On  the  7th  he  arrived  at 
Ukumbi,  where  I  had  meanwhile  made  every  preparation  for 
our  departure. 

I  had  engaged  twelve  new  porters,  and  had  bought  from  the 
Mission  sufficient  cloth  stuffs  to  supply  the  column  with  main- 
tenance until  we  should  reach  the  coast.  Besides  that,  stores  for 
I  had  laid  in  some  provisions  for  our  personal  use,  from  ^^^  ™*"^- 
stores  which  Dr.  Hans  Meier  had  sent  to  the  Lake  through 
Mr.  Stokes's  instrumentality.  I  took  with  me  eleven  bottles  of 
cognac  and  a  few  boxes  of  biscuits.  I  had  also  procured  two 
loads  of  rice. 

By  the  evening  of  May  7th,  we  were  so  far  recovered  as  to 
be  able  to  take  our  places  at  the  general  supper-table  in  the 
Mission.  I  shook  off  the  effects  of  the  fever  with  extraordinary 
rapidity,  and  on  the  morning  of  May  8th  was  already  quite  on 
my  legs  again.  Heavy  showers  of  rain  made  us  defer  our  depar- 
ture until  eleven  o'clock.  We  were  still  sitting  in  the  verandah 
in  front  of  my  room,  engaged  in  earnest  conversation  with 
Monseigneur  Hirth,  when  the  sky  cleared.  Then  I  gave  the 
order  to  sound  the  trumpet  for  the  start.     A  loud  burst   of 


494  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

cheering  from  all  our  men  proved  to  me  how  they,  too,  had  been 
longino;  for  the  hour  of  departure.    The  drum  was  beaten. 

TI16  st&>rt  00  -I 

from  Accompanied  by  Monseigneur  Hirth  and  Monseigneur 
Tjkumiji.  jjauteccEur,  I  placed  myself  at  the  head  of  the  column. 
We  left  the  courtyard  of  the  Mission  station,  turned  to  the  right, 
and  then  our  way  led  over  the  brow  of  the  heights  that  shut  in 
the  Mission  at  the  back,  in  a  southerly  direction,  parallel  with 
the  creek  of  the  Victoria  Lake. 

The  march  on  that  day  was  somewhat  toilsome,  but  we  kept 
up  our  courage  by  th-e  consciousness  of  being  on  the  road.  We 
March  to  had  repeatedly  to  cross  swampy  lakes  and  pools,  so  that 
Ndinga.  j^  ^g^g  nearly  six  o'clock  before  we  reached  Ndinga,  our 
camping-place  for  that  day.  A  great  popular  festival  was  in 
progress  at  Ndinga.  Dancing  and  singing  groups  passed  con- 
tinually across  the  open  space  by  the  village,  on  which  I  had 
given  orders  to  pitch  the  tents,  until  I  had  to  forbid  their 
noise. 

It  was  a  delicious  feeling,  after  the  rest  of  the  previous  weeks, 
to  feel  oneself  once  more  making  way  ;  and  in  joyous  mood  we  sat 
down  that  evening  together  in  my  tent,  the  first  occasion  on 
which  we  had  done  so  for  a  long  time.  Unhappily  our  enjoy- 
ment was  disturbed  after  supper,  for  Herr  von  Tiedemann  had 
a  fresh  attack  of  fever,  which  compelled  him  immediately  to 
retire  to  bed.  The  next  morning  early  we  pursued  our  journey, 
A  pleasant  P^^*  Well-kept,  clean  villages,  and  through  a  fertile 
day's  march.  a,nd  highly-cultivated  country.  The  contrast  between 
travelling  through  this  sphere  of  German  interests  and  through 
the  desert  steppes  in  the  north  made  itself  felt  in  a  striking 
manner.  I  was  in  the  habit  of  saying  that  we  danced  on  our 
way,  from  the  lake  to  the  coast,  like  ballet  girls.  Our  com- 
missariat was  accurately  regulated ;  we  had  guides  to  lead  us 
every  day  who  knew  the  capabilities  of  the  country  with  regard 
to  the  water  supply,  and  I  had  really  no  further  trouble,  except- 
inteuigent  ^^^  *^^*  °^  actual  marching.  Moreover,  at  Ukumbi, 
wang-wana  three  Wangwana,  who  were  in  the  service  of  Mr.  Stokes, 
attached  themselves  to  our  party,  under  the  direction 
of  Salim  and  Pangani.     These  men  knew  the  country  and  the 


? 


THE   WASUKUJIA   AND   THEIR   COUNTRY.  495 


people  well,  and  I  was  able,  from  that  time,  to  make  use  of 
them  in  regulating  my  relations  with  the  natives.  Besides 
this,  on  the  second  day  of  our  march  one  hundred  Wasukuma 
joined  my  expedition,  in  order  to  travel  to  the  coast  under  its 
protection.  These  people  had  herds  of  cattle  with  them,  which 
they  intended  to  sell  at  Bagamoyo. 

The  Wasukuma  are  a  people  fond  of  travel,  and  in  conse- 
quence of  the  great  wealth  of  the  land  in  cattle,  which  enables 
them  to  procure  from  the  coast  the  coveted  cotton  goods,  ProbaWefu- 
the  traffic  between  this  country  and  the  places  on  the  anot^f  the 
coast  will,  the  next  few  years,  be  increased  beyond  all  Wasukuma. 
calculation,  the  more  so  if,  by  the  establishment  of  a  steamer 
on  Lake  Victoria,  the  activity  of  the  trade  between  the  northern 
and  southern  shores  is  promoted,  which  will  enable  the  Waganda 
also  to  open  up  trade  directly  with  the  coast. 

After  heavy  rains,  the  country  of  Usukuma  has  very  much 
the  appearance  of  the  marshy  plains  of  Lower  Germany  and 
Holland.  It  is  as  flat  as  a  trencher,  completely  verdant,  and 
only  remarkable  for  the  conical  rocks  already  described. 
Among  these,  the  eye  rests  upon  mighty  herds  of  cattle,  to  be 
counted  by  many  thousands  of  head,  reminding  us  of  the  wealth 
of  the  Massais  in  this  particular.  From  these  numerous  cattle 
we  derived  a  great  advantage,  as  we  could  command  a  land  of 
large  supplies  of  milk,  which,  especially  in  the  form  of  pi^''*?' 
curds  and  whey,  furnished  a  refreshing  article  of  food.  I  was 
now  accustomed,  throughout  the  whole  march,  to  carry  a  great 
gourd  containing  buttermilk,  a  beverage  equally  nourishing 
and  refreshing,  which  soon  restored  my  bodily  strength,  that 
had  been  greatly  diminished  by  the  fever. 

During  the  first  days  of  our  march,  our  one  inconvenience 
arose  from  the  marshy  state  of  the  ground.  Fate  appeared  un- 
willing to  spare  our  expedition  any  of  the  difficulties  of  African 
travel.  In  the  north  we  had  been  obliged  to  struggle  on  amid 
dry  primeval  forests  and  bush  steppes  ;  now  we  became  Difficult 
acquainted  with  the  far  greater  disagreeables  of  stamp-  ^^^^  ^°^' 
ing  along  for  hours  through  water  or  mud,  risking  at  every  step 
the  loss  of  our  boots,  as  we  often  sank  up  to  our  knees  in  the 


496  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

morass,  while  ever^y  day  brought  with  it  the  danger  of  a  renewed 
attack  of  marsh  fever ;  for  these  swamps  are  the  most  prolific 
hotbeds  of  malaria. 

On  May  9th  we  encamped  in  the  precincts  of  a  very  rich 

village  called  Kabila,  which  is  surrounded  by  good  cultivation, 

and  especially  noted  for  its  enormous  herds  of  cattle.     A 

Encamp-  r  j  .  p  niT 

mentat  heavy  downpour  overtook  us  in  the  afternoon,  fiUmg 
us  with  gloomy  forebodings  with  regard  to  the  march 
for  the  following  day. 

On  that  day,  after  crossing  a  stream,  we  were  to  reach  the 
country  of  Nera  proper,  where  we  should  come  upon  Stanley's 
route.  "NVe  left  Kabila  early,  and  soon  found  ourselves  in  a 
horrible  quagmire,  through  which  we  could  manage  to  crawl 
with  dragging  footsteps,  in  the  slowest  of  time.  We  contrived 
to  reach  the  ford  of  a  tributary  that  emptied  itself  into  Lake 
stopped  by  Victoria,  but  every  attempt  to  cross  it  was  fruitless. 
a  river.  rpj^g  current  was  violent,  and  the  water  rose  higher  than 
the  men's  heads.  What  was  to  be  done  ?  The  guides  proposed 
that  we  should  return  to  Kabila.  This  I  declined  to  do.  As  I 
had  heard  that  this  river  was  formed  by  the  junction  of  two 
The  two  streams  higher  up,  I  decided  to  try  whether  it  would 
braneiies.  jjq^  ^g  possible  to  cross  these  separately,  one  after  the 
other.  So  we  went  pounding  slowly  along  towards  the  east,  and 
succeeded  in  finding,  in  the  stream  that  flowed  from  the  north- 
east, a  broad  part,  where  the  water  only  came  up  to  the  men's 
chests,  and  where  we  at  last  managed  to  cross.  Forward  now 
for  the  southern  branch !  But  every  effort  to  find  a  fording- 
place  here  was  unavailing  ;  and  as  the  sun  had  already  passed  the 
zenith,  I  had  to  make  up  my  mind,  willingly  or  unwillingly,  to 
look  out  for  a  spot  in  the  swampy  plain  where  it  would 
ment  by  be  possible  to  pitch  our  camp.  Such  a  spot  was  found 
below  one  of  the  stony  hills  characteristic  of  Usukuma, 
just  to  the  north  of  the  place  in  the  river  near  which  we  then 
were,  and  thither  I  led  our  whole  caravan.  "  The  water  here 
will  have  run  off  by  to-morrow  morning,"  said  one  of  our 
Ukumbi  guides,  "  unless  it  comes  on  to  rain  again." 

An  alteration  had  been  made  in  the  manner  of  living  in  our 


ORDER   OF  THE  DAY'S  MARCH.  497 

expedition,  inasmuch  as  I  had  brought  with  me  a  packet  of  wax 
lights  from  Ukumbi,  and  we  could  accordingly  make  ourselves 
comfortable  in  the  evening  in  our  tents.  One  candle  had 
certainly  to  last  us  for  four  evenings ;  but,  at  any  rate,  it  gave 
us  two  hours'  light  every  evening  ;  and  as  Herr  von  Tiedemann 
generally  lay  down  of  an  evening,  I  could  devote  myself  to 
reading  during  the  hours  after  supper,  whilst  enjoying  my  pipe. 
This  fact,  more  than  anything  else,  took  from  our  mode  of 
living  the  makeshift  or  journeyman  workman-like  appearance 
that  had  characterised  our  march  into  the  country. 

The  next  morning  we  returned  to  the  river,  and  behold !  the 
guide  had  been  right ;  the  waters  had  so  far  subsided  that  we 
were  able  to  overcome  this  troublesome  obstacle,  and  Fording 
though  we  had  an  hour's  wading  through  the  mud  for  ^"^^  stream, 
it,  we  reached  the  land  of  Nera,  and,  in  fact,  came  to  a  wealthy 
village  in  the  same. 

Before  leaving  Ukumbi,  I  had  ordered  two  donkeys  to  be  in 
waiting  here,  intending  thus  to  secure  an  agreeable  variety  in 
our  method  of  progress  for  Herr  von  Tiedemann  and  myself. 
These  donkeys  were  driven  up  in  the  afternoon,  and  although 
they  had  not  been  broken  in,  and  required  careful 
watching,  especially  at  the  beginning,  as  they  had  a  useful 
tendency  to  run  away  at  any  moment  into  the  thorny  °^  *^°' 
brushwood,  they  nevertheless  proved  exceedingly  useful  to  us 
on  the  march  as  far  as  Mpuapua.  The  following  was  now  my 
method  of  travelling.  In  the  morning  at  5.30  the  first  signal 
to  rise  was  given,  after  I  had  washed  and  dressed  myself.  The 
men  had  at  once  to  go  to  their  loads,  and  especially  to  the  tents, 
which  were  struck  in  a  moment.  Two  minutes  later  the  second 
trumpet  sounded,  whilst  we,  generally  standing  about  the 
kitchen,  consumed  some  hot  coffee,  porridge,  and,  since  our 
departure  from  Ukumbi,  a  few  biscuits,  so  long  as  they  lasted. 
Some  two  minutes  more  and  the  third  signal  was  given,  a  mom- 
the  drums  beat,  and  we  started  on  our  journey,  pns's march. 
marching  in  front  with  the  guides  and  our  flag,  whilst  my 
column  quickly  fell  into  order  behind  me.  I  usually  marched 
on  for  two  hours,  then,  at  about  eight  o'clock,  the  donkey  was 

32 


498  XEW  LIGHT  OX  DARK  AFRICA. 

brought,  and  I  rode  on  it  for  about  another  hour.  From  nine 
to  eleven  I  marched  again  on  foot,  and  then  made  a  halt  of  a 
quarter  of  an  hour  for  breakfast.  This  meal  consisted  regularly 
of  cold  meat,  with  usually  the  addition  of  porridge.  Thereupon 
we  went  on  again  till  noon,  or  past  noon,  according  to  the 
distance  of  our  place  of  encampment.  If  it  was  necessary  to 
march  until  the  afternoon,  I  made  a  halt  between  twelve  and 
one  o'clock,  and,  as  a  rule,  I  had  cocoa  or  tea  made  for  Herr 
von  Tiedemann  and  myself ;  but,  on  these  occasions,  I  allowed 
no  previous  halt.  The  last  stage  of  the  journey  I  generally  rode 
on  the  donkey. 

In  this  way  we  covered  from  nine  to  eighteen  miles  a  day. 
The  average  on  our  return  journey  was  daily  about  twelve 
miles.  Here  it  was,  in  Nera,  that  Salim  and  his  companions 
joined  us,  and  under  their  guidance  we,  on  the  following  morn- 
ing, pursued  our  way  southwards,  further  into  the  land.  Here 
The  Nera  in  Nera  Stanley  had  been  compelled  to  fight,  six 
country,  j^gnths  previously.  I  consider  that  Stanley,  in  the 
accounts  of  his  travels,  draws  far  too  threatening  a  picture  of 
his  position  in  Nera.  The  people  of  this  country  have  always 
had  a  tendency  to  be  insolent  in  their  behaviour  to  all  caravans ; 
but  when,  like  Stanley,  a  man  has  the  command  of  a  thousand 
men  and  a  Maxim  gun,  this  insolence  is  no  more  than  that  of 
a  fly  annoying  an  elephant.  In  all  these  countries  there  pre- 
vails what  I  may  call  the  vice  of  demanding  tribute  from 
,  ,  travellers,  an  evil  custom,  which  is  all  the  more  to  be 

Payment  of  '  p  •  i 

tribute  a  Condemned  as  the  native  chiefs  do  nothing  whatever, 
either  in  the  way  of  maintaining  the  roads  or  of 
rendering  them  safe.  Nevertheless,  all  travellers,  Mr.  Stanley 
at  their  head,  have  consented  to  pay  this  tribute.  I  always 
refused  on  principle  to  do  so,  and  more  decidedly  than  ever  on 
our  return  journey,  because  we  were  now  marching  in  German 
territory,  and  it  would  have  been  reversing  the  natural  order  of 
things  for  the  masters  of  the  country  to  pay  tribute  to  their 
subjects.  This  proceeding  of  mine  one  day  led  to  a  slight 
skirmish  with  the  most  southern  inhabitants  of  the  land,  the 
Wasekke.     These  people  employ  the  tactics,  if  I  may  so  call 


DIFFICULTIES    WITH  THE   WASEKKE. 


499 


them,  of  shrieking  and  howling  at  caravans,  in  order  to  intimi- 
date them.     As  I  learned  from  my  servant  Selek,  a 

,         ■  /-I  •  iflCtlCB  01 

native  of  the  country,  it  is  by  no  means  the  fashion  the 
with  them  to  kill  people,  but  they  only  do  this  as  a 
pretence,  and  generally  cause  the  bearers  to  drop  their  loads, 


Animal  Life  in  the  Deseet. 

which  then  become  the  welcome 
prey  of  the  natives.  "When  they 
Endeavoured  thus  to  intimidate  our 
expedition,  they  certainly  tried  it  on 
with  the  wrong  people.  We  fired  in 
among  them,  and  four  of  them  had 
to  pay  for  their  folly  with  their  lives. 
I  laid  three  of  them  low,  and  Herr 
von  Tiedemann  one.  In  two  minutes 
the  whole  body  of  them  had  disap- 
peared. I  suppose  that  to  Stanley's 
fancy  the  dangers  of  such  a  position 
were  more  vivid  than  to  my  brain  of  Lower  Saxony,  but  this 
kind  of  description  of  travels  has  the  disadvantage  of  awaken- 
ing in  those  who  come  after  a  timid  frame  of  mind,  which 
causes   them   to   sixa   way   to   the   unjustifiable   and  The  African 

.  ,r  •         A    '       character. 

impudent  demands  of  the  natives  more  than  is  advis- 
able in  the  interests  of  the   opening  out  of  these   countries. 


"•M 


500  XEW  LIGHT  OX  DARK  AFRICA. 

Truth  to  say,  from  a  warlike  point  of  view,  the  Africans  are  not 
greatl}'  to  be  feared,  least  of  all  the  Bantu  tribes  in  the  territory 
of  the  German  Protectorate  and  the  rascally  Wangwana  on  the 
coast.  The  only  people  who  may  inspire  any  fear  in  this 
respect  are  the  Massais  of  the  tablelands. 

From  May  12th  onward  I  found  myself  upon  the  route 
which  Stanley  and  Emin  Pasha  had  taken.  On  the  13th  we 
crossed  the  Wami,  one  of  the  tributaries  of  Lake  Victoria,  at 
Crossing  Muamara,  and  on  the  14th  we  reached  the  country 
the  Wami.  ^f  Sekke,  where  we  had  to  fight  a  little  in  the  manner 
above  described  on  the  next  morning.  In  entering  Sekke  we 
had  reached  the  last  border  country  of  Usukuma,  and  we  entered 
Unjamwesi  territory  after  a  four  hours'  march  through  a  bush 
region  wonderfully  rich  in  game  animals,  amongst  which  I 
was  especially  struck  by  the  numbers  of  giraffes  and  zebras. 
The  Wasekke  pursued  us  for  a  short  distance  into  the  primeval 
forest,  but  had  carefully  kept  beyond  the  range  of  our 
of  the  guns.  At  length  they  gave  up  the  vain  pursuit,  and, 
as  in  former  days,  we  contmued  our  way  alone  and 
unaccosted  through  the  wilds.  At  one  o'clock  we  reached  the 
first  Unjamwesi  kraal,  Sijanga,  where  we  were  received  by 
the  inhabitants  with  great  heartiness. 

In  this  country  Mr.  Stokes,  formerly  a  member  of  the 
English  Mission  at  Usumbiko,  carries  on  his  business.  He  has 
his  principal  settlement  at  Usongo,  frbm  which  place 
business  he  chiefly  trades  to  the  Victoria  Nyanza.  I  have 
^"  ^'  already  mentioned  that  I  met  his  agents  in  Uganda 
and  in  the  west  of  the  lake,  where  they  were  purchasing  ivory. 
Stokes,  like  a  shrewd  Irishman,  has  hit  upon  just  the  right 
thing  in  pushing  the  buying-up  trade  in  the  interior,  which  is, 
indeed,  the  one  branch  in  which  money  is  still  to  be  made. 
There  is  no  room  left  for  large  profits  in  the  purchasing  trade 
on  the  coast,  where  the  European  has  to  compete  with  the 
Indians,  and  where  the  prices  depend  entirely  upon  the  markets 
of  Europe.  For  this  reason,  from  the  very  beginning,  I  advo- 
cated the  view  that  the  German  East  African  Company  should 
establish  the   centre   of  its  commercial    undertakings   in   the 


niPORTANT  ROUTES  FOR   CARAVAN  TRADE.  501 

interior,  where  ivory  has  still  no  fixed  rate  of  sale,  so  that 
practically  its  price  on  the  coast  is  regulated  only  by  the 
expenses  of  transport.  This  course  the  Company  has  in  these 
last  days  adopted,  and  it  is  to  be  expected  that  it  will 

1        i_  •  1  •■111  Ideas  of 

not  only  be  a  gainer,  but  that  it  will  also  contribute  trade  w. 
in  a  much  greater  degree  to  the  opening  lip  and  ™°" 
civilising  the  interior  of  Africa,  than  if  it  had  confined  itself  to 
erecting  factories  at  different  places  on  the  coast.  The  British 
East  African  Company,  too,  naturally  started  with  this  idea 
from  the  beginning.  The  first  thing  that  William  Mackinnon 
did  was  to  erect  English  stations  along  the  course  of  the  Tana 
upward,  at  Miansini  on  the  Naiwascha  Lake,  and  at  Kwasundu 
on  the  Victoria  Nyanza.  Through  Mr.  Stokes's  establishment, 
which  is  situated  about  four  or  five  days'  journey  from  Tabor  a, 
Usongo  has  become,  in  reality,  the  second  commercial  and 
political  centre  of  Unjamwesi,  and,  as  such,  stands  in  a  certain 
contrast  to  Tabora. 

The  result  of  all  this  has  been  that  the  traffic  from  Lake 
Victoria  to  the  coast  has  become  accustomed  to  make  the 
circuit  over  Usongo  on  the  "so-called  Ndjia  Stokisi.  ^^^^  ^^^^^^ 
As  Stokes  had   to   keep  up   caravan   communications  of  caravan 

trade 

from  Usongo  to  Lake  Victoria,  and,  on  the  other  hand, 
sent  his  wares  from  Usongo  to  the  coast,  other  caravans  also 
followed  this  same  route,  so,  amongst  others,  Stanley  and  his 
expedition.     A  glance  at  the  map,  however,  will  show  that  this 
route  is  a  very  circuitous  one.     Many  a  morning  I  experienced 
a  certain  feeling  of  annoyance  at  the  thought  that  we  were 
moving  in  a  south-south-westerly  direction,  instead  of  proceed- 
ing towards  the  south-east,  where  lay  the  goal  of  our  march. 
Monseigneur  Livinhac  had,  already  in  Uganda,  sug- q^^^^^^^  ^p 
gested  to  me  the  idea  whether,  in  the  interests  of  the  ^^^^llf^^^^ 
trade  between  the  coast  and  Lake  Victoria,  I  should 
not  strive  to  open  up  a  direct  way  from  Ukumbi,  or  even  from 
Speke's  Gulf  to  Bagamoyo.     I  decided  to  act  upon  this  sugges- 
tion, at  least  in  part,  and  already  in  Sijanga  made  up  my  mind 
not  to  take  the  circuitous  route  through  Unjamwesi,  but  to  make 
my  way  straight  towards  Ugogo,  and  thus  to  cross  the  Wembaere 


50'2  XEW  LIGHT   ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

Steppe  in  a  diagonal  line.  Salim  tried,  indeed,  to  dissuade  me 
from  this  intention  by  calling  my  attention  to  the  dangers  to 
be  encountered  at  the  hands  of  the  Massais,  which  had  been  the 
cause  of  Stanley's  taking  the  circuitous  route  through  Unjamwesi. 
I  replied:  "We  know  the  Massais,  and  are  not  afraid  of  them. 
Let  those  who  fear  the  Massais  march  to  Ugogo  through 
Unjamwesi.  I  shall  avail  myself  of  the  nearest  road  thither, 
and  must,  therefore,   procure    guides    through    the    Wembaere 

steppe." 

Unfortunately  I  was  unable  immediately  to  carry  out  this 

intention.     At  Sijanga  I  had  pitched  my  tent  in  the  middle 

of  the   village.     In   the  afternoon,  on  stepping  forth 

Beturn  of  .  _  .       -^  i     ^i    n    i 

theukum-  from  my  tent  into  the  open  air,  i  was  startled  by  a 
bi  fever,  ^j^gj^^  attack  of  giddiness.  I  went  back  immediately, 
sat  down  in  my  chair,  and  took  a  strong  dose  of  quinine.  In 
spite  of  this,  my  Ukumbi  fever  returned  in  the  night,  just  one 
fortnight  after  the  first  attack.  In  consequence,  I  was  under 
the  necessity  of  making  only  short  marches  during  the  next 
few  days,  pitching  our  camp  only  about  five  miles  further  south 
each  day.  On  the  16th  we  encamped  at  Lindilindi,  on  the 
1 7th  at  Sai,  and  it  was  not  till  May  1 8th  that,  when  my  fever 
had  altogether  subsided,  I  was  able  to  push  forward  in  a  long 
day's  march,  in  an  easterly  direction,  to  Busiba. 

Busiba  is  the  furthest  Bantu  settlement  in  the  Massai  wilder- 
ness. Here  reigns  that  Sultan  Keletesa  whom  I  had  seen  in 
Bagamoyo  a  year  previously.  The  Wasiba  people  have 
ment  of  Constantly  to  defend  themselves  against  the  rapacious 
Massai  tribes.  A  warlike  spirit  has,  in  consequence, 
been  developed  among  them. 

I  was  conducted  to  Sultan  Keletesa  by  a  guide  who  had  just 
returned  from  the  coast.  He  was  the  very  ideal  of  an  Usukuma 
A  dandy  of  dandy.  The  young  gentleman  sported  European  trousers 
Usukuma.  ^nd  a  European  shirt  ;  his  head,  that  he  waved  in  an 
impressive  way,  was  protected  by  a  European  tropical  helmet 
from  the  rays  of  the  sun,  so  dangerous  to  finely-organised  brains. 
But  this  was  not  enough  for  our  friend.  As  he  had  seen  it  done 
in  Bagamoyo,  he  used,  when  the  sun  mounted  higher,  towards 


nrii   DAXDY   I'srKr.UA    GriDE. 


503 


eight  o'clock,  to  put  up  an  umbrella  ;  and  for  the  protection  of 
his  delicate  hands  he  would  draw  on  a  pair  of  woollen  gloves, 
No.  13.  He  looked  down  with  an  eye  of  pity  upon  our  dilapi- 
dated condition,  and  received  with  dignified  gravity  the  well- 
deserved  homage  offered  by  his  compatriots,  especially  by 
those  of  the  lemale  sex. 

Keletesa  had  no  sooner 
heard  of  my  arrival,  than 
he  hoisted  in  his  capital  the 
German  flag  he  had  brought 
from     Baijamoyo,  ^  ,  .     , 

^  •      '  Keletesa  s 

and     iireseutly     he  cordial 

behaviour. 

appeared  in  person 
to  bid  us  a  hearty  welcome. 
He  also  showed  me  a  letter 
from  Bagamoyo,  signed  liy 
Captain  Richelmann, — the 
first  (ierman  document  I 
had  set  eyes  on  for  a  whole 
year. 

I  pitched  my  tent  under 
the  shade  of  a  widespreading 
tree,  and  mj^  people  quartered 
themselves  in  the  houses  of 
the  Wasiba,  which  were  hos- 
pitably placed  at  our  dis- 
posal. Mirth  and  dancing 
were  the  order  of  the  day 
in  the  kraals,  and  Keletesa 
held  two  long  conferences 
with   me.      I   questioned  him  as  follows  : — 

"  When  you  go  from  here  to  Bagamoyo  which  road  do  you 

generally  take  ?  "  Particulars 

"  I    go    throuiih    the  Wembaere    steppe    in    seven  for  the 
days    to    Usure,    and    then    from  Usure    to    Muhalala 
and  Ugogo,  likewise  in   seven   days. ' 

"Is  water  to  be  found  for  a  caravan  in  the  Wembaere  steppe  ?" 


An  Usukujia  Dakdy. 


.304  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

"  Plenty  of  water  is  to  be  found  there  now.  When  the  river 
beds  are  dry  you  have  only  to  dig  in  the  sand,  and  you  will  find 
water  below." 

"  Will  you  give  me  guides  to  take  me  through  the  steppe  ?  " 

"  I  cannot  provide  you  with  guides,  as  they  could  not  return 
alone.  The  road  leads  all  the  way  close  along  the  Massai 
country,  and  you  must  keep  a  good  watch  that  they  do  not 
attack  your  expedition.  If  you  want  guides,  some  may  accom- 
pany you  as  far  as  Mpuapua,  and  wait  there  till  your  expedition 
returns  here  ;  but  you  cannot  miss  the  way  if  you  always  follow 
the  traces  left  by  me  and  my  people.  Each  day  you  will  also 
find  a  camping-place  I  have  used,  where  your  people  may  sleep. 
There  is  only  one  way  through  the  Wembaere  steppe." 

"  Then  I  shall  find  water  each  day  ?  " 

"  Every  day  much  water,"  he  replied ;  "  but  you  ought  to 
stay  here  a  few  days,  and  provide  yourself  with  food,  for  you  will 
find  nothing  to  eat  in  the  desert." 

"  Ah,  I  need  not  stay  here  some  days  for  that  purpose,"  I 
answered.  "  My  people  have  sufficient  poscho  to  last  them  as 
far  as  Mpuapua." 

I  then  summoned  Musehe,  the  head  man  of  the  porters,  and 
Hussein,  and  ordered  them  to  tell  the  people  that  each  man  must 
buy  food  for  himself  for  seven  days,  as  we  were  going  to  cross 
the  Wembaere  steppe. 

We  started  early  on  the  following  morning.  At  first  our  way 
led  us  past  a  few  settlements.  To  the  left  the  white  steppe  lay 
,      .      .  stretched  out  in  immeasurable  distance  before  us  in  the 

A  region  of 

thicket  and  clear  Sunlight.  When  we  had  left  the  last  settlement  of 
the  Wasiba  behind  us,  we  entered  a  remarkably  barren 
country,  a  grey  and  dingy  region  of  thickets,  with  dried-up  trees 
everywhere.  At  each  step  we  took  a  sandy  dust  cloud  whirled  up, 
enveloping  the  whole  column.  Thus  we  toiled  along  in  a  south- 
easterly direction  until  past  noon.  Suddenly  a  river  came  in 
The  river  view.  "  That  is  the  river  Sanguke,"  said  Salim  ;  "  it 
sanguke.  flg^g  ^q  ^]^g  Manouga,  by  which  we  shall  sleep  to- 
morrow." 

As  we  had  not  had  a  rest  the  whole  morning,  I  decided  to 


THE   WE2IBAERE  REGION ;— RICH  IN  GAME.  505 

make  a  short  halt  here,  and  then  to  go  on  in  the  afternoon  to 
Keletesa's  first  camping-place. 

A  march  of  this  kind  through  barren  steppes  has  a  depress- 
ing effect  on  the  mind ;  and  it  was  in  a  somewhat  mournful 
mood  that  I  threw  myself  down  on  the  river's  bank,  to  await 
the  arrival  of  my  colu 

Herr   von   Tiedemann   had   remained  a  long  way  behind. 
When  he  came  up  he  informed  me,  very  sorrowfully,  that  he  was 
once  more  suffering  from  dysentery,  and  that  it  would  Herr  von 
be  impossible  for  him  to  march  further  that  day.     So  I  "^l^-^  m. 
set  myself  to  the  task  of  seeking  for  a  camping-ground  "^^^s- 
in    the   neighbourhood.      This    was   difficult    enough,    as    the 
ground  near  the  water  was  slimy,  and  manifestly  a  fever  trap, 
whilst  stiff  and  thorny  brushwood  cut  us  off  from  the  steppe. 

At  last,  about  twenty  yards  northward  from  the  watercourse, 
I  found  a  spot  that  was  somewhat  more  open,  and  had  it  cleared 
by  the  axe.  The  Sanguke  and  the  Manonga  already  belong  to 
the  water  feeders  of  the  Wembaere.  Day  by  day  we  crossing  the 
now  encamped  near  some  tributary  of  this  river,  and  'Wembaere. 
crossed  the  river  itself  a  few  days  later.  I  was  unable  to  dis- 
cover whither  it  flowed.  Salim  declared  that  it  belonged,  after 
all,  to  the  Kufidschi  system ;  a  theory  which,  however,  I  con- 
sider entirely  unwarranted.  It  appears  to  find  its  way  north- 
eastward into  the  Wembaere  steppe,  and  perhaps  forms  the 
upper  course  of  one  of  the  tributaries  of  Lake  Victoria,  flowing 
into  Speke's  Bay. 

In  this  'steppe  we  passed  a  sufficiently  melancholy  afternoon. 
By  making  use  of  his  bedstead,  I  had  a  sort  of  litter  constructed 
for  Herr  von  Tiedemann,  on  which  he  could  be  carried  on  our 
marches  by  a  few  Wasukuma  porters.  For  any  one  suffering 
from  dysentery,  marching  should  by  all  means  be  avoided. 

Thus  we  pursued  our  journey  next  day  in  a  south-easterly 
direction.     The  aspect  of  the  country  underwent,  in  so  far,  a 
favourable   change,  that  the  foliage  had  a  somewhat  ^  ^^^^^ 
fresher  appearance,  and  tracks  of  game  animals  were  rfgame 
visible  here  and  there.     Many  ostriches,  in  particular, 
showed  themselves  in  the  desert,  but  none  came  within  range 


506  XEW  LIGHT   ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

of  our  guns.  The  porters  Avho  were  carrying  Herr  von  Tiede- 
mann  remained  far  behind,  so  that  I  began  to  feel  anxious  on 
his  account,  and  sent  back  men  to  look  after  him.  However, 
about  an  hour  after  m_y  arrival  at  the  camp  at  Manonga,  which 
I  reached  at  two  o'clock,  Herr  von  Tiedemann  came  in.  He 
Travelling-  Complained  that  the  stretcher,  which  exposed  him  to 
m  a  litter,  ^j^g  burning  sun  and  to  the  risk  of  being  thrown  down 
at  any  moment,  had  rendered  the  march  altogether  intolerable 
to  him.  Presumably  it  was  to  the  heat  of  the  sun  that  we  had 
to  ascribe  an  alarming  attack  of  palpitation  of  the  heart  by 
which  Herr  von  Tiedemann  was  seized  that  afternoon,  which 
filled  me  with  dismal  apprehension.  But  on  the  following 
morning  he  felt  much  better,  and  was  once  more  able  to 
march. 

On  our  horizon  a  sharply-defined  mountain  land  now  showed 
itself,  which  Salim,  in  reply  to  my  inquiry,  designated  as  Iramba. 
„    ^         Towards  the  left  the  eye  wandered  over  a  barren  tract 

The  true  -^ 

Wembaere  of  desert  land,  studded  here  and  there  with  bush — the 
real  Wembaere  steppe,  which  leads  into  the  land  of  the 
Massais.  At  intervals  rose  a  small  group  of  high  trees,  under 
whose  shade  a  fresher  flora  was  able  to  develop  itself.  Here 
great  herds  of  giraffes  and  zebras  were  grazing,  but  I  was  never 
able  to  knock  over  one  of  them.  Our  march  now  always  lasted 
until  after  midday,  as  we  were  compelled,  on  account  of  the 
necessity  for  water,  to  keep  scrupulously  to  Keletesa's  camping- 
March  places.  My  people  generally  found  there  the  small 
through  the  straw  huts  of  the  ^yasiba,  in  which  they  established 

wilderness,      ,  ,  V.     i- 

themselves,  and  we  could  always  rely  upon  finding  water 
in  the  vicinity.  On  the  whole,  this  renewed  march  through  the 
wilderness  had  great  attractions  for  me  after  the  long  stay  in  a 
civilised  country  on  the  shores  of  Lake  Victoria.  The  recollec- 
tion of  my  forward  march  along  the  upper  course  of  the  Tana 
arose  in  my  mind,  and  my  heart  could  once  more  hold  quiet 
communion  with  itself. 

Perhaps  an  expedition  of  this  kind  through  Africa  offers 
more  opportunities  than  are  found  elsewhere  for  thought  and 
quiet  reflection.     A  man  is  alone  almost  the  whole  day,  the  din 


THE  END   OF  A   LONG   2IARCH.  507 

and  turmoil  of  the  world  are  far  off,  and  only  the  great  impres- 
sions of  pure  and  unsophisticated  nature  work  upon  the  fancy. 
Sedately,  and  free  from  the  feverish  strife  of  Europe,  Thoughts 
existence  flows  onwards,  and  the  mind  is  necessarily  goiit^je  ^f 
raised  to  the  contemplation  of  the  great  and  the  eternal,  'i^tii'^e- 
Thus  life  here  gains  in  mental  depth  and  purity  of  aspiration, 
and  in  the  midst  of  European  ciAdlisation  the  fact  of  heing  able 
to  look  back  upon  these  weeks  lends  to  this  memory  something 
of  the  longing  desire  for  the  purity  and  innocence  of  Paradise. 
In  the  throes  of  the  grasping  strife  and  struggles  of  civilisation 
the  mind  longs  for  the  grand  impressions  and  feelings  of  the 
wilderness,  where  the  Creator  Himself  appears  to  come  nearer  to 
us  in  His  works,  and  eternity  seems  to  speak  to  us  in  its  own 
mighty  language. 

May  23rd  saw  the  end  of  our  march  through  the  steppe. 
This  day  was  one  of  the  most  disagreeable  I  experienced 
throughout  our  entire  expedition.  In  the  morning  we  pro- 
ceeded in  a  southerly  direction,  always  keeping  in  view  the 
abrupt  blue  slope  of  the  Iramba  plateau,  illumined  by  the  clear 
morning  sunlight.  Suddenly  a  surface  of  a  bright  green  colour 
appeared  before  us,  which  I  was  inclined  to  take  for  a  ^  ^^^^^ 
beautiful  meadow.     But  on  this  occasion  I  fared  like  and  dismal 

/-i  1       •!->       1         J?  swamp. 

the  grenadiers  of  Frederick  the  Great  at  the  mttie  oi 
Prague.  I  was  soon  convinced  that  the  supposed  meadow  was 
nothing  but  an  infernal  swamp.  At  first  I  tried  to  march 
round  it,  but  in  half  an  hour's  time  I  found  that  it  stretched 
out  before  us  in  apparently  endless  width,  and  that  we  must  of 
necessity  wade  through  it.  So  now  for  it.  From  half-past 
nine  in  the  morning  until  past  midday  we  waded,  always  up 
to  the  hips,  sometimes  to  the  waist,  in  water,  through  rushy 
ground  and  clinging  slime.  From  tune  to  time  I  was  obliged 
to  call  some  of  my  men,  as  my  boots  were  actually  sticking  in 
the  slime.  With  enormous  exertion  we  at  last  reached  an 
elevated  place  in  the  middle  of  the  swamp,  where  we  were  able 
to  rest  for  a  short  period.  Then  the  business  began  a  haven  of 
again,  until  at  last  the  cause  of  this  marsh  became  ''^'*- 
apparent ;  it  arose  from  the  swelling  of  the  Wembaere  river, 


o08  XEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

which  had  overflowed  its  banks,  and  which,  as  a  finish,  we  had 
to  cross  in  water  up  to  our  chests.  We  all  recollected  the  fate 
of  Musa,  and  this  remembrance,  together  with  the  thought  that 
some  hungry  crocodile  might  seize  the  fine  opportunity  of 
securing  a  substantial  breakfast,  naturally  did  not  contribute 
to  make  the  wading  more  agreeable.  Exhausted  and  wet 
through,  we  at  length  climbed  out  of  the  swamp  on  to  higher 
land,  where  we  quickly  changed  our  clothing,  so  as  to  avoid 
catching  a  deadly  fever  in  addition  to  all  the  rest.  We  now 
saw  before  us  grazing  herds,  with  their  herdsmen,  but  these 
latter  scampered  off  at  the  top  of  their  speed  when  I  attempted 
to  open  a  conversation  with  them. 

In  a  state  of  extreme  exhaustion,  our  column  halted  at  half- 
past  one  o'clock,  under  the  shadow  of  some  trees,  to  get  a  hasty 
Provision-  ^^^^ '  ^^^  we  had  to  march  until  past  three  before 
ing  the  were  ached  Keletesa's  encampment.  I  decided  to  rest 
here  for  a  day,  to  collect  a  fresh  stock  of  provisions 
ibr  the  column  for  the  march  across  the  steppe  between  Iramba 
and  Ugogo  that  lay  before  us.  That  very  afternoon  I  sent  to 
Sultan  Kilioma,  requesting  him  to  be  kind  enough  to  come 
to  me,  to  enter  into  negotiations  respecting  our  relations  to 
each  other.  I  asked  him  not  to  forget  the  tribute  due  to  me  ; 
I  should  require  a  few  donkeys  and  some  sheep.  It  appeared 
The  people  that  the  people  of  Iramba  are  of  the  same  race  as  the 
of  Iramba.  ^^agogo,  a  mixture  of  Bantu  and  Massai  blood.  They 
were  said  to  be  formidable  people,  who  attack  passing  caravans, 
to  force  them  to  pay  a  tribute.  Salim  told  me,  however,  that 
the  people  of  northern  Iramba  were  on  friendly  terms  with  the 
Wasiba  under  Keletesa. 

On  the  afternoon  of  the  24th  the  Sultan  appeared  with 
a  large  retinue,  amongst  whom  my  attention  was  especially 
attracted  by  a  number  of  young  girls,  whose  whole  attire  con- 
sisted of  short  skirts  made  of  beads,  that  were  very  becoming. 
I  laid  before  the  Sultan  the  reasons  that  had  induced  me  to  send 
for  him. 

"  I  know  very  well  that  you  dwell  here,  close  to  the  Massais, 
who  come  to  burn  your  villages,  murder  your  people,  and  carry 


INTERVIEW   WITH  SULTAN  KILIOMA.  509 

oflf  your  cattle.  Now,  I  am  the  enemy  of  the  Massais,  against 
whom  we  have  repeatedly  fought,  and  all  enemies  of  the 
Massais  are  my  friends.     The  nearest  way  from   the  .,, 

11111  Address  to 

Nyanza  to  the  coast  leads  through  your  territory,  and  I  suitan 
conclude  that  in  the  future  many  Germans'  will  pass  ^  ^°^^' 
through  it.  For  this  reason  I  will  give  you  our  flag,  which  will 
perhaps  frighten  away  these  Massais.  But,  ahove  all,  my 
brothers,  when  they  travel  through  your  country,  will  know  at 
once  you  are  our  friend.  You  will  bring  them  food,  and  they 
will  then  give  you  presents,  and  if  they  want  to  have  guides 
you  will  furnish  them  with  guides  to  Busiba.  Are  you  ready  to 
enter  into  such  friendship  with  me  ?  " 

"  I  am  very  willing  to  do  so.     The  Massais  came  here  only 
half  a  year  ago  and  drove  away  my  herds  of  oxen,  and  I  know 
that  they  will  come  again  as  soon  as  they  see  that  my  g^j^^^ 
herds  have  grown  large  once  more.     Therefore  I  shall  KiUoma's 

reply 

be  glad  if  the  Germans  pass  frequently  through  my 
territory,  and  I  pray  you  give  me  your  flag,  and  then  I  will  be 
the  servant  of  the  Germans." 

"  Very  good.  Here  is  our  flag  for  you,  which  my  soldiers 
shall  hoist  for  you  to-day,  and  here  I  give  you  your  letter.  But 
understand  well,  that  I  also  now  demand  of  you  that  you  shall 
give  your  support  to  every  expedition  under  the  German  flag. 
So  soon  as  you  have  had  the  German  flag  given  you  you  are  of 
necessity  bound  to  give  them  whatever  they  require  of  you, 
otherwise  we  shall  make  war  upon  you  and  destroy  you  all. 
But  if  you  are  faithful  and  true  to  us,  my  brothers,  who  will 
perhaps  come,  will,  on  their  part,  always  be  willing  to  make 
you  presents." 

After  an  hour's  interview  the  Sultan  left  me,  and  I  sent  a 
few  Somalis  with  him,  who  hoisted  the  black,  white,  and  red 
flag  on  a  lofty  position.     This  country  is  of  importance  Hoisting 

f*     •  ^     •  the  flae* 

for    caravan   traffic,   chiefly  on  account  of  its  lying         ^■ 
between  two  steppes,  and  thus  from  its  position  it  necessarily 
becomes  a  point  of  support  for  the  journey. 

On  May  25th  we  pursued  our  march  southwards,  still  keep- 
ing the  Iramba  mountains  on  our  left.     I  noticed  that  in  the 


510  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

distance  the  mountain  chain  was  leyelled  down,  and  I  decided  to 
cross  its  most  southern  spur.  Behind  it  we  came  upon 
ment  of  the  productive  settlement  of  Usure,  where  we  were  able 
to  provide  ourselves  with  food  for  the  desert  march  to 
Uweri-weri.  The  plateau  of  Iramba  is  covered  with  handsome 
forests,  in  the  midst  of  which  the  people  have  formed  their 
plantations.  In  north  Iramba  we  had  been  told  that  we  should 
have  to  fight  with  the  people  in  the  south  ;  therefore  on  that 
da)'  I  accomplished  the  march  with  all  the  vigilance  I  had 
formerly  used  in  the  Massai  country.  But  the  Wairamba  had 
PeaoeaWe  evidently  no  desire  to  measure  themselves  with  us.  In 
thewa*-"^  the  forest,  through  which  our  road  lay,  we  met  with 
iramba.  several  wood-cutters,  who  willingly  gave  us  information, 
when  we  asked  them,  regarding  our  route.  A  hostile  disposition 
was  nowhere  noticeable,  and  soon  we  left  all  trace  of  this  settle- 
ment behind  us,  and  were  once  more  surrounded  by  the  vast 
and  barren  bush  steppe.  Here  we  lost  the  track  of  Keletesa's 
caravan,  and  had  to  seek  our  way  for  ourselves.  About  noon, 
however,  we  found  water,  and  Salim's  Wangwana  succeeded  in 
finding  Keletesa's  track  again,  so  that  we  managed  to  reach  his 
encampment,  in  a  sort  of  moor-like  water  hollow,  towards  four 
o'clock. 

The  night  before  I  had  had  the  ill-fortune  to  be  found  out  in 
my  bed  by  a  centipede,  which  stung  me  in  the  finger,  so  that 

,.    ^  for  the  next  few  days  my  arm  was  painfully  inflamed 

A  centipede  ./  ./  r  j 

and  a  and  almost  paralysed.  The  following  night,  when  we 
^  ^^*'  had  gone  to  bed  at  nine  o'clock,  I  had  a  second  un- 
pleasant surprise.  My  servant  had  placed  my  washing  basin, 
which  consisted  of  a  waterproof  bag  hanging  in  a  three-footed 
stand,  close  to  my  bed,  ready  for  the  morning's  use.  During 
the  night,  as  usual,  the  wind  rose  slightly,  and  by  moving  the 
tent  backwards  and  forwards  it  caused  the  basin  to  overturn, 
and  to  pour  its  whole  contents  over  my  blanket  and  myself.  I 
called  my  servant,  but  could  not  make  up  my  mind  to  get  up, 
and  so  remained  lying  in  my  wet  blankets.  The  consequence 
was,  that  all  the  next  day  I  experienced  the  uncomfortable 
sensations  of  coming  fever. 


ON  THE  IRA  MB  A   PLATEAU.  511 

Duriug  this  day  we  continued  the  course  of  the  expedition 
towards  the  southern  incline  of  the  Iramha  plateau.  The  ground 
became  more  and  more  undulating,  and,  in  consequence  Theiramba 
of  the  moisture,  was  productive  of  a  richer  vegetation,  plateau- 
Mighty  ferns,  like  those  we  had  seen  along  the  Tana,  towered 
under  the  shadow  of  primeval  forest  trees,  and  a  growth  of  fresh 
grass  appeared  in  the  beds  of  rivers  now  dried  up.  From  ten 
o'clock  we  were  continually  on  the  ascent,  until,  between  eleven 
and  twelve,  a  very  steep  and  difficult  mountain  barrier  had  to 
be  scaled.  I  reached  the  summit  and  halted,  to  await  the  arrival 
of  my  column,  that  had  fallen  behind.  "We  partook  of  some 
breakfast,  and  pursued  our  way  along  the  plateau  till  towards 
three  in  the  afternoon.  Then  the  forest  opened,  and  suddenly 
we  saw  a  field  of  maize  just  in  front  of  us.  Half  an  hour's 
march  brought  us  through  the  corn  fields,  and  then,  upon  a  hill 
straight  before  us,  rose  a  fortified  place,  with  ramparts  of  clay, 
strongly  reminding  me  of  Kabaras  and  Kwa  Tindi. 

In   these    countries   it   is   customary   for   an   approaching 
caravan  to  announce  its  friendly  intentions  by  beat  of  drum. 
This  I  was  not  aware  of,  and  so  it  came  to  pass  that  the 
inhabitants  began  swarming  about  like  bees,  especially  among  the 

USitilVGS 

when  they  saw  the  German  flag.  They  were  afraid  we 
were  going  to  attack  and  plunder  the  place.  By  means  of  Salim 
I  soon  established  friendly  relations  with  them,  and  learnt  that 
we  were  now  in  Makongo,  in  the  vicinity  of  Usure.  I  had  the 
tents  pitched  under  a  huge  tree  on  the  left  side  of  the  ramparts, 
and,  at  the  request  of  the  elders,  I  forbade  my  people  to  encamp 
within  the  walls  of  the  town.  It  might  otherwise  soon  come  to 
a  quarrel,  the  chiefs  thought. 

My  efforts  to  enter  into  friendly  relations  with  the  Sultan 
of  the  place  himself  were  certainly  unavailing.     His  relatives 
came  presently,  begging  me  to  excuse  him,  saying  that  ^  ^^j^_ 
he   could   not    possibly    appear,    being    just    then    so  mduigent 
exceedingly  drunk.     They  were  prepared  to  accept  my 
suggestion  to  pour  water  upon  him,  so  that  perhaps  he  might 
be  able  to  appear  in  the  evening.     On  my  sending  in  the  even- 
ing to  request  that  the  Sultan  might  now  be  brought  to  me,  I 


512  XE]V  LIGHT  OX  DARK  AFRICA. 

was  informed  that  the  application  of  water  had  had  no  effect,  and 
that  he  was  still  drunk,  but  that  he  would  come  to  me  at  five 
o'clock  the  next  morning.  At  that  hour,  however,  the  state  of 
intoxication  continued  as  strongly  as  ever.  They  tried  to  bring 
him  to  me,  but  he  staggered  and  tumbled  down  at  the  gate.  As 
a  proof  of  their  friendly  intentions,  his  brother  presented  me 
with  two  oxen  for  slaughtering,  with  which  I  had  to  console 
myself  for  the  unsuccessful  attempt  at  concluding  friendship. 

On  leaving  Makongo  we  proceeded  in  a  south-easterly  direc- 
tion, leaving  the  southern  incline  of  the  Iramba  plateau  behind, 
to  the  north  of  us.  We  had  soon  left  the  plantations,  and  were 
once  more  out  in  the  bush  forest. 

That  morning  I  had  the  misfortune  that  my  donkey  ran 
away  Avith  me,  without  any  apparent  reason,  into  the  midst  of 
Amischance  *^®  thorny  thicket,  where  my  left  hand  was  mercilessly 
through  my  lacerated.  From  that  time  I  adopted  the  plan  Herr 
°"  ^^'  von  Tiedemann  had  always  followed,  namely,  that  of 
having  my  untrained  donkey  soberly  led  by  a  Somali ;  which 
method,  although  it  did  not  present  a  very  imposing  appearance, 
was  at  least  a  comfortable  and  practical  proceeding. 

At  eleven  o'clock  the  forest  once  more  opened  before  us,  and 
we  saw  more  plantations,  which  were,  indeed,  the  fields  of  the 
sultanate  of  Usure.  But  I  passed  by  the  first  villages  without 
halting,  as  I  wished  to  press  on  to  the  capital,  where  a  Sultana 
wields  the  sceptre.  We  did  not  reach  this  place — which  is  also 
The  un-  s^irrounded  with  strong  walls — until  after  one  o'clock, 
ladylike  To  our  sorrow  we  were  told,  immediately  on  our  arrival, 
that  the  Sultana  very  much  regretted  that  she  could 
not  receive  us,  but  that  she  and  all  her  court  were  very  drunk. 
It  was  just  harvest  time,  when,  as  I  might  easily  see,  the  corn- 
cultivating  tribes  of  Africa  are  more  or  less  drunk  every  day. 
The  movement  that  hopes,  by  preventing  the  importation  of 
Native  spirits,  to  put  an  end  to  the  consumption  of  alcohol  in 
and  foreign  Africa,  is  in  eiTor ;   for  this  reason,  that  the  natives 

alcohol.        1  p         1  T         p 

have  lor  thousands  oi  years  prepared  their  own  bever- 
ages, and  make  themselves  drunk  so  long  as  a  grain  of  yellow 
corn  is  to  be  had  anywhere.    The  different  sorts  of  native  pombe 


USURE,   AN  IMPORTANT  LOCALITY.  513 

are  certainly  lighter  than  European  brandy,  and  as  the  natives 
have  always  been  accustomed  to  put  away  large  quantities,  there 
can  be  no  doubt  that  brandy  is  far  more  injurious  to  them  than 
their  native  alcohol. 

I  was  compelled  here  in  Usure  also,  on  this  day,  to  dispense 
with  the  personal  acquaintance  of  the  Sultana,  formerly  a  friend 
of  Dr.  Fischer.  Her  prime  minister,  however,  who  was  dressed 
altogether  in  red,  visited  me  several  times,  enquired  respecting 
our  wishes,  and  very  readily  supplied  us  with  all  sorts  of 
food. 

The  fever  of  which  I  had  felt  the  premonitory  symptoms 
the  day  before,  now  broke  out.     The  attack  ^yas  indeed  Eeturn  of 
a  slight  one,  and  passed  off  on  the  following  day ;  but  ^^''^^■ 
it  was  tiresome,  nevertheless,   as   it    had    reduced  the  bodily 
strength  I  was  only  just  regaining. 

In  Usure  also  I  determined  to  enter  upon  a  treaty,  by  which 
the  Sultana  acknowledged  our  supremacy,  and  to  hoist  our  flag. 
This  was  done  on  May  29th,  1890.  On  a  height,  visible  from 
afar,  the  black,  white,  and  red  flag  was  displayed,  and  greeted 
by  three  volleys  from  three  Somalis. 

The  importance  of  Usure,  for  the  development  of  the  caravan 
road  opened  up  by  me,  is  similar  to  that  of  north  importance 
Iramba.     Caravans  coming  from  either  side  can  here  °* '''"'^^• 
recover  from  the  fatigues  of  the  march  across  the  steppe,  and 
take  in  a  fresh  stock  of  provisions. 

When  we  were  just  about  to  make  a  start,  I  was  informed 
that  Mandutto  had  disappeared.     I  learnt  that  the  reason  for 
this   step   was   that,  a   few    days  previously,   he   had 
wounded  his  wife — a  young  and  very  handsome  Galla-  partureof 
woman — in  the  hip  with  a  knife.     In  consequence  of 
this  she  was  unable  to  march  any  further  with  us,  and  Man- 
dutto would  not  leave  her  behind.     Negroes  are  all  very  faithful 
to  their  wives  and  sweethearts,  a  fact  I  was  able  to  verify  during 
my  entire  journey.     So  far  as  regarded  Mandutto,  I  was  sorry 
he  had  not  spoken  to  me  about  it,  for  I  would  willingly  have 
paid  him  his  well-earned  wages,  and  I  now  had  porters  in  abun- 
dance at  my  command.     It  was  a  great  sacrifice  on  the  part  of 

33 


514  A^EW  LIGHT  Oy  DARK  AFRICA. 

the  intelligent  fellow,  who  forfeited  his  whole  pay  in  order  to 
remain  with  his  sick  wife. 

On  Majf  31st  we  left  Usure,  and  once  more  made  our  wa)^ 
into  the  bush.  The  Sultana  had  presented  me  with  three  oxen, 
Departure  which  I  had  taken  with  us,  intending  to  have  one  killed 
from  TTsure.  gygj.y  sccoud  day.  Besides  these,  I  also  provided  myself 
with  eighteen  fowls,  which  were  carried  in  baskets  for  us,  as 
well  as  several  sheep,  that  were  driven.  I  may  mention,  by 
the  way,  that  the  food  for  these  fowls  gave  out  in  the  desert. 
In  order,  at  any  rate,  to  preserve  some  of  them  for  our  use,  I 
Ouroanni-  thereupon  adopted  the  somewhat  original  method  of 
T)ai  fowls,  having  two  fowls  killed,  cooked,  and  chopped  up  every 
day  as  food  for  the  rest ;  by  which  measure  our  stock  indeed 
rapidly  dwindled,  but  nevertheless  lasted  us  for  the  march 
through  the  steppe.  Sometimes,  too,  the  fowls  were  fed  with 
scraps  of  mutton  cutlets. 

On  the  day  we  started,  I  had  to  break  our  march  near  a  pool 
of  water  we  found  in  the  forest,  as  Herr  von  Tiedemann  once 
„  more  fell   seriously  ill.     He  was   again  attacked  by 

Herr  von  _  •'  _  °  •' 

Tiedemaim's  dysentery,  which,  especially  on  the  first  day,  assumed  a 
truly  alarming  character,  so  that  I  feared  the  worst. 
He  had  faithfully  gone  through  all  the  fatigues  and  dangers  of 
the  expedition  with  me  ;  I  could  not  bear  the  thought  that  I 
might  lose  him  on  the  last  stage  of  it. 

To  give  him  a  little  rest,  I  remained  encamped  in  the  forest 
on  June  1st.  In  these  last  days  I  had  entirely  recovered  from 
A  day's  Hiy  last  attack  of  fever,  by  sleeping,  literally,  day  and 
T^st-  night.     On  that  June  1st  I  slept  nineteen  hours  out 

of  the  twenty-four,  the  remaining  five  being  seriously  devoted  to 
the  taking  of  nourishment. 

On  June  2nd  I  started,  a  man  completely  refreshed,  but  Herr 
von  Tiedemann  was  so  weak  that  he  could  hardly  keep  up  with 
-Hammock  the  expedition.  In  consequence,  I  ordered  Salim  and 
travelling,  ^^e  Waugwaua,  in  the  evening,  to  make  him  a  comfort- 
able hammock,  and  persuaded  him  to  make  use  of  it  from  that 
time  forth,  taking  care  to  appoint  four  sturdy  Wasukuma  to  act 
as  his  bearers.     Thanks  to  his  strong  constitution,  which  time 


UWERI-WEBI  AND  ITS  INHABITANTS.  515 

after  time  shook  off  the  attacks  of  illness,  his  health  gradually 
improved  under  these  circumstances,  so  that  he  was  fairly  con- 
valescent on  arriving  at  Mpuapua,  where  Emin  Pasha  prescribed 
more  effectual  remedies  for  him. 

Thus  we  journeyed  onward  through  the  arid  steppe,  ever  in 
a  southerly  direction.  We  had  always  to  march  until  past  noon 
before  we  came  to  water,  but  still  we  found  some  every  day, 
although  we  were  compelled  every  now  and  then  to  dig  for  it. 
Three  or  four  wells  along  this  route  would  be  quite 
sufficient  to  make  it  practicable  all  the  year  round,  and  able  and 
this  would  mean  a  shortening  of  the  way,  to  the  saving  °'""^*^°"*^' 
of  nine  days  in  the  journey  between  the  coast  and  Lake  Victoria. 
The  road  is  even  and  good,  although  occasionally  rendered  some- 
what difficult  on  account  of  brushwood,  and  beasts  of  burden  can 
also  find  ample  fodder.  Therefore  I  think  this  route  has  a  future 
before  it. 

On  June  6th,  after  a  long  day's  march,  we  at  length  reached 
the  district  of  Uweri-weri,  which  Dr.  Fischer,  so  late  as  in  1886, 
had  found  still  in  a  flourishing  condition,  but  which 

The  dis- 

was  now  entirely  devastated  by  the  Massais.  Instead  of  trict  of 
prosperous  settlements,  we  found  a  wilderness,  and  what  ^^«"-'"^"- 
had  once  been  corn-fields  was  already  choked  with  brushwood. 
Only  a  few  miserable  ruins  remained  of  the  villages,  and  no 
human  being  inhabited  the  desolate  land.  The  same  indigna- 
tion that  had  possessed  me  on  the  Angata  na  Nyuki  now  again 
stirred  within  me,  against  these  barbarians  of  the  tablelands, 
and  I  sincerely  regretted  that  our  old  friends  did  not  here  make 
another  attempt  to  try  their  strength  with  us.  I  established 
our  camp  just  below  a  hilly  ridge,  from  whence,  however,  we 
had  an  open  view  of  the  desert  Massai  steppe.  The  day  was  grey 
and  dreary ;  an  unpleasant  wind  swept  across  the  steppe,  and 
I  sat,  in  much  depression  of  mind,  in  the  midst  of  the  desolation 
around  us.  Water  was  only  to  be  found  in  dirty  pools.  I 
ordered  the  tents  to  be  pitched,  and  was  gi-eatly  rejoiced  at  the 
arrival,  an  hour  later,  of  Herr  von  Tiedemann,  who  was  carried 
along  in  his  hammock ;  he  had  borne  the  fatigues  of  the  day 
better  than  I  had  expected. 


516  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

For  the  first  time  for  several  days  we  took  our  supper 
together.  On  leaving  my  tent,  when  the  meal  was  over,  to  give 
A  strange  some  Orders,  I  perceived  that  the  western  sky  was- 
pheno*^  illumined  by  a  most  peculiar  red,  which,  at  so  late  an 
menon.  hour,  hardly  appeared  to  me  to  be  caused  by  the  sun. 
I  called  to  Herr  von  Tiedemann  to  come  out.  He  now  told  me 
that  during  the  afternoon  he  had  several  times  fancied  he  heard 
the  booming  of  cannon,  which  appeared  to  proceed  from  the 
west.  This  excited  our  imagination  to  all  kinds  of  conjectures. 
Could  the  struggle  between  our  countrymen  and  the  Arabs  have 
extended  so  far  to  the  west  ?  Could  measures  have  been  taken 
to  occupy  Tabora,  in  order  there  also  to  make  a  clean  sweep  of 
the  Arab  rabble  ;  a  step  which  we  already  considered  necessary 
when  at  Lake  Victoria  ?  But  Hussein,  whom  I  questioned 
respecting  the  redness  of  the  sky,  destroyed  the  illusion  by 
soberly  declaring  that  the  light  came  from  the  sun,  which, 
although  it  seemed  very  extraordinary  after  seven  o'clock  in  the 
evening,  was  not  impossible. 

On  the  following  morning  we  left  Uweri-weri,  and  pro- 
ceeded southwards,  continually  through  bushland,  arriving  be- 
tween ten  and  eleven  o'clock  at  Kabaragas,  which  is  inhabited 
by  the  tribes  of  the  Wakimbu.  The  place  lies  in  a  hollow,  and 
the  people,  full  of  eager  curiosity,  ran  out  from  behind  the  red 
clay  walls  as  we  descended  the  slope.  Friendship  was  quickly 
In  Kabara  established  between  us  ;  the  camp  was  pitched  to  the 
gas;excit-  west  of  the  village,  and  food  of  every  kind  provided. 
For  the  first  time  for  a  week  we  were  again  among 
strangers.  The  people  at  once  reported  to  me :  "  A  week  ago 
three  messengers  of  the  Badutschi,  from  Mpuapua,  passed  along, 
the  Usonga  road ;  they  are  said  to  be  carrying  letters  for  the 
white  man  who  is  coming  from  Uganda."  These  tidings  were 
afterwards  confirmed  to  me  at  Mpuapua.  The  gentlemen  of  the 
Mission  had  wished  to  send  me  a  friendly  welcome,  and  also- 
news  from  Europe.  Unfortunately  these  tidings  failed  to  reach 
me,  because — what  no  one  in  Mpuapua  could  have  foreseen — 
I  had  marched  through  the  Wembaere  desert,  and  not  by  way 
of  Unjamwesi.     These   letters   only   came   into   my  hands   ia 


UGOGO;—AN  ARAB   TRADER.  517 

Germany,  several  months  later.  This  was  the  more  to  be 
regretted,  as  they  would  have  spared  me  much  of  the  anxiety 
I  experienced,  even  in  Ugogo,  respecting  our  possible  reception 
on  the  coast. 

On  June  8th  we  at  length  entered  the  country  of  Ugogo. 
Towards  one  o'clock  we  arrived  at  the  town  and  district  of 
Muhalala  in  5°  47'  S.  lat.,  situated  three  thousand  four  District  of 
hundred  and  fifty  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.     To  '^^''^°- 
those  coming  hither  from  the  north  this  country  lies  extended 
in  a  charming  prospect  in  the  hollow.     Before  us,  to  the  south, 
rise  the  mountains  of  Bunduko,  and  on  the  left  are  other  dark 
ridges.     These  are  the  Bachi  Mountains.     To  judge  by 
the  maps,  one  would  imagine  the  whole  of  Ugogo  land  aspect  of 
to  be  a  flat  savannah  plateau.    Doubtless  this  arises  from  ^^°^°' 
the  fact,  that  every  traveller  considers  Ugogo  to  be  so  well  known, 
that  it  is  unnecessary  to  give  any  details  about  it.     The  conse- 
quence is  that  the  map  of  this  country  is  particularly  inexact. 

That  day  I  pitched  my  camp  in  an  enclosed  space  on  the 

northern  slope,  just  above  the  villages.     We  had  a  splendid  view 

over  the  whole  surrounding  country.     I  had  scarcely  established 

myself  comfortably  in  my  tent,  when  Salim  arrived  with  the 

announcement  that  two  Germans  had  encamped  down  below  at 

Muhalala,  who  were  on  their  way  from  Tabora  to  Mpuapua. 

I  immediately  sent  off  a  letter  to  these  reported  white  . 

■'  ^  An  ex- 

men,  by  some   of  my  Somalis.     My  messengers  re-  aggerated 

rfiTiort 

turned  in  about  an  hour's  time,  and  said :  "  There 
is  only  one  traveller  down  below,  instead  of  two.  This  one 
does  not  belong  to  any  expedition,  but  is  alone  ;  nor  is  he 
a  European,  but  an  Arab,  and  he  is  not  going  to  Mpuapua,  but 
to  Irangi."  Here  was  another  proof  of  the  amount  of  reliance 
that,  generally  speaking,  may  be  placed  on  the  communications 
of  black  men. 

In   point    of   fact,    the   man    in   question    was   the    Arab 
Mohammed    Bin   Omari,    one   of    the    great    Tabora  ^^^^  ^^^^ 
Arabs ;    he    possessed    places    of   business    in    Irangi,  trader,  Bin 
and  was  now  following   his  caravan   thither,  for  the 
purpose  of  sending  the  ivory  stored  up  there  to  the  coast. 


518  i\EW  LIGHT  ON  DARK   AFRICA. 

From  all  I  have  heard  about  Irangi  in  these  latter  days, 
I  cannot  but  think  that  this  country  has  perhaps  a  future  before 
it.  Like  Iramba,  it  appears  to  be  a  damp  oasis  in  the  water- 
lacking  desert,  and  I  was  informed  that  its  inhabitants  were 
"good,"  from  which  it  may  be  concluded  that  there  are  no 
Massais  dwelling  in  it.  The  inhabitants  are  probably  of  the 
same  race  that  we  met  with  in  Iramba,  who  are  closely  related 
to  the  Wagogo. 

Mohammed  Bin  Omari  arrived  at  my  tent  after  breakfast, 
to  pay  his  respects  to  me,  and  to  bring  me  tribute. 
Interview         "  Come  nearer,"  I  said,  on  his  appearing  with  some 
ta^^d'    of  his  followers  at  the  entrance  of  my   tent.     "  You 
Bin  Omari.  gome  from  Tabora  ?  " 

"I  come  from  Tabora,"  he  replied,  "and  am  going  to 
Irangi." 

"  Well,  how  are  things  looking  in  Tabora  ?  Do  you  Arabs 
there  wish  to  have  war  upon  the  Germans,  or  do  you  prefer  to 
have  peace  ?  " 

"  We  Arabs  of  Tabora  wish  to  have  peace,  and  have  already 
sent  this  message  to  the  coast." 

"  Well,  that  is  right.  I  think,  too,  that  it  is  the  very  best 
thing  for  your  own  interest,  for  you  must  have  understood  that 
you  are  not  able  to  fight  against  the  Germans.  You  will  have 
heard  that  my  brothers  have  defeated  Bushiri.  We,  on  our 
part,  have  defeated  the  tribes  in  the  north,  the  Gallas  and 
Massais,  and  have  come  down  from  Uganda." 

"What  tidings  do  you  bring  from  Uganda  ?  " 

"  In  Uganda  the  Arabs  have  been  beaten  just  the  same  as 
in  the  east.  They  have  all  been  killed,  or  have  been  obliged  to 
Achieve  ^^®  ^^  Unjoro.  The  Christians  rule  in  Uganda,  and  if 
ments  of  the  the  Arabs  wish  to  carry  on  trade  there  again,  thev  will 

Badntschi.     ,  ^  n       • .    .      .1     V.i     ■      •  1  m, 

have  to  submit  to  the  Christians  there  too.  The  war 
is  at  an  end ;  you  are  beaten  at  all  points,  and  it  is  to  be  hoped 
you  will  not  be  unwise  enough  again  to  begin  fighting  against 
the  Badutschi." 

"  The  war  is  at  an  end,"  repeated  Mohammed  Bin  Omari, 
"  and  we,  all  of  us,  wish  for  peace.     Pray  make  our  peace  with 


MOHAMifED  BIN  OM ART'S  INFORMATION.  519 

Uganda.  The  news  about  you  has  already  reached  us  in  Tabora, 
and  we  know  that  you  can  also  procure  peace  for  us  at  Lake 
Victoria." 

"I  must  first  learn  what  are  the  commands  of  the  great 
Sultan  of  the  Badutschi.  If  he  wishes  it,  then  I  shall  be  quite 
ready  to  make  your  peace  with  Uganda." 

"  Will  you  not,  then,  give  me  a  letter  to  show  that  I  am  the 
friend  of  the  Germans,  and  wish  to  have  peace  with  them  ?  " 

"  Such  a  letter  I  will  willingly  give  you,  but  know  that  it 
depends   entirely   upon   your  own   behaviour  whether 
you  will  permanently  remain  the  friend  of  the  Germans  of  friend"* 
or  not.     Our  eyes  are  sharp,  and  we  soon  find  out  if  °^^^' 
any  one  is  acting  honestly  by  us,  or  wishes  to  play  us  false." 

Mohammed  Bin  Omari  now  presented  me  with  a  few  sheep, 
some  rice,  honey,  and  milk.     Then  he  inquired, — 

"  Is  there  anything  else  that  you  require  me  to  do  ?  If  so, 
let  me  know ;  I  will  give  you  all  you  demand.  You  perhaps 
wish  for  stuffs  or  beads  ?  " 

"  No,  thank  you.  I  want  neither  cloth  nor  beads,  but  give 
me  accurate  information  concerning  the  condition  of  Ugogo. 
How  many  days'  journey  have  we  to  Mpuapua  ?  " 

"  You  will  want  nine  or  ten  days  to  get  to  Mpuapua,  if  you 
march  well." 

"  Shall  we  have  war  on  the  road  ?  " 

"  No  war  as  far  as  Nsagara,  if  you  pay  tribute  to  Makenge." 
"  I  am  a  German,  and  pay  no  tribute.     I  paid  no  tribute  to 
the  Massais,  and  I  expect  of  Makenge  that  he  will  not  come  to 
us  with  any  demand  for  tribute.     Then,  farewell !  " 

When  we  descended  the  slope  the  next  morning,  and  marched 
past  Muhalala,  we  found  Mohammed  Bin  Omari  standing  by 
the  wayside,  with  some  of  his  followers,  to  greet  us  once  jjoj^^^j^^gj 
more,  and  to  make  me  further  presents  of  rice,  sugar,  Bin  omari-s 
milk,  and  sheep.  It  must  be  said  of  the  Arabs  that 
they  are  most  polite  and  respectful  in  their  manners,  and  their 
behaviour  shows  more  refinement  than  is  found  in  the  majority 
of  the  white  race. 

I  now  continued  to  advance  towards  the  east.     At  ten  o'clock 


520  XEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

there  suddenly  opened  upon  my  astonished  gaze  a  far-stretching 
region,  lying  considerably  below  us,  bordered  in  the  distant 
east  by  blue  mountains.  This  was  the  land  of  Ugogo  proper, 
and  the  rocky  incline  before  which  we  stood  Mas  no  other  than 
the  southern  spur  of  the  skirting  range  of  Mau,  which  we  had 
climbed  months  previously  at  Elgejo.  The  eye  rested  delight- 
edly upon  the  flat  country  lying  in  the  valley,  that  spread  out 
before  us  like  a  sea  covered  with  ice  and  snow. 

The  difficulty  now  was  to  find  a  place  where  we  might 
descend.  But  the  Wagogo,  who  stood  around,  pointed  out  the 
way,  and  Avith  some  trouble  the  column,  as  well  as  the  beasts  of 
burden,  were  successfully  transported  to  the  foot  of  the  moun- 
The  Kiiima  tain  in  the  course  of  an  hour.  This  mountain  ridge  is 
Tindi  ridge,  galled  in  Ugogo  Kiiima  Tindi.  The  mountain  ridges, 
shining  with  bluish  tints  on  the  distant  horizon,  belonged  to 
the  Marenga  Mkali,  or  to  the  western  boundary  of  Mpuapua. 
Salim,  who  was  well  acquainted  with  the  country,  pointed  out 
all  this  to  me.  My  troop  of  Wanjamwesi  and  Manyema  broke 
into  loud  shouts  of  rejoicing  on  seeing  before  them  the  Ugogo 
they  knew  so  well. 

We  now  proceeded  eastwards  until  past  midday.     The  sun 

shone  hotly  down  upon  us.     Stanley  calls  Ugogo  a  garden,  and 

regrets  that  he  is  unable  to  have  a  hand  in  cultivating 

Deceptive         °  . 

appear-  it  as  such.  He  would  probably  experience  a  great  dis- 
appointment if  he  attempted  to  do  so.  This  supposed 
garden,  more  than  any  other  country  in  Eastern  Africa,  is  simply 
a  dry  savannah,  in  which  the  watercourses  themselves  contain 
water  only  in  the  rainy  season,  and  where  even  those  expeditions 
which,  like  our  own,  traverse  the  country  immediately  after  the 
rainy  season  have  continually  to  combat  against  the  drought. 

The  river  Bubo,  flowing  from  the  north  to  Ugogo,  and  form- 
ing part  of  the  Rufidschi  water  system,  was  already,  by  the 
A  dry  arid  middle  of  Juuc,  entirely  dried  up,  and  we  had  to'dig  for 
region.  ^yater  in  its  bed.  Out  of  such  a  country  no  garden 
could  be  made  ;  cattle-breeding  alone  is  possible,  and  the  culti- 
vation of  maize  and  corn  only  in  a  very  limited  area,  in  particular 
positions.      Of  all  the  countries  through  which  we  travelled 


CUARAClEBmriC^   OF   riJE    WAGOGO. 


i21 


Ugogo  is  the  ugliest,  and,  I  may  add,  the  most  re]iiilsivc'  ;  and 
the  disposition  of  the  people  is  in  keeping  with  the  character  of 
the  conTitr3\     The  Wagogo  are  originally  of  Bantu  race,  but 


if . 


View  op  the  Plaix  of  U&ogo, 

NEAK   MTIVE. 

apparentl_y   have    a    con- 
siderable   admixture     of 
Massai     blood.       Like     the 
Massais,  they  are  arrogant  and 
addicted    to    thieving.      They 
look    upon    strangers    simply    as 
enemies ;    and    as    for    thousands    of 
,years     traffic     has    taken    its    course 
through  their  land,  they  have  estaTjlished 
for  themselves  a  predaceous  custom  of  exacting  tribute,  under 
which  all  the  trade  caravans  have  to  suffer  grievously. 

In  his  work  "In  Darkest  Africa,"  vol.  ii.,  p.  40G,  Stanley 


522  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

thus  complains,  in  a  somewhat  sentimental  strain  : — "  There  is 
no  countr}'  in  Africa  that  has  excited  greater  interest  in  me 
than  this.  It  is  a  ferment  of  trouble  and  distraction,  and  a 
vermin  of  petty  annoyances  beset  the  traveller  from  day  to  day 
while  in  it.  No  natives  know  so  well  how  to  aggrieve  and  be 
unpleasant  to  travellers.  One  would  think  there  was  a  school 
somewhere  in  Ugogo  to  teach  low  cunning  and  vicious  malice  to 
the  chiefs,  who  are  masters  in  foxy-craft.  Nineteen  years  ago 
I  looked  upon  this  land  and  people  with  desiring  eyes.  I  saw  in 
it  a  field  worth  some  effort  to  reclaim.  In  six  months  I  felt 
sure  Ugogo  could  be  made  lovely  and  orderly,  a  blessing  to  the 
inhabitants  and  to  strangers,  without  any  very  great  expense  or 
trouble  ;  it  would  become  a  pleasant  highway  of  human  inter- 
course with  far-away  peoples,  productive  of  wealth  to  the  natives, 
and  comfort  to  caravans.  I  learned,  on  arrival  in  Ugogo,  that 
I  was  for  ever  debarred  from  the  hope.  It  is  to  be  the  destiny 
of  the  Germans  to  carry  out  this  work,  and  I  envy  them.  It  is 
the  worst  news  of  all  that  I  shall  never  be  able  to  drain  this 
cesspool  of  iniquitous  passion,  and  extinguish  the  insolence  of 
Wagogo  chiefs,  and  make  the  land  clean,  healthy,  and  even 
beautiful  of  view.  While  my  best  wishes  will  accompany 
German  efforts,  my  mind  is  clouded  with  a  doubt  that  it  ever 
will  be  that  fair  land  of  rest  and  welcome  I  had  dreamed  of 
making  it." 

What  a  pity  for  Ugogo  that  Stanley  cannot  carry  out  his 
plans  respecting  this  country  !  It  would  indeed  be  an  enormous 
Lost  oppor-  advantage  for  the  whole  of  Eastern  Africa  if  the  cara- 
tunities.  -^-g^^g^  instead  of  passing  through  an  entirely  dried-up 
savannah  at  the  back  of  Usagara,  could  make  their  way  through 
a  verdant  and  flourishing  garden.  Certainly  Mr.  Stanley  had  a 
capital  opportunity  offered  him  "  to  extinguish  the  insolence  of 
Wagogo  chiefs "  when  he  last  traversed  this  country,  and  it  is 
only  to  be  regretted  that  he  took  no  advantage  of  it. 

On  June  9th  we  found  ourselves  in  the  western  part  of 
Makeiige's  country,  and  on  this  day  I  set  up  the  camp  at 
Mtive,  once  again  in  an  encampment  that  had  been  occupied  by 
Mr.  Stokes.     When  Stanley  passed  through  Makenge's  country 


3rB.  STANLEY  IN  UGOGO.  523 

nine  months  previously  the  latter  had  sent  to  him  with  the 
request  that  he  should  pay  tribute  immediately,  ihedis- 
Stanley,  at  the  head  of  one  thousand  men,  and  possess-  ^fggtiMi  of 
ing  a  Maxim  gun,  could  have  utilised  this  excellent  tribute, 
occasion  "  to  extinguish  the  insolence  of  Wagogo  chiefs,"  for  a 
demand  of  this  kind  for  tribute,  in  the  face  of  so  strong  an 
expedition  commanded  by  nine  white  men,  may  well  be  called 
insolence. 

Instead  of  setting  to  work  "  ta  drain  this  cesspool  of  ini- 
quitous passion,"  however,  Stanley  sent  Makenge  the  accustomed 
tribute  paid  by  caravans.     But  with  this  Makenge  was 
not  satisfied.     He  returned  the  simple  tribute,  and  now  and 
demanded  of  Stanley  that  he  should  give  him  up  his    ^'^  ^^' 
men  for  feudal  labour.     He  desired  Stanley  to  have  a  fortified 
camp  built  for  him. 

Here  was  the  second  opportunity  for  Mr.  Stanley  "  to  ex- 
tinguish the  insolence  of  Wagogo  chiefs."  He  was  certainly 
suflBciently  angry  at  this  demand  of  Makenge's,  but  instead  of 
refusing  it,  and  waiting  for  the  consequences,  he  considered  it 
the  wiser  course  to  give  way,  and  sent  Makenge  four  times  the 
usual  tribute,  with  which  the  latter  was  graciously  pleased  to 
declare  himself  satisfied. 

This  small  episode,  which  took  place  during  Stanley's  sojourn 
in  Ugogo,  is  not  related  by  him,  and  I  only  mention  it  to  make 
the  following  circumstances  more  intelligible. 

It  is  as  clear  as  possible  that  if  an  expedition  of  the  strength 
of  Stanley's  in  Ugogo  consented  to  pay  tribute,  one  ^^^^^^^_ 
could  scarcely  expect  either  great  respect  or  correspond-  payers  not 

*/  ■*-  (_/-»-  1*681]  BClJSCl 

ing  humility  towards  the  white  race  from  the  people  of 

the  land.     Accordingly,  what  happened  to  us  in  this  country  is 

not  in  any  way  to  be  wondered  at. 

We  were  still  sitting  at  breakfast,  when  some  rascally 
Wagogo  began  to  crowd  round  our  tent,  and  one  of  them  placed 
himself  rudely  in  front  of  the  entrance.  On  my  requesting 
him  to  be  off",  he  grinned  impudently,  but  remained  where  he 
was.  Hereupon  Herr  von  Tiedemann,  who  sat  nearest  to  the 
door,  sprang  from  his  seat,  seized  the  fellow,  and  flung  him  on 


524  XEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

one  side.  I  too  jumped  up,  and  called  out  to  Hussein  to  lay 
hold  of  him,  and  to  teach  him  a  lesson  with  the  hippo- 
the^wa^  °  potamus-hide  whip.  This  was  done  amidst  howls  of 
^"^"^  lamentation,  whilst  the  Wangwana  informed  us  that  the 
offender  was  the  son  of  the  Sultan  of  the  country.  Whilst  this 
Avas  going  on  there  arose,  to  the  north  of  the  camp,  the  war-cry 
of  the  Wagogo,  which  we  knew  so  well.  These  people  had 
driven  away  my  men  from  the  water  because  I  had  paid  no 
tribute,  and  now  came  rushing  towards  the  camp.  I  im- 
mediately betook  myself  to  the  north  side  of  it,  and  saw  how 
the  Wagogo  warriors,  armed  for  the  most  part  each  with  two 
lances,  came  dancing  along,  challenging  us  to  fight. 

As  they  began  to  shoot  their  arrows  at  us,  I  fired  amongst 
them,  knocking  one  over,  and  hitting  another  in  the  arm. 
They  now  took  to  headlong  flight,  and  immediately  some 
check  to  of  the  chiefs  came  to  me  to  open  peace  negotiations, 
insolence.  ,pj^^  debate  upou  these  continued  all  the  afternoon,  and 
in  the  evening  it  was  at  last  decided  to  send  messengers  to 
Makenge,  to  whose  capital  we  were  to  march  on  the  following 
day,  and  to  leave  the  settling  of  the  matter  to  him. 

I  stationed  twelve  sentries  to  guard  the  camp  during  the 
„    ^       night,  and  the  following  morning  set  out,  with  beat  of 

Harch  to-         ~      '  °  . 

wards  the  drum,  On  our  march  eastward,  passing  great  crowds 
of  the  Wagogo  as  we  went.  Our  way  led  through  an 
almost  dried-up  river,  into  the  country  of  Unjanguira.  At 
eleven  o'clock  we  came  to  a  well-cultivated  territory,  which 
strongly  reminded  me  of  the  country  bordering  Lake  Moris, 
near  Alexandria.  I  remarked  that  large  bodies  of  men  were 
running  about  behind  the  maize  fields,  and  was  further  dis- 
agreeably impressed  by  the  hyena-like  howl  of  the  Wagogo,  in 
which  I  plainly  recognised  a  war-cry. 

When  we  had  pursued  our  way  through  the  maize  fields 
lying  east  of  the  villages,  I  suddenly  became  aware  of  several 
hundred  Wagogo  warriors,  who  were  kneeling  by  the  left  side  of 
the  road,  with  bows  bent  and  lances  ready  for  battle,  and  one 
of  the  chiefs  came  running  towards  us,  shouting  in  impudent 
tones   the    demand    for    tribute    ("Mahongo!    Mahongo !  "). 


STRAINED   RELATIONS    WITH  THE   WAGOGO.  525 

My   contempt   for   these   rascals   had   been   increased   by    the 
occurrences  of  the  previous  day.     I  handed   my  gun 

1,1.  1  ,  1        .    ,      .      Renewed 

to  my  servant,  and,  taking  my  long  knotted  stick  m  demand  of 
my  hand,  made  straight  for  the  Wagogo,   calling  out  *^^  ^'^' 
to  them : — 

"Take  yourselves  off  from  here,  and  mind  what  you  are 
about !  " 

They  all  rose,  and  moved  slowly  away.  I  then  marched  to 
an  encampment  in  the  south  of  Makenge's  capital,  and  imme- 
diately sent  a  message  to  the  Sultan,  requesting  him  to  put 
himself  in  communication  with  me,  as  I  desired  to  know  whether 
he  wished  for  war  or  peace. 

The  messengers  returned  with  their  commission  unexecuted.^ 
They  had  been  warned  by  a  caravan  of  Wanjamwesi,  encamped 
in  the  vicinity,   not  to  enter  Makenge's  capital,  where,   they 
declared,  thousands  of  warriors    were  collected   to  attack  us. 
To  be  prepared  for  this  emergency,  as  I  was  almost  jj^j^ggj^jf^ 
without  ammunition  for  my  muzzle-loaders,  I  sent  in  ammuni- 
all  haste  for  the  only  load  of  wire  I  had  brought  with 
me  on  the  expedition,  had  it  filed  into  pieces,  and  distributed 
these  among  my  men.     We  then  seated  ourselves  for  breakfast, 
during  which  messengers,  sent  from  the  Wanjamwesi  caravan,, 
appeared  to  offer  us  their  friendship. 

Whilst  I  was  speaking  to  them  messengers  suddenly  arrived 
from  Makenge. 

"  Our  Sultan  sends  you  word  that  he  wishes  for  peace  with 
you.  He  wishes  to  be  the  friend  of  the  Germans,  and  you  are 
to  pay  no  tribute  in  his  country." 

"Tell  your  Sultan,"  I  replied,  "if  he  desires  to  be  the 
friend  of  the  Germans,  and  our  friend,  he  must  ex-  jj^^g^g^.^ 
change  presents  with  me.     Let  him  send  me  corn  and  mesaenger 

°      ^  ,     ,  ^    „  rebuked. 

honey,  and  I  will  give  him  powder  and  cloth  stutts. 

We  were  still  in  conversation,  when  the  clatter  of  guns,  pro- 
ceeding from  the  west  of  our  camp,  again  near  the  water, 
suddenly  resounded.  In  wild  haste  my  men  came  rushing  to 
the  camp  from  that  direction.  Seizing  my  double-barrelled, 
gun,  I  stepped  forth  from  my  tent,  and  cried, — 


.526  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

"  Where  are  the  Wagogo  ?  " 

"  There,  and  there,  and  there !  From  every  side  they 
come  ! '' 

And  so  it  was.  From  every  direction  I  could  see  the 
Wagogo  in  croAvds  dancing  forward. 

This  sight  so  roused  my  anger  that  I  cried  out  to  my  men  : 

"  Dererah,  Somal !  "  (  "  Fight,  Somalis  !  ")  "  To  your  guns, 
War  with  SOUS  of  the  Unjamwesi,  sons  of  Usukuma,  and  sons  of 
thewagogo.jyja^jjyej^a  I     Forward !     Down  with  the  Wagogo  !  " 

The  plan  of  action  was  soon  settled.  A  few  of  the  Somalis 
had  to  protect  the  east  and  north  side  of  the  camp.  To  the 
west  and  south,  from  whence  the  chief  attack  proceeded,  I 
hastened  forward  with  ahout  twenty  men  to  oppose  the  enemy. 
Herr  von  Tiedemann  was  at  first  at  my  side,  hut  I  ordered  him 
back  to  the  eastern  side. 

The  Wagogo,  between  two  and  three  thousand  strong,  accord- 
ing to  Von  Tiedemann's  computation,  and  many  of  them  armed 
with  muzzle-loaders,  began  the  attack.  An  unfortunate  circum- 
stance for  me  was  that  my  men  could  only  shoot  at 
Tinder  diffi-  short  distances  with  those  wretched  pieces  of  wire,  which 
somewhat  lessened  the  superiority  of  our  firearms.  My 
double-barrelled  gun,  however,  and  the  repeating  guns  of  the 
Somalis,  maintained  their  usual  efficiency.  In  accordance  with 
my  old  Massai  tactics,  I  gave  orders  to  fire  several  volleys,  so 
as  to  begin  by  knocking  down  some  of  their  warriors.  With 
loud  cheers  we  then  advanced,  but  in  such  a  way  as  to  carefully 
watch  the  movements  of  our  adversaries,  and  when  they  halted 
we  halted  too,  and  fired  upon  them  again. 

The  sun  shone  fiercely,  but  in  half  an  hour  the  Wagogo  had 
been  repulsed  from  the  camp  towards  the  south  and  west ;  and 
now  I  sent  a  message  to  Herr  von  Tiedemann,  requesting  him 
to  remain  in  camp  and  guard  it,  as  I  intended  to  advance 
against  the  villages  situated  about  half  a  mile  to  the  southward, 
and  there  to  attack  the  Wagogo  in  my  turn.  I  was  in  the  act 
of  carrying  out  this  intention,  and  was  pushing  forward  against 
the  villages,  when  I  was  suddenly  met  by  messengers  from 
Makenge. 


PUNISHMENT  OF  THE   WAGOGO.  527 

"  The  Sultan  wishes  for  peace  with  you,  and  will  pay  you 
tribute  in  ivory  and  oxen." 

I  replied,  "  The  Sultan  shall  have  peace.     It  shall  sues  for  °'" 
be  the  eternal  peace.     I  will  show  the  Wagogo  what  the  ^^*''^" 
Germans  are." 

So  I  advanced  against  the  first  village,  where  the  Wagogo  at 
first  tried  to  defend  themselves  ;  but  after  several  of  them  had 
been  shot  down,  they  rushed  in  wild  flight  out  at  the  south  gate, 
and  the  village  was  in  our  hands. 

"Plunder  the  village,  set  fire  to  the  houses,  and  smash 
everything  to  pieces  that  will  not  burn  !  " 

But  unfortunately  it  soon  became  apparent  that  the  Wagogo 
villages  themselves  do  not  burn  easily,  being  composed  of 
wooden  buildings  covered  with  clay,  with  a  circular  „     . 

^  •' '  Burning  of 

enclosure  around  them.  I  ordered  large  quantities  of  wagogo 
wood  to  be  placed  in  the  houses,  which  were  systemati- "  ^^^^' 
cally  set  on  fire.  The  axes  that  I  sent  for  to  the  camp  did  their 
work  also  in  knocking  down  the  walls,  so  the  first  village  was 
soon  in  ruins.  Whilst  this  work  was  proceeding  I  placed  three 
Somalis  as  a  guard  on  the  south  side,  and  frightened  away  the 
Wagogo  with  my  shots. 

Meanwhile,  I  sent  off  a  message  to  the  neighbouring 
Wanjamwesi  caravan,  with  which  we  had  already  concluded 
terms  of  friendship :  "  Come  and  help  us.  If  we  capture  the 
herds  of  the  Wagogo  you  shall  have  a  share  of  the  booty." 

This  was  between  two  and  three    in  the  afternoon.     The 
Wanjamwesi,  however,  did  not  probably  feel  very  confident  about 
the  matter,  for  they  did  not  appear  upon  the  scene  of  the  a  renewed 
encounter  until  five  o'clock.     Now  Hussein  called  out  ^^^™'- 
to  me  :  "  Master,  come  !  the  Wagogo  are  attacking  the  camp  !  " 

I  answered,  "  I  will  show  you  how  to  drive  the  Wagogo 
away  from  the  camp." 

We  crept  through  the  maize  fields,  and  suddenly  began  to 
fire  upon  the  hordes,  who  were  rushing  on  from  the  east  cowardice 
in  flank  and  in  rear.     They  fled  wildly,  scattering  in  of  the  ^ 
every  direction.     My  contempt  for  the  Wagogo  was  so 
great,  that  during  this  fight  I  said  repeatedly  to  my  men,  "  I 


.yjs 


.v/:ir  Ljnirr  ax  dark  africa. 


will  prove  to  you  what  kind  of  rascals  we  liave  lo  deal  willi. 
Stay,  all  ol'  you,  where  you  are,  and  I  will  alone  drive  the 
Wag'oso  away."  T  went  towards  the  Wagogo,  shouted  "Hurrah ! " 
aud  away  they  ran  hx  huiulreds. 

I  uii'Ution   this,  not   to  represent  our  advance  as  anything 


UesTEUCTIOX   <JI    the  \VAIt()(,i) 
YlLLAr,ES. 

heroic,  hut  only  to  show  what 

all    tills    African     population 

really   is,   and   how   exaggerated 

are  the  ideas  which  exist  in  Euro])e 

concerning  their  warlike  capabilities 

and    the    means    necessary   for  'their 

subjugation.      The  Wagogo  are    considered   one   ol'  the   trilie? 

most  to  be  dreaded  in  the  whole  of  the  German  East  Africar 

Protectorate,  before  whom  the  Wangwana  of  the  coast  tremble 

on   entering  their   country  ;   and  yet  we  were  able,  Avith   bac 

ammunition  and  only  twenty  men,  to  send  thousands  of  then 

scamperinii'. 

From  three  in  the  afternoon  I  advanced  against  the  otliei 


THE   WANJAMWE8I :—A    CATTLE  BAID.  529 

villages  in  the  south.  Everywhere  the  same  spectacle  was 
repeated.  After  a  short  resistance  the  Wagogo  fled  in  all  direc- 
tions; burning  brands  were  thrown  into  the  houses,  and  the 
axes  did  their  work  in  hewing  in  pieces  what  could  not  be 
burnt.  By  half-past  four,  twelve  villages  were  thus  burnt 
down ;  but  I  was  not  in  a  position  to  seize  the  herds  that  were 
grazing  further  south  on  a  mountain  slope,  for  I  had,  as  a 
rule,  only  six  to  ten  men  immediately  around  me,  and  I  could 
not  but  suppose  that  the  Wagogo  would  here  fight  more 
energetically. 

Suddenly,  at  about  five  o'clock,  I  saw  large  numbers  coming 
hurriedly  towards  me,  from  the  direction  of  my  camp.     At  first 
I  took  them  for  Wagogo,  and  was  just  on  the  point  of 
firing  at  them.     But  my  people  cried  out  to  me, —         the  wan- 

"The  W^anjamwesi  are  coming  !  "  jamwesi. 

I  now  called  out  to  the  Wanjamwesi,  "  Come  on,  Wanjam- 
wesi !  Forward  upon  the  oxen  of  the  Wagogo  !  There  they  are, 
yonder  !     Hurrah  !  " 

And  off  we  set,  rushing  wildly  past  several  villages,  towards 
the  herds  of  oxen.     The  Wagogo  endeavoured  rapidly  to  drive 
their  herds  away,  but  we  succeeded  in  seizing  two  or  The  cattle 
three  hundred  head,  knocking  over  those  of  the  herds-  ^i*''® 

'  ~  wagogo 

men  who  did  not  flee.  My  gun  had  become  so  hot  seized, 
from  frequent  firing  that  I  could  scarcely  hold  it.  The  greater 
part  of  the  firing  on  that  day  fell  to  my  share,  as  I  was  almost 
the  only  person  who  possessed  a  sufficient  supply  of  ammunition. 
My  burning  thirst  I  quenched  from  time  to  time  with  some  sour 
milk  we  had  seized. 

The  sun  was  sinking  in  the  west  when  I  at  last  gave  the 
order  to  retire.  My  people  were  so  full  of  fighting  spirit,  that  I 
could  scarcely  prevail  upon  them  to  return.  They  were  plun- 
dering in  the  various  villages,  or  scoffing  at  the  Wagogo,  who 
were  still  either  standing  or  lying  about  in  the  background  in 
large  numbers. 

At  half-past  five  we  began  our  return  march.  The  cattle 
were  driven  along  with  us,  and  the  Wagogo  followed  at  a 
respectful  distance,  still  firing  upon  us,  until  we   were  close 

34 


o30  XEW  LIGHT  OX  DARK  AFRICA. 

to  our  camp.  But  they  were  unable  to  regain  possession  of  a 
single  head  of  their  cattle.  On  the  following  morning,  they 
reported  their  loss  on  that  afternoon  as  "  over  fifty." 

When  we  approached  the  camp,  Herr  von  Tiedemann  and 
the  men  there  came  out  joyfully  to  meet  us. 

"  Well,  Herr  von  Tiedemann,  I  think  those  will  last  us  as 
far  as  Mpuapua,"  I  said,  pointing  to  the  cattle. 

We  shook  hands  and  walked  towards  the  camp.  My  men 
performed  warlike  and  triumphal  dances  round  the  animals. 
On  entering  my  tent,  I  again  quenched  my  thirst,  this  time  with 
cognac  and  Avater  ;  I  then  distributed  the  remaining  powder 
and  bits  of  wire,  and  posted  sentries  round  the  camp, 
ofsun-''™^  I  experienced  a  peculiar  heaviness  in  the  head,  from 
stroke.  running  so  much  in  the  hot  sun.  As  became  manifest 
on  that  very  night,  I  had  contracted  an  affection  of  the  brain, 
which  made  itself  felt  during  the  next  few  days  in  deafness, 
as  well  as  in  feverish  temperature  and  a  general  feeling  of 
discomfort. 

Before  turning  back  from  the  villages  of  the  Wagogo,  I  had 
shouted  to  them, — 

"  You  now  know  Kupanda  Sharo  and  the  Germans  a 
little  better  than  you  did  this  morning ;  but  you  shall  learn  to 
Threaten-  ^^^^  them  in  quite  another  fashion.  I  shall  now 
d^g  the  remain  amongst  you  in  your  country,  so  long  as  a  man 
of  you  is  alive,  so  long  as  one  of  your  villages  still 
stands,  and  a  single  animal  of  your  herds  is  to  be  seized  !  " 

A  great  slaughtering  of  cattle  was  now  going  on  in  the 
camp,  and  a  joyous  spirit  pervaded  the  men  seated  round  the 
camp-fires,  before  which  reclined  also  the  Wanjamwesi,  who  had 
been  invited  to  stay  till  evening. 

At  nine  o'clock  Makenge  sent  his  sons  to  me.  They  brought 
some  ivory,  representing  a  net  value  of  about  one  thousand 
Makenge's  marks,  as  a  first  tribute,  and  requested  to  know  what 
submiflsion.  ^ygj.^  ^^  conditions  of  peace. 

"  Tell  your  Sultan  that  I  want  no  peace  with  him.  The 
Wagogo  are  liars,  and  must  be  destroyed  from  off  the  face  of  the 
-earth.     But  if  the  Sultan  wishes  to  become  the  slave  of  the 


CAEAVANS   OF  THE   WANJAiVWEST  AND  M0HA2IMED.    531 

Germans,  then  he  and  his  people  may  live.  As  a  proof  of  your 
submission,  let  him  send  me  to-morrow  morning  a  tribute  of 
oxen,  sheep,  and  goats,  let  him  send  me  milk  and  honey,  and 
then  we  will  negotiate  further." 

That   night   I  fell  into  a  heavy  sleep,   from  which  I  was 
awakened  before  sunrise  by  the  lowing  of  cattle.     Makenge  had 
sent  me  thirty-eight  oxen,  as  well  as  a  number  of  sheep. 
In  the  course  of  the  day,  milk  and  honey  and  other  sends 
articles  arrived  in  addition.     I  now  consented  to  enter 
into  a  treaty  with  him,  by  virtue  of  which  he  was  placed  under 
■German  authority.     I  promised  to  send  him  the  flag,  as  soon  as 
I  should  reach  Mpuapua. 

The  great  Wanjamwesi  caravan,  which  was  encamped  in  the 
neighbourhood,  sent  me  a  deputation  on  that  day  to  ^^^  ^^^ 
say,  "Be  our  leader;  we  will  be  your  people."     This  jamwesi 
•caravan   numbered   over   twelve    hundred    men,   and 
possessed,  amongst  other  advantages,  a  great  many  drummers. 

Having  settled  everything  by  June  11th,  we  started  again 
on  our  eastward  march  on  the  12th,  the  black,  white,  and  red 
flag  waving  gaily  in  the  morning  breeze,  the  drums  beating 
lustily,  and  the  Wagogo  herds  in  the  van.  Not  a  Wagogo  was 
to  be  seen  in  the  whole  country  side. 

We  encamped  this  day  on  the  banks  of  the  Bubo  river, 
-which  flows  from  north  to  south,  but  which  was  at  that  time 
■dried  up,  as  I  have  already  mentioned.  I  could  By  the 
scarcely  move  at  all,  and  on  this  day  had  a  kind  ^"'"' "''"'• 
■of  litter  constructed  for  myself  also,  in  which  it  was  my 
intention  to  be  carried  on  the  morrow.  After  a  march  of  some 
seventeen  miles,  we  reached  Ungombe  on  June  13th.  The 
water  standing  here  in  small  ponds  had  been  rendered  so  dirty 
by  the  drinking  of  herds  of  cattle  at  them,  that  we  could  not 
make  use  of  it  even  for  soup. 

On    this   day    Makenge's    son,    who    was    governor   here, 
voluntarily  sent  me  twenty  oxen  as  tribute.     Here  we  jj^^^^^j 
found  encamped  a  large  Arab  caravan,  which  was  still  ^^^^^'^ 
negotiating  with  the  Wagogo  respecting  tribute.     It 
was  the  caravan  belonging  to  Mohammed  Bin  Omari,  whom 


532  NEW  LIGHT   ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

I  had  met  at  Muhalala.  Scarceh'  had  they  heard  of  our 
arrival,  when  a  deputation  came  to  request  that  I  would 
become  their  leader ;  the}'  would  be  ni}'  people,  if  I  would 
conduct  them  safely  out  of  Ugogo.  I  accepted  this  proposal, 
and  thus  became  the  commander  of  more  than  two  thousand 
men. 

In  the  night  I  broke  out  into  a  healthy  perspiration,  which 
brought  me  relief  from  my  attack  of  something  like  a  sun- 
stroke, but  on  June  14th  my  deafness  still  continued.  On 
that  day  I  did  not  give  the  order  to  start  till  the  afternoon,, 
a  proceeding  always  to  be  recommended  when  one  cannot  hope 
to  reach  water  in  a  single  march :  the  people  have  time  to 
cook  their  food  in  the  last  encampment,  the  animals  can 
be  watered  for  the  day,  and  on  the  second  day  water  will  be 
reached. 

On  June  14th  we  turned  slightly  from  our  easterly  course, 
and  proceeded  east-north-east,  to  avoid  the  so-called  Lindi 
Circuit  mountain  chain.  Having  marched  for  some  hours 
Lindf*^*  through  forest  and  bush,  we  reached  an  open  space, 
mountains,  gj-aggy  but  dry,  at  five  o'clock.  Here  we  encamped. 
It  was  a  dull  evening.  The  wind  whistled  loudly,  and  we  sat 
in  my  tent  feeling  remarkably  chilly.  ,.  I  retired  to  rest  in  a 
depressed  state  of  mind,  thinking  of  my  deafness.  All  kinds 
of  anxious  thoughts  passed  through  my  brain.  What  if  I  were 
to  become  blind  as  well  as  deaf?  How  sad  would  be  the 
future  before  me  !  I  fell  asleep  at  a  late  hour,  and,  awaking 
about  two  o'clock,  called  to  my  servant  to  bring  me 

A  great  •'  ~ 

relief  from  something  to  drink.  I  had  brought  sufficient  water 
with  me  for  Herr  von  Tiedemann  and  myself.  Who 
shall  describe  my  feelings  of  joy  on  my  distinctly  hearing 
Buana  Mku's  answer,  and  recognising  that  my  deafness  had 
entirely  left  me,  for  I  could  hear  as  well  as  ever  ! 

I  started,  in  consequence,  early  the  next  morning,  in  the 
brightest  spirits ;  leaving  the  Lindi  chain  far  behind  us,  we 
reached  Matako.  It  was  said  to  be  a  twelve  hours'  march  from 
here  to  Msanga,  the  nearest  place  where  water  was  to  be  had.  I 
therefore  determined  to  alter  our  ordinary  method  of  proceeding,. 


EMIN  PASHA   REPORTED  AT  2IPUAPUA.  533 

and  gave  orders  for  marching  at  midnight,  that  I  might  reach 
Msanga  at  noon  on  the  following  day.     We  certainly 

...  An  early 

overslept  ourselves  and  missed  the  midnight  horn-,  so  start  for 
that  we  could  not  leave  Matako  before  three  a.m.;  but    °*"^^' 
as  the  distance  proved  to  comprise  a  march  of  only  ten  hours 
instead   of  twelve,    we    reached    our    destination    soon    after 
midday. 

These  night  marches  possessed  one  advantage,  in  that  I 
could  comfortably  be  carried  over  the  ground  in  a  litter,  a  pro- 
ceeding for  which  in  the  daytime  I  had  never  patience,  even 
when  I  felt  unwell.  When  morning  dawned,  I  generally  called 
a  halt  in  some  camping-ground,  and  set  tire  to  the  straw  huts,  at 
which  we  warmed  ourselves,  and  in  the  glow  of  which  we  par- 
took of  our  breakfast.  Then  came  the  best  part  of  our  march. 
During  a  few  hours  thereupon  the  donkeys  were  requisitioned, 
and,  as  the  country  bordering  the  west  of  Ugogo  became  gradu- 
ally more  fertile  and  attractive,  that  march  to  Msanga  was  one 
of  the  pleasantest  during  the  whole  of  our  return  journey. 

At  Msanga  we  found  a  great  Wanjamwesi  caravan,  that  had 
come  from^Mpuapua.     The  chiefs  immediately  came  a  caravan 
to  salute   me.      They  carried  the  German  flag,  and  German^^ 
gave  us  some  news  from  the  coast,  though  their  tidings  ^^•s- 
were  somewhat  confused. 

"  We  had  heard  that  you  had  defeated  the  Massais,  and  now 
the  Germans  are  waiting  for  you  at  Mpuapua.     There,  ^.^.^^^ 
too,  is  Min  Pasha,  who  has  brought  loads  for  you,  and  of  Emin 
with  whom  you  are  to  return  to  the  Nyanza." 

"  Do  you  mean  to  tell  me  that  Emin  Pasha  is  at  Mpuapua  .P" 

"  Yes,  in  Mpuapua  is  Min  Pasha,  and  they  have  cattle  as 
the  sand.     There  is  a  large  house  of  stone." 

These  tidings  were  so  altogether  surprising,  that  they  fur- 
nished subject  for  conjecture  and  conversation  during  the  whole 
day,  and  yet,  in  my  inmost  heart,  I  was  little  disposed  to  credit 
them.  I  expected  to  find,  as  usual,  that  it  would  turn  out  to 
be  some  mistake.  But  this  time  I  was  to  find  myself  in  the 
wrong. 

June  17th  brought  us  but  a  short  march.     We  now  entered 


534  XEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

the  countrj'  of  Mahamba,  and  reached  a  place  called,  after  the 
Sultan,  Yagallo.  Kwam  Yagallo  is  situated  on  the  south-western 
Arrival  ^^°P®  °^  ^^^  Pauieda  hills,  that  separate  Ugogo  proper 
atKwam  from  Marenga  Mkali,  and  which  we  had  to  march 
*^°'  '  round  on  the  southern  side.  Here  we  found  a  number 
of  caravans,  which  had  come  from  the  east  under  the  German 
flag.  The  camp  was  pitched  near  a  watercourse,  whose  contents, 
though  somewhat  brackish,  were  drinkable.  Marenga  Mkali 
means  "  salt  water,"  and  takes  its  name  from  the  mineral  nature 
of  the  waters  in  this  district. 

Hardly  had  the  tents  been  pitched,  when  my  people  suddenly 
Appearance  reported,  "  Massais  !  Massais  !  " 

ofMassaiB.  g^^g  euough,  on  the  other  side  of  the  camp,  were 
the  Massais,  driving  their  herds  to  the  river  to  water  them. 
Here  they  were  again  at  last,  our  good  old  friends ;  certainly 
a  little  more  slovenly  in  appearance  than  the  proud  sons  of 
Leikipia.  The  Massais  here,  in  northern  Ugogo,  also  till  the 
soil,  and  have  certainly  a  little  degenerated  through  the  admix- 
ture of  Bantu  blood  ;  but  in  outward  appearance,  and  especially 
in  the  way  in  which  they  were  armed,  they  bore  a  strong 
resemblance  to  their  brothers  of  the  north. 

"  Come,  over  to  this  side  of  the  river,"  I  shouted  to  them. 
"  Bring  me  presents,  and  you  shall  receive  presents  from  me." 

"  "Who  are  you  ?  "  they  replied. 
"  Kupanda        "  I  am  Kupauda  Sharo,  and  we  have  defeated  the 
quaintlnM '  Massais  of  Leikipia." 
declined.  u  ^^  .  g^g^y  y^^  ^p^^  ^^^^  g^^j^^  ^^^  ^^  ^^^j^  remain 

upon  this  side.     We  are  afraid  to  come  over." 

This  open  declaration  was  received  by  my  people  with  a  roar 
of  laughter  ;  but,  inviting  as  the  fine  herds  of  Massai  cattle 
were  to  the  Somalis  and  to  ourselves,  I  considered  it  more 
prudent  to  refrain  from  attacking  the  Massais  on  the  other  side. 
By  two  o'clock  they  had  marched  away  again  into  the  steppe 
with  their  herds. 

That  night  we  were  really  on  the  march  soon  after  mid- 
night. We  were  going  into  the  Marenga  Mkali  country,  and 
had  left  a  long  stretch  behind  us  before  daybreak.     After  we 


THE  MARENGA   MKALI ;—KA2rPI.  535 

had  breakfasted  we  once  more  pushed  on,  and  we  entered  the 
mountain  district  that  separates  Ugogo  from  Usagora,  The 
our  road  winding  through  attractive  scenery,  over  easy  ^klii^^ 
mountain  passes.     We  were  repeatedly  met  by  caravans  country. 
of  Wanjamwesi,  who  greeted  us  with  a  respectful  "  Jambo " 
or    "  Morning."     At  times  the   view  opened  into  the  Massai 
steppe  on  the  left.     Once,  an  eminence  was  pointed  out  to  me 
by  Salim,  on  the  north-eastern  horizon,  as  Kilima  Ndscharo,  but 
1  cannot  undertake  to  say  if  he  was  right. 

All  that  morning  we  marched  through  glorious  mountain 
scenery.  The  air  was  cool,  for  a  breeze  in  the  valleys  continually 
refreshed  us.  We  came  upon  great  herds  of  giraffes  and  zebras. 
Thus  we  continued  our  march  until  mid-day.  Here  the  road 
wound  down  a  far-stretching  mountain  slope  to  the  left.  We 
turn  off  towards  the  north,  and  see  before  us  a  narrow  mountain 
pass  ;  the  sides  of  the  hills  are  clothed  with  fields  of  Arrival  at 
maize  and  mtama.  We  are  at  Kampi,  the  Marenga  ^ampi. 
Mkali  lies  behind  us,  and  we  have  only  one  short  day's  march  to 
get  to  the  German  station  in  Mpuapua.  Here,  too,  we  found 
more  caravans  encamped.  The  traffic  all  along  this  route  is 
very  considerable.  I  know  no  German  high-road  on  which 
there  is  such  a  regular  and  uninterrupted  personal  and  vehicular 
traffic,  back  and  forwards,  as  upon  this  caravan  route  from 
Ugogo  to  the  coast.  The  number  of  people  who  annually  pass 
this  way  must  be  reckoned  by  hundreds  of  thousands. 

On  arriving  at  Kampi  my  first  proceeding  was  to  write  a 
letter  and  send  it  by  some  messengers  to  "The  gentlemen  at  the 
station  in  Mpuapua,"  telling  them  that  I  should  arrive  there  at 
half-past  ten  on  the  following  morning. 

The  water  was  more  than  two  miles  distant  from  our  camp, 
so  on  that  day  we  had  to  wait  until  evening  before  we  could  get 
a  meal.  After  supper,  so  strong  a  wind  blew  from  the  ^  ^^^^^^^_ 
east,  through  the  valley  where  we  were  encamped,  that  ^^^^^^^""^^ 
the  tent  soon  began  to  bend  to  one  side,  and  was  twice 
blown  down.  As  there  was  not  the  least  prospect  of  the-wind 
lulling  during  the  night,  I  had  to  make  up  my  mind  to  have 
my  camp  bed  placed  in  th«  open  air,  sheltered  only  by  a  few 


J36  NEW  LIGHT   ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

bushes,  and  there  to  compose  myself  to  sleep ;  but  I  slept  none 
the  less  sound]_y  after  all,  for  the  fatigues  of  the  previous  night 
and  of  the  da}-  had  thoroughly  exhausted  me. 

And  now  the  day  was  breaking  for  our  last  march  before 
meeting  with  German  countrymen.  Full  of  excited  expectation 
^.    ,  ^    ,  we    started,  first  to  climb  the  mountain  pass  before 

Pmal  day's  '  ^ 

march  to  us,  from  wheuce,  we  were  told,  the  valley  of  Mpuapua 
^"  '  was  to  be  seen.  I  hastened  onwards  with  a  few  men 
of  the  column.  The  descent  was  an  easy  one.  The  bush 
gradually  developed  into  a  forest,  and  we  continued  to  proceed 
further  towards  the  east.  All  at  once,  soldiers  in  the  uniform 
of  the  German  protecting  troop  met  us,  and  saluted  us.  Con- 
sequently we  must  now  be  close  to  the  station.  There — one 
more  turn  of  the  road,  and  on  the  heights  ot  Mpuapua  we 
descried  the  black,  white,  and  red  flag. 

Our  hearts  beat  higher  at   this  sight,  and,  in  a  state  of 

joyful  excitement,  we  pursued  the  path,  which  wound  round 

.    ,        the  north  side  of  the  station.     Meanwhile  we  must 

Friends  at 

the  German  have  been  seen  from  thence,  for,  behold,  some  gentle- 
station.  .  T    r.  ,,  , 

men  issued  irom  the  gateway. 

Soon,  one  of  them,  who  was  mounted  on  a  donkey,  galloped 
quickly  towards  me.  He  jumped  down,  and,  taking  off  his  hat, 
greeted  me  warmly.  This  was  Herr  Janke.  Behind  him  came 
two  gentlemen  on  foot.  These  were  the  officer  in  charge  of 
the  station.  Lieutenant  von  Billow,  and  Lieutenant  Langheld. 
"  Emin  Pasha  is  here,  also."  A  gentleman  under  the  middle 
height,  wearing  a  simple  blue  uniform  and  helmet,  now  came 
forward.  A  black  beard  framed  in  a  face  whose  deep 
wrinkles  told  of  long-continued  mental  strain.  This  was 
Emin  Pasha  ! 

"May  I  introduce  Dr.  Peters  to  your  Excellency  .P  "  said 
Herr  von  Biilow. 

Meeting  "  ^  ^"^  ^'^^^  S^^^  *°  ^^^  7°^,"  replied  Emin  Pasha, 

■with  Emin  taking  my  hand  and  stroking  it.     "  I  do  not  know  how 

I  am  to  thank  you  for  all  you  have  done  for  me." 

I  was  so  much  agitated  at  meeting  my  countrymen  and  at 

encountering  Emin  Pasha,  which  was  after  all  a  surprise  for 


^n, 

^¥ 

■v-^ 

ff 

,;..  fr 

s" 

'  .'/ 

•  \ 

/  '■■; 

'V\ 

I 

1 

-" 

MEETING   WITH  EMIN  PASHA.  537 

me,  that  I  was  scarcely  able  to  speak ;  therefore  I  contented 
myself  simply  with  pressing  Emin  Pasha's  hand. 

"  What  an  expedition  you  have  behind  you,"  continued  the 
Pasha.  "  None  of  us  believed  it  possible  that  you  could  make 
your  way  through.     But  now,  come  into  my  tent." 

"  Where  is  Herr  von  Tiedemann  P "  asked  Herr  von 
Billow,  who  was  an  old  comrade  of  Tiedemann's  in  the  cadet 
corps. 

"Herr  von  Tiedemann  is  following  with  the  caravan,"  I 
replied. 

"  Then  I  will  ride  on  a  little  way  to  meet  him,"  said  Herr 
von  Billow ;  and  he  took  his  leave. 

Meanwhile,  Emin  Pasha,  still  holding  me  by  the  hand,  led 
me  to  his  tent.  Emin  Pasha's  camp  was  pitched  under  gigantic 
trees,   upon  the  north  side  of  Mpuapua.     Above  the 

.      ^  .        .        ^       ^  Eucamp- 

tent  little  flags  fluttered  gaily  m  the  breeze,  and  they  ment  of 
bore,  to  my  astonishment,  the  same  initials  as  our 
own  flags,  P.  E.  P.  E.  (Peters's  Emin  Pasha  Expedition).  Emin 
Pasha  smilingly  explained.  "  You  see  we,  too,  bear  the  device 
of  your  expedition."  He  had  taken  over  the  tents  which  I  had 
left  behind  at  Zanzibar.  In  front  of  Emin's  tent  waved  the 
large  black,  white,  and  red  flag,  flanked  on  either  side  by 
a  gun.  His  Soudanese  soldiers  were  drawn  up,  and  saluted  us 
by  presenting  arms. 

"Now,  what  can  I  give  you  in  the  way  of  refreshment .P 

Will  you  take  claret,  or  port,  or  a  glass  of  beer,  or Dr. 

Stuhlmann,"  he  called  out  to  a  delicate-looking  gentleman  now 
approaching  us,  "  here  we  have  Dr.  Peters." 

I  greeted  Dr.  Stuhlmann,  whom  I  had  known  in  Zanzibar, 
and  who  was  just  getting  about  again  after  a  severe  attack  of 

^^^'^^-  Meeting 

"Now,  Doctor,  you  will  let  us  have  a  bottle   of  with  Dr. 

„      .  -,^^11  stuhlmann. 

sekt,  will  you  not  ?  "  said  Emm  to  Dr.  Stuhlmann. 

Emin  Pasha  had  arranged  his  tent  very  tastefully,  having 
pushed  his  bed  into  the  background,  and  placed  a  table  and 
chairs  in  the  front.  The  table  was  covered  with  writing 
materials;  books,  too,  were  at  hand.     Above  the   table  hung 


538  KEW  LIGHT   OX  DANK  AFRICA. 

carefully-prepared  birds'  skins.  The  whole  almost  conveyed 
the  impression  of  some  German  professor's  study. 

"  And  now,  Dr.  Peters,"  Emin  Pasha  went  on,  "  something 
that  will  greatly  interest  you.  Prince  Bismarck  is  no  longer 
Imperial  Chancellor." 

"  ^Yhat !  Prince  Bismarck  no  longer  Imperial  Chancellor  ! 
„,    ,.       Is  he  dead  P  " 

startling 

news  from         "  Xo,  he  is  uot  dead.     He  has  resigned." 
"^"P^-  u  ^^(j  ^Yio  is  his  successor  ?  " 

"  General  von  Caprivi,"  he  replied.  "  I  may  inform  you," 
he  continued,  "  that  His  Majesty  the  Emperor  appears  to  take 
the  greatest  interest  in  our  colonial  affairs.  In  consequence  of 
this  interest,  he  has  commissioned  me  to  lead  an  expedition 
in  the  Lake  Country,  in  order  to  restore  German  influence 
there.  But  I  should  wish  thoroughly  to  talk  over  with  you  the 
manner  of  executing  this  commission,  as  you  are,  at  this 
moment,  among  all  of  us  the  person  best  acquainted  with  the 
state  of  things  in  the  Lake  Country.  But  we  will  speak  more 
about  that  to-morrow  ;  and  now,  ask  me  what  you  wish  to  know 
further." 

''  What  has  become  of  Count  Herbert  Bismarck  ?  " 

"  He  retired  at  the  same  time  as  his  father,  and  Freiherr  von 
Marschall  has  succeeded  him  as  Secretary  of  State  for  Foreign 
Improved  Affairs.  Altogether,  you  will  find  the  position  of  affairs 
lor  AMcln  '^^  Europe,  as  well  as  the  feeling  about  your  expedition, 
coionisa-  much  altered.  We  all  work  with  renewed  zeal,  full  of 
confidence  for  the  future  of  our  undertaking,"  said 
Emin  Pasha. 

I  now  related  to  Emin  Pasha  my  arrangements  with  Uganda. 
Emin  "^^  interrupted  me  several  times  by  throwing  in  the 
Pasha's  ap-  word,  "  Charming,  charming  !  "  turning  with  a  pleasant 

probation.  -i  t^       oi      i  n 

smile  to  Dr.  Stuhlmann. 
Meanwhile  Herr  von  Tiedemann  came  up,  and  was  likewise 
welcomed  by  Emin  Pasha  in  the  heartiest  manner.  I  im- 
parted to  Herr  von  Tiedemann  the  intelligence  I  had  just 
received,  that  Prince.  Bismarck  was  no  longer  Chancellor  of 
the  Empire. 


IMPORTANT  STATION  OF  MPUAPUA.  53& 

"  I  know  it,"  replied  Herr  von  Tiedemann  shortly.  "  I've 
full  information." 

His  friend  Billow  had  already  told  him  the  startling  news. 

For  about  three-quarters  of  an  hour  we  thus  sat  in  lively 
conversation  in  Emin's  tent.  I  gave  orders  that  my  expedition 
should  establish  its  camp  close  to  his  ;  and  thus,  through  all  the 
hollow  between  the  hill  of  Mpuapua  and  the  mountain  slope  in 
the  north,  waved  the  German  flags  and  streamers. 

"  Gentlemen,  it  is  time  for  dinner,"  said  Herr  von  Bulow. 
"May  I  beg  you  to  step  across  to  the  station .P  I  have  also 
invited  both  the  gentlemen  from  the  French  Mission,  Pere 
Schynse,  a  German,  and  a  French  Father,  so  we  shall  have  a 
large  party  to-day.  I  will  now  make  you  and  these  gentle- 
men acquainted  with  each  other." 

He  rose,  and  Emin  Pasha  remained  behind  for  a  short  time 
to  make  his  toilette.  JBy  this  time  the  two  gentlemen  from  the 
French  Mission  had  come  up,  to  whom  we  were  like-  xhe  station 
wise  introduced.  As  soon  as  the  Pasha  was  ready,  we  »*  ^P^apua. 
proceeded  up  a  path  into  the  station  of  Mpuapua.  It  is  very 
solidly  built  of  rock  stones,  and  has  a  tower  more  than  two 
yards  in  thickness.  Herr  von  Billow  was  likewise  having  a 
well  dug  within  the  station,  and  the  work  was  being  carried 
on  sturdily. 

This  settlement  is,  in  truth,  an  achievement  worthy  of  all 
respect.  It  may  be  confidently  asserted,  that  Mpuapua  is 
entirely  impregnable,  if  properly  defended,  with  regard  a  strong 
to  any  attack  where  the  assailants  are  not  provided  p""*'""- 
with  artillery.  I  also  believe  that  the  neighbourhood  is  healthy. 
It  is  certainly  very  windy  in  Mpuapua,  and  accordingly  colds 
must  be  guarded  against ;  but,  with  proper  precautions,  people 
will  certainly  enjoy  better  health  there  than  in  the  damp  and 
heavy  air  on  the  coast.  We  looked  at  the  various  buildings, 
and  soon  entered  a  solidly-built  dining-room,  where  a  banquet 
awaited  us  that  might  be  considered,  according  to  African 
ideas,  worthy  of  Lucullus,  inasmuch  as  it  included  European 
vegetables  of  various  soi*ts.  In  addition,  there  were  good 
strengthening  dishes  of  meat,  from  captured  herds  of  oxen,  and 


:a()  kew  light  ox  dark  Africa. 

European  delicacies  iu  the  way  of  preserves.  The  gentlemen  of 
the  station  had  also  been  kind  enough  to  save  up  all 
uouBban-  they  possesscd  in  the  way  of  drinks  for  the  last  few 
'^'^^*'  weeks,  against  our  arrival,  so  that  in  this  department 
we  had  such  a  choice  as  could  hardly  have  been  exceeded,  on 
similar  occasions,  in  Europe  itself. 

When  we  had  satisfied  the  first  cravings  of  hunger,  Emin 
Pasha  stood  up,  rang  his  glass,  and  welcomed  us  in  words 
full  of  heartiness,  alluding  to  the  rumours  that  had  been  rife, 
concerning  our  destruction,  and  repeating  that  he  had  not  con- 
sidered it  possible  to  reach  his  province  from  the  east. 

I  returned  thanks  to  Emin  Pasha,  expatiating  on  his  work 
on  the  Upper  Nile,  and  declaring  that  we  had  gladly  endured 
every  toil  and  danger,  in  the  hope  that  we  might  be  of  use  to 
our  great  "African"  fellow-countryman.  Herr  von  Tiedemann 
proposed  the  health  of  the  chief  of  the  station,  Herr  von  Billow, 
and  so  the  meal  went  on  ;  for  the  first  time  for  a  year,  we  were 
feasting  among  our  compatriots,  and  naturally  in  a  very  exalted 
and  excited  frame  of  mind.  For  a  long  time  we  sat  thus 
Ajoviai  en- together,  and  the  sun  was  already  sinking  when  I  rose 
campment.  ^^  ^^-^^  ^  ^^^^^^  ^^-^^^  Emin  Pasha  through  the  camp,  to 

see  if  all  my  people  had  been  well  lodged.  This  proved  to  be 
the  case.  They  were  all  feasting,  in  the  highest  spirits  at 
having  reached  the  strong  fortress  of  the  Badutschi.  Now,  they 
considered,  all  trouble  and  care  was  over  and  past,  and  the 
German  Emin  Pasha  Expedition  was  virtually  ended. 

The  evening  found  us  all  assembled  again  at  the  common 
table  ;  the  conversation  of  the  dinner  was  resumed,  and  notably 
I  had  more  opportunity  than  in  the  morning  to  make  the  ac- 
quaintance of  Father  Schynse,  with  whom  I  continued  sitting 
for  a  long  time  after  the  other  gentlemen  had  betaken  them- 
selves to  their  rooms  for  the  night. 

Next  morning,  before  six  o'clock,  I  had  already  repaired  to 
consuwa-  the  camp  of  Emin  Pasha,  to  hold  a  practical  council 
uon  with  ^^-^^^  jj^j^-^  jj^  company  with  Lieutenant  Langheld  we 
Pasha.  •  breakfasted  in  the  open  air,  and  then  I  retired  with  Emin 
Pasha  into  his  tent,  for  a  closer  consultation.    I  began  by  laying 


DESIGNS  AND  PROCEEDINGS   OF  EMIN  PASHA.  541 

before  him  all  my  treaties  from  Uganda  and  Lake  Victoria,  of 
which  he  afterwards  caused  copies  to  be  taken.  I  called  his 
attention  to  the  probability  of  an  attempt  by  the  English  party 
in  Uganda,  assisted  by  Jackson,  to  force  Muanga  to  overturn 
these  arrangements,  and  to  make  others  in  the  British  interests. 
To  safeguard  the  German  interests  in  Uganda,  pending  the 
decision  of  His  Majesty  the  Emperor,  Emin  Pasha  determined 
at  once  to  send  messengers  thither,  to  announce  to  the  king 
that  at  the  command  of  His  Majesty  the  German  Emperor  he 
would  come  to  Lake  Victoria,  and  to  exhort  Muanga  to  make 
no  new,  arrangements  of  any  kind  differing  from  the  treaties  I 
brought  with  me,  until  the  decision  of  the  Emperor  should  be 
known.  The  messenger  who  carried  this  letter  started  for 
Ukumbi  on  the  very  next  day. 

When  this  had  been  done,  we  talked  together  of  the  state 
of  things  in  the  Equatorial  Province.     Emin  Pasha  drew  my 
attention  to  the  fact  that  he  was  now  in  the  service  of  _  .   . 
the  German  Empire,  but  that  if  through  any  circum- the  German 

IT  ■•       -I      •  ^  •         iTx        -i  1.     service. 

stances  he  should  get  back  into  his  old  territory,  ne 
was  prepared  to  undertake  for  that  territory  the  same 
responsibilities  which  Muanga  had  taken  upon  himself  for 
Uganda,  and  to  work  in  the  sense  of  these  arrangements  on  the 
Upper  Nile.  Before  he  decided  anything  in  this  direction,  he 
said,  he  must  naturally  be  made  aware  of  the  position  taken 
up  by  the  Imperial  Government,  and  he  hoped,  if  possible,  to 
see  me  again  in  Africa. 

On  this  subject  also  a  document  was  set  up  and  completed. 

As  a  third  point,  we  discussed  the  object  that  lay  before 
Emin  Pasha's  expedition.  Emin  asked  me  to  give  him 
accurate  particulars  concerning  the  countries  in  the  west,  and 
asked  my  advice  respecting  what  he  might  have,  in  the  first 
instance,  to  do  to  fulfil  the  commission  entrusted  to  The  occu- 
him  by  His  Majesty.  I  could  only  counsel  him,  to  ^aborVL 
the  best  of  my  knowledge  and  convictions,  that  before  ^i=«^- 
doing  anything  else  he  should  at  once  occupy  Tabora,  or 
some  other  suitable  place  in  its  vicinity. 

"  Then  that  is  also  your  view,"  said  Emin  Pasha.     "  That 


.542  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

coincides  entirely  with  my  own  opinion,  and  with  what  Father 
!-ichynse  has  told  me." 

I  replied  :  "  I  am  even  in  a  position  to  make  you  an  offer, 
in  the  name  of  INIonseigneur  Hirth,  that  in  case  you  are 
prepared  to  occupy  Tabora,  the  Catholic  Mission  will  willingly 
place  their  station,  Kipullpulla,  there  at  your  disposal,  for 
your  objects.  On  the  question  of  the  practical  advantages  of 
occupying  Tabora,  in  the  first  instance,  there  is  no  necessity 
for  much  debate.  Tabora  is  the  central  point  of  all  the  Arab 
influence  for  the  entire  Lake  territory.  Whoever  is  master  of 
Tabora  has  in  his  hands  the  key  to  the  three  lakes, 

Importance  .  n    rrt   ^  •         i.        j2 

of  the  poei-  and  therefore  the  occupation  of  i  abora  is  the  first 
thing  that  has  to  be  done  on  the  part  of  the  Germans. 
If  you  should  decide  first  to  establish  a  station  by  one  of 
the  lakes,  you  would,  after  all,  only  bring  about  local  results. 
With  Tabora  you  produce  an  effect  upon  all  the  three  lakes 
together." 

"  I  am  very  glad,"  said  Emin  Pasha,  "  that  we  are  so 
entirely  of  the  same  opinion  upon  this  point,  and  I  am  deter- 
mined also  to  act  in  this  sense.  As  it  appears  you  have,  after 
all,  had  a  very  severe  fight  in  Ugogo,  I  shall  request  Herr  von 
Billow  to  attach  himself,  with  a  part  of  his  force,  to  my 
expedition  into  the  interior.  You  would  oblige  me  if  you 
would  now  give  me  some  particulars  on  the  condition  of  Ugogo 
specially." 

"  I  shall  take  the  liberty  of  working  out  for  you  a  very 
accurate  record  of  routes,  in  which  the  peculiar  question  of 
water  supply  in  that  country  shall  be  specially  treated." 

"  And  what  places  on  Lake  Victoria,"  continued  Emin, 
"  would  you  recommend  to  me  for  the  establishment  of  a 
station  P  " 

"  I  would  recommend  your  Excellency  with  this  view  to 
inspect  Bukoba,  in  the  south  of  the  Kagera.  The  southern 
Advantages  margin  of  the  lake  is  flat  and  unhealthy  ;  the  western 
of  Bukoba.  ][3Qi.(jgj.  ^g  fertile,  and  as  I  think  more  healthy,  as  it 
lies  higher.  Bukoba  appears  to  me  to  offer  all  the  conditions 
necessary  for  the  establishment  of  a  station." 


EMIN'S  ACCOUNT  OF  TRANSACTIONS    WITH  STANLEY.    543 

Emin  Pasha  noted  down  all  these  details  verj^  carefully ; 
and  it  was  past  ten  o'clock  by  the  time  we  went  up  together 
into  the  station,  where  we  at  once  proceeded,  with  the  help  of 
the  other  gentlemen,  to  reduce  the  important  discussion  of  the 
morning  to  writing.  Thereupon  I  wrote  letters  to  Monseigneur 
Hirth  and  Mons.  Lourdel  in  Uganda  ;  and  thus  we  had  a  very 
satisfactory  day's  work  behind  us  when,  towards  one  o'clock, 
we  sat  down  to  luncheon.  During  this  meal  there  came  an 
English  missionary,  from  the  neighbouring  English  ^^  English 
Mission  station  of  Kisokwe,  an  amiable,  unassuming  ■"""""^'^y- 
gentleman,  who  enquired  with  great  interest  concerning  our 
adventures  in  the  north.  He  remained  sitting  beside  me  the 
whole  afternoon,  after  the  other  gentlemen  had  retired  for  a 
short  midday  sleep.     This  was  the  second  day. 

After  four  o'clock  I  betook  myself  to  Emin  Pasha,  who  now 
gave  me  a  number  of  particulars  concerning  his  expedition  and 
Stanley's  proceedings  on  the  Upper  Nile.  To  my  great  . 
astonishment,  I  here  received  the  full  confirmation  of  carried  off 
what  I  had  already  heard,  here  and  there,  in  the  shape  ^  *"  ^^" 
of  rumours,  by  Lake  Victoria,  namely,  that  Stanley  had  carried 
off  Emin  Pasha  actually  by  force  from  the  Equatorial  Province. 

Emin  Pasha  told  me  :  "  When  Stanley  came,  for  the  first 
time,  to  Lake  Albert,  he  would  have  been  lost  if  Casati  and  I 
had  not  gone  to  him.  Stanley  did  not  come  to  us,  we  went  to 
him.  He  did  not  reach  the  Equatorial  Province  any  criticism  of 
more  than  you  did.  When  he  first  arrived  at  Kiwalli,  11111%^ 
and  found  no  tidings  of  us,  he  did  not  venture  to  make  iigs- 
an  advance  along  Lake  Albert  to  Wadelai,  but  went  back  for 
four  months,  to  bring  up  a  boat.  Then  the  expedition  came 
back,  and  we  sought  them  out,  brought  them  provisions  and 
clothing,  and  in  this  way  the  expedition  was  saved  from 
destruction." 

Exactly  in  the  same  manner  did  Signor  Casati  express 
himself  to  me,  a  few  months  later. 

"  Then  Stanley  began  to  press  me  to  give  up  my  post.  He 
told  me  the  Khedive  had  sent  him  hither,  for  the  definite 
purpose  of  delivering   to  me  the   order  commanding  me   to 


544  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

evacuate  tlie  Equatorial  Province.     Stanley  gave  me  to  under- 
stand that  he  was  empowered,  in  case  of  need,  to  carr)^  me  away 
from  the  Province  by  force.     At  that  time  my  position 

Emin's  posi-  .nn  i  x  j.i     ±  •£■  t 

tion  on  the  ou  the  Upper  Nile  was  still  oi  such  a  nature,  that  it  i 
Upper  Nile.  -^^^  ^^^  ammunition  and  stuff  goods  left,  I  could  have 
maintained  myself  permanently  there.  Not  until  afterwards, 
and  prompted,  if  not  directly  by  the  intrigues,  at  any  rate  by 
the  appearance  of  the  English,  my  people  put  themselves  in 
opposition  to  me,  and  in  fact  solely  on  the  ground  that  they 
would  not  go  away  out  of  their  Province.  I  am  convinced  that, 
if  I  returned  there  now,  with  an  equipment,  they  would  all 
rejoicingly  bid  me  welcome.  But  if  Stanley  had  a  commission 
from  the  Khedive  to  lead  me  away  from  there,  he  has  certainly 
not  been  loyal  to  the  Khedive  ;  for  a  few  days  later  he  came 
„^     r  .V  with  an  offer  from  the  King  of  the  Belgians,  that  I  should 

Offer  of  the  ^  " . 

King  of  the  hoist  the  flag  of  the  Congo  State  m  the  Equatorial 
e  gians.  p^.Q^^ice,  and  that  King  Leopold  offered  me  a  contribu- 
tion of  £1,000  per  month  for  the  expenses  of  the  government. 
After  a  short  time  he  advised  me  not  to  accept  such  an  offer  ; 
for  that  the  Congo  State,  from  which  he  just  then  came,  was  in 
a  condition  of  great  confusion  and  distraction.  Besides,  he  said, 
it  was  well  known  to  Emin  how  King  Leopold  had  formerly 
treated  him  (Stanley).  Therefore  Stanley  could  not  counsel 
him  to  close  with  this  offer,  but  he  would  make  him  a  third 
proposal.  A  British  East  African  Company  was  about  to  push 
forward  towards  the  Upper  Nile,  from  Mombas.  Stanley 
accordingly  proposed  that  Emin  should  enter  the  service  of  this 
company.  Emin  was  to  march  with  all  his  troops  round  Lake 
Victoria,  under  the  command  of  Stanley,  to  Kawirondo.  There 
they  would  find  out  a  suitable  island  on  Lake  Victoria  on  which 
The  British  Emin  Pasha  could  fortify  himself.  Then  Stanley 
African  would  hasteu  back  to  Mombas,  to  bring  up  reinforce- 
company.  j^ents  for  him.  Every  officer  of  Emin  Pasha  and  all 
his  men  would,  on  entering  the  service  of  the  British  East 
African  Company,  receive  the  same  salary  they  had  had  from 
the  Egyptian  government.  Emin  Pasha  might  himself  nego- 
tiate with  the  company  in  London,  respecting  his  own  salary.'' 


EMIN  AND    THE  BRITISH  EAST  AFRICAN   COMPANY.     545 

After  my  return  to  Europe,  I  naturally  read  with  lively 
interest  Stanley's  account  of  these  propositions,  which  are  also 
to  be  found  in  his  book  "In  Darkest  Africa,"  but  in  another 
connection,  and,  aboA^e  all,  with  other  surroundings.  Especially 
does  Stanley  assert  that  he  made  this  last  proposal  to  Emin 
Pasha,  not  in  the  name  of  the  British  East  xVfrican  Company, 
but  only  as  a  proposal  emanating  from  himself. 

In   contrast   to  this,   Emin  Pasha  repeatedly  asserted,  in 
Mpuapua,  in  the  most  positive  manner,  that  Stanley,  to  provide 
for  the  case  that  Emin  might  be  inclined  to  accept  this  proposal, 
had  brought  with  him  from    London  an  agreement  Discrepancy 
signed  by  the  founders  of  the  British  East  African  sunless 
Company,  officially  drawn  up  and  with  seals  attached,  l^^j^^"^ 
at  the  foot  of  which  agreement  Emin  had  only  to  sign  accounts, 
his  name  to  conclude  the  affair.     This  narrative  of  Emin's  is  to 
be  implicitly  credited,  inasmuch  as  he  had  no  reason  at  all  for 
stating  what  was  incorrect,  whereas  it  will  be  understood  that 
the  British  East  African  Company  had  reasons  subsequently, 
when  Emin  had  entered  the  German  service,  to  'disconnect  itself 
from  the  fact  that  a  proposal  had  been  made  to  him. 

"However,"  continued  Emin,  "even  this  last  proposal,  the 
acceptance  of  which  Stanley  forced  upon  me,  half  by  threats,  he 
did  not  carry  out.  When  we  had  arrived  in  the  south  of  Lake 
Victoria,  he  suddenly  found  that  he  did  not  care  to  lead  me 
round  the  lake  and  to  take  me  to  Kawirondo,  from  whence,  as 
had  been  expressly  agreed,  I  was  to  reconquer  my  Emincom- 
territory  of  Unjoro  and  Uganda  with  the  reinforce- ^„f/„^^  *° 
ments  Stanley  was  to  bring  up ;  on  the  contrary,  he  Stanley, 
suddenly  declared  that  I  must  go  with  him  to  the  coast,  to  com- 
plete the  affair.  He  said  that  without  the  express  command  of 
the  Queen  of  England  he  could  not  mix  himself  up  with  the 
troubles  in  Uganda.  In  this  manner  I  have  been  compelled  to 
march  with  him  to  the  coast,  whereas  originally  the  question 
was  only  that  of  a  transfer  of  my  capital  from  Lake  Albert  to 
Lake  Victoria." 

"  To  interfere  in  Uganda  " — this  was  Emin's  opinion,  which 
he  repeatedly  expressed—"  Stanley  did  not  venture  ;  as  indeed 

35 


546  NEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

in  general  in  the  conduct  of  his  expedition,  for  the  details  of 
which  I  have  the  greatest  admiration,  he  often  made  wide  cir- 
cuits, to  keep  out  of  the  way  of  the  tribes  he  considered  as 
warlike.  This  accounts  for  the  wonderful  bends  and  corners  to 
be  found  in  the  route  of  his  expedition." 

Emin  frequently  made  the  remark  :  "  If  at  any  time  Stanley 
suffered  from  a  slight  illness,  as,  for  instance,  from  catarrh, 
Emin's  es  ^®  '^s.ed  to  be  kept  Avaiting  for  weeks  in  one  spot.  On 
timate  of  the  Other  hand,  no  particular  notice  was  taken  of  the 
state  of  health,  good  or  bad,  of  the  other  members  of 
the  expedition.  But  Avhat  distinguishes  this  man  is  the  extra- 
ordinary presence  of  mind  and  the  merciless  resolution  with 
which  he  carried  out  what  he  had  made  up  his  mind  to  do.  If 
any  unexpected  incident  occurred,  very  little  time  elapsed  before 
Stanley  had  resolved  upon  his  measures,  which  were  then  put  in 
execution,  let  the  cost  be  what  it  might." 

I  must  here  declare  that,  for  several  reasons,  I  cannot  con- 
sider this  eulogistic  opinion  concerning  Stanley  as  the  leader  of 
an  expedition,  which  Emin  Pasha  expresses,  especially  with 
Dr.  Peters's  I'egard  to  his  last  undertaking,  as  warranted.  Respect- 
opmion.-  ^jjg  ^YiQ  presence  of  mind  displayed  by  Stanley  in  certain 
dangerous  situations  I  can  give  no  sort  of  opinion ;  but  his 
arrangement  of  the  expedition  as  a  whole,  and  his  decisions  at 
important  turning-points  of  the  enterprise,  appear  to  me  in  a 
high  degree  incomprehensible,  I  may  even  say  confused.  It  is 
incomprehensible  to  me  why  Stanley,  to  get  to  Emin,  did  not, 
in  1887,  take  the  more  convenient  route  from  the  eastern  coast. 
What  he  says  in  favour  of  the  western  route  does  not  in  any 
way  apply.  I  was  afterwards  told  that  in  this  particular  a  wish 
had  been  expressed  by  the  Congo  State,  in  whose  service  Stanley 
still  was  in  the  year  1887.  That  would  render  his  general  plan 
Eeiations  intelligible.  But  then  his  connection  with  Tippoo  Tib 
■witii         becomes  incomprehensible  to  me.      Stanley  seeks  to 

Tippoo  Tib.  ... 

explain  this  connection  on  the  ground  that  Tippoo  Tib 
was  too  dangerous,  and  therefore  he  could  not  leave  him  behind 
as  an  enemy.  But  then  Tippoo  Tib  was  in  Zanzibar  in  1887, 
and  was  brought  to  the  Upper  Congo  by  Stanley  himself.    Stanley 


DR.  PETERS' S   CRITICISM  OF  STANLEY'S  EXPEDITION.    547 

knew  Tippoo  Tib  as  a  faithless  man.  A  man  of  that  description 
is  not  generally  left  to  guard  one's  house,  nor  is  it  usual  to  give 
any  post  of  confidence  to  him. 

But  most  incomprehensible  of  all  appears  to  me  the  going 
back  to  bring  up  the  iron  boat  after  the  first  arrival  at  Lake 
Albert,  which  cost  him  four  months,  when  he  might  have  been 
with  Emin  Pasha  in  fifteen  days.     Precisely  from  the  point  of 
view  of  an  African  expedition,  I  cannot  at  all  understand  why 
Stanley  did  not  at  least  put  himself  into  communication  by 
letter  with  Emin  Pasha  before  he  went  back,  and  when  he  did 
go  back,  why  he  did  not  at  once  try  to  put  himself  in  touch 
with  his  rear-guard.    There  appears  in  these  movements  indecision 
of  Stanleys,  supposing  him  to  be  unable  to  give  a  proceed-^'' ° 
better  reason  for  them  than  that  cited  in  his  book  of  ^"s^- 
travels,  a  degree  of  indecision  which  I  am  at  a  loss  to  reconcile 
with  the  general  picture  I  have  formed  for  myself  of  this  man  ; 
partly,  too,  from  personal  acquaintance.     Through  these  move- 
ments the  period  of  the  expedition  was  lengthened  out  to  three 
years,  which  certainly  increased  the  cost  of  the  undertaking  in 
a  disproportionate   degree.     The   same   rule   holds  good  with 
African  travels  as  with  every  other  thing,  that  they  are  most 
complete  when  the  greatest  possible  results  are  achieved  with 
the  smallest  possible  means. 

It  is  in  this  case  as  in  solving  mathematical  problems — the 
simplest  and  readiest  way  is  certainly  also  the  best  one.     Looked 
at  from  this  point  of  view,  Stanley's  undertaking  ap-  .^^^^^f^g. 
pears  to  me   like  working   an  equation  with  totally  s^"^°[^*^^ 
unnecessary  circuitous  ways  and  formulas.     And  what 
was  achieved  in  the  end  by  this  great  expenditure  in  money 
and   men?     The    Equatorial    Province   is    deserted;    neither 
Uganda  nor    Wadelai    has   been    brought   under    the  British 
Protectorate  ;  and,  on  the  other  hand,  Emin  Pasha,  who  was 
formerly  a  sincere  friend  of  England,  has  been  turned  into  an 
equally  sincere  opponent— at  least,  of  Stanley  personally.     That 
is  the  final  outcome  of  an  undertaking  which  was  announced  as 
calculated  to  serve  the  interests  of  civilisation  and  of  Chris- 
tianity  in    Central    Africa,    and,    as    certainly   appears   from 


548  XEW  LIGHT   OX  DARK  AFRICA. 

8tanle3' s  third  proposal,  at  least  aimed  at  getting  the  territories 
on  the  EJpper  Nile  included  in  the  sphere  of  British  influence. 
Neither  the  ostensible  nor  the  real  object  has  been  attained. 
Effect  on  Even  the  Mahdi  himself  could  not  have  been  more 
civilisation,  injurious  to  the  civilising  of  the  Upper  Nile  than 
Stanle}'  has  been  in  realit}-.  But  as  regards  the  establishment 
of  the  English  in  these  countries,  Stanley,  by  refusing  the  assist- 
ance of  JNIuanga,  and  by  avoiding  co-operation  with  Jackson's 
expedition,  has  contributed  to  convert  the  sentiment  in  Uganda 
into  positive  enmity  to  England.  This  matter  Stanley  may 
settle  with  those  who  commissioned  him.  These  facts  must, 
however,  be  kept  in  view,  if  a  just  estimate  is  to  be  formed  of 
the  value  of  his  last  expedition. 

It  was  not  till  I  reached  Mpuapua  that  I  learned  how  it  was 
Stanley's  undertaking  that  frustrated  our  own  plans  with  regard 
Effect  in  to  the  Equatorial  Province.  Emin  Pasha  has  cor- 
Dr!  Peters^  roborated  me  in  the  assertion  that  even  with  the  small 
expedition,  powers  we  possessed  we  might  have  materially  assisted 
him ;  inasmuch  as  we  should,  as  I  have  already  stated,  have 
established  for  him  communications  with  Uganda,  and  conse- 
quently with  the  German  East  African  colony.  If  Stanley  had 
stuck  fast  in  the  swamps  of  the  Aruwimi,  Emin  Pasha  would  at 
this  day,  according  to  all  human  calculation,  be  still  in  Wadelai 
in  a  perfectly  secure  position.  The  whole  territory  in  the  north 
of  Lake  Yictoria  would  be  a  firm  buhvark,  under  Christian 
influence,  which  in  time  could  have  been  extended  step  by  step 
down  the  Nile  against  the  Mahdi  influence,  whereas  now  the 
Arab  influence  extends  to  the  northern  boundary  of  Uganda ; 
and  Uganda  itself  is  torn  by  the  confusion  of  the  strife  of 
parties,  and  its  development  is  hindered  to  an  immeasurable 
extent.  Therefore  it  must  be  stated  that  Stanley's  enterprise 
has  been  absolutely  hurtful  in  its  eff'ects  for  the  general  interests 
of  humanity,  and  for  the  special  interests  of  England. 

It  can  be  understood  that  observations  such  as  these,  which 
we  naturally  made  during  our  meeting  in  Mpuapua,  were 
always  attended  by  painful  feelings  in  Emin  Pasha  and  in 
myself;  but  we  united  in  the  resolution,  even  if  much  had  been 


EMIN  PASHAS   QUALITIES  AXD   CHARACTERISTICS.      549 

lost,  to  hold  fast  to  the  idea  of  winning  back  in  common  what 
had  been  lost,  in  one  way  or  another.  We  entertained  Hopes  for 
the  hope  of  gaining  for  this  object  the  sympathies  not  *^e*'it'ire- 
only  of  the  continental  Powers,  but,  in  the  end,  those  of  the 
English  Government  likewise.  In  Mpuapua  we  were  not  yet 
aware  of  the  contents  of  the  new  arrangements  between  Germany 
and  England,  which  have  materially  delayed  all  these  things  in 
the  north  of  Lake  Victoria. 

Meanwhile,  I  had  an  opportunit}^,  in  the  days  we  passed 
together,    of  studying    the    purely    human    qualities  of  Emin 
Pasha  somewhat  more  closely,  to  note  his  truly  German  „. 
thoroughness   m    the  scientific  labours  he  prosecuted  of  Emin 

•  Pasha 

incessantly,  and  also  the  natural  goodness  of  heart  that 
speaks  out  of  his  whole  being.  Often  when  we  were  talking  of 
the  most  important  things,  his  bird  shooter,  who  was  always  at 
work,  brought  him  a  bird  he  had  killed  ;  which  Emin  would 
take  in  his  hands  with  a  kind  of  haste  to  examine  accurately, 
register  it,  and  lay  it  aside  for  skinning.  All  his  works,  includ- 
ing his  journals  of  travel,  showed  the  greatest  closeness  of 
observation  and  accuracy  of  insertion.  In  this  particular  there 
is  certainly  a  decided  difference  between  Emin  Pasha  and 
Stanley.  While,  wherever  the  maps  rested  on  Stanley's  declara- 
tions alone,  I  used,  after  a  few  trials,  as,  for  instance,  at  Uweri- 
weri,  simply  to  put  them  aside,  I  should  accept  as  authentic, 
without  trial,  every  particular  to  which  Emin  Pasha  has  put 
his  name.  His  provident,  almost  fatherly  kindness  of  ^^.^ 
heart  towards  us  showed  itself  in  a  series  of  instances  amiable 

1  •         q.ualities. 

that  were  really  touching.  Though  we  were  hastening 
to  the  coast,  and  he,  on  the  other  hand,  was  going  for  an 
indefinite  time  into  the  interior,  he  would  not  rest  until  we 
had  accepted  from  him  a  number  of  presents,  for  the  greater 
comfort  of  our  situation.  Clothes,  linen,  perfumes,  drinks,  all 
these  things  were  literally  pressed  upon  us,  and  always  in  a 
very  delicate  manner,  and  with  friendly  smiles.  Though  his 
saddle-horse  had  fallen,  he  was  almost  angry  when  for  a  long 
time  I  protested  against  receiving  one  of  his  handsome  Muskat 
donkeys  as  a  present.     At  the  very  last  moment,  when  I  took 


550  ^.^EW  LIGHT   ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

leave  of  him,  and  was  looking  around  for  a  stick  for  my  donkey, 
he  forced  his  o-\vn  riding-whip  upon  me,  and  to  my  remonstrance, 
"But,  your  Excellency,  then  you  will  have  none!"  he  replied, 
"  Oh,  I  shall  manage,  I  shall  find  something." 

For  everything  that,  on  the  other  hand,  we  were  able  to  do 
for  him,  his  gratitude  was  simply  heart-moving.  I  left  with 
„   ,.,  ^     him  some  scientific  instruments,  and  also  a  few  books. 

Gratitude  '  ' 

for  small  amoug  Others  a  few  volumes  of  Arthur  Schopenhauer, 
which  seemed  especially  to  please  him. 

In  the  few  days  of  our  intercourse  I  was  not  in  a  position 
to  form  an  opinion  concerning  Emin  Pasha  as  a  politician  or 
an  organiser  ;  in  that  respect  his  deeds  must  speak  for  them- 
selves. But  to  the  man  Emin  Pasha  both  Herr  von  Tiedemann 
and  myself  became  sincerely  attached,  and  M'e  shall  always 
think  upon  him  with  grateful  recollection.  On  those  days  of 
Mpuapua  rests  a  halo  of  pleasant  heartiness,  which  always 
arouses  a  wish  once  more  in  life  to  experience  such  hours 
and  days. 

On  the  afternoon  of  June  21st  we  had  our  photographs 
taken  by  Herr  Janke,  in  front  of  Emin's  tent,  in  a  group,  and 
Photo-  *^^^  Emin  Pasha  and  myself  separately.  Our  break- 
grapMc      ing  up  was  fixed  for  the  following  day.      We  were 

portr&its.  .  - 

going  to  the  east  and  to  the  coast,  and  Emm  Pasha 
wanted  to  commence  his  march  upon  Ugogo.  Once  more  we 
passed  a  pleasant  evening  together.  Next  morning  at  six  o'clock 
we  were  all  in  our  camps,  making  ready  for  the  march. 

At  half-past  six  the  two  expeditions  started  simultaneously, 
with  waving  flags  and  drums  beating,  in  opposite  directions. 
On  the  previous  day  I  had  been  able  to  supply  Emin  Pasha 
with  twenty-seven  porters  from  among  my  Wasukuma,  a 
circumstance  of  which  he  was  glad,  as  a  number  of  his  porters 
had  run  away  on  the  coast.  We,  on  the  other  hand,  departed 
from  Mpuapua  well  provided  with  all  kinds  of  eatables, 
especially  with  bread  and  vegetables.  The  gentlemen  remained 
together  half  an  hour  longer ;  then  came  the  time  for  saying 
good-bye.  Herr  von  Tiedemann  had  received  from  Herr  von 
Bulow  a  riding  ox  as  a  present,  and  I  mounted  Emin  Pasha's 


NORTHERN  AND  SOUTHERN  ROUTES   TO  BAGA3I0Y0.    551 

white  donkey.  "  Greetings  to  German}-,  and  greetings  to  Lake 
Victoria,  and  may  Ave  soon  meet  again !  " — and  then 
there  was  a  shaking  of  hands,  and  without  many  more  from  Emn 
words  I  rode  off  after  my  column,  that  had  gone  on  in  ^^^^^' 
advance,  towards  the  east.  At  a  turn  of  the  way  I  looked 
round  again,  and  once  more  my  eyes  rested  on  the  short, 
peculiar  figure  of  Emin  Pasha.  Hats  are  waved ;  and  behind 
me,  like  a  fair  dream,  Mpuapua  and  my  experiences  there 
sink  back  together  into  memories  of  the  past. 

Over  the  further  march  to  the  coast  I  may  pass  lightly,  for 
the  route  from  Mpuapua  to  Bagamoyo  is  well  known.  I 
followed  the  southern  road  through  Usagara.  I  confess  that 
I  wanted  to  make  the  last  part  of  my  journey  as  easy  to  myself 
as  I  could.  There  were  no  more  perils  to  be  encountered,  and 
I  was  anxious  not  to  arrive  in  an  exhausted  state  at  the  coast, 
where  the  danger  of  attacks  of  fever  is  especially  strong.  The 
northern  way  over  Mamboyo  is  steeper,  but  a  few  The  north- 
days  shorter ;  the  southern  way  is  the  easier  and  southern 
pleasanter  one.  Every  marching  day  was  now,  to  a  "^""^es. 
certain  extent,  a  holiday  for  us.  Eating  and  drinking  we  had 
in  plenty ;  and  already  in  Tubugne,  our  first  camping-place,  I 
received  letters  from  the  coast,  informing  me  that  seven  more 
loads  of  European  dainties,  notably  sausages,  preserves,  and 
champagne,  had  been  sent  up  the  country  for  us  by  our  friends 
in  Zanzibar,  and  that  we  might  expect  every  day  to  receive 
them.  Though  they,  in  fact,  only  reached  us  seven  days  before 
our  arrival  at  the  coast,  the  very  expectation  of  them  was  an 
enjoyment.  So  material  does  man  become,  when  for  many 
months  he  has  been  restricted  to  the  barest  necessaries  of  life. 

From  our  second  camping-place,  Mlale,  I  sent  forward  to 
Zanzibar  my  last  report  for  Europe,  and  a  telegram,  in  which 
I  especially  related  the  fight  at  Ugogo,  and  my  meeting  with 
Emih  Pasha. 

At  midday  on  June  25th,  from  the  lofty  plateau  in  the 
north  of  the  Mkondogna  river,  my  eyes  rested  for  the  Arrival  at 
first  time  again  with  delight  on  glorious  Usagara,  and  ^»*s*'*- 
my  heart  was  so  stirred  that  tears  came  into  my  eyes,  when  I 


,3.J2  yEW  LIGHT  OX  DARK  AFRICA. 

thought  that  we  had  heen  privileged,  six  years  ago,  to  gain  this 
land  for  Germany.  My  thoughts  wandered  back  to  the  hours 
I  had  passed  in  the  Mkondogna  valley  with  my  friend  Jtihlke, 
and  of  the  world  of  adventures  and  emotions  that  lay  for  me 
between  the  December  days  of  1884  and  the  July  of  1890. 

In  slow  and  easy  marches  we  now  moved  on,  down  the 
charming  Mkondogna  valley,  which  again  reminded  me  vividly 
of  the  Rhine  or  the  Neckar,  as  it  had  done  six  years  ago. 

On  the  26th  I  marched  past  Mninin-Sagara.  At  all  corners 
the  German  flag  was  now  waving,  the  people  came  out  of  the 
gates,  and  persisted  that  they  remembered  me  from  my  last 
stay  here,  which,  however,  I  did  not  believe.  We  encamped  in 
the  same  spots  where  my  first  expedition  had  pitched  its  tents. 
TheArabsof  On  Juue  27th,  when  I  entered  Mkondogna,  the  Arabs 
Mkondogna.  j-gsident  there  prepared  a  solemn  reception  for  us. 
They  came  in  a  body  to  meet  us,  conducted  us  to  the  Barasa, 
brought  us  fruit  and  milk,  and  when  we  had  taken  leave  of  the 
first  Arab,  we  had  to  go  to  a  second,  a  certain  Buana  Sani,  to 
partake  of  a  breakfast  which  the  Catholic  missionaries  in 
Loanga  had  sent  down  for  us.  Father  Home,  to  whom  I  had, 
from  Kedar,  sent  tidings  of  our  approach,  sent  some  pupils  of 
the  Mission  before  us  to  Mkondogna,  who  presented  us  with 
a  large  bouquet,  and  brought  us  a  hearty  letter  of  welcome, 
with  an  invitation.  We  were  on  no  account  to  pass  by  Loanga 
without  partaking  of  the  hospitality  of  the  Mission. 

On  the  afternoon  of  June  27th  we  therefore  rode  with 
a  few  men  to  Loanga,  where  we  found  a  warm  welcome,  and 
stay  at  ^  quantity  of  news  from  Europe.  I  ha(Ve  forgotten  to 
Loanga.  remark  that  in  Tubugne  we  had  received  our  European 
mail  communications  from  the  German  Emin  Pasha  committee, 
and  letters  from  our  dear  ones  at  home,  the  reading  and 
re-reading  of  which  gave  these  last  days  of  the  expedition 
a  peculiar  charm. 

June  28th,  a  Saturday,  we  spent  agreeably  in  the  pleasant 
station  of  Loanga,  which  is  built  neatly  and  tastefully  by  the 
Loanga  brook  on  the  slope  of  a  mountain,  from  whence  the 
prospect  opens  on  the  mountains  of  Ukami.     We  spent  hours 


TRAVELLERS   RELAX. i'f/nxs   AXf)    EXJOYMEXTS.  5.53 

there   in  the    shady    verandali,   tclliDii,-    the    narrative    ot    onr 


UsAGARA  Landscape. 


expedition,   or   hearini^'  ahont  EuroiK',  sittinii'  over  a  olass  of 
chiret   and  water,  hjoking  out  upon   the  ravishingly  lieautiful 


5.34  NEW  LIGHT  OX  DARK  AFRICA. 

landscape.     Father  Home  is  a  Germac,  a  Hessian,  if  I  do  not 

mistake,  and  a  solid  and  amiable  man.     On  the  29th  we  stayed 

to  dinner  at  the  Mission.    I  had  just  sent  the  order  for  starting 

the  expedition  to  Farhani,  towards  Koberens;a,  when 

Herr  von  '  .  "" 

Tiedemann  Herr  von  Tiedemann  was  seized  with  an  attack  of 
again.  ^^^.^^. .  ^^  j  advised  him  to  remain  in  Loanga  till  it  had 
passed  over.  I  would  wait  for  him  in  Mrogro,  another  mission 
of  the  Catholics.  I  was  obliged  to  march  away,  because  the 
expedition  was  already  on  the  road.  So  I  had  now  to  make 
four  days'  marches  alone  through  the  Mkata  plain  as  far  as 
Mrogro.  When  I  was  encamped  in  Wiansi,  a  day's  march  short 
of  Mrogro,  I  heard  that  a  German  expedition  was  lying  in  the 
neighbourhood.  I  sent  Hussein  with  the  announcement  that  I 
Another  was  here  in  Wiansi ;  and,  in  the  evening,  when  I  was 
expedition,  already  in  bed,  Herr  de  la  Fremoise,  the  chief  of  the 
expedition,  which  was  bound  to  Mpuapua,  came  galloping  up 
on  horseback.  He  brought  with  him  a  bottle  of  champagne 
and  another  of  absinthe,  and  we  remained  together  in  animated 
conversation  until  late  in  the  night.  Next  morning  we  break- 
fasted together  in  the  open  air,  and  then  I  marched  onward  to 
Mrogro,  crossing  the  Lugerengere.  From  this  side  the  moun- 
tain plateau  of  Ukami  appears  rising  massively,  and  on  its 
slope  lies  Mrogro,  the  most  beautiful  of  all  the  stations  I  met 
with.  This  morning  I  received  the  seven  loads  of  European 
dainties,  close  to  Mrogro,  and,  somewhat  weakened  in  body,  I 
Short  resolved  to  make  a  break  of  seven  days  in  my  journey, 
holiday  at  here  in  beautiful  Mrogro,  so  that  I  might  get  to  the 
coast  in  full  health  and  strength,  and,  likewise,  that  we 
might  enjoy  the  good  things  in  the  packages,  especially  the 
sausage  and  preserves,  in  all  tranquillity  of  spirit.  The  value 
we  put  upon  these  things  was  a  very  different  one  from  our 
estimation  of  them  in  Europe.  We  quite  forgot  that  when 
once  we  got  back  to  Zanzibar  or  to  Europe,  we  should  pro- 
bably be  able  to  buy  sausage  and  beans,  carrots  and  cabbage, 
every  day. 

In  Mrogro,  also,  I  found  the  heartiest  M^elcome  from  Father 
Karst  and  Brother  Basilid,  two  Lorrainers,  who  speak  German 


MROGRO  STATION ;— ENCAMPMENT  IN  PIGIRO.  555 

quite  fluently  ;  and  in  the  plantations  of  this  station,  which  have 
quite  a  European  appearance,  I  passed  a  quiet  and  reflective 
week. 

On  July  5th  Herr  von  Tiedemann  arrived,  safe  and  sound. 
We  had  a  really  capital  kitchen,  to  which  Brother  Basilid  him- 
self attends  ;  the  coast  was  close  before  our  eyes,  and  we  also 
found  some  new  reading  in  the  station,  among  other  things  some 
European  periodicals.  I  felt  especial  interest  in  the 
coffee  plantations  of  this  place,  which  Brother  Basilid  Basiiid's 
has  laid,  utilising  in  the  work  a  rushing  mountain  ^  ^"^  *  "°°' 
stream.  They  not  only  supplied  the'  station  itself,  but  also  all 
the  remaining  Catholic  mission  houses,  with  coffee,  and  Basilid 
thinks  they  will  very  soon  have  a  surplus  for  trading. 

I  should  recommend  anyone  who  proposes  to  establish 
plantations  in  Eastern  Africa,  to  betake  himself  to  Mrogro  for 
awhile,  to  learn  there.  Mrogro  is  in  reality  a  pattern  for  the 
German  East  African  territory. 

On  July  10th  I  at  length  started  again,  to  accomplish  the 
remainder  of  the  journey  in  long  marches.  I  took  with  me 
Herr  Neuhaus,  an  hospital  attendant  from  the  Protect-  March  to 
ing  Corps,  who  had  been  left  behind,  sick  of  a  fever,  by  B^&^^^oy"- 
Emin  Pasha,  and  whom  I  caused  to  be  carried  along  with  us  to 
the  coast.  We  journeyed  towards  Bagamoyo  by  the  well-known 
route.  We  were  in  excellent  health,  and  the  expectation  that 
in  a  few  days  we  should  have  left  behind  us  all  the  toils  and 
dangers  of  this  expedition,  out  of  which,  for  months  together, 
we  had  had  no  hope  to  emerge  alive,  made  every  heart  beat 
high. 

On  July  15th  I  encamped  in  Pigiro,  about  two  miles  from 
the  ferry  across  the  Rufu.  I  heard  that  a  German  official  was 
stationed  here,  and  at  once  sent  my  servant  Selek  and  the 
Somali  Mohammed  Ismael  to  him,  to  announce  our  arrival. 
They  came  back  and  reported  that  the  white  man  was  suffering 
from  fever  to-day,  but  sent  his  greetings  and  some  fowls. 

Next  morning  early,  we  went  on  towards  Mtone.  The  way 
led  through  fresh  grass,  which  was  still  damp  from  last  night's 
rain.      After  we  had  marched  for  an  hour  I  saw  the  Rufu  I 


o.jfi  XEW  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

knew  !so  well  glimmering  on  the  right.  On  the  opposite  bank  I 
noticed  a  very  large  shed  and  a  European  tent.  I  had  a  gun 
The  ferry  fired,  and  immediately  some  boatmen  appeared,  and 
atKufu.  passed  the  ferry  boat  across  to  us  by  a  chain;  and 
directly  afterwards  a  white  man  came  out  in  front  of  the  tent. 
I  got  into  the  boat  with  a  few  of  my  people,  and  when  we  were 
in  the  middle  of  the  river,  the  white  man  cried  out,  from  the 
opposite  side, — 

"  Are  you  Herr  Dr.  Peters  ?  " 

I  answered,  "  Yes,  certainly  ;  and  who  may  you  be  ?  " 

"  I  am  Bohndorf." 

"  I  am  exceedingly  glad  that  you  should  be  the  first  man  I 
meet  here." 

Herr  Bohndorf  welcomed  me  heartily.  I  had  made  his 
acquaintance  a  year  and  a  half  previously  in  Egypt,  and  after- 
wards  I  had  seen  him  again  in  Bagamoyo.  He  led  me 
Bohndorfs  into  his  tent  and  opened  a  bottle  of  champagne,  which 
had  been  sent  there,  he  told  me,  for  our  arrival.  Herr 
von  Tiedemann,  who  came  in  afterwards,  found  us  already 
engaged  in  animated  conversation  upon  our  expedition  and  the 
occurrences  on  the  coast.  Unfortunately  my  travelling  com- 
panion was  once  more  attacked  by  fever,  so  that  he  preferred  to 
rest  for  a  few  hours  at  Herr  Bohndorfs,  and  I  had  to  traverse 
alone  the  short  distance  that  still  remained  between  us  and 
Bagamoyo.  Herr  Bohndorf  told  me  the  gentlemen  had  intended 
to  meet  us  at  Mtoni,  and  I  should  probably  find  them  on  the 
way  there.  So  with  a  heart  beating  high  with  expectation,  I 
marched  along  the  rest  of  the  way,  first  through  brushwood  and 
then  through  the  plantations  of  cocoa  palms  which  already 
belong  to  Bagamoyo.  Suddenly  the  place  stood  revealed  before 
us.  To  the  right,  along  the  cocoa  palm  grove,  we  marched,  with 
The  German  <^^^^^  beating.  When  we  came  in  sight  of  the  German 
station  at  Station  I  Ordered  my  soldiers  to  fire  three  volleys. 
Then  the  gates  opened,  and  all  the  gentlemen  came  out 
to  us  ;  in  front  was  Herr  von  Paerbrand,  acting  as  deputy  for 
the  chief  of  the  station,  who  was  absent  at  the  time  on  an 
expedition.     I  could  hardly  speak  from  joyful  emotion,  when  I 


NEWS   OF  POLITICAL    TRANSACTIONS  IN  EUROPE.        557 

greeted  these  gentlemen.  M}-  soldiers  were  quartered  in  out- 
houses, and  I  was  taken  into  the  salon  of  the  station.  On  the 
way,  Herr  Paerbrand  informed  me  of  particulars  of  the  arrange- 
ment with  England   by  which  the  gains  achieved  bv  ^ 

T   •  1       p    T      ^  "^   Important 

our  expedition  north  oi  the  first  degree  of  south  latitude  news  from 
had  been  transferred  to  England,  in  return  for  which  ""^''' 
Germany  received  Heligoland  ;  that  the  Protectorate  of  Zanzi- 
bar had  further  been  given  to  England,  in  exchange  for  which 
the  German  East  African  coast  had  been  definitely  ceded  to 
Germany. 

I  will  pass  in  silence  over  the  emotions  these  tidings  excited 
in  me.  I  remained  two  hours  in  the  salon  to  regain  my  com- 
posure, and  begged  the  gentlemen  to  say  nothing  more  on  the 
whole  subject.  Here,  in,  the  room,  I  found  a  great  Despatches 
number  of  telegrams  from  Europe,  congratulating  me  *^°™  ^°^^- 
on  my  return,  and  among  these  there  were  letters  from  my 
relations  and  friends. 

Telegrams  of  this  kind  I  received  from  the  German  Emin 
Pasha  committee,  from  the  German  Colonial  Company,  from 
Karl  von  der  Heydt,  from  Wissmann,  from  various  divisions  of 
the  Colonial  Company,  from  the  German  East  African  Com- 
pany, and  also  from  Fritz  Krupp  and  other  dear  friends  and 
acquaintances. 

When  I  had  in  some  degree  recovered  from  the  perturbation 
of  mind  into  which  I  had  been  thrown  by  the  tidings  received, 
and  by  reading  these  proofs  of  sympathy,  Herr  von  Paerbrand 
came  in  again  to  carry  me  oif  to  a  banquet  to  which  were 
invited  all  the  German  gentlemen  in  Bagamoyo,  among  a  genial 
them  the  Austrian  Consul  from  Bombay,  a  very  amiable  ^""^''• 
and  sympathetic  gentleman,  who  was  on  a  visit  in  Bagamoyo ; 
besides  my  friends  from  the  Mission,  Father  Etienne  and  Brother 
Oskar,  and  all  the  officers  and  officials  of  the  Protecting  Corps 
and  of  the  German  East  African  Company.  Among  others 
appeared  Herr  von  Sievers,  the  chief  of  the  Maritime  Division 
of  the  Imperial  Commissariat,  who  had  come  over  with  Herr 
Domarsky  from  Zanzibar,  in  the  most  civil  manner,  to  put  the 
Munchen  at  my  disposal  for  my  passage  to  Zanzibar. 


558  yE]V  LIGHT  ON  DARK  AFRICA. 

It  was  a  most  cordial  gathering  at  that  dinner,  the  wine 
was  not  spared,  and  the  general  feeling  was  one  of  festivity. 

In  the  afternoon  came  Herr  von  Tiedemann,  who,  to  my 
great  satisfaction,  was  entirely  cured,  and  was  able  to  join  us  at 
supper.  As  he  was  an  old  friend  of  Herr  von  Paerbrand,  he 
resolved  to  stay  a  lew  days  in  Bagamoyo.  We  settled  that  M'e 
would  go  together  to  Europe  by  the  French  mail  line,  and  at 
nine  o'clock  the  next  morning  I  took  a  hearty  leave  of  all  the 
Crossing  to  gentlemen  to  cross  to  Zanzibar  on  the  Munchen,  of 
Zanzibar,  -vyhjch  Herr  von  Sievers  himself  took  command  on  that 
day.  I  took  the  whole  of  my  little  caravan,  which  had  now 
shrunk  to  thirty-six  men,  across  with  me,  and  also  the  Austrian 
Consul  and  Herr  Domarsky.  The  Countess  Blucher,  the  Presi- 
dent of  the  Women's  Union,  was  also  on  board,  so  that  we  had 
an  agreeable  passage  over  to  Zanzibar. — It  was  an  ennobling 
sight  for  me  when  the  continent  of  Africa,  on  which  I  had  been 
employed  exactly  one  year,  one  month,  and  one  day  in  the 
carrying  out  of  the  expedition,  began  to  sink  below  the  western 
horizon.  It  seemed  almost  as  if  a  great  gulf  were  lying  between 
me  and  my  former  life  in  Europe.  The  year  1889-90  had  been 
so  rich  in  emotions  and  impressions  of  every  kind,  that  it 
appeared  to  contain  a  space  of  many  years,  even  of  a  lifetime. 
I  seemed  to  be  quite  a  different  man  from  the  one  who  had 
gone  off  in  June  1889  from  Bagamoyo  to  the  south,  to  begin 
the  Emin  Pasha  Expedition.  The  continent  of  Africa  disappeared 
in  a  hazy  twilight,  and  soon  the  island  of  Zanzibar  arose  before 
us.  Then  I  recognised  all  the  old  places  which  I  had  so  often 
visited  in  the  year  1887.  Presently  the  masts  of  the  ships 
became  visible  to  us,  then  the  houses  and  the  flags  of  the 
consulates.  We  passed  close  by  the  German  men-of-war  the 
Carola  and  the  Schwalbe,  the  gentlemen  on  board  giving  us  a 
friendly  salute.  The  anchor  was  dropped,  we  stepped  into  the 
boats,  and  soon  we  stood  on  dry  land,  on  the  well-known  spot 
next  to  Oswald's  house.  I  immediately  betook  myself  to  the 
German  Imperial  Commissariat,  where  the  officer  in  charge 
at  that  time,  Captain  Richelmann,  welcomed  me  in  the  most 
friendly  manner,  and  invited  me  to  join  him  at  his  dinner-table. 


HOME  BY  STEAMER   TO  EUROPE.  559 

Chance  ordained  that,  living  with  Captain  Richelmann  and  Herr 
von  Sievers,  I  found  myself  in  the  same  house  that  „,     ,, 

•     -,  -,     J.  1  , .   .  The  old 

I  had  occupied  heiore  the  expedition  started.     But  m  quarters  in 
this  domicile,  too,  I  could  hardly  recognise  myself  for   *"''^  ^^' 
the  same  man,  so  deeply  and  emphatically  had  the  impressions 
of  the  year  worked  upon  my  inner  life. 

In  Zanzibar  I  passed  some  happy  days  in  the  German 
colony.  As  I  received  intelligence  from  Berlin  which  rendered 
my  speedy  appearance  there  desirable,  and  as  Lieutenant- 
Captain  von  der  Gr5ben,  whose  acquaintance  I  had  made  on 
board  the  Schwalhe,  informed  me  that  the  new  English 
steamers,  which  ran  as  far  as  Naples,  were  very  comfortably 
fitted  up,  I  asked  Consul-General  Michahelles  to  put  himself 
in  communication  with  the  British  Consul-General  to  procure 
for  me  a  guarantee  for  an  unintercepted  voyage  home  on  one 
of  the  steamers  of  the  English  line.  But  here,  also,  public 
sentiment  seemed  to  have  undergone  a  change  ;  the  English- 
men met  us  in  the  most  obliging  way,  and  so,  on  the  Tuesday, 
on  board  the  British  steamer  Madura,  in  the  company  of 
Lieutenant-Captain  von  der  Groben,  I  commenced  my  ^^  ^^ . 
voyage  home  to  Europe.  Herr  von  Tiedemann  pre-  and  Ger- 
ferred,  after  all,  making  use  of  the  French  mail.  On 
August  9th  I  was  in  Naples;  on  the  15th  I  was  greeted  in 
Milan,  by  Herr  Oskar  Borchert,  in  the  name  of  the  Emin 
Pasha  committee;  on  the  18th,  at  Wildbad,  I  was  again  on 
German  territory ;  and  on  August  25th,  in  Juterbock,  at  the 
Anhalt  station,  I  was  heartily  welcomed  home,  after  an  absence 
of  exactly  a  year  and  a  half,  to  the  very  day. 

On  the  evening  before  my  departure  from  Zanzibar,  as  I 
was  standing,  after  taking  my  walk,  at  the  gate  of  the  German 
club,  I  had  the  pleasure  of  once  more  seeing  Admiral  a  few 

'  ^  n       1  •  j-T,  words  with 

Fremantle.     He  was  going  past,  towards  the  sea,  witn  Admiral 
one  of  the  British  captains,  when  he  caught  sight  of  ^""'^''*^*- 
me.     He  went  a  few  steps  further,  then  turned  round,  came 
towards  me,  and  said, — 

"  How  do  you  do.  Dr.  Peters  ?  I  must  congratulate  you  on 
the  successful  accomplishment  of  your  expedition." 


ado 


X!:w  Linirr  nx  dauk  afiuca. 


"  "Many  thanks." 

"You   have  a   iircat  work   licliind    yon.      It   rcqnirefl   nincli 
ent'i;uy  and  cdurauc  " 

"  Many  thanks  ;   yes." 

"  Yon  have  i'ound  many  diflicnlliL's  ''  "" 

"Especially  (.»n  the  coast." 

"  Yes,  I  know." 


APPENDIX. 


SUPPLEMENT   I. 

THE  GERMAN  EMIN  PASHA  COMMITTEE. 

AcKERMANN,  Privy  Court  Councillor,  Member  of  the  Reichstag, 
and  of  the  Saxon  Assembly  of  Estates,  Dresden. 

Aeendt,   Dr.,    Member   of  the   Executive  Committee,    Berlin 
(Secretary). 

Aknim,  Muskau,  .Count,  Member  of  the  Reichstag,  Muskau. 

Balan,  Von,  Land  Councillor,  Member  of  the  Executive  Com- 
mittee, Schlawe. 

Becker,  Fritz,  Dr.,  Worms. 

Behr-Bandelikt,   Count,   Chamberlain   of  H.M.  the   Emperor, 
Bandelin. 

Belou,  Von,  Landed  Proprietor,  Major  on  retired  list,  Member 
of  the  Executive  Committee,  Saleske. 

Bennigsen,  Von,  Upper  President,  Member  of  the  Reichstag, 
Hanover. 

BoKEMEYEE,  Dr.,  General  Secretary,  Berlin. 

BuECK,  H.,  General  Secretary,  Berlin. 

BussE,  M.,  Dr.,  Mining  Councillor,  Dortmund. 

Campe,  Von  H.,  Dr.,  Hanover. 

Christophersen,  Member  of  the  Executive  Committee,  Schleswig. 

Clausz,  Manufacturer,  Member  of  the  Reichstag,  and  of  the 
Saxon  Assembly  of  Estates,  Chemnitz. 

Cornelius,  F.,  Member  of  the  Council  of  the  German  Colonial 
Company  for  South-west  Africa,  Berlin. 

36 


562  APPENDIX. 

Cranach,  Von,  Government  President,  Hanover. 
Crede,  Dr.,  Court  Councillor,  Dresden. 
Credner,  Professor,  Leipzig. 

CuNY,  Von,  Privy  Councillor  of  Justice,  Member  of  the  Reich- 
stag, Member  of  the  Executive  Committee,  Berlin. 
Douglas,   Count   von.  Member   of  the  Executive  Committee, 

Aschersleben. 
Drigalski,  Von,  Lieutenant-General,  retired,  Berlin. 
DziEMDOwsKY,    Vou,    Member   of    the    Executive    Committee, 

Schloss  Meseritz. 
Fabri,  F.,  Dr.  (theological),  Godesberg. 
Fabri,  T.,  Dr.,  Hamburg. 
Friedberg,  Dr.,  Professor,  Member  of  the  Executive  Committee, 

Halle. 
Friederichsen,  L.,  Hamburg. 
Gerlich,    Dr.,    Land   Councillor,    Member   of  the    Executive 

Committee,  Schwetz. 
Grais,  Hub  de.  Count,  Privy  Government  Councillor,  Member 

of  the  Executive  Committee,  Berlin. 
Grimm,  Dr.,  Ministerial  President,  retired,  Karlsruhe. 
Grosse,  Rudole,  Dr.,  Strassburg  in  Elsass. 
Grosz,  Advocate,  Pforzheim. 
Guilleaume,  Cologne. 

GiJNTHER,  F.,  Commercial  Councillor,  Dresden. 
Hacke,  Count  von,  Rear-Admiral,  retired,  Berlin. 
Haniel,    Dr.,    Land    Councillor,    Member   of    the    Executive 

Committee,  Mors. 
Hansen,  Land  Councillor,  Member  of  the  Executive  Committee, 

Tondern. 
Hermann,  Prince  of  Hohenlohe-Langenburg,  Langenburg. 
Herwig,  Vice-President,  Member  of  the  Executive  Committee, 

Berlin. 
Heszler,  Government  Architect,  Erfurt. 
Heydt,  Carl  von  der.  Banker,  Elberfeld,  Treasurer. 
HoBRECHT,  Actual  Privy  Councillor,  Minister  of  State,  retired 

Member  of  the  Reichstag,  Berlin. 
Hofmann,  Von,  Minister  of  State,  Berlin,  First  Deputy  President. 


APPENDIX.  563 

Irmer,  Dr.,  Keeper  of  the  Royal  Archives,  Hanover. 
Jaekel,  Land  Director,  Member  of  the  Executive  Committee, 
Dantsic. 

Kaapcke,  Landed  Proprietor,  Member  of  the  Executive  Com- 
mittee, East  Prussia. 

Kardorff,  Von,  Member  of  the  Reichstag,  Wabnitz. 

Kennemann,  Landed  Proprietor,  Member  of  the  Executive 
Committee,  Klenka  (Province  of  Posen). 

Kreszmann,  Major,  retired,  Karlsruhe. 

Krupp,  F.  a..  Privy  Councillor  of  Commerce,  Essen. 

Langen,  Eugene,  Privy  Councillor  of  Commerce,  Cologne. 

Langekmann-Erlenkamp,  Baron  von.  Member  of  the  Executive 
Committee,  Lublin  (Province  of  Posen). 

LiNDEMAJSTN,  M.,  Dr.,  Bremen. 

LrvoNiiTs,  Vice-Admiral,  retired,  Berlin. 

Lucas,  Assessor,  retired.  Director  of  the  German  East  African 
Company,  Berlin. 

Lucius,  Privy  Councillor  of  Commerce,  Member  of  the  Execu- 
tive Committee,  Erfurt. 

LtJCKHOFE,  Manufacturer,  Member  of  the  Executive  Committee, 
Silesia. 

Maerckee,  Lieutenant,  Strassburg  in  Elsass. 

Mehnert,  Dr.,  President  of  the  Agricultural  Credit  Union  in 
the  Kingdom  of  Saxony,  Member  of  the  Reichstag,  and 
the  Assembly  of  Estates,  Dresden. 

Meister,  Landed  Proprietor,  Member  of  the  Executive  Com- 
mittee, Sangeran  by  Thorn. 

Minnigerode,  Freiherr  von,  Member  of  the  Executive  Committee, 
Rositten. 

Mirbach-Sorquitten,  Count  von.  Member  of  the  Reichstag, 
Sorquitten. 

MtJHL,  District  Judge,  Member  of  the  Executive  Committee, 
Segeberg. 

Nedden,  Zur,  Land  Councillor,  Member  of  the  Executive 
Committee,  Marienberg. 

Neubarth,  Landed  Proprietor,  Member  of  the  Executive 
Committee,  Wtinschendorf. 


564  APPENDIX. 

Netjbauer,  F.  a.,  Priv,y  Councillor  of  Commerce,  Magdeburg. 
NiETiiAMMEK,  Couiicillor  of  Commerce,  Member  of  the  Reichstag, 

and  of  the  Saxon  Assembl)-  of  Estates,  Krebsstein. 
Oppenheim,  Hugo,  Banker,  Berlin. 
O'Satald,  W.,  &  Co.,  Hamburg. 
Palesieux,   Von,  Major    and  Adjutant  of  H.R.H.  the  Grand 

Duke  of  Saxe-Weimar. 
Peters,  Carl,  Dr.,  Berlin,  President. 
Pilgrim,  Von,  Government  President,  Member  of  the  Executive 

Committee,  Minden. 
PoPELius,  Member  of  the  Executive  Committee,  Sulzbach. 
RiTTER,  Dr.,  General  Director,  Waldenburg  in  Silesia. 
RoBDER,  E.  von.  Chief  Master  of  Ceremonies,  Berlin. 
RoHLFS,  Gerhard,  Consul-General,  Weimar. 
RuMPFi,  Manufacturer,  Member  of  the  Executive  Committee, 

Schloss  Aprath  (Rhine  Province). 
Sachse,  Director  in  Imperial  Post  Office,  Berlin. 
ScHAEFFER,  G.,  Member  of  the  Executive  Committee,  Gorlitz. 
Schmidt,  Member  of  the  Executive  Committee,  Sangerhausen. 
ScHREiBER,  Member  of  the  Executive  Committee,  Wolkrams- 

hausen. 
ScHROEDER,  Dr.,  Landed  Proprietor,  Poggelow,  Second  Deputy 

President. 
ScHUXTZ-LupiTZ,  Member  of  the  Executive  Committee,  Member 

of  the  Reichstag  in  Lupitz  (Province  of  Saxony). 
ScHV^ARTZKOPF,    Von,   Member   of  the   Executive   Committee, 

Neustadt  in  Hanover. 
ScHVFEiNFURTH,  Dr.,  Professor,  Berlin. 
Simon,  Privy  Councillor  of  Government,  retired,  Berlin. 
Solms-Braunfbls,  Hermann,  Prince  of. 
Steinrijck,  Von,   Land  Councillor,  Member  of  the  Executive 

Committee,  Member  of  the  Eeichstag,  Seclow. 
Stengel,  Member  of  the  Executive  Committee,  Stassfurt. 
Steun,  Von,  Major,  retired,  Berlin. 
Teichmann-Logischen,  Von,  Lieutenant-General,  Berlin. 
Tiedemann,   E.    von.    Member   of  the   Executive   Committee, 

Bomst. 


APPENnLY. 


565 


TiEDEMANX,  Von,  Govenimeut  Pri'sidt'iit,  Crombera;. 

TRAiiM,  Member  of  the  Executive  Committee,  Hauover. 

Truppel,  G.,  Riidolstadt. 

TucHER,  Freiherr  von,  Government  Coimcillor,  Nilrnbero-. 

Uechtritz-Steinkirch,  Von,  Councillor  of  the  Kummerf,^ericht, 

Member  of  the  Executive  Committee,  Berlin. 
Ulbich,  J.,  Member  of  the  Reichstao-,  Pfreu^■stadt. 
Wagner,  J.,  Teacher  at  High  Scliool,  Berlin. 
Wessel,  Land  Councillor,  Member  of  the  Executive  Committee, 

Stuhm. 
Wettich,    Town     Representative,     ^Member    of  the   Executive 

Committee,  Havelberg. 
WiBEL,  Dr.,  Wiesbaden. 
Wied,  W.,  Prince  of,  Neuwied. 
WissMANN,  First  Lieutenant,  retired,  Berlin. 
WiTTENBRiNCK,  Higli  School  Teacher,  Bur^steinfurt. 


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566  APPENDIX. 


SUPPLEMENT  II. 

RELATIONS  WITH  ADMIRAL   FREUANTLE   AND  THE  BRITISH 

BLOCKADE. 

"  To  THE  Executive    Committee  of    the    German 
Emin  Pasha    Committee. 

"  I  have  the  honour  very  respectfully  to  report  the  following 
concerning  my  conference  with  Rear- Admiral  Fremantle,  which 
has  just  taken  place. 

"  It  lasted  about  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  and  was  in  a  high 
degree  interesting. 

"  Admiral  Fremantle  was  engaged  on  the  quarter-deck.  He 
immediately  received  me,  and  conducted  me  to  his  saloon. 

"  I  introduced  the  subject  of  the  prohibition  that  forbade  me 
to  visit  any  of  the  English  places,  and  my  Neoera  to  run  in  at 
any  of  them.  To  this  Admiral  Fremantle  replied,  in  the  first 
place,  with  some  lengthy  observations.  My  past  doings  in 
Eastern  Africa,  he  said,  must  naturally  awaken  the  suspicions 
of  the  English.  I  had  come  here,  into  their  territory,  and  had 
everywhere  hoisted  the  German  flag.  He  had  been  suspicious 
of  me  before  I  came  here.  My  behaviour  here  had  greatly 
strengthened  his  suspicions.  No  one  knew  what  my  real  inten- 
tions were.  I  had  visited  neither  him  nor  the  English  Consul- 
General ;  here  and  there  I  had  looked  about  me  on  the  coast. 
Rightly  or  wrongly,  he  felt  fully  convinced  that  I  had  again 
political  objects  in  the  background.  And  these  aims  he  would 
oppose.  He  was  an  Englishman,  and  no  one  could  blame  him 
for  doing  so.  If,  indeed,  I  were  protected  by  my  own  Govern- 
ment, he  could  put  no  obstacle  in  my  way.  I  ought  to  report 
to  Berlin.  So  long  as  my  Government  did  nothing  for  me, 
nobody  could  blame  him  if  he  tried  to  frustrate  my  endeavours. 


APPENDIX.  567 

He  would  readily  admit  that  the  blockade  was  a  welcome 
implement  to  him,  for  this  end.  And  he  intended  to  use  it. 
If  this  was  '  unpleasant '  for  me,  I  must  at  least  allow  that  he 
met  me  openly.  I  replied,  his  good  will  was  not  the  point  in 
question,  'but,'  I  said,  'I  onl}'  want  my  right.  You  must  your- 
self know  how  far  you  can  justify  such  measures  against  me. 
It  is  plain  that  ultimately  they  will  have  to  be  adjudicated 
upon  in  another  place.'  I  would  have  visited  him  before,  but 
it  had  several  times  happened  that  he  was  absent  when  I  was 
in  Zanzibar.  So  far  as  my  objects  were  concerned,  they  were 
expressed  in  the  aim  of  my  expedition.  I  wished  to  carry  help 
to  Emin  Pasha.  As  regarded  the  attitude  of  the  German 
Government,  I  was  not  entitled  to  express  an  opinion  why  it  took 
up  this  or  that  position  ;  at  any  rate,  both  our  Emperor  and  the 
Imperial  Chancellor  had  assured  us  of  their  sympathy,  and  I 
also  believed  that  we  possessed  the  sympathy  of  our  nation. 

"  Admiral  Fremantle  said,  that  so  far  as  regarded  his  right, 
there  existed  a  state  of  war.  That  I  was,  or  at  least  appeared 
to  be,  dangerous  to  the  peace  of  Africa.  That  when,  a  short 
time  ago.  Sir  John  Kirk  had  been  here,  entirely  on  private 
affairs,  the  Germans  had  shown  themselves  to  be  disquieted,  and 
that  Sir  John  had  been  obliged,  after  three  days,  to  take  his 
departure.  Now,  he  had  personally  a  very  high  esteem  for  Sir 
John  Kirk.  Therefore  I  should  receive  more  justice  than  Sir 
John  Kirk.  I  was,  for  the  English,  exactly  what  Sir  John 
Kirk  was  for  the  Germans.  If  Deinhard  declared  that  he  did 
not  want  to  have  Sir  John  Kirk  in  Saadani,  he  could  do  nothing 
against  it ;  and  the  English  did  not  want  to  have  me  in  any  of 
their  places.  Besides,  there  were  such  things  as  telegraphs.  I 
had  better  complain  of  him  ;  an  order  to  him  from  London 
would  alter  the  situation  for  him. 

"  I  replied  that  I  did  not  think  he  was  justified  in  the 
measures  he  was  taking,  for  a  state  of  war  did  not  actually 
prevail ;  and  for  the  blockade  there  were  definite  normal  bounds, 
which  I  did  not  intend  to  overstep.  I  should  leave  it  to  the 
public  opinion  of  Europe  to  form  a  judgment  on  the  attitude 
he  was  maintaining.     Beyond  this,  I  was  especially  anxious  to 


568  APPEXD/X. 

know  accuratel}',  to  what  extent  I  had  to  calculate  upon  his 
opposition.  '  What  are  the  places  you  blockade  ?  '  Admiral 
Fremantle  replied,  '  The  places  from  Lamu  to  Umba.'  I  said, 
'  Then  outside  these  I  have  not  to  anticipate  your  enmity  ? ' 
He  answered,  after  a  short  hesitation,  '  Outside  these  places  I 
shall  not  interfere  with  you.'  I  said^  '  Very  well  ;  I  now  know 
what  I  have  to  expect,  and  you  may  be  sure  that  it  is  not  my 
intention  to  interfere  with  the  sphere  of  British  blockade.' 

"  I  then  brought  forward  the  subject  of  my  wish  with  respect 
to  the  delivering  up  of  the  hunting  weapons  ;  the  German 
authorities  had,  as  I  reported  to  the  Committee  yesterday,  de- 
clined to  mediate  for  me  in  this  matter.  Admiral  Fremantle 
explained  to  me,  in  the  first  instance,  that  for  his  part  he 
had  never  had  any  other  idea  than  that  there  was  a  '  mis- 
understanding '  in  this  matter.  He  had  also  said  to  his 
superiors,  that  I  might  have  sent  the  weapons  by  Wissmann's 
steamer,  so  that  I  had  given  no  cause  of  complaint.  He  would 
send  my  hunting  weapons  to  me,  on  board  the  Necera,  and  only 
requested  me  to  give  him  a  receipt  for  them. 

"  During  our  interview,  an  impression  had  evidently  come 
upon  the  old  gentleman,  that  this  attitude  towards  a  single  man 
was  not,  after  all,  a  very  brilliant  one,  and  it  was  manifestly 
agreeable  to  him  to  do  me  this  favour. 

"  In  conclusion,  I  asked  him  whether  I  might,  if  necessary, 
send  the  Necera  to  Lamu.  He  replied,  '  Well,  if  no  arms  are  on 
board,  and  '  (with  a  smile)  '  if  you  yourself  don't  go.' 

"  I  have  to  apologise  if  this  short  extract  from  our  conver- 
sation should  be  found  incorrect,  here  and  there,  with  respect  to 
st3de.  I  have  been  anxious  to  give  the  decisive  declarations  as 
literally  as  possible. 

"  I  believe  this  report  may  be  of  use,  in  case  of  necessity, 
in  characterising  the  condition  of  things  here,  and  beg  to 
refer  this,  with  all  respect,  to  the  judgment  of  the  honourable 
Committee. 

"  With  much  respect, 

(Signed)     "  Cael  Peters." 


APPENDIX.  569 


"  To  Captain  Cakdale, 
"  Commander  of  H.B.M.S.  Agamemnon,  Zanzibar. 

"  Sir, — When  I  had  the  honour  to  call  upon  you  this 
morning,  you  kindly  informed  me  that  you  had  orders  not  to 
allow  my  person  to  land  at  any  place  within  the  sphere  of 
British  blockade  ;  neither  should  my  steamer  he  entitled  to 
call  at  any  port  or  place  blockaded  by  the  British  fleet. 

"As  it  is  absolutely  necessary  that  I  should  have  a  personal 
interview  with  the  Commander-in-Chief,  Rear-Admiral  Fre- 
mantle,  and  as  I  have  hardly  time  to  wait  till  next  Thursday, 
I  kindly  beg  of  you  either  to  give  me  passage  on  hoard  one 
of  H.B.M.  ships  that  is  going  to  Mombassa  within  the  next 
days,  or  to  give  a  pass  for  my  steamer  Necera,  on  board  of 
which  I  then  will  go  to  Mombassa.  As  this  demand  is  in 
entire  conformity  with  the  conditions  of  the  blockade,  I  trust 
that  you  will  kindly  a^ree  to  it. 

"  Your  immediate  answer  will  greatly  oblige 
"  Yours  very  respectfully, 

(Signed)      "Carl    Peters. 

"  On  hoard  S.S.  '  Necera.'  " 


"  To  Dr.  Carl  Peters, 
"  British  S.S.  Nemra. 

"  H.M.S.  '  Agamemnon,'  Zanzibak,  3Ia>/  27th,  1889. 

"  Sir, — I  regret  to  inform  you  that  it  is  not  in  my  power 
either  to  give  you  a  pass  to  Mombassa,  or  to  grant  you  a 
passage  in  H.M.  ship  proceeding   to  that  port. 

"The  Rear-Admiral  Commander-in-Chief  will  arrive  at 
Zanzibar  at  daylight  on  Thursday  next,  when  you  will  have 
no  difficulty  in  seeing  him. 

"  I  am.  Sir,  your  obedient  Servant, 

"  C.  S.  Cardale, 

"  Captain  and  Senior  Officer. ' 


570  APPENDIX. 

"Bagam-OYO,  June  9tk,  1889. 

"  Your  Excellency, — I  have  the  honour  kindly  to  inform 
Your  Excellency  that  I  shall  most  likely  have  to  send  the 
Necera  to  Lamu. 

"  According  to  the  promise  kindly  given  by  Your  Excellency 
to  me,  that  you  will  raise  no  objections  to  my  doing  so,  in  case 
there  are  neither  arms,  nor  war  ammunitions,  nor  my  own  person 
on  board,  I  kindly  beg  from  Your  Excellency  to  instruct  the 
commander  of  H.M.S.  at  Lamu  of  my  intention. 

"  I  probably  shall  send  to  Lamu  either  Herr  Borchert  or  Herr 
Friedenthal,  or  both,  and  this  will  be  about  from  the  25th  to 
the  30th  of  June. 

"  With  the  expression  of  my  sincere  respect, 
"I  remain 
"  Your  Excellency's  most  obedient  Servant, 

(Signed)  "  Carl  Peters." 

"'BoADiCEA,'  AT  Zanzibak,  June  Wth,  1889. 

"  Sir, — I  have  the  honour  to  acknowledge  the  receipt  of 
your  letter  of  the  9th  inst.,  informing  me  of  your  intention  to 
send  the  Necera  to  Lamu,  but  that  in  accordance  with  what  I 
mentioned  in  our  recent  interview  you  would  not  go  yourself, 
and  no  arms  or  ammunition  would  be  on  board  the  ship. 

"  Under  the  above  circumstances  I  shall  not  object  to  the 
Newra  going  to  Lamu,  and  I  will  give  instructions  to  our 
blockading  ship  accordingly  ;  but  her  proceedings  there  will  be 
watched,  and  I  shall  direct  that  she  is  ordered  to  quit  the  port 
if  anything  whatever  is  being  done  or  suspected  which  would 
at  all  be  liable  to  create  disturbance  or  injure  the  British 
Imperial  East  African  Company. 

"  It  would  tend  to  remove  suspicion  if  you  were  to  make  a 
candid  statement  of  the  object  for  which  the  Necera  is  required 
to  go  to  Lamu. 

"  I  have  the  honour  to  be,  Sir,  your  obedient  Servant, 

(  Signed )  ' '  Fremantle, 

"  Rear- Admiral  Comniander-in-Ghief. 


APPENDIX.  571 


"To    OSKAE    BOECHERT,  EsQ., 

"Member  of  the  German  Emin  Pasha  Expedition,  Lamu. 

"  Lamu,  June  2lst,  1889. 
"Sir, — I  have  the  honour  to  inform  you  that  I  have  re 
ceived  orders  from  Arbuthnot,  commander  of  H.M.S.  Mariner, 
to  prevent  the  S.S.  Necera  from  landing  the  cargo  consigned  to 
the  German  Emin  Pasha  Expedition  in  Lamu. 

"I  further  have  to  state  that  I  have  examined  every 
package,  and  hereby  certify  that  I  have  found  neither  arms 
nor  ammunition  nor  powder  amongst  them. 

"  I  have  the  honour  to  be.  Sir, 

(Signed)     "D.R.Roberts, 

"  Seaman,  H.M.S.  '  Mariner.'  " 


"  H.M.S.  'Mariner,'  at  Lamu, 

"  22nd  June,  1889. 

"  Sir, — Acting  under  orders  from  the  Naval  Commander- 
in-Chief  in  these  waters,  and  in  consideration  of  the  existing 
blockade  of  this  part  of  the  coast  of  Africa,  I  have  to  inform 
you  that  [the  stores  at  present  on  board  your  ship  for  Dr.  Carl 
Peters  cannot  be  landed  at  this  place,  or  at  any  other  part 
within  or  adjacent  to  that  part  of  the  coast  which  is  at  present 
under  blockade.  Those  stores,  now  in  a  lighter  alongside  your 
ship,  must  be  taken  on  board  again,  and  you  are  to  quit  the 
port  as  soon  as  this  is  accomplished.  I  shall  send  an  officer 
and  an  armed  party  on  board  to  support  you  in  carrying  out  this 
order.  The  officer  will  accompany  you  to  Zanzibar,  in  order  to 
see  that  the  stores  are  not  landed  in  any  other  port  on  this 
part  of  the  coast.  His  passage  to  that  place  will  be  taken  and 
paid  for. 

(Signed)    "  Charles  R.  Arbuthnot, 

"  Commander." 


572  APPENDIX. 


"  WiTU,  2Wi  June,  1889. 

"  Your  Excellency, — It  is  with  the  greatest  surprise  that  I 
learn  Your  Excellency  has  given  orders  to  seize  the  Necera  at 
Lamu,  and  prohibit  her  to  discharge  her  cargo  at  this  place. 
Your  Excellenc)',  I  am  sure,  will  understand  my  surprise,  as 
you  will  remember  our  arrangement  made  at  Zanzibar  on  May 
31st.  Your  Excellency  declared  my  calling  at  any  place  under 
British  blockade  objectionable,  but  promised  not  to  interfere 
with  me  outside  the  line  of  this  blockade.  When  I  asked  Your 
Excellency  what  you  meant  by  ports  and  places  under  British 
blockade,  you  answered  clearly  and  distinctly  that  this  meant 
the  coast  between  Lamu  and  the  mouth  of  the  Umba  River. 
The  official  declaration  limits  the  blockade  between  2°  10'  and 
10°  27'  southern  latitude.  Therefore,  complying  with  your 
demand,  I  took  the  trouble  to  land  the  goods  of  the  German 
Emin  Pasha  Expedition  at  Kwaihu  Bay,  about  2°  5'  southern 
latitude,  therefore  '  outside  the  line  of  blockade.'  You  further 
promised  me  not  to  interfere  with  the  Necera,  should  she  call  at 
Lamu,  if  neither  men  nor  arms  and  war  ammunition  were  on 
board.  Now  the  Necera,  trusting  to  your  promise,  called  at 
Lamu  without  me  and  war  ammunitions  of  any  kind.  In  spite 
of  the  promise  given  by  Your  Excellency  to  me  at  Zanzibar  on 
May  31st,  you  have  given  orders  to  seize  her  by  force,  in  con- 
tradiction to  international  law,  and  in  conflict  with  the  terms 
laid  down  in  the  declaration  of  blockade. 

"  I  shall  leave  it  to  the  public  opinion  to  judge  about  this 
conduct,  and  I  have  taken  steps  to  have  this  letter  published  in 
Europe. 

"  But  I  may  take  the  liberty  to  inform  Your  Excellency  that 
I  had  transferred  the  Necera  to  Herr  Oskar  Borchert  already  on 
t  he  1 5th  day  of  this  month  at  Kwaihu  Bay,  and  that  I  consigned 
the  merchandise  on  her  to  Herr  Toeppen  on  the  19th  day  of  this 
month  at  Shimbye.  For  these  goods,  representing  merchandise 
to  be  used  on  the  Pangani  route,  were  not  of  essential  value  to 
me  while  marching  north  of  the  Tana  river,  and  therefore  I  sent 


APPENDIX. 


573 


them  to  Lamn  instead  of  landing  them  at  Kwaihii.  I  expect 
that  Herr  Oskar  Borchert  as  well  as  Herr  Toeppen  will  claim 
damages  from  Your  Excellency  h)'  legal  proceedings  for  the 
losses  they  incurred  through  your  orders,  which  you  will  have 
to  answer  for. 

"  I  have  the  honour  to  he, 
"  Your  Excellency's  most  obedient  Servant, 

(Signed)     "  Carl  Petees. 


"  To  his  Excellency  the  Piear-Admii-al  and  Commander-in- 
Cliief,  Feemantle,  on  boai-d  H.IM.S.  Iloadicea." 


-j74:  appendix. 


SUPPLEMENT  III. 

TES  "JSTECEKA"  LAWSUIT. 

THE  English  steamer  Neoera  was  chartered  in  April  1889, 
through  the  instrumentality  of  the  Indian  merchant 
Sewa  Hadji,  by  Dr.  Carl  Peters  for  a  period  of  six  months,  at 
the  stipulated  price  of  6,500  rupees  per  month,  for  the  German 
Emin  Pasha  Expedition.  After  the  landing,  which  took  place 
in  Kwaihu  Bay  on  June  15th  (outside  the  blockaded  region  on 
the  coast),  the  articles  required  by  the  expedition,  especially 
arms,  munitions,  wares,  etc.,  were  landed.  There  remained  on 
board  about  one  hundred  cases  of  various  articles  which  were 
not  immediately  required  for  the  expedition.  According  to  the 
arrangements  made  by  Dr.  Peters,  these  goods  were  to  be  sold 
in  Lamu  or  Zanzibar,  and  in  their  stead  articles  of  barter  were 
to  be  provided,  which  were  to  be  sent  after  the  expedition.  To 
this  end.  Dr.  Peters  consigned  the  goods  left  on  board  to  the 
representative  of  the  German  Witu  Company,  Herr  Curt  Toeppen, 
in  Lamu ;  while  the  charter  was  transferred  on  June  15th  to 
Herr  0.  Bor chert,  member  of  the  German  Emin  Pasha  Expe- 
dition. Herr  Borchert  arrived  with  the  ship  at  Lamu  on 
June  18th.  There  eighty-seven  cases  were  put  on  board  a 
dhow,  after  they  had  been  opened  and  not  objected  to  by  the 
English  naval  officer  who  carried  out  the  blockade  service  in 
Lamu.  This  officer,  in  a  letter  to  Herr  Borchert,  dated  June 
21st,*  especially  acknowledged  that  he  had  found  in  the  cases 
neither  arms,  nor  powder,  nor  ammunition  of  any  kind.  Never- 
theless he  informed  Herr  Borchert,  in  the  same  letter,  that  he 
had  received  orders  from  Mr.  Arbuthnot,  the  commander  of  the 
English  ship  of  war  Mariner,  to  prevent  the  landing  of  the 
goods  in  Lamu.     A   letter   from   Mr.   Charles   R.  Arbuthnot, 

*  See  Supplement  II.,  p.  571. 


APPENDIX.  575 

dated  June  22nd,*  confirmed  this  order,  with  the  addition  that 
the  goods  already  transhipped  to  the  dhow  were  to  be  put  back 
on  board  the  Necera,  and  that  the  latter  was  to  quit  the  harbour 
of  Lamu  immediately.  The  captain  of  the  Necera  was  com- 
pelled to  obey  this  order,  and  to  proceed  to  Zanzibar,  accom- 
panied by  an  English  officer. 

In  Zanzibar  the  cargo  of  the  ship  was  again  inspected.  A 
case  was  now  found  which  contained,  among  other  parapher- 
nalia, a  few  leather  belts  and  bags,  besides  a  number  of  knives, 
or  hunting  knives,  and  a  small  quantity  of  sounding  lead. 
Hereupon  proceedings  were  taken  in  the  English  Prize  Court  in 
Zanzibar.  There  appeared  as  plaintiffs,  demanding  the  release 
of  the  ship  :  ( 1 )  The  proprietors  of  the  Necera  (the  English 
firm  Messrs.  Shepherd  &  Co.)  ;  (2)  Sewa  Hadji  and  0. 
Borchert  as  charterers;  (3)  Herr  Toeppen  as  consignee  of  the 
goods.  The  judge  had  to  decide  whether  the  ship  had  been 
rightfully  seized  for  breaking  the  blockade,  and  the  decision 
turned  upon  the  question  whether  the  articles  above  described 
(leather  belts,  bags,  etc.)  were  to  be  looked  upon  as  materials 
of  war.  On  this  question  English  as  well  as  German  witnesses 
and  experts  were  heard.  The  Englishmen  (especially  Captain 
Cardale  of  the  man-of-war  Agamemnon,  and  General  Matthews, 
commander  of  the  troops  of  the  Sultan  of  Zanzibar)  answered 
the  question  in  the  affirmative,  while  on  the  German  side 
(especially  by  Imperial  Commissary  Wissmann)  the  opinion 
was  maintained  that  we  had  here  to  do  with  articles  the 
importation  of  which  was  in  no  way  forbidden  by  the  decrees 
and  orders  for  the  blockade.  The  judge  took  the  latter  view. 
The  decision  was  given,  to  that  effect,  on  August  5th,  1889. 
Though  it  was  favourable  as  to  the  main  issue,  inasmuch  as 
an  order  was  made  for  the  release  of  the  ship,  the  judge  not 
only  refused  the  claim  for  damages  set  up  by  the  plaintiffs, 
but  also  condemned  the  owners  of  the  ship  in  the  costs  of  the 
suit.  At  the  conclusion  of  his  plaint,  Herr  Borchert  had  not 
only  asked  for  the  release  of  the  ship  and  her  cargo,  but  had 

*  See  Supplement  II.,  p.  571. 


576  APPENDIX. 

sought  to  make  the  authors  of  the  seizure  of  the  vessel  responsi- 
ble for  all  damages  he  had  suffered  by  that  proceeding. 

The  question  accordingly  arose,  whether,  in  view  of  this 
last  decree,  an  appeal  should  be  lodged  against  the  decision 
of  the  Prize  Court,  that  had  been  favourable  on  the  chief  point. 
This  question  was  urged  upon  the  German  Emin  Pasha  com- 
mittee also  by  the  Foreign  Office  of  the  German  Empire. 

The  executive  committee  of  the  above-mentioned  associa- 
tion had  applied  to  the  Foreign  Office  with  a  complaint 
concerning  the  hostile  measures  of  the  English  authorities 
(preventing  the  Somalis  from  landing  in  Lamu,  confiscation 
of  the  weapons  in  Zanzibar,  prohibition  to  Dr.  Carl  Peters  and 
to  the  Newra  to  land  within  the  English  line  of  blockade, 
seizure  of  the  Neoera),  and  put  forward  claims  for  damages. 
The  Foreign  Office,  after  receiving  the  report  of  the  Consul- 
General  in  Zanzibar,  did  not,  indeed,  acknowledge  the  complaint 
in  all  its  bearings,  but  allowed  it  to  be  well  founded  in  respect 
to  certain  points.  With  regard  to  the  affair  of  the  Necera,  it 
was  proposed  to  the  executive  committee  that  the  judgment 
of  the  Prize  Court  should  be  appealed  against  to  the  Privy 
Council  in  London,  as  the  English  Government  could  only  be 
moved  to  give  an  indemnity  in  case  of  the  "  unconditional 
acquittal  "  of  the  ship.  Thereupon  enquiries  were  instituted 
on  the  part  of  the  committee  in  London,  in  the  proper  quarter, 
with  respect  to  the  cost  and  the  probable  issue  of  an  appeal. 
The  answer  was  that  the  proceedings  in  London  would  involve 
an  expense  which  would  go  beyond  the  means  of  the  committee, 
and  that  the  issue  appeared  doubtful ;  possibly,  the  appeal 
might  lead  to  a  reversal  of  the  favourable  verdict  obtained  on 
the  chief  point — the  release  of  the  ship.  The  German  Emin 
Pasha  Committee  accordingly  resolved  to  refrain  from  lodging 
the  appeal.  This  resolve  was  communicated  to  the  Foreign 
Office,  with  the  reasons  that  had  led  to  it.  At  the  same  time 
the  claim  for  damages  on  account  of  the  seizure  of  the  Neoera, 
which  the  Prize  Court  had  pronounced  unjustified,  and  also  for 
the  other  measures  adopted  on  the  side  of  the  English  against 
the  expedition,  was  maintained.      Respecting  one    portion  of 


APPENDIX.  577 

these  claims  the  Foreign  Office  had  entered  into  negotiations 
with  the  English  Government.  The  provisional  German- 
English  agreement  of  June  17th,  1890,  among  various  yet 
unsettled  points  in  dispute,  which  were  reserved  for  further 
friendly  consideration,  after  it  had  been  declared  that  there 
were  in  principle  no  serious  differences  of  opinion  upon  them, 
had  included  the  "claim  respecting  the  detention  of  the 
steamer  Necera."  The  definitive  agreement  of  July  1st  brought 
no  decision  on  this  point.  To  the  questions,  whether  there 
was  still  a  future  prospect  that  the  claims  raised  for  compensa- 
tion for  the  illegal  treatment  of  the  German  Emin  Pasha 
Expedition  by  the  English  navy  would  receive  any  kind  of 
acknowledgment  and  satisfaction,  or  whether  all  prospect  of 
receiving  such  compensation  must  be  abandoned,  the  German 
Emin  Pasha  Committee  finally  received  from  the  Colonial  depart- 
ment of  the  Foreign  Office  the  answer  that  compensation  for 
the  seizure  of  the  Necera  by  the  English  Government  was  not 
to  be  expected.  Apart  from  the  occurrences  that  had  accom- 
panied the  commencement  of  the  expedition,  the  foundation  on 
which  such  claims  could  have  been  enforced  in  a  diplomatic 
manner  had  been  taken  away  from  the  Imperial  Government, 
by  the  fact  that  the  committee  had  not  adopted  the  available 
means  for  appealing  against  the  judgment  of  the  Prize  Court. 

In  the  report  of  the  English  negotiator  Anderson  on  the  deci- 
sion of  July  1st,  a  report  which  was  laid,  together  with  the  decision, 
before  the  English  Parliament,  the  following  passage  occurs  : — 

"  Certain  points  of  difference  were  specially  reserved  for 
negotiation  between  Dr.  Krauel  and  myself. 

"  The  first  of  these  related  to  claims  of  German  subjects 
connected  with  the  capture  of  the  Necera  in  Lamu  harbour  by 
the  British  blockading  squadron,  and  her  condemnation  (.f*)  by 
the  Zanzibar  Prize  Court,  and  to  further  claims  on  account  of 
the  alleged  refusal  of  the  British  blockading  squadron  to  permit 
the  landing  at  Lamu  of  some  Somali  porters  engaged  for  the 
■expedition  of  Dr.  Peters  into  the  interior. 

"  /  have  been  alle  to  give  satisfactory  explanations  on  loth 

points,  and  the  claims  have  been  withdrawn." 

37 


APPENDIX. 


SUPPLEMENT  IV. 

THE  FATE  OF  THE   SECOND    COLUMN. 

IN  my  narrative  of  the  occurrences  of  Oda-Boru-Ruva,  I 
described  in  what  a  painful  position  I  was  placed  by  the 
non-arrival  of  all  intelligence  respecting  the  second  column. 
At  the  time  I  could  not  at  all  explain  this  to  myself.  It  was 
only  afterwards,  in  Zanzibar  and  in  Europe,  that  I  learned  that 
Lieutenant-Captain  Rust  had  pushed  forward  beyond  Massa  to 
V  unite  with  me,  that  he  had  landed  a  number  of  articles  in  the 
steppe  forest,  under  the  care  of  a  Somali,  and  had  then  gone  back 
to  bring  up  the  rest.  Lieutenant-Captain  Rust  had  afterwards 
lost  the  greater  part  of  his  loads  in  Kena  Kombe  by  an  explo- 
sion of  the  powder  chests,  had  afterwards  fallen  seriously  ill, 
and  had  returned  to  Europe.  Some  messengers  whom  he 
despatched  to  me  appear  to  have  been  killed.  As  Lieutenant- 
Captain  Rust  has  already  made  public  his  adventures  in  a  book 
of  his  own,  "  The  German  Emin  Pasha  Expedition,"  which  was 
published  by  F.  Luckhard  of  Berlin,  I  may  here  content  myself 
with  referring  the  curious  to  his  detailed  account. 

I  shall,  accordingly,  only  subjoin  here  a  short  account  by 
Oskar  Borchert,  which  will  suffice  for  the  continuity  of  this, 
narrative.  Herr  Borchert  intends  also  to  describe  and  publish 
his  experiences  in  detail,  and  his  descriptions  may  be  looked 
forward  to  with  interest.  From  the  following  report,  it  is  mani- 
fest that  he  set  about  his  task  with  determination  and  energy, 
and  that  it  was  not  his  fault  that  he  did  not  reach  my  column. 
The  attempt  of  Oskar  Borchert  to  overtake  us,  his  march  for 
this  object,  with  a  disproportionately  small  equipment,  up  the 
Tana,  is  in  itself  an  achievement  which,  indeed,  only  stands  in 
indirect  connection  with  our  expedition,  but  nevertheless  gives 
Herr  Borchert  a  claim  to  my  acknowledgments,  and  the  approval 


APPENDIX.  519 

of  the  parties  interested  in  Germany.  For  services  must  not 
always  be  estimated  only  according  to  the  material  results.  He 
who  does  honour  to  the  German  name  by  the  fulfilment  of  duty, 
and  by  courage,  serves  his  nation  too,  though  the  effects  of  such 
conduct  cannot  be  estimated  in  figures.  This  is  what  Herr 
Oskar  Borchert  has  done  by  his  march  beyond  Oda-Boru-Ruva. 
And  now  I  think  it  best  to  let  him  speak  for  himself. 

Cakl  Peters. 

"To  THE  Leader  of  the  German  Emin  Pasha  Expedition, 
Herr  Dr.  Carl  Peters. 

"  Herewith  I  transmit  to  you.  Sir,  a  brief  report  of  my 
proceedings  in  connection  with  the  German  Emin  Pasha  Expe- 
dition. I  begin  my  narrative  from  the  period  of  our  parting  in 
Mbaya,  on  June  16th,  1889. 

"  After  we  had,  on  the  day  before,  run  into  the  Kwaihu  Bay 
with  the  steamer  Neoera,  and  from  thence  had  happily  accom- 
plished the  landing  of  the  expedition,  I  received  from  you  the 
command  of  the  steamer,  with  directions  to  take  the  articles  of 
barter  from  Kwaihu  Bay  to  Lamu,  to  unload  them  there,  to 
act  re  steamer  Neoera,  and  then  to  betake  myself,  with  the 
articles  of  barter  that  could  be  transported  on  the  camels  that 
were  in  Lamu,  into  the  Sultanate  of  Witu,  and  there  to  rejoin 
your  column  that  you  had  led  thither  in  the  meantime. 

"  After  an  exceedingly  troublesome  passage  of  three  days, 
against  the  tide  and  monsoon,  we  came  in  sight  of  Lamu.  But 
the  Necera  had  sustained  great  damage  from  storm  and  waves  ; 
and  the  storm,  foretold  by  the  captain,  came  on  before  we  were 
able  to  run  into  the  sheltering  harbour.  Parts  of  the  engine 
were  broken  ;  the  ship,  without  a  rudder,  at  the  mercy  of  the 
stormy  sea,  got  off  its  course  into  the  raging  breakers,  the  wav^s 
tore  away  the  companion  ladder  leading  to  the  after  deck,  there 
was  a  foot  of  water  in  the  saloon,  and  the  captain  prepared  me 
for  the  worst.  After  many  fruitless  efforts,  we  at  length  suc- 
ceeded, in  this  dangerous  position,  in  throwing  out  the  sheet 
anchor,  a  difficult  thing  to  do  in  the  situation  in  which  we  were. 


.180  APPENDIX. 

After  temporaril)'  repairing  the  ship,  I  was  able,  with  the  help 
of  a  pilot,  who  had  nieaDwhile  come  aboard  at  my  signal,  to 
run  into  the  harbour  of  Lamu. 

"  The  occurrences  here, — that  is  to  say,  the  uncalled-for  con- 
fiscation of  our  articles  of  barter  and  the  unjust  seizure  of  the 
Necera  on  the  part  of  the  English  Admiral,  Fremantle, — I  have 
already  had  the  honour  of  reporting  to  you  in  detail,  in  the 
camp  at  Hindi.  In  Hindi  I  received  the  order  to  betake  my- 
self to  Zanzibar,  and  there,  by  resorting  to  law  proct^edings,  to 
procure  the  restoration  of  the  Necera.  It  was  only  by  chance 
that  I  succeeded  in  reaching  Zanzibar  from  Lamu  in  a  steamer 
of  the  Sultan  line.  I  now  entered  an  action  against  the 
English  naval  authorities,  the  captors  of  our  steamer,  and 
addressed  a  memorial  to  His  Highness  the  Imperial  Chancellor, 
Prince  Bismarck,  informed  the  executive  branch  of  the  German 
Emin  Pasha  committee  of  my  proceedings  by  means  of  a  tele- 
gram, and  with  the  help  of  an  Indian  advocate  carried  through 
the  so-called  Necera  lawsuit,  which  in  its  details  was  inter- 
esting. I  won  it.  The  Necera  with  her  whole  cargo  was  given 
up  to  me  ;  but  by  the  seizure  our  expedition  had  incurred 
an  expense  of  54,000  rupees,  and  in  a  report  transmitted  to 
Berlin  I  put  it  to  the  executive  branch  of  the  German  Emin 
Pasha  Expedition  to  decide  whether  they  would  appeal  against 
the  decision,  and  institute  a  separate  lawsuit  for  damages.  I 
transferred  the  charter  of  the  liberated  Necera  to  Captain  Wiss- 
mann,  with  the  stipulation  that  he  must  send  me  to  Lamu  in 
one  of  his  steamers.  On  September  4th  I  was  at  length  able 
to  start  in  the  Harmony  for  Lamu. 

"  There  I  received  the  news  that  you.  Sir,  had  already  in 
July  started  from  Witu  for  Ngoa  on  the  Tana  ;  according  to 
the  instructions  left  behind  for  me,  I  was  to  follow  you  to  Kitui 
on  the  Kenia.  I  was  obliged  in  Kenia  to  bring  an  expedition 
of  my  own  together  for  myself,  so  far  as  I  could  manage  it ; 
and  I  left  there  on  September  12th.  Arrived  at  Witu,  I  esta- 
blished friendly  relations  with  the  Sultan  Tumo  Bakari,  and 
from  thence  led  the  expedition  to  Ngoa,  to  wait  there  for  the 
remainder  of  my  articles  of  barter,  which  I  wished  to  have 


APPENDIX.  581 

brought  by  the  maritime  route  by  dhow,  through  Herr  Schlunke, 
whom  I  had  engaged  as  far  as  the  mouth  of  the  Tana,  to  be 
transported  from  thence  up  the  Tana  as  far  as  Ngoa.  After  I 
had  waited  for  some  time  in  vain  for  Herr  Schlunke  in  Ngoa, 
there  arrived  one  day  from  him  the  bad  tidings  that  the  dhow 
had  got  on  to  a  sandbank  at  the  Osi  mouth  and  had  capsized, 
whereby  many  things  had  been  lost,  and  asking  me  to  come 
to  assist  with  my  people  in  saving  the  rest.  Just  as  I  was  about 
to  start,  I  received  news  which  had  very  extensively  disagree- 
able consequences  for  me,  and  overthrew  all  my  plans.  Lieuten- 
ant-Captain Rust  sent  me  information  from  Kena  Kombe,  a 
place  situate  on  the  Tana,  about  six  days'  march  above  Ngoa,  to 
which  place  he  had  meanwhile  brought  the  articles  of  barter 
intended  for  you,  that  he  had  lost  the  greater  part  of  the  things, 
such  as  guns,  ammunition,  etc.,  by  a  fire,  and  asking  me  to  help 
and  endeavour  to  make  up  the  loss  of  the  articles.  As  I  heard 
at  the  same  time  from  Lieutenant-Captain  Rust  that  you  were 
going  to  wait  on  the  Upper  Tana  for  the  arrival  of  the  articles 
of  barter,  I  wrote  to  Lieutenant-Captain  Rust  that  I  would  try 
to  parry  the  blow,  and  that  he  should  go  to  you  as  quickly  as 
possible  with  the  portion  of  the  things  that  had  escaped.  With 
a  heavy  heart  I  had  now  to  retrace  my  steps  for  the  second  time. 

"  I  proceeded  with  my  column  through  the  Belodsomi  canal 
over  Kan  to  Kipini,  where  with  the  help  of  Herr  Schlunke  I 
raised  the  wrecked  dhow  ;  then  went  on  through  German  Witu 
land  over  Mpekotoni  to  Lamu,  made  up,  by  new  purchases,  for 
the  things  that  had  been  burnt,  and  marched  over  Mkonumbi  to 
Witu.  Here  I  found  news  from  Berlin,  telling  how  in  Germany 
it  was  believed  the  whole  expedition  had  been  ruined,  and  that 
you  yourself  had  been  murdered ;  and  I  also  received  a  letter 
from  the  Imperial  Commissariat  in  Zanzibar,  wherein  was 
announced  the  return  of  Emin  with  Stanley.  These  were  truly 
tidings  which  disturbed  me  most  profoundly.  The  foremost 
thing  to  do  was  to  make  certain  as  to  the  fate  of  the  first 
column. 

"  On  the  same  day,  by  a  forced  ride,  I  reached  Ngoa  on  the 
Tana,  just  as  a  messenger,  Amiri,  arrived  from  Oda-Boru-Ruva, 


582  APPENDIX. 

with  letters  from  you,  from  which  I  could  see  that  at  the  time 
when  you  were  being  mourned  in  Germany  as  a  murdered  man 
you  were  safe  and  sound  with  your  column  in  Oda-Boru-Ruva. 
I  therefore  at  once  sent  a  despatch  to  Germany,  to  quiet  the 
public  mind  there,  in  which  despatch  I  stated  that  it  was  not 
the  German  expedition  but  an  English  one  that  had  been 
destroyed  by  the  Somalis  ;  that  you  with  your  column,  as  well 
as  Lieutenant  von  Tiedemann,  were  in  good  health,  on  the 
Upper  Tana. 

"The  news  of  the  return  of  Stanley  and  Emin  Pasha  to 
the  coast  was  officially  announced  to  me  by  the  Imperial  Com- 
missariat; I  could  no  longer  doubt  it,  and  was  obliged  to  try  and 
reach  you,  however  small  the  prospect  appeared  of  my  doing  so. 
For  some  time  after  I  had  sent  off  the  despatches  to  Germany, 
new  rumours  were  always  springing  up  on  the  Tana,  describing 
the  expedition  as  having  perished,  which  I  certainly  did  not 
believe,  but  which  startled  me  by  their  continual  recurrence. 
The  rumour  said  that  your  column  had  been  completely  de- 
stroyed in  a  fight  with  the  Borani  Gallas,  and  I  was  enabled 
to  ascertain  that  nearly  all  the  Gallas  who  were  fit  for  war, 
and  who  lived  scattered  along  the  Lower  Tana,  had  gone  to 
Oda-Boru-Ruva.  My  duty  bade  me  go  forward  to  ascertain 
the  truth. 

"  A  few  days  after  my  departure  two  of  Rust's  Somalis  over- 
took me,  bringing  a  mournful  message.  Rust,  whom  I  supposed 
to  have  joined  your  column  long  before,  was  lying  sick,  they 
said,  in  Mnina,  in  my  immediate  neighbourhood,  and  they 
asked  me  to  come  quickly  to  his  rescue,  or  else  he  would  die, 
for  he  had  not  been  able  to  reach  Oda-Boru-Ruva,  but  had 
been  obliged  to  turn  back,  because  of  his  illness.  A  few  forced 
marches  brought  me  to  Rust,  and  I  had  the  great  satisfaction 
of  keeping  him  alive  by  my  appearance.  The  situation  in 
which  I  found  him  was  the  most  helpless  and  saddest  that  can 
be  imagined.  I  brought  Rust  by  the  water  route  to  Kulessa, 
my  last  camping-place,  and  the  next  morning  I  had  him  rowed 
by  a  few  trustworthy  Wapokomo  to  Ngoa,  where  he  could 
receive  hospitality  and  every  care  at  the  hands  of  the  benevolent. 


APPENDIX.   .  583 

helpful  missionaries.  I  was  told,  later  on,  that  Rust  had  gone 
to  Lamu,  and  from  thence  intended  to  proceed  to  Europe,  by 
ship,  by  the  first  opportunity  that  offered.  I  had  been  pre- 
pared, by  the  accounts  given  by  Lieutenant-Captain  Rust,  to 
expect  all  kinds  of  difficulties  and  hindrances ;  but  I  may  be 
permitted  to  say  here,  that  during  my  march  the  reality  far 
exceeded  all  expectation,  and  my  little  column,  in  which  I  was 
the  only  white  man,  and  which  at  last  shrank  to  six  porters, 
two  soldiers,  and  a  few  servants,  was  several  times  nearly  being 
destroyed  altogether.  Especially  it  was  the  want  of  water  and 
of  guides  that  brought  us  into  terrible  situations.  Luckily  I 
was  able  to  support  my  troop  through  killing  game,  which  now 
in  the  dry  season  was  to  be  found  in  great  quantities  by  the 
Tana.  Thus  I  also  had  some  highly-interesting  hunting 
experiences  on  my  journey.  I  have  further  to  report,  that 
during  my  onward  march  I  chose,  as  a  rule,  the  left-hand  Tana 
territory,  which,  unexplored  as  yet,  was  traversed  during  the 
time  of  my  journey  by  the  predaceous  tribe  of  the  Kawalalla 
Somalis,  with  their  great  herds  of  cattle.  After  many  ex- 
periences of  the  most  varied  description,  I  reached  the  Galla 
Sultanate  of  Oda-Boru-Ruva.  The  Qallas,  from  the  first,  took 
up  a  hostile  position  towards  me. 

"  Great  was  my  joy  when,  after  long  searching  in  vain,  and 
after  using  an  elephant  track  leading  from  the  steppe  to  the 
river,  I  found  the  Von  der  Heydt  House,  the  station  erected 
by  you. 

"  The  building  stood  silent  and  deserted  ;  but  it  was  a  doubly 
welcome  sight  to  me  to  see  the  black,  white,  and  red  flag,  planted 
before  the  station,  waving  merrily  in  the  wind. 

"As  I  did  not  find  any  direct  communication  from  you 
there,  I  sought  to  obtain,  from  the  Wapokomo  and  Gallas,  upon 
foraging  expeditions  which  I  undertook,  authentic  information 
on  the  fate  of  your  column  ;  and  from  the  concurrence  of  the 
reports  I  received,  I  was  able  to  ascertain  as  certain  that  the 
column  had  not  been  destroyed,  but  had  marched  away  in  good 
health  and  condition  from  Oda-Boru-Ruva  towards  Lake  Baringo. 
There  was  one  Galla  especially,  Parisa  by  name,  who  imparted 


584  APPENDIX. 

to  me  the  details  of  your  fight  with  the  Gallas,  in  which  Sultan 
Hugo  lost  his  life.  I  now  also  ascertained  definitely  that  you 
had  marched  away  with  the  column  as  long  as  six  or  eight  weeks 
before,  and  that  there  was  no  chance  of  my  overtaking  you. 
Still,  I  would  not  j^et  turn  hack  ;  I  was  anxious  to  get  as  far  as 
the  mountain  chains  that  could  be  descried  from  the  Von  der 
Heydt  House.  After  six  days  of  strenuous  marching,  I  reached 
the  mountain  region  through  which  the  Tana  forces  its  way. 
For  a  day  and  a  half  I  traversed  that  district.  The  furthest 
13lace  I  reached  was  called  Garebantai. 

"  My  march  back  led  me  again  to  Oda-Boru-Ruva.  In  the 
meantime  a  number  of  Gallas  had  banded  themselves  together 
here,  and  during  a  two  days'  rest  I  took  they  twice  tried  to 
surprise  me,  but  each  time  they  were  driven  off"  by  volleys  of 
musketry.  When  I  began  my  retreat,  my  situation  was  an 
unfavourable  one.  Already  on  my  arrival  at  Oda-Boru-Ruva  I 
had  no  articles  of  barter  left,  my  ammunition  was  decreasing  at 
a  serious  .rate,  and  some  of  my  people,  footsore  and  enfeebled, 
entirely  gave  in. 

"  I  now  chose  for  my  march  the  region  on  the  right  bank  of 
the  Tana,  to  get  acquainted  with  this  part  likewise.  Though  I 
had  to  contend  with  difficulties  of  various  kinds,  and  myself  fell 
ill  at  last  through  want  of  water  and  proper  provisions,  I  had 
many  interesting  experiences  during  this  part  of  my  journey. 
At  length  I  reached  the  abode  of  the  hospitable  missionaries  on 
the  Tana,  and  here  I  still  had  the  opportunity  to  observe  the 
arrangement  and  management  of  the  Mission ;  then  I  went  on 
to  Lamu,  fi-om  whence  I  at  once  despatched  to  Germany  the 
news  that  you  had  left  the  Tana  station  with  your  column  in 
good  health,  and  were  probably  across  the  Baringo.  In  the 
beginning  of  March  I  reached  Zanzibar  once  more  ;  there  I 
fe'^aw  Emin  Pasha,  and  was  able  to  deliver  to  him  some  of  the 
things  our  expedition  had  brought  from  Germany. 
"  I  have  the  honour  to  sign  myself 
"  Your  most  obedient 

"  OSKAR  BORCHERT." 


APPENDIX.  585 

SUPPLEMENT  V. 

THE  UGANDA  TREATY. 

ENTRE  le  roi  Mwanga  Kabaka  du  Bouganda,  et  le  Dr.  Carl 
Peters  est  agr^e  le  suivant  traite  preliminaire. 

Le  roi  Mwanga  accepte  les  stipulations  du  traite  de 
Berlin  (acte  de  Congo),  fevrier  1885,  pour  ce  qui  a  rapport  au 
Bouganda  et  k  ses  pays  tributaires.  II  ouvre  ces  pays  k  tons 
les  sujets  de  Sa  Majeste  I'Empereur  d'Allemagne,  comme  k  tons 
les  autres  Europeens.  II  garantit  aux  sujets  de  Sa  Majeste 
I'Empereur  d'Allemagne,  comme  aux  autres  Europeens  qui 
voudront  en  profiter,  entiere  liberte  de  commerce,  liberte  de 
passage,  liberte  de  residence  dans  le  Bouganda  et  tons  les  pays 
tributaires. 

Le  roi  Mwanga  entre  en  amitie  avec  Sa  Majeste  I'Empereur 
d'Allemagne,  et  re9oit  la  liberte  de  commerce,  liberte  de  passage, 
et  liberte  de  residence  pour  ses  sujets,  dans  tons  les  territoires 
de  Sa  Majeste  I'Empereur  d'Allemagne. 

Dr.  Carl  Peters  se  charge  de  proposer  la  ratification  de  ce 
traits  preliminaire  au  gouvernement  allemand. 

Ce  traite  est  fait  en  langue  kiganda,  kiswahili  et  fran^ais. 
En  cas  de  diff^rente  interpretation  le  texte  fran9ais  seul  fera 
foi. 


21  fivrier,  1890. 


Signed 


(-Mwanga,  Kabaka  wa  Buganda  ;  and  all 
the  great  men  of  the  land. 

Dr.  Carl  Peters. 

Temoin. 

Simeon  Lourdel,  Superieur  de  la  Mis- 
sion Catholique  de  Bouganda. 


LUGANDA. 

Kilagano  ekyo  ekisose,  Mwanga  kabaka  wa  Buganda  kye 
alayana  na  Dr.  Carl  Peters. 

Kabaka    Mwanga,  ebigambo   eby  o   Buganda  ne  bye   nsi 


586 


APPENDIX. 


eziingila  mu  Buganpa  ebyatabibwa  mu  Kilagano  kya  Berlin 
(acte  du  Congo,  fevrier  1885)  abikkiriza.  Ate  abantu  bonna 
aba  kabaka  wa  Budatshi,  abawa  nga  bwe  yawa  abazongu  bonna 
obwinza  bwo  kuja  mu  nsi  ye.  Ate  abantu  bonna  aba  kabaka 
wa  Budatshi  abalaganya  nga  bwe  abaganya  abazongu  bonna 
abalyagala,  obwinza  bwonna  o  bwo  buguzi,  o  bwo  kutambula, 
ne  bwo  kuzimba  mu  nsi  ya  Buganda  ne  nsi  zonna  eziingila  mu. 

Ate  kabaka  Mwanga  aingidde  mu  ayagalo  mkwano  gwa 
kabaka  o  Mukuru  wa  budatshi,  ate  abantu  be  bonna  ne  bawebwa 
0  bwinza  o  bwo  buguzi,  ne  bwinza  bwo  kutambula  no  bwinza 
bwo  kuzimba  mu  nsi  zomu  za  kabaka  o  Mukuru  wa  budatshi. 

Dr.  Carl  Peters  alitwala  ekilayano  ekyo  ekisose,  eri  Governe- 
ment  datshi,  kitukkirizibwe. 

Kilagano- ekyo  ba  kiwandise  mu  luswaili  ne  luganda  ne 
lufransa  naye  oba  walio  empaka  mu  bigambo  olufransa  Ime 
lulisara  o  msango. 


27  fehruari,  1890. 


Mwanga,  Kabaka  wa  Buganda. 
Dr.  Carl  Peters. 
Simeon  Louedel. 


THE   END. 


INDEX 


Aberdare  Range,  the,  210. 

Accident,  a  tragic,  258. 

Achmed  Somali,  death  of,  285. 

Aden,  proceedings  at,  22. 

Adventurous  boat  voyage,  161. 

African  tobacco,  442  ; .  character,  499  ; 
ideas  of  trade,  500 ;  colonisation, 
improved  prospects  for,  588. 

Agreement,  the  London,  133. 

Ali  Somal,  arrival  of,  304. 

Ambassadress,  a  Massai,  dialogue 
with,  250. 

Amdalla,  porter,  210. 

Ammunition,  serious  expenditure  in, 
240 ;  makeshift,  524. 

Ancient  records,  their  teaching,  418  ; 
maps  and  charts,  420,  421. 

Angata-na-Nyuki,  march  to  the,  290. 

Announcement,  a  startling,  263. 

Ants  and  mosquitoes,  85. 

Anxious  night,  an,  242. 

Appendix,  561. 

Arab  treachery,  a  piece  of,  109;  ac- 
count of  Ancient  Egypt,  424 ; 
trader,  Mohammed  Bin  Omari,  517. 
Arabs,  conversation  with,  282 ;  visit 
from,  284 ,  in  Uganda,  391 ;  and 
Africans,  undependable,  477  ;  flight 
of,  486 ;  of  Mkondogna,  552. 
Arendt,    Herr,    explanatory   to    the 

English,  400. 
Arendt  Bay,  350. 


Articles  of  barter,  49 ;  of  the  Uganda, 

treaty,  389. 
Augusta  Victoria  Pall,  201. 
Aztecs,  ancient  sepulchres  of,  423. 


B. 

Baale,  arrival  in,  458. 

Badutschi,  the,  achievements  of,  518. 

Bagamoyo,  passage  to,  30 ;  departure 
from,  83  ;  march  to,  555. 

Bamberger,  his  philosophy,  206. 

Banana,  the,  as  food  and  drink,  351 ; 
capacities  of  the  tree,  408. 

Banquet,  a  sumptuous,  540. 

Barakka,  formidable  accident  of,  179. 

Baringo  Lake,  its  surrovmdings,  267 ; 
shores  of,  272. 

Basilid,  Br.,  his  plantations,  555. 

Belgians,  King  of,  his  offer,  544. 

Beyma  people,  the,  416. 

Bin  Omari,  517 ;  interview  with,  518 ; 
homage  of,  519  ;  his  caravan,  531. 

Bismarck,  Count  Herbert  von,  com- 
munication from,  16. 

Bismarck,  Prince,  encouragement 
from,  12  ;  change  of  front,  14. 

Bley,  Herr,  departure  of,  31. 

Boadicea,  the,  49. 

Boatmen,  dUatoriness  of,  443. 

Bonfire,  a  grand,  189. 

Borchert  and  the  Ifeosra,  55. 

Brag,  a  game  of,  229. 


588 


INDEX. 


Bridge,  failure  of,  across  the  Tana,  200. 
British  blockade,  I'elations  with,  566. 
British  East  African  Company,  the, 

544. 
Buana  Mku,  parting  with,  284 ;  mis; 

behaviour  of,  468. 
Buana  Shama  promises  a  guide,  79. 
Bubo  river,  the,  531. 
Budduland,  451. 
Bukerebe,  island  of,  468. 
Bukoba,  advantages  of,  542. 
Bulingogwe,  437. 
Bumbide,  island  of,  469. 
Busiba,  settlement  of,  502. 


0. 


Camel,  the  voracious,  287 ;  death  of 

the  last,  28. 
Camp,  poetry  of  life,  79  ;  fortifying 

the,  258;  Stanley's,  344. 
Camping,  among  friends,  269  ;  ground, 

a  confused,  278,  a  pleasant,  401. 
Canal,  Siyu,  42. 
Candle  manufacture,  284. 
Cannibal  fowls,  514. 
Caravan,     the     Wanjamwesi,    531  ; 

Mohammed    Bin     Omari's,     531 ; 

under  the  German  flag,  533. 
Centipede,  a,  510. 
"  Chief,"  confidence  in  the,  261. 
Christianity,  prospects  of  supremacy, 

404. 
Chi-istmas  Eve,  a  disturbed,  245. 
CiviHsation,     effect  of   Stanley's   ex- 
pedition upon,  548. 
CiviKsed  hf e,  delights  and  luxuries  of, 

452,  488. 
Coldness  of  nights,  218. 
Combat,  a,  289. 

Commissariat,  importance  of  the,  277. 
Cooking  under  ditficulties,  296. 
Crocodiles,  ferocity  of,  490. 
Culinary  science  and  sport,  206. 


D. 


Dar-es-Salam,  33. 

Deluge,  a,  510. 

Demand,  a  categoric,  186. 

Deserter,  arrival  of  a,  286. 

Desertion,  tendency  to,  340. 

Desolate  region  of  horror,  a,  376. 

Dhow  navigation,  dangers  of,  41. 

Dialects,  Suaheli  and  Kiganda,  417. 

Dika,  fording  the,  208. 

Discipline,   strict,    94;  necessity  for, 

384. 
Discrepancy   between    Stanley's   and 

Emin  Pasha's  accounts,  545. 
Djuma,  473. 

Dongo  Gelesha  Range,  the,  252. 
Donkeys,  two  useful,  497  ;  mischance 

through,  512. 
Dream,  a  curious,  293. 
Dsagga,  land  of,  182. 
Dumo,  description  of,  459. 


E. 


East  African  disturbances,  progress 
of,  10. 

Eclipse  of  the  sun,  243 ;  effect  on 
Massais,  244. 

Elbejet,  chief  kraal  of,  230  ;  reception, 
at,  231 ;  attacks  on,  236,  239. 

Elgejo,  land  of,  279  ;  people  of,  285  ;. 
great  plateau,  288. 

Elgon  rock  dwellings,  424. 

Elmordn,  the,  among  the  Massais,- 
226  ;  villages,  227  ;  attack  by  the, 
237;  kraal  fired,  241. 

Emin  Pasha,  services  of,  4 ;  conflict- 
ing rumours  concerning,  14;  ac- 
counts of,  305,  306  ;  proposal  to, 
316  ;  conjectures  about,  339  ;  ques- 
tion of  his  whereabouts,  344 ; 
tidings  of,  533  ;  Dr.  Peters's  meet- 
ing  with,    536;    approbation    of, 


INDEX. 


589 


338  ;  consultation  with,  540 ;  in 
the  German  service,  541  ;  carried 
off  by  Stanley,  543  ;  his  position  on 
the  Upper  Nile,  544 ;  discrepancy 
between  his  accounts  and  Stanley's, 
545 ;  compelled  to  follow  Stanley, 
545;  estimate  of  Stanley,  546 ;  char- 
acter and  amiable  qualities,  549  ; 
photographic  portraits  of,  550  ;  Dr. 
Peters's  parting  from,  551. 

Emin  Pasha  German  Expedition  pro- 
jected, 3 ;  managing  committee 
appointed,  5,  7  ;  resolution  for  post- 
ponement, 12. 

Encampment  at  Ischioragama,  373  ; 
a  primitive,  471  ;  in  Bandelundo, 
472;  at  Kuru,  473;  at  Kabila, 
496  ;  Emin's,  537  ;  a  jovial,  540. 

Engatana,  departure  for,  76 ;  camp 
at,  97. 

England,  question  of  co-operation 
with,  11. 

Enterprise,  a  dangerous,  367. 

Envoys,  account  of  themselves,  343. 

Europe,  startling  news  from,  538. 

Expedition,  Dr.  Peters's,  frustrated  by . 
Stanley's  undertaking,  548 ;  an- 
other German,  554. 

Emin  Pasha,  resources  of,  31  ; 

division  of,  56 ;  strength  of,  70 ; 
a  previous,  276. 

English,  rumours  of,  95  ;  traces 


of,  120;  letters  for,  359. 
expected  British  East  African, 


316. 

-  German,  3,  5,  7 ;  preparations 
for,  17  ;  difficulties  to  be  encoun- 
tered, 18 ;  plan  of,  221 ;  use  of,  478. 

idea  of  a  new,  479. 

Mr.  Pigott  and  his,  132  ;  traces 

of,  165. 

Mr.  Smith's,  96,  132  ;  reported 


defeat  of,  117. 

Thomson's,  222. 

Mr.  de  Winton's,  275. 


Extract   of    report   to   Emin   Pasha 
committee,  29. 


F. 


Fabian  tactics  possible,  244. 

Famiae,  prospect  of,  169. 

Feast,  a,  for  the  black  men,  241. 

Fever,  return  of,  513. 

Fighting,  the  best  tactics  in,  309. 

Fire,  an  accidelital,  266  ;  fire  signal, 
120. 

Flag, the  German,  advantages  to,  399 ; 
caravan  under,  533  ;  hoisting,  113, 
136,  258,  486;  at  Njemps,  273. 

Flagstaff  struck  by  lightning,  448. 

Foreign  Office,  endeavours  to  interest, 
28. 

Forest  scene,  grand,  201. 

Fremantle,  Admiral,  conference  with, 
32 ;  proceedings  of,  41  ;  congratula- 
tions from,  559;  relations  with,  566. 

French  Mission,  the,  384,  451. 

missionary  boats,  456. 

station,    arrangements    of    the, 

452  ;  Sunday  at,  454. 

Fugitives  on  the  Tana,  155. 

Fumo  Bukari's  declaration  of  friend^ 
ship,  68. 

Funga  Sombo,  swamp  and  forest  of, 
65. 

G. 

Galamba,  154. 

GaUa,  arrival  at  settlement,  122. 

guides,  the,  162. 

regions,  116. 

Gallas,  the,  as  police,  85;  with  the, 
in  Oda-Boru-Ruva,  124;  descrip- 
tion of,  126,  127  ;  sojourn  among, 
137  ;  unsatisfactory  relations  with, 
139 ;  decisive  measures  against, 
141 ;  policy  to  be  adopted  towards, 
149;  delays  of,  153. 


590 


INDEX. 


Gall-Galla,  cunning  of,  144. 

Game  animals,  a  region  of,  505. 

German  Government,  embarrassing 
position  with  regard  to,  15. 

German  station,  the  friends  at,  536. 

Germany,  lively  interest  in,  of  expe- 
dition, 10. 

Gnare  Gobit,  crossing  the,  228. 

Gordon,  Mr.,  missionary,  and  Walker, 
379  ;  objections  of,  392  ;  explana- 
tion to  King  Muanga,  394. 

Grain,  scarcity  of,  117;  stores  seized, 
142  ;  .necessity  of  providing,  153. 

Gratitude  of  Emin  Pasha  for  small 
services,  550. 

Gretchen-Thal,  the,  camping  in,  220. 

Guaso  na  Nyuki,  crossing  the,  268. 

Narok,  march  by  the,  259. 

Nyiro,    region    of,    217;   river. 


219. 
—  Tien 


264; 


of. 


265. 


Guide,  an  inefficient,  81  ;  the  incorri- 
gible, 289. 

Guides,  arrangement  for,  283  ;  three 
Elgejo,  288. 

Gumr  and  El  Gumi,  425. 


H. 

Halt,  a  compulsory,  257. 

Hameje,    glorious,    and    its    islands, 

158. 
Hamiri,  failure  of,  97 ;  imaginative 

eloquence  of,  103  ;  arrival  with  the 

miaus,  113  ;  his  quarrel  with  Pem- 

bomoto,  118. 
Hammock  travelling,  514. 
Hannington,   Bishop,    relics    of    his 

party,  350  ;  his  murder,  364. 
HauteccEur,     the     Pfere     Procureur, 

484. 
Heddenstrbm,  missionary,  98. 
Heroes,  various  kinds  of,  385. 


Hindi,  the  rendezvous  at,  51;   start 

from,  59. 
Hippopotamus  shooting,  203. 
Hirth,  Monseigneur,  welcome  by,  482. 
Hofmann  Falls,  the,  159. 
Hostage,  Sultan  as  a,  115. 
Hostility,  tokens  of,  176. 
Human  life,  cheap  estimate  of,  358. 
Hussein,  his  idea  of  justice,  119. 
Hussein,  the  expert  cook,  459. 
Hussein  Fara's  comparisons,  181. 
Hussein  Sheriff,  conversation  with,  73. 


Idyar  el  Wali's  account  of  the  Nile,, 

425. 
Industry,  a  prosperous  region  of,  480. 
Ingenuity,  mechanical,  developed,  386. 
Insolence,  a  decided  check  to,  523. 
Instructing  the  Somalis,  76. 
Insurrectionary  districts  to  be  avoided,. 

19. 
Intertropical  starlight,  137. 
Intei-vention,  importance  of,  273. 
Iramba,  people  of,  508  ;  plateau,  511. 
Ischioragama,  encampment  at,  373. 


J. 


Jack,  Mr.,  proceedings  of,  318. 

Jibije,  164. 

"  Junker "    Range,    march    through 

the,  334. 
Justice,  to   be   shown  and  enforced, 

193. 


K. 

Kabaragas,  exciting  news  in,  516. 
Kabaras,  fortunate  route  to,  296. 
Kabila,  encampment  at,  496. 


INDEX. 


591 


Kamanyiro  Kanta,  355 ;  career  of, 
356 ;  his  one-eyed  men,  364  ;  de- 
claration of  understanding  with, 
370,  371  ;  diplomacy  of,  373  ;  sum- 
mary dismissal  of,  374  ;  his  appre- 
hensions, 375  ;  joins  procession,  376. 

Kamasia  Plateau,  climbing  to  the, 
278. 

Kampi,  arrival  at,  535. 

Karema  chosen  king,  314  ;  defiance 
to,  435. 

Karl  Alexander  Fall,  205. 

Katikiro,  visit  of  the,  383  ;  refusal  of, 
to  sign  the  Uganda  treaty,  390; 
rush  to  house  of,  396  ;  sentiments 
of,  429 ;  intrigues,  433. 

Katonga,  sailing  by  mouth  of  the, 
451. 

Kawirondo,  report  on,  283 ;  people 
of,  297. 

Keletesa,  cordial  behaviour  of,  503. 

Kenia  Mountain,  the,  210 ;  Peak, 
219. 

Kidori  on  the  Tana,  116. 

Kikuyu,  stay  at,  213  ;  mode  of  killing 
cattle,  252. 

Kilima  Tindi  Eidge,  520. 

Kiloluma  river,  erroneous  theory  of, 
181. 

Kina  Kombe,  arrival  at.  111. 

Kirobani,  the  guide,  286,  287. 

KiswahiU  and  Kisogo  languages,  322. 

Kiwewa,  the  rule  of,  313. 

Kome,  arrival  at,  473. 

Konse,  solemn  entry  into,  212. 

Kraal,  burning  of  a,  239. 

Kraals,  fortified,  230. 

Krapf  country,  203  ;  Hill,  207. 

Krapf's  conjectures  concerning  the 
Tana,  162. 

Krupp  Movintain,  185. 

"  Kupanda  Sharo  "  feeling,  188;  ac- 
quaintance declined,  534. 

Kwaihu  Peak  and  Island,  38  ;  Bay, 
arrival  at,  39. 


Kwam  Yagallo,  arrival  at,  534. 

Kwa  Sakwa,  303. 

Sundu,  advance  to,  311. 

Telessa,  march  to,  335 ;  de- 
scription of,  336. 

Tindi,    particulars    concerning,^ 

333. 

Tunga,  march  to,  335. 


L. 


Lake  Victoria,  fish  in,  445 ;  after 
a  storm,  448 ;  under  a  new  as- 
pect, 449 ;  flat  shores  of,  458 ; 
view  of,  470;  volcanic  region  of, 
471. 

Landmark,  a  useful,  292. 

Languages,  comparison  of,  416. 

Leikipia,  elevated  plateau,  163,  219. 

Letter-carrying,  dangers  of,  457. 

Letters. — To  a  possible  Eiu-opean, 
297;  of  P6re  Lourdel,  319;  of  Dr. 
Peters,  340  ;  of  Pfere  Denoit,  345  ; 
to  Monseigneur  L6on  Livinhac, 
346 ;  for  the  English  expedition, 
359  ;  from  King  Muanga,  369  ;  of 
Dr.  Peters  to  Mr.  Gordon,  374; 
answer,  377 ;  to  King  Muanga, 
392  ;  to  M.  Lourdel,  396  ;  to  Herr 
Arendt,  398  ;  Mr.  Jackson's,  431 ; 
Muanga's  imploring,  434;  Gabriel's,. 
436 ;  the  Katikiro's,  and  Dr. 
Peters's  reply,  449  ;  P6re  Lourdel's, 
463 ;  Monseigneur  Livinhao's,  464 ; 
from  Dr.  Peters  to  executive  com- 
mittee of  German  Emin  Pasha 
committee,  566 ;  to  Captain  Car- 
dale,  etc.,  573. 

Lindi  Mountains,  circuit  round,  532. 

Lion  hunting,  an  attempt  at,  491. 

Livinhac,  Monseigneur,  401 ;  opinions 
of,  405 ;  mentioned,  452 ;  inten- 
tions of,  455  ;  waiting  for,  490. 

Loanga,  stay  at,  552. 


592 


INDEX. 


Lourdel,  Father,  379  ;  his  ideas,  381  ; 
his  quarters,  387  ;  about  Stanley 
and  Emin,  440  ;  energetic  measures 
of,  443 ;  fatal  consequences  of 
wet  to,  444  ;  parting  with  Peters, 
445. 


M. 

Mackay,  Mr.,  despatch,  313  ;  opinion 
of,  315;  his  influence,  453. 

Mackinnon,  Sir  William's,  bold  plan, 
441. 

Magic  ceremonial,  216. 

Maize  fields,  tribute  from,  110. 

Makenge  and  Stanley,  522  ;  his  mes- 
senger rebuked,  525  ;  submission 
of,  530  ;  sends  tribute,  531. 

Malalulu,  German  flag  hoisted  at, 
113. 

Mandutto,  water  found  by,  262  ; 
departure  of,  513. 

Mansamarabu,  camp  at,  63. 

Maps  and  ancient  charts,  420,  421. 

Marawa,  passage  of  the,  211. 

March,  a  weary,  119;  triumphal,  to 
Oda  -  Boru  -  Ruva,  123  ;  through 
mountain  regions,  191  ;  of  Decem- 
ber 24th,  244 ;  by  the  Guaso 
Narok,  259  ;  through  the  Junker 
Range,  334 ;  to  Kwa  Telessa,  335  ; 
towards  the  west,  340  ;  dietary  on, 
442  ;  a  gloomy,  376  ;  a  morning's, 
497  ;  through  the  wilderness,  506  ; 
towards  the  east,  523 ;  to  Baga- 
moyo,  555. 

Marching,  routine  of,  121. 

Marco,  342,  347. 

Marenga  Mkah  country,  535. 

Marfano,  the  boats  at,  88. 

Marka,  25. 

Marongo  submits  to  his  fate,  187 ; 
securely  guarded,  192  ;  a  gentleman 
at  large,  212. 


Marthe,  the,  arms  shipped  on  board, 
21. 

Massa,  arrival  at,  114. 

Massacre,  danger  of,  432. 

Massai  herds,  229  ;  hostile  appear- 
ance of,  253 ;  real  condition  of 
country,  476. 

Massailands,  guide  to  the,  217. 

Massais,  the,  management  of,  222  ; 
character  of,  224 ;  equipment  and 
marriage,  227 ;  systematic  speech 
to  the,  233 ;  preparations  to  fight 
them,  235  ;  routed,  241 ;  re-appear- 
ance of,  248  ;  peace  proposal  from, 
249 ;  excluded  from  camp,  251  ; 
fear  of,  300. 

Mbaja,  44. 

Mbe  people,  communication  with  the, 
191. 

Mboni,  native  of,  117. 

Mbuji,  crossing  the  Tana  at,  108. 

Mengo,  royal  tombs  at,  422. 

Mfoh,  arrival  at,  427. 

Mgine,  landing  at,  50. 

Miau,  the  captured,  94. 

Miaus,  and  grain,  failure  of  contract 
for,  88  ;  a  supply  of,  110. 

Mission,  Catholic,  thoroughness  of, 
385. 

station,  Nyagesi,  474,  484. 

Missionaries,  Mr.  Stanley's  opinion 
of,  317. 

Missionary,  an  English,  543. 

Mitole,  dangers  at,  99  ;  complaints  of 
elders,  102. 

Mkondogna,  Arabs  of,  552. 

Monsoon,  the,  89. 

Mountain  ranges,  discovery  of,  146 ; 
region  a,  218. 

Mountains  of  the  Moon,  419  ;  the 
Emperor  William  II.,  161. 

Mpuapua,  536  ;  station  of,  539. 

Mrogro,  short  hoUday  at,  554. 

Msanga,  an  early  start  for,  533. 

Muanga,  son  of  Mtesa,  313  ;  at  the 


INDEX. 


593 


Sesse  Islands,  314  ;  position  of,  315 ; 
victory  of,  318 ;  his  message  to 
Europe,  and  civility,  433  ;  proposal 
to  write  to,  344  ;  and  the  English, 
347 ;  his  uncle,  355 ;  letter  from, 
369  ;  message  to,  377 ;  audiences 
of,  379,  384 ;  friendUness  of,  380 ; 
palace  of,  387  ;  private  interview 
with,  388;  desire  concerning  slavery, 
402 ;  dispute  with  the  Katikiro, 
432  ;  plain  speech  of,  394. 

Muina,  difficult  march  to,  104 ;  de- 
parture by  the  boats  from,  106. 

Musa  devoured  by  a  crocodile,  490. 


N. 


Napoleon  Gulf,  the,  350. 

Nature,  grand  solitude  of,  291. 

Nderani,  fortified  camp  at,  109. 

Ndinga,  494. 

Neoera,  the,  chartered  at  heavy  cost, 
28  ;  arrival  at  Zanzibar,  29  ;  run- 
ning out  from  Dar-es-Salam,  34 ; 
brought  to  book,  51 ;  lawsuit,  55, 
574. 

Negroes,  severity  necessary  with, 
192. 

Nera  k)untry,  498. 

Ngao,  seeking  for,  82 ;  German  mis- 
sionary station,  83 ;  march  from, 
87. 

Nile,  the,  questions  concerning,  336  ; 
Emin's  position  on  Upper,  344 ; 
arrival  at,  365  ;  passage  across,  366. 

Njemps,  start  for,  263 ;  arrival  at, 
268. 

Nocturnal  festival,  115.' 

Nogola,  misbehaviour  and  punish- 
ment of,  171. 

Nomadic  herdsmen,  social  status  of, 
224 ;  propensities  and  deportment 
of,  225. 

Nugula,  arrival  of — report,  441,  442. 


O. 


Oda-Boru-Ruva,  triiunphal  march  to, 
123;  with  the  Gallas  in,  124; 
communication  with,  273. 

Omar  Idle's  exploit,  195. 

One-eyed  men,  Kamanyiro's,  364. 

Optical  delusion,  a  strange,  200. 


Papyrus  swamps,  259. 

Parisa's  neglect,  169. 

Path,  a  difficult,  264. 

Peace,  proposals  of,  from  Massais, 
249. 

Pemba  Motu,  279. 

Pembomoto's  quarrel  with  Hamiri, 
118. 

Peters,  Dr.,  appointed  commander  in 
the  Emin  Pasha  Expedition,  8 ;  his 
opinion  of  route,  13  ;  expedition  to 
start  under,  17 ;  illness  of,  89 ; 
proposed  route  of,  148;  speech  to 
the  Wandorobbo,  167  ;  account  of 
himself,  283;  proposal  of,  338; 
experimental  letter  of,  340;  pro- 
posal to  visit  Unjoro,  343 ;  further 
intentions  of,  349  ; ,  definite  in- 
structions of,  371 ;  reply  to  Ka- 
manyiro,  373;  advice  to  Muanga, 
381;  letter  to  Muanga,  393;  pro- 
poses to  fight  Kimbulu,  395  ;  reply 
to  Muanga's  declaration,  432  ;  will 
attack  Karema,  435;  incredulity 
of,  440;  attacked  by  fever,  492; 
parting  of,  from  Emin  Pasha,  551 ; 
return  to  Europe,  559. 

Plenty,  a  region  of,  342. 

Philological  studies,  96. 

Poisoned  arrows,  attack  with,  172. 

Political  missionary  interference,  317. 

Porters,  disregard  of  apphcation  to 
hire,  27  ;  unruliness  of,  61  ;  rewards 
38 


594 


INDEX. 


and  pvinishments  of,  62 ;  import- 
ance of,  86  ;  exciting  news  concern- 
ing, 105;  poor  Amdalla,  210; 
cheating,  216;  desertion  of,  260; 
from  the  English   expedition,  303. 

Poscho,  distribution  of,  488. 

Potentate,  a  jovial,  354. 

Purchasing  supplies,  271. 

Q. 

Quarrel  of  Pembomoto  and  Hamiri, 

118. 
Question  of  ways  and  means,  270  ;  of 

reprisals,  279. 


R. 


Eainy  season,  the,  58 ;  and  sickness, 

89  ;  stormy  indications  of,  179. 
Ratification  by  spitting,  174. 
Rebellion  raised  by  Muanga,  314. 
"  Red  letter  day,"  a,  202. 
Reichardt's  opinion,  221. 
Reports,  missing,  146. 
Resolution  for  unity  of  command,  15. 
Rhinoceros  hunting,  204. 
Ripon  Falls,  366,  367. 
Routes,  Thomson's,  unadvisable,  in  dry 

season,  260;  northern  and  southern, 

551. 
Rukua,  first  servant  to  Dr.  Peters,  80  ; 

as  interpreter,  232  ;  fatal  accident 

to,  368  ;  death  and  burial,  369. 
Rumours,  disquieting,  340. 
Rust,   Lieut.-Capt.,    20 ;  instructions 

for,  148  ;  measures  to  be  taken  by, 

149. 
Rust's  column,  waiting  for,  146. 


Sakwa,   Sultan,  possessions  of,  302  ; 
politeness  of,  308;  treaty  with,  310. 


Sango  and  the  fleet,  460. 

Sanguke  river,  the,  505. 

Schopenhauer's  philosophy,  250. 

Schweinfurth,  Professor,  first  ideas  of 
expedition,  2. 

"  Schweinfurth  Fall,"  207. 

Sesse  Islands,  the  outline  of,  446 ; 
starting  afresh  for,  450 ;  beautiful 
landscape  of,  451. 

Settlement,  new,  the  Von  der  Heydt 
House,  138. 

Severity  necessary  with  negroes, 
192. 

"  Shauri  "  with  porters,  85. 

Shimbye,  landing  in,  43  ;  passage  to, 
44 ;  doings  at,  47. 

Short  allowance,  94. 

Siyu,  recruiting  at,  39. 

Siyu  Canal,  a  new  plan,  42. 

Somali  Achmed,  death  of,  285. 

Somalis,  the  character  of,  58  ;  friend- 
ly demonstrations  of,  72  ;  untrust- 
worthy messengers,  94  ;  the  hostile, 
143  ;  excited,  prospects  of  plunder, 
175;  and  "strayed"  cattle,  177; 
the  discouraged,  254. 

Soswa,  course  towards,  470  ;  islands, 
471. 

Spitting,  ratification  by,  174. 

Sport  and  culinary  science,  206. 

Stanley,  H.  M.,  departure  of,  for 
Africa,  2  ;  camp  of,  344 ;  his  re- 
fusal to  march  to  Uganda,  345  ; 
report  from,  360 ;  and  the  Moun- 
tains of  the  Moon,  419  ;  achieve- 
ments of,  479  ;  and  Makenge,  522  ; 
carries  off"  Emin,  criticism  of  pro- 
ceedings, 543  ;  discrepancy  between 
his  accounts  and  Emin  Pasha's, 
545 ;  Emin's  estimate  of,  and 
opinion  of  Dr.  Peters,  546 ;  inde- 
cision, 547. 

Stephano,  serious  advice  to,  455. 

Steppe,  the,  animal  life  and  climate 
of,   101;    marching  through,  120; 


INDEX. 


595 


its  plants  and  animals,  etc.,  209  ; 
difficult  march  across,  257. 

Stokes,  Mr.,  enterprise  of,  315;  his 
establishment  in  Ukumbi,  487 ; 
business  activity  of,  500. 

Stuhlmann,  Dr.,  meeting  with,  537. 

Suaheli   the,  of  the  Tana,  126. 

Subakini,  English  station  at,  112. 

Suffering,  remembrances  of,  99. 

Sultana,  the  unladylike,  512. 

Sultanas  of  Wachore,  354. 

Sultans : — Hugo,  of  Gallas,  125, 
negotiations  with,  129,  his  conces- 
sions, 131,  great  consviltation  with, 
133,  remonstrance  of,  139  ;  Sadeh, 
144  ;  Gollo,  144  ;  Sakwa,  of  Kawi- 
rondo,  messages  from,  301,  proposal 
of,  307  ;  of  Kwa  Sundu,  visit  from, 
312  ;  Telessa,  visit  of,  336,  second 
interview  with,  338,  his  messen- 
gers, 339  ;  Wachore,  power  of,  353  ; 
Kilioma,  address  to,  509  ;  a  seH- 
iadulgent,  511;  Wagogo  sues  for 
peace,  526. 

Sunstroke,  symptoms  of,  530. 

Supper,  a  comfortable,  256. 

Swamp,  a  difficu.lt  and  dangerous, 
506,  507. 


T. 


TabaUro,  departure  from,  466. 

Tabora,  occupation  of,  advised,  541. 

Talabanga,  342. 

Tana,  proposed  route  by,  to  Equa- 
torial Province,  13  ;  arrival  at,  83  ; 
on  the  banks  of,  93 ;  scenery  of  the, 
100  ;  exhilarating  climate  of,  101 ; 
crossing  at  Mbuji,  108 ;  lowest 
middle  course  of,  114,  129;  fire 
signal  at,  120 ;  landscape  near  Oda- 
Boru-Ruva,  129;  how  to  get  to  it, 
142  ;  settlement  on,  157  ;  mountain 
chains  of,   161 ;  question  of  fords, 


178;  great  cataract  of,  181; 
abortive  attempts  to  cross,  198; 
sinking,  196 ;  how  to  build  a 
bridge  across,  197;  rising,  198; 
difficult  again,  205  ;  tributaries  of 
the,  207 ;  difficulty  of,  overcome, 
209. 

Teleki  Eock,  the,  252. 

Tell,  death  of,  205. 

Tempests,  tropical,  414. 

Thomson,  effect  of  his  treatment  of 
Massais,  222 ;  "  Among  the  Mas- 
sai,"  299. 

Thoughts  in  the  solitude  of  nature, 
507. 

Thunderstorms,  291,  448. 

Tiedemann,  Herr  von,  21 ;  illness  of, 
187,  257,  271,  493,  505,  514,  552  ; 
position  of,  176;  in  peril,  238  ;  joy- 
ful meeting  with,  256 ;  grave 
condition  of,  261 ;  departure  of,  to 
Lake  Victoria,  401 ;  meeting  of 
Peters  with,  451  ;  ill  again,  554 ; 
return  to  Europe,  559. 

Tiedemann  Hill,  160. 

Tippoo  Tib,  Stanley's  relation  with, 
546. 

Tombs  at  Mengo,  422,  423. 

Traces  of  travellers,  209. 

Trade,  egotistical  ideas  of,  184;  with 
Wakikuyu,  215;  important,  390, 
391  ;  routes  of  caravan,  opening  a 
direct,  501. 

Treaty  between  Dr.  Peters  and  Sul- 
tan Sadeh,  135,  145;  of  peace, 
251  ;  signing  the  Uganda,  390 ; 
assembly  concerning,  393  ;  articles 
of  the  Uganda,  389  ;  the  Uganda, 
585. 

Tribute,  payment  of,  a  mistake,  498  ; 
disagreeable  question  of,  522;  re- 
newed demand  of,  524 ;  Makenge's, 
531. 

Tropical  storm,  a,  221. 


596 


INDEX. 


TJ. 

Uganda,  chances  of  an  attempt  on, 
316  ;  up  to,  362  ;  journey  towards, 
363 ;  first  encampment  in,  367  ; 
through  desert,  371  ;  treaty,  389, 
585  ;  important  trade  of,  390;  and 
slave  trade,  402 ;  cruelty  of  the 
people,  climatic  advantages  of, 
414;  diiSculties  in,  429  ;  a  lady  in, 
430. 

TJgogo,  district  of,  517. 

Unjoro,  343. 

Ukamba  Kifcui,  steppe  of,  207. 

Ukumbi,  473  ;  removal  to,  481  ;  road 
through,  484 ;  Mr.  Stokes's  esta- 
blishment in,  487;  order  of  day 
in,  488  ;  start  from,  494. 

Ukumbi  fever,  502. 

Usagara,  arrival  at,  551. 

Usoga,  pleasant  life  in,  348  ;  scenery 
of,  349. 

Usukuma,  important  trade  with,  391 ; 
dry  season  in,  485  ;  general  aspect 
of,  486  ;  a  dandy  of,  502. 

Usure,  settlement  of,  510 ;  impor- 
tance of,  513;  departure  from, 
514. 

Uweri-weri,  515. 


Victoria,  Lake,  fish  in,  445  ;  under 
a  new  aspect,  449  ;  flat  shores  of, 
458  ;  view  of,  470 ;  volcanic  region 
of,  471. 

Visit  to  Wachore,  357. 

Visitor,  a  mysterious,  341. 

Volcanic  region,  265  ;  formation, 
334. 

Voltaire,  our  Kikuyu,  251. 

Von  der  Heydt  House,  138  ;  Islands, 
157. 


W. 

Wachore,  friendly  relations  with,  353  ; 
visit  of,  355. 

Wadelai,  1,  3. 

Wadsagga  tribe,  the,  182;  haughti- 
ness of,  183 ;  insolence  of,  185 ; 
retribution  on,  189. 

Waelgejo,  quarrel  with  the,  288. 

Waganda,  the,  report  on,  308  ;  Chris- 
tian welcome  from,  365  ;  boats  of, 
366  ;  great  abilities  of,  407  ;  drum, 
409  ;  musical  proclivities  and  archi- 
tecture of,  411 ;  origin  of,  415. 

Wagandaland,  life  easy  in,  408. 

Wagogo,  a  lesson  to  the,  523  ;  war 
with,  525 ;  burning  of  villages, 
527 ;  cattle  seized,.  528,  529 ; 
threatening,  530. 

Wairamba,  peaceable  conduct  of  the, 
510. 

Waiting,  weeks  of  dreary,  90.    ■ 

Wakamasia,  the,  and  Pemba  Motu, 
279;  the  friendly,  280;  demand 
tribute,  281. 

Wakamba,  warriors,  167 ;  securing 
them,  182  ;  advice  of,  194. 

Wakawirondo,  298,  299. 

Wakikuyu  men  in  the  camp,  210  ; 
characters  of  the,  214 ;  hut  of, 
215  ;  trade  with,  215. 

Wakuafi,  the,  or  dealers,  treaty  with, 
272,  274. 

Walker,  Mr.,  visit  of,  436. 

''  Walpurgis  Night ''  watch,  492. 

Wami,  crossing  the,  500. 

Wandorobbo  tribe,  the,  165;  embassy 
to  the,  167  ;  insolence  of  ambas- 
sadors, 168;  negotiations  a  bad 
bargain,  170;  insolence,  171; 
threatened  attack  by,  173 ;  delays 
and  evasions,  174;  talk  with  the, 
263. 
Wanga,  visit  to,  48. 

Wangwana  guides,  494. 


INDEX. 


597 


Wanjamwesi,    arrival    of   the,    528, 

529  ;  caravan,  531. 
Wanjoro,  white  men  in,  337,  338. 

Want,  terrible  suffering  from,  122. 

Wapokomo,  camping-place,  82 ;  part- 
ing from  the,  100,  126;  charac- 
teristics of  the,  112  ;  cheerful  dance 
of,  114. 

Warriors,  defiance  of  Galla,  141  ; 
Wakamba,  167  ;  first  meeting  with 
Massais,  229,  253. 

Wasekke,  tactics  of  the,  499  ;  pru- 
dence of,  500. 

Wasiba,  the,  warning  to,  and  reply, 
462. 

Wasoga,  the,  report  on,  308;  men, 
the,  conversation  with,  321 ;  ap- 
pearance, costume,  and  weapons  of, 
352;  dwellings,  353. 

Wasukuma,   good    qualities   of    the, 
'  486;     protection     to     the,     488; 
probable     future     importance    of, 
495. 

Water,  scarcity  of,  36. 

Water  supply,  important  question  of, 
220 ;  anxiety  concerning,  248 ; 
seeking  for,  261. 

Weapons,  confiscation  of,  28. 

Wembaere,  crossing  the,  505  ;  Steppe, 
506. 

White  race,  historic  tradition  of  a, 
427. 


Widow  of  Mtesa,  her  heathen  officials 
dismissed,  404 ;  ignorance  of,  406. 

Wild  cattle,  enormous  herds  of,  294. 

Wissmann,  Lieutenant  von,  co-opera- 
tion with,  proposed,  6 ;  arrange- 
ments with  Peters,  8. 

Witu,  safe  arrival  in  sultanate  of, 
45  ;  on  the  march  to,  65  ;  import- 
ance of,  66 ;  statistics  of  the 
sultanate,  67  ;  stay  at,  70 ;  supplies 
from,  93  ;  no  hope  from,  98. 

Women,  Wandorobbo,  166;  footsteps 
of,  166. 

Women  and  children,  decision  con- 
cerning, 155. 

Wiirz,  missionary,  86. 


Year,  beginning  a  new,  262. 
Yembamba,  narrative  of,  156. 


Zanzibar,  2 ;  Sultan  of,  23,  27 ;  diffi- 
culties and  troubles  at,  23,  26 ; 
caravans,  curious  behaviour  of, 
284  ;  crossing  to,  558  ;  old  quarters 
in,  559. 

Zoology,  lion  and  hippopotamus,  180  ; 
lions  in  the  bush,  203. 


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